Bratislava City Guide

Spectacular Slovakia Bratislava city guide Bratislava city guide top attractions in Bratislava pull-out map of city centre a 7-day city visit plan www.visitbratislava.com EN

CONVERSIONS Distances 1 km = 0.62 mile (km = mile / 0.62137) 1 mile = 1.61 km (mile = km x 0.62137) Temperature 0°C = 32°F (°C = (°F -32)/1.8) 32°F = 0°C (°F = °C x 1.8+32) Weight 1 kg = 2.2 lb (kg = lb/2.2046) 1 lb = 0.45 kg (lb = kg x 2.2046) KEy TO maIN SymbOlS  address Å phone walking distance from the Main Square (Hlavné námestie)  driving from the city centre (Hodžovo nám.) a open U religious service admission charge for adults ¯ live music é wheelchair access ä restaurant å café, bar e gift shop G museum  gallery ® theatre u public transport stop v public transport: numbers or times N page references for sites described in greater detail elsewhere in the guide information church, chapel, synagogue monument, statue, memorial hospital, polyclinic, pharmacy post office police parking, paid parking, garage tennis sport field cinema hotel fountain bus station train station airport port cemetery pedestrian zone gas station castle ruins stairs supermaket, market place railway highway 1st-class road 2nd-class road 3rd-class road border crossing P road number one-way road dead end W a must-see sight © 2016 The Rock, s.r.o. All rights reserved. Any reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited by the law. The authors of the articles published in this issue, represented by the publisher, reserve the right to give their approval for reproducing and public transmission of articles marked © The Slovak Spectator/ Spectacular Slovakia as well as for the public circulation of reproductions of these articles in compliance with the 33rd article and 1st paragraph of the Copyright Law. Media Monitoring is provided by Newton, IT, SMA and Slovakia Online with the approval of the publisher. Advertising material contained herein is the responsibility of the advertiser and is not written or implied sponsorship, endorsement or investigation of such commercial enterprises or ventures by The Slovak Spectator or The Rock, s.r.o., Address: The Rock, s.r.o. Lazaretská 12, 811 08 Bratislava.

Language Slovak is one branch in the Slavic language tree, and Slovaks will insist (we agree) that their language is the cleanest of them all. Re- gardless,it’satoughlanguage,lacedwithconjugationsandmyriadendings,dependingonthecasebeingused.Takeheart-moreand moreSlovaksspeakEnglish,Germanorboth.We’veincludedasmallguideforthosebravesoulswhowanttowrestlewiththelanguage Vowels Vowels can be either short (a, ä, e, i, o, u, y) or long (á, é, í, ó, ú, ý). Long vowels are simply empasized versions of their short coun- terparts. a short -a- asin“ah”yousaytoyourdentist,e.g.mapa (ma-pa) map á long -a- asinprolonged“ah”todentist,e.g.dáma (daaa-ma) lady ä -e- asinbed,e.g.mäso (me-so) meat e short -e- asinbet,e.g.teraz (te-raz) now é long -e- asinthere,e.g.prvé (pr-vee) first i short -i- asingraffiti,e.g.pivo (pi-vo) beer í long -i- asinneed,e.g.víno (veee-no) wine o -o- asinlog,e.g.okno (ok-no) window ó long -o-,likethe-a-intalk,e.g.móda (moh-da) fashion ô -uo-,like“whoa!”toahorse,e.g.môžem (mwhoa-zhem) Ican u short -u- asinshoot,e.g.ruka (ru-ka) hand ú long -oo- asinschool,e.g.údolie(ooo-doh-lye) valley y, ý thesameasfori, í The most useful Slovak phrases Select Glossary Numbers 0 nula 6 šesť 12 dvanásť 1 jeden 7 sedem 20 dvadsať 2 dva 8 osem 30 tridsať 3 tri 9 deväť 100 sto 4 štyri 10 desať 1,000 tisíc 5 päť 11 jedenásť 2,000 dvetisíc 199issaidasonehundredninety-nine,stodeväťdesiatdeväť,butwithout“and”. Theyear2011istwothousandeleven,dvetisícjedenásť. Basic phrases please thankyou goodmorning goodday/hello goodnight hi goodbye prosím ďakujem dobré ráno dobrý deň dobrú noc ahoj, čau (fam) dovidenia, čau cheers! yes/no excuseme/sorry bonappetit! you’rewelcome notatall! welcome! na zdravie! áno/nie prepáčte! dobrú chuť! prosím niet za čo! vitajte! dAysoFTHEWEEK Monday-pondelok Tuesday-utorok Wednesday-streda Thursday-štvrtok Friday-piatok Saturday-sobota Sunday-nedeľa Weekend–víkend Consonants The consonants b, d, f, g, l, m, n, s, v, and z are pronounced approximately as in English. Meanwhile, k, p, and t are like in English, but without aspiration. The “v” over some consonants softens them. Example: čo, pronounced choh, which means what. To compli- cate things, d, n, and t are usually softened when followed by e or i, becoming ď, ň or ť. Examples: deti (dye-tyee) children, neviem (nye-vyem) Idon’tknow. c -ts- asinoats,e.g.ocot (otsot) vinegar č -ch- asinchild,e.g.človek (chlo-vek) man,humanbeing ď -dy- asinduty,e.g.ďakujem (dyak-oo-yem) thankyou dz -ds- asinheads,e.g.medzi (me-dsi) between dž -j- asinjam,e.g.džús (juus) juice ch -ch- asintheScottishloch,e.g.chata (cha-ta) cottage j -y- asinyou,e.g.kraj(kray) region ľ -ly- asinlurid,e.g. ľad (lyad) ice ĺ longl(noEnglishequivalent)e.g. stĺp (stlllp) pole ň -ny- asinnews,e.g.deň (dyeny) day r rolledlikeaSpanishr,e.g.ryba (rrri-ba) fish ŕ longrolledr,e.g.mŕtvy (mrrrrrrrtvy) dead š -sh- asinshe,e.g.šesť (shesty) six ť -t- asintune,e.g.dosť (dost) enough w -v- asinvan(foundonlyinforeignwords),e.g.WC (ve-tse) WC ž like-s- inpleasure,e.g.žena (zhe-na) woman MoNTHs January-január February-február March-marec April-apríl May-máj June-jún July-júl August-august September-september October-október November-november December–december

Excuseme,doyouspeakEnglish? Prepáčte,hovorítepoanglicky? Doyouunderstand? Rozumiete? Idon’tunderstand. Nerozumiem. Idon’tunderstandSlovak. Nerozumiemposlovensky. Pleasewriteitdownforme. Napíštemitoprosím. Ibegyourpardon? Prosím? Whereis...? Kdeje...? Couldyouhelpme? Mohlibystemipomôcť? Whatdoes....mean? Čoznamená....? Howmuchisit? Koľkotostojí? Whatisyourname? Akosavoláte? MynameisXX. VolámsaXX. Nicetomeetyou. Tešíma. Howareyou? Akosamáte?(máš) Takecare! Majtesadobre! Isthereaphoneboothnearhere? Jetuniekdetelefónnabúdka? Whereisthebathroom? Kdejetoaleta(WC)? Whattimeisit? Koľkojehodín? Doyouhaveanyvacancies? Mátevoľnéizby? Whereismyluggage? Kdejemojabatožina? Wouldyoucallataxiforme,please? Zavolátemiprosímtaxík? Howfarisitto..........? Akoďalekojetodo..........? Canyoutelluswhentogetoff? Prosím,kdemámevystúpiť? Whatisthefare? Koľkostojílístok? Usefulphrasesatarestaurant DoyouhaveanEnglishmenu? Mátejedálnylístokvangličtine? Thebill,please. Prosím,zaplatím. Maywehave............ Môžemepoprosiť.......... Abottleofredwine. Jednufľašučervenéhovína. Abeer. Jednopivo. Anotherbeer. Eštejednopivo. Weareinahurry. Ponáhľamesa. Food ANd dRiNK NáPoJE dRiNKs pivo beer červenévíno redwine bielevíno whitewine minerálnavoda mineralwater čistávoda tapwater jablkovýdžús applejuice pomarančovýdžús orangejuice káva coffee čaj tea JEdálNylísToK MENU predjedlo appetizers PoliEVKy: soUPs: zemiaková potato šošovicová lentil hovädzia beef hrachová pea slepačia chicken paradajková tomato zeleninová vegetable HlAVNéJEdlo MAiNCoURsE mäso meat šunka ham čevabčiči spicedmeatballs hovädzie beef pečienka liver kačica duck klobásy sausages kuracie chicken saláma salami slanina bacon teľacie veal bravčové pork morčacie turkey RyBy FisH kapor carp makrela mackerel pstruh trout treska cod ZElENiNA VEgETABlEs zemiaky potatoes cibuľa onion cesnak garlic huby mushrooms hrach pea karfiol cauliflower paradajka tomato špenát spinach kapusta cabbage paprika pepper šalát salad oVoCiE FRUiTs banán banana broskyňa peach citrón lemon hrozno grapes hruška pear jablko apple marhuľa apricot pomaranč orange čerešne cherry iNé EXTRAs ryža rice opekanézemiaky roastedpotatoes varenézemiaky boiledpotatoes hranolky chips(British),Frenchfries(US) chlieb bread pečivo breadroll maslo butter syr cheese džem jam vajce egg niva softbluecheese oštiepok smokedcurd tvaroh curdcheese soľ salt korenie pepper(spice) horčica mustard arašídy peanuts vyprážaný fried zapečená baked zmrzlina icecream

CONTENTS How to use this guide 2 Seven days in the city 4 History 6 Sight by sight Historical centre 10 Walking distance 29 Around the city 36 Feature section Changes 41 Coronation city 44 Personalities 46 Legends 48 Museums, galleries and theatres 50 Best deals 53 For 100 Euros 54 Night life 56 Shopping and the modern city 58 Under communism 60 Religion 62 Nations 64 Bird’s eye view 67 Extreme sports 68 The Danube 70 Parks, gardens, lakes 72 The unusual 74 Dining 76 Cafés 78 Wine 80 Luxury 82 Family 84 Without barriers 86 Running 87 Outside the city 89 Cycling 96 Hiking 98 Beyond the region 100 Basics for tourists Language (inside front cover) Travellers’ needs 102 Guide to prices 105 Slovak cuisine 106 Souvenirs 108 Events 108 Index Index 110 Street finder 112 Maps (inside back cover) Pull-out map Regional map City map The piano of Johann Nepomuk Hummel The annual coronation ceremony St Martin‘s Cathedral

2 bratislava: How to use this guide How to use this guide This page is designed to help you navigate the Bratislava City Guide.For this edition,we have selected a list of the top sights in Bratislava that you should make sure you visit.You can find the list on page 3.The guide comprises five parts: 1.Sight by sight section (pages 10-39) Practical information and useful contact details related to selected sights in Bratislava a.Bratislava: Historical centre (pages 10-28) b.Bratislava: Within walking distance (pages 29-35) c.Bratislava:Around the city (pages 36-39) 2.Feature section (pages 40-101) a.Articles covering 23 different travel topics and useful contact details related to the sites covered in individual stories (pages 40-87) b.Articles focusing on the region surrounding Bratislava,with practical information and contact details for the sites covered in individual stories (pages 88-101) 3.Basics for tourists Basic information about Bratislava and Slovakia,and practical advice for travellers (pages 4-9,102-109 and inside front cover) 4.Index (pages 110-112) Index of all the places mentioned in the guide (pages 110-111) as well as a street finder 5.Maps (inside back cover) a.Pull-out map Detailed map of the city centre as well as public transport in the city,with practical information related to transport b.Regional map c.City map A detailed list of contents can be found on page 1. Feature page The guide has more than 60 feature pages, covering 23 different traveller topics and including useful contact details related to the sites covered in individual stories. Feature article about the site(s) in question, with title. Sidebar with practical information and useful contact details related to the site covered in the individual story. Each site in the guide has its own reference number, which may be displayed in two different ways. A map related to the article, with reference numbers for selected sites connected to the topic. Sites not referred to on other pages are described directly on the page. Map references refer to the pull-out map. Walking distances are from the Main Square (Hlavné námestie). Driving details are from the city centre (Hodžovo nám.). The name of the closest public transport stop. Numbers of public transport services that operate from the closest stop. Ticket prices are for adults. Page references are given for sites described in greater detail elsewhere in the guide.

bratislava: How to use this guide / TOP SIGHTS 3 Sight by sight page This page offers short profiles with useful information on selected sights in Bratislava. Practical information and contact details for featured places in the city. Short description of each place. Each site in the guide has its own reference number, which may be displayed in two different ways. A map related to the relevant part of the city, with reference numbers for selected sights. Map references refer to the pull-out map. Walking distances are from the Main Square (Hlavné námestie). Driving details are from the city centre (Hodžovo nám.). The name of the closest public transport stop. Numbers of public transport services that operate from the closest stop. Ticket prices are for adults. 3 Slovak National Gallery, map C 4 N page: 12, 50-52, 53 8 Slovak National Theatre - Historical building, map C 3 N page: 13, 50-52, 82-83 14 Old Town Hall (museum), map C 3 (c 4) N page: 16, 50-52, 53, 67, 80-81 16 Primate’s Palace (museum), map C 3 (c 4) N page: 17, 64-66 18 Nedbalka Gallery, map C 3 (c 4) N page: 15, 50-52 25 Franciscan Church, map C 3 (c 2) N page: 19, 44-45 27 Michael’s Gate (museum), map C 3 (c 1) N page: 20, 48-49, 67 35 Pálffy Palace (gallery), map C 3 (c 3) N page: 22, 50-52, 64-66 38 St Martin’s Cathedral, map C 3 (c 3) N page: 24-25, 44-45, 62--66 42 Bratislava Castle, map B 3 N page: 26-27, 48-49, 53, 54-55, 64-66, 84-85 48 Chatam Sófer Memorial, map A 3 N page: 29, 62-63, 64-66 51 Most SNP (bridge), map B,C 4 N page: 30, 41-43, 60-61, 67, 70-71, 82-83 56 Eurovea (river-front district), map E 4 N page: 30, 53, 54-55, 58-59, 70-71 58 Blue Church, map D 3 N page: 31, 54-55 77 Slavín(memorial), map B 1 N page: 34, 54-55, 60-61, 64-66, 67 80b Volkswagen (car plant) N page: 37 81 Devín Castle N page: 37, 60-61, 64-66 99 Danubiana Meulensteen Art Museum N page: 39, 50-52, 53, 54-55, 70-71 58 77 35 27 18 16 25 14 56 51 48 81 99 42 38 Top sights in Bratislava 8 3 80b

4 bratislava: Seven days in the city Seven days in the city Bratislava is an ideal city-break destination,it offers some of the most diverse sites in a single city.Even though the historical centre is much smaller than those of nearby capitals like Vienna and Budapest.The other options mean that even travellers here for an extended stay can be kept busy for far longer than just the usual two-day break. Here’s a programme arranged by the authors of this guide for seven days in Bratislava,whichyou are of course free to re-arrange asyou see fit. Day 1 - OldTown Almost all of Bratislava’s OldTown rewards in-depth exploration and even just wandering the city streets can be a richly rewarding experience. However,an idea for a more formal path is mapped out on pages 10-11, starting on the banks of the Danube at the Slovak National Gallery (SNG) and then heading into the narrow, winding streets. Morning: Hop on the Oldtimer XL or Blaváčik tourist trains (N page: 13),which offer extended tours of the historical centre,and a ride to Bratislava Castle.Then switch to art byvisiting the SNG (N page: 12).Your next stop could be the OldTown Hall complex (N page: 16),which includes museums and an overview of Bratislava from its tower,before heading to the Nedbalka Gallery (N page: 15) for more wonderful art.Pick up a quick lunch of soup,sandwiches or salad at any location of the Štúr,Foxford and Urban House cafés which are close to the city centre. (N page: 78-79). Afternoon: Walk off lunch by climbing up the castle hill (N page: 26-27),which can be approached from several directions.On the way back from the castle,pop in to St Martin’s Cathedral (N page: 24-25) and explore its interior and crypts. Before dinner at Skybar (N page: 67), head to the Pálffy Palace (N page: 22),a branch of the city art gallery. After dinner with a magnificent view over the streets you have now explored,the last hours of your busy day could be devoted to music at the Slovak NationalTheatre (N page: 13). Day 2 - Communism (Contact details for the sites mentioned N page: 60-61) Morning: For a taste of the way it used to be in Bratislava,start your day in the way most families started it under communism: going to the roofed marketplace atTrnavské mýto or the Miletička open-air market.Here you will experience an altogether more authentic hustle and bustle,as well as a variety of products at local prices.FromTrnavské mýto you can then take a walk towards Kamenné námestie (Square) in the city centre.TheTesco building here dates from the 1970s,and housed the main Prior supermarket under the previous regime.(On your way, you can see two majestic stone lions which once guarded the headquarters of the communist-era ŠtB secret police force on 14 Špitálska street.) FromTesco cross the street to SNP Square and continue uphill toward the underpass which will lead to the Hodžovo nám.(Sq.).From there take a 203 trolleybus to the Slavín memorial to the fallen soldiers of the Red Army,which also offers an amazing view over the city.Then walk back to Námestie slobody (Square of Freedom) where you can have a quick lunch at the Savage Garden restaurant. Afternoon: Head to Petržalka,and Hřbitov in particular,which is one of the many bunkers left here from the Second World War.Assuming the weather is good,you can take a swim at the Veľký Draždiak lake,in another part of Petržalka.It is also possible to recall the previous era at escape room Brainteaselava located on Obchodná street.Before sunset head up to the pod at the top of the SNP Bridge,which houses the UFO restaurant and offers one of the best views in the city.If you feel like going out,Subclub,one of the most vibrant nightclubs in the region,is housed in a former bomb shelter. Several of these activities are part of post-socialist city tours. Day 3 -Along the Danube Morning: Take a lovely morning walk from the Old Bridge through the Sad Janka Kráľa park (N page: 72-73) to the SNP Bridge. After crossing the river there,you can take a boat from the city port to Old Town Hall Most SNP (bridge) Sad Janka Kráľa (park)

bratislava: Seven days in the city 5 Devín (N page: 37),which will get you close enough to the Danube to touch it.After enjoying the castle and the surrounding area, take the bus back to River Park (N page: 58-59),where you can have a quick lunch at one of the riverside cafés. Afternoon: The Chatam Sófer memorial (N page: 29) is close by, from where you can then take a walk to the SNP Bridge.Hop on a bus to the Danubiana Museum of Modern Art (N page: 39),a 30-minute walk along the dam from Čunovo.Čunovo also offers white-water sporting opportunities in the Divokávoda area (N page: 68-69).Water attractions like river cruises,speedboats or water scooters are available also closer to the city centre (N page: 68-69); after returning to the city,you can end your day at the Eurovea (N page: 58- 59) river front area for dinner. Day 4 - New experiences Pick anything from the article on pages 74-75 and know that the experiences offered inAlternative Bratislava will set you apart from 99 percent of the tourists who visit the city. Day 5 -Wine (Contact details for the sites mentioned N page: 80-81,90) Morning: Before you booze away the afternoon and evening,why not learn something about Slovakia’s rich wine-making traditions in the Museum of Viticulture in the Old Town Hall complex (N page: 16) with several wine tasting programmes. Remember booking is necessary. Taste also local popular variety Blaufränkisch (Frankovka modrá) from Rača district or currant wine from Devín. Even better, find a designated driver in your travel party and then get them to drive you to some of the numerous wine cellars nearby,which offer wine tasting throughout the year.The best stops are Svätý Jur, Pezinok and Modra, which are also accessible by local buses. In Pezinok and Modra you can even try to make your own pottery (N page: 94) and then have lunch in one of several restaurants. Afternoon: More wine can be found at Elesko,a vineyard and gallery close to Modra.You might want to drop in on Červený Kameň Castle (N page: 89) for a break from all the boozing,and check out the castle’s magnificent cellars to cool off.If you still need something to soak up the alcohol,head to Slovenský Grob (N page: 76-77) for a goose feast (and,of course,more wine). Day 6 - Stay active Think holidays are about lazing around by the pool all day? Forget it. Head to the Malý Dunaj inland waterway (N page: 71) for some rafting, any of the three golf courses (N page: 105) close to the city centre, or just head off hiking (N page: 98- 99) or cycling (N page: 96-97) in the surrounding countryside. Day 7 - Shopping Morning: Your last day is a good time to get some presents for your friends and family by visiting many of the souvenir shops in the Old Town. If you are a fan of folk art, head to the outlets of ÚĽUV, the original folk-art manufacturer,which has two outlets in the city centre. For something more contemporary, try Avion, the biggest shopping centre in Bratislava, close to the city’s airport. There is also a decent food court for some sustenance. Afternoon: Further shopping options can be found in Eurovea (located close to the city centre,N page: 30) or in Fresh Market which offers local food and products (N pages: 74-75).You can finish your day at another shopping centre, Central,which also has a swimming pool and wellness centre.Dinner is served at the Outlook Bar & Lounge, located on the 13th floor of the Lindner Hotel (N page: 67),which is part of the shopping centre. Note: For details of the main shopping centres in Bratislava see pages 58-59. Sandberg On Vápenná hill in the Small Carpathians

6 bratislava dates ANCIENT TIMES 2nd century BC – Celtic tribes establish a settlement on the territory of today’s Bratislava and mint coins here, including a golden coin with the inscription “Biatec”. 58AD – A Germanic tribe led by Burebista invades and defeats the Celts. 3rd century – Roman armies first visit the region, establishing several buildings including Devín, Dúbravka and a fortress that would eventually become Bratislava Castle. The town of Gerulata (in today’s Rusovce) grows up on the border between the Roman Empire and Germanic territories. Romans introduce wine- growing and viticulture. THE MIDDLE AGES 9th century – The territory becomes part of the so-called Samo’s Land, established by a Frankish tradesman Samo. It disintegrates after his death and in 836 the region becomes part of Great Moravia. 907 – The first written record of what is now Bratislava. According to the Salzburg Chronicles, old Hungarian tribes defeat Bavarian armies near the castle called Pressalauspurc. 11th century – Bratislava becomes part of the Hungarian Kingdom and inhabitants of the local castle mint silver coins with the image of first Hungarian King Stephen and the inscription Breslava Civitas. The town becomes the main economic and administrative centre located on the borders of the kingdom. 1042 – The German chronicler Herriman mentions a “densely populated town” under the castle called Brecisburg. The town is attacked and destroyed by German King Henrich I. 1073-1074 – The castle serves as a residence for Hungarian King Solomon, the first time a monarch occupies the building. 1096 – German Emperor Friedrich Barbarossa and his knights stop at the castle during their crusade to the Holy Land. 12th-14th century – Hungarian and Austrian aristocrats agree on a reciprocal deal to rule the town. 1140-1150 – The Arab merchant Al-Idrisi from Sicilia mentions in his documents a town located on the territory of today’s Bratislava, describing it as part of the Czech Kingdom. 1151 – First mention of the market place under the castle. 1204 – Hungarian King Emeric II receives permission from the pope to relocate the church from the castle, which at that time served as a fortress, to the settlement under the castle. 1221 – The canonry, in which important documents are written, verified and stored, is relocated from the castle to the new settlement. 1241 – Tartars raid the settlement. 1250 – The so-called Water Tower is built to protect the bridge across the Danube. 1287 – Austrian Duke Albert from Babenberg conquers the castle and occupies it until 1291. Bratislava becomes a typical mediaeval town surrounded by stone walls. Its inhabitants, mainly Germans invited to the town by the Hungarian king after being displaced by Tartars, enjoy the privileges granted to landowners. 1291 – Hungarian King Andrew III confers further privileges on Bratislava. 1311 – Chapel of St Catherine is consecrated. 1312 – The town, the castle and its surroundings are returned to the Hungarian King Charles Robert of Anjou. 1370 – Gothic funeral chapel built near the Franciscan monastery church 1387 – Under the rule of King Sigismund, son of Emperor Charles IV and husband of the Hungarian Queen Mary, Bratislava is included on the list of so- called “free royal towns”, based on the Small Decree issued in 1405. The town receives the right to mint silver coins in 1430 and in 1436 King Sigismund gives the town two documents that permit the town to use the seal with its coat of arms. Bratislava is the only European town that has two copies of this document, made by the Viennese painter Michal. Sigismund begins to build a residence inside the castle. 1389 – The town buys the building that later becomes the city hall. Photo: Courtesy of Galéria mesta Bratislavy Photo: Courtesy of Múzeum mesta Bratislavy Coronations in Bratislava started in 1563, when King Maximilian II and his consort, Mary of Spain, were crowned Chapel of St Catherine

1452 – A bishop from Esztergom consecrates the cathedral to St Martin. 1453 – The castle is turned into a residence for Hungarian King Ladislaus V, known as “Posthumous” because he was born after the death of his father. 1467 – Hungarian King Matthias Corvinus establishes Academia Istropolitana, the first university in Bratislava. The university closes in 1490-91. 1526 – After the Battle of Mohács, Ottomans occupy the territories of today’s Hungary, including the capital Buda and the main religious centre in Esztergom. Bratislava, then called Pressburg (or Pozsony or Prešporok in Slovak), becomes the capital of the Hungarian Kingdom in 1563. 1531 – Inhabitants of Bratislava expel Jews from the town, blaming them for the lost battle with the Ottomans. 1590 – An earthquake damages the tower of the town hall and destroys the vault over the nave of the Franciscan church. 1605-06 – Town is occupied by rebels led by István Bocskai, a duke from Transylvania. In 1606, after the rebels signed the Vienna Peace Treaty, Protestants living in Bratislava establish the Evangelical Lyceum, which still serves as school. 1638 – Construction of the first Evangelical Church in Bratislava is finished, but in 1672 King Leopold II takes the church away from the Protestants and gives it to the Jesuits and the Ursuline nuns. The church is now the property of the Jesuits, and it is called the Church of the Holy Saviour. 1679 – The plague epidemic sweeps through Bratislava, dramatically decreasing the population of the city. 18th century – Period of great prosperity for Bratislava as the most important town in the Hungarian Kingdom. The aristocracy builds countless palaces, churches, monasteries, etc; the territory of the castle expands; new streets are established; Hungarian parliament presides from Bratislava and the city’s population grows four-fold. 1712 – Bratislava is stricken by cholera, resulting in hundreds of deaths. The column of the Holy Trinity is erected on Rybné Square in memory of the dead. 1740-80 – Maria Theresa oversees a period of intense growth in Bratislava, which includes the construction of several governmental buildings, new palaces and a sewer system. The castle becomes the royal residence. The whole town becomes the centre of social and political life, ending only with Maria Theresa’s death and the decision of her successor Joseph II to turn Bratislava back into a provincial town. 1781 – The residence of the Bishop of Esztergom is built in the city centre. 1773-75 – The oldest publicly accessible park in Europe opens on the banks of the Danube. Today it is called Sad Janka Kráľa in Petržalka. 1774-76 – The first theatre is built near Rybná Gate. bratislava dates 7 Photo: Courtesy of Galéria mesta Bratislavy Photo: Courtesy of Múzeum mesta Bratislavy Bratislava as it appeared in 1655 during the coronation of Leopold I, and the ceremony on the coronation mound Maria Theresa

8 bratislava dates 19th century – Bratislava endures a slump in its fortunes including, in the second half of the century, the Hungarian capital returning to Pest after the Ottomans retreat from central Europe. 1805 – France and Austria sign the Peace of Pressburg in the Mirror Hall of the Primate’s Palace in Bratislava at the end of the war near Slavkov, also known as Austerlitz. 1809 – Napoleonic armies bombard the town and destroy the southern part of the castle. Another fire, in 1811, destroys the royal palace and part of the area under the castle, especially the Jewish settlements. 1818 – The Steamboat Carolina starts to run between Bratislava and Vienna. 1847 – A model of the Hungarian royal crown is placed on the top of the tower of St Martin’s Cathedral. The first lightning conductor in the town is also installed at the same time. 1848 – The last meeting of representatives of the Hungarian social classes, attended by key political figures including Ľudovít Štúr, one of the codifiers of the Slovak language. Emperor Ferdinand V visits Bratislava for the last time in April and signs the so-called “March Laws” in the Mirror Hall of the Primate’s Palace. After the end of the meeting, Pest becomes the official capital of the Hungarian Kindgom. 1848 – Steam trains start to run between Vienna and Bratislava. 1867 – The town buys the palace of Earl Apponyi and turns it into the new town hall. The old town hall becomes the city museum, making it one of the oldest museums in central Europe. 1886 – The new city theatre – today the historical building of the Slovak National Theatre – opens in Hviezdoslavovo Square. 1895 – First trams run in Bratislava. 20th century – The century begins with Bratislava in good economic shape, building several new buildings including the Church of St Elizabeth (or so-called Blue Church), the former Military Headquarters, which now serves as a Faculty of Philosophy of Comenius University, as well as the building of Reduta located near Hviezdoslavovo Square. Massive political turmoil throughout the century, however, changes the city beyond all measure. 1914 – The Pressburger Bahn, the first electric railway between Vienna and Bratislava, opens. November 1918 – March 1919 – Bratislava becomes known as Wilson’s Town, after the then US President Woodrow Wilson. 1919 – According to the Treaty of Versailles at the end of the First World War, Bratislava becomes part of Czechoslovakia, but will be the residence for the Ministry with Full Power for Administration of Slovakia, led by a regional president. The town adopts Bratislava as its name for the first time and becomes the new capital of Slovakia. Comenius University is founded. 1921 – First running of the national Devín- Bratislava run. 1939 – Bratislava becomes the capital of the Nazi satellite Slovak state, led by president Jozef Tiso. 1943 – The borough of Karlova Ves is officially attached to Bratislava, the first official inclusion to the city. 1944-45 – Bratislava is bombarded during the Second World War, causing significant damage to the city. The Red Army liberates Bratislava on April 4, 1945. Retreating German armies destroy the only bridge over the Danube. 1946 – Seven neighbouring villages are attached to Bratislava, significantly increasing the population. 1947 – Former president Jozef Tiso is executed in Bratislava. 1947-48 – Hundreds of new flats are built in the city. The new borough between Rača and the city centre, Krasňany, is established. Photo: Courtesy of Galéria mesta Bratislavy Photo: Courtesy of Galéria mesta Bratislavy Photo: Courtesy of Múzeum mesta Bratislavy Františkánske nám. (square) in 1830, with crowds waving to Ferdinand V, the last monarch to be crowned in Bratislava

bratislava dates 9 1948-89 – The communist era begins in Bratislava and across the so-called Eastern Bloc. 1950s – Hundreds of families of alleged enemies of the communist regime are moved from Bratislava, during the so-called “Action B”. Families are subsequently replaced by supporters of the regime. 1953-68 – Reconstruction of the ruins of Bratislava Castle begins. 1968 – Soviets occupy the city, destroying archaeological remains of the Great Moravian church in Bratislava Castle. 1968 – Czechoslovakia officially becomes a federation after a meeting and document signing at Bratislava Castle. 1960s – The city borough of Petržalka is established. 1972 – A further seven villages are attached to Bratislava, from south of the Danube and from the Záhorie region. Bratislava grows into its present day form. 1973 – The SNP Bridge and Port Bridge open, the latter originally called the Bridge of Dukla Heroes. 1988 – Thousands of people pour onto the streets of Bratislava for a candlelit demonstration against the oppression of human and religious freedom by the communist regime. The regime responds by sending state police units into the streets armed with water cannons. 1989 – The Velvet Revolution takes place, which, among other things, contributes to the fall of communism in Slovakia. 1990 – John Paul II visits Bratislava for the first time. 1992 – Lafranconi Bridge opens. 1993 – Bratislava becomes the capital of the newly-established Slovak Republic. The residence of the Slovak president is moved to Grassalkovich Palace. 2000 – The new National Bank of Slovakia building is finished. 2004 – Slovakia joins the European Union. 2005 – Bratislava hosts a summit between former US President George W Bush and Russian President Vladimir Putin. 2005 – Apollo Bridge opens. Photo: Courtesy of Múzeum mesta Bratislavy Building of the Slovak National Bank Photo: TASR Photo: Courtesy of Múzeum mesta Bratislavy A huge demonstration on SNP nám. (square) during the Velvet Revolutionin 1989 Construction of the SNP Bridge, with the emerging landscape of present-day Petržalka behind it 2007 – The new building of the Slovak National Theatre opens. 2016 – Bratislava hosts the presidency of the Council of the EU.

1 Port, D 4 (pg 70-71) 2 Slovak National Museum, map D 4 (pg 12, 50-52, 53, 84-85) 3 Slovak National Gallery W, map C 4 (pg 12, 50-52, 53) 4 Reduta (Slovak Philharmonic Orchestra), map C 4 (pg 12, 50-52, 64-66) 5 Carlton Hotel, map C 4 (pg 12) 6 Church of Virgin Mary’s Assumption, Notre Dame, map C 4 (pg 13) 7 Prešporáčik & Blaváčik (Bratislava tourist trains), map C 4 (pg 13) 8 Slovak National Theatre - Historical building W, map C 3 (c 4) (pg 13, 50-52, 82-83) 9 Hviezdoslavovo nám. (square), map C 4,3 (c 4) (pg 14, 64-66, 108-109) 10 Rubberneck (statue), map C 3 (c 4) (pg 14) 11 Schöner Náci (statue), map C 3 (c 4) (pg 14, 46-47) 12 Main Square (Hlavné nám.), map C 3 (c 4) (pg 14, 44-45, 48-49, 108-109) 13 Napoleonic soldier (statue), map C 3 (c 4) (pg 15, 64-66) 14 Old Town Hall (museum) W, map C 3 (c 4) (pg 16, 50-52, 53, 67, 80-81) 15 Church of the Holy Saviour - Jesuit Church, map C 3 (c 4) (pg 15) 16 Primate’s Palace (museum) W, map C 3 (c 4) (pg 17, 64-66) 17 Tourist Information Centre, C 3 (c 4) (pg 53, 105) 18 Nedbalka Gallery W, map C 3 (c 4) (pg 15, 50-52) 19 Old Market Hall, map D 3 (pg 18) 20 Manderla’s house, map D 3 (pg 18) 21 Church of the Merciful Brothers, map C 3 (c 2) (pg 18) 22 Church of Clerical Congregation of the Reformed Christian Church, map C 3 (c 2) (pg 18) 23 KC Dunaj (Centre of culture), C 3 (c 2) (pg 56-57) 24 Ursuline Church and Convent, map C 3 (c 2) (pg 19) 35 38 39 41 40 34 13 26 27 31 28 32 33 36 Bratislava historical centre 37

Obchodná 17 min Primaciálne nám. Zámocká Zelená Hurbanovo nám. Klariská Michalská Prepoštolská Františ.nám. Farská Riečna Gorkého Zámočnícka Jesenského Paulínyho Vajanského nábrežie Kúpeľná Uršulínska Štúrova Škarniclova Klobučnícka Zochova Palisády Sedlárska Veterná Bradlianska Svoradova Kamenné nám. Panská Strakova Nám. SNP Rybné nám. Panská Ventúrska Kozia Hviezdoslavovonámestie Rudnayovo nám. Fajnorovo nábr. Rigeleho Heydukova Františkánska Navŕšku Kapitulská Biela Most SNP Kolárska Poštová Staromestská Jedlíkova Rybárskabr. Dvořákovo nábrežie Rázusovo nábrežie Palackého Laurinská Mostová Tobrucká Drevená Hlavné nám. Radničná Baštová Nedbalova Župné nám. Medená Staromestská Staromestská Medená Nedbalova Zámocká Podjavorinskej Vodnývrch Žižkova Pilárikova Židovská Židovská Mikulášska Beblavého Konventná Suché mýto  19min 8 9 14 15 25 12 10 11 N 42 3 4 8 10 14 16 18 13 15 35 39 40 38 45 25 27 26 25 Franciscan Church of Lord’s Annunciation, map C 3 (c 2) (pg 19, 44-45) 26 Mirbach Palace (gallery), map C 3 (c 2) (pg 20, 50-52) 27 Michael’s Gate (museum) W, map C 3 (c 1) (pg 20, 48-49, 67) 28 Red Crayfish Pharmacy (museum), map C 3 (c 1) (pg 20) 29 Church of St John of Matha, map C 3 (c 1) (pg 20, 64-66) 30 Church of St Stephen, map C 3 (c 1) (pg 21) 31 St Catherine’s Chapel, map C 3 (c 1) (pg 21) 32 University Library, map C 3 (c 1) (pg 21) 33 Zichy Palace (gallery), map C 3 (c 3) (pg 22) 34 Academia Istropolitana, map C 3 (c 3) (pg 22) 35 Pálffy Palace (gallery) W, map C 3 (c 3) (pg 22, 50-52, 64-66) 36 Erdödy Palace (privat gallery), map C 3 (c 3) (pg 22) 37 Bibiana (children‘s centre), C 4 (pg 84-85) 38 St Martin’s Cathedral W, map C 3 (c 3) (pg 24-25, 44-45, 62-63, 64-66) 39 City walls, map C 3 (c 3) (pg 22) 40 Kapitulská Street, map C 3 (c 3) (pg 23) 41 Church of the Clarisses, map C 3 (c 3) (pg 23) 42 Bratislava Castle W, map B 3 (pg 26-27, 48-49, 53, 54-55, 64-66, 84-85) 43 Museum of Jewish Culture, B 3 (pg 50-52, 53, 64-66) 44 Podhradie (settlement below the castle), map B,C 3 (c 1, c 3) (pg 28) 45 House of the Good Shepherd (museum), map C 3 (c 3) (pg 28) 46 Subclub (music club), B 4 (pg 56-57, 60-61) 47 Zuckermandel (church and museums), map B 4 (pg 28, 64-66, 53) 31 47 24 23 11 12 9 7 6 5 2 20 19 17 21 22 36 37 34 33 32 44 41 30 29 28 43 46 1

12 bratislava: Historical Centre 1 Port  pages 70-71 2 Slovenské národné múzeum (Slovak National Museum)  Vajanského nábr. 2; map D 4  0.65 km (8 min) Å +421 (0)2 2046-9122 G www.snm.sk a Sep-Jun: Tue-Sun 9:00-16:30; Jul-Aug: Tue-Sun 10:00-17:30 €4 é e WC This building on the banks of the Danube was designed and built between 1925-27 by the Slovak architect Milan Michal Harminc. It was originally intended to house a branch of the Czechoslovak Museum of Agriculture, but became home to the Slovak National Museum (SNM), established in 1961. Nowadays this monumental edifice,which is one of only a handful of well-preserved examples of the official architecture of the 1920s in Slovakia, holds the management of the SNM and the Natural History Museum.The SNM also uses its exhibition premises for temporary exhibitions. The buildingwas badlydamaged during the Second World War and its roof had to be rebuilt.However, the monumental tympanum,which originally contained a relief with a ploughman with a horse,remains empty. 3 Slovenská národná galéria W (Slovak National Gallery)  Nám. Ľ. Štúra 4; map C 4  0.45 km (5 min) Å +421 (0)2 2047-6111  www.sng.sk a Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00 Thu 12:00-20:00 €3.50 (free entry in 2016) e é WC The Slovak National Gallery (SNG) is the most important art museum in Slovakia, managing around 60,000 exhibits. Its main Bratislava site comprises a complex of three buildings: the historical, baroque, Vodné kasárne (Water Barracks), the neo-Renaissance-style Eszterházy Palace, and the modern extension by the Slovak architect Vladimír Dedeček. Opinions over the latter wing are divided,with some architecture experts praising it as an example of excellent modern and functionalistic architecture,while others condemn it for damaging the harmony of the historical setting. The Water Barracks and the extension known as “bridging”, facing the Danube River embankment,are currently closed. The reconstruction of the premises started in autumn 2014.The SNG promises that after reconstruction the premises will include a world class art venue.In the meantime, the gallery’s options for displaying masterworks from its collection and travelling exhibitions are limited to the Eszterházy Palace. 4 Reduta  Nám. E. Suchoňa 1; map C 4  0.45 km (5 min) Å +421 (0)2 2047-5233 ¯ www.filharmonia.sk a for performances from €6 å é WC Bratislava’s Reduta was designed by the Hungarian architects Dezső Jakab and Marcell Komor and built on the site of a former granary from the 18th century. Construction started in 1911 but was complicated by the outbreak of the First World War.The building was fully completed some years later, and the organ was installed only in 1956.The Reduta was a place for entertainment, shows,art performances and meetings,and for manyyears there was a cinema Reduta,restaurant,a bookshop and a casino.The building belonged to the city and after the Second World War was assigned to the Slovak Philharmonic Orchestra. Concerts,balls and other social events continue to be held in the Reduta to the present day. In 2013 the building underwent extensive reconstruction and included the acquisition of a new organ by Orgelbau GmbH fromAustria,whose instruments can also be found in the Vienna Stephansdome and in the concert hall of the Paris Conservatory. The courtyard formerly used for parking was roofed and now provides another concert space, while the bronze decoration on the stuccos was replaced by gold, as per the original plans.A lack of money during the inter-war years had meant the cheaper metal was originally used. 5 Carlton Hotel  Hviezdoslavovo nám. 3; map C 4  0.35 km (4 min) Å +421 (0)2 5939-0500 www.carlton.sk www.radissonblu.com/hotel-bratislava ä e é WC Ever since the 13th century,visitors to what is now Bratislava have stopped on the site of the present- day Radisson Blu Carlton Hotel in the heart of the city.Originally a basic inn,it became a hotel named “AtThree GreenTrees” in 1760,and was further extended under the ownership of Johann Löwy,the director of the first railway line between Bratislava andTrnava,who bought it in 1838. He rebuilt the original one-storey structure according to the design of the architect Ignác Feigler Jr., transforming it into a three-storey building with a classicistic façade. Later it was further extended to encompass neighbouring buildings and became the Savoy-Carlton hotel complex. The name Carlton was an amalgamation of its mid 19th- century owners’ names: “Carl” from

bratislava: Historical Centre 13 the wine merchant Karol Palugyay, and “ton” from his wifeAntónia. From 1905,one of Slovakia’s first cinemas,“Elektrobioscop”,was housed in the hotel.After the fall of the communist regime,the hotel underwent extensive reconstruction and reopened in 2001 as one of the most luxurious hotels in Bratislava. Part of the hotel complex is also the Savoy restaurant with recipes following the culinary tradition of Bratislava. 6 Kostol Nanebovzatia Panny Márie,Notre Dame (Church ofVirgin Mary’s Assumption, Notre Dame)  Palackého 1; map C 4  0.3 km (3 min) Å +421 (0)2 5443-2846a7:30-17:30 (entrance hall) U Mon-Sat 16:30 Sun 10:30 voluntary What constitutes the Church of the Virgin Mary’sAssumption todaywas actually only planned to be the presbytery of a much larger single-nave church,which in turn was intended as the final part of a four-winged cloister of the Canons Regular of SaintAugustine.The construction was thwarted by the unexpected death in the mid-18th century of Countess O’Neille, who was providing the finances. Only the presbyterywas completed and it was therefore adapted into a church with a wooden tower,which hosted its first holy mass onAugust 28,1760.Nowadays the cloister houses the Elementary School of MotherAlexia and the Gymnasium of MotherAlexia. The church is notable for its ceiling fresco by the baroque painter PaulTroger. 7 Prešporáčik & Blaváčik (Bratislava TouristTrains)  (Prešporáčik) Nám. E. Suchoňa; map C 4  (Prešporačik XL) Hlavné nám.; map C 3 (c 4)  (Blaváčik) Fajnorovo nábrežie (in front of Slovak National Museum) ; map D 4 Å +421 (0)903 302-817 (Prešporáčik) Å +421 (0)2 5263-5697 (Blaváčik) www.tour4u.sk; www.blavacik.sk a Mar-Nov: Mon-Sun 9:00-17:00 from €8 é Bratislava tourist trains (Prešporačik and Blaváčik), have become some of the city’s best known symbols. Trains were created by companiesTour4U and Blue DanubeTour. Prešporáčik is the only vehicle allowed to drive through the most historic parts of the OldTown.It has a retractable roof,folding windows and an ecological engine,which propels it at a maximum speed of about five kilometres per hour. One standard tour lasts about 50 minutes.Its big brothers, Prešporačik XL and Blaváčik, travel faster up to Bratislava Castle,Devín Castle (tour is combined with boat trip) or to Bratislava Forest Park Železná studnička (ticket includes also ride by cablecar).All vehicles are equipped with audio guides about the many buildings the tours pass,available in several languages,including English and German. 8 Slovenské Národné Divadlo - Historická budova W (Slovak National Theatre – Historical building)  Hviezdoslavo nám. 1; map C 3 (c4)  0.25 km (3 min) Å +421 (0)2 2047-2293¯ ® www.snd.sk a Sep-Jun for performances from €4 éåWC The neo-Renaissance building of the Slovak NationalTheatre was designed by the Viennese duo of Ferdinand Fellner and Hermann Helmer,architects with more than 200 notable buildings to their names across Europe.The current construction dates from 1886 and replaced the city theatre which stood on the site since 1776.The building has undergone several reconstructions since then,usually to make it more functional and to meet contemporary demands, although a recent project also allowed for busts of significant cultural figures – Liszt, Shakespeare,Goethe,Katona, Mozart – to be returned to the niches on the façade. Nowadays the building is known as the historical building of the Slovak NationalTheatre and hosts performances of drama,opera and ballet as well as balls and other prominent events. Slovak National- Theatre – Historical building

