Spectacular Slovakia - Northern Slovakia 1

Bojnice Castle The annual coronation ceremony Hronsek Štiavnické vrchy Banská Bystrica How to use this guide 2 Seven day itinerary 4 Slovakia’sTOP 10 5 History 6 Changing Slovakia 12 Personalities 16 UNESCO 20 Sight by sight Bratislava 26 Bratislava Region 45 Western Slovakia 60 Central Slovakia 96 Northern Slovakia 118 Eastern Slovakia 166 Feature section Castles 200 Slovak art 204 Folklore 209 Gothic architecture 212 Religion 214 Wooden churches 216 Jewish heritage 220 Spas 223 Wine 228 Beer & Spirits 232 Food 234 Agritourism 238 Animal watching 240 Horses 242 Cycling 245 Rafting 249 Hiking 252 Caves 256 Skiing 259 Aqua 262 Best deals 265 Extreme - heights 268 Speed, army 270 Out of the city 272 Luxury 274 Golf 276 Genealogy 280 War 282 Mines, technical monuments 285 Industrial tours 288 Economy 290 Basics for tourists Language (inside front cover) Souvenirs 294 Events 294 Travellers’ needs 300 Restaurants 302 Index (inside back cover) Pull-out map (inside back cover) CONTENTS

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Live your own story of Slovakia Top Slovak sights 32 travel feature stories Pull-out map of Slovakia Suggested seven day itinerary Information and contact details for more than 450 tourist spots Drawings of 28 historical monuments 3D aerial drawings of 7 major city centres 17 maps of city centres and major mountains More than 1,000 photos Calendar of events Selection of top hotels and restaurants ISBN 978-80-971719-0-2 The Slovak Spectator Slovak news you can trust since 1995 sPecTAcULAR sLOVAKiA

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29 Chopok (hiking, ski) pg 144-145, 260-261, 266, 252 30 Demänovská jaskyňa slobody W (cave) pg 145, 256 31 Demänovská ľadová jaskyňa (ice cave) pg 145-146, 256 32 Svätý Kríž (wooden church) pg 146 33 Liptovská Mara (recreation area) pg 146-147, 263, 288 34 Havránok (open-air museum) pg 147 35 Kvačianska dolina (hiking) pg 252 36 Lúčky (spa) pg 225 37 Bešeňová (aqua) pg 147 38 Kozí vŕšok (food) pg 147, 239, 267 39 Likava (castle - ruins) pg 149 40 Ružomberok (city) pg 149-151, 239, 244, 247, 268, 289 41 Vlkolínec W (traditional village - UNESCO site) pg 150, 21, 22 42 Malinô Brdo (ski, hiking) pg 151, 260 43 Salaš Krajinka (food) pg 151, 239 44 Leštiny (wooden church - UNESCO site) pg 152 45 Dolný Kubín (city) pg 152, 239 46 Lučivná (ski) pg 259 47 Zázrivá (food) pg 239 48 Kubínska hoľa (hiking, ski) pg 152 49 Oravský Podzámok W (castle, rafts) pg 152-154, 265 50 Sedliacka Dubová (monastery - ruins) pg 272-273 51 Podbiel (extreme, folklore) pg 211, 270, 52 Zuberec (traditional village) pg 154, 216, 246, 265, 271 53 Roháče W (hiking, ski) pg 254-255 54 Zverovka - Spálená (ski) pg 259 55 Oravice (hiking, ski, aqua) pg 154, 260, 265 56 Trstená (city) pg 154 57 Tvrdošín (wooden church - UNESCO site) pg 155, 216, 269 58 Oravská priehrada (recreation area) pg 155, 263, 206, 207, 288 59 Klin (statue) pg 155 60 Oravská Lesná (railway, dogsled) pg 155, 266 61 Vychylovka (museum, railway) pg 156, 286 62 Veľká Rača (ski) pg 156, 260 63 Stará Bystrica (clock) pg 156 64 Terchová (town, folklore) pg 156-157 65 Vrátna (hiking, ski) pg 157, 252 66 Malá Fatra (hiking) pg 157, 240 67 Strečno W (castle - ruins, rafts) pg 157-158 68 Súľov (hiking, castle - ruins) pg 158, 253 69 Bytča (manor house) pg 158, 280 70 Žilina W (city, castle) pg 159-161, 207, 222, 267, 269, 271, 289 71 Lietava (castle - ruins) pg 161-162, 272-273 72 Rajecké Teplice W (spa) pg 162, 224, 225, 246 73 Rajec (town, aqua) pg 162, 276-277 74 Golf Park Rajec (golf) pg 162 75 Rajecká Lesná (nativity scene) pg 162-164 76 Čičmany W (traditional village) pg 164, 209 77 Valčianska dolina (ski, golf) pg 260, 246, 277 78 Martinské hole (ski) pg 261 79 Martin (city, open-air museum) pg 164-165, 207, 269 80 Sklabinský Podzámok (castle - ruins) pg 165, 272-273 81 Turčianske Teplice (spa, aqua) pg 225 82 Veľká Fatra (hiking, ski) pg 254, 240  page 164  pages 140-141  pages 152-154  page 123  pages 134-135  pages 130-133  page 145  pages 120-122, 144-145 Photo:AmandaRivkin Photo:LukášVaršíkPhoto:MichalRengevič Photo:AmandaRivkin 22 23 2425 26 27 28 33 29 30 31 T T2 T1 T3 T5 T7 T8 T6 T4 1 2 34 5 6 7 9 8 10 11 12 13 15 14 16 17 52 53 54 55 56 18 1920 21 introduction to northern slovakia 119

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120 northern slovakia - the high tatras T VysokéTaTry W (the HighTatras) map F 2, 3  14 km / 8.7 miles (16 min) NW of Poprad  4,250  Starý Smokovec 23 (in the building of the Mountain Rescue Service) +421 (0)52 442-3440 www.tatryinfo.eu    February: Tatry Ice Master; May/June: Children’s Day and Nightrun (Štrbské Pleso); June: Summer season opening; July/August: Days of Bears The HighTatras are undoubtedly the pearl of Slovak tourism. It is the amazing diversity of other natural phenomena, and such a high concentration of leisure pursuits in such a relatively small place, that makes the area so special. It doesn’t matter if you want to go skiing in Snow Park near the Štrbské pleso lake, admire the view from Lomnický štít or relax in the thermal swimming pools of AquaCity in Poprad, you can get to where you want within an hour. There are good public transport options as well. The tourist season lasts for 12 months. A place best visited with skis in winter is good for hiking or cycling in summer. The scenery, including 29 peaks that rise up more than 2,500 metres, is spectacular. If you travel around this part of theTatras (including on the lift and cable cars) you will see several large bare spaces. These are the result of a devastating windstorm which swept through the region on November 19, 2004 and toppled a large portion of the forests which until then had covered the lower slopes. It could be said that this caused something of a national trauma at the time because Slovaks are very attached to their mountains – Kriváň, another HighTatras peak, was one of the three images they chose to adorn their euro coins. T1 kriVáň (peak) map F 2  7 km / 4.3 miles (7 hours) NW of Štrbské Pleso, the altitude difference 1,140 metres, medium trekking, another trek available from Podbanské www.vt.sk Kriváň is one of the most popular peaks in Slovakia with an elevation of 2,494 metres located in the western part of the HighTatras. It owes its name to the crooked shape of its peak. There are two starting points for the climb: Štrbské Pleso (from the Solisko sanatorium) and Tri studničky, a part of the way between Podbanské and Štrbské Pleso. The climb takes between four and five hours. T2 ŠTrbské Pleso map F 3  32 km / 20 miles (30 min) NW of Poprad  TIK Štrbské Pleso, opposite the Hotel FIS (at the street K Vodopádom), directly under the ski-jumps +421 (0)52 449-2391 www.tatry.sk   Boating  Štrbské pleso (lake) Mole is located close to the Kempinski Hotel +421 (0)903 409-189  Mon-Sun 9:00-17:00 depending on weather from €15 Cableway Štrbské Pleso-Solisko  K Vodopádom, Štrbské Pleso opposite the Hotel FIS (directly under the ski-jumps) +421 (0)917 682-260 www.vt.sk  8:30-15:30  8:30-18:00 low season check websitefrom €8 Mini Tatralandia Park (park for kids)  K Vodopádom, Štrbské Pleso opposite the Hotel FIS (directly under the ski-jumps) TaTry (theTatras) TheTatras are impressive mountains situated along the Polish border in northern Slovakia. It is the tallest mountain range in the Carpathian chain as well as in Slovakia with its highest point being Gerlachovský štít (peak). Interspersed among the tall mountains are many rugged ridges marked with vast glaciers that hover above green valleys and swift-running rivers. Roughly three-quarters of these mountains lie in Slovakia. In 1949, theTatra National Park (TANAP) was created as the first Slovak national park. TheTatras are divided into three parts – the Západné (Western), theVysoké (High) and the Belianske (or Eastern)Tatras. In 1993TANAP together with its Polish counterpart was named a UNESCO biosphere reserve. Chamois of the Tatras Kriváň ©KartografieHP Kriváň 2,494 Hrubý vrch 2,428 Satan 2,422 Rysy 2,499 Gerlachovský štít 2,655 Ľadový štít 2,627 Lomnický štít 2,634 Mengusovce Zakopane Západné Tatry T1 T4 T6 T7 T8 T5 T2 T3 Vysoké Tatry Belianske Tatry