14 bratislava: Historical Centre 9 Hviezdoslavovo námestie (square)  map C 4,3 (c 4)  0.23 km (3 min) ¯  ® ä å e The area now known as Hviezdoslavovo námestie (Hviezdoslav’s Square) is today one of the greenest parts in the city centre.However,some 200 years ago,a branch of the Danube flowed through this part of Bratislava, before a decree from MariaTheresa in 1781 ordered the river bed to be filled.The empress also ordered a citywall to be demolished,which she said was preventing the city’s growth.The river branch is now remembered by a long,rectangular fountain. The square has had numerous names throughout the years: the Promenade,Thearplatz,and in 1889 it was named after Lajos Kossúth,a Hungarian revolutionary.From 1932, however,it has carried the name of the Slovak poet Pavol Országh Hviezdoslav.The most prominent buildings in the square include the neo-Renaissance Slovak National Theatre and the US embassy,which is now heavily barricaded behind an ugly barbed fence. In the winter the square hosts the Christmas market and often an ice-rink. 10 Čumil (Rubberneck)  Rybárska brána/Panská; map C 3 (c 4)  0.1 km (1 min) The bronze statue of a man sticking his head out of a manhole – known as Čumil or “Rubberneck”– is among the most favourite and photographed sights in Bratislava.Designed byViktor Hulík in 1997,Čumil is located at the intersection of Laurinská,Panská streets and Rybárska brána.It is now accompanied by a sign reading “MANAT WORK” after several motorists drove into it. 11 SchöneR Náci  Rybárska brána; map C 3 (c 4)  0.11 km (1 min) The Schöner Náci statue comme- morates one of Bratislava’s unique characters: Ignác Lamár,who was born onAugust 12,1897 in Petržalka and became an unforgettable figure along the city streets thanks to his outfit and exceptionally good mann- ers.He died in Lehnice in October 1967 where he was originally buried before his remains were moved to a memorial grave in Bratislava’s Ond- rejský cemetery in 2007.The life-size statue is the work of Juraj Meliš and welcomes visitors to the Main Square in Bratislava’s OldTown. 12 Hlavné námestie (Main Square) map C 3 (c 4) ¯ G ä e Throughout Bratislava’s history, Hlavné námestie,the Main Square, has been the centre of all that was going on in the city,a fact that remains true today.It is an almost regular square,which began to develop between the 13th and 14th centuries,and all the houses flanking it date from the gothic era. Since the 14th century the Main Square has changed its name several times,from the Latin name Forum via the German Franz Joseph- Platz and Hungarian FőTér.After the First World War it was called Masaryk’s Square (after the first president of Czechoslovakia), then Hitler’s Square (during the period when the Slovak state was under German rule) and theApril 4 Square (during the 40 years of the communist regime).Throughout all eras,the square has mainly been known as a marketplace and still hosts festivals,concerts,outdoor events and ceremonies including Bratislava’s famous Christmas and Easter markets.Visitors can find vendors selling crafts and souvenirs throughout the whole year. Among the most important landmarks of the Main Square are the Old Town Hall and the Maximilian Fountain.The Old Town Hall was not originally constructed for such a purpose, and consists of several buildings: Jacobus’ House with a tower, Pawer’s House,Unger’s House and the Apponyi Palace.It ranks among the oldest buildings in the city and today houses the Bratislava City Museum. The Maximilian Fountain (sometimes known as the Roland Fountain) is named after Hungarian King Maximilian II, whose statue stands at its centre. He provided the finances to build the fountain in

bratislava: Historical Centre 15 year 1572. An original part of the fountain was also four naked little boys urinating into the fountain’s basin, the same motif as the famous Manneken Pis in Brussel. This part of the fountain was removed in the 18th century. Today it can be found as part of a small fountain in the courtyard of a house at Uršulínska 6. An interesting plaque bearing the date of February 1850 is placed at the botton of the Old Town Hall. It marks the day and height to which the Danube flooded the square. Higher up in the same tower wall is a cannon ball commemorating the attacks of Napoleonic troops in 1809. 13 Statue of Napoleonic soldier  Hlavné námestie; map C 3 (c 4) The bronze statue of a soldier leaning on a bench is a 1997 work by the Slovak sculptor Juraj Meliš and, judging by the number of photos in which it features,has proven to be a hit with locals and visitors alike.The soldier wears a uniform of Napoleon’s army,which twice visited Bratislava: initially in 1805 when the peace treaty known as the Treaty of Pressburg was signed in Bratislava’s Primate’s Palace after the Battle ofAusterlitz (Slavkov), and latterlywhen the Little Corporal attempted to capture the city in 1809 and his troops bombarded Bratislava from the banks of today’s Petržalka.This event is recalled each June in Sad Janka Kráľa park,when the battle is re-enacted with soldiers in period costumes. 14 Stará radnica (OldTown Hall) W  page 16 15 Kostol Najsvätejšieho Spasiteľa - Jezuitský kostol (Church of the Holy Saviour - Jesuit Church)  Františkánske námestie 4; map C 3 (c 4) Å +421 (0)2 5277-5499 a Mon-Fri 14:30-19:00 Sat 15:30-19:00 Sun 7:00- 12:30, 16:00-19:00 U Mon-Fri 15:15, 16:30, 18:00 Sat 16:30, 18:00 Sun 7:30, 9:00, 11:30, 16:30, 18:00 voluntary ¯ The unusual architecture and ground plan of what is now the Roman Catholic Church of the Holy Saviour – or the Jesuit Church – originates from its previous incarnation as a late Renaissance Evangelical church,which was rebuilt in the baroque style.The original three-nave church was built between 1636-38 by the German architect Johan Hans Stoss and was first used by German Protestants.Restrictions in place at the time meant that the church could not have a tower,nor a presbytery nor an entrance onto the main street,but Stoss managed to bend the rules slightly by elevating the middle section of the nave by three steps and building a front entrance and presbytery regardless. After re-catholisation of the country,and following approval given by Emperor Leopold I in 1673, the church was given to the Jesuit Order.They rebuilt the church’s interior in the baroque style while its outside design remained almost unchanged.The church holds one the most beautiful rococo pulpits in central Europe,constructed in 1753 by Ludwig Gode. 16 Primaciálny palác (Primate’s Palace) W  page 17 17Tourist Info. Centre  page 105 18 Galéria Nedbalka (Nedbalka Gallery) W  Nedbalova ulica 17; map C 3 (c 4)  0.3 km (4 min)  www.nedbalka.ska Tue-Sun 13:00-19:00 €4 å e é WC Nedbalka Gallery opened in 2012 as an exhibition space for Slovak modern and fine art and its circular,four-floor,open-space plan has earned it the nickname Slovakia’s Small Guggenheim. From the outside the building at 17 Nedbalova Street still has the look of a classical construction, built in the 19th century.But its modern extension,originally built for the Slovenská Sporiteľňa bank,was added in the 1990s and earned its architects Viktória Cvengrošová and Virgil Droppa the prestigious Dušan JurkovičAward, given to outstanding examples of architecture in Slovakia. New owners turned the building into a gallery and it now contains more than 150 works by prominent Slovak artists from the end of the 19th century to the present day,including pieces by Ladislav Medňanský (Mednyánszky),Ladislav Guderna, Mikuláš Galanda,Ján Fulla and Vincent Hložník. Rococo pulpit in the Jesuit Church

Museum of Viti- culture The museum presents a history of Bratislava’s wine- -growing culture, from the vineyards through production, to the bottle. Several wine- -tasting programmes are available. 14 Stará radnica W (OldTown Hall)  Primaciálne námestie 3 / Hlavné námestie; map C 3 (c 4)  0 km (0 min) Å +421 (0)2 5910-0847 G www.nsvsr.sk www.muzeum.bratislava.ska Tue-Fri 10:00-16:30 Sat-Sun 11:00-17:30 €6 (museum), from €18.99 (opened wine-tasting) åé(excluding Old Town Hall Tower and Apponyi Palace) WC The Old City Hall,which dominates Bratislava’s Hlavné námestie (Main Square), is a complex of historical buildings dating from the 13th century.Its current appearance is the result of development spanning centuries. The oldest section is the early gothic edifice belonging to the Jacobus’ House, which served as a town hall in the 14th century.The city council gradually bought neighbouring buildings and re-developed and extended the complex in Renaissance, baroque and neo-gothic styles. The complex has formerly housed mayoral offices, accommodation for town guards,an armoury and a prison. Nowadays the OldTown Hall,with preserved historical architecture and decoration, is square-shaped,around a courtyard in which are held various cultural events.The tower affords a view over the Main Square and all of the OldTown. The town hall houses the Bratislava City Museum,which opened in 1868 and is the oldest continually-operating museum in Slovakia.Today it is spread across the OldTown Hall and the adjoiningApponyi Palace,the former home of CountApponyi,which was built in 1761-62.The museum houses three permanent exhibitions,focusing on city history, viticulture and a Period Rooms Museum,which provides an insight into the lives of Bratislavan aristocracy from the 18th-19th centuries.The cellar of theApponyi Palace houses the National Collection of Slovak Wine,a collection of 100 of the country’s best vintages of any given year. Period Rooms Museum The rooms of the Apponyi Palace are furnished to resemble the inte- riors of noble town houses through Bratislava’s history, featuring restored wall paintings, interior architecture and furniture. 16 bratislava: Historical Centre Museum of the City History The Old Town Hall houses an exhibition of the history of Bratislava from pre-history to the present day.

bratislava: Historical Centre 17 The Fountain of St George In the Slovak version of the St George legend, the brave knight saved the maiden Dúbravka from the dragon, gaining her hand in marriage as a reward. Renaissancetapestries The tapestries are the work of the English royal manufacturer in Mortlake, near London. The Chapel of St Ladislaus is easily missed, for although it is part of the 18th century Primate’s Palace, and its impressive space stretches through each of its storeys, there are no exterior signs of a chapel, not even a tower. The classicist-style chapel was established by Archbishop József Batthyányi in 1780 with an interior ceiling decorated by paintings probably by the Austrian artist A. F. Maulbertsch. The chapel continues to serve to its original purpose and holy masses are held here regularly (Sun 8:30). Chapel of St Ladislaus 16 Primaciálny palác W (Primate’s Palace)  Primaciálne námestie 1; map C 3 (c 4) Å +421 (0)2 5935-6394  ¯a Tue-Sun 10:00-16:30 €3 åé WC The classicist Primate’s Palace,commissioned in the late 18th century forArchbishop József Batthyányi, is considered to be one of the most beautiful palaces in Bratislava.The first occupant is recalled by the Batthyányi coat of arms and hat,made from iron and weighing 150kg, which can still be seen at the top of the tympanum. The palace’s splendid Mirror Hall,which extends over two floors,has witnessed several important historical events, including the signing of theTreaty of Pressburg on December 26,1805,which followed Napolean’s triumph in the Battle ofAusterlitz.The event is commemorated by a board located near the entrance to the palace. The city council bought the palace at the beginning of 20th century and currently it serves as the seat of Bratislava’s mayor,a place for meetings of the city council,and for various special meetings and negotiations.Ordinarily,visitors can only see certain rooms of the palace,including the Mirror Hall,but can also visit St Ladislav’s Chapel,in the western part of the palace,during masses and other very special occasions. One of the most precious collections owned by the city comprises six late Renaissance English tapestries – the “Mortlake tapestries”– from the beginning of the 17th century,which were found during the reconstruction of the palace in 1903.(Some sources falsely report that theywere found in the palace’s chimneys.) Similar tapestries,depicting the tragic love story of Hero and Leander can be seen in the residence of the Swedish royal family in Stockholm. The Fountain of St George,in the inner courtyard of the palace,depicts the famous tussle with the dragon and,according to legend,symbolises the efforts of the Catholic Church to resist the reformation.The Primate’s Palace,in particular its Mirror Hall,is these days often used for marriages or concerts.

18 bratislava: Historical Centre 19 Starátržnica (Old Market Hall)  Námestie SNP 30; map D 3  0.4 km (5 min) www.staratrznica.sk ¯WC a market hall: Sat 10:00-15:00 and for performances, a café: Mon-Sat 8:00-24:00, Sun 9:00-24:00  free or depending on performance For more than 50 years since it opened in 1910,Bratislava’s Old Market Hall served its original purpose,an iron basilica-like shell covering a bustling market place.Later it became a television studio for SlovakTelevision, before reverting back to being a market for eight years after reconstruction in 2000.It was closed to the public in 2008, serving only as an occasional venue for cultural events, however,it reopened in autumn 2013 as a multifunctional hub, offering space for various cultural events,festivals and farmers’ markets (every Saturday 10:00- 15:00).On the other side of the main entrance to the building is a small café. 20 Manderlák (Manderla’s House)  Námestie SNP 23; map D 3  0.4 km (5 min) a exterior views only Manderla’s House,known as Manderlák and constructed in 1935, was the first high-rise building in the former Czechoslovakia. Rudolf Manderla was a butcher and businessman and commissioned architects Christian Ludwig, Emerich Spitzer andAugustín Danielis to design something special for him.They designed a 45-metre high building with shops on the ground floor including a butchers shop,which remained there for 73 years,with offices,a café,and apartments on the upper floors.The building had 11 storeys – a exceptional number for the period. 21 Kostol Milosrdných bratov (Church of the Merciful Brothers)  Námestie SNP 9; map C 3 (c 2) 0.4 km (5 min) Å +421 (0)2 5930-2927a Mon-Sun 8:00-19:00 (en- trance hall) U Mon-Fri 8:00, 18:00 Sat 8:00 Sun 9:30, 11:30 (mass in Italian, except holidays)  voluntary The Order of the Merciful Brothers arrived in Bratislava in 1672 at the invitation of theArchbishop of Esztergom,Juraj Szelepcenyi, who gave them land on which they built a complex including church,monastery and hospital. The construction lasted from the 1680s until the early 18th century, and when finished resembled the monastery and church of the same order in Vienna.The hospital was intended for people in poverty and became greatly significant during the plague epidemic of 1711-13. The interior of the church is dominated by a main altar from 1737,featuring the work of the German late-baroque painter Martin Speer.His painting depicts the Visitation,i.e.,the visit of the pregnant Virgin Mary to Elizabeth, who was pregnant with John the Baptist.The precious baroque pulpit,with reliefs of saints,is another important feature. During the communist regime the complex was nationalised and continued to serve as a hospital.The Merciful Brothers were ousted,however, and could return only after the fall of the totalitarian regime. The order took back the hospital in 1995 and continues to run the hospital here. 22 Kostol Cirkevného Zboru Reformovanej kresťanskej cirkvi (Church of Clerical Cong- regation of the Reformed Christian Church)  Námestie SNP 4; map C 3 (c 2)  0.4 km (5 min) Å +421 (0)2 5443-3426 a exterior views only U Sun 9:00, 10:30 (HUN) The neo-romanesque Church,also known as the Calvinist Church,is the work of the architects Franz Wimmer and Flóris Opaterny and was built in the 1910s.The Calvinist Church formed in Bratislava Old Market Hall

bratislava: Historical Centre 19 only in the late 19th century,with Calvinist liturgies originally carried out in temporary premises,either bought or rented.But calls grew for a permanent church and this structure was built on the site of the former Saltzamt,where in the 17th century Protestant churchmen were reportedly imprisoned or sent to the galleys. The church is still in use today and holy masses are held in Slovak and Hungarian.According to the 2011 census,the Reformed Christian Church has about 100,000 members in Slovakia. 23 KC Dunaj (Centre of culture)  pages 56-57 24 Kostola kláštor uršulínok (Ursuline Church and Convent)  Uršulínska; map C 3 (c 2)  0.22 km (3 min) Å +421 (0)2 5443-4696a 6:00-17:00 (entrance hall) U Mon-Sat 6:30; Sun 8:00, 10:00 voluntaryé The Renaissance Ursuline Church was built between 1659-63, originally for the Protestants of the citywho used it for only seven years.In 1670,it was taken over by the Order of St Ursula,in whose possession it remains today.The interior of the church is dominated by a baroque main altar,from the late 18th century,and its sculpture of the Virgin Mary.The sculpture is a copy of the Virgin Mary from Loretta,received byArchbishop Leopold Kolonich in 1684.Pope John Paul II stayed in the convent here during his visit in 1995,a visit commemorated by a bronze relief by the Slovak sculptor Ján Borko.Nowadays the primary and grammar schools of St Ursula are also located here. 25 Františkánsky kostol Zvestovania Pána W (Franciscan Church of Lord’s Annunciation)  Františkánske námestie 2; map C 3 (c 2)  0.14 km (2 min) Å +421 (0)2 5443-2145 ¯ a Apr-Oct Mon-Sat 10:00-17:00 (entrance hall) Jul-Aug Mon-Fri 10:00-17:00, Sat 10:00-17:00 (entrance hall) U Mon-Sat 9:00, 19:30 Sun 10:30, 12:00, 16:30, 18:00 voluntaryéwww.frantiskani.sk The Franciscan Church,part of the Franciscan monastery,is the oldest religious building in Bratislava’s OldTown,originally built in the gothic style between 1280-97.After suffering damage in the earthquake of 1590,the church was rebuilt in the Renaissance style and nowadays the façade is mostly baroque. The church was consecrated in 1297 in the presence of KingAndrew III,and the oldest remaining part is the presbytery.A gothic tower was replaced by a neo-gothic version in 1897,but the original is now in Sad Janka Kráľa park,in Petržalka across the Danube,where it serves as a small pavilion.Legend has it that the bell in the tower came to be known as the “beer bell”, announcing the closing time for pubs. The church was an important place during coronation ceremonies in Bratislava.New kings of Hungary walked here from St Martin’s Cathedral and appointed their Knights of the Golden Spur.In 1526,Ferdinand I,the holy Roman emperor,was elected as King of Hungary here and throughout mediaeval times,the huge church premises were also used for public meetings, including the election of the city mayor. The gothic Chapel of Saint John the Evangelist at the church’s northern end is a double- floored chapel with crypt that was built in the 14th century by Ján,son of Bratislava’s then mayor Jakub.It became the funeral chapel for the mayoral family.Reconstructed in 1831,the chapel is now one of the most significant works of gothic architecture in Slovakia.New residential wings of the monastery were added during the 17th and 18th centuries.The main altar representing the annunciation was constructed between 1720-30. Another chapel was added to the church in 1708,dedicated to Santa Maria di Loreto,containing a statue of the Black Madonna with Jesus. The church also houses a rare relic: the torso of Saint Reparat, who was a 4th century Christian deacon from Italy. Reparat died a martyr in 353 and had his tongue cut out and his right hand cut off. He was buried in Rome until 1769,when his bodywas moved to Bratislava on the request of the Franciscan friar Eugen Kósa. Today the church and monasterywith garden belong to Franciscan monks and mass is celebrated every day in both Slovak and Hungarian. Black Madonna with Jesus

20 bratislava: Historical Centre 26 Mirbachov palác (Mirbach Palace)  Františkánske nám. 11; map C 3 (c 2)  0.15 km (2 min) Å +421 (0)2 5443-1556  www.gmb.sk a Tue-Sun 11:00-18:00 €4 e¯WC Mirbach Palace is one of the best preserved pieces of original architecture from old Pressburg, named after its last owner Emil Mirbach.The palace todayhouses the Bratislava CityGalleryand is a fine example of rococo architecture. Itwas built on the site of buildings first mentioned in 1459,as Curia Civitatis orWeite Hof,but a wealthybrewer named Michael Spech had the old buildings torn down and built the palacewe see todaybetween 1768-70.Spech sold the palace after its completion and it had a number of owners, including Koloman Nyáry,whose beautiful coat of arms decorates the tympanum in the upper central part of the façade.On the palace’s patio is a fountainwith a sculpture of the Greek godTriton and nymph by ViktorTilgner. The gallery houses a permanent exhibition of central European baroque painting and sculpture as well as ever-changing temporary exhibitions,plus numerous concerts and recitals. 27 Michalská brána (Michael’s Gate) W  Michalská 22; map C 3 (c 1)  0.26 km (3 min) Å +421 (0)2 5443-3044 G www.muzeum.bratislava.ska Tue-Fri 10:00-17:00 Sat-Sun 11:00-18:00 €4.30 e At one point,there were four main gates through solid city fortifications into what is now Bratislava’s OldTown.Michael’s Gate,built at the end of 13th century, is the only one that remains today. In the past,Michael’s Gate had a drawbridge,portcullis and heavy wooden doors,but is now most notable for its gothic tower,which was extended to its present height in the mid-18th century and has a sculpture of St Michael standing at its top.Its name is derived from St Michael’s Church and a settlement in a suburb outside the gate.Nowadays the gate houses the Museum of Weapons andTown Fortification and climbing the tower offers a view over the old city.Beneath Michael’sTower is the so-called “zero kilometre” with marks showing the distances from Bratislava to 29 major cities around the world. 28 Lekáreň U červeného raka (Red Crayfish Pharmacy)  Michalská 26; map C 3 (c 1)  0.28 km (4 min) Å +421 (0)2 5413-1214 G www.muzeum.bratislava.ska Tue-Fri 10:00-16:45 Sat-Sun 11:00-17:45 €4.30 e é Bratislava’s Museum of Pharmacy is housed in the baroque burgher house that was formerly the premises of the Red Crayfish Pharmacy,a company that dates from the 16th century.The building was constructed within the barbican of St Michael’s Gate in the second half of the 18th century, specifically for the pharmacy, and the pharmacy remained in operation until 1953 when it was transformed into the museum. The museum contains historical pharmaceutical equipment, the oldest of which dates from the 16th century,and ancient pharmaceutical literature. During the summer,visitors can also visit Čitáreň u Červeného raka, the open-air reading room,as well as a garden behind the building which used to be part of a defence moat. The stone bridge of St Michael above is from the 18th century,when it replaced an older wooden bridge.It is the oldest bridge in Bratislava. 29 Kostol sv.Jána z Mathy (Church of St John of Matha)  Župné nám.; map C 3 (c 1)  0.55 km (7 min) Å +421 (0)2 5441-5106 a Mon-Sat 6:30, 17:00 Sun 6:30, 8:30, 10:00, 11:30, 19:30 (entrance hall) U Mon-Sat 7:00, 17:30 Sun 7:00, 9:00 (in Latin), 10:30, 12:00, 20:00  voluntary The Church of St John of Matha, sometimes incorrectly referred to as the HolyTrinity Church,is a baroque-style structure from the 18th century built by theTrinitarian Order.Its curved three-tower façade is similar to St Peter’s in Vienna, designed by Lukas von Hildebrandt. The centre of the church is an oval nave with a trompe-l’œil fresco by the Italian baroque painterAntonio Galli Bibiena on the dome.It is one of a few examples in Slovakia of an art technique that makes the objects depicted appear in three dimensions.The church has an almost untouched original baroque interior,dominated by the main altar,which is decorated with a

bratislava: Historical Centre 21 painting by Franz Xavier Karl Palkó from 1745.It depicts John of Matha with Felix Valois,founders of the Trinitarian Order,setting slaves free from the Ottomans.The church continues to serve to its original purpose,holding regular masses, weddings and concerts. 30 Kostol sv.Štefana (Church of St Stephen)  Župné námestie 10; map C 3 (c 1)  0.6 km (7 min) Å +421 (0)2 5930-3800 a 15:15-20:00 U Mon-Sat 6:00, 17:00, 19:00 Sun 5:15, 6:00, 8:00, 9:30, 11:00, 17:00, 19:00 voluntary é The Church of St Stephen,dedicated to the Hungarian king,is attached to the monastery of the Capuchin Order,who first arrived in Bratislava in 1676 and initially used St Catherine’s Chapel.The cornerstone of their monasterywas laid in 1708,with building of the church beginning three years later.The first monks became permanent residents in 1712 and the church was finished in 1717,but extensive rebuilding was necessary in 1736-7 owing to moisture in the soil beneath the church.The architecture of the church and the monastery is very simple,without a bell-tower,and typical for the Capuchin Order.But further renovations changed the church again,including in 1961 when its façade was rebuilt in the neo-gothic style according to plans drawn up by the architect Ignác Feigler Jr.The central altar in the church holds a painting,believed to be by Capuchin Udalricus of about 1747,depicting King Stephen consecrating the country.It also depicts the skyline of Bratislava as it would have appeared at time of painting,with the castle,cathedral and town hall all clearlyvisible. 31 Kaplnka sv. Kataríny (St Catherine’s Chapel)  Michalská 8; map C 3 (c 1)  0.23 km (3 min) Å +421 (0)2 5443-1359 a exterior views only U Sun 9:30é St Catherine’s Chapel,founded by the Cistercian friar Franciscus Colomba in 1311,is the oldest gothic chapel in Bratislava.The building was finished in 1325 and consecrated by Bishop Ondrej of Székesfehérvár. The architect Ignác Feigler Sr. changed its façade to its present classicistic form around 1840. Between 2003-06,the chapel underwent another reconstruction, during which the chapel reverted to its original gothic appearance.This reconstruction also uncovered an original pastophorium,i.e.,a niche in which sacrament was stored, behind a stone epitaph in the wall. Restorers moved the epitaph to another part of the chapel,leaving the pastophorium visible. The chapel,which was named Monument of the Year in 2007 by the Culture Ministry,is still in regular use for holy mass. 32 Univerzitná knižnica (University Library)  Michalská 1; map C 3 (c 1)  0.22 km (3 min) Å +421 (0)2 2046-6111 www.ulib.sk a exterior views only The magnificent building that currently houses the university library began life as the baroque Palace of the Hungarian Royal Chamber,the leading financial institution of the Hungarian Kingdom.It was designed by the Italian architect G.B. Martinelli and built in 1753-56.The Hungarian Royal Chamber resided in Bratislava between 1531-1782,and the building latterly housed the Hungarian Parliament,between 1802-48.The famous session that adopted the “March Laws”, essentially establishing Hungary’s independence fromAustria,took place here. Between 1860-67,the royal regency resided in the building; after it was abolished,Hungarian, Czechoslovak and Slovak judicial institutions resided there.In 1953-55, the building was remodelled again to serve its next purpose: to hold the library,which remains today. The library holds some of the most important documents in Slovakia,including Basagic’s Collection of Islamic Manuscripts, which are on the UNESCO heritage list and commemorated by a plaque in the building.Another plaque is dedicated to Ľudovít Štúr, the politician and writer,who campaigned throughout the early 19th for an independent Slovak nation,and who later codified the Slovak language. Church of St John of Matha

22 bratislava: Historical Centre 33 Zichyho palác (Zichy Palace)  Ventúrska 9; map C 3 (c 3)  0.24 km (3 min) Å +421 (0)2 5443-1681¯  a Galéria Z: Mon-Sat 13:00-18:00 afor performances from €1 é ä e WC Zichy Palace is a typical example of classicist architecture built between 1770-80 by Count Franz Zichy.In the 19th century,one of the founders of German Romantic opera,Heinrich Marschner,was a music teacher to the Zichy family. Nowadays the palace hosts galleries, civil ceremonies,including weddings,as well as cultural events such as concerts,readings and art exhibitions. 34Academia Istropolitana  Ventúrska 3; map C 3 (c 3)  0.25 km (3 min) Å University of Performing Arts +421 (0)2 5930-1411 www.acadistr.ska 6:00-21:30 (courtyard)é Academia Istropolitana was established in 1467 by King Matthias Corvinus as the first humanist university in the Hungarian Kingdom.It was the second oldest university in what is now Slovakia and the Czech Republic.The school, built in the gothic style,had four faculties,focusing on philosophy, theology,natural sciences and law. One of the teachers at the universitywas Johannes Müller Regiomontanus,a significant European pedagogue,who is reputed to have taught about the Earth moving around the sun before Galileo Galilei.The schoolwas closed after Corvinus’ death in 1490, according to some historical sources, and the building nowserves as the Theatre Facultyof theAcademy Universityof PerformingArts. 35 Pálffyho palác W (Pálffy Palace)  Panská 19; map C 3 (c 3)  0.28 km (3 min) Å +421 (0)2 5443-3627 www.gmb.sk a Tue-Sun 11:00-18:00 €4 åe WC Pálffy Palace offers a thorough overviewof thevarious architectural styles and historical phases through which Bratislava developed.The basement holds evidence of Celtic settlements from the 1st century AD,while the Roman period can be traced through secondary building materials in the preserved early mediaeval walls from the 13th century.Excavations have also revealed the basis of a gothic palace with a chapel in the basement and a stellar vault from the 15th century on the first floor of the building.The Slavonic period left its traces in the basement,where four graves from the 9th and mid-10th centuries have been discovered.Other building alterations date from the 17th and 19th centuries. The Pálffy family took ownership of the palace in the 18th century but after the death of the last owner,count János Pálffy,who was a philanthropist,supporter and collector of art,the palace was assigned to the Bratislava City Gallery.Today it holds permanent exhibitions of gothic table painting and sculpture and central European painting and sculpture of the 19th century. 36 Erdödyho palác (Erdödy Palace)  Ventúrska 1; map C 3 (c 3)  0.29 km (4 min) www.medusagroup.ska 11:00-24:00 (restaurant), Thu-Sat 21:00-5:00 (club) from €3 (club) ä é(restaurant only) WC The rococo Erdödy Palace was built in 1770 for Count Georgius Leopold Erdödy,the chairman of the court and head of the Hungarian Royal Chamber.Later,Erdödy’s second son,Ján Nepomuk,re-built the construction into a luxury palace in which concerts and opera performances took place. (The Erdödys even had their own opera company.) During a vast reconstruction in the 1990s,a third floor was added and the building’s façade and paintings were restored to their original rococo style.Today, part of the building and courtyard are occupied by restaurants,bars and a club,while the first floor houses a private gallery. 37 Bibiana (children‘s centre)  pages 84-85 38 St Martin’s Cathedral W  pages 24-25 39 Hradby (City walls)  map C 3 (c 3)  0.5 km (7 min) a May-Sep: 10:00-20:00 free

In years past,only so-called “royal towns” enjoyed the privilege to have fortifications around them, and Pressburg obtained this right in 1297.The citywalls encircled the relatively small area of the current OldTown,while the castle had its own fortification system.However what initially helped the town to thrive behind the protection of thick stone walls and a moat later hampered its development. Finally Empress MariaTheresa permitted demolition of the city walls in 1775 to allow the town to grow. Relatively little of the mediaeval fortification system remains today,including only one of the original four gates, St Michael’sTower,St Michael’s Bridge,the barbican and the moat. The biggest section of preserved walls is next to St Martin’s Cathedral,whose façade used to form part of the fortification – the reason there is no entrance to the cathedral from this side.Some citywalls on the north side of the cathedral became the back walls of the houses in the Jewish quarter,meaning they survived until the 1960s.But theywere eventually destroyed,along with the rest of the area,during the large-scale re-building of that era. 40 Kapitulská ulica (Kapitulská Street)  map C 3 (c 3)  0.4 km (5 min) Kapitulská Street is one of the oldest thoroughfares in Bratislava and has existed since at least 1204,when a canonry relocated there from the Castle Hill.St Martin’s Cathedral is also located at one end,ensuring the street’s great importance. Citywalls built in the 14th century separated Kapitulská Street from the castle complex and the street earned the nickname “cvinger”,meaning “the street behind the walls”. It has also remained largely untouched,without shops,cafés or restaurants,to this day.Most of the buildings along the street are the property of the Catholic Church and have resisted development. Fifteen buildings on Kapitulská are on the list of the cultural and historical monuments, including two palaces,the theological college (Collegium Emericanum) and some burgher houses.However, a number of them are waiting for reconstruction and one of the palaces,the Esterházy Palace,is considered to be the biggest ruin in Bratislava. 41 Kostol Klarisiek (Church of the Clarisses)  Klariská 5; map C 3 (c 3)  0.25 km (3.5 min) Å +421 (0)2 5910-3133¯  a for performances depending on performance é The Church of the Clarisses (Kostol Klarisiek) is a former Catholic church that has become one of Bratislava’s most important gothic monuments.The Clarisses – also known as the Order of Poor Clares – came to Bratislava in 1297 and built a church and a convent with the support of King Andrew III on the site of a Cistercian monastery.The mendicant orders,which include the Franciscans (male) and Clarisses (female),were not allowed to construct towers on their buildings, so the pentagonal tower,which is a rarity among gothic structures,was added around 1400. The single-nave church was rebuilt in the rococo style in 1760, and included altars designed by FrantišekAnton Palko,dedicated to theAnnunciation and to St Claire. They remain in the church today, as well as the original rococo- style pulpit,with allegories of Faith,Hope,Love and Holy Script, designed by Jozef Sartory. In 1782,the Order of Poor Clares was dissolved,and the church became the seat of a legal academy and a Catholic school. The composers Béla Bartók and Ernest Dohnány,as well as scientist Jozef Murgaš and poet Ján Hollý, studied there.It is currently used as a concert and exhibition hall, while the adjacent convent is used by the university library.During reconstruction of the convent in the first decade of the 21st century, a metal box with a document from the 19th century,describing the previous past renovations and repairs of the church,was found in the top of the spire. Bratislava: Historical Centre 23 Kapitulská street and the Church of the Clarisses

24 bratislava: HISTORICAL CENTRE  Rudnayovo námestie 1; map C 3 (c 3)  0.55 km (7 min) Å +421 (0)2 5443-1359 dom.fara.ska Apr-Nov 11: Mon-Fri 9:00-11:30, 13:00-18:00 Sat 9:00-11:30 Sun 13:30-16:30; Nov 11-Mar: Mon-Fri 9:00-11:30, 13:00-16:00 Sat 9:00-11:30 Sun 13:30-16:30 U Mon-Sat 7:30, 12:00 Sun 7:45 (GER), 9:00 (LAT), 10:30, 12:00, 17:00 €2.5 (Sun free) é e G ¯ St Martin’s Cathedral is the biggest and most noteworthy church in Bratislava,which reached the height of its importance between 1563-1830 as the location for the coronation of 19 monarchs of the Hungarian Kingdom. Beforethat,thecathedralstartedlife asatiny13th centuryromanesquechurch, originallyonthetopofwhatisnow BratislavaCastlehill.In1221,PopeHonorius IIIgavepermissionforthechurchtobe movedtotheareabeneaththehill,but congregationssoonoutgrewitasthecity flourished.Constructionofagothicbuilding startedintheearly14th centuryandwas eventuallyconsecratedin1452.Further reconstructionscontinued,includingthe additionofabigger,late-gothicpresbytery between1461-87,untilthecathedralassumed moreorlessitspresentform. Itisathree-navestructure,eachof thesameheight,constructedbythesame workshopresponsible forStStephen’sin Vienna.Althoughits interiorissuitably ornamental,much ofthecathedral’s exteriorisrelatively plain,especiallycomparedwithother gothiccathedrals.Thisisowingtothe cathedral’sdualpurposeaspartofthe city’sfortifications.Itsentrances,whose importancechangedoverthe centuries,areonitssidesandits westernfaçade,withits“front” comprisingpartofthefortification wall.Remainsofthecitywallsare preservedtodayatthesouthern endofthecathedral. After the Hungarian Kingdom lost the Battle of Mohács to the Ottoman Empire in 1526–yielding its capital Buda and its coronation citySzékesfehérvár–Bratislava (then Pressburg) became the de facto capital of the displaced Hungarian monarchy and the cathedralwas used for coronations.With renewed importance, the cathedral’s interiorwas rebuilt in the baroque style,with most of the work attributed to the prominent Austrian baroque sculptor Georg Rafael Donner,who had been invited to Pressburg byArchbishop Imrich Eszterházy. Donnerspentaboutadecade inPressburg,duringwhichtime thecathedralgotanewmain Citywalls The façade of the cathedral used to be part of the fortified city walls, whose remains have been preserved on its southern side. The crypts The crypts were used for burials of church dignitaries until the end of the 19th century. Chapel of St Johnthe Almoner A work by the baroque sculptor Georg Rafael Donner, which holds the shrine with the remains of the 6-7th century saint John the Almoner. 38 Katedrála sv.Martina (St Martin’s Cathedral) W

bratislava: HISTORICAL CENTRE 25 baldachinaltar,featuringthreeofDonner’s leadsculptures.Flankedbytwoangels,the centralsculpturedepictsStMartinonahorse cuttinghiscloaktoshareitwithabeggar. ThecoronationofMariaTheresatookplace infrontofthisaltarin1741.Donneralsobuilt theChapelofStJohntheAlmonertoholdthe mortalremainsoftheCypriotsaintfrom the6-7th century.Thearchbishopis nowalsoburiedinthechapel. Inthe19th century,the cathedralunderwentfurther extensiverenovations,this timetoremovealmostallthe baroqueelementsandreplace themwithgothicfeatures. Themainbaroquealtarwas re-assembledandwhilethe equestriansculptureofSt Martinremainedinthe cathedral,theangelswere movedtoBudapest.Only theChapelofStJohnthe Almoneranditsinterior keptitsoriginalstyle. Thecurrentshapeand lookofthecathedraldates more-or-lessfromthisperiod. Itsmainentranceisfrom thenorthernnave,beneath an85-metrehightowerthatistoppedwith agildedcopyofthecrownofStStephen. Itis1.6mhighand300kginweight,an appropriatereminderofthesignificanceof thecathedralduringcoronationtimes. Contemporaryvisitorscanseeinthe cathedralavasthauloftreasuresamassed hereduringits550yearsofexistence.These includeallthepreciousitemsusedduring Ribbed vault The three-nave structure with eight monumental columns was constructed by the same workshop responsible for St Stephen’s in Vienna. Sculpture of St Martin The equestrian sculpture of St Martin is a masterpiece by Georg Rafael Donner and used to be the central piece of the main baroque altar in the cathedral. holymasses:chalices,reliquaries,bishops’ crosiersandchasubles,etc.,plusexceptional paintingsandwalladornments.Probably themostpreciousexhibitedpieceisthe 109-cmhighgothicmonstrance.Thereisalso atreasurylocatedinthesacristybelowthe towerandintheadjoiningchapel. InthewesternfaçadeistheChapelof SophiaofBavaria,whichonceservedasan archivecontaining3,285medieval documentsandmorethan23,000 papersfromtheperiodafterthe 1526BattleofMohács,aswellas severalliturgicalbooks.The cryptsbeneaththecathedral wereusedforburialsupuntil theendof19th century,andare nowaccessibleviatheChapel ofStAnnainthecathedral’s northernsection.Thedoorat thisendwaspreviouslythe mainentranceportalforthe churchandisdecoratedby atympanumfeaturinga reliefoftheHolyTrinity.The chandelierinthethree-nave hallwitheightcolumnsis fromtheendofthe16th century. Thecathedralcontinues tobethehomeoftheBratislava Archdioceseandapartfromholdingholy masses,weddingsandotherreligiousevents, itisalsothevenueforfrequentconcerts.In thepast,LudwigvanBeethovenpremiered hisMissaSolemnishereandFranzLisztis alsobelievedtohavepremieredsomeofhis worksinthecathedral.Theorganfrom1880 wasreplacedin2010withapiecebythe GermanorganmasterGeraldWoehl.

26 bratislava: HISTORICAL CENTRE  Bratislavský hrad; map B 3  1.2 km (18 min)  1.3 km (2 min) u Zámocká v 203, 207 Å +421 (0)2 2048-3110 G  www.snm.ska Summer season (Apr1-Nov16) Tue-Sun 10:00-17:00; Winter season (Nov17-Mar 31) Tue-Sun 9:00-16:00; (areal of the castle open 8:00-24:00) €7 (museum) ä e é (upon request, excluding tower and treasury) WC The monumental Bratislava Castle – described bysome as resembling a table turned upside down – has been dominating the city’s skyline for centuries.Built at the top of an 85m-high hill,where it enjoys a keystrategic location peering over the Danube,the castle has experienced heydays and periods of decline,all ofwhich have contributed to its current appearance. Reconstruction has been almost con- tinual since its first brickwas laid,and the most recent project intends to return it to the baroque style of the period of Empress MariaTheresa; itwas the castle’s golden age. The recent project has alsoyielded some fascinating archaeological discoveries that yet againwill mean the castle’s history will be rewritten and,in itswake,that of Bratislava itself. The castle’s location has been significant since the StoneAge, with the first settlers likelyto have set up home around the 3rd centuryBC.Bythe IronAge,the site had grown important not onlyfor its proximityto the Danube (therewas a ford across the river here), but also because of its position on some significant trade routes.TheAmber Road, for instance,alongwhich Celts and Romans transported amber from the Baltics to the Mediterranean,passed the castle. In 2009,archaeologists unearthed 22 gold and silver coins bearing the names of the Celtic nobles Biatec and Nonnos,among other extraordinaryartefacts,during exca- vations of the castle – a haul nowknown as the “GoldenTreasure of Bratislava Castle”. These findings,alongwith the discoveryof the remains of Roman buildings built for Celtic nobility,which are believed to be from the 1st centuryBC.(The excavations are on- going and further discoveries are expected. However,there is some controversyover the 42 Bratislavský hrad (Bratislava Castle) W building of the garages on the archaeological site.The govern- ment promises to exhibit the excavations on the sitewhere theywere found.) Bratislava Castlewas mentioned for the first time in written documents in 907,bearing the name Pressalauspruch. However,the oldest part of the castle still standing is what is nowknown as the CrownTower,from the 13th century.In the 15th century, the castle underwent its first extensive re-building program andwas transformed into a gothic edifice during the rule of Sigismund of Luxemburg.The king demolished almost all the existing structure and built a two- floored gothic palacewith a trapezium- shaped ground-plan in its place. The current layout of the castle, with four wings around the main courtyard,is the result of an architectural movement in the Renaissance and early baroque eras.After Brati- slava became the capital and coronation city of the Hungarian Kingdom in 1526, the castle became the resi- dence of the monarchs.It was not considered grand enough Repre- sentative rooms During the castle’s most recent reconstruction, the rooms in the southern wing of the castle received stucco gilded decorations similar to those that graced them during Maria Theresa’s occupation. Windows Preserved gothic and Renaissance windows have been left unco- vered to show various construction phases of the castle. The Crown Tower The oldest part of the castle dating from the 13th century. Its name is derived from its previous function, when coronation jewels used to be stored here.

bratislava: HISTORICAL CENTRE 27 by Emperor Ferdinand I of Habsburg,who decided to rebuild and modernise the out- dated mediaeval castle in the 16th century. He employed the best builders and artists from Italy,but almost none of their work remains today.Only the Renaissance oriel of the former palace chapel,with rich fresco decorations,survives. The castle’s current look owes most to its 17th century redevelop- ment,when another floor was added to the palace,as well as two towers,bringing the total to four.However, only one of them – the CrownTower – actually qualifies as a real tower. The others are merely turrets on the rooftop. After MariaTheresa came to the throne in the 18th century, the castle was rebuilt again into a stately baroque residence.Her son-in-lawAlbert of Saxe-Teschen (who married MariaTheresa’s favourite daughter Marie Christine) added a family gallery, a predecessor of theAlbertina gallery in Vienna.The large areas of the yard behind and around the castle were also cultivated into terraces,French gardens,oranger- ies,and summer and winter riding schools and stables. The good times came to a halt during the reign of MariaTheresa’s son, Joseph II,however,who oversaw the return to Pest for the Hungarian Kingdom in 1783,which caused a decline in pres- tige for Bratislava.Albert left the castle,and all the family’s precious items were moved to Vienna or further afield.Joseph II established at the castle a school and seminar for the catholic clergy, and then during the Napoleonic Wars at the beginning of the 19th century,the castle served as military barracks.This had unex- pectedly dreadful consequences: the army caused a great fire in 1811 and the castle became little more than a ruined shell for more than 140 years. There were serious discus- sions in the 20th century about pulling down the ruins entirely, or redeveloping the site into something completely different. However,common sense eventu- ally prevailed and the ruins were rebuilt to the castle’s previous shape.The interior remains rather plain – few documents exist to give planners an idea of how it would have previously looked – but the castle was opened to the public for the first time in 1968. Since then,it has been home to numerous museums and the Slovak parliament has used its stately premises for ceremonial events. The castle’s treasury currently holds its most exciting artefacts,including the coins unearthed in 2009 and a selection of Roman mosaic floors.There is also an exhibition of historical paintings,in the southern wing, overlooking the Danube that depicts former owners of the castle.Part of the castle tour is a permanent exhibition about the history of the area which is now Slovakia.On the third floor is located a Café and after refreh- ment the tour is completed by climbing to the top of the CrownTower,as one of the oldest parts of the castle on a clear day it offers a 360-degree view including Hungary andAustria (wind turbines visible from the tower are inAustria).The castle also hosts temporary exhibitions. Sigismund Gate The gothic prism-shaped gate with rich stone decoration dates from the 15th century. Victory Gate The gate now features sculptures of military symbols, including helmets, armour, shields, various weapons, banners, etc., which symbolise the ruler’s power and victory. Bastion Luginsland One of two semi-circular cannon-bastions built during the gothic redesign of the castle to reinforce the fortification.

28 bratislava: HISTORICAL CENTRE 43 Museum of Jewish Culture  pages 50-52 44 Podhradie (Settlement below the castle)  Židovská, Zámocká, Beblavého; map B,C 3 (c 1, c 3)  0.65 km (9 min) ä e WC G Podhradie is the name given the area that spreads over the eastern and southern slopes of Bratislava Castle hill,which in mediaeval times would have been separated from the Old Town by city walls.This is also the site of the former Jewish quarter, established in the 16th century when the palatine Mikuláš Pálffy allowed Jews expelled from the city to settle here. Podhradie became part of what is now Bratislava only in the middle of the 19th century but it was all but destroyed by the construction of the SNP Bridge in the mid-20th century, which served to renew the mediaeval division. The most significant build- ings preserved in the narrow cob- blestone streets of Podhradie are the baroque Church of St Nicolas from 1661, built by Francis Khuen, a widow of František Pálffy, and the House of the Good Shepherd, which is one of only two rococo buildings in Bratislava. 45 Dom u dobrého pastiera (House of the Good Shepherd)  Židovská 1; map C 3 (c 3)  0.65 km (9 min) G Å +421 (0)2 5441-1940 www.muzeum.bratislava.sk a Tue-Fri 10:00-17:00 Sat-Sun 11:00-18:00 €2.3 ä e WC The House of the Good Shepherd is among the most beautiful rococo-style buildings in central Europe, and is one of few preserved buildings of the old settlement around Bratislava Castle. It was named after the statue of Christ, the Good Shepherd, which stands in a niche on its corner. The four-floor house was built between 1760-65, in the shape of a trapezium,with an extremely narrow frontal face; the width of one room and staircase.The bottom part was used for trade and craft activities, while the upper served for accommodation. The House of the Good Shepherd has undergone several reconstructions.In addition to changes to the interior,there have been also some modifications of the exterior,including the addition of white louvre windows.After a fire in 1913 the windows were substituted for ones with glass wings. The building now houses the Museum of Clocks, an exhibition of more than 60 historical timepieces from the end of the 17th century to the end of the 19th century. 46 Subclub (music club)  pages 56-57 47 Zuckermandel and Vydrica  Žižkova; map B 4  1.2 km (15 min)  1.5 km (2 min) u Chatam Sófer v 4, 6, 28, 29, 30, 31, 39 G www.snm.ska Tue-Sun 10:00-16:30 (museums) U Mon-Sat 17:00 Sun 8:00, 17:00 (the Holy Trinity Church) €3 (bulk ticket for all museums at Žižkova street) Zuckermandel and Vydrica are the names of the former settlement comprising several streets beneath the Bratislava castle,which first grew up in the 13th centurywhen some important trade routes crossed the area. From the 18th century until the Second World War it became a no- torious red light district,and it was mostly demolished between 1949-69, with the construction of the SNP Bridge completing the damage. Only a few buildings from by- gone eras remain intact along the area’s narrow streets. These struc- tures currently house a museum that focuses on Hungarian and Carpathian German minorities as well as museums devoted to musi- cal instruments and archaeology. In 2013, construction began on a complex that would include both of residential, administrative and commercial buildings. Another preserved building from the historical Zuckermandel is the baroque HolyTrinity Church (Kostol Najsvätejšej Trojice). It was built at the foot of Bratislava Castle hill between 1734-38 on a site once occupied by a wooden chapel. The church is known for its three valuable paintings of Saint Peter, Saint Paul and Christ on the cross, as well as a rare organ from the early 19th century,which has been restored to full working order. On the south wall of the church is a bronze slab depicting the priest Karol Scherz de Vasoja (1807-1888) by the sculptor Alojz Rigele.The priest was well known for his generosity, philanthropy and self- sacrifice during natural disasters and reportedly saved more than 50 people from fire and floods during his lifetime. Podhradie Church of St Nicolas Holy Trinity Church

bratislava: WALKING DISTANCE 29 48Pamätník ChatamaSÓferaW (Chatam Sófer Memorial)  Nábrežie armádneho generála Ludvíka Svobodu 24; map A 3  1.8 km (22 min)  2.1 km (3 min) u Chatam Sófer v 4, 6, 28, 29, 30, 31, 39 Å +421 (0)2 5441-6949 G www.chatamsofer.sk a Mon-Fri, Sun (except Jewish holidays) booking necessary at +421 (0)948 554-442 (9:00-17:00) €6 The Chatam Sófer memorial is a Jewish burial shrine built over the graves of prominent rabbis and scholars,including that of Chatam Sófer himself.Sófer (1762-1839), whose original name was Moshe Schreiber,is one of orthodox Judaism’s most significant scholars, described bywww.chatamsofer.sk as “world renowned for his comments on theTalmud andTora,and the founder of conservative Pressburg’s yeshiva,one of the most prominent centres of traditional Jewish learning in Europe”. This is the sole remaining part of the Jewish cemetery used until 1847 that was destroyed in 1943 during construction of the nearby tunnel.The current memorial is a result of an extensive re-devel- opment of the site from 2000-02 – a project by the Slovak architect Martin Kvasnica,who followed the strict requirements of the halakhah (Jewish law) when designing the monument.The memorial,which is a pilgrimage destination for many Jews from around the world,was opened in 2002 on the 240th anniversary of Chatam Sófer’s birth. 49 River Park  Dvořákovo nábrežie; map A 3  1.8 km (22 min)  3.5 km (5 min) u Chatam Sófer or Park kultúry (PKO) v 4, 6, 28, 29, 30, 31, 39 or 5, 9 Å +421 (0)914 399-999 www.riverpark.sk a Mon-Sun 10:00-2:00 (restaurants/bars); Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00 (shops/services generally) éä e WC On the banks of the Danube between what was formerly the Park of Culture and Leisure and the SNP Bridge,River Park is now principally a residential,commercial and hotel complex comprising flats with a river view and offices peering over the busy street.Part of it also houses the five-star Grand Hotel River Park,with 231 rooms,including the presidential apartment,which opened in 2010. The original architect was Erick van Egeraat,from the Nether- lands,whose plans followed the demands of the city to harmonise the shape of the complex with the silhouette of Bratislava behind it. Egeraat designed his structures to avoid conflict with the height of the buildings,even if the finished product may have strayed from the original plans.The construction drew some critical responses from civil activists,who protested against the loss of urban greenery.Before it became a multifunctional complex, the site was part of the promenade along the Danube River with a stone balustrade. 50 Incheba (exhibition centre)  page 105 48 Chatam Sófer Memorial W map A 3 (pg 30, 62-63, 6) 49 River Park (river-front district) map A 3 (pg 30, 58-59, 70-71) 50 Incheba (exhibition centre), map B 4 (pg 105, 108-109) 51 Most SNP (bridge) W, map B,C 4 (pg 30, 41-43, 60-61, 67, 70-71, 82-83) 52 UFO restaurant, map B,C 4 (pg 30, 60-61, 67, 70-71, 82-83) 53 Sad Janka Kráľa (park), map C,D 4 (pg 72-73) 54 Starý most (bridge), map D 4 (pg 67) 55 Most Apollo (bridge), map E,F 4 (pg 30) 56 Eurovea (river-front district) W map E 4 (pg 31, 53, 54-55, 58-59, 70-71) 57 Slovak National Theatre - New building map E 4 (pg 31, 50-52) 58 Blue Church W, map D 3 (pg 31, 54-55) 59 Kamenné nám. (square), map D 3 (pg 32, 60-61) 60 Church of St Ladislaus, map D 3 (pg 32) 61 Church of St Elisabeth, map D 3 (pg 32) 62 Jewish Synagogue, map D 3 (pg 33, 64-66) 63 Obchodná ul. (Shopping Street), map C 3 (c 2); D 2 (pg 34, 108-109) 64 Great Evangelical Church, map C 2 (pg 33, 64-66) 65 Grassalkovich - Presidential Palace map C 2 (pg 33, 54-55, 64-66, 72-73) 66 Archbishop’s Summer Palace, map C 2 (pg 34) 67 Námestie slobody (Square of Freedom) map C,D 2 (pg 34, 60-61) 68 Slovenskýrozhlas(SlovakRadio) mapD1(pg34,60-61) 69 National Bank of Slovakia, map D 2 (pg 34) 70 Aspremont Palace, map D,E 2 (pg 29) 71 Medická záhrada (Medical Garden), map D,E 2 (pg 54-55, 64-66, 72-73) 72 Main bus station, map E 3 73 Tržnica (market place), map F 1 (pg 60-61) 74 YMCA (multi-cultural hub) map D 1 (pg 56-57, 74-75) 75 Main train station, map C 1 76 Museum of Transport, map C 1 (pg 50-52) 77 Slavín (memorial) W, map B 1 (pg 29, 54-55, 60-61, 64-66, 67) 58 60 61 62 63 67 68 77 69 70 66 65 64 59 55 56 51 52 53 54 50 48 49 57 71 72 73 74 75 76

30 bratislava: WALKING DISTANCE 51 Most SNP W (Bridge of the Slovak National Uprising) 52 UFO restaurant  map B, C 4  0.7-1.1 km (8-13 min)  3.5 km (4 min) u Most SNP (Slovenského národného povstania) v 4, 6, 28, 29, 30, 37, 50, 70, 82, 88, 91, 133, 191, 901 (regional bus to Hainburg, AT) Å +421 (0)2 6252-0300 a Observation Deck & Bar Mon-Sun 10:00-23:00; Restaurant Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00  €6.5 (lift to Observation Deck) ä e é (upon request; access only to the restaurant/bar) WC The construction of the iconic cable-stay bridge suspended over the Danube, between 1967-72, destroyed significant sections of the Old Town and the former Jewish quarter and cut the castle away from the city. Originally named after the Slovak National Uprising (SNP), the bridge was officially renamed the New Bridge between 1993-2012, reflecting the popular name for it among city residents. But it officially reverted back to its original name in 2012. The only pylon of the bridge is topped with a pod in the shape of a flying saucer, and houses a restau- rant 85 metres in the air. The original concept was that the bridge should resemble the driver of a carriage,with the steel cables representing reins and the pylon the driver with a hat. Its ac- tual appearance is best reflected in its colloquial name: the UFO bridge. There is an observation deck above the restaurant offering 360° views across the city and into Aus- tria, made accessible to the public after the fall of the previous regime. 53 Sad Janka Kráľa (park)  pages 72-73 54 Starý most (bridge)  page 67 55 MostApollo (Apollo Bridge)  map E, F 4  2.4 km (30 min)  3.9 km (6 min) u Most Apollo v 50, 68, 87, 88, 95, 801 (regional bus to Rajka, HU) TheApollo Bridge is Bratislava’s long-awaited fifth crossing over the Danube,constructed between 2002-05 to the design of the Slovak architect MiroslavMaťaščík.To save money,the four-lane,cable-stay bridge,with paths for pedestrians and cyclists,was first built on the riverbank before,in September 2004, crews used four tugboats to position the completed bridge across the river.Itwas the first time a bridge this large had been put in place this wayand the operation attracted thousands of spectators.The bridge is named after the refinerythat used to stand nearbyandwhich was destroyed during the Second WorldWar. 56 Eurovea W  Pribinova; map E 4  1.2 km (15 min)  2.7 km (4 min) u Nové SND or Šafárikovo nám. v 28, 133, 801, X13 or 2, 4, 6, 7, 78, 95 Å +421 (0)2 2091-5000 www.eurovea.com a Mon-Sun 10:00-21:00 (shops); Mon-Sun 10:00-2:00 (restaurants/bars) ¯®éä e WC Eurovea is a development of shops, leisure and entertainment areas,on the north bank of the Danube near to the historical city centre and next to the new building of the Slovak NationalTheatre.It has become a popular site for Bratislavans since its opening in 2010,also thanks to a generously designed public space that slopes down to the river.The complex was designed by the Slovak architects Marek Varga,Miroslav Vrábel and Branislav Kaliský and consists of the five-star Sheraton Bratislava Hotel,appartments,as well as airy retail premises and an office complex.A monumental bronze statue of the Slovak statesman Milan Rastislav Štefánik occupies a central square,with a lion standing atop a 27-metre high plinth. 57Slovenskénárod- nédivadlo - Nová budova(Slovak National Theatre - new building)  Pribinova 17; map E 4  1.4 km (18 min)  3.2 km (6 min) u Landererova or Nové SND v 50, 88, 95 or 28, 133, 801, X13 Å +421 (0)2 2047-2111 ¯ ® www.snd.sk a for performances from €4 å é WC Eurovea

bratislava: WALKING DISTANCE 31 Few constructions in contemporary Bratislava took as long to complete as the new building of the Slovak NationalTheatre (SND),by the Slovak architects Martin Kusý, Pavol Paňák and Peter Bauer.Its construction lasted 21 years and spanned two regimes,starting under the communists inApril 1986 and finishing inApril 2007.It is tiled with famous Spiš travertine,the last pieces from a pit in eastern Slovakia. The building has seven floors, more than 2,000 rooms and three main halls,for opera,ballet and theatre,as well as a studio.It is also packed with innovations,including an unusual air-conditioning system that blows air from the audience’s armrests.Anumber of exterior and interiorworks of art embellish the building,including a fountain at the front created byAlexander Biľkovič, Iľja Skoček and Pavel Bauer; awater- fall byPeter Roller and two towers by the architect Bauer.The spring in the lobbyis also thework of Bauer and the painter Dušan Buřil. 58 Modrý kostolík (Blue Church) W  Bezručova 2; map D 3  0.9 km (11 min)  3 km (6 min) u Šafárikovo námestie v 2, 4, 6, 7, 78, 95, X13 Å +421 (0)2 5273-3573 a Mon-Sun 8:00-19:00 (entrance hall) U Mon-Sat 7:00, 18:00; Sun 8:00, 9:30, 11:00, 18:00 voluntary St Elizabeth’s Church,commonly known as the Blue Church,is one of fewexamples of art nouveau architecture in Bratislava.Itwas built between 1909–13 according to plans bythe Hungarian architect Edmund Lechner andwas initially intended to be a chapel for students from the nearbyhigh school.It is dedicated to St Elizabeth of Hungary,daughter of KingAndrewII of the Árpád family, whowas probablyborn in Bratislava Castle in 1207.Its familiar name is drawn from the colour that dominates both its interior and façade: it is decked in a pastel blue mixedwith white elements,and patterned with flowers and leaves.The church remains in use todayand is a popular site forwedding ceremonies. 59 Kamenné nám. (Kamenné Square)  map D 3  0.6 km (7 min)  2.3 km (6 min) u Kamenné námestie or Rajská v 3, 4, 9 or 202, 205 é ä e WC Developers,architecture experts and city administrators continue to squabble about the future of Kamenné námestie,one of Bratislava’s busiest central squares, but which has been waiting for refurbishment for manyyears. Currently the central features of the square are a department store built in 1968 (now housing a branch ofTesco) and the adjacent Kyjev Hotel (1973),both examples of Slovak modernist architecture by Ivan Matušík and both registered with the Documentation and Conservation of Buildings,Sites and Neighbourhoods of the Modern Movement (DOCOMOMO),an international organisation aimed at research,documentation, promotion and preservation of Modern Movement architecture. Hotel Kyjev used to be one of the most prominent and visited hotels in Bratislava,and even after the fall of the communist regime and a change in owners,it served as a low-cost hotel enabling visitors to sample the atmosphere and design of the previous regime.However, since late 2011 it has been closed completely and its future is unclear. Various civic initiatives have also centred on the square,mainly intended to prevent extensive re-building of the area.In 2013 a project called “Adopt a Pot” invited people to assume responsibility for one of the neglected pots on the square,plant flowers in it and take care of it during the summer. Kamenné námestie

32 bratislava: WALKING DISTANCE 60 Kostol sv.Ladislava (Church of St Ladislaus)  Špitálska 5; map D 3  0.5 km (6 min)  2 km (5 min) u Kamenné námestie v 3, 4, 9 Å +421 (0)2 5296-7598a Mon-Sun 8:30-18:30 (entrance hall) U Mon-Sat 17:30 Sun 9:30, 11:00 (mass in English), 17:30 voluntary The classicist Church of St Ladislaus, designed by Ignác Feigler in the 1830s,is the third sacral building to occupy the site.Originally the Order ofAntonites had a hospital here, adjoining a chapel and monastery, which remained until a new hospital building,comprising the first St Ladislaus,took its place in 1397.In the 15th century,the complex was seriously damaged during Hussite attacks,but was restored and remained until 1529,when it was pulled down as the city began preparations to defend itself against the Ottomans.The new hospital was built in 1543,but by the early 19th century has fallen into dereliction.It was replaced by the current church, albeit with a plain white interior.In 1927 the church painter J.Grünwild covered its walls with figurative paintings,supressing the classicist character of the construction. The main altar features a painting by the Viennese painter Ferdinand Lütgendorf from 1830. 61 Kostol svätej Alžbety (Church of St Elizabeth)  Špitálska 21; map D 3  0.6 km (7 min)  2 km (5 min) u Kamenné námestie v 3, 4, 9 Å +421 (0)2 5924-9630 a Mon-Fri 5:30-18:30 Sat-Sun 6:30-19:00 (entrance hall) U Mon-Fri 6:00 Sat 7:00, 18:00 Sun 7:00, 9:00, 18:00 voluntary The baroque Church of St Elizabeth was commissioned by Archbishop Imrich Esterházy and constructed between 1739-42 to the plans drawn up by the Vienna-based architect Franz A. Pilgram.The single nave church is decorated with paintings by the Austrian artist Paul Troger, as well as sculptures of St Stephan, St Ladislaus and St Elizabeth with a beggar.The latter are works by Ľudovít Gode, a contemporary of the prominent baroque sculptor G. R. Donner.The Order of Saint Elizabeth continues to care for seriously ill patients in their own hospital, the Oncological Institute of St Elizabeth, which is adjacent to the church. 62 Židovská synagóga (Jewish Synagogue)  Heydukova 11-13; map D 3  0.6 m (7 min)  3 km (6 min) u Námestie SNP v 2, 7, 8, 9 Å +421 (0)2 5441-6949 G www.synagogue.sk a Community Museum May 20 - Oct 9 Fri, Sun 10:00-16:00 (except Jewish holidays) €6 e WC The synagogue on Heydukova Street is the only remaining synagogue in Bratislava, designed and built in 1923-26 by the Bratislava-based Jewish architect Arthur Szalatnay-Slatinský. Its construction was in response to the increasing number of Jewish residents in Bratislava, which reached 10,973 in 1921.The interior combines the innovative design of reinforced concrete and contemporary details with Cubist elements and also meets traditional religious requirements, such as separation of men and women and placement of the bimah in the centre. The synagogue still serves as an active Jewish house of worship and in 2012 was extended to house the Bratisla- va Jewish Community Museum. It is located in the synagogue’s disused women’s gallery and in- cludes key items from the Judaica collection of the Bratislava Jewish community as well as other objects – some of them associated with the Holocaust – donated by individual commu- nity mem- bers. 63 Obchodná ulica (Shopping Street)  map C 3 (c 2); D 2  0.5 km (6 min) u Poštová v 2, 5, 7, 8 www.obchodnaulica.sk a Mon-Sat 9:00-20:00 (shops generally) ä å e Obchodná ulica,which literally translates as the “Shopping Street”, is one the oldest streets outside the historical centre of Bratislava, mentioned for the first time in documents from the 13th century. It leads from Michael’s Gate up to Kollárovo námestie and before the likes of Polus,Aupark and Eurovea were built was, as its name suggests,where Bratislavans did their shopping. 64Veľký evanjelický kostol (Great Evangelical Church)  Panenská 28; map C 2  0.8 km (8 min) u Hodžovo námestie v 34, 83, 84, 93, 147, 184, 203, 206, 207, 208, 212, X13 U Sun 10:00 Å +421 (0)2 5441-4604 ¯  voluntary The baroque-classicist Great Evangelical Church was built between 1774-76 to cater for the ever- growing church congregation sizes of the 18th century.Empress Maria Theresa granted special consent permitting construction of the church on Panenská Street,but only on the condition that the church remained modest in decoration and Church of St Elizabeth

bratislava: WALKING DISTANCE 33 without a bell-tower.The architect Matias Walch built the church with a central space with a pulpit altar by Peter Brandenthal and two floors of choirs below the monumental vaults of the ceiling.The church is also known for its outstanding acoustic qualities and hosts regular concerts as well as still being one of the key centres for Evangelical worshippers in Bratislava. 65 Grasalkovičov - Prezidentský palác (The Grassalkovich - Presidential Palace) Hodžovonámestie1;mapC20.7km(9min) uHodžovonámestiev34,83,84,93,147,184,203, 206,207,208,212,X13free aPark/GardenOct-MarMon-Sun10:00-19:00; Apr-MayMon-Sun10:00-20:00;Jun-SepMon-Sun 8:00-22:00;Palaceisopentothepubliconlyonceayear duringofficialPresidentialOpenDay,usuallyinJune Bratislava’s Presidential Palace dates from 1760 andwas formerlyowned byCountAnton Grassalkovich,an advisor to Empress MariaTheresa and the chairman of the Hungarian Royal Chamber.Originally,the late-baroque summer palace would have been at the centre of the city’s high society,but has subsequentlybeen adapted for various purposes.During the previous totalitarian regime itwas turned into the Klement Gottwald House of Pioneers andYouth,i.e., a facilitywhere schoolchildren could spend their free time.After the fall of the communist regime in 1989 it underwent an extensive reconstruction and became the seat of the Slovak president.The rear part of the park is accessible to the public. 66 Letný arcibiskupský palác (Archbishop’s Summer Palace)  Námestie slobody 1; map C 2  1.2 km (15 min)  0.7 km (2 min) u Štefanovičova v 203 a exterior views only What is now known as the Archbishop’s Summer Palace was commissioned byArchbishop Ferenc Forgách in the 17th century and underwent several stages of rebuilding and refurbishment until it reached its current form: a baroque façade,with a rococo interior.The architect F.A. Hillebrandt made the last significant changes to building, adding a columned hall with an upper terrace, a portico in front of the main entrance and the massive double-armed staircase carried by muscular figures of Atlas on the garden side. The historical building,and its extensions from the mid-1970s, now serve as the seat of the Slovak government and is accessible to the public only during special occasions.Slovak prime ministers have not been able to resist the temptation to leave their own mark on the building: Mikuláš Dzurinda, for instance,ordered a replica of the fireplace from the White House to be added before George W.Bush visited Slovakia in February 2005, and although Iveta Radičová hid a majolica tablet depicting Slovak outlaw Juraj Jánošík,Robert Fico has brought the piece back to light again. 67 Námestie slobody (Square of Freedom)  map C, D 2  1.2 km (15 min)  0.7 km (2 min) u Námestie 1. mája v 31, 34, 39, 94 ä å What is now known as Square of Freedom originally dates from the 17th century,when the Archbishop’s Summer Palace, now the headquarters of the Slovak government,would have been one of the only buildings surrounding it.These days it is also flanked by buildings of the Slovak University of Technology and the Ministry of Transport. During the previous communist regime the square bore the name of the notorious former president Klement Gottwald, and also housed a huge stone statue of him,which was removed in 1990.The biggest fountain in Bratislava, named Družba (Druzhba or “Friendship”) has stood at the square’s centre since 1980, but has been out of order for years and awaiting reconstruction. Presidential Palace

34 bratislava: WALKING DISTANCE 68 Slovenský rozhlas (Slovak Radio)  Mýtna 1; map D 1  1.5 km (19 min)  0.8 km (2 min) u Slovenská technická univerzita v 2, 5, 7, 8, 31, 34, 39, 94 Å +421 (0)2 5727-3624 ¯ www.rozhlas.sk a for performances from €5 ä WC It is impossible to miss the distinc- tive upside-down pyramid-shaped building opposite the offices of the National Bank of Slovakia.This was the headquarters of Slovakia’s public-service radio,designed by the Slovak architect Štefan Svetko (and others) and built between 1963-85. Ironically,Svetko was not invited to the official opening of his building due to his critical opinions of the communist regime. The structure is one of the first steel buildings in Slovakia,reaching 61 metres into the Bratislava sky,with an antenna add- ing a further 19 metres.It contains generous inner spaces,including an excellent concert hall,with one of the biggest organs in Slovakia,and recording studios.Six radio stations still broadcast from the tower and public concerts are held. 69 Národná banka Slovenska (National Bank of Slovakia)  Imricha Karvaša 1; map D 2  1.5 km (19 min)  0.8 km (2 min) u Slovenská technická univerzita v 2, 5, 7, 8, 31, 34, 39, 94 Å +421 (0)2 5787-1111 www.nbs.sk aCentral Cash-desk Mon-Fri 7:30-12:00 The new headquarters of the National Bank of Slovakia occupy the tallest building in Bratislava – a 111m high structure with 33 floors above ground and three below,with a helipad on top.The building was designed by the Slovak architects Martin Kusý and Pavol Paňák and opened in 2002.There are 23 elevators in the building, including six glazed high-speed elevators for personal service with a view over the capital (for those who do not suffer from dizziness). In the centre of the lower part of the building, there is an atrium with a green area, creating a contrast with the modern glass and concrete architecture. 70Aspremontov palác (Aspremont Summer Palace)  Špitálska 24; map D,E 2  1 km (12 min)  1.4 km (4 min) u Americké námestie or Špitálska v 3, 4, 9, 207, 212 or 206, 208 a Palace - exterior views only; Medická záhrada (garden) Apr-Sep 7:00-21:00, Oct-Mar Mon-Wed 10:00-18:00, Thu-Sun 10:00-18:00 Aspremont Summer Palace is one of the most beautiful garden palaces in Bratislava,designed and built in 1769 by Johann JosephTallher.It stands in a baroque garden owned by the French count Johann Gobert ofAspremont.The palace façades and interiors were influenced by the décor of Louis XVI and the palace also includes a late baroque style chapel featuring paintings depicting Old and NewTestament allegory,plus anAltar of the Crucifixion fashioned from white and red marble. CountAspremont was a de- scendant of the famous Hungarian magnate families of Rákóczi and Báthory,but he sold the palace after 10 years to the Esterházy family, and it remained their property for nearly 100 years.(It was commonly known as Esterházy or Schiffbeck Palace.) MariaTheresa often stayed here while in Bratislava.Nowadays the palace houses the office of the dean of the Faculty of Medicine of Comenius University and most locals refer to the Medická záhrada (Medical Garden),the public garden in which the palace is located,rather than the structure itself. 71 Medická záhrada (Medical Garden)  pages 54-55 72 Main bus station  Mlynské Nivy 31, Bratislava 73Tržnica (market place)  pages 60-61 74YMCA (multi-cultural hub)  pages 56-57 75 Maintrainstation  Predstaničné námestie 1, Bratislava 76 Museum ofTransport  pages 50-52 77 Slavín W  Na Slavíne; map B 1  2 km (30 min)  1.8 km (4 min) u Búdková v 41, 147, 203, 207a non-stop free The Slavín monument remembers the lives of the 6,845 Soviet soldiers who died during the lib- eration of Bratislava in April 1945, many of whom are buried in six mass and 278 individual graves. The monument was designed by the Slovak sculptor and ar- chitect Ján Svetlík and was built between 1957-60 to be officially unveiled on April 4, 1960, the 15th anniversary of the liberation. On the same day every year since, representatives of the Slovak government and the Russian Em- bassy lay wreaths to commemo- rate the victims. The central and dominant section of Slavín is a ceremonial hall tiled with marble, which is surrounded by a monumental colonnade. The entrance door is decorated with a bronze relief by Rudolf Pribiš. Above the ceremo- nial room there is a monumental granite pillar, towering 39.5m, and topped by an 11m-tall sculpture, designed by Alexander Trizuljak and depicting a soldier carrying a flag and crushing the Nazi swas- tika beneath his boot. A list of Slovak towns liber- ated by the Red Army adorn the walls of the memorial’s basement. The monument is surrounded by a park containing trees from various parts of the former Soviet Union. Slavín also affords spectacular views over major parts of Bratislava, includ- ing Bratislava Castle.

www.visitbratislava.com Cultural Summer at the Main Square J.K. Mertz Guitar Festival Music on the Danube Fashion in the City Cathedral Organ Festival Knights in Devín Walk of Fame Minority Cultural Summer International Festival of Children‘s Folklore Ensembles Get to know the news and attractions of the modern city on the Danube at

90 81 91 82 92 83 93 84 94 85 95 96 87 97 88 98 89 99 78 Lourdes cave (Church of Our Lady of the Snows), pg 62-63 79 Horský Park (park), pg 72-73 80a Sandberg (sandstone hill), pg 37, 74-75 80b Volkswagen (car plant), pg 37, 68-69 81 Devín Castle, pg 37, 50-52, 54-55, 60-61, 64-66 82 Botanical Garden, pg 72-73 83 ZOO, pg 84-85 84 Iron Spring (Železná studienka), pg 37, 72-73 85 Kamzík (TV tower), pg 38, 67, 72-73 86 Atlantis Science Centre, pg 84-85 87 Ondrej Nepela Arena (hockey stadium), pg 38 88 National Tenis Centre, pg 105 89 Kuchajda (lake), pg 72-73, 53 90 Zlaté Piesky (lake), pg 39, 72-73 91 M. R. Štefánik Airport, pg 39 92 Divadlo Aréna (theatre) 93 Petržalka (estate housing), pg 32, 60-61, 64-66 94 B-S 8 Hřbitov (museum), pg 60-61 95 Veľký Draždiak (lake) and Hotel Bonbón, pg 72-73, 74-75, 53 96 Gerulata (museum), pg 38, 50-52, 84-85 97 Rusovce Manor House, pg 38 98 Divoká voda (rafting), pg 68-69, 70-71 99 Danubiana Meulensteen Art Museum, pg 38, 50-52, 53, 54-55, 70-71 = 0.9 mile 0 0.6 1.2 1.9 2.5 3.1 mile 86 79 78 80b 80a

bratislava: AROUND THE CITY 37 78 Lourdes cave (Church of Our Lady of the Snows)  pages 62-63 79 Horský Park (park)  pages 72-73 80a Sandberg  Devínska Nová Ves, Bratislava  16 km (20 min) u Sandberg v 28, 128 A demanding uphill walk above Devínska Nová Ves will take the traveller to the Sandberg lookout, with views of the Danube,Morava rivers and as far as the Palace Schloss Hof inAustria.Sandberg is the site of some significant paleontological finds,including the bones of prehistoric sharks and seals.The area is known as the “Slovak desert” for its sandy deposits. 80bVolkswagen W (car plant)  Jána Jonáša 1, Bratislava  24 km (18 min)  Volkswagen 21, 24, 25, 26, 92  +421 (0)2 6964 6964 sk.volkswagen.sk  Mon-Fri 8:00-18:00 (visits must be arranged at least one day in advance via phone or email – visit@volkswagen.sk; group size: 5-15 people; age requirement: 12; tours in Sk, G, E)€4 solid boots required The plant of Volkswagen in Bratislava offers special programmes for tourists.After getting special head- phones for both noise protection and to hear the guide when the tour makes its way directly through production halls during working hours,the mechanically- inclined can observe selected parts of the Bratislava-based Volkswagen’s body shop,as well as production and press halls.Visitors can directly watch workers create what will be a future car.The company also organises specialThink Blue.Factory. tours,which focus on environmen- tal-driven technologies.Another option for visitors is a special drive with an electric car or on an off-road course.For the off-road,the company uses specially modified vehicle at a track which simulates various tough terrains,from a wooden roadway, through sand,water and steps,to hills at various gradients.Visitors can either travel as a passenger or take a turn behind the wheel with the help of an instructor. 81 Hrad Devín W (Devín Castle)  Muránská  11 km (12 min) u Hrad Devín v 29; during the summer season, boats operate from the port in Bratislava to Devín Castle Å +421 (0)2 6573-0105 G www.muzeum.bratislava.sk a Nov-Mar Mon-Sun 10:00-15:30 (entry possible only in good weather); Apr, Oct Tue-Sun 10:00-16:30; May-Sep Tue-Fri 10:00-17:30; Sat-Sun 10:00-18:30 €3 é e (partial access; except castle tower) WC The Devín Castle,perched on a rocky cliff at the confluence of the Danube and Morava Rivers,is one of the oldest castles in Slovakia and one of its best known.Its perfect strategic location has attracted settlers since prehistoric times,and it has played an important role in the country’s military and cultural development.It remains a vivid symbol of Slovakia’s history. The first written record of Devín dates from 864,when a place named Dowina is mentioned in documents belonging to Fulda monastery.At that time it was a border fortress and one of the political and administrative centres of the Great Moravian Empire. However,the oldest artefacts found on the site date from the StoneAge, when the cliff was settled byvarious tribes.The Celts arrived and settled in the region in the 1st centuryAD, followed by the Romans.Some ruins of Roman buildings have been found here. After the fall of the Great Moravian Empire,the owners of the castle changed frequently and each gradually developed and extended it. In the 15th century the castle became the property of the Garay fam- ily,who built a palace inside the fortifications and modernised the walls around.Between 1527 and 1605,it was home to the Báthorys, who built a new palace wing in the area of the middle castle and who transformed the whole complex into the Renaissance style.The castle then became the property of the Pálffys,who were the last noble family to occupy it.Devín was no longer used as a residence from the 18th century,and subsequently it began to deteriorate.Its decline was complete in 1809 when Napoleonic armies besieged it,and blew up large portions. As the Slovak nation gradually came into being in the first half of the 19th century,however,the Devín Castle became a symbol of the national awakening,and some of its fame was restored.Various sensitive reconstruction projects throughout the 20th century have helped to offer the contemporaryvisitor a sense of the place’s former majesty. When visiting the castle ruins nowadays,visitors can see pieces of preserved Roman architecture plus remains of the Báthory and Garay palaces.The gothic tower palace also peaks above the whole castle area, which is still circled by fortification walls.Visitors can see the remains of the Great Moravian church from the 9th century,and although only its foundations marked by stones can be seen nowadays,there is a model depicting how the rectangular church with a trefoil apse may have looked.The whole area offers an excellent view over the Danube and intoAustria. Devín’s most iconic feature is the so-calledVirginTower,a small late Renaissance tower at the castle’s extremity,jutting out over the river path.It is the setting for numerous myths and legends,some ofwhich are detailed in the museum about the castle’s historythat can be found in its best preserved parts.There is also information about howDevín conqueredwater leaking into the placewhich is common in buildings of its age.A 55m-deepwell,probably built bythe Garays,can still be seen in the castle grounds. 82 Botanical Garden pages 72-73 83 ZOO  pages 84-85 84 Železná studienka (Iron Spring)  Železná studienka  5 km (6 min) u Vojenská nemocnica v 130, 211, 212, 43 (bus 43 offers daily service for all area but do not get out on the Vojenská nemocnica stop) å WC Å +421 (0)2 4425-9188 (cablecar); +421 (0)944 056-309 (fishing) +421 (0)2 5443-3715 (rowing)a Thu-Sun 10:00-17:45 each hour (cablecar); daily 7:00-19:00 during summer season only (fishing); Sat-Sun 12:00-20:00 during summer season only (rowing) €4 (cablecar - return ticket); €10 per day (fishing); €3 per 30 min (rowing)