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northern slovakia - the high tatras 121  Mon-Sun 9:30-15:30 from €1.5 Squirrel adrenaline park  Športová, Štrbské Pleso (opposite the Hotel Crocus) +421 (0)915 497-160 www.vevericipark.sk  Sat-Sun 9:00-19:00; Jul-Aug: Mon-Sun 9:00-19:00 €10 Bungee Jumping Ski-jumpK-120ŠtrbskéPleso+421(0)903904- 224 www.bungee.skJun-Oct12:Sat-Sun10:00-15:30,for morethan10peopleothertimespossible€30 Ski resort Štrbské Pleso altitude: 1,386-1,814 m / 4,547-5,951 ft;  K Vodopádom, Štrbské Pleso opposite the Hotel FIS (directly under the ski-jumps) +421 (0)917 682-260 www.vt.sk  Mon-Sun 8:30-15:30from €15  WC; cable cars: 3; ski-lifts: 5; ski slopes: 9 km / 5.6 miles; Maxiland park fork children; ice skating Štrbské Pleso, which refers to the nearby glacial lake, is part of the Štrba village. It has been a favoured holiday destination for decades for a range of tourists, including families with children, nature-lovers and thrill-seekers. Štrbské Pleso offers a wealth of hiking trails, ski runs and other attractions. Quality accommodations are available as well as fine dining, often offered in settings with unforgettable views. Convenient rail and road connections to surrounding towns are also available. One of the most popular summer attractions is boating on the Štrbské pleso lake. Since the lake is frozen for almost half the year, it becomes a very popular spot in the summer. Another favourite activity is bungee-jumping. Štrbské pleso is also a great spot for hiking. Visitors can walk through scenic valleys, such as Mengusovská dolina valley, where the Popradské Pleso Chalet is located on the banks of Popradské pleso lake. Hiking enthusiasts can visit theTatra valleys, which are sometimes covered with ice and snow even in the summer. During the winter season, which usually lasts from December to April, skiers can enjoy nine kilometres of well-maintained slopes (easy to medium difficulty) and a 26.5 km cross-country track. Snowboarding is available at the snowpark. T3 MengusoVce (skijöring)  page 270 T4 gerlachoVský ŠTíT (peak) mapF27km/4.3miles(8-10hours)Nof TatranskáPolianka,thealtitudedifference1,650 m,demandingtrekkingwithmountainguideonly www.slovakmountainguide.sk+421 (0)902552-688www.tatraguide.sk+421 (0)905428-170 Situated in the western part of the HighTatras, Gerlachovský štít peak is the highest peak in Slovakia, with an elevation of 2,655 metres. The climb to the peak is permitted only with a certified mountain guide. It takes 8-10 hours and requires that one be in good physical condition. The starting point is the Sliezsky Dom Mountain Hotel and the most popular route is via Velická próba passage. T5 sTarý sMokoVec map F 2  14 km / 8.7 miles (16 min) NW of Poprad  Starý Smokovec 23 (in the building of the Mountain Rescue Service) +421 (0)52 442-3440 www.tatryinfo.eu   Cableway Starý Smokovec-Hrebienok  Opposite the Grandhotel Starý Smokovec +421 (0)903 112-200 www.vt.sk  Jun-Aug: Mon-Sun 7:30-19-00; Sep-May: Mon-Sun 7:30-16:30 (ride every hour) from €6 Trampolína (Trampoline)  next to the ground cableway downhill station, Starý Smokovec +421 (0)902 932-657  opened during the weekends 10:00-16:00 depending on weather; Jul-Aug: Mon-Sun 10:00-16:00 €1 Tubbing (toboggan)  next to the cableway uphill station Hrebienok +421 (0)902 932-657  opened during the weekends 10:00-16:00 depending on weather; Jul-Aug: Mon-Sun 10:00-16:00 €1 Sledging from Hrebienok  next to the cableway uphill station Hrebienok  night-sledging every Wed, Fri, Sat 19:00-21:00 from €7 Starý Smokovec is the oldest village in the HighTatras. It was first settled because of its healing mineral springs, but nowadays Starý Smokovec is not only the administrative centre of the Hotel Hills is perfect for families and businesses. The surrounding countryside and amenities offer myriad possibilities for active recreation, as well as a nice way to relax. Conference rooms with modern technical equipment and facilities create an inspirational environment for various corporate events and activities.The facility has been reconstructed and modernised several times over the years. Restaurant: Excellent international cuisine with an exclusive wine list and quality service will satisfy even the most demanding gourmets. n The restaurant has won several awards, not just for its quality of food, but also for the highly professional conduct of the staff. n An important part of the hotel is the degustation bar, offering tastings of whisky, liqueurs, vodka, rum, chocolate and more. Hotel Hills, Stará Lesná 153, 059 60 Tatranská Lomnica, www.hotel-hills.sk * +421(0)52 4467 533 * recepcia@hotel-hills.sk Surrounded by the beautiful nature of the High Tatras in the village of Stara Lesna, the location of Hotel Hills is ideal for those who like to combine their vacation or business meetings with active relaxation in nature. Hotel Hills Gerlachovskýštít SP013303/001

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124 northern slovakia - stará ľubovňa 2 sTará ľuboVňa W map G 2  48 km / 29.8 miles (52 min) NE of Poprad  16,341  Nám. sv. Mikuláša 21, Stará Ľubovňa +421 (0)52 432-1713  July: Castle festival; August: International theatre and film festival - UmUm   www.staralubovna.sk The Spiš town of Stará Ľubovňa lies in the Poprad River basin close to the Polish border. The town was first mentioned in historical records in 1292 and in 1364 it was granted royal free town status by Louis I. The centre of the historical district, the symmetrically rectangular St Nicholas Square, is the centre of action in Stará Ľubovňa. At one end of the pleasant and garden- like square, named for the city’s patron saint, is the Roman Catholic church, the tallest building in the square. Although it was built in 1280, the church houses a well- preserved baroque interior rebuilt from the original gothic interior. Stará Ľubovňa is the only town in Slovakia where tourists can see where all three classes of people lived: the aristocracy in the castle, the middle class in the burgher’s house, and the lower rural class in the skanzen. Back in the day, the most expensive houses sheltering the most prosperous people were built in the town square.Today these beautifully restored burgher houses line the compact town square and create a cozy, small town feel. One recommended visit is to the information centre in the Stará Ľubovňa Burgher’s House that also doubles as a museum focusing on how the middle class lived. The house’s foundation dates from the late 14th century, and the house is chock full of 19th -century furniture and artefacts.Townspeople donated most of the lovingly displayed contents over the years, making this house more of a home. Highlights include minting your own Ľubovňa Gold Ducat, legal tender until the mid- 18th century, and marvelling at the house’s second floor furnishings including the dining room, parlour, workroom, bedroom and kitchen. Hrad(castle) Zámocká22,StaráĽubovňa +421(0)52432-2030 www.muzeumsl.sk May-Sep:Mon-Sun9:00–18:00;Oct,Apr:Tue-Sun 9:00-15:00;Nov-Mar:10:00-14:00 €5   WC While the historic town square portrays the contented middle class life in town, it is the castle, dating from the late 13th century, that presents a picture of aristocratic life. The Ľubovňa Castle was built in 1294 by King Andrew III of Hungary and has lasted for more than seven centuries amid reconstructions, embracing gothic, Renaissance and baroque architectural styles. Its perch on a hill overlooking the many small towns in the area was once a strategic advantage, but it also affords a panoramic view for today’s visitors to enjoy. There is a well-written English brochure and a clearly marked on-your-own tour through the castle and its grounds. The tour takes the Baptismal font Replicas of the Polish crown jewels Photo:courtesyofMuseumStaráĽubovňa

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northern slovakia - stará ľubovňa 125 visitor from the well-fortified entrance through a series of galleries and yards. Visitors experience an on-going upward climb through the parts of the complex devoted to fortifications and defence and on to the areas where the nobles lived and worshipped. Largely intact, the stonework castle walls are impressive and the battlements and embrasures offer spectacular photo ops. The most precious parts of the castle are the gothic tower and the western Renaissance bastion, which is one of the last remaining unaltered bastions of this type in Europe. Thoughtfully designed exhibits include St Michael the Archangel’s Chapel, built in 1647 with three preserved baroque altars, a baptismal font, and the grave of the Hungarian nobleman György Félix Raisz (1825-1880), who rebuilt the severely dilapidated structure after he took ownership from the Polish government. Other highlights include a room displaying personal artefacts, including furniture and clothing of the last owners of the castle, the Polish aristocratic Zamoyski family. This family owned the castle from 1882 to 1945 when the Czechoslovak state took ownership. Look closely for a sign that directs visitors to the room containing replicas of the Polish crown jewels; the real ones were deposited in the castle from 1656 to 1661 by the King John Casimir. The castle has been a museum since 1966. Skanzen (Open-air museum)  Zámocká, Stará Ľubovňa +421 (0)52 432-2422  www.muzeumsl.sk  May-Sep: Mon-Sun 9:00–18:00; Oct, Apr: Tue-Sun 9:00-15:00  €2    WC The transplanted houses in the shadow of the castle comprise the Ľubovňa Open-Air Museum, part of Ľubovnianske múzeum (Ľubovňa’s Museum). This ethnographic museum complex is laid out to resemble a settlement at the foot of the castle and it hosts a mediaeval- style fair during the summer months. In fact, the Ľubovňa Gold Ducat, received at theTourist Bureau in Stará Ľubovňa, is legal tender in this village. The most noteworthy structure is the wooden Greek Catholic church from the Šariš village of Matysová that dates from 1833. In addition to the iconostas from the first half of the 18th century it contains an acclaimed icon of the crucifixion from the 17th century. The church is still in use on religious holidays. Other structures include a granary, houses of farmers, shepherds and peasants, a carpenter’s workshop, a blacksmith’s workshop and a mill. Walking around this skanzen with most of the modest rural houses from the early 20th century, one notices small models outside each structure that resemble mailboxes. A closer examination reveals that these models are accompanied by Braille descriptions, the only such items of this kind in Slovakia. The Braille is in both Slovak and Polish for visually impaired visitors. 3 hniezdne (distillery)  page 233 Photo:courtesyofMuseumStaráĽubovňa