38 bratislava: AROUND THE CITY Železná studienka (Iron Spring) area, near the Kramáre district, is a meandering valley popular in the summer with picnickers centred on a chain of linked man-made lakes. Passing under the red steel railway bridge,visitors are greeted by a large playground, including fields for football,volleyball, basketball, pétanque and table tennis. It’s easy to spot people sitting on the banks, rowing and fishing. Surrounding the lakes are paths and parks that are immensely popular with families on the weekends. The valley also provides jungle gyms for kids and several outdoor refreshment stands.A cableway connects Železná studienka with area close to the Kamzík TVTower. 85 Kamzík (TVTower)  Cesta na Kamzík  6.1 km (12 min) u Koliba v 44, 203 Å +421 (0)2 4425-6946 ä www.altitude.sk (Restaurant) a ä Mon-Sun 11:00-22:00; Cablecar Železná studnička - Kamzík Thu-Sun 10:00-17:45 (each hour) Cablecar €4 (return ticket) ä WC The 194-metre Kamzík television tower,built in 1975,is the tallest structure in Bratislava and is often the first building seen byvisitors to the city,visible from almost all of the access roads.During goodweather, views from the top stretch into the Czech Republic,Austria,Hungary and even over the snow-capped peaks of theAlps.The tower is located on Kamzík hill (“Chamois hill”),about 15 minutes from citycentre bybus, followed bya 20 minutewalk.The tower is made of reinforced concrete and steel columns and its unique pyramidal shape helps to overcome the horizontal load. A gourmet restaurant 70 metres up the tower offers panoramic views of Bratislava,with a rotating floor that provides 360° views from the table. Despite advancements in broadcasting technology,Kamzík continues to be used as a television transmission tower.It has 15 plat- forms from the uppermost labelled “A” to the lowest floor “O”.On plat- form “J” there is a 24-hour central monitoring system station,which controls the quality of all television transmitters in Slovakia. 86Atlantis Science Centre  pages 84-85 87 Zimný štadión Ondreja Nepelu (Ondrej Nepela Arena)  Odbojárov 9 3 km (8 min) u Zimný štadión v 39, 53, 61, 63, 74, 78, 204, 205, 212 Å +421 (0)2 4910-3202 ¯ www.nepela-arena.eu a for performances/hockey games from €10 åé WC The main hockey stadium in Bratislava,officially named after Ondrej Nepela (1951-1989),a Slovak Olympic gold medallist and three- time world champion figure skater, was extensively rebuilt prior to the Ice HockeyWorld Championships hosted by Bratislava and Košice in 2011.Sometimes called the Slovnaft Arena,after the sponsors of the Slovak hockey team,the main arena covers an area of more than 10,000 square metres and can hold nearly 10,000 spectators.The stadium’s tenants,HC Slovan Bratislava,used to play in the KHL (Kontinental Hockey League),the European sister of the NHL.The stadium has also hosted concerts by such stars as Beyoncé,Sting,BryanAdams and José Carreras. 88 NationalTenis Centre  page 105 89 Kuchajda (lake)  pages 72-73 90 Zlaté Piesky (lake)  Zlaté Piesky  10 km (19 min) u Zlaté piesky v 4, 53, 56, 57, 65 Å +421 (0)2 4425-7018 non-stop €2 (admission fee only during summer season Jun 22 - Sep 1 Mon-Sun 9:00-19:00) WC It costs €2 to access thiswell-known Bratislava lake,close to the airport, but is open long hours (9am-6pm during the summer season) and iswell served byrestaurants and refreshment counters.It is possible to rent a paddle boat orwater bikes or to playtennis here. The lake is easily accessible bypublic transport: take tram 4 to the end of the line,turn right,cross the street,andyou are there.The nearbyShopping Palace mall provides further shopping and dining opportunities.Zlaté Piesky also offerswater-skiing aswell as free access to an unofficial nudists’ bathing beach on the eastern shore. 91 Letisko M.R.Štefánika (M. R. Štefánik Airport)  Ivánska cesta 2 10 km (20 min); distance to Vienna Airport: 50 km (50 min) u Letisko Milana Rastislava Štefánika v 61, 96 Å +421 (0)2 3303-3353 www.bts.aero BratislavaAirport,named after the prominent Slovak politician, diplomat,and astronomer Milan Rastislav Štefánik,is the biggest international airport in the country,located about 20 minutes from Bratislava city centre.It was originally opened in 1951, but has undergone extensive reconstructions and refurbishment since.Two new terminals were completed in 2012,which increased its annual capacity to five million people. The main departure terminal is decorated by the only existing life- size replica of the biplane Caproni Ca 33,on which Štefánik was killed when it crashed on May 4,1919. 92 DivadloAréna (the- atre)  Viedenská cesta 10 Å +421(2) 6720- 2557 ® www.divadloarena.ska for performances 93 Petržalka map A 4–F 4 www.petrzalka.sk; www.divadloarena.sk; www.aupark-bratislava.sk; www.bunker.bs8.sk; www.zavodisko.sk; www.mpo.sk Bratislava’s – and Slovakia’s – largest high-rise suburb houses some 100,000 people,almost a quarter of the inhabitants of the city.It may be hard to believe,but before the 1970s Petržalkawas a picturesque village full of gardens and fruit orchards.Todayit is a combination of modern architecture (mostlybuilt

bratislava: AROUND THE CITY 39 along the highwayand Panónska Street) and ‘paneláks’,pre-fabricated concrete blocks of flats in housing projects that have been criticised by both inhabitants and architectural experts for their run-down condition and flawed design.Manytraditional paneláks have alreadyundergone reconstruction,duringwhich they have given thermal insulation beneath colourful exterior paint- jobs,turning the one-time grey suburb into a palette of primary colours. The suburb extends along the south bank of the Danube,an area that also boasts Sad Janka Kráľa park, containing theArenaTheatre,aswell as several restaurants,boat bars and theAupark shopping centre.Bratis- lava’s racecourse is also here,aswell as several militarybunkers,built in the 1930s bythe then-Czechoslovak government as part of a defence system along its borders.Originally intended to repel a Nazi invasion, theylater became part of the Iron Curtain dividing the capitalistWest from the communist East. 94 B-S 8 Hřbitov (museum)  pages 60-61 95Veľký Draždiak (lake)  pages 72-73) 96 Gerulata  Gerulatská 69, Rusovce  13 km (14 min) u Gerulata v 91, 191, 801 (regional bus to Rajka, HU) Å +421 (0)2 6285-9332  www.muzeum.bratislava.sk a Apr-Oct Tue-Sun 10:00-16:45 €2.30 e WC Gerulatawas once a Roman militarycamp,located inwhat is nowRusovce.It formed part of the so-called “Limes Romanus”, the 3,000km-long border defence system of the ancient Roman Empire and,as such,was part of a unique European chain of fortifications.Other sites of the Limes Romanus are included on the UNESCOWorld Heritage List,and some in Slovakia hope the privilege can be extended to Gerulata. The camp dates from between the 2nd-4th centuriesAD but its remains were only uncovered in the 1960s,when some industrial workers noticed the remnants of some stone pillars.There are some records of a camp here from the 16th century,but otherwise little is known about the site. Present dayvisitors can see the foundations of the ancient buildings as well as other archaeo- logical findings,including stone altars and some monuments with rich figural and herbal decoration.There are also some other artefacts discovered on the site displayed in the exhibition showroom. 97 Kaštieľ Rusovce (Rusovce Manor House)  Balkánska, Rusovce  13.2 km (15 min) u Kaštieľ Rusovce v 91, 191 a exterior views only The neo-classical manor house in Rusovce,built in the so-called “Windsor” style amid an English park,is currently only a shadow of its former self,mired in arguments over ownership and refurbishment that have kept it doors closed to the public. Historical documents suggest that a castle stood on this site since the 13th century,then a manor house from 1521,even though the current design is a result of renovations in the mid-19th century.It was owned for the first part of the 20th century by the Hungarian Prince Elemér Lónyay,who bequeathed it to the Benedictine Order on his death in 1946.It latterly fell into the hands of the state and into stasis.Conservationists now list the house among the 10 most endangered historical sites in Slovakia. 98 Divokávoda (rafting)  pages 68-69 99 Danubiana Múzeum moderného umenia (Danubiana Meulensteen Art Museum) W  Čunovo  18.5 km (20 min) u Areál vodných športov Čunovo v 90 Å +421 (0)2 6252-8501 www.danubiana.sk a May-Sep Tue-Sun 11:00-19:00; Oct-Apr Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00 €8 e é WC The Danubiana MeulensteenArt Museum,situated on a man-made peninsula on the Danube near the village of Čunovo,was founded by a Dutch entrepreneur,collector and patron of art named Gerard H.Meulensteen,and the Slovak gallerist Vincent Polakovič.Itwas built in the shape of a Roman galley to the design bythe architect Peter Žalman.Since 2000 it has held dozens of exhibitions of modern art, including internationallyrenowned artists,and has beenvisited bythe Spanish King Juan Carlos I,Queen Beatrix of the Netherlands and the French actress Catherine Deneuve, among others. Danubiana added a number of exhibition spaces during reconstruction that ended September 2014,which transform it into the largest modern art museum in Slovakia.The new spaces contain permanent exhibitions of the Meulensteen and Danubiana’s collections. Photo: Courtesy of Danubiana Photo: Courtesy of Danubiana

BRATISLAVA  ACCESSIBILITY | INNOVATION | EXECUTION Surveys of Meetings and Events Professionalsconstantlyrankacces- sibility as the No. 1 criteria for desti- nation selection and, in this regard, Bratislava is surprisingly close. You can get to Slovakia’s capital in 40 minutes from Vienna airport, or in 20 minutes from Bratislava airport to the city center. And when you’re there you’ll find yourself in a safe, easy-to- getaround, buzzy, compact city where old town beauty and modern urbanity sit side by side. Bratislava is also an exceptional- ly smart city with a bourgeoning start-up eco-system and a stellar global reputation as an innova- tion hub. Bratislava based ESET is a world leader in anti-virus soft- ware while Pixel Federation, founded in the city in 2007, de- velops online games played in over 200 countries in the world. Re- nowned as an automotive hub, Bratislava has also spawned Aer- omobil, the makers of the world’s first flying car. But Bratislava is also an innovator in the Meetings and Events industry. Sli.do, the ground breaking audience engagement platform, was born and raised in this exceptionally smart city. Meeting professionals know the importance of exceptional exe- cution. Strategies and plans are always essential but without great execution, they’re useless. Without precision, attention to detail and total focus, great strategies go awry and brilliant plans come to nothing. Many global automotive leaders have chosen to locate sev- eral massive plants in and around the city, because for them excep- tional execution based on skilled and well-educated human resourc- es is a non-negotiable prerequisite. The Bratislava production plant of Volkswagen, for example, is con- sidered one of the most modern such facilities in the world in terms of automation and use of robotics. About Bratislava Convention Bureau The Bratislava Convention Bureau, as a department of our official Des- tination Marketing Organization, the Bratislava Tourist Board, is a one-stop-shop for planners of meetings, incentives, congresses and events who are considering Bratislava as a destination. Pro- viding a full range of services for buyers of MICE, BTB also co-ordi- nates, initiates and manages all as- pects concerning the development of MICE and Business Events in our destination. We provide the following services: initial event planning - hotel and venue recommendations advisory, local expertise and consultancy for MICE organizers active networking platform arrangements of site-inspec- tions based on customer requirements promotional materials and dig- ital imagery ACCESSIBILITY | INNOVATION | EXECUTION SURPRISINGLY CLOSE | EXCEPTIONALLY SMART Bratislava Convention Bureau departmet Bratislava Tourist Board Šafárikovo námestie 3, 811 02 Bratislava, SLOVAKIA www.bratislavacvb.sk BRATISLAVA Surveys of Meetings and Events Professionals constantly rank accessibility as the No.1 criteria for destination selection and,in this regard,Bratislava is surprisingly close.You can get to Slovakia’s capital in 40 minutes from Vienna airport, or in 20 minutes from Bratislava airport to the city center. And when you’re there you’ll find yourself in a safe,easy-to- getaround,buzzy,compact city where old town beauty and modern urbanity sit side by side. Bratislava is also an exceptionally smart citywith a bourgeoning start-up eco-system and a stellar global reputation as an innovation hub.Bratislava based ESET is a world leader in anti-virus software while Pixel Federation, founded in the city in 2007,develops online games played in over 200 countries in the world. Renowned as an automotive hub,Bratislava has also spawned Aeromobil,the makers of the world’s first flying car.But Bratislava is also an innovator in the Meetings and Events industry.Sli.do,the ground breaking audience engagement platform,was born and raised in this exceptionally smart city. Meeting professionals know the importance of exceptional execution.Strategies and plans are always essential but without great execution,they’re useless.Without precision,attention to detail and total focus,great strategies go awry and brilliant plans come to nothing.Many global automotive leaders have chosen to locate several massive plants in and around the city,because for them exceptional execution based on skilled and well-educated human resources is a non-negotiable prerequisite. The Bratislava production plant of Volkswagen,for example,is considered one of the most modern such facilities in the world in terms of automation and use of robotics. About brAtislAvA Convention bureAu The Bratislava Convention Bureau,as a department of our official Destination Marketing Organization,the Bratislava Tourist Board,is a one-stop- shop for planners of meetings, incentives,congresses and events who are considering Bratislava as a destination.Providing a full range of services for buyers of MICE,BTB also co-ordinates,initiates and manages all aspects concerning the development of MICE and Business Events in our destination. We providethe folloWing serviCes: n initial event planning - hotel and venue recommendations n advisory,local expertise and consultancy for MICE organizers n active networking platform n arrangements of site-inspections based on customer n requirements n promotional materials and digital imagery BRATISLAVA ACCESSIBILITY | INNOVATION | EXECUTION bratislava Convention bureau departmet BratislavaTourist Board Šafárikovo námestie 3,811 02 Bratislava,SLOVAKIA www.bratislavacvb.sk BRATISLAVA

bratislava: changes 41 When strolling through Hviezdoslavovo Námestie,it is easy to be swept awayin the square’s tranquil atmosphere and lovely historical buildings.The tree- lined,cobblestoned promenade is irresistible,while the castle in the distance beckons from its majestic hilltop setting.But suddenly,the square ends andyou are standing at the side of a busyfreeway.To the left,a suspension bridge crossing the Danube is capped bysomething resembling a flying saucer from a 1950s sci-fi film.Directlybelowthe road is a noisy,graffiti-encrusted bus depot.Looking over the traffic to the right,you startwondering howyou’re supposed to reach the castle on the other side.You wouldn’t be the first to stand at this odd collision of old and new,and wonder,“What the hell happened here?” It is clear to anyonewho has spent time in Bratislava that the ancient citystraddling the Danube possesses manycharms. Yet Bratislava sometimes gets brief and ambivalentwrite-ups in major travel guides,and tourists rarely visit the cityfor more than a day. One explanation for this apparent neglect is that the communists reallyworked Bratislava over,using it as a testing-ground for creating a model,modernised communist city. Unfortunately,thiswas donewith a pathological disregard for the city’s rich history,and large swaths of Bratislava’s historical sectionswere demolished and redeveloped as the communists sawfit. It has been said that Bratislava suffered more damage under com- munism than during SecondWorld War,and that a third of its historical centrewas destroyed.Manytra- vellers come to Europe to revel in its stunning oldworld charm,but sadly find much of Bratislava either ruined or absent entirely. Roughlya quarter of Bratislava’s Staré Mesto (OldTown) was bulldozed in the late 1960s for a single project: the Most SNP (SNP Bridge known also as the NovýMost – New– Bridge),and the short stretch of freewayconnected to it,called Staromestská.Dubbed the “UFO Bridge” for its obvious sci-fi aesthetic,it is a major artery, bringing traffic across the Danube, in and out of the Staré Mesto,while Staromestská links the bridgewith the busyintersection just north of the historical centre. To make space for this development,much of the city’s centuries-old,historical Jewish quarterwas razed,including the 19th-centuryMoorish-styled Neolog Synagogue.The freeway itself ploughed a deep scar through thewestern edge of the historical centre,and nowruns less than four metres from the façade of St Martin’s Cathedral,Bratislava’s largest,most historicallysignificant church.“If [the freeway]were any closer,itwould go through the nave,” noted the travelwriter Rick Steves. Although the Most SNP could be seen as practical planning,it is difficult to denythe devastating effect it had on the Staré Mesto’s historyand urban fabric.The bridge and freewayclashwith their centuries old historical surroundings,and an estimated 230 buildingswere demolished. The freewayisolates Bratislava Castle from the original medieval centre,and it claimed half of the once bustling Rybné Námestie and nearlyall of its buildings,which The changing face of Bratislava Bratislava‘s most visible historical landmark: then and today Photo: Courtesy of Múzeum mesta Bratislavy

42 bratislava: changes were as striking as anyin the Staré Mesto today.Adding insult to injury,the cathedral’s foundations had to be restored to protect them from thevibrations of the traffic that rumbles constantlyby. From its inception in 1599,the Jewish quarter evolved around Židovská Street.This strip of land between the castle and thewalled medieval centrewas the only place Jews in Bratislava could legallylive until 1848.All of the buildings along Židovská’s eastern sidewere demolished to make room for the freeway,while most of the buildings along itswestern sidewere replaced bymodern residential structures.One of the neighbourhood’s fewsurviving historical buildings currently houses the Museum of Jewish Culture. Aside from the museum,the onlything to indicate that a Jewish neighbourhood thrived here for centuries is a monument to Jews who perished in the holocaust, erected inwhat remains of Rybné Námestiewhere the synagogue stood,alongwith an engraving of the synagogue on an adjacent black marble slab. So,howdid the communists justifydemolishing a historically significant Jewish quarter?As in much of central Europe,Slovakia was a dreadful place for Jews during the SecondWorldWar. Roughlythree quarters of the pre-war Jewish populationwere killed,and manyof the 30,000 who survived emigrated to the US,Israel,and elsewhere.By thewar’s end,Jewish boroughs throughout Slovakiawere largely deserted.When the communists seized power in 1948,the regime’s hostilitytowards Jews dealt a further blowto the dwindling population.Manyof the deserted Jewish neighbourhoods fell into disrepair.In some towns one can still see old abandoned synagogues,either boarded up and languishing or re-purposed into storerooms,workshops or even art galleries.Bratislava’s Jewish quarterwas similarlyderelict, leaving it morevulnerable to the wrecking ball. While manylocalswere not keen on flattening the Jewish quarter,the repressive regime choked off anydissent.“People were unable to protest,” saysViera Kamenická from the Museum of Jewish Culture.“Their handswere tied.” Besides,the communists preferred creating their own monuments over saving older ones that conflictedwith their ideology, Kamenická added. The communists didn’t stop with Židovská.In 1961,a towering orthodox synagogue behind the castle on Zámocká Street was levelled and replaced by nondescript retail and office spaces.A hulking,aesthetically incongruous extension was erected over the front of the Slovak National Gallery’s Water Barracks building,masking its arcaded 19th century façade and tree-lined courtyard.Bratislava’s main train station was hidden behind a characterless 1980s add-on.The list goes on. Even in the pre-communist 1940s,the city flirted with a plan to demolish the castle,Bratislava’s most iconic historical landmark. A fire in 1811 had left it a hollowed out ruin for more than a century, but eventually planners opted for reconstruction instead. However,maintaining old structures requires active preservation and money.Several church-owned buildings at one end of historical Kapitulská Street appear on the verge of collapse, with sagging roofs and crumbling, graffiti-covered fasçades.These buildings,like most church-owned property,were seized by the state Židovská Street, the heart of the Jewish quarter Photo: Courtesy of Múzeum mesta Bratislavy

bratislava: changes 43 during communism,and neglected for 40 years.Although the buildings barely survived the regime,they may not survive the elements if the neglect continues.The church reportedly lacks the money to restore them,but seems reluctant to sell the property to developers. While saving these buildings could prove prohibitively costly, is it right to let them deteriorate? One suspects there would be no shortage of bids for this prime real estate. Obviously,urban renewal is not exclusive to Bratislava.From Baron Haussmann carving grand boulevards out of Paris’ narrow mediaeval lanes,toAmerican cities demolishing countless beaux-arts and art deco cinemas to make way for parking garages and strip malls, urban areas have always been reshaped and updated to serve the needs of growing populations. Unfortunately,this has often come at the expense of unique and irreplaceable historical structures. In Europe,however,there is growing interest in preserving historical areas,partly because they attract droves of money-spending tourists,eager to step back in time and escape the mundane settings of their own lives.An ever-growing list of protected UNESCO world heritage sites is proof of this. But while today many people agree on the importance of preserving what remains of Bratislava’s historical centre, battles are currently being waged to prevent post-war communist-era landmarks,once objects of ridicule, from being torn down.One such landmark,the 1970s-era Hotel Kyjev andTesco’s My Bratislava (formerly Prior) complex,is now considered a jewel of modern communist architecture,with its sleek,travertine marble exterior and stylish,retro-modern interior. However,when the UK-based Lordship Developers purchased the complex in 2006,they unveiled plans to demolish the hotel and adjacent buildings to make way for a vast complex of hotels, offices and retail shops.The plans were met with protests from the architectural community and general public,who pleaded with the city to preserve the hotel.But firm plans have still not been released.The hotel closed in November 2011 and the developers are apparently still locked in discussions with the city and monuments board over zoning regulations. When contacted by Spectacular Slovakia in 2016,Lordship released a statement that read: “In our optimal vision the new site built in more phases should unify all buildings at the Kamenné Námestie – the Kyjev Hotel,the shopping centre as well as new buildings.” Whether the company’s “optimal vision” will preserve the hotel’s retro-futuristic aesthetic remains to be seen,but any unification with the existingTesco store could result in a modern Eurovea-style shopping centre in this area.It is difficult to determine where Hotel Kyjevwill fit, particularly in its current form. Maik Novotny,a Vienna- based architect and co-author of Eastmodern,maintains there are “several other buildings that have been and still are at risk of demolition or insensitive reconstruction.In some cases, [they] are difficult to adapt and expensive to maintain”.And although “appreciation of these buildings seems to have improved slightly,” given Slovakia’s economic climate,the risk still persists. In light of this,one has to wonder whether anyone has learned from the mistakes that scarred the city in the past.With new office high rises and shopping centres sprouting like weeds, this remains a valid concern.It would be a shame for Hotel Kyjev to exist only as an engraving on a plaque near where it used to stand. Unless the city can welcome new development without sacrificing the old,the cycle of destruction will continue. - Jeff Whiteaker - The construction of UFO bridge (most SNP) in 1960-70s had a major impact on the historical city and Jewish circle Photo: Courtesy of Múzeum mesta Bratislavy

44 bratislava: coronation city Bratislava’s advantageous location on the banks of the Danube, and its close proximity to Vienna and Budapest has made it one of the most important cities in central Europe for hundreds of years, especially during the period of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Indeed, the single most significant period in Bratislava’s history was from 1563-1830, when it became the coronation city of the Hungarian Kingdom. At the time, Bratislava was a well-developed, multilingual city, with a population comprised of majority of Germans and solid minorities of Hungarians and Slovaks. Society was divided into several classes: the upper aristocratic class provided the secular and ecclesiastical authorities, but the middle and lower classes remained strong, comprised as they were by the craftsmen and merchants crucial to the city’s business development, as well as servants and manual labourers.There were many job opportunities in Bratislava, and in local vineyards, and it attracted workers from far and wide. Capital of the empire Bratislava’s fame rapidly grew after the Battle of Mohács in 1526, when Sultan Suleiman I defeated King Louis II of Hungary. In the aftermath of the battle, the Ottoman army occupied the Hungarian capital Buda as well as the primary coronation city of the Empire, Székesfehérvár. In 1543, the displaced rulers of a newly-founded empire turned to Bratislava to be its capital. It was besieged by Ottomans, but never conquered. In 1563, the new King Maximilian II became the first Hungarian monarch to be crowned in St Martin’s Cathedral in Bratislava, and the church would continue to serve the same function for almost 300 years. Even today, it still has a 300kg gilded copy of St Stephen’s crown (the Holy Crown of Hungary) at the top of its cathedral tower. After the era of coronations in Bratislava ended, the crown jewels were moved from the city. At the moment, the original crown is in Hungary, while Bratislava has only a copy. The gothic cathedral is now one of the most popular sights on the Bratislava tourist trail and contains numerous fascinating artefacts in its main building and catacombs. There is a permanent exhibition of relics and liturgical objects that were once used in the coronation ceremonies, as well as a list on the cathedral wall of the 19 monarchs – ten kings, one queen and eight consorts – who were crowned here. Maria Theresa The only queen on the list is, of course, Maria Theresa, who was crowned in 1741 and The centre of the Empire Crowds always packed the Bratislava streets for the coronation procession Small golden crowns mark the route of coronation march in Bratislava Photo: Courtesy of Galéria mesta Bratislavy

bratislava: coronation city 45 would become one of the most significant figures in central European history. Maria Theresa acceded to the throne after the death of her father, Charles III, and only after he had successfully campaigned for what became known as the Pragmatic Sanction of 1713, which allowed a female to inherit the possessions of the Habsburgs. Although Maria Theresa took charge of the empire when it was still recovering from the plague epidemic of 1712, and her rule was blighted by conflicts in the region, including the war of Austrian Succession (1740-48) and the Seven Years’ War (1756-63), her influence over the empire was largely positive. Bratislava, in particular, underwent a period of significant economic and social improvement. “Maria Theresa is interesting for being an enlightened ruler; she made several appealing changes,” said the historian Pavel Dvořák. “For example, she introduced compulsory school attendance and forbade torture.” Journeyto history These days, the royal history of Bratislava is best remembered by the annual coronation march through the city, which remains as close as possible to the route taken by the Hungarian monarchs on their coronation day. The new monarch would have led a parade on foot through the streets, via the Main Square and past Maximilian’s fountain, which was placed there in 1572. The tour continued into the Franciscan Church, where the king or queen would confer on selected noblemen the prestigious Order of the Golden Spur. The procession would then proceed along Michalská Street towards Michael’s Gate, where the monarch would climb aboard a waiting charger and gallop to the coronation mound on the banks of the Danube. He would wave his sword to the north, east, south and west, promising to defend his kingdom from all directions. In those days, the route would have been covered by red canvas, which was torn down by citizens after the celebration. Today’s residents of Bratislava get to enjoy the festivities every year, in June, when actors play the parts of the courtiers and monarchs, dressed in period costume. “I think it is good that Bratislava remembers its history,” said Dvořák. “A lot of buildings from that era have been demolished, such as the towns’ gates, and old buildings have been replaced by new ones. There were even plans to bring down Bratislava Castle during the first republic [1918-1939]. This is why it is very important to recall the glorious times of Bratislava.” - Carmen Virágová - Monarchs crowned in Bratislava 1563 – King Maximilian II and his wife, Mary of Spain 1572 – Rudolf II 1608 – Matthias II 1613 - Anne of Tirol, wife of Matthias II 1618 – Ferdinand II 1622 - Eleonora Gonzaga of Spain, second wife of Ferdinand II 1638 – Maria Anna of Spain, first wife of Ferdinand III 1647 – Ferdinand IV Habsburg 1655 – Maria Eleonora Gonzaga, third wife of Ferdinand III 1655 – Leopold I 1687 – Joseph I 1712 – Charles III 1714 – Elisabeth Christine of Brunswick-Wolfenbüttel, wife of Charles III 1741 – Maria Theresa 1790 – Leopold II 1808 – Maria Ludovika of Austria-Este, third wife of Francis II 1825 – Caroline Augusta of Bavaria, fourth wife of Francis II 1830 – Ferdinand V Obchodná 17 min Primaciálne nám. Zámocká Zelená Hurbanovo nám. Klariská Michalská Prepoštolská Františ.nám. Farská Riečna Gorkého Zámočnícka Jesenského Paulínyho Vajanského nábrežie Kúpeľná Uršulínska Štúrova Škarniclova Klobučnícka Zochova Palisády Sedlárska Veterná Bradlianska Svoradova Kamenné nám. Panská Strakova Nám. SNP Rybné nám. Panská Ventúrska Kozia Hviezdoslavovonámestie Rudnayovo nám. Fajnorovo nábr. Rigeleho Heydukova Františkánska Navŕšku Kapitulská Biela Most SNP Kolárska Poštová Staromestská Jedlíkova Rybárskabr. Dvořákovo nábrežie Rázusovo nábrežie Palackého Laurinská Mostová Tobrucká Drevená Hlavné nám. Radničná Baštová Nedbalova Župné nám. Medená Staromestská Staromestská Medená Nedbalova Zámocká Podjavorinskej Vodnývrch Žižkova Pilárikova Židovská Židovská Mikulášska Beblavého Konventná Suché mýto  19min Coronation mound The route taken by monarchs on their coronation day

46 bratislava: personalities Power to the people: investigating Bratislava’s personalities For most foreign tourists,a trip to Bratislava means a stroll through the historical centre,a visit to some museums,and a walk up to Castle Hill. But it is also rewarding while in the city to delve into its human history,and to remember some of the personalities that have either lived or visited throughout the years. The city has hosted monarchs, musicians,sportsmen and scientists, who have been crowned,performed and made remarkable discoveries here.Franz Liszt played one of his first concerts in Bratislava.MariaTheresa was crowned Queen of Hungary here.And Jaroslav Halák stopped his first goal-bound shot in Bratislava before starring in the NHL. What else is a city if not a mosaic of human acts and stories? City’s diversity “I love this city,” wrote the Danish author Hans ChristianAndersen in his diarywhile visiting Bratislava in the mid 19th century.Andersen would have encountered a very different Bratislava to the way it is today,when numerous religions and cultures lived side-by-side. “It was a much more tolerant city than nowadays,” says the historian Vladimír Tomčík.“The Christian St Martin’s Cathedral,an orthodox church,the neological synagogue,an orthodox yeshiva and even a Muslim house of prayer stood next to each other in one street.” Tomčík added that the city’s diversitywas probably also one of the reasons that Bratislava came to be visited by so many famous people from different fields and different countries, and why people from here have achieved success abroad. “And they came here also because of good wine and food as well,” addedTomčík with a smile. Rich history of classical music When walking through the OldTown, visitors will no doubt notice a series of memorial plaques on the walls of the various palaces,often displaying Bratislava’s links to a rich history of classical music.Some of history’s most significant composers are known to have played their sonatas at the homes of Bratislava’s noble families.A 6-year-old WolfgangAmadeus Mozart is believed to have given a concert on Ventúrska Street in 1762.In 1820,a 9-year-old Franz Liszt performed in what is now the University Library.Both visited Bratislava at the beginning of their illustrious careers and dazzled the local audience.Liszt became a regular visitor to Bratislava. During the 18th century,theAustrian classicist composer Joseph Haydn worked as a Kapellmeister (in charge of music) for Prince Nikolaus I Esterházy in one of Esterházy’s palaces on Kapitulská Street.(The ruins of the palace still stand.) In 1772,Haydn conducted the wedding ball of Queen MariaTheresa’s daughter in Grassalkovich Palace,today’s seat of the Slovak President. Esterházy also hosted Haydn and Mozart’s student, Ludwig van Beethoven, who visited Bratislava several times and had many friends here.It is also rumoured that Johann Strauss composed the first melodies of his famous waltz The Blue Danube in Bratislava in 1852,although the story cannot be confirmed. Bratislava also boasts its own home-grown talent to match this group of successful visiting musicians: Johann Nepomuk Hummel,who was born in 1778 in Nedbalova Street in Bratislava, where you can find his museum today. Hummel was a pupil of Mozart and at the time was equallywell-known as his teacher and Beethoven. Forty-eight years after Hummel’s BRATISLAVA’S SONS AND DAUGHTERS Famous people who were born in Bratislava 1704 – 1777 Johann Segner, scientist 1725 – 1793 Karl Gottlieb von Windisch, Hungarian-German writer 1778 – 1837 Johann Nepomuk Hummel, composer and virtuoso pianist 1734 – 1804 Wolfgang von Kempe- len, inventor and technician 1804 – 1849 Stephan L. Endlicher, botanist and director of Botanical Garden of Vienna 1807 – 1849 Lajos Batthyány, first Prime Minister of Hungary 1819 – 1886 Jakub Palugyay, baron, winemaker 1844 – 1896 Viktor Oskar Tilgner, neo-baroque sculptor and portraitist 1862 – 1947 Philipp Lenard, physicist and winner of the Nobel Prize for Physics 1897 – 1967 Schőner Náci, renowned character of Bratislava’s street 1951 – 1989 Ondrej Nepela, Olympic gold and three-time World champion figure skater 1956 - Peter Šťastný, ice hockey player and politician 1985 - Jaroslav Halák, ice hockey goaltender, currently playing for St. Louis Blues of the NHL Franz Xaver Messerschmidt - Character head 3 (Photo: Courtesy of SNG) During the mid-20th century, one of the best loved characters in Brati- slava’s Old Town was Ignác Lamár, better known as Schőner Náci Maria Theresa, who was crowned the Hungarian queen in St Martin’s Cathedral in 1741, is depicted here with Bratislava Castle in the background Photo: Courtesy of Galéria mesta Bratislavy

bratislava: personalities  47 The piano of Johann Nepomuk Hummel is exhibited in his former home Famous people who lived part of their lives in Bratislava Maria Theresa (1717 – 1780), the most famous empress coronated in Bratislava Chatam Sófer (Moses Schreiber) (1762 – 1839), world-renowned orthodox-Jewish rabbi Georg Rafael Donner (1693 – 1741), Austrian sculptor, pioneer of baroque classicism Béla Bartók (1881 – 1945), composer and pianist Franz Xaver Messerschmidt (1736 – 1783) German-Austrian sculptor, most famous for his „character heads“ death,the Russian pianist and composer Anton Rubinstein played a memorable concert in Bratislava to collect money for Hummel’s memorial. researchand invention Inadditiontothemusicians,numerous highly-reputedscientistshavewalkedthe streetsofBratislava,includingThomas EdisonandAlbertEinstein,whocarriedout researchinthecity.Nearly200yearsear- lier,however,theinventorWolfgangvon Kempelenwasbornherein1734andwor- kedmuchofhisprolificcareerinthecity. VonKempelendesignedpumpstocarry watertoBratislava’scastleandconstructed fountainsinSchőnbrunninVienna.He builtapontoonbridge overtheDanubeand inventedatype-writerfor blindpeople. His two most popu- lar inventions even made it to several royal courts in Europe.He invented a machine called “the Turk”which could reputedlyplaychess and defeated number of great chess players across the world,including Napo- leon Bonaparte,among others.The originalwas destroyed bya fire in a museum in Philadelphia and its mechanism remains unknown, leading to speculation over the past fewyears that itwas most likelyonlya trick cabinet that contained a chess-playing human-being.However, Kempelen’s Speaking Machinewas no such fraud: itwas the first fullyfunctional speech synthesis machine,which used be- llows,a set of lungs and bagpipe to imitate human’s speech. Face ofthe city But not onlyfamous people shaped the face of the city.During the mid-20th century,one of the best loved characters in Bratislava’s OldTownwas Ignác Lamár, better known as Schőner Náci. Lamár grew up in a poor family andworked as confectioner’s apprentice and shoemaker, amongnumerous manual jobs.But he dreamed of becoming a clown in the circus,and began to wear a white tie and a pair of patent leather shoes that had been given to his father bya rich lady.In this elegant garb,with top hat and cane,hewalked the streets of the Old Town from Michael’s Gate to the Danube embankment, greetingwomen with thewords “I kissyour hand” in three languages: Slovak,German and Hungarian.Schőner Náci also used to sing his own songs to ladies in the cafés,where theyoften offered him coffee for free. Although this unforgettable Bratislava character died in 1967,you can still meet him today on the streets of the OldTown.His silver statue still greets tourists a few metres from the Main Square,next to his beloved Café Mayer. - Lukáš Onderčanin - A card from Ludwig van Beethoven’s concert in Bratislava Photo: Courtesy of Galéria mesta Bratislavy Photo: Courtesy of Galéria mesta Bratislavy Franz Liszt (left) and Géza Zichy

48 bratislava: legends The home of myths and legends Michael’s Gate, the last remaining gate in the mediaeval fortificati- on, and location for the legend of Peter and the plague. Today it is a home to a museum of arms. The lives of people around the world are forever intertwined with the legends,myths and ghost stories that permeate their land. Every city has its mysterious places,its age-old yarns and its historical characters, whose stories have been twisted and embellished into tales to tell the grandchildren or to liven up a trip around the city streets. The capital of Slovakia is no exception. Indeed, seemingly every building, square or street in Bratislava has its own long and unlikely tale. Few stand up to much historical scrutiny; fewer still are proven. And there are variations on every theme. But each adds to the unique flavour of this vibrant city, and so here is a quick primer to Bratislava’s myths and legends. The Giant’sTable We start with the symbol of Bratislava: its castle,whose appearance resembles a table turned upside-down,its four towers like legs in each of its corners. That,if you believe the myth,is exactly what once happened to the castle,in the dim and distant past. One night, the residents of the castle awoke from tormented sleep.All the castle’s paintings were on the floor and the lamps were destroyed. Nobody knew what had happened during the night and the queen was furious. She called for an old witch to tell her what had happened, and the witch pointed the finger at Klingsor, a giant wizard,who lived in Transylvania. Klingsor sometimes travelled to Germany and passed close by the castle. One night, he had picked it up and turned it upside down to use as a table so he could rest. The queen instructed the witch to tell Klingsor never to use the castle as a table again.As yet,he has not returned. But who knows what may happen in the future... MICHAEL’S GATE One of the most visited places in the Old Town is Michael’s Gate below Michael’s Tower, the last remaining gate into the city from the mediaeval fortifications. At least three popular myths and legends are centred here,but the most interesting story is about the guardian of the gate. It was 4:00 and the people in the citywere sleeping.Only the guardian of the gate,whose name was Peter,was awake.Suddenly two men came to the gate,one of them carrying a scythe,and told Peter to open up.He refused and said it was too early.But they told him they had very important work to do for the lord. The two men gave one golden ducat to Peter and finally he was persuaded to open the gate.But as soon as they entered the city,the men began a murder spree,killing Peter first.They were the carriers of the plague that then swept through Bratislava.

bratislava: legends 49 Roland’s Song The fountain in Bratislava’s main square is officially named after Maximilian II, the Hungarian king of the 16th century. But it is commonly known as the Roland Fountain after a knight who features in another popular Bratislava legend. Roland was a brave knight,who had a wonderful sword named Durandal. But he grew to be best known in the city not for his heroic exploits on the field of battle,but for a love-song he sang while sitting in the square,dedicated to his love Olifanta. The children of the city loved Roland’s song,but the knight was summoned back to France,taking his wonderful singing with him.The children found they could not sleep without the song,so the mayor of the city built a fountain with Roland’s statue at its centre,and whose trickling water would sound like the song and lull the children to sleep. Legend has it that the fountain is magic,and that on December 31 everyyear,the statue of Roland turns his head to the town hall and bows to the lords who fought for the city.The knight also comes to life on Good Friday, when he waves his sword to all four sides of the world. However,the only person that can witness the miracle is the one born in Bratislava but who has never hurt anyone. Napoleon’straces in Bratislava Legend has it that a young French soldier named Johann Evangelist Hubert from Champagne when recovering from wounds he had suffered during the failed Napoleon’s expedition to Russia in Pressburg that is called Bratislava today fell in love with and married the pretty nurse Paulína.As he knew secrets how to produce the famous champagne wine and saw excellent local wines,he established here a sparkling wine factory in 1825. The legend closes that at that time it was the first factory in Europe outside of France that manufactured champagne using the original French recipe.The reality is that the first factory in Europe outside of France where sparkling wine was produced following the original French recipe was really founded in Bratislava,but not by Johann Evangelist Hubert,but by local burghers Johann Fischer and Michael Schönbauer.The Hubert family entered the business only later,giving it its name. But the sparking wine production,even thought it has moved outside Bratislava to Sereď,it is not the only trace, legendary or real,Napoleon left in Bratislava.Each year in May or June fans of military history re-enact fights from a famous battle of 1809 during which Napoleon failed to conquer Bratislava at the same place at which it took place,the Sad Janka Kráľa city park on the Petržalka bank of the Danube River under the title Ubránili Sme Sa! Or We Managed to Defend Ourselves! A cannon ball in the wall of the OldTown Hall’s tower as well as the nearby sculpture of a Napoleonic soldier leaning on a bench,a popular photo-op for tourists,recall the Napoleonic siege,too. - Karolína Kučerová - Each year in May or June fans of military history re-enact fights from a famous battle of 1809 during which Napoleon failed to conquer Bratislava The Roland fountain, officially named after Maximilian II, is cen- tral to a story about the sleepless children of Bratislava

50 bratislava: MUSEUMS, GALLERIES AND THEATRES Bratislava is not only the administrative capital of Slovakia,it is also the centre of the country’s cultural life.If you are an incurable museumgoer or gallery lover,Bratislava,with plentiful such institutions and a busy event schedule, will suit you verywell. Galleries in Bratislava are mostly situated in ex-palaces of noblemen,so the historical experience mixes with art,both old and modern.Since there are so many of these palaces here,there are many art galleries too,the best of which are the Slovak National Gallery, the Nedbalka Gallery,Danubiana and Bratislava City Gallery. National gallery The biggest and most important gallery is,unsurprisingly,the Slovak National Gallery in downtown Bratislava. Though currently under reconstruc- tion,many of its exhibitions are still accessible,albeit in closer quarters of Esterházy palace,coffee-house Berlinka and bookshop Ex Libris.In Esterházy palace,works come from the mediaeval, Gothic and Baroque periods,as well as more contemporary art.The first floor is dedicated to temporary exhibitions usuallywith some interactive parts for visitors.There are many regular events, some of them dedicated to foreigners in- cluding commented expositions Sunday Rest and Open Studio projects of Ilona Nemeth from FineArtsAcademy. City gallery In the centre of the OldTown,the Bratislava City Gallery occupies Pálffy Palace as well as Mirbach Palace.It hosts a rich collection of older works plus an array of contemporary pieces. A permanent exhibition entitled “Stories and Phenomena: 20th Century Slovak FineArt II” offers a glimpse of modern art.It comprises two installations: “Passage” by Matej Krén and “Villa of Mysteries” byAlex Mlynárčik,both intriguing. “Passage” is essentially a pathway through an installation of mirrors and books,which create an illusion of an infinite space around the visitor,who is invited to walk along it.“Villa of Mysteries” is made also of mirrors and paintings that together create a maze, bathed in red.It is unlike anything else in the gallery. Galleries: 3Slovak National Gallery  page: 12 18Nedbalka Gallery  page: 15 26Mirbach Palace (Bratislava City Gallery)  page: 20 35Pálffy Palace (Bratislava City Gallery)  page: 22 99Danubiana Meulensteen Art Museum  page: 39 CKunsthalle Bratislava  Námestie SNP 12  www.kunsthallebratislava.sk Wed 12:00-20:00, Thu-Sun 12:00-19:00 free Museums 2Natural History Museum (Slovak National Museum)  page: 12 14Bratislava City Museum; Museum of Viticulture; Museum of Historical Interiors all museums are located in the Old Town Hall complex  page: 16 27Museum of Weapons (Michael’s Gate)  page: 20 28Museum of Pharmacy (Red Crayfish Pharmacy)  page: 20 Culture everywhere you look The Nedbalka Gallery, which opened in 2012 and houses 20th century Slovak art, is referred to as Bratislava’s Guggenheim 3 2 4 8 14 C1 C C2 26 28 27 43 45 42 47 35 18

bratislava: MUSEUMS, GALLERIES AND THEATRES 51 Museums 42Historical Museum (Bratislava Castle)  page: 26 43MuseumofJewishCulture  Židovská 17; map B 4 0.8km(10min) Å+421(0)22049-0101 G www.snm.sk Mon-Fri11:00-16:30,Sun 11:00-16:30€7eéWC 45Museum of Clocks (House of the Good Shepherd)  page: 28 47Archaeological Museum; Music Museum; Museum of Carpathian German Culture; Museum of Hungarian Culture in Slovakia all museums are located in Zuckermandel  page: 28 C1Johann Nepomuk Hummel Museum  Klobučnícka 2; map C 3 (c 4)  0.16 km (2 min) Å +421 (0)2 5443-3888 G www.muzeum.bratislava.sk  Tue-Fri 10:00-17:00, Sat-Sun 11:00-18:00 €3.3 In addition to these installations, there are also permanent exhibitions showcasing Central European Painting and Sculpture 1800–1918,the Celtic mint in Bratislava,Tapestries from England, and a Picture Gallery.Combined they create an incredibly diverse collection - and they are not restricted only to the city centre. Nedbalka “It reminds me of the Guggenheim gallery in NewYork,where I was sitting in front of Manet’s Before the Mirror for more than 30 minutes,” said Jana Meňušová,an enthusiastic traveller, sitting in the café of the Gallery Nedbalka,surrounded by books about Slovak painters.“It is much smaller but also much cheaper.” The gallery opened in 2012, tucked away in an anonymous building on Nedbalova Street in the Old Town. Its riches only become apparent after paying a €4 entrance fee and proceeding to the first floor,when you are suddenly in a circular open-plan gallery surrounded by paintings and sculptures of Slovak artists mostly from the 20th century.The top floor is given over to the work of Ladislav Medňanský, from which you can peer over another three levels of galleries including the work of Ján Fulla, Ladislav Guderna or the Galanda group, among others.The entrance hall is used for temporary exhibitions.The gallery is fully accessible to disabled visitors via a lift to each floor. Danubiana On the northern corner of a windy, artificial island in the middle of the Danube,15 km from downtown Bratislava,is the Danubiana MeulensteenArt Museum.This nest of modern art is accessible via car or the No. 91 bus from the SNP Bridge to Čunovo - followed by a 4-km walk along the dam. On Sundays during the summer season it is also possible to take a boat trip from Bratislava city centre directly to the island,with fares including the gallery entrance fee. The reward is a magnificent view of the Danube accompanied by the statues in Danubiana Park,plus a large,airy exhibition hall,featuring a constantly changing roster of contemporary art. Museums Numerous museums dotted across Slovakia are governed by the central Slovak National Museum organisation, and eight of them are in Bratislava. These include the Natural History Museum,permanently exhibiting a huge number of objects of living and non- living nature,alongside other different temporary exhibitions.It is located on the embankment,close to the port and tiny park. The Town Hall Museum focuses on the history of the city harum Danubiana is Slovakia’s island of modern art

52 bratislava: MUSEUMS, GALLERIES AND THEATRES Museums C2Arthur Fleischmann Museum Biela6;mapC3(c4)  0.13 km (2 min) Å +421 (0)2 5413-1211 (museum) G www.muzeum.bratislava.sk  Tue-Fri 10:00-16:30, Sat-Sun 11:00-17:30 €3.3 å eWC C2Museum of Trade Biela6;mapC3(c4)  0.13 km (2 min) G www.muzeumobchoduba.sk  Tue-Fri 9:00-17:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-17:00 €3 e 76Museum of Transport  Šancova 1; map C 1  1.5 km (20 min) 3.6 km (9 min) u SAV v 21, 25, 32, 34, 63, 64, 83, 84, 93, 141, 184, 204, 206, 209, 212 Å +421 (0)2 5244-4163 G www.muzeumdopravy.com  Tue-Sun 10:00-16:30 €3.3e é WC 81Devín Castle  page: 37 96Gerulata  page: 39 Museum of Croatian Culture in Slovakia  Istrijská 68; map F 4  16 km (17 min) u Novoveská v 20, 21, 28 Å +421 (0)2 2049-3101 G www.snm.sk  Tue-Fri 11:00-16:30 Sat-Sun 12:00-16:30 €2 WC Classical Music 4Slovak Philharmonic Orchestra (Reduta)  page: 12 8Historical building SND  page: 13 57New building SND  page: 30 92Aréna Theatre  page: 38 Žižkova Street, right under castle hill, is a home to four museums: the Archaeological Museum, the Music Museum and two others focused on the lives of Hungarian and Carpathian German minorities.There are also museums of Jewish and Croatian cultures in other parts of the city, also reflecting the life of ethnic minorities in Slovakia. Bratislava Castle is also part of the Slovak National Museum family, and houses temporary and permanent exhibitions that tell the story both of the fortress itself and the history of the territory known today as Slovakia. A tour inside concludes with a trip up the Crown Tower, which affords magnificent views over the city. The Museum ofTransport,next to the main railway station,hosts a variety of vehicles and accessories,such as old steam locomotives,snowploughs and other railway machines.Old warehouses are also stocked with cars,both old and modern,classics and prototypes, as well as motorbikes and bicycles.In short,everything that a transport or engineering nut might desire. TheTown Hall museums in the Old Town Hall focus on the history of the city as well as offering exhibits of wine and furniture in the nearbyApponyi Palace, where in cellars several winetasting programme are available.Weapons are presented in Michael’s Gate which is close to the Museum of Pharmacy located in the yellow building behind the gate.Closer to the castle is the picturesque House of the Good Shepherd which houses the Museum of Clocks. Two other museums in the historical centre are devoted to musician Johann Nepomuk Hummel and sculptorArthur Fleischmann,both of whom were born in Bratislava.The city is also in charge of managing Devín Castle and the ruined foundations of a Roman military camp called Gerulata in Rusovce. Musicandtheatre Cultural life is also rich in Bratislava as far as concerts, festivals and exhibitions are concerned. During the summer months, a programme called Cultural Summer includes variety of concerts and happenings all over the Old Town. The highlight of every season is the re- enactment of coronations of Hungarian kings and queens.The Bratislava Jazz Days festival also draws the best jazzmen to Slovakia from all over the world. Year round, the Slovak National Theatre is the jewel in Bratislava’s theatrical crown. It is housed in two buildings: the ornate, historical one on Hviezdoslavovo námestie (square) and a modern,well-appointed new construction next to Eurovea. Opera and ballets admirers from abroad come to Bratislava to see unforgettable performances, such as Don Giovanni, Nabucco or Swan Lake.The home of the Slovak Philharmonic orchestra also re-opened in 2012 after extensive reconstruction. It offers a varied programme during a season that lasts from September to June. - Sanela Kurtek, Ivan Belko, Ján Pallo - Bratislava Castle offers both a magnificent view and exhibitions that tell the story of the territory known today as Slovakia Photo: Courtesy of SND

bratislava: BEST DEALS 53 FOOD a Alotofrestaurantshavea fixeddailymenu(typicallysoup andamaindish)foraround€4 aTheall-you-can-eatplaceswhich areclosetothehistoricalcentreinBra- tislava:Chineserestaurant,Laurinská 3;all-you-can-eatMon-Fri11:00-15:00 (€6.5);GaneshUtsav,Vysoká2/A (Mon-Fri11:00-16:00(€5.5), Sat-Sun11:00-16:00(€6)); Sajado,Pribinova8(Eurovea, pricefrom€10.8); Asianrestaurant, Einsteinova18(AuparkShopping Park,pricefrom€6.89) aThe food courts in Eurovea, Aupark and Central shopping centres, which are close to the historical centre, offer many different meals and fast foods aGood,cheapChinesefoodcanbe foundinrestaurantsonObchodná, ŠpitálskaandLaurinskáStreets aLacinka–Palacinka,atŠancová18 (closetothetrainstation),isasociali- sticstyleplacethatoffersthebestand cheapestpancakesinthecity.Aplain pancakecosts€0.5(openMon-Fri 11:00-21:00,Sun14:00-21:00) aGrocerystorestendtoopen from9:00to21:00,buttheTesco hypermarketsinPetržalkaandZlaté Pieskyareopen24-hours,aswell asasmallersupermarketHviezda atNámestie1.Mája(mapC2). Anotheroptionistoorderyourfood onlineatpotravinydomov.itesco.sk GENERAL aTheBratislavatouristofficeoffers adiscountcard,calledBratislavaCity Card,whichallowsvisitorsfreetravel bypublictransportanddiscountsfrom 5percentupwardsatparticipating museums,galleries,andrestaurants. Thecardisvalidforuptothreedays andcosts€16.Thecardalsoincludes aguidedtouraroundthecity,which startseverydayat14:00.Bookingis necessary(+421(0)25935-6651, www.visitbratislava.com). aFreetourstotheOldTownand beyondleavetwicedaily(11:00and 15:00)frombesidethestatueof HviezdoslavinHviezdoslavovoSquare (www.befreetours.com). aThefirstSundayofthemonth- statemuseumsandgalleriesarefree toenter.TheseincludetheSlovak NationalGallery,theMuseumof Transport,aswellastensitesofthe SlovakNationalMuseumacrossthe region,whichincludeBratislavaand ČervenýKameňcastlesor theNatural HistoryMuseum.Thankstosponsors oftheSlovakNationalGalleryentrance isfreeyear-round. aThereareafewfreeWiFizones acrossthecity:Primaciálnenámestie, MedickáGarden,Rázusovoand Fajnorovowaterfront.Youcanalsoget onlineinbusesdisplayingaWiFisign. Seealso:www.wificafespots.com. aFormorediscounttipsvisitwww. zlavadna.sk,www.morezliav.sk, www.zlavomat.skorothershopping websites.Althoughthesesitesarein Slovak,youwillbewelladvisedtofind anativespeakertohelpasafteryou makeanonlinepayment,youwill receiveavoucherofferingdiscountsat avarietyofrestaurantsorfitnessand wellnesscentres. aBratislavaprevšetkých(Bratislava forEveryone)launches,inthesecond halfofApril,the touristseason,special entertainmentprogrammesandfree entrytoselectedvenues. TRANSPORT ANDACCOMMODATION aCheaperticketsareavailableonBrati- slava’spublictransportsystemifyoubuy foralongerperiodinadvance.Bratislava citycardholderscanridethecity’spublic transportforfree. aForvisitorswhowanttoseethecityfrom tram,theycantakenumber5fromthetram stopPoštová(atObchodnáStreet)tothe stopnamedParkkultúry(PKO),outsidethe modernRiverParkcomplexandthentake tramnumber4or6backtothecitycentre. (www.dpb.sk). aHostelsclosetothecitycentreinclude: DowntownBackpacker’sHostel (www.backpackers.sk),HostelBlues (www.hostelblues.sk),HostelPatio (www.patiohostel.com),HostelPossonium (www.possonium.sk),HostelSvoradov (www.hostelbratislavasvoradov.sk),Hostel Mansard(www.hostelmansard.com),City Hostel(www.cityhostel.sk),HydePark Hostel(www.hyde-park.sk),A1Hostel (www.a1hostelbratislava.hostel.com). aThereareseveralwaystovisitVienna fromBratislava,including:byboat(€29fora returnticket),bytrain(€14return),orbybus (€8return).Returnticketsarecheaperthan twosingles. a Ryanair is the cheapest carrier flying to Bratislava’s international airport, but also check out other low-cost airlines’ flights to Vienna. It is less than an hour away from Bratislava,with good transport links. a Rail transport within Slovakia is free of charge for all students and pensioners from the EU.It is required to obtain a card from the cash desk at the station and then obtain a free ticket for each ride. SUMMER SEASON aInthesummeryoucanswimforfreein variouslakes:Kuchajda,VeľkýDraždiak, andRusovce. aEverySaturdayandSundayat13:30boat visitsČunovo,homeoftheDanubianaMeu- lensteenArtMuseum.Theboatreturnfare (€12)alsoincludesentrancetothegallery. Best deals and discounts in Bratislava

54 bratislava: FOR 100 EUROS 14Old Town Hall  page: 16 17Tourist Information Centre  Klobučnícka 2; map C 3 (c 4)  0.16 km (2 min) Å +421 (0)2 5441-9410 www.visitbratislava.com 42Bratislava Castle  page: 26 56Eurovea shopping centre  page: 30 58Blue Church  page: 31 65Presidential Palace  page: 33 71Medická záhrada (garden)  Ul. 29. augusta/Špitálska; map D, E 2  1.2 km (14 min)  2.1 km (5 min) u Mariánska v 4, 9  Apr-Sep 7:00-21:00, Oct-Mar 10:00-18:00 free 77Slavín  page: 34 Bungee jump from the Lafranconi Bridge  Lafranconi Bridge 5.7 km (7 min) u Lafranconi v 4, 5, 6, 9, 28, 29, 30, 31, 37, 39, 131, 133 Å +421 (0)2 6252-8077 www.actionzazitky.sk €11 Many foreigners come to Slovakia for a weekend to have fun, enjoy the summer days and to try a taste of a new country. And they also hope to do so without breaking the bank. Bratislava is ideal for bargain travel, and with a few tips from the locals or fellow travellers, you can find accommodation, food and entertainment for little more than €100 for the weekend. “Bratislava is a cheap city,” said a Polish tourist named Mateusz,visiting Bratislavawith his girlfriend Gabriela. “You can drink a beer in a restaurant here for €1.5,which is cheaper than in Krakow.” Youwill,of course,need a place to stayand there are several hostels not far from the citycentre.Onlythree or four minutes byfoot from the train station is Hostel Possonium on Šancová Street (beds from €8.5),which offers quick and easyaccess to all the main sights and a free dailywalking tour to the citycentre, 15 minutes away. Even closer to the OldTown are Hostel Blues and Hostel Patio on Špitálska Street,where a bed in a dorm roomwill cost from €12.9 (Blues) or €12 (Patio).The Downtown Backpacker’s Hostel on Panenská Street has beds from €10.Hostel Mansard (beds from €15),CityHostel (beds from €13.75) and Hyde Park Hostel (beds from €14) are located on Obchodná Street. Getting around Bratislava is relatively simple.It is a small and manageable size and a lot of attractions are inwalking distance from one another.However,if you prefer to use public transport,then the €12 Bratislava citycard (www.visit- bratislava.com) is a good choice.It offers unlimited use of the buses and trams,as well as discounts for several cityattrac- tions.The best time to come to Bratislava is probablyaweekendwhich includes the first Sundayof everymonth,when all state museums and state galleries in the cityoffer free admission.But even at other times,a lot ofwhatyou’ll find here is inexpensive. day ONE - Saturday A new day can bring new excitement, and daredevils might like to try a bungee jump off the Lafranconi Bridge, for only €11 (www.actionzazitky.sk), if booked through discount companies. The adrenaline boost will give you the energy to last the next few days. Perhaps to slow down and relax a bit you can take tram number 4 or 9 to the Mariánska stop and visit the Medická záhrada (garden) and historical Ondrejský cintorín (cemetery) both on 29. augusta Street (pull-out map E 3,4). This site offers a pleasant walk through the gardens and the cemetery as well as a free WiFi zone and an opportunity to share new experiences online. The Blue Church at Bezručova Street, only a 10-minute walk from the cemetery in the direction of the river and the Eurovea shopping centre, of- fers an interesting photo opportunity and takes travellers to a neighbour- hood with plenty of options for lunch, including Pizza Mizza and the Secondi Pasta Bar which serves excellent pan- cakes stuffed with whipped cream for only about €3. Bratislava on a budget: Aweekend for €100 The “Magio Beach”, which provides a free summer cinema

bratislava: FOR 100 EUROS 55 Magio Beach  Tyršovo nábrežie; map C 4  2 km (24 min) u Aupark v 80, 83, 84, 88, 91, 93, 94, 191a May-Sep å WC Divný Janko Restaurant  Jozefská 2; map C 2 Restaurant Bratislavský Meštiansky Pivovar  Dunajská 21; map D 3 www.mestianskypivovar.sk Restaurant Kláštorný Pivovar  Nám. SNP 8; map C 3 (c 2) Alternatively, you can bring a picnic to enjoy on a huge green area by the river, where you will also find some free exercise machines to work off the calories. It is an attractive spot, and totally free, just to laze around. Bratislava city card holders have the opportunity to join a free daily walking tour around the city centre, starting at 14:00 in front of the main Tourist Information Centre at Klobučnícka Street, and lasting an hour. You can also pick up countless leaflets and guides to attractions in the office. (You will need to make a reserva- tion for the tour, either by e-mail to citycard@visitbratislava.com or in person, at least two hours in advance.) Alternatively, www.befreetours.com also offers a free city walking tour. Several museums are scattered through the OldTown,and €6 will get you a bulk ticket to three of the best: the OldTown tower,the OldTown Hall and theApponyi Palace at Main Square.The last entrance is at 14:30 on weekdays and an hour later at weekends. After a day of explorations,head to Kláštorný pivovar,a micro-brew pub,at 8 Nám.SNP (square),about five minutes walk fromTesco.You can get a good local meal for €8 and a signature beer for about €1.9,then head down to the Old Bridge or SNP Bridge to watch the sun set over the Danube and take a riverside stroll. There are other options for food in this area.If you wander to the other side of the Old Bridge you’ll find “Magio Beach”,where there are stands selling food and drinks.The prices are slightly higher than average,but there’s nothing stopping you from bringing your own refreshment and watching a film at the “summer cinema”,which is free. “You’ll need to come before the film begins,so you can find seats,but if the weather is good,it’s a perfect place to watch a film with friends,” said Peter, from Stropkov. dayTWO - Sunday There are plenty of places to visit that do not demand any entrance fee.For instance,a walk up to the Slavín war memorial and military cemetery costs nothing,yet it affords a splendid view over the city and is an excellent place to start a tour to get your bearings. On the way back to the city centre, you can pop into the grounds of Brati- slava Castle.You will need to pay to go inside and visit the historical exhibitions (except on that first Sunday of the month) but you can explore the sur- roundings for nothing,and again survey the city and the Danube from on high. Awalk (or trolleybus ride) down from the castle can pass through Hodžovo námestie (square),where you can see the Presidential Palace,guarded by the distinctive sentries.At 13:00,you can watch the changing of the guard.Close by,is the Divný Janko restaurant at Jozefská Street,which offers good cheap food (even if the service can be erratic). Remember that a lot of restaurants offer a two-course lunchtime menu for about €4. Before you start to pack your luggage for home,why not take an afternoon boat trip to Čunovo,which includes a visit to the Danubiana gallery of modern art.The boat leaves at 13:30 every Sat- urday and Sunday during the summer season from a jetty outside Eurovea.A return ticket costs €12 (€10 for conces- sions) and includes entrance to the gallery. City card holders can enjoy a further 15 percent discount. If modern art is not your thing,you can take a boat in the other direction to explore the ruins of Devín Castle. Catch the 29 bus back to the city centre.All in all, that’s two days’ accommodation, sustenance and entertainment with change from €100. Save up again, and there’s plenty more to see next time. - Martina Raábová - Ondrejský cintorín is a historical cemetery, national cultural monument and final resting place of several significant Slovak personalities Boat trips can be a nice addition to a weekend in Bratislava Photo: Courtesy of Bratislava Region Tourism

56 bratislava: NIGHT LIFE Everycityhas a club,but not everycity has a Subclub.Deep in a former bunker beneath Bratislava Castle is one of the city’s most unusual night spots,which has been the alma mater of Slovak nightclubs for two generations.It is a place known across Europe for its deep,loud and steadyrumble,where the founding fathers of avibrant underground culture dust off theirvinyl to play. Diversityof genres Subclub is onlyone out of hundreds of places to spend a buzzing night in Brati- slava,a citythat has often been dubbed Party-Slava for itsvast arrayof bars and clubs.You can spend nights quietlysi- pping drymartini,or rockingwildlyinto tomorrow.Bratislava maybe charming and tranquil during the day,but Party- -Slava is a different place entirely. Subclub,formerlyknown also as U Club,started out as avenue for alternative rock concerts,where the audience sat on emptybeer crates.However,more and more DJswere invited to playsets here and the cornerstone of the Slovak techno, house,drum ‘n’ bass and jungle music scenewas laid in place. “Subclub was the first post-communist club in Slovakia with a completely differ- ent music style than anywhere else,” said Branislav Kŕč,who was one of the club’s owners for six years and is its current music manager. “English DJs all came over here,just so they could play unorthodox techno,which they simply couldn’t play in England.” Today the range of performances and genres in Subclub stretches from indie to rock‘n’roll, through reggae and both traditional and progressive bass music, as well as good old-fashioned techno. “The best thing about this club is definitely the diversity of genres,” said Juraj Šimkovič,who visits regularly. “I’ve experienced different kinds of fantastic concerts here and today I’m here because it’s on fire even though it’s the middle of the week.” Multicultural Back in the city, a multicultural hub is emerging on Karpatská Street,which is now home to about half a dozen bars and clubs in which congregate a variety of subcultures.Arguably the wildest and most famous venue over the past couple of decades has been Randal Club,which offers rock‘n’roll, punk and metal music in front of a large and loyal audience. “On regular nights it is to be avoided unlessyouwish to spendyour time in the companyof underagewannabes,” said Zuzana Hircová,a student from Bratislava,dressed all in black.“However if a trulyexceptional artist is to perform here allyour negativitysuddenlyunites with the others andvanishes to produce a contagious and revolutionaryenergythat is beyondwords and makesyou realise that punk and metal are not genres of music butways of life.” Slightlymore peaceful,but no less interesting,is the a4 – nultýpriestor,also on Karpatská Street.It is an established culture project that moved into these premises in 2012.a4 constantlyexpands the boundaries of contemporaryculture, with artists of anyvocation given the opportunityto present their talents.It has hosted theatrical performances,concerts, exhibitions,parties,lectures and a Sunday communitymarket. Clubs mentioned in the article 23Kultúrne centrum Dunaj www.kcdunaj.sk; Nedbalova 3, map C 3 (c 2); culture and music centre 46Subclub; www.subclub.sk; Nábrežie arm. gen. L. Svobodu; map A 3; music club 74A4; www.a4.sk; Karpatská 2, map D 1; culture and music centre 74Majestic Music Club www.majestic.sk; Karpatská 2 map D 1; music club 74Randal club www.randalclub.eu; Karpatská 2 map D 1; rock music Y1The Club; Hotel Park Inn Rybné nám. 1, map C 4; disco club Other clubs in the historical centre Y2Rio Grande Restaurant www.medusagroup.sk; Hviezdosla- vovo námestie 15, map C 4; night bar, live DJs Y3Lemon Tree; www.lemontree. sk; Hviezdoslavovo námestie 7 map C 4; Rum Club, Sky Bar Y4Le Club; www.medusagroup. sk; Hviezdoslavovo námestie 25, map C 4; night bar, live DJs Y5Trafo Music Bar www.medusagroup.sk; Erdödy Palace, Ventúrska 1, map C 3 (c 3); music bar Y6Masquerade Club www.masqueradeclub.sk Ventúrska 16, map C 3 (c 3) lounge bar and club Y7The Dubliner Irish Pub www.irish-pub.sk; Sedlárska 6, map C 3 (c 3); live music Y8Barrock www.medusagroup.sk Sedlárska 1, map C 3 (c 3); rock Y9Kabaret Cats Night Club; www.kabaretbratislava.sk; Michalská 2 (Old City Hotel passage), map C 3 (c 3) strip club Sleepy Bratislava by day; raucous Party-Slava by night Dunaj cultural centre offers a wide variety of events including club nights, literary readings, visual art exhibitions and discussions Y11 Y9 Y8 Y7 Y6 Y5 Y4 Y3 Y2 Y10 Y12 Y15 Y14 23 46 Y13 Y1 Photo: František Halás

bratislava: NIGHT LIFE 57 Y10U Dežmára; Klariská 1, map C 3 (c 3); music club Y11Infiniti Rock Cafe; www.musicbar.sk; Michalská 9, map C 3 (c 3); rock Y12Primi; www.primi.sk/ Michalska; Michalská19-21, map C 3 (c 1); disco, live DJs Y13Havana Café; www.havanacafe.sk; Michalská 26, map C 3 (c 1); Cuban music Y14Music bar Priatelia; www.musicbarpriatelia.sk Hurbanovo nám. 6 map C 3 (c 2); music bar Y15Channels Župné nám. 2, map C 3 (c 1); disco club Clubs - walking distance from the historical centre Ateliér Babylon; www.babylonatelier.sk; Námestie SNP 14, map D 3; theatre & music club British Rock Stars; Nám 1. mája 14, map C 2 live music club Klub Dole www.klubdole.sk; Námestie SNP 30, map C 3 (c 2); music club Moulin Rouge; www.stripdance.sk; Cintorínska 32, map E 3; strip club Nu Spirit Club; www.nuspirit.sk; Pasáž Luxor - Štúrova 3, map D 3; jazz, funk, soul Pub u zeléneho stromu; www.uzelenehostromu.sk; Vysoká 26, map D 2; music club Radosť Music Club; www.mojaradost.sk; Obchodná 48, map D 2; chill-out Rock OK; www.rockok.sk; Šafárikovo nám. 4, map D 4; music bar “I feel more thanwelcome to just come in and enjoya fewdrinks in a lovely bar that is open everydayof theweek and has the friendliest and most stimulating vibe in the city,” said Dominik Holíč,a student from Bratislava,who alsoworks in a music shop. Asimilar place can be found on Nedbalova Street,in the citycentre.The cultural centre Dunaj serves a dailymul- ticultural menu,including live concerts, club nights,literature,visual arts,theatre and discussionswith interesting person- alities.There is also a bar and a terrace, offering the bestviews of the OldTown. Dance club At the other end of the spectrum,The Club,situated in the Park Inn Danube Hotel,is one of the most luxurious,high- -design and fashion-conscious dance clubs in Bratislava.It is an elite Bratislava night spot and celebrityhang-out,hosting all the beautiful people and serving drinks at eye-watering prices. “It’s true that this place is quite expensive,but it definitelyprovides the best entertainment in Bratislava and so it’sworth all the money,” said FilipTimár, a student from Bratislava. Thisexclusivenightspotoffersvarious themeddiscosandthemeweekends,and boastsfamousDJsfromBratislavaand neighbouringcountries,butalsoacross theworld,onitsdecks,suchasG-Unit,DJ Antoine,LumideeorArminvanBuuren. TheClubisalsooneofthefewnightspots inEuropetouse3Dmappingprojection, whichtransportsitsgueststhroughdiffer- entperiodsoftimeandspace. In short,it doesn’t mater ifyou are a fan of reggae,dancehall,techno or old school disco music:youwill find a place to suityou in Bratislava.However,it is back to Subclub ifyouwant to find it all in one place. “Just look around,there’s no place like this,” said Michaela Žureková,a mu- sic journalist from Bratislava.“The light- ing,the intimate atmosphere,the bass... This unique atmosphere captivatesyou whatever eventyou attend and definitely leavesyou gasping for more.” Wilsonic festival One of the founders of Subclub,Tibor Holoda,is also behind theWilsonic electronic music festival,held in Bratislava in June.The festival,and its spin-off club nights,are a showcase for upcoming trends in electronic dance music and present a fusion of genres both old and new,mixing traditionwith experimentation.The festival takes place on one day.Its organisers have unveiled a series of clever technological innovations to make theWilsonic festival a massively fulfilling experience. -KristínaKrupčíková- The best thing about Subclub is the diversity of music genres it offers, says a regular visitor Photo: Gaspo Photography Photo: Gaspo Photography

58 bratislava: SHOPPING 49 River Park  page: 29 56 Eurovea  page: 30 M1 Aupark  Einsteinova 18  2.5 km (31 min) 3.4 km (5 min) u Aupark v 50, 80, 83, 84, 88, 91, 93, 94, 191 www.aupark-bratislava.sk a Mon-Fri 10:00-21:00, Sat-Sun 9:00-21:00 (shops); Mon-Sun 8:00-22:00 (supermarket); Mon-Sun 10:30-22:30 (cinema) é M2Central  Metodova 6; map F 1  2.4 km (30 min) 3.3 km (8 min) u Trnavské mýto v 2, 4, 8, 9, 31, 39, 51, 53, 61, 63, 64, 68, 74, 78, 201, 204, 209 www.central.sk a Mon-Sun 10:00-21:00 (shops/ restaurants); Mon-Sat 7:00-21:00; Sun 8:00-21:00 (supermarket) é M3Polus City Center  Vajnorská 100 5 km (10 min) u Polus City Center v 2, 4, 50, 51, 98 www.poluscitycenter.sk a Mon-Sun 9:00-21:00 (shops); Mon-Sun 8:00-21:00 (hypermarket); Mon-Fri 13:30-22:00, Sat-Sun 10:30-22:00 (cinema) é M4Avion  Ivánska cesta 16 11.4 km (10 min) u Avion Shopping Park v 61, 63, 65, 96 www.avion.sk a Mon-Sun 10:00-21:00 (shops); Mon-Sun 8:00-21:00 (hypermarket); Mon-Sun 9:00-21:00 (IKEA) é After Slovakia adopted a series of economic reforms during the first decade of this century,Bratislava has become one of the fastest growing regions in Europe and a construction boom has started all over the city.Developments have brought new life and spirit to many locations and created new living, business,shopping and leisure zones, popular among locals and tourists alike. Two shopping centres close to the city centre - Eurovea andAupark - are typical of these new developments. They both combine shops,bars and restaurants with entertainment facili- ties in a pleasant indoor and outdoor environment. Eurovea,completed in 2010,is a shiny,modern shopping facility,situated on the bank of the Danube between Old andApollo bridges.It represents a perfect combination of shopping and relaxation close to the city centre and features a number of modern,medium-height buildings that mark a clear contrast to older houses in the area. Although Eurovea is a single landmark itself,it comprises a series of smaller landmarks,including a low tower at the entrance to the complex which is reminiscent of London’s “Gherkin”.Eurovea’s central square is an ideal setting for cultural events,ranging from concerts,Christmas markets and the mass projection of sporting matches. (The square lies in front of the new building of the Slovak NationalTheatre (SND) which it is not officially part of Eurovea.) On the opposite side of the square, close to the embankment,stand two glorious statues.One depicts Milan Ras- tislav Štefánik,a scientist,astronomer, diplomat,brigadier general and one of the founders of the first independent Czechoslovak Republic.He is conse- quently one of the greatest and most famous Slovaks.The other statue is of a mighty lion holding the coat of arms of the former Czechoslovakia,remember- ing the common history of Slovakia and the Czech Republic.Both statues face Modern Bratislava Eurovea, on the banks of the Danube, offers numerous shops, entertainment and food options Zaha Hadid’s Bratislava project Čulenova (next to the Eurovea district) will bring apartments, offices and public space (Photo: Courtesy of Penta Investments / Zaha Hadid Architects)

bratislava: SHOPPING  59 the river Danube and Petržalka district,in order to greet po- tential incomers by boat. The embankment also offers a public park with three piers protruding over the lower paths with spec- tacular views over Eurovea, the Danube, bridges, and Petržalka opposite. Over on the Petržalka side of the river, between park Sad Janka Kráľa and the intersection of the SNP Bridge and highway D1, is Bratislava’s other major shop- ping complex: Aupark. “I likeAupark more,it’s our old and good friend,” said Cristina Botan, a student from Moldova.“It’s so great, when you can get almost everything in the same building.” Aupark is similar to Eurovea, but slightly older.A new part of the complex was finished in 2007, the controversial Aupark Tower, which was said by some to interfere with the favourite panorama from Bratislava castle, over the SNP Bridge and Petržalka.The tower went ahead and is already a prestigious business address, occupied by the headquarters of various companies. There was a similar discussion concerning the planning and building of River Park, designed by the Dutch architect Erick van Egeraat in 2005.Although some locals complained about the development, which comprises the five-star Grand Hotel River Park as well as offices, luxury flats and commercial premises about 10-15 minutes walk from the SNP Bridge, it is already a popular spot in the city and crowds often balloon onto the river path.The J&T Banka café here includes a “vertical garden” (literally, a selection of mosses, vines, trees and flowers that extends upwards in the bar), while children are excellently catered for by the Woow toy shop, milk bar, interactive game console and playgrounds both inside and out. As Bratislava becomes increasingly more modern,including a radically re- building of the airport,its bus and train stations are lagging well behind. “I spend a lot of time at Bratislava’s main station,and it can’t be compared with any other European station,” said Marek Soták,a student who frequently commutes to Bratislava.“It’s too small,filthy and is a repulsive gate to the city.For foreigners,it must be a shocking experience.” Advocates hope that the neglected place will soon be totally rebuilt into a modern transport hub combining the existing Museum of Transport with an under- ground shopping centre and maybe even a park with greenery that will become more welcoming entrance to Bratislava. There are similar feelings about the unsightly central bus station at Mlynské Nivy. “I think that this place is really dirty and neglected,” said Tomáš Vallo,who commutes to bus station daily. Local politicians and investors plan to rebuild it into a modern commercial centre with a new bus terminal. - Ivan Belko - River Park, designed by the Dutch architect Erick van Egeraat, has became a popular spot in the city. M5Shopping Palace  Cesta na Senec 2 14 km (16 min) u Cesta na Senec v 4, 53, 56, 57, 65, 630 www.shoppingpalace.sk a Mon-Sun 9:00-21:00; Mon-Sun non-stop (Tesco hypermarket) é M6Bory Mall  Lamač 6780;  14.4 km (12 min)  Bory Mall  21, 25, 92, 123 www.borymall.sk  Mon-Fri 10:00-21:00, Sat-Sun 9:00-21:00 (shops); Mon-Sat 8:00-22:00, Sun 8:00-21:00 (supermarket)  Milan Rastislav Štefánik, a scientist, astronomer, diplomat and brigadier general, is one of the founders of the first independent Czechoslovak Republic and one of the greatest and most famous Slovaks. His statue is located in Eurovea. M1 49 56 M2 M3 M5 M4 M6

60 bratislava: under communism Post socialist Bratislava city tours Meeting point: according to agre- ement Å +421 (0)908 308-234 www.authenticslovakia.com from €22 Guided ride along remains of the Iron curtain  possibility to be picked up anywhere in Bratislava www.what-bratislava.sk +421 (0)904 838 769 €20 per seat BrainTeaseLava Escape room with theme related to communist-era secret police (ŠtB) www.brainteaselava.sk  Obchodná 2, Bratislava  +421 (0)2 2102-5536 €49 (for team) booking necessary 46Subclub, www.subclub.sk  Nábrežie arm. gen. L. Svobodu; map B 4 Å +421 (0)903 776-633  for performances å é WC 51and 52Bridge of the Slovak National Uprising  page: 30 59Kamenné Square  page: 31 67Námestie Slobody (Freedom Square)  page: 33 68Slovak Radio page: 34 73Tržnica (market place)  Trnavské mýto; map F 1 3.6 km (8 min) u Trnavské mýto v 31, 39, 68, 78  Mon-Fri 6:00- 18:00 Sat 6:00-14:00 å é WC 77Slavín  page: 34 81Devín  page: 37 93Petržalka  page: 38 94B-S 8 Hřbitov closetotheterminalstopofbus 80(nexttotheareaofpoplars);map F46.7km(11min)uKopča- nyv80Å+421(0)902961-164 GApr-OctMon-Fri15:00-19:00 Sat-Sun14:00-19:00;Nov-Mar: Mon-Fri14:00-17:30,Sat-Sun 14:00-17:00voluntaryéWC www.bunker.bs8.sk S1Large dark hole (subway station)  Panónska cesta (close to the terminal stop of buses); map F 4  7.2 km (8 min) u Vozovňa Petržalka v 93, 95 www.mpba.sk S2Two majestic lions  Špitálska 14 (close to the Kamenné Square); map D 2  0.9 km (11min) u Mariánska v 3, 4, 9 exterior views only For all the massive political progress of the past couple of decades, the city of Bratislava still bears the scars of a turbulent 20th century,when it endured the horrors of two World Wars and then a long period under communist rule. In 2013 the city celebrates 20 years since it became the capital of the independent Slovak Republic but it is worth remembering the more difficult times. Several sites across Bratislava offer the chance for visitors to look back on the not-too-distant past, and understand something of the life of Bratislavans from the communist era. Petržalka All along the border withAustria are more than 20 bunkers remaining from the Second World War and these days one of them,known as B-S 8 Hřbitov in Petržalka,is a museum containing military uniforms,documents and photographs from the era.Another example is Bunker B-S 4 run by volunteers who provide for tourists also a guided ride along remains of the Iron curtain and pre-war bunker system in an old-time russian vehicle used by border guards during the communist era.But Petržalka itself also stands as a vivid reminder of the communist approach to housing a nation’s population: it is the biggest high-rise housing estate in central Europe,home to more than 100,000 people,packed into in vast “paneláks”,or pre-fabricated concrete blocks of flats. “Honestly,I have never seen a place before where there are so many similar buildings in such a huge space,” the Brit- ish architect Jonathan Falkingham told the Sme daily. Attempts to link Petržalka to the rest of Bratislava via a subway system were abandoned in 1989,leaving today a large,dark hole where the last stop was intended to be.It is located near the final stop of buses 93 and 95. Slavín Another enormous souvenir socialism left in Bratislava is Slavín,the vast monument to soldiers of the Soviet army who died in the battle to liberate the city at the end of the Second World War.The monument sits atop a hill just outside the city and offers one of the best views over Bratislava.But its construction came at a cost. Slavín is only 500 metres away from the Church of Our Lady of the Snows on Calvary mount,and the communists destroyed the church’s tower in 1960 as they felt it threatened the dominance of their new memorial. Around the city Slavín and the tower-less church are stopping points on a unique tour offered in Bratislava by a man named Branislav Chrenka,who ferries tourists around the various communist- era landmarks in a vintage Škoda car. Other interesting destinations include the famous upside- down pyramid building of the Slovak public service radio on 1 Mýtna When Bratislava shivered behind the Iron Curtain The first modern roofed marketpla- ce ever to open in the city: Tržnica on Trnavské mýto Bunker B-S 4 run by volunteers (Photo: www.mpo.sk)

bratislava: under communism 61 S3Museum of 17. November Small museum with photos and panels describing the time of the Velvet revolution (a series of events that brought about the collapse of communism)  Nám. SNP 8, Bratislava (back part of café of F.X. Messerschmidt)  +421 (0) 905 237-054  www.muzeumrevolucie.sk  Mon-Sun 8:30-21:00 (better to call)  free S4Miletičova (market place)  Miletičova 9 3.6 km (8 min) u Saleziáni v 8, 9, 68, 201, 205, 209, 212  Mon-Fri 6:00- 19:00 Sat 6:00-14:00 å é WC S5KGB  Obchodná 52 (close to the Freedom Square); map D 2 Å +421 (0)2 5273-1279 Mon-Wed 11:00-24:00 Thu 11:00-1:00 Fri 11:00-2:00 Sat 16:00-2:00 éWC S6Lacinka–Palacinka  Šancová 18; map C 1 Å +421 (0)2 5249-7414  Mon-Fri 11:00-21:00, Sun 14:00-21:00 å é WC S7Hotel Bôrik  Bôrik 15; 2.9 km (6 min) u Jančova v 203, 207 Å +421 (0)2 5998-1000 www.hotelborik.gov.sk é WC S8Museum B-S 4  Bunker close to the border with Austria (Berg), from parking area (almost on border) follow the signs Bunker B-S 4, location is also published on www.mpo.sk/en/ kontakt/  +421 (0)904 838-769  www.mpo.sk/en/museum/  Apr-Oct: Sat 11:00-18:00 (entrance every hour) Nov-Mar: closed € voluntary Street,the work of the architect Štefan Svetko.He also designed the modernist Hotel Bôrik,which was built in 1974 as luxurious accommodation for visiting diplomats. Further along Mýtna Street is what is now officially known as Námestie slobody (Freedom Square).Locals may, however,refer to it as “Gottko” recalling its name under the previous regime: Gottwaldovo,after Klement Gottwald, the fifth president of Czechoslovakia.The statue of Gottwald is long gone,leaving the biggest fountain in Bratislava,but which has been out of order since 2007,to dominate the square. Evidence of the communist regime’s presence in Bratislava can also be less obvious.At 12 Špitálska Street,near the OldTown and Kamenné námestie (square),for example,visitorswill notice two majestic lions either side of an impressive entrance.Thiswas one of the first homes of the ŠtB state security service,before the organisation moved to its better-known headquarters Februárka, at 45 Račianska Street (nowa police HQ). According to František Neupauer,who is behind an initiative to open a Museum of Crimes andVictims of Communism in Bratislava,many opponents of the previous regimewere interrogated in this building. Thesocialist atmosphereisstillvery muchpresentinthe marketplaceon Miletičova,which isthebiggestinBratislava, andatthefirstmodernroofedmarket placeevertoopeninthecity:Tržnicaon Trnavskémýto. The construction of SNP Bridge in the 1960-70s had a major impact on the city. A significant part of the historical centre was destroyed during the construction including almost all of the Jewish quarter. Today,what was once a bomb shelter near the bridge houses Subclub nightclub (see page 56). SECRET POLICE It is also possible to recall the previous era at escape room Brainteaselava located on Obchodná street. Courageous visitors can travel back a couple of decades when the communist-era secret police ŠtB monitored the regime enemies.The game is based on escaping from the apartment of a police officer but only with a forgotten passport of a local dissident who cannot leave the country without it.A great deal of short but demanding tasks linked to historical events of Bratislava supplement contemporary facilities in rooms including massive furniture, old technical apparatuses and portraits of the communist leaders Lenin and Stalin. “It is a great challenge with a nice atmosphere and the rooms represented the communist era very good,” said Alexandra Klein who came from Austria. Foreign tourists comprise half of all visitors and commonly discover the game online on Tripadvisor or similar websites. Devín Arguably one part of Bratislava in which the communist presence was most keenly felt was Devín, only a stone’s throw across the Morava river into Austria - tantalisingly close to freedom.The area beneath the castle was among the narrowest stretches of the Iron Curtain, the largely impenetrable border between the Soviet nations and the West. It meant that the region became a popular spot for would-be deserters to attempt their escapes. According to Ľubomír Morbacher, former employee of the Nation’s Memory Institute, more than 100,000 people fled the Eastern Bloc. Some of these people seeking freedom fled through Devín.The number includes departures during times “when leaving the country was still possible”, then “when it was very difficult to depart” as well as the emigration wave in 1968-69, Morbacher said. It also meant the Devín area was under permanent guard with residents living side-by-side with troops. Of course, not every escape attempt was successful and a poignant monument, riddled with symbolic bullet holes, sits at the foot of the castle and remembers those killed during their bids for freedom.  - Michaela Džomeková - 81 S1 94 S8 93 51 46 S2 73 S6 S5 77 S7 S4 S3