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126 northern slovakia 4 VyŠné ružbachy (gallery)  page 206 5 Podolínec map G 2  31 km / 19.4 miles (36 min) NE of Poprad  3,257 www.podolinec.eu   Kostol Nanebovzatia Panny Márie (Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary)  around Mariánske nám. 1, Podolínec  (church) entrance hall 7:00-18:30; (belfry - exterior views only)  Mon-Fri 17:30 Sat 7:30 Sun 8:00, 9:30 During the 17th century, Podolínec was the most important town in the vicinity of Stará Ľubovňa and then mayor, Stanislav Ľubomirský, established here the Piarists’ Collegium, which earned the town nicknames such as Athens above Poprad or the Spiš Oxford. The town has preserved its original mediaeval layout. A visitor can see a well-preserved fortification wall encircling a very regular rectangular Mariánske Square, hemmed by burgher houses. The castle can only be viewed from outside (it houses the town’s municipal offices) but it is possible to visit the gothic Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary and a Renaissance bell tower next door. This church, dating back to the 13th century, is a mixture of its original gothic architecture that was later extended and now bears Renaissance and baroque architecture as well. The church holds precious mediaeval wall paintings from between 1360 and 1430. The town monastery is still in use, but the monks will open the monastery’s church to visitors prepared to ring the bell and ask them. 6 belianska jaskyňa (cave)  page 256 7 sPiŠská belá map G 2  21 km / 13.1 miles (25 min) NE of Poprad  6,387  Petzvalova 18, Spišská Belá +421 (0)52 468-0517 www.spisskabela.sk   Kaštieľ Strážky (Strážky Chateau)  Mednyánszkeho 25, Spišská Belá – Strážky +421 (0)52 458-1312  www.sng.sk Jun 15-Sep 15: Tue-Sun 10:00-17:00; Sep 16-Jun14: Wed-Sun 10:00-16:00 €2.7   WC Because of the art both inside and outside of the Strážky Chateau, it is fitting that the complex is operated by the Slovak National Gallery. Art defines the experience of touring this Renaissance building and the English-style park surrounding it. Although some of the paintings, objects, and furniture are original to the chateau, much of the contents hail from the collections of the Slovak National Gallery. The ability to view historical portraiture from the 17th to the 19th centuries is a treat, but the main reason to visit this jewel of an art gallery is to commune with the art of László Mednyánszky (1852-1919), who spent part of his childhood there. The village of Strážky and its environs were close to his heart throughout his life. Sculptures by major Slovak 20th century artists are exhibited on the grounds outside. The chateau’s last owner, Baroness Margita Czóbelová, left the property to the state when she died in 1972. Reconstruction began that year and ended in 1991. As the Baroness was Mednyánszky’s niece and an art lover herself, one would like to think she would approve of the intellectual and thoughtful care given to her home and her uncle’s artistic legacy. Kostol sv. Anny a zvonica (Church of St Anne and bell tower)  Mednyánszkeho, Spišská Belá – Strážky  exterior views only  Sun 9:00; Tue, Thu, Fri: 17:30 Directly across the street from the Strážky Chateau sits the gothic Church of St Anne and a Renaissance bell tower. Visitors can see Mednyánszky’s painting of the bell tower next to the window in the chateau that overlooks it, but it is worthwhile to see the real thing. The church from the end of the 15th century, in addition to its ribbed vault in the sanctuary and the nave and late gothic wall paintings, features three gothic wing altars from around 1520. The main altarpiece dedicated to St Anne was made in the Master Paul of Levoča’s workshop. The bell tower was built by Ulrich Materer and dates to the end of the 16th and the beginning of the 17th century. The outside figural sgraffito ornaments differ from other bell towers in Spiš because it has a hunting motif. The text was added later “Soli deo HB 1629 Gloria” - Glory to God Alone. The church of St Anne and the bell tower are the property of the Catholic Church and on the list of National Cultural Heritage. 8 kežMarok W (city,castle)  page 128 9 PoPrad W map F 3  327 km / 203.2 miles (204 min) NE of Bratislava  52,862  Štefánikova 99/72, Poprad in Dom Kultúry (House of Culture) +421 (0)52 772-1700 www.poprad.sk   1.1 km / 0.8 mile NW of centre Poprad is the largest city in the Spiš region. Situated in northeast Slovakia, it is often referred to as the gateway to the HighTatras as it is located at the foot of the mountains. Because of its location, Poprad is an excellent jumping off spot to various mountain resorts and national parks, including Tatra National Park, Low Tatras National Park and Pieniny National Park. Sculptures in Strážky are exhibited on the grounds outside

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northern slovakia 127 AquaCity Poprad  Športová 1397/1, Poprad 1 km / 0.6 mile (13 min) NE of the Main Square +421 (0)52 785- 1111 www.aquacity.sk Mon 11:00-22:00 Tue-Sun 8:00-22:00 from €3.5    WC One of the best known attractions in Poprad is AquaCity, a popular water park which was named the world’s leading green resort in 2007 and 2008. It is popular with children and offers a place to relax in the mineral pools. Kostol sv. Egídia (Church of St Aegidius)  Námestie svätého Egídia 75, Poprad +421 (0)52 788- 0361 exterior views only  Mon-Fri 19:30 Sun 6:00, 17:00 Poprad also has a rich historical and religious heritage. The first written reference to the existing settlement dates from 1256. The oldest preserved historical building in Poprad, dating back to the 13th and 14th centuries, is the Church of St Aegidius and its Renaissance bell tower with its gabled roof. This church is the most significant architectural structure in Poprad. The history of the church dates from the second half of the 13th century, but the exact date of its origin is unknown. There are a number of notable elements in the church’s interior, including the remnants of a series of elaborate mediaeval wall paintings depicting scenes from the Bible. The earliest of these paintings was made around 1330. Next to the church stands a column with a statue of the Immaculata dating from 1728 and a classicist Protestant church from 1834. Podtatranské múzeum (Podtratranské Museum)  Vajanského 74, Poprad +421 (0)52 772-1924  www.muzeumpp.sk Oct-Apr: Tue-Fri 9:00- 16:00 Sat-Sun 12:00-16:00; May-Sep: Tue-Fri 9:00- 16:00 Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00 €2   WC A good way to explore the history of this region is to visit the Podtatranské Museum, founded in 1876, making it one of Slovakia’s oldest. Among its more interesting exhibits is the cast of the skull of a Neandhertal man from nearby Gánovce. The man’s age has been calculated to be more than 105,000 years. The museum also exhibits the tomb of a Germanic prince from the turn of the 4th century. The tomb was uncovered in 2006 during construction of an industrial park. In the exceptional soil conditions and at a depth of five metres, a perfectly preserved log roofed house with a wooden sarcophagus together with a leather garment were discovered.Textile remnants of the deceased were also uncovered. This preserved piece of wooden architecture is the only one of its kind found in Europe. Tatranská galéria (Tatra Gallery)  Hviezdoslavova 12, Poprad 0.7 km / 0.5 mile (8 min) N of the Main Square in Poprad +421 (0)52 772-1968  www.tatragaleria.sk  Mon-Fri 9:00-17:00 Sun 13:00-17:00 €2   WC Another place of interest near Poprad is theTatra Gallery. Opened in 1992, it is housed in what was once a power station. In May 1993 it held its first exhibition and since then has regularly hosted art exhibits and cultural workshops. The building underwent a thorough reconstruction and re-opened in February 2014. Spišská Sobota 1.5 km / 1 mile (20 min) NE of main square in Poprad Kostol sv. Juraja (Church of St George)  Sobotské námestie 5, Spišská Sobota +421 (0)52 772-2250 (church) May-Oct: Mon-Sat 9:00-17:00, Sun 13:00-17:00 (bell tower – exterior views only)  Mon-Fri 18:00, Sat 7:00, Sun 8:00, 10:00 €1 Spišská Sobota, which was incorporated into Poprad in 1946, is one of the best preserved mediaeval urban settings in Slovakia. The newly reconstructed square is surrounded by burghers’ houses built along gothic and Renaissance lines, though some were rebuilt in the baroque style. Johann Brokoff, the noted painter, was born in one of these houses in 1652. The square is dominated by the early romanesque Church of St George, which was rebuilt in the gothic style in 1464. The church’s interior includes five gothic wing altars of which the main altar of St George from 1516 is the best known. Its equestrian sculpture of St George, as well as the Last Supper are examples of the late gothic carving mastery of Master Paul from Levoča. In the 17th century local baroque woodcarver Paulus Gross and his workshop created the pulpit and the organ console of the church. A Renaissance bell tower from 1598 stands next to the church. It was rebuilt in the baroque style between 1755 and 1758. The former city hall is located in the centre of the square. The Marian column, Immaculata, was believed to have been built near the city hall in 1689 and is the tallest of its kind in the Spiš region. 10 sPiŠský ŠTVrTok (gothic church)  page 212 11 draVce (gothic church)  page 212 Bell tower in Poprad Photo:courtesyofAquaCityPoprad