62 bratislava: religion Sunday services in foreign languages Roman Catholic Church 21 Church of the Merciful Brothers 11:30 (Italian)  page: 18 29 Church of St John of Matha 9:00 (Latin)  page: 20 38 St Martin’s Cathedral 7:45 (GER), 9:00 (Latin)  page: 24 60 Church of St Ladislaus 11.00 (ENG)  page: 32 OTHER CHRISTIAN CHURCHES Malý evanjelický kostol (Small Evangelical Church)  Panenská Street (entrance from Lýcejná Street), map C 2 8:15 (GER), 9:30 (ENG) bratislavainternationalchurch.org Citylight Church  Nám. 1.mája 1, map C 2; 10:00 (ENG); www.citylightbratislava.com Bratislava International Fellowship  Sreznevského 2; 10:00 (ENG) www.bif.sk International Baptist Church  Súľovská 2; 10:00 (ENG) www.ibcb.baptist.sk Jewish service 62Jewish Synagogue Friday evening (before twilight), Saturday morning (usually at 9:00), and during feasts. Services held in Hebrew.  page: 32 For some contemporaryvisitors, Bratislava is merely Party-Slava,home of nightclubs and bars.But that view of the city is only a modern one: for hundreds of years the dominant presence here has been religion,and Bratislava remains a wonderful place in which to sit in the cool shadows of ancient walls and statues of saints,or to contemplate in silence while basking in the sunlight reflected through the majestic coloured windows of its spectacular places of worship. Since as long as records go back,Bratislava has been the destination for pilgrims who have come to engage with the city’s rich spiritual history.There are five sites in Bratislava that are of particular relevance and to which pilgrims continue to come to pay homage. Johnthe Almoner One of the first places most tourists will visit in Bratislava is St Martin’s Cathedral, one of the greatest monuments of the city and significant as the coronation church of the Hungarian Kingdom.It is also a specific pilgrimage destination.In the Chapel of St John the Almoner (Kaplnka sv. JánaAlmužníka) on the left side of the church,are the mortal remains of John the Merciful. John,also known as John the Merciful,was the patriarch of Alexandria,born in Cyprus in the seventh century.His body took a circuitous route to Slovakia,via Istanbul (which was then Constantinople) and Venice,before arriving in Slovakia, probably in the mid 16th century.His remains are now stored in a glazed silver shrine above the altar in the chapel that bears his name. Chatam Sófer Bratislava has also always been an important centre of Jewish culture,despite suffering long periods of persecution common across Europe, as well as a series of construction projects that have devastated former Jewish neighbourhoods. Nevertheless,one crucial site in the city has remained intact and is nowvisited by Jews from across the world. The old Jewish cemetery,at the bottom of the castle hill,dates from the 17th century and at one time contained around 6,000 graves.Much of it was destroyed in 1942-43 when a tram tunnel was built under the castle,exiting through the cemetery. Latterly,the rest of the former Jewish quarter was razed during construction of the SNP Bridge in 1969. However, one of the tombs that was saved and is now preserved in a tiny underground room is the final resting place of Chatam Sófer, the orthodox scholar born Moshe Schreiber in 1762 and who died in 1839. Sófer became Chief Rabbi of Pressburg in 1806 and also headed the yeshiva (rabbinical school) in the city. He was a strictly Orthodox rabbi. Somehow his tomb was saved despite the massive societal upheavals and the scarring of the landscape. Most visitors now come in September, on the anniversary of his death, to pay their respects. “This town was always tolerant,” said Viera Kamenická, from the Museum of Jewish Culture in Bratislava, part of the Slovak National Museum. They come from far and wide St Martin’s Cathedral, the coronation church of monarchs, is one of the greatest monuments of the city. Pilgrims often visit the cathedral to see mortal remains of John the Merciful The final resting place of Chatam Sófer (on the photo), the Chief Rabbi of Pressburg, whose tomb was saved despite the scarring of the landscape Photo: Viera Kamenická

bratislava: religion 63 38St Martin’s Cathedral  page: 24 48Chatam Sófer  page: 29 78Lourdes cave  Pod Kalváriou, map B 1; The cave is located close to the Church of Our Lady of the Snows an approximate 20-minute walk along Hlboká Street from the bus stop SAV; map B, C 1  2.3 km (26 min) 3.9 km (8 min) u SAV v 21, 25, 32, 34, 63, 64, 83, 84, 93, 141, 184, 204, 206, 209, 212 R6Marianka (Marian Valley)  Marianka (to visit the pilgrimage site - follow the street Námestie 4. apríla and descend to located The Marian Way and The Way of the Cross sacred journey featured by many landmarks as The Church of the Nativity of the Virgin Mary) 18 km (19 min) v 28 min (www.cp.sk) Å+421 (0)2 6593-5226 (parish office) 7:45-19:00, summer season 7:45-20:00 U Mon-Sat 8:00, 18:00 Sun 8:00, 9:15, 10:30, 18:30 voluntary e WC R2 Malacky (Holy Stairs)  Kláštorné námestie 3, Malacky 37 km (29 min) v 38 min (www.cp.sk) Å+421 (0)34 772-2189 temporarily closed (Holy Stairs) U Mon-Sat 7:00, 18:30 Sun 7:00, 9:00, 11:30, 18:30 e é WC Calvary There was once also a Calvary in the hills of Bratislava, close to the Church of Our Lady of the Snows. But 13 of its 14 stops were destroyed during the previous regime, as well as the tower of the church, leaving only the peaceful Lourdes cave. It contains a statue of the Virgin Mary, surrounded by hundreds of marble plaques offering thanks. Although plans for redevelop- ment of the whole Calvary are often discussed, priorities tend to be with the reconstruction of existing monu- ments rather than building from new, and there are no fixed dates for the construction. Holy stairs One last special, but almost forgotten, pilgrimage destination is in the town of Malacky, about 40 kilometres from Bratislava. Contained in a chapel to the right of the main Franciscan church is a copy of the Holy Stairs (Scala sancta) from Rome,which Christ climbed to meet Pontius Pilate during his trial. The staircase is considered to be one of the most faithful copies existing anywhere in the world, but is visited by only a few hundred pilgrims per year.The stairs are currently under reconstruction. Marian valley Another of the most visited and most important pilgrimage sites in Slovakia is the Marian Valley and the village of Marianka, the oldest Catholic pilgrimage destination in Slovakia and one of the oldest in the whole of central Europe.As the name suggests, the whole area is devoted to the Virgin Mary and includes numerous holy sites, drawing pilgrims from across the region for several centuries. The most significant sites are the Pilgrimage Church of the Nativity of Virgin Mary (Kostol Narodenia Panny Márie), a shrine to the Virgin Mary that has come to be known as the Lourdes cave, the Chapel of the Holy Well, and the Way of the Cross,which has 14 stopping points. Many legends have grown up concerning the healing powers of a visit to the area, and to be gained from praying to a statue of the Virgin Mary believed to date from 1030.Two years ago, the Marian Valley also gained the privileges of a basilica minor,which means visitors can obtain indulgence here. The Marian Valley is visited by 200–300 pilgrims on the first Saturday of every month, increasing to 500–1,000 during good weather. Regardless of the conditions, the Feast of the HolyTrinity, in spring (May or June), and the Feast of Nativity of Our Lady, in September, usually attract 5,000–6,000 pilgrims annually. - Dušan Dudík - The Marian Valley has nurtured many legends about the healing power of the area A copy of the Holy Stairs from Rome in Malacky, considered one of the most faithful copies in the world R6 48 78 38 R2

64 bratislava: nations Bratislava has always been a multicultural city,the result of its location on the crossing of trade routes and close to several national borders.Its traditional composition of inhabitants has typically depended on the current ruling nation and the political situation in central Europe,which has been in flux for many hundreds of years. Indeed,Bratislavahasevenchanged itsnamenumeroustimes,withprevious generationsoflocalsreferringtoitas Pressburg,PozsonyorPrešporkand evenaperiodspentas“Wilson’s Town”aftertheAmericanpresident WoodrowWilson.Representa- tivesofeverynationhaveleft evenmorepermanenttraces ontheSlovakcapital,and itisoftenpossibletotrace thesevariousoccupationsat numeroussitesinthecity. Hungary andAustria Alongwith the former federationwith the Czech Republic (Czechoslovakia) Bratislava is most commonlyassociated withAustria and Hungarywhich border Slovakia to thewest (Austria) and to the south (Hungary).Bratislava spent nearly300years as the coronation cityand capital of the Hungarian Kingdom,and in addition to the shared history,there are numerous examples ofAustrian and Hungarian styled architecture from the period. Manyof these date specifically from era of Queen MariaTheresa,who reigned between 1740-80 and oversawa prodigious period of construction.Several governmental buildings,newpalaces and waterworkswere all built during these 40years as thewhole town became the centre of social and political life for the empire. The Austro-Hungarian Empire was composed of several nations, including the countries of central Europe and some of today’s Balkan states. It meant that Germans, Czechs and Croatians have also made their home in Bratislava, as well as a Jewish population whose numbers predictably – and dreadfully – declined during the mid 20th century. Spain, Denmark and France Spainalsohaslinksto Bratislava.In1631Mariana ofSpain,theyoungest daughterofSpanish KingFelipeIIIand MargaritaofAustria, marriedFerdinandIII, theheiroftheHungarian crown.Shewascrowned, togetherwithher husband,inStMartin’s Cathedralin1638. There are several sculptures and plaques in the cityto commemorate thevisit of numerous famous historical figures or to mark significant events.The Danish fairytalewriter Hans ChristianAndersen has his statue on Hviezdoslavovo Square; the Czechoslovak presidentTomáš Garrigue Masaryk stands in front of the Slovak National Museum; and there is a sculpture of the Hungarian poet Sándor Petőfi in Medická Garden. Astatue depicting a Napoleonic soldier leans on a bench in the Main Square and the French presence in Bratislava is also commemorated on a plaque in the Primate’s Palace,recalling the signing of theTreatyof Pressburg in 1805.Diplomats from France andAustria signed it after the battle ofAusterlitz, whichwaswon byNapoleon. Poland,Indiaand Italy PopeJohnPaulIIvisitedBratislavaseve- raltimesaftertheVelvetRevolutionand thereisastatueofhiminNámestieJána PavlainPetržalka,commemoratinga1995 trip,andabronzereliefintheUrsuline ChurchandConventinthecitycentre. In 1938, Bratislava also welcomed Indian dignitaries. One of the plaques oposite to the McDonald’s at Hviezdo- slavovo Square recalls the visit of Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru,with his daughter Indira Gandhi, the leaders of the Indian freedom movement against British rule. SEVERAL NATIONS N1Presidential Alley 28 trees planted in the Presidential Garden by official visitors to the country  page: 72-73 Euroarboretum Partizánska Lúka in the Železná studienka area  page: 37 AUSTRIA Several sites related to the Austro-Hungarian empire BRAZIL Bratislava is the name of a small town in the south of Brazil BULGARIA Memorial to the victims on board the Bulgarian “Tabso” plane that crashed here. Sakrakopec (between Bratislava-Rača district and Svätý Jur) CROATIA Museum of Croatian Culture in Slovakia  page: 50-52 65 Grassalkovich Palace (Presidential Palace) Grassalkovich Palace is named after the Croatian aristocrat Antun Grassalkovich  page: 33 A city of a hundred nations A bronze circle inlaid in the path beneath Michael’s Gate, in Bratislava’s Old Town Bratislava experienced a “golden age” under the rule of Maria Theresa N2 62 N1 65 2 N4 N5 N6 38 43 N3 35 4 42 29 24 47 13 16

bratislava: nations 65 THE CZECH REPUBLIC Several sites related to the former Czechoslovakia 2Statue of Tomáš Garrigue Masaryk Statue in front of the Slovak National Museum  page: 12 57Czech lion Statue at Nábr. M. R. Štefánika on the square in Eurovea DENMARK N4Statue of Hans Christian Andersen  Hviezdoslavovo nám. 13; map C 4 FRANCE 13Statue of a Napoleonic soldier  page: 15 16Primate’s Palace Plaque recalling the signing of the Treaty of Pressburg in 1805 (after Napoleon’s victory in the Battle of Austerlitz)  page: 17 GERMANY Spuren deutscher Kultur in Bratislava Free iPhone app prepared by Goethe Institute, which examines German heritage in Bratislava. Download at www.goethe.de 47Museum of Carpathian Germans Culture located in Zuckermandel  page: 28 Stollwerck factory  Račianska 44; Former chocolate factory of the Stollwerck-family (buildings currently belong to Mondeléz Slovakia) N2Home of Segner family  Michalská 7, map C 3 (c 1); The German family Segner moved to Bratislava at the turn of the 16th and 17th centuries. Andreas Regner served as Bratislava’s mayor in the 17th century. His great-grand son Johann Andreas Segner (1704 Brati- slava – 1777 Halle) was a university professor and his sculpture is located at the Nábr. arm. gen. L. Svobodu. Cintorín Vrakuňa (cemetery)  Popradská; Around 1,000 German soldiers are buried in the cemetery u Cintorín Vrakuňa v65, 75, 201, 202 HUNGARY Several sites related to the Austro-Hungarian empire Sculpture of Sándor Petőfi In Medická záhrada (garden)  page: 72-73 47Museum of Hungarian Culture in Slovakia located in Zuckermandel  page: 28 The Italian presence in the cityis best represented through the artworks in PálffyPalace and Bratislava Castle.There are manyItalian paintings from the 16th century,which “always attract the curios- ityofvisitors since theywitness cultural ties dating back for hundreds ofyears between our two countries,” said Roberto Rizzo,deputyhead of mission of the Ital- ian Embassyin Bratislava.Moreover,the Church of St John of Matha has frescoes of the Italian baroque painterA.Galli Bibi- ena,while the mirrors in the Mirror Hall of the Primate’s Palace come fromVenice, Rizzo added. Jewish sites The Jewish population of Bratislava is small these days, but there have previously been vibrant communities in the city, living mostly in the residential area around the castle.The Jewish burial shrine that includes the tomb of Chatam Sófer and the graves of some other prominent rabbis and scholars is all that remains of what was once a much larger Jewish cemetery. But Renáta Cáková, the press manager of the Israeli Embassy in Bratislava, also pointed to a handful of buildings that have survived elsewhere: the only remaining synagogue in the Slovak capital on Heydukova Street; the Holocaust memorial on Rybné Square and the old Jewish quarters: Zámocká and Židovská Streets.There is also the Museum of Jewish Culture located on Židovská Street,which was opened in 1994 as part of the Slovak National Museum. Other traditional minorities living in Bratislava have their own museums showcasing their cultures: Croatians have one in Devínska Nová Ves, Hungarians and Carpathian Germans both have museums on Žižkova Street.All of them operate under the Slovak National Museum. The Hungarian minority is the biggest minority in Slovakia and represents 8.5 percent of all inhabitants. Slovenia,Russia, Bulgariaand United Kingdom Bratislava also has a reputed connection with Slovenia,specifically at Devín Castle.Many Slovenians believe that the castle is connected with the Italian town of Duino,nearTrieste,whose Slovene name is Devín and which has a large Slovenian population.Duino is also the setting for a popular Slovenian folk legend “Lepa Vida”. The former Soviet Union has,of course,also had a significant impact on Bratislava,and there are numerous sites that recall the era of the mid-20th century.None is more obvious than the Slavín monument,which remembers the lives of the 6,845 Soviet soldiers who died during the liberation of Bratislava inApril 1945,many of whom are buried in six mass and 278 individual graves. The monument is surrounded by a park containing trees from various parts of the former Soviet Union. It is not the only military cemetery in the city.There is another near Kopčianska Street in Petržalka (open daily in the afternoons betweenApril- October) with 331 graves of soldiers from Hungary,Austria,Germany,Romania, Poland,Russia and Italy.Čunovo,just outside of Bratislava,is where British visitors head to pay respects to the crew of a British aircraft shot down there while fighting the Nazis in the Second World War.Many Slovaks fought alongside the British during the conflict. Slovakia’s main connectionwith Bulgaria is similarlytragic.In November 1966 a Bulgarian “Tabso” plane crashed in Sakrakopec,near Rača, killing The decoration of the dome of the Church of St John of Matha is a masterpiece by A. Galli Bibiena A statue of the Hungarian poet Sándor Petőfi, located in the Medická záhrada (garden) A popular photo point beside a statue of a Napoleonic soldier

66 bratislava: nations all 82 of its passengers.Among thevictims was the Bulgarian opera singer Jekaterina Popova and thewriter RamonAmador from Honduras.Itwas theworst plane tragedyin the former Czechoslovakia and is commemorated by82 birch trees planted near the crash site.Amemorial with stone cross and plaquewas added in May2010,aswell as an inscription on one of the trees. Germany In June 2013, the Goethe Institute launched an internet-based application called “Spuren” (“Traces”),which examines the German heritage in Bratislava. Historians have identified several locations in and around the city that are linked in some way to famous personalities of German descent or can be associated to important events.Visitors can take a walk through Bratislava following the traces of its German past on their smart-phones. Among these are a few sites that are largely unknown to the general public, including the former chocolate factory of the Stollwerck-family, the home of Segner family and the war cemetery which is part of Cintorín Vrakuňa (cemetery),where around 1,000 German soldiers,who died in the battles in and around Bratislava towards the end of the Second World War, are buried. BraZIL and USA Many Slovaks have, of course, often gone in the opposite direction to the many immigrants who have made their home in Bratislava.There are pieces of the capital city scattered around the world. For instance, Bratislava is still the name of a small town in the south of Brazil established by Slovak emigrants many decades ago.Though you will not find any “pure” Slovaks there nowadays, some central European blood still runs through the veins of the town’s inhabitants. Many have blue eyes, according to Luiz Francisco Pandia Braconnot, the minister-counsellor at the Brazilian Embassy in Bratislava. Many Slovak nationals and their descendants also live in the United States, particularly those displaced during the Second World War.An increasing number now return to Bratislava to investigate their family history. “While there are not specific sites in Bratislava that attract visitors from the United States, manyAmericans trace their family roots to Slovakia,” said Matthew Miller from the US Embassy in Bratislava. “In addition, manyAmericans are drawn to the rich history and culture of Bratislava and the beauty of the surrounding countryside.” Croatia,Norway and other nations Bratislava’s multicultural status is nowhere more apparent than along the so-called Presidential Alley in the gardens of the Presidential Palace,whe- re every visiting foreign head of state is invited to plant a small tree. Rudolf Schuster started the tradition in 1999 and today there are 28 trees represen- ting official visitors to the country. (The palace itself actually bears the name of a foreign national: Grassalkovich Palace is named after the Croatian aristocrat Antun Grassalkovich, according to Petra Sabin Wenzlová from the Croatian Embassy in Bratislava.) Euroarboretum on Partizánska Lúka, in the popular Železná studienka area, follows a similar theme.When it is finished, it will include a representative tree from each nation in the European Union, along with an information panel about forestation there. In addition, there are some streets in Bratislava bearing the names of nations: Česká (Czech), Vietnamská (Vietnamese), Bulharská (Bulgarian), Poľská (Polish), Bieloruská (Bielorus), Estónska (Estonian), Lotyšská (Latvian). It is difficult, however, to trace the reason behind these names. One exception, however, is the street named after the Norwegian writer Björnstjerne Björnson who was an advocate of Slovak national language and identity. Björnson’s Street (Björnsonova) near the so-called pyramid building of the Slovak Radio carries a small memorial plaque. There is also a courtyard named for him at the Slovak Philharmonic building which was reconstructed partly with funds from Norway. “Do you want me to tell a fairy tale about Bratislava? But the town itself is a tale,” said Björnson and Slovaks remember his positive attitude toward their country with gratitude. - Radka Minarechová, Ján Pallo - INDIA N3Plaque  Rybárska brána 8 map C 3 (c 4); Plaque near a restaurant recalling the visit of Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru ITALY 16Primate’s Palace Mirrors from Venice in the Mirror Hall of the Primate’s Palace  page: 17 29Frescoes Frescoes by the Italian baroque painter A. Galli Bibiena in the Church of St John of Matha  page: 20 35Artworks in Pálffy Palace  page: 22 42Artworks in Bratislava Castle  page: 26 JEWISH SITES 43Museum of Jewish Culture  page: 50-52 48Chatam Sófer  page: 29 62Synagogue  page: 32 N5Holocaust memorial Rybné Square; map C 4 N6Jewish quarters  Zámocká and Židovská streets; map B,C 3 (c 3) NORWAY Memorial plaque to Björnstjerne Björnson  Björnsonova Street; map D 1 4Reduta Courtyard named after Björnstjerne Björnson at the Slovak Philharmonic building (reconstructed partly with funds from Norway)  page: 12 POLAND Statue John Paul II A statue of Pope John Paul II stands in a square named after him in Petržalka 24The Ursuline Church Bronze relief of Pope John Paul II in the Ursuline Church  page: 19 RUSSIA 77Slavín  page: 34 SLOVENIA 81Devín Castle  page: 37 SPAIN 38St Martin’s Cathedral Mariana of Spain was crowned in the cathedral in 1638  page: 24 UNITED KINGDOM Čunovo A monument to five British airmen killed when their plane was shot down here in 1944 16Primate’s Palace The so-called Mortlake Tapestries in the Primate’s Palace were woven in the UK in 1635  page: 17 USA Forashortperiodin1919,Bratislava wasknownasWilsonovomesto (Wilson‘sCity)afterWoodrow Wilson. TreesinthePresidentialAlley,whichwereplantedbyvisitingVIPs

bratislava: bird‘s - eye view 67 Helicopter tour www.flight.sk  Čulenova 5 (office); Å +421 (0)905 329-217  €69.42 (start of a tour based on agreement) Balloon Flights www.balony.sk  Pluhová 2 (office) Å +421 (0)911 225-577 from €172/person (min. 4 persons; start of a tour based on agreement) 14Old Town Hall Tower  page: 16 27St Michael’s Gate  page: 20 42Bratislava Castle  page: 26 51SNP Bridge  page: 30 77Slavín  page: 34 85TV Tower Kamzík  page: 38 Sky bar restaurant  Hviezdoslavovo nám. 7 map C 4 Å +421 (0)5441- 1244 www.skybar.sk Outlook Bar & Lounge  Lindner Hotel Gallery Central, Metodova 4; map F 1 Å +421 (0)2 3993-0000 www.lindner.de Bratislava possesses many places of interest,some of which can make visitors and locals alike stop and stare in awe - even if it is just to consider the feat of engineering or architecture they are looking at.Many of these places even allowvisitors inside them,offering the opportunity to admire the monuments themselves from the outside,or the city below from within. For those who enjoywatching the chaos of an anthill,the best choice in Bratislava (apart from a helicopter tour) is the observation deck of the SNP Bridge, which spans the Danube and provides the vital link between the city centre and Petržalka.The bridge has an observation deck and restaurant on the top of its only pylon,95 metres above the ground.It combines luxury dining with spectacular views over an area of about 100 km. Less than a kilometre to the east once stood a steel bridge called Starý Most (Old Bridge),which was the first to link both banks of the river. Destroyed during the Second World War and rebuilt by the Soviet army, nowadays it is closed for road traffic. However pedestrians can enjoy a view of two of Bratislava’s iconic sights: the SNP bridge and the castle. Other options exist for views over the OldTown,including from the Old Town HallTower at the Main Square and Michael’s Gate at Michalská Street. Another option is the Sky bar restaurant at Hviezdoslavovo Square,next to the US embassy.It has a terrace on the top of the building with a glass roof.Be sure to make a reservation. Bratislava Castle offers another possibility to look on the city from above.Its gardens offer an excellent view,free of charge,over the city and the Danube.Another possibility is to visit the castle and climb its CrownTower, which apart from being one of the oldest parts of the castle offers a 360° view into four countries in case of good weather: Slovakia,Hungary,Austria and the Czech Republic. Outside the centre,on one of the hilltops above the city perches the Slavín war memorial,dedicated to the fallen soldiers of RedArmywho liberated Bratislava in 1945.The park features a magnificent view over the eastern part of the city,in addition to the military cemetery.In the middle is a 39.5 m high column,topped with a statue of a Soviet soldier erecting the flag above the liberated Bratislava and crushing a swastika under his feet. The almightyTVTower,which can be seen from every direction,also houses Altitude restaurant on a rotating deck. It offers a 360° panorama of Bratislava and the surrounding region,including a glimpse intoAustria,Hungary and the Czech Republic. Hotel Lindner,opened in May 2013,is another possibility.It offers a view over the city from its Outlook Bar & Lounge at the 13th floor. Unfortunately some of the city’s other landmark towers are not open to the public.The distinctive upside down pyramid building is the home of Slovak Radio,and one of the city’s highest modern skyscrapers is owned by the National Bank of Slovakia,Slovakia’s central bank.Visitors will have to make do with the other scenic overlooks noted above. - Ivan Belko - Peering at Bratislava from above

68 bratislava: extreme sports There are manyways to experience Bratislava,and if you have sufficient courage,you might want to try to view the Slovak capital while hanging from an elastic cord over the Danube,or tumbling down a hill in a giant plastic balloon. There’s plenty of time to explore the city’s historical monuments, cultural sites and excep- tional architecture,but if you want to cut loose and do something crazy on your trip to Bratislava,there is also a world of extreme sports waiting for you in the city. Jumping Are you afraid? You should be. “I thought I was about to find my- self in the Danube,” said Peter Kováč, a 21-year-old student from Žiar nad Hronom,who was brave enough to try a bungee jump from Bratislava’s Lafran- coni Bridge, a 25-metre-high plummet towards the water. “In a split second of a free-fall, I saw the oncoming water and my heart was squeezed by fear.” The only restrictions on willing daredevils are that theyweigh less than 110kg and part with €28 (€11 if there is a discount).Otherwise anyone is welcome to throw themselves off the bridge,with only the bungee keeping them safe. “Everything underneath me was moving away,” Kováč said. “The pillars of the bridge were dis- appearing, the trees and benches on the shore were also becoming smaller, the SNP Bridge and even Bratislava Castle in the distance were mov- ing. Everything except the river was in motion.” Renáta Pospíšilová, a 20-year-old student from Poprad, also jumped from the Lafranconi Bridge. “People passing by started encouraging me [to jump]. I was standing there, staring downwards, looking at those people and I asked myself if it was all really necessary. Originally I felt courageous, but later on all these feelings were sup- pressed by fear.That was the moment my brain turned off and I had no choice but simply to jump.” OFF-ROAD Another option for visitors to Bratislava is a special drive with an electric car or on an off-road course at carmaker Volkswagen Slovakia, located in Devínska Nová Ves. For the off-roading, the company uses a specially modified vehicle at a track which simulates various rough terrains, from a wooden roadway, through sand,water and steps, to hills at various gradients. Visitors can either ride as a passenger or take a turn behind the wheel with the help of an instructor. It does not matter if you are afraid of heights, water or 80bVolkswagen (off-road)  page: 37 98Area Divoká voda Rafting ride  Vodné Dielo – Čunovo; map F 4  21 km (22 min) u MiÚ Čunovo v 91 Å +421 (0)2 6252-8002 www.divokavoda.sk a Mon-Sun 9:00-19:00  €26  WC Pendulous jump from Lafranconi Bridge  Lafranconi Bridge; 5.7 km (7 min) u Lafranconi v 4, 5, 6, 9, 28, 29, 30, 31, 37, 39, 131, 133 Å +421 (0)2 6252-8077 www.actionzazitky.sk a Jan-Dec€11 Action Park Zorbing-Rolling in a bubble  Schengenská – Čunovo 18.6 km (20 min) u MiÚ Čunovo v 91Å +421 (0)904 223-333 www.actionpark.sk a Mon-Fri booking necessary, Sat-Sun 11:00-19:00 from €8  WC The place offers several extreme and unusual sports Laser Arena (laser games)  Prešovská 45  4.7 km (11 min)  Bajkalská  39, 53, 61, 63, 74, 75, 78, 98, 204, 205  +421 (0)903 914-386 www.laserarena.sk from €5  Mon-Fri 13:00-24:00, Sat: 13:00-24:00, Sun 13:00-22:00 “I felt like Iwas in awashing machine”: Welcome to Extreme Bratislava Those brave enough can try a bungee jump from Lafranconi Bridge The white-water Divoká voda area in Čunovo offers rafting trip under the guidance of experienced instructors Photo: Martin Janata

bratislava: extreme sports 69 Escape games €50 (for team), booking necessary Izba č. 13 (Room Thirteen) www.izbacislo13.sk/ba  Cintorínska 7, Bratislava  +421 (0) 948 268 613 BrainTeaseLava Escape room with theme related to communist-era secret police (ŠtB)  pages: 60-61 EscapeRoom.sk www.escaperoom.sk  Vajnorská 48, Bratislava  +421 (0)940 590-122 Paniq Room (www.paniqroom.sk)  Hattalova 12/B, Bratislava  +421 (0)904 380-790 Extreme rides on the river speadboats, water scooters, water- skiing, kneeboarding, towables... www.prenajom-lodi.sk  start of a ride based on agree- ment  +421 (0)910 312-399 from €110 per hour SpeedBoats.sk www.speedboats.sk  +421 (0)903 610-716  start of a ride based on agree- ment from €180 (for team) Jump aréna  Ivánska cesta 30/D, Bratislava  9 km  +421 (0)2 2086-2411 www.jumparena.sk €9.9 / hour indoor karting Kart One Arena (www.kartarena.sk)  Kopčianska 82 5 km (6 min)  +421 (0)911 818-122;  Mon-Fri 14:00-24:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-24:00 €8 (10 min) Max 60 (www.motokary.sk)  Vajnorská 127/A 5 km (11 min)  +421 (0)907 606-060  Mon-Thu, Sun 11:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00 €8 / ride Space World (laser games)  Račianska 22/A  3 km (7 min)  Ursínyho  3, 5, 7, 11, 17, 515  +421 (0)918 235-433 www.spaceworld.sk  Mon 13:00-20:00, Tue-Fri 13:00-23:00, Sat 10:00-23:00, Sun 10:00-22:00 €5 (12 min) Paintball  Mierová kolónia 7 km (14 min) u Vihorlatská v 58 Å +421 (0)902 347-315 www.bratislavapaintball.sk a booking necessary €8 Orechová Potôň-Slovakia Ring Car racing;  page: 101 speed. You can scream as much as you like as you enjoy the more extreme view of Bratislava. Rafting Even though the jump will certainly increase the adrenalin pumping around your body,you won’t even get wet.The same cannot be said of the experiences on offer at Čunovo, Slovakia’s paradise for water sports,where visitors are invi- ted to paddle their way down a number of courses of rapids. The area known as Divoká Voda was established in 1995 and since then it has hosted numerous prestigious European and world canoeing and kayaking events. No other place in Slovakia offers you a better rafting ride than Čunovo, but newcomers are as welcome as the experienced. One-hour raft trips are available with five other people and an instructor. “It begins peacefully, but suddenly water drags you in like a sink and there is no way back,” said Slavo Mrug, a 23-year-old student from Stará Ľubovňa, who experienced the power of waves in Čunovo. “If somebody makes a mistake, the raft starts turning around, it rolls down the bank backwards and you do not know whether you will bump into a rock, or capsize or fall from the boat. That’s why you have to follow the direc- tions of the instructor and paddle the way he navigates you.” Rafting demands humility from its participants and respect for all the safety rules. “Every instructor takes responsibility for his crew and therefore it is essential that everyone follows the instructions,” said Martin Janata, 19, a student at the Business Academy in Bratislava, who also works as a rafting instruc- tor. “Sometimes there are visitors who ignore the rules, thinking that nothing can happen to them. But they soon realise how important it is when they are hit by the first wave.They not only see but also feel the strength of the water’s flow.” Onthe river “For waterskiing,water scooters, kneeboarding and other extreme rides we take tourists from Eurovea or several different places on the Danube river,” said Jaromír Minařík from Hot Chilli lode company,who owns several boats and other equipment he uses for water attractions in Bratislava. Speedboat rides are one of the most popular excur- sions. During the trip visitors can enjoy the view from the river of Devín Castle, the historical centre, bridges as well as quiet areas with houseboats which are among visitors the most popular even though the ride is slower there. “Dur- ing the trip we usually stop in Marina café where we can stay in touch with water,” Minařík said.Water attractions are available in Čilistov.The group usually pay for the speedboat rental and all other equipments well as special neo- prene clothing and life jackets. “Part of the group has a drink on the terrace of the restaurant while watching friends ,” Minárik added. Ina bubble Not far from Divoká Voda is another centre of extreme and unusual sports: Action Park, which offers the visitors also the chance to try “zorbing”– roughly the equivalent of standing in a giant bubble and running down a hill. “I got into the ball and was strapped in and was suddenly overwhelmed by fear,” said Veronika Bugajová, a 19-year- old student from Martin. “But I realised that there was no way to back down. The ball was pushed and rolled down the hill and I felt like I was in a washing machine… I came out with my feet sore, like after a long night partying. But I still had a smile on my face.” Escape games For brave spirits it may be interesting to play interactive “escape” games in which small teams must solve thematic tasks in order to get out. One of the most known games, mainly in Japan, China and the United States, is Izba č. 13 (Room Thirteen), situated in a crime scene with lots of brain-teasers and logical story lines. “One third of our customers are coming from abroad,” Lucia Pšenicová from Izba č. 13 said. In addition, visitors can enjoy themselves with similar escape games such as BrainTeaseLava with theme of the communist ŠtB secret service, funny EscapeRoom.sk rooms and Paniq Room’s Secrets of Da Vinci focused on finding sangreal. - Karina Miartanová - Zorbing gives you the feeling of being in a washing machine Photo:CourtesyofActionPark Photo: Courtesy of Action Park

70 bratislava: THE danube 1 Prístav (Port)  Fajnorovo nábrežie 2; map D 4  1.6 km (19 min)  2.1 km (3 min) u Nám. Ľ. Štúra v 11, 13, 14 Å +421 (0)2 5293-2226 www.twincityliner.com, www.lod.sk aMon-Sun 9:00-12:00, 12:30-16:00 Regular cruises by hydrofoil express boats (Bratislava – Vienna); Sightseeing Cruises: (Devín Castle, Bratislava Round Trip, Čunovo Dam, Danubiana Muelensteen Art Museum in Čunovo) €20 (regular cruises), from €6 (sightseeing cruises) åWC 49River Park New development with several restaurants directly on river bank  page: 29 51UFO restaurant  page: 30 56Eurovea New development with several restaurants directly on river bank  page: 30 D1Botel Marina www.botelmarina.sk  Nábrežie arm. gen. L. Svobodu; map B 4 Å +421 (0)2 5464-1805 D2Botel Gracia www.botelgracia.sk  Rázusovo nábrežie; map C 4 Å +421 (0)2 5443-2132 D3River’s Club www.riversclub.sk  Tyršovo nábrežie; map C 4 Å+421 (0)911 277-377 D4Au Cafe, www.au-cafe.sk  Tyršovo nábrežie; map C 4 Å +421 (0)2 6252-0355 D5Magio Beach  Tyršovo nábrežie; map C 4  2km (24 min) u Aupark v 80, 83, 84, 88, 91, 93, 94, 191a May-Sep å WC D6LOĎ - Divadlo v podpalubí (Theatre) Tyršovonábrežie;map C4®Å+421(0)903449-650 WCwww.lodteatro.sk “MoonaftermoonrollsthethunderingDanube, arigidcastlestandingonatallrockglowsupon thewater...” Crush Him by Samo Chalupka Every child in Slovakia has to memorise the words of one of the most famous national poems,and every tourist who has ever seen Bratislava knows the words to be a perfect description of Slovakia’s capital and its majestic river view. The Danube is not an ordinary river: its power has become a symbol for Slovakia and its influence stretches across Europe.It is the only river in the world to connect four capital cities: Vienna,Bratislava,Budapest and Belgrade,and it has formed the border between countries many times throughout history. The Danube was first used as a border in the 1st century,as part of the Limes Romanus protecting the Roman Empire from barbaric Germanic tribes. Nowadays it divides nation from nation: Romania from Bulgaria; Croatia from Serbia.It also creates a firm,natural border between Slovakia and Hungary, where the areas surrounding its banks have typically been fraught with nationalistic tensions.However,the river itself,in its strength and beauty,is more a source for harmony than tension. “I am a very introverted person, but when I sit near the Danube,I think of everything but me and wonder how peaceful it is when civilisation meets nature,” said LucyWright,22,a university student from Brighton,who has made a spot near the Danube her favourite place in the city. Civilisation has met the river a few times in the past,but what may be a whole lifetime for a human is but a slight moment for the Danube.Its deep waters hide countless secrets,where measurements are made on a different scale. For half a million years,the largest river island in Europe,Žitný Ostrov, has been entirely consumed within the river’s breadth,a direct legacy of the sea that once covered this area.There is also an invisible process happening all the time under the island,which stretches more than 80km from Bratislava to the area of Komárno. Faces of the Danube: both pleasing and scary A view of the city from the Old Bridge during flooding in June 2013 49 D1 51 D4 D2 D3 D5 D6 D7 56 1

bratislava: THE danube 71 D7Dunajský pivovar www.dunajskypivovar.sk  Tyršovo nábrežie; map D 4  +421 (0)948 418-934 98Divoká voda  page: 68-69 99Danubiana Meulensteen Art Museum  page: 39 Mark Twain Pub page:74Karloveskérameno 4.1km(6min)uBotanická v1,4,5,9,12,17,29,32 asummerseason14:00-24:00 RIVER CRUISES Hot Chilli Boats www.prenajom-lodi.sk  start of a ride based on agree- ment  +421 (0)910 312-399 from €110 per hour SpeedBoats.sk (www.speedboats.sk) +421 (0)903 610 716  start of a ride based on agree- ment from €180 (for team) Extremerides page: 68-69 Malý Dunaj Inland waterway www.maly-dunaj.skÅ +421(0)907 799-663from€8(renting priceforcanoe)€1(paddle) Bird watching www.watching.sk Å+421 (0)948 495-111depending on program Cycling  page: 96-97 According to Peter Malík, the head of the Department of Hydrogeology and Geothermal Energy at the State Geological Institute of Dionýz Štúr, “the island is sinking, because of the constant movement of the earth’s crust.Therefore it is losing stability and creates gaps,which the river fills up with gravel.This process is actually loud and if you decide to paddle in the river and stay quiet for a while,you will hear the stones rolling under the water”. The river carries 100 kg of stones per second under the island.There is 10 m of gravel under the centre of Bratislava, 150 m under Čunovo and up to 500 m in Gabčíkovo,which lies approximately 52 km from Bratislava. Gravel is a great storage place for water.About 8,000 litres per second get lost under the ground of Bratislava,which then flow under the island and appear on the surface again near the town of Kolárovo. The underground river runs for 98km. “If you dug deep enough anywhere on Žitný Ostrov, you would find drinking water,” Malík said. The island is the largest reservoir of water around the Danube: 25,000 litres of drinking water per second circulate underground, with only 4,500 litres ever used. But the Danube is not onlya salvation; it can also be a threat.Under the rule of MariaTheresa,in the 18th century,engineers changed the river’s course,building dams and embankments and attempting to push Europe’s largest inland river delta underground.In the past,the river started to divide in Hainburg, but there are onlya fewof the branches left today.It means that the pressure of 10,000 litres of water remains under the island, occasionallyrising dramatically to the surface. Many of the significant floods caused by the Danube can be attributed to its deep underwater life.The most famous came in 1850 when the whole of Bratislava was flooded by water and ice floes.An attentive visitor will no doubt notice the signs on some old city buildings, which indicate how high the water rose on the precise date of February 5, 1850.The most prominent can be found on the corner of the Primate’s Palace or on the Old Town Hall. The Danube not only provides drinking water to the people of Bratislava, but it also offers residents many leisure-time opportunities. Very popular are romantic rides on boats with special views of the city, bridges or even Devín Castle.The majority of people living near the river make good use of its beaches, which are, of course, not white sanded and massed with tourists, but intimate, secluded and enjoyable.These tranquil spots can be found along the river’s length, and its banks also provide cycling paths, great fishing opportunities and hiking routes. It is also possible to explore the river or one of its branches (the most popular is Malý Dunaj) either in small kayaks or canoes. Less active visitors may also appreciate the possibilities to hop on a bigger boat and head off for Vienna. You can see the Slovak and Austrian capitals while never leaving the beautiful surrounds of the Danube itself.  - Timea Becková - The Danube can be also dangerous – the line shows how high its waters rose in Bratislava on Feb 5, 1850 Paddling down the Malý Dunaj Danubiana is located on a man-made peninsula on the Danube Photo: Courtesy of Danubiana