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128 northern slovakia - kežmarok 1 Hrad Kežmarok (castle)  Hradné námestie 42, Kežmarok +421 (0)52 452-2619   May-Sep: Mon-Sun 9:00–16:00  Oct-Apr: Mon-Fri 9:00–16:00 (entrance every hour except of 12:00) €3   WC Like most castles, the one in Kežmarok was built to protect the town against invaders. What makes this unusually well-preserved castle different is that it was built on the territory of the town and thus making it a so-called urban castle. The first written information dates from 1463; the castle was owned by three families (Zápolya, Lasky and Thököly) until the town bought it in 1702. Over the years it was rebuilt from a gothic keep into a splendid residence with a Renaissance attic completed with an early baroque chapel in 1657. Since 1931 it has been a museum chronicling the history and development of Kežmarok. Because it shares the same elevation as the town, the castle is refreshingly accessible to pedestrians. Visitors can expect a formal tour given in Slovak lasting about an hour; English translations are available. While climbing up and down narrow stairways and moving through a succession of rooms, one is treated to breathtaking views of the castle’s inner courtyard below and the majestic HighTatras above. The castle also incorporates a motor museum, presumably to tempt those suffering from castle fatigue. The motor museum is exclusively for vehicles of Czechoslovak origin, and none the worse for that. 2 Hlavné námestie (Main Square) 2a Múzeum meštianskej bytovej kultúry (Museum of Town Housing Culture)  Hlavné námestie 55, Kežmarok +421 (0)52 452-2906   May-Sep: Mon–Sun 9:00-17:00  Oct-Apr: Mon-Fri 8:00-16:00 €1  WC 2b Radnica (Town Hall)  Hlavné námes- tie 1, Kežmarok  exterior views only  free Cosy and pedestrian friendly, the fork-shaped Main Square in Kežmarok – from the historical Town Hall to the castle – is lined with seven centuries worth of historical houses reflecting romanesque, Renaissance, baroque and classicist styles. One of the first stops for tourists to get their bearings should be No. 46 near theTown Hall where the town gallery and the tourist information office is located. Today’s Main Square features many small businesses operating from the historical houses. There are restaurants, convenience stores, gift shops, florists, bars, pharmacies and a small boutique hotel lining the walk from the Town Hall to the castle. Not far from the castle is the Museum of the Housing Culture in a historical house originally dating from 1698 and rebuilt in the 19th and 20th centuries. The museum 8 kežMarok W map G 2  15 km / 9 miles (19 min) NE of Poprad 16,832  Hlavné námestie 46, Kežmarok +421(0)52 449- 2135 www.kezmarok.sk 1.9 km / 1.2 miles W of the centre  0.8 km / 0.5 mile NW of the centre  July: European folk craft; August: Last Holiday Night in the Castle; October: Halloween in Kežmarok Castle First mentioned in 1251, the history of the northern Slovak town of Kežmarok is firmly anchored in its location. Along with neighbouring Levoča, it was on the trade route connecting the then eastern world with northern Europe – and it is surrounded by the HighTatras, the BelianskeTatras and the Slovak Paradise region. The luck of geography combined with a forward-thinking citizenry ensured its future, for Kežmarok was a truly privileged town, attaining free royal town status in 1269. There were plenty of other privileges granted during the 15th century that helped shape the economy in the early days including the right to hold a weekly market and an exemption from paying taxes to Poland and Hungary. But during the same century its history became more complicated, too. It was destroyed by Hussites in 1433 and the right of warehousing granted to it two years later led to armed conflicts with Levoča, which ended only in 1570. The development of Kežmarok was negatively affected by the Thököly dynasty between the 16th and 17th centuries, who got the town into a vassal position and it was only able to regain its free royal town status in 1655. Kežmarok and Levoča were left off the main railway line, and both saw themselves surpassed by Poprad and Spisšká NováVes as regional centres as a result. The town was connected to the railway only in 1889.Today, Kežmarok, along with Levoča, is home to the most extensive and most complete set of cultural and historical monuments in the Spiš region. A motor museum in Kežmarok Castle MainSquareinKežmarok

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northern slovakia - kežmarok 129 focuses on the furniture found in the homes of Spiš urban gentry from the second half of the 17th to the beginning of the 20th century. 3 Bazilika Svätého Kríža (Church of the Holy Cross)  Kostolné námestie, Kežmarok +421 (0)52 452-2220  Jun-Sep: Mon-Fri 9:00–17:00  Oct-May: booking necessary  Mon-Thu, Sat 6:00, 18:00 Fri 6:00, 16:30, 18:00 Sun 6:00, 8:00, 10:00, 16:30, 18:00voluntary  WC The Roman Catholic Church of the Holy Cross in Kežmarok is one of the largest three- nave gothic churches in the Spiš region. Although the foundations date back to the romanesque time of the 13th century, the present late gothic church was reconstructed in the years 1444-1498 by the Zápolya family (who lived in the castle at the time) and the town’s burghers. It is known for its valuable altar from the late gothic period, considered to be one of the first works of Master Paul of Levoča. 4 Drevený artikulárny Evanjelický kostol (Wooden Articular Church of Holy Trinity)  Hviezdoslavova 18, Kežmarok +421 (0)52 452-2242 www.ecavkk.sk  May-Oct: Mon-Sat 9:00–12:00, 14:00– 17:00  Nov-Apr: Tue-Fri 10:00–12:00, 14:00–16:00   Sun 9:00 €3  Only five of the 38 wooden articular churches built in Slovakia survived the ravages of time. One of them is in Kežmarok. They received the name articular after articles adopted at a congress in Hungary’s Sopron in 1681, at which Protestants gained some freedoms, including the right to build churches, though there were some restrictions. For example, the church had to be built within one year and behind the town’s walls. The entrance could not be from the main street, with the hope that the structures wouldn’t last. Kežmarok’s wooden articular church got its current shape in 1717, after the original church was re-built. Protestants from northern Europe raised the money for the re-building of the church with the floor plan shaped like a Greek cross with four arms of equal length. Legend has it that Swedish seamen helped construct the church, and indeed its design would lend credence to this assertion, because the church’s windows are obviously shaped like the portholes of a boat. Along with the other seven wooden churches in Slovakia the church in Kežmarok was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2008. 5 Nový evanjelický kostol (New Evangelical Church)  Hviezdoslavova 18, Kežmarok +421 (0)52 452-2242 www.ecavkk.sk  May-Oct: Mon-Sat 9:00–12:00, 14:00–17:00  Nov-Apr: Tue-Fri 10:00–12:00, 14:00–16:00   Sun 9:00 €3  The New Evangelical Church with its distinctive red, green, and white colours is immediately noticeable from the Main Square of Kežmarok. Construction of the church, according to the design of Theofil von Hansen, started in 1872, but financial problems delayed its completion until 1894. This elegant church’s eclectic architecture incorporates byzantine, romanesque, Renaissance and Moorish styles. The mausoleum of Imre Thököly, added to the church in 1909, is still of interest to Hungarian tourists as evidenced by the ribbons and floral tributes that adorn this side room. Thököly, born in Kežmarok in 1657, was the owner of the castle and the leader of the anti-Habsburg uprising of Hungarian aristocrats. He escaped toTurkey and died there in 1705, but his remains were returned to Kežmarok in 1906. Train station 5 min Starýtrh Kostolnénámestie Kostolnénám. Kostolnénám. Možiarska FraňaKráľa Kušnierskabrána Baštová DoktoraAlexandra Hradnénámestie Nová Kežmarskácesta Priekopa N.požiarnikov Garbiarska MartinaLányiho Kostolnénámestie Garbiarska Hlavnénámestie Hradnénámestie Hlavnénámestie Hlavnénámestie Trhovište Trhovište Hradskácesta Jakuba Kraya Hviezdoslavova Toporcerova Priekopa Baštová Mapka_Kezmarok.indd 1 9. 8. 2 N 1 2 2b 4 5 3 2a i InteriorofWoodenArticularChurchofHolyTrinity

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130 northern slovakia - levoča 12 leVoČa W map G 3  28 km / 17.6 miles (25 min) SE of Poprad  14,830 Námestie Majstra Pavla 58, Levoča +421 (0)53 451-3763 www.levoca.sk   1.1 km / 0.6 mile S of centre  July: Master Paul Days; Pilgrimage on Mariánska hora; August: Carpathian crafts market; August: Tajomná Levoča (night light show with many concerts in the town); October: Levočské Babie leto (international festival of classical and contemporary music); December: Christmas market Location, location, location says the modern realtor to a prospective buyer or renter. And surely Levoča’s location as a main stop on the trade route between Poland and Hungary contributed to its ability to maintain diverse income streams from the past to the present. One important talent that Levoča’s current citizens shared with their mediaeval forbearers was the ability to make money, and this trait contributed to the city’s wealth both then and today. Merchants on the trade route were required to stay in the city for 14 days as well as to sell their wares to Levoča’s citizens upon request. They had to pay for their stalls in the marketplace as well as a tax based on the weight and measure of their goods. All of these activities generated revenue for the town, and its economic development was assured when King Charles Robert of Anjou called Levoča our royal town and awarded the town the right of storage in 1321. Legend has it that Levoča’s most famous femme fatale, a beautiful and socially ambitious woman nicknamed theWhite Lady hosted a ball to occupy the soldiers and townspeople whilst she betrayed the town by letting in a Catholic army. She never got the aristocratic title she craved, but instead was tortured and executed when her crime was discovered by enraged fellow citizens. Her ghost is rumoured to walk atop the walls at night in a white nightgown. In today’s Levoča, tourism is an important industry, and the town was added to UNESCO’sWorld Heritage List sites in 2009. The very centre of the town is Námestie Majstra Pavla, Levoča’s main square named after the town’s most famous citizen, the acclaimed woodcarving artist Master Paul. It is thoughtfully laid out in a long rectangle with most of the main sights within easy walking distance. The legacy of wealth combined with the activism of the city’s leading families is apparent in the well-preserved and thoughtfully repurposed burgher houses that line the perimeter, as are the sacral and civic buildings that dominate the square. Must sees on the square include the Church of St James, the historicalTown Hall, the Cage of Shame, the House of Master Paul and the Evangelical Church. There is also an indoor and outdoor theatre venue next to the Church of St James. Also of interest is the site of the current Hotel Arkáda, which was owned by the Brewer family (originally fromWittenberg), who established a printing business and printed the first edition of the Evangelic hymnbook, Cithara Sanctorum, by Juraj Tranovský. The preservation of the historic district is evident today in the well-maintained burgher house façades that function as both commercial and residential spaces. 1 2 3 Town Hall Church of St James Historical Town Hall Spiš Museum - Fine Art Culture of Spiš Evangelical church White Lady from Levoča

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northern slovakia - levoča 131 1 Church of St James  page 132 2 Historická radnica (Historical Town Hall)  Námestie Majstra Pavla 2, Levoča +421 (0)53 451-2449  www.snm.sk  Mar-Oct 15: Tue-Sun 9:00-17:00; Oct 16-Feb: Tue-Fri 9:00-17:00 Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00 €3.50 (for all three exhibitions around Levoča)  WC One of the centrepieces of the main square, this sumptuous building reflects the wealth of the burgeoning town of Levoča and its burgher citizens. Originally built with two storey in the gothic style around 1470, the hall was rebuilt in Renaissance style after a large fire destroyed much of the city in 1550, and then in the baroque style during a 1768 rebuild. Since the town administration moved to a nearby vacant department store building, the oldTown Hall now houses a city museum. Located next to theTown Hall is the so-called Cage of Shame. This 16th century pillory’s purpose was for punishing lighter offenses as well as girls and women who violated the strict decency rules of the times. Its wrought iron cage is fashioned with designs of hearts and lilies (symbols of innocence and love). The cage was used as a punishment for various infractions – one of which was being caught after dark without a male escort. Women were put in the cage wearing only their underclothes and made to stay there between 24 and 48 hours exposed to the elements. Some perished from the cold. If that were not enough, once the punishment concluded, they were banished from town. 3 Dom Majstra Pavla (Master Paul’s House)  Námestie Majstra Pavla 20, Levoča +421 (0)53 451-3496  www.snm.sk  Tue-Sun 9:00-17:00 €3.50 (for all three exhibitions around Levoča)  WC Master Paul’s house is directly across the street from the Church of St James. Arguably the town’s most famous citizen, he carved altars and statues for both Catholic and Protestant churches in the area. Details of his life and work are exhibited in the museum at the house where he lived in circa 1510. One popular display is a copy of the bottom panel of the St James altar, the Last Supper, which was exhibited at the 1967 World Expo in Montreal and won first place in art. Visitors beware: the altar copy frequently makes the rounds at other museums, so it may not always be here. In addition to his stature as an artist, Master Paul (1455-probably 1540) was also a prominent resident civically. He made Levoča his home and was elected to serve on the city council. He raised his three daughters and one son in the house. 4 Spišskémúzeum-VýtvarnákultúranaSpiši (Spiš Museum - Fine Art Culture of Spiš)  NámestieMajstraPavla40,Levoča +421(0)53451-2786www.snm.skMar-Oct15: Tue-Sun9:00-17:00;Oct16-Feb:Tue-Fri9:00-17:00Sat- -Sun13:00-17:00 €3.50(forallthreeexhibitions aroundLevoča)  WC Around the edges of the main square are more than 50 Renaissance and gothic houses, with arcade-like courtyards, some of which have now been transformed into small hotels or restaurants. Other notable buildings include the Thurzo House, Máriássy House, and the Krupek House, bearing the names of the wealthy families who once owned them. In addition there is the House of Hain, where the eventual Slovak national anthem Lightening over theTatras was first sung in the 19th century and is a museum today. 5 Mestské hradby (city walls)  Baštová and Kukučínova streets, Levoča non-stop, exterior views only The city walls protecting Levoča date from the 13th and 14th centuries and, at 2.5 kilometres in length, are the most well- preserved fortification system in Slovakia. Of the original three entrance gates, all survive today, while as much as 80 percent of the original fortification system has been preserved. Apart from the walls it included a 15-metre wide dike, four metres deep. The walls were rebuilt during the 16th and 17th centuries. Exploring them today, you can see the holes through which soldiers could fire Uhoľná SídliskoPriPrameni Trainstation Kláštorská Hradby Predmestie Baštová JánaFrancisciho Uhoľná Ružová PotočnáBaštová Baštová M.R.Štefánika Vetrová Probstnerovacesta Košická Kláštorská Kežmarskácesta Potočná Kláštorská Nová Nová Nová RužováProbstnerovacesta Probstnerova cesta M.Hlaváčka Kasárenská GustávaHermana Dlhá Móricova Kukučínova Vysoká Vysoká NámestieMajstraPavlaNámestieMajstraPavla Sirotínska Mäsiarska Mäsiarska Špitálska Kukučínova Sirotínska Kláštorská JánaBottu Žiacka Špitálska Želez.riadok N 2 4 3 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 1 i HistoricalTownHallandCageofShame

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132 northern slovakia - levoča their weapons and the houses of the men who guarded the city walls. 1 Chrám Sv. Jakuba (Church of St James) city map page 131  Námestie Majstra Pavla 53, Levoča +421 (0)53 451-2347 www.chramsvjakuba.skApr(Easter)-Jun,Sep-Oct: Mon11:30,13:00-16:00(entryeveryhour)Tue-Sat 8:30-11:30,13:00-16:00(entryeveryhour)Sun13:00- 16:00(entryeveryhour);Jul-Aug:Mon11:00-17:00 (entryevery30minutes)Tue-Sat9:00-17:00(entry every30minutes)Sun12:00-17:00(entryevery30 minutes);Nov-Apr(Easter):Mon11:30,13:00-16:00 (entryeveryhour)Tue-Sat8:30-11:30,13:00-16:00 (entryeveryhour),guidedtourinEnglishavailable (bookingnecessary) Mon-Fri:6:00,18:00Sat:6:30, 19:00,Sun:8:00,10:00,19:00€2   Though the 14th century Church of St James is the local parish church, it inspires as much awe as any cathedral with its mixture of gothic, Renaissance, and baroque styles. The main claim to fame for the second largest gothic church in Slovakia is the St James altar. It is the tallest gothic altar in the world (18.62 m), and was carved from lime wood by the acclaimed Master Paul. He began the altar in 1506 or 1507 and finished it seven years later. His carvings are known for their gently downcast eyes, expressive facial features and signature ear shapes, which are discernable in the folds of the clothes. If you have more time, there are 10 additional gothic and Renaissance altars for reflection. The Csáky family altar mixes gothic and baroque styles, but for a reason. It seems that the Catholics were afraid that Protestants would destroy some free standing Master Paul nativity statues, so they hid seven of them behind a wall in the town hall. When rediscovered in the mid-1700s, the Csáky family commissioned an altar that housed these gothic statues in a baroque-style frame. Baroque was the dominant architectural style at the time. While waiting in line for confession in the northern nave, the largely illiterate penitents of the 15th century could study the two fresco wall cycles that functioned as a Bible. One depicts the torture and execution of St Dorothy while the other illustrates the Seven Acts of Mercy and the Seven Deadly Sins. The latter cycle was supposed to remind the wealthy burgher class to donate to charity, help the poor and live a sin-free life. The massive organ still functions today, and the church hosts many concerts. Although mistakenly called the Church of St Jacob, the Church of St James is the correct name. St James was the patron saint of Levoča as well as the patron saint of merchants, travellers and pilgrims. The Church of St James is one of the biggest gothic churches in Slovakia. The tallest gothic altar of the world in Levoča. Photo:courtesyofSimplicissimusvydavateľstvo CitywallsinLevoča