72 bratislava: PARKS, GARDENS AND LAKES Gardens: 65Prezidentská (Grasalkovičova) záhrada  Štefánikova/Banskobystrická; map C 2  1 km (12 min) u Hodžovo námestie v 32, 83, 84, 93, 147, 184, 203, 206, 207, 208, 212 aOct-Mar:Mon-Sun 10:00-19:00;Apr-May:Mon-Sun 10:00-20:00;Jun-Sep:Mon-Sun 8:00-22:00free 71Medická záhrada  Ul. 29. augusta/Špitálska; map D, E 2  1.2 km (14 min)  2.1 km (5 min) u Mariánska v 4, 9 a Apr-Sep 7:00-21:00, Oct-Mar 10:00-18:00free 82Botanical Garden  Botanická 9 (near Student dormitory Družba); map F 4  4.1 km (6 min) u Botanická záhrada v 4, 5, 6, 9, 28, 29, 32 Å +421 (0)2 6542-1311 a Apr-Oct 9:00-17:30 €3 åWC Parks: 53Sad Janka Kráľa  Viedenská cesta/Einsteinova; map C 4  1.4 km (17 min) 3.5 km (4 min) u Sad Janka Kráľa v 82 a non-stopfreeå 79Horský park  Bohúňova/Búdková cesta map A,B 1  2.4 km (34 min)  2.6 km (5 min) u Horský park v 207 a non-stopfreeå 84Železná studienka  page: 37 Bratislava has suffered at the hands of ruthless investors and developers over the years - not least the communist government - who not only changed the face of the city by modifying and constructing buildings,but also ruined playgrounds and removed greenery.It is remarkable,therefore,that so many of Bratislava’s parks and woods have been preserved to this day.Some visitors are still suprised that the city has also a cablecar which operates between Koliba and Železná Studienka areas. There are still numerous choices of whether to spend free time in an oasis of peace and quiet situated in city centre or completely surrounded by the forests,lakes and streams outside the metropolis.According to official city sources,4,000 hectares of the city’s total area is green.And if that is still not enough,there’s always the white-water canal too. Gardens Inside the city centre,only about 500m from Kamenné Square,is the well-kept Medická záhrada (garden),a popular place among young Bratislavans,who flock there when the sun shines.Some just sit on benches or on the ground; others play football,badminton or frisbee.The other main garden in the city centre is Prezidentská záhrada (garden), a park just behind the Grassalkovich Palace,home of Slovakia’s president. The trees lining the eastern fence were all planted by foreign politicians during their stays in Bratislava.The garden features benches,statues and a fountain, while the lawns can be used for sports (if the keeper is in a good mood). The Botanical Garden of Comenius University provides a similar refuge from hurried city life.Visitors can admire a huge variety of plant species in outside landscapes,as well as in greenhouses. The garden used to be primarily a research centre for Comenius University, but in the course of time it has become a park to be enjoyed by the general public too. Parks The Sad Janka Kráľa,established in 1774-76 as one of the first public parks in central Europe,is located just across the Danube from Bratislava’s historical centre.Manyvisitors of the nearby Aupark Shopping Centre stop to relax there.One interesting attraction is the surviving part of a gothic tower.It was moved here from the Franciscan Church, located in the historical centre,which was partly destroyed by an earthquake in 1897.The park runs all the way to a river bank area calledTyršovo nábrežie where several bars and restaurants are located Let’s take a break in the city Having fun in the Prezidentská záhrada (garden) Bratislava offers several green places

bratislava: PARKS, GARDENS AND LAKES 73 85TV Tower Kamzík  page: 38 Lakes and swimming: 89Kuchajda  Vajnorská/Tomášikova; map F 4 5.8 km (12 min) u Polus City Center v 2, 4, 50, 51, 98a Apr 7:30-21:30; May-Sep 6:00-22:30; Oct-Mar 7:00-20:30free å 90Zlaté Piesky (lake)  page: 38 95Veľký Draždiak (lake)  Tematínska/Antolská; map F 4 7.3 km (12 min) u Šintavská v 68, 83, 92, 94, 95, 99, 192 a non-stopfreeå The Sad Janka Kráľa was the first public park in central Europe A cableway connects TV Tower Kamzík with the lower-down former hotel, Snežienka in Železná Studienka area Horský park holds an open-air gallery Zlaté Piesky (lake) offers bathing, water-skiing and other water attractions including a couple that are actually on boats. Between May and September,the popular Magio Beach offers fun, playgrounds and more bars. An even more peaceful option is Horský park, a piece of unspoilt nature on a hill that separates the Old Town from the western districts. Horský Park, which can be translated as “Mountain Park”, has its very own atmosphere. Despite its proximity to the city,visitors can breathe clean air, get lost in the forest or relax on numerous wooden benches that are spread all over the area.There is an open-air gallery and a cosy café beside the main entrance, which are popular meeting places. The park is an approximate 30-minute walk along Hlboká Street (map B, C 1) from the city centre, close to the Slavín memorial. On the way down, it is possible to explore the streets around Slavín,which are among the most prestigious addresses in the city. “I like that there are forests right around the city and it is really easy to get up in to the woods and get away from the city life here,” said Paul Mc- Cullough, an American who moved to Bratislava more than 20 years ago. Koliba is an extremely popular area,with several snack bars sat atop a slope used for bobsleigh in summer and skiing in winter.The area is dominated by the highest structure in Bratislava, the TVTower,with an observation deck and restaurant. Paths and trails for hiking and biking lead all over the area,while a cableway connects upper Koliba with the lower-down former hotel, Snežienka in Železná Studienka area. The western passage to the marvel- lous area of the city’s forests is called Železná Studienka. Passing under the red steel railway bridge,visitors are greeted by a big playground, including fields for football,volleyball, basketball, pétanque and table tennis.There is also an old amphitheatre with a café and toilets, offering another place to sit and enjoy the beautiful scenery. However, it would be pity not to go further into the forest.The lakes and zigzagging pathways with restaurants in recon- structed old mills are just waiting to be discovered.The trails lead deeper into the forest, some connecting to nearby Koliba. Popular is also the 4.5-hour hike to the ruins of the castle Pajštún. Lakes and swimming Slovakia may be a landlocked country, but its residents have learned to make the most of its plentiful lakes, even in the heart of the city. Bratislava’s biggest lake is Zlaté Piesky, near to the airport,which offers the chance to water-ski and/or bathe naked at an unofficial nudists’ beach on the eastern shore. (There is a fee for entry to the lake.) The closest lake to the city centre is Kuchajda, near to the Polus City Centre,which also offers various sporting activities and water bikes. Other options for swimmers include Veľký Draždiak in Petržalka, Vajnorské jazero in Vajnory and Rusovské jazero in Rusovce.There are also numerous wellness centres and swimming pools open to the public, including Hotel Nivy (www.hotelnivy. sk), Golem Club and a wellness centre in the Central Shopping Centre (www. central.sk/en). - Ivan Belko - 53 95 79 82 65 71 89 90 84 85

74 bratislava: THE UNUSUAL 74YMCA  Karpatská 2; map D 1  1.8 km (22 min) 2.4 km (6 min) u Karpatská v 34, 61, 64, 74, 201, 204, 209, 210 www.majestic.sk 80aSandberg  page: 37 95Veľký Draždiak (lake)  Tematínska 6 km (9 min) u Strečnianska v 68, 83, 92, 94, 95, 192   Mark Twain Club  Botanická 9 (near Student dormitory Družba) 4.1 km (6 min) u Botanická záhrada v 4, 5, 6, 9, 28, 29, 32 Marketplace on Žilinská Street  Žilinská; map D 1  1.6 km (19 min) 2 km (5 min) u Karpatská v 34, 61, 64, 74, 201, 204, 209, 210 a Mon-Sat 7:00-12:00 Palisády  Palisády/Kozia/Panenská/ Zochova; map C,B 2; B 3  0.9 km (5 min) å Cemetery on Šulekova Street (Cintorín Kozia brána)  Šulekova 1; map B 2  1.3 km (8 min) u Kozia v 147, 203, 208a Oct-Feb 7:00-17:00; Mar-Sep 7:00-20:00 Kochova záhrada  Partizánska 27; map A 2; A 3  1.3 km (20 min) 1.4 km (4 min) u Partizánska v 203, 207a exterior views only Statue of a UFO  Bieloruská, Medzijarky  12 km (15 min) u Stavbárska v 78, 87, 178 How about you slow down and take a look at Bratislava on a more authentic level? You can eat fried fish at sunset on the Danube or swim in a lake in the middle of Petržalka’s tower blocks.You can hang out with Bratislava’s answer to Charles Bukowski,or join the aliens that once landed in the city.You may think you have seen all that this place has to offer,but there is much,much more than meets the eye. Bratislava is full of strange little wonders not listed in the tourist guidebooks.Some of them are hard to find,even for locals,but getting lost in Bratislava can be one of the most rewarding things to do.And with a few special recommendations,even vegetar- ians and those on a gluten-free diet can find places to feast in the city. Some may call this a guide to “alternative Bratislava”,but for others, this is the page that will keep them sane and alive. Closetothe river Bratislavans love rivers and one of the best places you can go to get close enough to touch the Danube is the Mark Twain Club,a charming old anchored boat,like the one Huckleberry Finn mig- ht sail down the Mississippi,which was converted into a pub almost 19 years ago. The MarkTwain is situated in a small bay near the Canoe Club (Kanoi- stický Klub Karlova Ves) and provides not only a magical view,but also occasional guitar players picking out the blues as well a barbeque on which you can cook delicacies of your choice.It is well off the beaten track,but as rowers drift by,to the soundtrack of singing birds,it is well worth the trouble to seek it out.“It’s a place out of time,” said Barbara Lamoot, a 41-year-old artist.There is a slightly dif- ferent water experience to be next to the shipyard of Lodenica Vlčie hrdlo,where there is a seafood canteen in the quiet, industrial bay,surrounded by retired houseboats and old ferries.Although it may sound unap- pealing,it is a remarkably popular and unusual place to take a deep breath after a hard working day. When ordering food in the canteen, you will be given a number,which will be called by microphone when the food is ready. It is the perfect motivation to learn to count in Slovak,or else you might end up hungry.(To find this place, it’s not the time to be brave: take a taxi.) Another perfect spot from which to take a moment to admire the surround- ings is at Sandberg (literally a sandy hill), at the end of Slovinec Street in Devínska Nová Ves.Years ago,this area,which is now close to the Morava River and the border withAustria,was all under water: fossils have been found here dating from 14 million years ago,as well as fragments of whale bone.Some parts of the area are highly protected and entry is restricted, but it is a charming place surrounded by irises and colourful birds reminiscent of parrots. Alternative Bratislava Tourist Information Centre offers Secret door to Bratislava guide, with tips for hidden places in the capital Mark Twain Club

bratislava: THE UNUSUAL 75 Fresh Market  Rožňavská 1A 7 km (13 min) www.freshmarket.sk aMon-Fri 7:00–19:00, Sat 7:00–14:00, Sun: closed u Trnavská, ŽST Nové Mesto or Haburská Kop Saloon Pub  Kollárovo námestie; map D 2 Bistro Vanesa Pub  Nedbalova; map C 3 (c 4) Prašná bašta restaurant  Zámočnícka 11; map C 3 (c 1) Å +421 (0)2 5443-4957 www.prasnabasta.sk Verne restaurant  Hviezdoslavovo námestie 18 map C 4 Å +421 (0)2 5443-0514 VEGETARIAN Beer Palace  Gorkého 5; map C 3 (c 4) www.beerpalace.sk Govinda  Obchodná 30; map C 3 (c 2) www.govinda.sk City Vegetarian  Obchodná 58; map C 3 (c 2) Å +421 (0)2 5273-1381 Veg Life  Mickiewiczova 18; map D 2 www.veglife.sk Veggie  Obchodná 66; map C 3 (c 2) www.veggie.sk RAW FOOD Bemba  OD Slimák, Hálkova 1  www.restauraciabemba.sk GLUTEN FREE Sole Mio  Grösslingova 31; map D 3 www.solemiopizza.sk Pizza Mizza  Tobrucká 5; map D 4 www.pizzamizza.sk Funki Punki  Klariská 12; map C 3 (c 3) Å +421 (0)2 2102-8881 Wandering aroundthe city Itisslightlymoreurbanintheareaof Palisády.Youarefreeheretogetlostalong thestreets,discoveringitsromantic oldvillasandmorefunctionalmodern buildings.Thereisalsoanoldcemeteryon ŠulekovaStreetandthefamousKochova záhrada(garden),whichhowevercanbe admiredonlythroughafence.Ifyouthen crosstheSNPBridgeonfoot,youwillbe inthemiddleofPetržalka,thebiggest housingprojectincentralEuropeand hardlyaplacerenownedforitstourism appeal.ButyoucanswimhereinDraždiak lakeandknowthatyourexperiencesfrom avisittoBratislavaareconsiderablymore thantypical. If,through all this,you still feel a little out of place,then take a moment to hang out with fellow alien beings: there is a statue of a UFO in the middle of Bieloruská Street in Medzijarky.Its some- what run-down condition suggests what might happen to any poor aliens landing on this predatory planet. Food foraliens Even aliens have to eat sometimes, however,and vegetarians or gluten- -free eaters,behold! It is possible for you to find suitable food in Bratislava. The chef at the Beer Palace on Gorkého Street comes from the famous vegetarian restaurant Vegetka,the only Bratislava restaurant at which people were willing to queue for half an hour just to get lunch.There are two other vegetarian options on Obchodná Street–Govinda and CityVegetarian restaurant–plus Veg Life on nearby Mickiewicova Street. Various gluten-free choices can be also found in the pizza restaurants Sole Mio and Pizza Mizza and,in case of emer- gency,at fast food outlets in Mariánska Street.You can also get a buckwheat pancake at Funki Punki pancake house. You can also find a tasty and affordable dinner on the terrace of Prašná bašta and at Verne restaurant,although it’s not necessarily gluten free.If you are luckyyou can join a seasonal vegan feast on Nám.Slobody (square),where people come and share their homemade vegan food. Alternatively,Fresh Market is an interesting option.On two storeys,it houses gastronomic premises (including vegetarian ones),cafés,shops,a chil- dren’s corner and stalls with local fresh foodstuff,flowers,meat and baked goods. Every Saturday morning you can buy also fresh vegetables from local farmers at the marketplace on Žilinská. There is also the seasonal open-air market Dobrý trh (Good Fair) in Panenská Street or Jakubovo námestie,which offers a mixture of bio food,designer products, antiques and a street art programme. Surprising places Afternightfalls,Bratislavacomesaliveand fewplacesofferasmuchdiversityasthe oldYMCAbuildingonthecornerofŠan- cováandKarpatskáStreets.Accordingto PeterWilfling,34,anadvocacyandhuman rightslawyer:“Itcontainssixpubsand clubsmixingtogetherpunks,metallers, hipstersandlostsouls…ItisBratislava, BoulevardMontparnasseandCamden Townallinone.” Similar brave and lonesome hearts– who may find themselves more at home with Charles Bukowski than in posh, soulless bars–can find in Bratislava the kind of retro,low-cost pubs that feel as though theywill collapse when their last regular leaves for the night. According to Wilfling,the Kop saloon pub,on the corner of Kollárovo námestie and Živnostenská street,is: “a small bizzare place with walls covered by old musical instruments,paintings of naked lesbian vampires,communistic icons, the armour of Roman legionnaires and idyllic countryside drawings.” Thereisalsoananatomicallyaccurate statueofanakedfemaletorso,leaving littletotheimagination,andairisthick withcloudsofsmokefromtheoldbarflies, allbehindasignreading“Módnysalón”, or“fashionsalon”onthefrontwall. MaybealsotryBistroVanesa,whichalso hostssmallexhibitionsandoccasional improvisedmusicalrecitals,allbeneathan extraordinaryold-fashionedceiling. “For me its a piece of old Bratislava,” said Hela Boldišová,26,a coordinator of a dance group,of Bistro Vanesa.“It is an authentic pub with good quality beer,for a good price,in the centre of the town with a pleasantly severe barmaid and underrated artists as guests.” - Sandra Tordová - The market place at Žilinská Street DraždiakinPetržalkaoffersoneoftheunusualbathingopportunities

76 bratislava: dining F0Liviano  Kutlíkova 17 Å +421 (0)2 6828-6688 www.liviano.sk F1Fou Zoo  Ševčenkova 34 Å +421 (0)901 747-474 www.fouzoo.sk F2Leberfinger  Viedenská cesta 257; map C 4 Å +421 (0)2 6231-7590 www.leberfinger.sk F3UFO watch.taste.groove  Most SNP; map B 4 Å +421 (0)2 6252-0300 www.u-f-o.sk F4Savoy Restaurant  Hviezdoslavovo námestie 3 (Hotel Carlton); map C 4  +421 (0)2 5939-0400 www.savoyrestaurant.sk F5Verne  Hviezdoslavovo námestie 18; map C 4 Å +421 (0)2 5443-0514 F6Bistro Soho  Dunajská 20; map D 3  +421 (0) 948 611-449 www.bistrosoho.sk F7Bratislava Flag Ship  Námestie SNP 8; map C 3 (c 2) Å +421 (0)917 927-673 www.bratislavskarestauracia.sk F8Slovak Pub  Obchodná 62; map D 2 Å +421 (0)2 5292-6367 www.slovakpub.sk F9Zelený Rodrigéz  Zámocká 36; map B 3  +421 (0)905 218-569 F10Restaurant of the Albrecht Hotel  Mudroňova 82; map A 2 Å +421 (0)902 333-888 www.albrechtrestaurant.com More information about restaurants in Bratislava: N page: 104 Thewide andvaried tastes of Bratislava Although there are some varieties of wine that can be called typical to Bratislava, the same cannot necessarily be said about the city’s cuisine. But this is not cause for regret. Instead, because of Bratislava’s location close to borders and along significant ancient trade routes, food in the region displays influences from across Hungary, the Czech Republic and Austria as well as more remote corners of the world.This remains true in modern times, when Bratislava has not escaped globalisation. Nowadays all the major fast food chains can be found here, as well as countless Italian, Greek, Chinese and Indian restaurants, and some high- end, swanky eateries too. The fierce competition from global brands has also prompted a reaction among local foodies keen to ensure Slovak recipes continue to be cooked in the city.There are now a number of history books about local cuisine by a writer named Vladimír Tomčík, plus cook books containing historical recipes, including a popular series by Silvia Pilková. Similarly a few restaurants in Bratislava have elevated traditional, local cooking to top-end restaurant standard.Try Leberfinger on the Petržalka bank of the Danube, for instance,which dates from the second half of the 18th century. Savoy Restaurant, in Carlton hotel in the city centre, is another favourite. It focuses on modern gastronomy, but draws an influence from Slovak and central-European cuisine.There are also a reliable smattering of cheaper restaurants, popular with locals, that offer a vibrant atmosphere and good food.Try Verne, opposite the US Embassy, or the Slovak Pub, or Bratislava Flag Ship. Fancy restaurants As the richest city in Slovakia, it is only to be expected that Bratislava offers a number of fancy restaurants that regularly top national lists for both cuisine and service, compiled by the economic weekly Trend.The restaurant at the top of the SNP Bridge over the Danube – UFO watch.taste. groove, to give it its full (but very infrequently used) name – is certainly the restaurant with the most attractive location in the city, and it also offers acclaimed cuisine to complement its spectacular 360° views over Bratislava. However, Petržalka’s Fou Zoo, which also rides high in the lists and combines Asian and European cuisine, is proof that location is not everything. Likewise Liviano, a restaurant sitting in the high-rise office building in Petržalka, was recently named among the 101 best restaurants in Europe. Bistro Soho, Zelený Rodrigez or Prašná Bašta have some of the best rankings on TripAdvisor.The restaurant of the Albrecht Hotel near Slavín is also popular, especially now that its chef Jaroslav Židek has become famous thanks to his TV show Áno, šéfe!, the Slovak version of Gordon Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares. F0 F1 F2 F3 F4 F5 F6 F9 F7 F8 F10 The restaurant UFO watch.taste.groove has one of the most attractive locations in the city, with a 360 degree view over Bratislava

bratislava: dining 77 Bratislava traditional pastry www.fantastico.biz F. X. Messerschmidt Café N pg: 78 Zeppelin Café N page: 79 FOOD EVENTS Winter Food Festival Bratislava (Jan), www.zimnyfestivaljedla.sk Days of asparagus (May) Slovak Food Festival at Bratislava Castle (May) www.slovakfoodfestival.sk Gurmán Fest Bratislava (Jun), www.gurmanfestbratislava.sk Goose feast in Slovenský Grob (All year but restaurants hold an open- door event in August or September) Fyzulnačka, the competition in cooking of the bean soup in Pezinok, (Aug-Sep), www.pezinok.sk Vegan festival Bratislava (Sep), www.veganskehody.sk Dni zelá (The Days of Cabbage) in Stupava, (the first October weekend), www.stupava.sk SIX USEFUL TIPS FOR RESTAURANTS 1. When ordering drinks, remember that Slovaks count beginning with the thumb (1), then the thumb and index finger (2), and so on. If you raise your index finger to signify one beer, you may end up with a confused waiter bringing two. 2. ‘Na zdravie’ is equivalent to the English ‘cheers’, literally meaning ‘to health’. Before the first round, you are expected to clink glasses (štrngnúť) – at which point remember to make eye contact with your fellow clinker, and don’t cross the path of two other clinkers. After the first round, it’s no longer necessary to štrngnúť. 3. On weekdays between about 11:00 and 14:00 many restaurants offer a daily menu (denné menu) with two or three alternative dishes (soup and main course). The price is usually between €4 and €5. 4. If you’re a vegetarian be careful what you order. Even apparently innocuous dishes like cabbage soup tend to come with chunks of pork sausage bobbing around in them. 5. It’s not always service with a smile. Don’t take offence if your waiter or waitress fails to smile; it’s not personal. Customer service in many places in Slovakia hasn’t reached the levels it has in top tourist destinations. 6. There is no strict rule about tipping in Slovakia. Some Slovaks only round up the bill; others calculate tips as 10 percent of the total. Pivnica u Zlatej Husi  Pezinská 2, Slovenský Grob Å +421 (0)905 525-417 www.zlatahus.sk Bratislava pastry In the inter-war period,Bratislava used to have a strong café tradition, which it has been gradually re- gaining in the post-communist era. The local speciality is Bratislavský rožok,a fine,crescent-shaped pastrywith filling made from poppyseed or walnuts,which is the perfect accompaniment to a cup of coffee.After a five-year process and negotiations with Hungary and Austria (who were also part of the Habsburg empire when Bratislavský rožok was first baked) it earned its “traditional speciality guaranteed” (TSG) seal from the EU in 2012. Pastries are available for example in Zepellin or F.X.Messerschmidt cafés. Company FantastiCo is one of the best known producers.Austria and Hungary have their own variations of the pastry: the Pressburger Kipfel and Pozsonyi kifli. Goose fests Back in the dayswhen Bratislava was known as Pressburg,residents of the citywould often find fish from the Danube on their tables.But the tradition has sadlynot survived. Rejoice,then,for SlovenskýGrob,a smallvillage just outside Bratislava, inwhich a long tradition for roast goose has endured andwhichwas not interrupted even bythe communist regime.During autumn goose is an integral part of the seasonal menu. Roast goose or husacina is served with lokše (potato pancakes coveredwith goose fat),and oftenwith goose liver as an entrée.The tradition of goose roasting in SlovenskýGrob dates back more than 100years and nowadays there are several venues scattered in the tinyvillage. Originallyroast goose could be eaten onlyduring the traditional season lasting from September until December,but now husacina can be enjoyed throughout the wholeyear – assumingyou can get a table. These are mostlysmall familybusinesses with limited space offering a cosy,casual and rustic atmosphere.(One of the exceptions is the larger and better known Pivnica u Zlatej Husi.) Gourmet festivals During the summer,Bratislava and the surrounding areas host various food festivals,which are often worth exploring for the combination of both cuisine and culture.For instance,the zabíjačka festival (which translated literally means the “pig killing”) offers some good traditional specialties. Meanwhile,the best restaurants in the region will often attend the gourmet festival in Medická Záhrada or the Slovak Food Festival in Bratislava Castle. The Cabbage Festival (Dni zelá), which is held during the first weekend in October in Stupava only 19 kilometres from Bratislava,is becoming more popular.Even though cabbage is the main theme there is a wide selection of folk and cultural events linked to this festival. In the autumn,the wine-making districts of Bratislava hold “vinobranie”, the name given to festivities marking the end of the grape harvest.These offer an excellent opportunity to taste burčiak, fermented grape juice,a specialty served only in Slovakia,the Czech Republic and Austria. - Jana Liptáková - Bratislava hosts numerous food festivals throughout the year The goose roasting tradition in Slovenský Grob dates back more than 100 years. Today numerous venues cook and sell the local specialty

78 bratislava: cafés Cafés in the city centre Axioma  Lazaretská 10; map D 3 Å +421 (0)2 5249-9925 Dobre&Dobré  Nedbalova 13; map C 3 (c 4)  +421 (0)905 136-110 www.facebook.com/cafedobre Foxford (www.foxford.sk)  Obchodná 26; map C 3 (c 2)  +421 (0)905 914-739 F. X. Messerschmidt Café  Nám. SNP 8; map C3 (c 2)  +421 (0)905 237-054 www.messerschmidt.sk Greentree (www.greentreecaffe.sk)  Ventúrska 20; map C 3 (c 3)  Štúrova 4; map D 3  Obchodná 29; map C 3 (c 2) Kaffee Mayer www.kaffeemayer.sk  Hlavné námestie 4; map C 3 (c 4) Å +421 (0)2 5441-1741 La Putika (www.laputika.sk)  Klobučnícka 4; map C 3 (c 4) Å +421 (0)911 610-743  Panská 12; map C 3 (c 3) Å +421 (0)901 709-079 Obývačka (www.obyvacka.net)  Dunajská 54; map D 3 Å +421 (0)948 255-924 A coffee revolution takes hold The function suite of the Hotel Sheraton seemed to be filled with nothing but coffee.Its smell filled the air and it was the subject of every conversation among each of the groups of people,who were holding samples named like “crèma passion” in cardboard,“to-go” cups. This was the first “Coffee Fest” in Bratislava,where organisers had expected a small turnout of coffee afficionados but were instead inundated by hundreds of coffee fans, who came in their droves to enjoy professionally-prepared espresso, cappuccino or latte,and to prove that the global passion for the black stuff has made it to Slovakia. “Slovaks have cared for the coffee quality much more since they started to travel all around the world,” said Slovakia’s leading coffee expert,Michal Šturc. They also enjoy it in great quantity, at least if Coffee Fest was anything to go by. The coffee phenomenon in Bratislava is best represented by the increasing number of coffee shops opening up across the city.But it is not only a modern thing as the city has a long,coffee-centred tradition. By 1918,Bratislava was considered by many to resemble a suburb of Vienna, from where it had acquired a trend for cosy coffee-houses.According to Imrich Sečanský’s book Memories and Professions of a Doctor,after the First World War,coffee houses became the kind of place where business contracts were signed,chess was played,artists and journalists met to gossip and exchange ideas.They moulded the soul of the city. Only the communists could end the thriving sub-culture,and their fears of the intellectual classes resulted in the forced closure of all the famous coffee houses.Sečanský feared that the tradition would never return,but thanks to the opening of Europe’s borders, coffee started making a comeback in Bratislava. To help homeless people get back from the street to normal life is the main goal of the project of the café Dobre&Dobré, which resides in the Old Market Hall Some of Bratislava’s cafés can also be found inside the bookshops

bratislava: cafés 79 Cafés in the city centre Štúr Café (www.sturcafe.sk)  Obchodná 17; map C 3 (c 2)  +421 (0)919 271-625  Štúrova 8; map D 3  +421 (0)919 271-854  Štefanovičova 6; map C 1  +421 (0)919 271-848 Urban House  Laurinská 14; map C 3 (c 4)  +421 (0)904 001-021 www.urbanhouse.sk Zeppelin cafe  Sedlárska 10; map C 3 (c 3)  +421 (0)911 110-287 www.zeppelincafe.sk BEST ICE CREAM Koun  Panská 13; www.koun.sk Luculus  Hviezdoslavovo námestie 25 café café Cremeria Milano  Eurovea Galleria, Pribinova 8 www.cafecafe-cremeriamilano.sk Whereto go These days,the city’s coffee shops offer significantly more than just the core product: they sell cakes,confectionery and alcoholic drinks,and are meeting places for students,tourists and office workers. One such place is Štúr Café,named after 19th-century scholar Ľudovít Štúr.They offer homemade cakes, sandwiches and lemonades.The characteristic feature of the café is that it uses the Slovak language in the form it was used during Štúr’s life. To help homeless people get back from the street to normal life is the main goal of the project of the café Dobre&Dobré,which resides in the Old Market Hall. Some of Bratislava’s cafés can also be found inside the bookshops.One such place is Foxford located in the Martinus store on Obchodná Street.The concept comes from abroad where various big as well as small networks of shops work in this way.While there the shop and café are more divided from one another, Martinus tried to unite them into one common space,said its e-shop manager Martin Štrba. Also the Gorila.sk bookshop joined forces with the Urban Space network and opened a mutual space in downtown Bratislava.The idea came from founder of the shop Ján Budaj, and was inspired by similar concepts in NewYork or London,Ján Laš of Beyond Media companywhich runs Gorila.sk said.Another small café can be found on Kozia street,in the premises ofArtforum bookstore.Axioma café offers along with coffee,beer and wine,used books,which decorate the walls and give the place an intellectual atmosphere. La Putika is a similar chain of coffee shops,but with a slightly different character,drawing inspiration from French-style bistros. According to the supervisor Gabika Horná,customers appreciate that the coffee shop “has soul”. The owners Patrik Holek and Dušan Novota filled their shops with stylish vintage furniture and decorations connected with coffee from the whole world. “I like the whole atmosphere at La Putika,” said a customer named Peter. “You don’t have to be ashamed to get a beer or wine even though it’s not a pub.” Indeed,La Putika is renowned for its selection of Belgian beers and wines from Slovakia and Chile.Its chic interior also appeals to students. “I meet my schoolmates and friends from drama groups here,” said Dominika,a student at Comenius University.“When people visit Bratislava and have no idea where to go, I definitely take them to Putika.” Coffee beans For some,the coffee itself is of secondary importance,but for the real connoisseurs,it is all that matters. “Coffee houses are primarily about coffee,” said Šturc.“And quality coffee means 100 percentArabica espresso of high-grade,professionally roasted and prepared.” Slovak taste-buds are gradually being refined after years of enforced abstinence from the highest quality flavours.During the communist period, Slovak people had no idea of the differences between types of coffee and got used to drinking a strong, darkTurkish-style coffee because it was the only one available in the Eastern Bloc. According to Coffee Culture Academy,there are two main species of coffee beans: Robusta andArabica.But most of Bratislava’s coffee shops offer blend coffee,which is a mixture of both. Štúr also offers their own fairtrade coffee called “1843”,after the year in which Štúr first codified the language.Meanwhile La Putika serves Mauro coffee or Bristot. - Kristína Hamárová - La Putika drew inspiration from French style bistros and visitors appreciate its soulful appearance

80 bratislava: wine BRATISLAVA 14Apponyi’s Palace (Museum of Viticulture + wine tasting) N page: 16 www.nsvsr.sk a booking required from €4.99 Hotel Matyšák – wine restaurant  Pražská 15, Bratislava www.hotelmatysak.sk Villa Vino Rača www.villavinoraca.sk  Andreja Hlinku 2, Bratislava Å +421 (0)902 896-709 aMon-Thu 9:30-17:00 Fri 9:30- 18:00 Sat 9:00-12:00 Vinohradníctvo a vinárstvo Miloš Máťuš (www.vinomatus.sk)  Detvianska 33, Bratislava Å +421 (0)905 202-818 abooking required R17The Small Carpathian Wine Route (MVC) N page: 90 R21Pezinok N page: 90  21 km (27 min) The Small Carpathian Museum  M. R. Štefánika 4, Pezinok Å +421 (0)33 641-3347 G www.muzeumpezinok.sk a Apr- Oct Tue-Fri 9:00-12:00, 13:00-17:00 Sat 10:00-17:00 Sun 14:00-17:00; wine tasting: booking in advance required from €9 (including wine tasting) e WC R22Šenkvice  28 km (35 min) Karpatská Perla Šenkvice www.karpatskaperla.sk  Nádražná 57, Šenkvice Å +421 (0)33 649-6855 aTue-Fri 9:00-19:00 R25Modra N page: 90  27 km (34 min) Villa Modur Modra www.villamodur.sk  Kalinčiakova 35, Modra Å +421 (0)948 252-264 booking required R27Doľany  54 km (49 min) JM vinárstvo Doľany www.jmvinar.sk  Vinárstvo 445, Doľany Å +421 (0)903 484-030aMon-Fri 8:00-17:00 Sat 9:00-13:00 Drowning in wine since the 7th century BC There’s a certain ironyin the fact that Slovakia is considered among the so- called “new”wine-producing countries of theworld.Winemaking in these parts has a proven historydating from the 6th–7th centuryBC.Yet the comparatively lowawareness of Slovakwines abroad is largelyowing to patterns of its consumption: almost none makes it beyond the keenwine-drinkers of Slovakia itself.It means that ifyouwant to try Slovakwine – andyou should –you’ll need to come here to do so. The reputation of Slovak wines has improved markedly in recentyears,as indicated byresults in recent international competitions.Slovakwineswon 12 gold and 27 silver medals at the Viniales Internationales Paris 2015 competition.Slovakia also boosted its image as awine- producing countryin mid-May 2013when it hosted the 20th Concours Mondial de Bruxelles (CMB) 2013,a prestigious internationalwine competition. Thatyear itwon three grand gold, 19 gold and 38 silver medals.In the 2015 event itwon 6 gold and 13 silver medals. According to the CMB president Baudouin Havaux,the tasters discovered a region “which is maybe less known but has [a lot] to offer”. He added as he introduced the competition: “I’mveryhappythat I’m here,because this is not an accident: one of the goals of the Concours Mondial de Bruxelles is towatch the development of thewine market aswell as new trends,and it is obvious that in central Europe,and especiallyin Slovakia,this development isveryinteresting.” Havaux lists Slovakia alongside places like Chile,New Zealand and South Africa as the emerging nations,separate from countries with a tradition of wine production such as Italy,Spain and France. “I think that the time for a newwave, whichwill balance these two tendencies between traditional countries and the so-called newcountries,has arrived,” said Havaux.“We see this development also in central Europe.And Slovakia is a notable example of this development,where the qualityofwine is reallyon a high level and keeps rising.” Slovakia produces about 340,000 hectolitres (hl) ofwine (i.e.34 million litres),ofwhich only100,000 hl is exported.Whitewines make up 75 percent of local production. The totalwine consumption in Slovakia is about 650,000 hl,so Slovakia imports about 400,000 hl annually. “We here in Slovakia cannot afford to produce cheap,low- qualitywines,” said Jaroslava Kaňúchová,executive director of the Grape andWine Producers of Slovakia (ZVHV). “In this [area],bulk producers beat us. Kaňúchová highlights the importance of new varieties among Slovakwine producers,which are specificallycultivated to exploit the full potential of Slovakia’s climate and soil.The result is a selection ofwines that cannot be made anywhere else. “You can taste Chardonnayalmost everywhere in theworld,but the Devín, Dunaj,and Míliavarietiesyou can taste onlyhere in Slovakia,” said Kaňúchová. “This is howwe can establish ourselves in theworld.Devín and Dunaj arewines that are also harvesting success inworld competitions.” White Devín and blue Dunaj are the most popular Slovak grapevarieties among Slovakwinegrowers. “These twovarieties occur in the portfolio of almost everySlovak winemaker,” Ľudmila Miškovičová from the Slovak National Collection ofWine toldThe Slovak Spectator.She estimates that in total Slovak grapevarieties make up about 3 percent of the area cultivated asvineyards in Slovakia,but that the Slovak wine producers say that they cannot afford to produce cheap and low quality wines here, keeping standards high

bratislava: wine 81 EVENTS January: Day of Svätý Jur cellars Wine tasting for a fee www.terroir.sk/sjvs February: Pezinok wine cellars Wine producers in Pezinok open their cellars for public; www.pvp.sk April: Vitis Aurera in Modra International exhibition of wines and wine tasting; www.vincur.sk Exhibition of wines in Svätý Jur and Rhine Riesling competition Wine tasting for visitors www.terroir.sk/sjvs Day of Modra cellars Winemakers in Modra open their doors for wine tasting for a fee www.vinovino.sk Festival of Slovak wines in Brati- slava; Tasting of the most popular Slovak wines www.vinovino.sk Wine Markets in Pezinok Wine tasting and competition of wine producers; www.zpvv.sk May/June: Festival of Frankovka in Bratislava Wine tasting of Blaufränkisch or Frankovka modrá traditional variety of wine in Bratislava region; www.visitbratislava.com May, November: Day of open cellars; Winemakers in the Small Carpathian region open their doors several times a year for a day and visitors can taste anything they want for a fee; www.mvc.sk September: Vintage in several towns of the region (Bratislava-Rača, Modra, Pezinok, Svätý Jur) offers the opportunity to taste burčiak (young wine or immature wine typical for the region) October: Wines at the castle Červený Kameň Wine tasting in cellars of the castle; www.hradcervenykamen.sk use of Slovakvarieties has been growing significantlyin recentyears. Miškovičová specified that thewhite Devín grape,a cross between theTramín červený(Gewürztraminer) andVeltlínske červenobielevarieties,produces a green- yellowwinewith a moderate spicyaroma, leaning towards Muscat.Thisvariety, crossed byDorota Pospíšilová and Ondrej Korpás in 1958 in theWine Research Institute in Bratislava,produces dry wines aswell as naturallysweetwines. “Theyenthralwith spiciness,fullness and perfect harmony,” Miškovičová said, adding that Devín,within its aroma and taste,conceals hints of dried apricot, dandelion honeyand bread. The Dunajvarietywas created by Pospíšilová in 1958,when she first crossed Muškát Bouchetwith Oporto and then with Svätovavrinecké (St.Laurent).With its earlyripening it is averysuitable varietyfor Slovak climatic conditions.It also has good resistance to frost. As the capital of the country,it is onlyfitting that Bratislava’svineyards also made the citythe first significant viticultural andwine-making town inwhat is nowSlovakia.However,the commercial prosperityof the modern city, and pressure from developers,has meant the acreage ofvineyards in Bratislava has decreased over theyears. Bratislava and its surroundings belong to the Small Carpathianwine- growing area and the region’s changing terrains mean that each of itswine- growing districts is known for a different variety.In Rača it is Blaufränkisch or Frankovka modrá; inVajnoryit is thewhite Leanka; and Devín is best known for its currantwine,according to Kaňúchová. Over the last decades Devín has revived its tradition of production of qualitycurrantwine.Nowlocalwine makerswant to drawattention to this special kind ofwine and have organised the first festival RíbezľovýDevín (Currant Devín) to take place in July,2016. During the festivalvisitorswill have the opportunityto taste the traditional currant Devínwine made from red and black currants in the ratio 80:20,other kinds of currantwine aswell as other specialties made from currants.Their ambition is to make from the festival an annual tradition similar,for example, to the apricot festival in theAustrian Wachau. Frankovka has a royal seal of approval,bestowed byEmpress Maria Theresa in 1767.Shewas reputedly enchanted byits taste and qualityand deemed it suitable to be served at the imperial table.Two centuries later, scientistswere able to give her opinion some additional credencewhen they discovered resveratrol,an ingredient believed to have benefits to the heart,in Frankovka. According to Kaňúchová,the sunny location of thevineyards in Rača accounts for the qualityof Frankovka,a belief echoed byMiloš Máťuš,a grape grower andwine maker from the region,who added that the area also enjoys specific soil conditions.Máťuš,who is also one of the organisers of the annual festival of Frankovka in Bratislava,describes Frankovka modráwine as soft,full of concentrated bouquets of fruit and berries,with a harmonic and round taste. ManySlovakwine experts insist thatwine should be tastedwhere it is produced,and a lot ofwine makers have thrown open their cellars to allowvisitors the opportunityto do just that.Numerous ancient cellars or brand newpremises are open throughout theyear,manyclustered along the so-called “wine roads” that snake the country. The Small Carpathian Wine Route (MVC) is the oldest example in Slovakia and it hosts several popular events through the year,including the annual autumn Day of Open Wine Cellars and the annual spring St Urban’s Day of Open Cellars.On both occasions,many of the top wine producers open up for visitors to taste young and vintage wines. Meanwhile, the Slovak National Collection of Wine in Apponyi’s Palace on Bratislava’s Main Square offers a collection of the 100 best wines from Slovakia to taste or buy year-round. Booking is required. -JanaLiptáková-