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northern slovakia 133 Mariánska hora (Mariánska Hill)  Mariánska hora +421 (0)53 451-2826 (Pútnic- ký a exercičný dom, Levoča, Mariánska hora)  7:00-18:00  seasonal services (Apr 27-Oct 25) Mon-Fri 5:40, Sat 9:30, Sun: 14:30  WC The world famous pilgrimage site Mariánska Hill overlooks the city. Villagers built the church in gratitude to the Virgin Mary for saving their lives as they hid behind the hill undiscovered while evading the 14th century invading Tartars. Though it is open all year, the site sees the most action on the first Sunday in July (The Feast of the Visitation). Pope John Paul II designated the church a basilica in 1984, and when he visited 10 years later, nearly 650,000 of the faithful flocked to Levoča to attend mass. There are five chapels on the pilgrimage route as well as a lime tree alley that was named after Pope John Paul II during a ceremony commemorating the 10th anniversary of his visit. 13 sPiŠské Podhradie map G 3  42 km / 26 miles (39 min) SE of Poprad  4,078  Mariánske námestie 34, Spišské Podhradie +421 (0)53 469-9078 www.new.spisskepodhradie.sk  Kostol narodenia Panny Márie (Church of the Nativity of the Virgin Mary)  Palešovo námestie 3, Spišské Podhradie +421 (0)53 454-1145  entrance hall  Mon-Sat 18:00 Sun 8:00, 10:30, 18:00  The history of Spišské Podhradie is closely connected with the Spiš Castle and Spišská Kapitula, seats of the then secular and religious powers. It was founded as a settlement below the castle hill, but quickly became independent of the castle. The fork-shaped layout of the town streets are lined by Renaissance burgher and craftsmen houses dominated by the Roman Catholic Church of the Nativity of Virgin Mary. It was originally gothic while only the steeple and entrance portal have remained from that era. A series of additions in 1829 gave the church its present classicist characteristics. The most precious pieces in the interior are the gothic altar of St Barbora, from 1521 and part of which is now in the Slovak National Gallery, as well as the baptismal font. The history of the town’s multi-religious inhabitants is still visible in Spišské Podhradie today, evident by the remaining Evangelical church, the church and monastery of the Merciful Brothers and a synagogue. The synagogue, inspired by neo- classicist and oriental architecture, underwent serious reconstruction in 1905-1906 following a fire, but has retained its original altarpiece from 1875. The site is now used for cultural events. The town is also known for the production of Spišské párky, a kind of sausage. Spišská Kapitula  Spišská Kapitula 13, Spišské Podhradie www.new.spisskepodhradie.sk  non-stop free    WC Katedrála Sv. Martina (Cathedral of St Martin)  Spišská Kapitula 13, Spišské Podhradie +421 (0)907 388-411  May-Oct: Mon-Sat 10:00-16:30, Sun 13:30-16:30  Jan-Apr: Tue-Fri 9:00-14:30, Tue- -Fri Nov-Dec: 11:00-14:30  Sun 9:00 €2 Spišská Kapitula is a fortified ecclesiastical complex overlooking Spišské Podhradie, which in its spatial arrangement resembles the Vatican. The history of this single- street religious centre dates back to the 12th century. In 1776 Empress Maria Theresa promoted the provost’s seat to a bishopric. The religious spirit of Spišská Kapitula is still alive today. While the bishop remained here also during the communist regime, the seminary re-opened only in 1991 after a 40-year break during which its premises served as a military school of music and a school for police. The late-romanesque Cathedral of St Martin is Spišská Kapitula’s most impressive building. Its two towers, narrow windows and the back of the building have retained their romanesque character, however much of the rest of the church underwent radical reconstruction between 1462 and 1478. The gothic altars and murals on the interior walls are the most precious items in the cathedral. Next to it is the chapel of the Zápolya family, built between 1488 and 1493 and inspired by the two-storey Saint Chapelle in Paris. The single street of Spišská Kapitula is flanked by narrow gothic and Renaissance canonry houses. SpišskáKapitula(Photo:MiroŠvec) MariánskaHill(Photo:MiroŠvec)

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14 sPiŠský hrad W (Spiš Castle) map G 3  45 km / 28 miles (42 min) SE of Poprad Spišské Podhradie 4 km / 2.5 miles SW of the castle   The main entrance is easily accessible by car from the village Hodkovce. A walk from the village Spišské Podhradie up to the main castle entrance takes about 60 min +421 (0)53 454-1336    www.spisskyhrad.sk  9:00-18:00  Mar, Oct: 9:00-16:00, Feb, Nov: 10:00- 15:00, Apr 9:00-17:00, Dec closed  €5   WC  May: Night of Museums; June: Children\'s Day; July-August: Night tours One of the largest castles in Slovakia, spreading over 41,000 square metres, Spiš Castle is an exceptional ex- ample of mediaeval fortifica- tion architecture. Its strategic location meant its defenders could survey vast swathes of two trade routes running east-west and north-south, between the High and Low Tatras. This wonderful location was not lost on even the earliest human settlers of the region, and the skull of a neolithic man has been discov- ered nearby. There is also evidence of settlements dating from 2 BC, and coins have been found from Celtic and Roman times. While remains of earlier constructions have been found, the present castle was built in the beginning of the early 12th century. During the 13th century a monumental romanesque three-storey prism-shaped palace was added, which is a rare ex- ample of a preserved secular ro- manesque building. While it may not seem explicit to some visitors, those who have visited the Cathedral in Spišská Kapitula may draw connections between the architecture of both buildings, as it is largely accepted that they shared the same Italian architects and stonemasons. By the end of the 13th century, the castle complex had spread over most of its current site. The castle belonged to the royal Árpád and Anjou dynasties. Spiš Castle singled itself out as one of the strongest castles in the region during the 13th century as it remained unconquered, though seriously damaged, by Tartar invaders in 1241. In 1465 it became property of the Zápolya family, who converted the castle from a military fortress into a gothic aristocratic seat. They added a chapel, dedicated to St Elizabeth, and made much of their reconstruction reminiscent of other European castles from the period. The Zápolya family owned the castle until 1528, before it was passed on to the wealthy Thurzo family. They built new palaces, enhanced the fortifications and turned it into a comfortable Renaissance seat. In 1636, the complex changed hands again and went to the Csáky family, which was the last aristocratic family to actually inhabit the castle. In the 18th century, the family left the castle after an extensive fire, which in 1780 turned it into ruins. After World War II the castle was classified as state cultural property. Later, it underwent excavations and reconstruction to include a museum. The castle was recognised as a national monument in 1961 and received a further boost to its restoration efforts when it was included on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1993. 134 northern slovakia - sPiš castle The restored sections of the castle contain exhibitions on weaponry and examples of mediaeval kitchens, bedrooms and toilets. The fortification of the lower forecastle was built in the mid-13th century to strengthen the castle after the Tartar plunder in 1241. The gothic chapel dedicated to St Elizabeth was built in the 15th century.

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northern slovakia - sPiš castle 135 15 žehra map G 3  47 km / 29 miles (45 min) SE of Poprad  2,099 www.zehra.tym.sk  Kostol Ducha Svätého (Church of the Holy Spirit)  Žehra 87 +421 (0)53 448-5027 Mon-Fri 10:00-16:00, Sat 14:00-17:00 (booking necessary)  Sun 10:30  €1.70 Žehra ranks as one of the oldest inhabited villages of the Spiš region and its Church of the Holy Spirit is on the UNESCO World Heritage List as part of the Levoča, Spišský Hrad and Associated Cultural Monuments grouping. While this onion-domed church is noted for its age, with initial construction dating to 1245-1275, and its romanesque and gothic architecture, the mediaeval mural paintings remotely resembling Giotto’s work make it truly special. The murals depicting Biblical scenes spread from the floor up to the ceiling, with the oldest one dating to 1275. The best of the murals are in the sanctuary on the triumphal arch and the north wall. The paintings were originally intended as a way for the illiterate mediaeval church-goers to access the Bible. They were whitewashed after the plague outbreak in the middle of the 17th century and the first attempt to reveal them occurred in the late 19th century. They were only completely uncovered in the 1950s. Furthermore, part of the castle was also refurbished, superficially at least, by movie directors. The location scouts for The Last Legion and Dragonheart, among others, found a perfect backdrop here for their mediaeval epics and part of the arch over the new entrance gate to the castle is made of the finest Hollywood polystyrene. The castle is essentially a ruin, but enough of the walls and internal palaces are intact to house a museum and a chapel, while the grounds are sufficiently vast to encourage lengthy explora- tion. There is also a fine, steep trek to head up and around the hill on which it stands, and in the summer, the grounds are sometimes used for music and theatre performances. In short, there’s a full day’s activities available if you so desire. More realistically, Spiš Castle is best stared at for a long time from ground level, and then visited for a couple of hours, where you can either join a guided tour, or wander freely through what amounts to a vast sprawl of stone and grass. The main sights are the watchtower and the restored areas of the palaces, where the exhibitions of armour- ments, weaponry and torture de- vices, as well as a model of the functioning castle, puts everything into context. The watchtower is likely to provide the most entertainment to the casual visitor. It is an impossibly tight squeeze up a stone spiral staircase, passing narrow windows affording quick glimpses outside, as well as mediaeval latrines cut into the walls, for the soldier caught short during his shift. Emerging at the top, approximately 640 metres above sea level, the reward is a spectacular view over hundreds of hectares of surrounding countryside, and into nearby vil- lages. The closest, Spišské Podhradie, started out as a servants’ village for the castle, giving an idea of the size of the structure itself. The foundations of a circular stronghold are from the period after 1443. The main entrance to the castle The watchtower is one of the dominant features of the castle and offers a magnificent view of the countryside.

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136 northern slovakia - markušovce 16 MarkuŠoVce map G 3  34 km / 21 miles (33 min) SE of Poprad  3,988 www.markusovce.sk   July-August: Night tours; Galafest (festival of music and crafts) Kaštieľ Markušovce a Letohrádok Dardanely (Lower Manor House and Summer Palace Dardanelle)  Michalská 55, 59, Markušovce +421 (0)917 746 -338  www.muzeumspisa.com  Tue-Sun 9:00-17:00  Tue-Fri, Sun 8:00-16:00 Summer Palace Dardanelle - currently undergoing reconstruction and will reopen in 2015 at earliest  €3  WC Markušovce offers an excellent opportunity to experience 12th to 19th century central Europe. The history, and to a large extent the major buildings of this rural village a few kilometres from Spišská Nová Ves are deeply connected to one family, the Mariássys. In fact the town itself was named after one of the 12th century Mariássys, Marko, and the village’s dominant structure is the fortified Mariássys Manor House, now in ruins. By the late 17th century the combined efforts of the imperial army, various fires, and family squabbles resulted in the closing of the large manor house and building a Lower Manor House which survives and offers the focus for today’s visitor. The property stayed in the Mariássy family until it was sold in 1933 and emptied of its contents. Following World War II, the estate became state-owned and in 1953 took on its role as a museum of historical furnishings. The Lower Manor House, built in the Renaissance style of block- fortified manor houses, is overwhelming. With its four cylindrical towers, false third floor, moat and central tower, it cries out “the people who live here are powerful and important”. Intimidating visitors was not a bad idea as few at that time came peacefully. The system for barring the door involved a log built into the door casement. Touring the interior raises as many questions about the building’s inhabitants as it answers. State- sponsored reconstruction made the building inhabitable but sheds little light on what living there must have been like. Perhaps it is because the museum’s contents come from various places. For example, there was an off-hand comment that some porcelain on a dining room table “was owned by a Jewish family”. The furniture collection is nonetheless impressive. The first floor features articles largely local to the Spiš area including many from Spiš Castle while the ground floor offers a broader range of artefacts from across the country. Behind the Lower Manor House is the Rococo Folly or the Dardanelles built in 1778 for an anticipated visit by Emperor Joseph II. When the Emperor’s plans changed the unfinished building (the two side wings were not complete) became a summer home for the Mariássy family. Today the now completed building serves as a museum for keyboard and string instruments (including a large collection of accordions) and the second floor as a recital hall for public performances. The Dardanelle Summer Palace serves as a museum for keyboard and string instruments. The Lower Manor House was built in the Renaissance style.

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northern slovakia - sPišská nová ves 137 17 sPiŠská noVáVes map G 3  27 km / 17 miles (28 min) SE of Poprad  38,045  Letná 49 +421 (0)53 429- 8293 www.spisskanovaves.eu   1 km / 0.6 mile NW of centre  July: Spišský trh (Spiš market); December: Christmas market The jazz staple “On the Sunny Side of the Street” takes on new meaning when visiting Spišská Nová Ves. The south side, the Summer Street or Letná ulica, of theTown Hall Square receives the majority of the area’s abundant sunshine while the north side, Winter Street or Zimná ulica, lives much of its life in shade. The square, one of the longest lens-shaped squares in Europe, is a veritable forest of mature chestnut trees that filters the sunlight into shimmering beams. Every key site is easily walkable, parking is abundant, restaurants and cafés abound (mostly on Letná ulica), and most of the descriptive signs are in English. Spišská Nová Ves first grew to prominence as a mining town in the Middle Ages, with copper and then iron as its principal commodity. The tradition of metal working was carried further by the first and most significant gothic bell-foundry in the territory of Slovakia, which was founded in 1357 by Master Konrád and was the foremost source of church and municipal bells for central Europe.Two bells produced in the foundry are on display even today. Before tourists leave Spišská Nová Ves, they should remember to ring the bell at the Place of Wishes marking the bell-foundry located between theTown Hall and the Catholic church. Since 1868, the mining industry has been in decline and the town is now most regarded for its series of historical monuments and tourist attractions. 1 Kostol Nanebovzatia Panny Márie (ChurchoftheAssumptionoftheVirginMary)  Radničné námestie 6, Spišská Nová Ves +421 (0)53 442-2777  entrance hall  Mon-Sat 6:45, 18:30 Sun 8:00, 9:15, 10:30, 18:30  voluntary  Church tower +421 (0)53 429-8293 (Infocentre)  Mon-Fri 10:00, 11:00, 13:00, 14:00, 15:00, 16:00, 17:00; Sat 10:00, 12:00; Sun 15:00,17:00  Mon-Fri 10:00, 11:00, 13:00, 14:00, 15:00, 16:00; Sat-Sun booking necessary €1 This gothic church is slightly cock-eyed from the east-west axis, favouring the large stained-glass windows that make up the north wall of the chancel. Master Paul of Levoča, who partly designed this church’s interior, may have had a hand in designing the south wall with smaller windows and several very beautifully designed chapels. The original gothic main altar was replaced in 1621 by another Renaissance altar. The church also has a gothic portal which dates from the 14th century and a bronze baptismal font from 1549, part of which historians attribute to the bell-foundry workshop. This parish an ideal place for a family holiday SPIŠSKÁ NOVÁ VES with rich and attractive offer for spending your leisure time FAMILY STAY Pack whole your family and enjoy a stay full of fun and unforgettable experience in Spišská Nová Ves Accommodation, ZOO, MONKEYLAND High Rope Park, lido and indoor swimming pool, Ceragem massage, ascent to the highest church tower in Slovakia, visit of the Place of Wishes, The Slovak Paradise National Park in immediate vicinity of the town from 129€ FULL OF EXPERIENCE TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE www.spisskanovaves.eu/tic +421 53/442 82 92, +421 53/429 82 93, tic@spisskanovaves.eu Place of Wishes SP013290/002

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138 northern slovakia - sPišská nová ves church attracts both crowds of worshippers as well as tourists who want to climb to the top of the highest church steeple in Slovakia. This 87-metre-high neo- gothic tower has seven clock faces driven by a single set of clockwork. In tourist-speak, this translates to 154 steps to a four- sided viewing balcony, although it is possible to rest during the punishing ascent on a number of landings, where your guide will fill you in on the history of the city, the tower and the intricacies of the clock and bell system, which are visible inside. Visitors can also stand beneath each of these three main bells. One, weighing a tonne and dating from the 16th century, rings on the hour; another, from the 18th century and known as Joseph, provides the quarter-hour peel. A third, from 1516, announces deaths and funerals. Each has a deafening clang and a trip up and back lasts for more than 15 minutes, so chances are high that visitors will hear one from close quarters.Two smaller bells, known as Peter and Paul, ring out more politely for special occasions or emergencies, respectively. The view from the top of the tower is typically expansive and it is possible to pick out the line of the former fortifications, as well as the locations of the two gateways that led into the old town. 2 Múzeum Spiša (Spiš Museum)  Letná 50, Spišská Nová Ves   +421 (0)53 442-3757 www.muzeumspisa.com  Mon-Fri 8:00-16:30, Sat 9:00-13:00, Sun 13:00-17:00  Mon-Fri 8:00-16:30, Sat 9:00-13:00 from €1  WC Just across from the current town hall is a wonderful façade of the so-called Province House, the former seat of the Province of 16 SpišTowns – a beautiful rococo structure currently housing the Spiš Museum. The façade includes six stucco cartouches symbolically expressing the qualities a town must possess. Chief among these is not evading the law! Thoroughout its history since 1951, the museum has changed exhibits while the current collection offers an overview of the nature and history of the Spiš region and was installed in 1992. The visitors can get a sense of the geographical, geological and paleontological highlights of the region, which neighbours one of the worthiest natural beauties of Slovakia, the Slovenský raj National Park. Tidbits of history are presented through more than 590 archaeological items in the museum’s collection. 4 Radnica (Town Hall)  Radničné námestie 7, Spišská Nová Ves +421 (0)53 429-8293 (Infocentre) free  ceremonial hall only (booking necessary) Situated between the Evangelical and Roman Catholic churches is the classicistTown Hall from the second half of the 18th century, which is a scattered three-floored, six-axial block with a monumental buttress. The main entrance is situated on the north side while the main façade faces south. 3 Evanjelický kostol (Evangelical Church)  Radničné námestie 8, Spišská Nová Ves +421 (0)53 446-5125 8:00-18:00 (entrance hall)  Mon-Fri 17:00, Sun 9:00 voluntary  From the top of the steeple, major buildings of the square appear almost in a line. Starting on the west end of the square is the large Evangelical Church of Augsburg Confession, built in the 1790s and setting the architectural standard for the remainder of the square. Its exterior is painted blue but the church’s interior is decorated with a painting of Christ by the Danish painter Jean Jacques Stunder. The church has a valuable altar painting of Jesus of the Mount of Olives by Stunder, who studied at the Copenhagen Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts and later settled in Levoča.

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5 Reduta (Ball Hall)  Radničné námestie 4, Spišská Nová Ves +421 (0)53 417-3275   for performan- ces from €4 WC  www.spisskedivadlo.sk Further east, behind the church and the World War II memorial, is the Reduta, a massive art nouveau building housing a theatre,TV studio and a small café. It is one of the eight most historically valuable theatre buildings in Slovakia. The building was constructed between 1902 and 1905 based on a project by the architect Kálmán Gerster and its roof is finished and decorated by a swan sitting on a lyre. 6 Chrám Prem. Pána (Church of the Trans. of the Lord)  Letná 79, Spišská Nová Ves +421 (0)911 711-468 voluntary  7:00-19:00 (entrance hall)  Mon-Fri 16:30, Sat 8:00, Sun 8:00, 10:00 Just to the south of the Reduta, across Letná ulica, is a modern Greek Catholic church, the Cathedral of theTransfiguration of the Lord, featuring a stunning mosaic wall across the back of the sanctuary. 7 Zoo www.zoosnv.sk Spišská Nová Ves is also the home of both the smallest and the youngest zoo in Slovakia. Nonetheless, there are more than 110 species inside, as well as an arboretum. Children are offered a number of attractions, especially during the summer season, including the inflated air giraffe or air castle, horseback riding, a mini car show and trampolines. 8 Sporting hub www.stez.sk Despite its relatively small size, Spišská Nová Ves is something of a sporting hub for the region. This includes an indoor and outdoor swimming pool, which is usually full in summer. Visitors can also unleash their competitive drive in a recently reconstructed bowling alley. Spišská Nová Ves has an ice-rink and a shooting range (www.strelnica.snv.sk). The modern sports halls and saunas offer relaxation options to citizens and visitors alike. For those who are looking for more of an adventure skydiving, including various forms of recreational and sport parachuting, is also on offer (www.compact.sk). northern slovakia - sPišská nová ves 139 Kollárova Train station 12 min Radničné námestie Letná Zimná Hradná Ing.Kožucha Strieborná JánaHollého Mierová Letná NádvorieEU Palatínova Nám.sv.Trojice Zimná Letná Nám.M.R. Štefánika Parná Elektrárenskácesta Hradná Koceľova Vnútornáokružná Františkánov Župná Koceľova Zámoryho Andreja Kmeťa Konrádova Vnútornáokružná Tabaková Letná Vnútornáokružná Mapka_SNV.indd 1 9. 8. 2014 12:2 N an ideal place for a romantic holiday SPIŠSKÁ NOVÁ VES with rich and attractive offer for spending your leisure time ROMANTIC STAYIN THE METROPOLIS OF THE SPIŠ REGION Accommodation including a lá carte breakfast in romantically decorated room, welcome drink, three-course romantic dinner, wellness centre, ascent to the highest church tower in Slovakia, visit of the Place of Wishes, romantic dinner on the second day of the stay, The Slovak Paradise National Park in immediate vicinity of the town Experience pleasant moments in the company of a beloved person in the charming environment of Spišská Nová Ves 170€ TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE www.spisskanovaves.eu/tic +421 53/442 82 92, +421 53/429 82 93, tic@spisskanovaves.eu 1 2 5 6 4 3 i SP013290/002

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R2 Podlesok Length:18 km; Duration: 4:45 hours; Elevation difference: 690 m One of the most popular hiking routes in the park begins in Podlesok and tourists can combine several hiking routes marked by different colours: Podlesok (green) - Suchá Belá, záver (yellow) - Pod Vtáčím Hrbom (red) - Kláštorisko (red) - Letanovský Mlyn (blue) - Kláštorská Roklina, ústie (blue) - Hrdlo Hornádu (blue) - Podlesok. 140 northern slovakia - slovenský raj (slovak Paradise) 18 sloVenský raj (slovak Paradise) W map F 3, G 3 25 km / 16 miles (26 min) SE of Poprad Čingov, Podlesok or MlynkyArea:197.63km2 ;Highestpoint:Prednáhoľa(1,545m/5,068 ft) Horská záchranná služba – Slovenský raj (Mountain Rescue Service - Slovak Paradise), www.hzs.sk  Letná ulica 49, Spišská Nová Ves  +421 (0)53 429- 8293;  Hlavná 171, Hrabušice  +421 (0)53 429-9854  year round Emergency  18-300, +421 (0)903 624-092, +421 (0)53 429-7902 Of the nine national parks in Slovakia, none gets a photographer’s finger clicking quite so fast as the Slovenský raj, or Slovak Paradise. The High Tatras might have the lock on snow-capped peaks and precipitous rock-faces, but some of the most dramatic areas of the aptly named paradise are truly other-worldly. Two rivers, the Hnilec and the Hornád, slice through a wide limestone plain, carving gorges, canyons and ravines into the limestone hills, which are otherwise covered in dense spruce forest. Waterfalls tumble and crash over the mountains; the canopy keeps the area dark, green and moist year-round. Previous intrepid explorers have laid a series of chains, iron ladders, wooden walkways and bridges along, through, up and over all this fierce terrain. In places, it feels like an adventure combining DonKey Kong and the Ewok village. The national park is something of a wonderland for wildlife and hikers alike. Although one of the smallest national parks in the country at just less than 200 square kilometres, Slovenský raj is 90 percent covered in beech, spruce, fir and pine forest, providing a perfect habitat to support all the usual Slovak fauna – deer, bear, boar, lynx, wild cat – as well as some rarer endangered species, including the golden eagle, martens, otters, and the European ground squirrel. The park has more plant species per square metre than anywhere else in Europe, and also reportedly has the highest concentration of butterflies in the region. There are 6.06 species of butterfly per square kilometre, a surpisingly precise statistic that conjurs up wonderful images of dedicated counters tangled in big nets as their subjects flutter out of reach. For the present day human imposter, there are 300 kilometres of hiking trails through the park, leading off from a number of former forest worker settlements. R3 Dobšinská ľadová jaskyňa (Dobšinská Ice Cave) The cave is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The ice in the cave was formed during the Ice Age, beside a massive underground lake, permanently frozen and holding an estimated 110,000 cubic metres of ice. Since the late 19th century, when Dobšinská became the first cave in Europe to be electrically illuminated, visitors have been able to delve about 500 metres into the mountainside to two main halls beside the lake. There, in a year-round temperature of about -1 °C, they can stop, gasp and shiver, rueing the decision not to pack an extra sweater after all. (111 km / 69 miles NW of Košice (97 min) Stratená, Dobšinská ľadová jaskyňa  www.ssj.sk  +421 (0)58 788-1470 May 15-Sep 30 (Tue-Sun) € 7) Podlesok SucháBeláVeľký Sokol Havrania skala 1,154 Dedink Palcmans Maša StratenáDobšinská ľadová jaskyňa (ice cave) R4PalcmanskáMaša,Dedinky,Mlynky Palcmanská Maša, a water-reservoir near the villages of Dedinky and Mlynky is the next obvious stopping point for visitors. It is a perfect area for cycling, hiking, water sports and sometimes for swimming. During the winter, Ski Resort Mlynky (www.skimlynky.sk) offers downhill and cross-country skiing. R3 R2 Photo:MichalRengevičPhoto:JanaVašašová

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R1 Tomášovský výhľad (view) One of the most popular places in the park is the Tomášovský výhľad, including a 65- metre-high rock open for climbing. It also offers an excellent view of the High Tatras on clear days. northern slovakia - slovenský raj (slovak Paradise) 141 The trails are mostly well-worn and plainly signposted: you select your route from a board at the starting point, then follow markings on the trees to remain on course. It’s worth noting that reaching some of the most spectacular sights – the iconic areas of long ladders beside the tallest waterfalls, for instance – often requires several hours walking from the nearest car park or bus stop. It can also be dangerous, sometimes requiring focused clambering up 100-metre long ladders over boulder-strewn streams. You need to plan ahead and be prepared. With this in mind, it’s worth investing in a more detailed book of routes and maps to the entire national park, available from the information centres dotted across the region. The northern route to Slovenský raj offers several hiking trails. Cars can be left at the manned car parks or auto-camps, like Čingov or Podlesok, open year round. The tourist centre at Podlesok, along the Suchá Belá gorge, is one ideal starting point for exploration. Right from the beginning, the walking path is part of the brook bed, making the trip even more adventurous when there is a lot of water. However, splashing through the icy shallows is not necessary thanks to well designed facilities that lead hikers safely over the savage river and through droning waterfalls. After emerging from the wild gorge, hikers are usually tempted to visit the heart of Slovenský raj, called Kláštorisko. A pleasant meadow, a restaurant, the freely accessible ruins of a Carthusian monastery, and a symbolic cemetery for those who breathed their last in the area make it an ideal place for a short break before exploring the charms of the Prielom Hornádu Valley. This valley is an ideal alternative for those who prefer easy walks, but do not want to miss out on the adventure. This trail leads above the warbling river Hornád, along romantic rope bridges and into peaceful nooks where you can forget time and lose yourself in the beauty of nature. Why Paradise? Slovenský raj was named by the Carthusian monks who lived in a monastery on the Rock of Refuge (Lapis refugii), today’s Kláštorisko, from 1307 to 1543. Carthusian monks had sworn a vow of silence, dedicated to a contemplative life. The middle part of the monastery, known as the Garden of Eden, was reserved for their meditation. “Probably because of the silence and peace that the monks found here, they decided to call this place a paradise,” said František Divok, a researcher in the Slovak Paradise National Park. Horses in paradise Tourists can start discovering Slovak Paradise from Ranč u trapera (www. rancutrapera.sk) and Ranč pod Ostrou skalou (www.ranc-ladova.sk) on horseback. Veľký-KyseľMalý- Hrabušice rázc. Hrdlo Hornádu Suchý vrch 1,122 ky ská Hnilec Červená skala 1,109 Muráň 1,260 Mdevedia hlava 903 Mlynky Kláštorisko Spišské Tomášovce ČingovTomášovský výhľad Prielom Hornádu R4 R1 ©KartografieHP Photo:LukášVaršíkPhoto:courtesyofRančutrapera

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