82 bratislava: luxury LUXURY ACCOMMODATION Albrecht Hotel  Mudroňova 82; map A 2 www.hotelalbrecht.com Arcadia Hotel  Františkánska 3, map C 3 (c 2); www.arcadia-hotel.sk Grand Hotel River Park  Dvořákovo nábrežie 6; map A 3 www.grandriverpark.com Marrol’s Boutique Hotel  Tobrucká 4; map D 4 www.hotelmarrols.sk Sheraton Hotel  Pribinova 12; map E 4 www.sheratonbratislava.sk Tulip House Hotel  Štúrova 10; map D 3 www.tuliphousehotel.com 51UFO restaurant N page: 30 8Historical building SND N page: 13 M·ONA fashion store  Laurinská 17; map D 3  0.3 km (3 min) www.monafashion.sk a Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00, Sat 10:00-18:00 I. Polo Klub Bratislava 1888  Schloss Niederweiden 1, Austria  24.9 km (25 min) Å +421 (0)2 5292-3222 a Tue (individual training), Wed (club chuckers), Thu-Fri (individual training), Sat-Sun (club chuckers); booking necessary €80 (a polo lesson with an Argentine professional polo player and a hired "polo-pony"); €50 (a polo riding lesson and dressage training for polo with own horses) å WC Small and Slovak, but no less luxurious Bratislava is often overlooked as a destination for the high-end traveller. The city’s reputation tends to be founded on its modest,undiscovered qualities and low prices.Yet Slovakia actually has a remarkably modern capital,with luxurious hotels on the banks of one of Europe’s most spectacular rivers,as well numerous glorious old buildings containing exquisite restaurants, boutiques and spas.Each is packed with unique central European charm,but with standards to match the best of the west.It is possible here to take romantic walks by the Danube,visit enchanting little cafés in the OldTown,else relax in spas and five-star hotels.The city boasts delicious cuisine,beautiful golf courses and even venues for polo matches.You can experience extraordinaryviews from hotel suites,without the noise and crowds of many European cities. As a bonus,everything is in walking distance.Many of Bratislava’s finest hotels,boutiques and galleries are in the OldTown.But if you wish to stray further,there are ample opportunities to picnic by mediaeval castles,or play sports in exceptionallywell appointed facilities.You can return in the evening for a spot of opera at one of Europe’s most enchanting theatres. Sleepand eattrendy Bratislava Airport is situated only ten minutes drive from the centre of the Old Town, but if you take a room at the Grand Hotel River Park,you can take a ride from the airport in a glamorous Rolls Royce limousine.This is one of several five-star establishments in Bratislava, and, like the Albrecht Hotel, situated on the top of a hill close to Bratislava Castle, or Sheraton Hotel in Eurovea district, is appointed with the finest modern designs. Other high- end establishments, such as Tulip House or Marrol’s Boutique hotels, combine historical appeal with luxurious fittings. Marrol’s was named the best hotel in the world by the Expedia’s 2012 Insiders’ Select ranking. Similarly, the Arcadia Hotel in the heart of the Old Town offers stunning Renaissance arcades in the hotel lobby. The Danube offers a host of possibilities for romance in the Slovak capital, starting with dinner in one of Bratislava’s landmarks: the restaurant in the pod at the top of the SNP Bridge, looming 85 metres over the river.As well as serving wonderful seasonal Mediterranean and Asian cuisine, the UFO restaurant offers a unique opportunity to watch the captivating sunset over the river and city. Visitors can enjoy both the atmosphere of the spa as well as a view of Bratislava: Zion Spa Photo: Courtesy of Hubert J.E. Sereď

bratislava: luxury 83 Slávica  Laurinská 17; map D 3  0.3 km (3 min) www.slavicadizajn.sk a Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00, Sat 11:00-17:00 Zion Spa  Dvořákovo nábrežie 6 (the eleventh floor of the Grand Hotel River Park); map A 3  1.8 km (22 min)  3.6 km (8 min) Å +421 (0)2 3223-8451 www.zionspa.sk a Mon-Fri 6:30- 23:00, Sat-Sun 7:00-23:00; Mon- -Sun 10:00-22:00 (spa procedures) from €45 ä é WC Spa in Arcadia Hotel  Františkánska 3; map C 3 (c 2)  0.18 km (2 min) Å +421 (0)2 5949-0500 www.arcadia-hotel.sk a Mon-Sun 9:00-23:00 from €90 ä é WC 7Spa  Hlboká 7 1.5 km (21 min)  1.8 km (4 min) u SAV v 21, 25, 32, 34, 63, 64, 83, 84, 93, 141, 184, 204, 206, 209, 212 Å +421 (0)2 2321-6244 www.7spa.sk from €9 a Mon-Sun 9:00-21:00 ä é WC High-end entertainment Walking into the OldTown centre, you will be greeted by the magnificent historical building of the Slovak National Theatre,which also serves as the opera house.A full program of operatic performances plays from September by the end of June,including those from travelling companies,and featuring all the biggest hitters: Verdi,Mozart, Rossini,etc. Bratislava has always been a thriving commercial hub, and there are numerous glossy shopping centres dotted around the city with hundreds of stores and boutiques. But the best work of local designers can be found in the Old Town and, for example, in the small M.ONA fashion store located on Laurinská street. The shop’s Czech owner Eva Příkaská decided to support local designers by giving them a space to present their collections,and the stylish concept store is now a showcase for the established and up-and-coming alike.Zuzana,Zeman, Marcel Holubec,Kateřina Geislerová and Tatina Kovaříková,among others,have their wares on sale here.Alternatively, Slávica,owned by a Slovak model Ivica Sláviková,located next to the M.ONA fashion store,also stocks the best of Slovak fashion and design. Polo While golf is gradually beginning to take hold in Slovakia,it is also possible to go several steps further up the ladder of elite sports and sample the refined world of polo. “Polo is in fact like a golf on a horse,” said Peter Godanyi, a professional polo player and a founder of Polo Klub Bratislava,the only polo club in Slovakia - even if their main facilities are 25km away in Niederweiden,Austria. Polo fields are four times as large as a soccer pitch but are maintained like golf courses.The tournament pitch in Niederweiden is close to a wonderful Schloss Hof castle and visitors cannot onlywatch official tournaments,but can also observe the team practice during the season. “Visitors don’t have to play polo themselves,they can experience the atmosphere as well,” said Godanyi. “Visitors can organise picnics,have a lovely daywith the horses and they can see something they don’t see every day.” Wellness Afteralongdayeitherinoroutofthe city,wearyvisitorscanbathetheirlimbs inoneoftheexclusivewellnessandspa facilitiesfoundinthebesthotels.Few canmatchtheZionSpaintheGrand HotelRiverPark,locatedonthe11th floorandofferingamazingviewsover theDanubeandBratislavathroughthe glasswalls.Alternatively,thecellarofthe ArcadiaHotel,whichnowservesasthe wellnessarea,istheoldest partofabuilding listedonthe National Heritageof Slovakialist.Ironically,the areanowusedforpampering andrelaxationwasusedas atorturechamberinthe13th century. “We’vetravelledalot,all overEurope,andthisisright uptherewitheverywhereelse –Paris,Vienna,Lubljana,”said a54-year-oldAmericantourist namedChris,marvellingatthe buildingsinBratislava’smain square. Even though it maybe smaller in scale,standards are high here.Bratislava can offer the same luxury as Paris, London or NewYork –all with a dose of a certain Slovak charm. - Miroslava Germanová - Polo is a relatively young sport in Slovakia but it also draws from the sport’s tradition among the Austrian-Hungarian monarchy. The country currently has three official and two unofficial clubs. Photo: Christian Prandl

84 bratislava: family 2Children’s Museum (Slovak National Museum) Accessible via the entrance on Muzejná Street. English-speaking visitors should arrange their visit in advance. €2 (children €3) N page: 12 37Bibiana, International House of Art for Children  Panská 41 map C 4  0.45 km (6 min) Å +421 (0)2 5443-4986  www.bibiana.sk a Tue-Sun 10:00- 18:00  from €1 é WC 42Bratislava Castle N page: 26 83Zoo Bratislava  Mlynská dolina; map F 4  5.4 km (11 min) u Zoo v 30, 31, 32, 37, 39, 92, 192 Å +421 (0)2 6010-2111 www.zoobratislava.sk é WC a Apr-Sept 9:00-18:00; Oct 10:00- 16:00; Nov-Feb 10:00-15:00; Mar 10:00-16:00 from €4 (children from €3) ä e 86Atlantis Science Centre  Prievozská 18 6.7 km (8 min) u Prievozská v 70, 96, 201, 202, 208 Å +421 (0)917 237-454 G  www.atlantiscenters.sk a Mon-Fri 8:00-17:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-18:00 from €6 (children from €5) å e WC K1Swimming pool area, Hotel Nivy  Líščie nivy 3  4.7 km (10 min) u Slovanet v 8, 9, 50, 66 Å +421 (0)2 5541-0390 www.hotelnivy.sk from €5 (children from €2.5) ä e é WC K2Lanoland – Ropes course  Koliba-Kamzík  6.1 km (12 min) u Koliba v 44, 203 Å +421 (0)948 000-968 www.lanoland.sk a Jul-Aug: Tue-Fri 15:00-19:00, Sat-Sun 11:00-19:00; Apr-Jun, Sep-Oct: Sat-Sun 11:00-18:00 €9 (children €5) ä WC Ample fun for all the family It is mid-afternoon in earlyApril and on the banks of the Danube in the centre of Bratislava there is a hive of joyful activity.Children are running in and out of what resembles a huge nose-shaped play-house or busily searching the area for other undiscovered exhibits. Children’s Museum Six-year-old Nina Sudovská and her older brother Maťo are visiting the Children’s Museum,part of the Slovak National Museum (SNM),for the first time.They are enjoying one of Bratislava’s unique attractions designed specifically to combine fun and education for the younger visitor. “I like it so much,” said Nina.“I was in the mouth and in the nose,I was everywhere.It was fun.Now I am going to sing in the ear to destroy a bad bacteria.” She promptly disappeared inside a huge ear,which was part of the previous museum’s exhibitions entitled “Me and My Body”.The most contemporary exhibitions focus on the Earth,recycling,and the vital importance of water. The Children’s Museum is the only one of its kind in Slovakia,and has successfully managed to provide a safe and enjoyable environment for children and their parents to learn in a creative way.Andrea Sudovská,Nina and Maťo’s mother said: “It is very educative and also very nice”. Children are encouraged to interact with the exhibits - they can touch everything - and as a result begin a positive relationship with museums, that in the past have often repelled them. Bibiana A few streets away,near to the SNP Bridge,is Bibiana,the International House ofArt for Children,whose stated purpose is to develop a sense of arts and culture in the young.The gallery hosts interactive exhibitions,theatre shows and creative workshops,and is packed with fantasy and creativity around every corner.Its playfully- painted entrance hall leads to a winter wonderland on the ground floor and upstairs into a gallery space filled with games involving food.Families are encouraged by the unusual exhibitions to make ordinary things interesting and amazing. “It is nicely created for children; in fact it is all about children,” said the mother of 11-year-oldAlexandra,who was excitedly trying on a costume of Cleopatra.“Bibiana is a very good way to spend time with children.I often visit with my daughter.” Bibiana is also behind the regular 83 2 42 37 86 K2 K1 K3 The Children’s Museum is specially designed to combine fun and education for youngsters Bibiana’s mission is to hone a sense of the arts and culture in children

bratislava: family 85 Biennial of Illustrations,Biennial ofAnimation and the Slovak IBBY (International Board on Books for Young People),a series of exhibitions and festivals showcasing art and animation specifically for children. Science Centre Children are also encouraged to visit the Atlantis Science Centre,on Prievozská street,in the Ružinov borough.This unique experience centre allows children and adults to enjoy learning about various aspects of science. On a recent visit,10-year-old Laura bounded down the corridor,insisting: “The bubbles are amazing,you have to see those bubbles.” She was referring to one of numerous exhibits at the centre, which finds a fun way to teach scientific principles to children as young as three. TheAtlantis Centre also includes a Pharaoh Museum where children are invited to discover the mysteries of the ancient Egyptians,including the mummification process. Playground In the verdant forest of Koliba there is the Lanoland Ropes Course.To get there; follow the road or the hiking path indicated by a green sign.It is an adventure playground that has grown in popularityyear on year and provides entertainment for adults and children alike.The ropes course consists of five tracks through the trees – a combination of bridges,zip lines and swings – that vary in difficulty according to age and ability of the visitors.There is a “ground” track for the youngest children,then a “blue” course,which means light intensity and is one of the most popular tracks here.The difficulty gradually increases through the red,medium intensity course,through a yellow “team” track designed primarily for couples and the most difficult “black” track,recommended only for the most proficient and athletic visitors. Castles,swimming andanimals Children can also get a lot out of a visit to some of the region’s most notable historical sites,including the recently-renovated Bratislava Castle, which houses History Museum of SNM.Similarly,the 13th century Red Stone Castle (Červený Kameň),near to the village of Častá is well known for its historical festivals,with falconry displays and actors in period dress. Just across the borders withAustria is the beautiful baroque castle Schloss Hof,commissioned by Prince Eugene of Savoy.Meanwhile,Roman times are remembered at the historical exhibitions in Gerulata,near Rusovce,and the Archaeological Park Carnuntum,a few kilometres further from the Slovak- Austrian border. When it all gets too much,you maywish to take the children to one of numerous spa and wellness complexes, which allow adults to relax in the healing waters while the kids can enjoy pools,slides and wave machines. Aquapark Senec,situated about 30km from Bratislava,is one of the biggest in the country,offering countless attractions for everyone.Meanwhile in Bratislava itself,Hotel Nivy has a selection of pools and saunas in its wellness area,and you can also stay overnight. Finally,Bratislava Zoo, in the Karlova Ves district of the city,offers a decent respite from the bustle, despite its location beside a motorway.Originally opened in 1960,it is by no means as bleak a place as might be feared.Instead, the animal species,including white tigers,bears,giraffes and the ever-amusing meerkats, enjoy sizeable enclosures and a remarkably clean environment.An exhibition of dinosaurs among the existent animals is slightly confusing, but is an agreeable boon for the younger generation of dino-lovers. Outside the city,but still in the region,children can experience direct contact with domestic animals in places such asAbeland near Lozorno or Biofarma near Stupava. - Natália Semianová - K3Al Trivio (special restaurant for families with children)  Metodova 6 (Central); map F 1  3.3 km (8 min) u Trnavské mýto a Mon-Sun 9:00-22:00 www.altrivio.sk/central Å +421 (0)2 2086-4600 Children playgrounds in shopping centres AvionShoppingPark(www.avion.sk) Children playground; Playtime Aupark (www.aupark-bratislava.sk) Time Out Bory Mall (www.borymall.sk) Time Out Central (www.central.sk) Time Out Eurovea (www.eurovea.sk) Be cool Sport Kids Park Polus City Center Rodinné centrum (Family centre) www.rodinnecentrumpolus. webnode.sk River Park Woow Toys (www.woowtoys.sk) outside the city R3Lozorno-Abeland Village of crafts, horse riding www.abeland.sk N page: 92-93 R4Stupava-Biofarm Bio farm www.biofarma.sk N page: 92-93 R14Aquapark Senec  Slnečné jazerá, Senec  33 km (27 min); www.aquathermal.sk Å +421 (0)2 4564-8021 a Mon-Sun 10:00-21:00 from €10 (children from €4) ä é WC R26Červený Kameň Castle N page: 91 Schloss Hof Castle N page: 100 Archaeological Park Carnuntum N page: 100 One of the biggest water parks in the country offers slides for children and relaxation for adults Photo: Courtesy of Lanoladn Zoo Bratislava

86 bratislava: without barriers Accessible sites 2Slovak National Museum N page: 12 3Slovak National Gallery N page: 12 4Reduta Slovak Philharmonic N page: 12 8Slovak National Theatre - Historical building N page: 13 14Old Town Hall (museum) Museum; (Old Town Hall Tower not accessible) N page: 16 16Primate’s Palace (gallery) Gallery and chapel N page: 17 18Nedbalka Gallery N page: 15 24Ursuline Church and Convent N page: 19 25Franciscan Church of Lord’s Annunciation N page: 19 28Red Crayfish Pharmacy (museum) N page: 20 30Church of St Stephen N page: 21 31St Catherine’s Chapel N page: 21 33Zichy Palace Gallery N page: 22 38St Martin’s Cathedral N page: 24 41Church of the Clarisses N page: 23 42Bratislava Castle Accessible upon request, excluding Tower and Treasury N page: 26 43Museum of Jewish Culture N page: 50-52 49River Park River-front district N page: 30 52UFO restaurant Accessible upon request; access only to the Restaurant/Bar N page: 30 53Sad Janka Kráľa Park N page: 72-73 56Eurovea River-front district N page: 30 57Slovak National Theatre - New building N page: 30 71Medical Garden Garden N page: 72-73 73Tržnica Market place N page: 60-61 76Museum of Transport N page: 50-52 78Lourdes cave N page: 62-63 79Horský Park Park N page: 72-73 81Devín Castle N page: 37 82Botanical Garden N page: 72-73 83ZOO N page: 84-85 89Kuchajda Lake N page: 72-73 90Zlaté Piesky Lake N page: 38 94B-S 8 HřbitovN page: 60-61 95Veľký Draždiak Lake N page: 72-73 99Danubiana Meulensteen Art Museum N page: 39 Slow progress towards an accessible Bratislava Every tourist has a list of sites to see on their trip to Bratislava: the Castle, St Martin’s Cathedral,Mirbach Palace, Devín,among others.Yet for disabled people Bratislava’s palaces,as well as many of its other famous monuments, remain impregnable even in the 21st century.They are guarded neither by knights nor rivers nor cliffs.Rather it’s simply that curbs are too high, road-crossings have no audible beeps,or elevators have not been installed. The difficulties for handicapped people can begin on arrival,particularly if a visitor comes by train.The main city station still awaits reconstruction and has only a low-quality ramp in the concourse.Furthermore, only one platform is accessible without traversing stairs. The city also invested in dozens of accessible public transport vehicles.,and the situation improved over recent years. What is accessible? Many of Bratislava’s most prized assets are its historical buildings,whose ancient designs and precious fabric inevitably make them difficult to access. Unfortunately,unique historical places can often not be touched in order to preserve their value.Refurbishment works at some museums have been carried out with the special needs of disabled people kept in mind. The OldTown Hall (Stará Radnica) and the Pharmacy Museum (U Červeného raka) in the OldTown are accessible,and Devín Castle is also partially accessible.Better still,the ancient Roman site Gerulata in Rusovce has a “tactual” exhibition around which visitors are guided by touch. Many theatres in Bratislava are fully accessible,including the Slovak National Theatre,HeinekenTower Stage and Theatre Wüstenrot.But some are not yet prepared for disabled visitors. “Astorka is not suitable at all,” said Monika Vrábľová,the head of the SlovakAssociation for Disabled People (Slovenský zväz telesne postihnutých - SZTP). “The entry staircase is steep and accessible toilets are missing.” She added that Nová Scéna is partly suitable,the Puppet Theatre is suitable, as are the cinemas in shopping centres. It is positive that Bratislava is now committed to improving the conditions for handicapped people, and is attempting to extend hospitality to tourists regardless of their physical abilities.But even though the situation is slowly improving,and more and more places are becoming accessible,it will not be enough until there are no barriers remaining in the city.  - Ján Beracka - Not all places in Bratislava are accessible for wheelchairs, but the situation is improving

Photo: TASR Run for fun in Bratislava Running enthusiasts have a plethora of opportunities for running in Slovakia’s capital,be it a daily run or a big running event. Joggers will quickly find that Bratislava offers enough diverse landscape to cater to anyone’s preferences: there are long running trails,parks,as well as hilly terrain. Nature is basically just a 15-minute run away from any spot in the city. Miguel Rosa from Portugal recommends the Eurovelo 6 cycle road: “not polluted,close to the river, surrounded by nature,with other people running,cycling or on roller blades.”Alan Mauldin,anAmerican living in Bratislava,usually runs along the Danube “from Eurovea to Lafranconi and across the bridge and through Sad Janka Kráľa.” Diego Loyola,from Mexico,recommends Železná Studienka on the hilly side of Bratislava: “the scenery is incredible.” The running community in Bratislava is quite welcoming,says Loyola,“from the waves or head nods from other runners to the cheers from the public that see you at a race.” The biggest event in the city is the Bratislava Marathon,which usually opens the season. At the Devín to Bratislava run,the most notable difference from races in the US forAlan Mauldin was the fact that some people were drinking slivovica and beef before the race,rather than afterward. “Maybe I need to test this idea to see if my time is better after a few shots of slivovica,” he said. The Devín to Bratislava run is among the most popular running events in Bratislava.The run has been organised since 1921,with some breaks,and is the oldest athletic event in Slovakia. “The whole experience feels like an enjoyable party,” Loyola said.He also enjoys the fact that there is unusual spontaneous public support for the runners during the event. “How many other races do you have people setting up water and beer drinking stations along the route of the race?” he said. Bratislava’s Night Run is another definite on the to- do list.The special feature of this run,apart from it taking place at night, is that the route goes through the long tram tunnel under the castle hill,where DJs stage their music and lights for the event.People who took part in the run talk about it as a memorable experience. “It allowed us to see a lot of the city,” Nikki Uhure from the UK said. Runners also mentioned the Color Run,during which participants are covered in coloured powder as they progress along the route.In Bratislava it is a charity run, similar to the Wings for Life run that also has an edition in the Slovak capital. – Michaela Terenzani – Plan your run in Bratislava Mar/Apr: ČSOB Bratislava Marathon www.bratislavamarathon.com Apr: Devín - Bratislava www.devin-bratislava.eu May: Wings for Life www.wingsforlifeworldrun.com/ sk/en/ May: Run in colors www.runincolors.sk May: Volkswagen Slovakia Run & Fun www.bratislavamarathon.com Sep: dm Womens Run www.bratislavamarathon.com Sep: Telekom Night Run www.bratislavamarathon.com Oct: Bratislava’s Cross www.starz.sk Dec 31: Run across Bratislava’s bridges www.starz.sk bratislava: running 87 Joel Mwangi has won the Devín- -Bratislava Run several times. The winner of this race runs with a laurel wreath through the finish line, which is given before the finish by men or women dressed in traditional costumes. ČSOB Bratislava Marathon is the biggest running event in the city Several charity runs are organised in Bratislava Photo: STaRZ

88 bratislava www.tourismbratislava.com BRATISLAVA TOURIST BOARD - MEMBERS ACCOMMODATION AND HOTELS AND FOOD Austria Trend Hotel Management Slovakia, spol. s r.o. www.austria-trend.at/Hotel-Bratislava Eurovea, s.s. www.sheratonbratislava.com Best hotel properties, a.s. www.grandriverpark.com Carlton Property, s.r.o. www.radissonblu.sk/hotel-bratislava City Hotel Bratislava s.r.o. www.hotelbratislava.sk Diamond hotel Slovakia, s.r.o. www.crowneplaza.sk FalkensteinerHotelBratislava,s.r.o. www.falkensteiner.com/sk/hotel/ bratislava FantastiCo, s.r.o. www.fantastico.biz Hotely Plus, a.s. www.hotelyplus.sk Orava - stav, s.r.o. www.biofarma.sk www.slovakpub.sk RR Consulting, s.r.o. www.hostelblues.sk Hotel Patio - Slovak Hostel, s.r.o. www.patiohostel.com Slovunit Chorvátska, s.r.o. www.hotelmamas.sk Tulip House, a.s. www.tuliphousehotel.com Víno Matyšák s.r.o. www.hotelmatysak.sk Zemegula, s.r.o. www.u-f-o.sk TOURIST GUIDES AND TOUR OPERATORS Asociácia sprievodcov Bratislavy www.asba.sk Adamcová Daniela www.taste-bratislava.com Authentic Slovakia s.r.o. www.authenticslovakia.com Berdis Juraj www.berdis.eu Best Eastern hotels, s.r.o. +421 (0)905 228-026 Blue Danube tours www.bluedanube.sk Bratislava tourist service, s.r.o. www.bratislava-info.sk CK HelL s.r.o. www.ckhell.sk Csonga Miroslav +421 (0)940 337-971 Go Running tours Bratislava www.gorunningtoursbratislava.com FLORA TOUR, s.r.o. www.floratour.sk Gubová Dagmar www.carpatica.sk Jitka Spillerová www.dowina.sk Roland Loureiro +421 (0)903 531-388 Luka - Tours, s.r.o. www.bratislavasightseeing.com Maroš Borsky +421 (0)907 538-988 Meetcentives, s.r.o. +421 (0)2 5920-1711 Michalíková Renáta +421 (0)917 497-524 Mladen Heruc +421 (0)944 232-490 MS agency, s.r.o. www.bratislava-guide.sk Paxtravel, s.r.o. www.paxtravel.sk Petrovičová Dagmar +421 (0)902 230-453 Plus Tour, s.r.o. www.bratislava-tours.sk Satur Travel, a.s. www.satur.sk Slovakotourist s.r.o. www.tryslovakia.com Slovenská spoločnosť sprievodcov CR www.touristguides.sk Tour4u, s.r.o. www.tour4u.sk Visit Bratislava, s.r.o. +421 (0)907 538-988 Volek Štefan +421 (0)907 930-999 X-cursion s.r.o. www.what-bratislava.sk Znasik.travel, s.r.o. +421 (0)915 808-080 MICE Be Cool, s.r.o. event organizer, mostly running events; www.becool.sk Bratislava Hotels and Travel, s.r.o. DMC-related services www.bratislavahotels.com Emerge, s.r.o. PCO services, planning of conferences, events, workshops, social gatherings; www.conference- -slovakia.sk Enjoy Slovakia DMC, s.r.o. travel events organizer; www.enjoyslovakia.com Guarant International, s.r.o. incentive tourism; www.guarant.sk Sharkam V.I.P. catering, s.r.o. catering company; www.sharkam.sk S - tours, s r.o. meeting and conference organizer www.s-tours.sk VOLKSWAGEN SLOVAKIA, a.s. car producer; www.volkswagen.sk TOURIST ATTRACTIONS, SERVICES & OTHERS ALIANCIA STARÁ TRŽNICA, o.z. Place for food markets and cultural events www.staratrznica.sk American chamber of commerce in Slovak republic www.amcham.sk Astor Slovakia, s.r.o. publisher of the yearbook Travel Guide of Slovakia; www.lexikon.sk Mgr. Emil Haas escape room; www.brainteaselava.sk Bratislavské kultúrne a informačné stredisko organization of programs, services and products in the fields of culture, tourism, sports and social life www.bkis.sk Bratislavský okrášľovací spolok Beautification Association Bratislava www.bos-bratislava.sk Centrum moderného umenia, n.o. gallery of modern art; www.danubiana.sk Dušan Šmidák tourist sightseing train +421 (0)905 204-615 Ekonomická univerzita v Bratislave University of Economics in Bratislava www.euba.sk Minimedia, s.r.o. advertising and media agency www.foxone.sk Galéria mesta Bratislavy city gallery; www.gmb.sk Galéria Nedbalka, n.o. gallery of slovak modern art www.nedbalka.sk Hot chilli lode, s.r.o. cruises on Danube river www.vyletneplavbypodunaji.sk Hudobné centrum concert organizers, promotions of slovak music www.hc.sk/en M&L Hardcorrect, s.r.o. bike and scooter rental +421 (0)948 884-997 MAPA Slovakia Editor, s.r.o. map producer www.mapaeditor.sk Múzeum mesta Bratislavy city museum www.muzeum.bratislava.sk Divoká voda, s.r.o. sport complex offering rafting, surfing, flyboard www.divokavoda.sk Renáta Hermysová production of traditional slovak folk majolica www.majolika-r.sk Starz Management of sports and leisure facilities of Bratislava www.starz.sk Slovenský dom-Centrope provides special services for its members specializing in the areas of culture, tourism, and networking www.domcentrope.sk The Rock, s.r.o. Publisher of The Slovak Spectator newspaper www.spectator.sme.sk Volis Academy, s.r.o. language academy www.volis.sk ZOO Bratislava www.zoobratislava.sk Zuzana Baloghová coffee and souvenirs www.zeppelincafe.sk Zväz vinohradníkov a vinárov Association of winegrowers and winemakers www.nsvsr.sk Židovská náboženská obec cultural, religious and social activities for the Jewish community +421 (0)907 538-988 Hlavné mesto Slovenskej republiky Bratislava Bratislava city www.bratislava.sk

bratislava: outside the city 89 R1 R11 R21 R30 R2 R12 R22 R32 R3 R13 R23 R33 R4 R14 R24 R5 R15 R6 R16 R7 R8 R28 R9 R19 R29 R10 R20 R31 R26 R27 R25 R18 R17 Dračí hrádok Vápenná Klokoč Ostrý Kameň Malokarpatská vínnacesta Biely kríž Biely kameň Villa rustica R11 Hrubá Borša (farm) pg 92-93 R12 Kostolná pri Dunaji (Siberian tigers) pg 92-93 R13 Kráľová pri Senci (tourist flights) pg 95 R14 Senec (aquapark, lake, observatory) pg 92-93, 84-85 R15 Bernolákovo (paintball, golf) pg 95 R16 Ivanka pri Dunaji R17 Malokarpatská vínna cesta (Small Carpathian Wine Route) pg 90-91, 80-81 R18 Svätý Jur (wine, hiking) pg 90-91 R19 Biely Kameň (castle ruins, hiking) pg 98-99 R20 Slovenský Grob (goose feast) pg 98-99 R21 Pezinok (wine, pottery) pg 90-91, 94, 80-81 R22 Šenkvice (wine) pg 80-81 R23 Pezinská Baba hill (hiking) pg 98-99 R24 Malé Karpaty (the Small Carpathians) (hiking, cycling) pg 98-99 R25 Modra (wine, pottery) pg 90-91, 80-81, 94 R26 Červený Kameň (castle, hiking) pg 91, 53, 84-85 R27 Doľany (wine) pg 80-81 R28 Vápenná hill (hiking) pg 98-99 R29 Plavecké podhradie (castle ruins, hiking) pg 98-99 R30 Plavecký hrad (castle ruins, hiking) pg 98-99 R31 Klokoč hill (hiking) pg 98-99 R32 Smolenice (castle, cave, hiking) pg 98-99 R33 Ostrý Kameň (castle ruins, hiking) pg 98-99 R1 Veľké Leváre (Haban Museum) pg 94 R2 Malacky (Holy Stairs, golf) pg 62-63, 105 R3 Lozorno (farm, shooting range) pg 92-93, 95, 84-85 R4 Stupava (farm) pg 92-93, 84-85 R5 Pajštún (castle ruins, hiking) pg 98-99 R6 Marianka (pilgrimage site) pg 62-63 R7 Dračí hrádok (castle ruins, hiking) pg 98-99 R8 Biely kríž (hiking) pg 98-99 R9 Villa rustica (remnants of an ancient Roman building) pg 98-99 R10 Malý Dunaj (inland waterway, canoe) pg 70-71 0 3.1 6.2 9.3 12.4 mile = 3.1 mile

90 bratislava: outside the city R18 Svätý Jur  16 km (21 min) v 20 min Feši Restpub  Krajinská cesta 58, Svätý Jur Å +421 (0)903 705-245 www.fesi-restpub.menu.atlas.sk Wine tasting – Dubovský- -Grančič  Zuby 293, Svätý Jur Å +421 (0)905 607-379 www.dubovskygrancic.sk a booking necessary  depends on number of tasted wines R21 Pezinok  21 km (28 min) v 30 min Small Carpathian Museum N page: 80-81 City Wine Shop  Radničné nám. 9, Pezinok Å +421 (0)907 593-294 www.vinoteka-pezinok.sk aMon- -Fri 10:00-18:00, Sat 9:00-12:00 Wine tasting – Víno Hacaj  Cajlanská ulica 66, Pezinok Å + 421 (0)948 539-453 www.hacaj.sk a booking necessary R25 Modra  28 km (35 min) v 50 min Zoya Museum (ELESKO)  Elesko Wine Park 2275, Modra Å +421 (0)2 2092-2649 www.eleskorestaurant.sk The restaurant and museum are located to the southwest from the town among vineyards. a Wed-Sat 11:30-22:00, Sun 11:30-18:30 Museum of Slovak Ceramics Sculpture and Gallery of Ignác Bizmayer N page: 94 Wine tasting – Chateau Modra  Štúrova ulica 108, Modra Å +421 (0)907 944-726 www.chateaumodra.sk a booking necessary  depends on number of tasted wines The Catholic Church of St George, built in Svätý Jur at the beginning of the 13th century Through the Small Carpathians Historical wine cellars,with their distinctive moist smell and walls overgrown by moulds,make all your senses tingle.These entire places are dominated bywine: stacked bottles cram the shelves,barrels line the floor and people quietly chat with glasses in their hands.There are countless examples of places like this on the Small Carpathian Wine Route,a string of more than 30 towns and villages along the east side of the Small Carpathians of which Pezinok,Modra and Svätý Jur are the best known. There are more than 100 wine growers in this region, each following a tradition that dates in the area from Roman times.The real wine renaissance came in the 13th century,when German colonists settled here. According to the 18th century polymath Matej Bel, “Svätý Jur wine is the best,Pezinok vineyards are the most beautiful and Modra vineyards are the most fertile”. Although a lot has changed in the region since then,the assessment still holds largely true. Driving out of Bratislava,Svätý Jur is the first town to greet the keen wine-taster,but it’s worth taking a few minutes to explore the town itself before delving into the cellars.Svätý Jur’s hillside location grants terrific views from the top of the town.Eventually you will wind up with a glass in your hand and in the company of a local wine producer. “You never buy good wine at the supermarket,“ said Miloš Grančič, 41,who is typical of Svätý Jur’s wine makers, decrying the mass production of millions of litres of wine a year. “The thing I like the most about wine making is to sit down with people, talk with each other and enjoy the wine.” Further along the road from Svätý Jur is Pezinok,the de facto centre of the Small Carpathian Wine Route.The town also houses the Malokarpatské múzeum (Small Carpathian Museum),which informs visitors about the wine-making process and the lives of the people who work in the vineyards. “The wine in the past was produced from lots of grape types,so the wine wasn’t pure and it contained more alcohol,” said Martin Hrubala,the museum’s historian. “Nowadays,85 percent of wine produced in the Small Carpathians is white wine.” “Modra – the capital of wine” (a registered trademark) is another typical wine making town whose hillside vineyards can be seen from afar. Although the most common wines for the region are internationally- known white wines such as Riesling or Veltliner there are also new Slovak grape varieties. “You can taste Dunaj, Hron or Nitria,which are red wines,” said Jerguš Hajdučík, a wine-maker standing next to a row of barrique barrels. Apart from winemaking,Modra is well known for its multi-coloured,hand- painted ceramics,of which white and blue are the most typical.Various fine examples are displayed in an old tower gate converted into a small museum, as well as the gallery of Ignác Bismayer, where there is an exhibition of special ceramics depicting people working in vineyards,beggars,brides or typical Slovak outlaws. - Peter Nagy - Tasting Slovak wine along the Small Carpathian Wine Route is an excellent way to explore the region

bratislava: outside the city 91 R26 Hrad Červený Kameň (Red Rock Castle)  37 km (48 min) v 70 min uČastá Å +421 (0)33 245-5103 The castle is located on a cliff above the village of Častá. From Častá, you can either walk or drive (2 km) right to the castle where there is a large parking area. www.hradcervenykamen.sk a May-Sept: 9:00-17:00, Oct-Apr: Tue-Sun 9:30-15:00  €7 (€8 in ENG) ä e WC Červený Kameň is a goldmine of historical architecture, furniture, weapons, cellars and more A family home of red rock Between the 16th and mid-20th centuries, the renowned Pálffy familywere fortunate enough to call the castle at Červený Kameň (Red Rock) home.But to anyone born outside an order of Hungarian noblemen,their humble abode will be seen as nothing short of a monumental palace,now one of the most imposing and best preserved castles in Slovakia. Originally constructed in the 13th century in the foothills of the Small Carpathians,Červený Kameň was later owned by the prosperous mining magnateAnton Fugger,who began its transformation into both an “ultimate fortress” and a luxurious Renaissance residence.Fugger\'s rebuilding took place under the influence ofAlbrecht Dürer, arguably the most talented German painter of all time,and also a pioneer of design.The master builders’ finesse, coupled with Fugger’s wealth,produced a quite wonderful structure of style and stolidity,the perfect foundations for further renovations under the Pálffys,who were also hardly timid in their approach to decoration. The last Pálffy departed the castle in 1945,and its late 20th century refurbishment as a tourist attraction was probably easier than most similar projects. It is now chock-a-block with exceptional, sometimes eccentric,furnishings and art,and is large and grand enough to host conferences and exhibitions,including a meeting of European leaders in the early 21st century. Among countless notable sights is the “salla terenna”,or concert hall,on the ground floor,which resembles a mystical cave grotto with an underground lake and dripping walls providing a permanent accompaniment to occasional recitals held on the premises.The Pálffy family stage-coach is now on display in the entrance hall,and there is also an on-site apothecary,inlaid with turtleshell,built during the plague epidemic.Parked in a first floor gallery is a fur-lined sledge, covered in solid gold,the kind last seen hauling the White Witch through Narnia. Huge tapestries that line the walls were not only pleasing to the eye,but were also used to keep the warmth in the vast chambers.The inventory of impossible extravagance is endless. Lest we get carried away in the opulence,however,there is also an exhibition in the castle of savage weaponry,including one especially brutal teardrop-shaped sword favoured by the Ottoman invaders,complete with a nifty device for cutting off the ears of the slain in order to earn a bloody bonus for the slayer.It’s also impressive to see some primitive and recyclable hand grenades, essentially a metal handle attached to a rock. The knight’s banquet hall,decorative baroque chapel,well-stocked library and a dining hall replete with crystal chandeliers are probably only to be expected.But the enormous cellars are likely to surprise even the most seasoned castle-goer.The largest measures 90 metres in length and is something like a stone aircraft hangar.The lighting is unique: despite being buried in rock, natural light is channeled through vertical vents and the cellars are far from the cramped,dingy places you might expect. - Howard Swains - Photo: Courtesy of Bratislava Region Tourism

92 bratislava: outside the city Near the capital,near adventure If you have a spare day or two while visiting Bratislava,why not pay a visit to places outside the city. Sheepand Awooden village In Stupava,you can soon be surrounded by sheep,pigs, horses and other domestic animals in the unique bio farm,where you can also taste the national cuisine in the local restaurant or buy some food as a present.The Slovak cheeses korbáčiky and bryndza are both available in the shop,as well as žinčica (a sheep’s milk product) or home-made bread and cakes. The farm is especially popularwith families,and features a children’s playground,plus the opportunityto ride horses and ponies or to pet thevarious other animals.You can sampleyour food and drink on a small terrace area and enjoythe entertainment. “At Easter, there was a performance on a shepherd´s pipe by some skilled musicians,” said Jana Miklošová from the farm. In addition to the farm, you can also visit the manor house, Saint Stephen’s Church or a museum dedicated to the renowned ceramics maker Ferdiš Kostka.The area also offers plenty of hiking and cycling opportunities. The town of Lozorno is another welcome stop if you are fleeing the hectic life.The wooden village of Abeland is situated nearby, which features a chalet, tea house and church all constructed from timber.There is a rare, relaxing atmosphere as you gaze at still ponds stocked with fish or the surrounding untarnished environment. You can try shooting with a traditional bow and arrow, horse-riding, fencing or observing the locals go about their daily business, which they carry out dressed in period costume. You can also encounter more domestic animals, such as ducks, pigs or quails. You can also sample homemade goulash. “All visitors are foreign for us – we made our own kingdom here, coins included,” said Igor Abel, one of the owners of Abeland. “Everybody finds something they like and we are happy making new friends.” The crowded car park confirms Abeland’s popularity. Water,tigers and horses Approximately 22 kilometres south- west of Bratislava is Senec, best known for the Slnečné jazerá (Sunny Lakes) recreational area. The town also boasts Aquapark Senec, a complex of 11 swimming pools, water attractions, beach volleyball courts, a wellness centre and sauna, providing R14 Senec  31 km (28 min) v 50 min A popular summer location for tourists thanks to Slnečné Jazerá (Sunny Lakes) located to the east of the city. Aquapark Senec  Slnečné jazerá – sever, Senec Å +421 (2)4564-8021 Located in the north of the town after passing two roundabouts surrounded by many hotels. www.aquathermal.sk aMon-Sun 10:00-21:00 from €10 ä WC Solar – Senec Observatory  Nám. A. Molnára 2, Senec Å +421 (0)910 482-150 The observatory is connected to A. M. Szenczi school, close to the Church of St Nicolaus. www.senec.solarastronomy.sk a booking necessary voluntary Aquapark Senec provides everything for the visitor seeking a spot to relax, all the year round The wooden village of Abeland

bratislava: outside the city 93 R3 Lozorno  25 km (23 min) v 45 min Abeland  Abeland is located in the town of Lozorno, about 1 km past Vodná nádrž dam Å +421 (0)904 237-777 www.abeland.sk a Sat 10:00-18:00 é R4 Stupava  19 km (23 min) v 45 min Biofarm Stupava  Pass through Stupava and continue in the Lozorno direction for approximately 3 km. Then turn right onto a narrow two-way road through the forest. Å +421 (0)918 280-546 www.biofarma.sk a10:00-21:00 (during the summer), 11:00-20:00 (during the winter) free ä WC R11 Hrubá Borša  40 km (38 min) v 60 min Corporex farm  The farm is in the village of Hrubá Borša, approximately 7 km from Senec and signposted from the town. Å +421 (2) 4590-1322 a booking necessary R12 Kostolná pri Dunaji  36 km (33 min) v 60 min Oasis of the Siberian tiger  Leave the village of Kostolná pri Dunaji in the direction of Urbano- va Ves. After about 3 km, turn right onto a rough road, where Oasis is situated in the middle of a field. Å +421 (0)905 423-846 www.tigre.sk a Mon-Sun 12:00-16:00 (booking necessary) voluntary everything for the visitor seeking a spot to relax, all the year round. For those less interested in water tourism, however, there are other sights in the town, including the Turkish house, the Church of Saint Nicolas or the observatory, which is a part of the local school but open to visitors. The best time to visit is late at night, when you can admire a breathtaking view of the universe.The observatory is under the supervision of the astronomical association Solar, which provides a lecture series from leading astronomers and various projects and activities. It is necessary to book visits in advance, for a maximum of 12 people. There is more to see in the surrounding area too – if you can find it.To get to the main attraction in Kostolná pri Dunaji, visitors have to pass through the village and then take a right turn onto a dirt track. They will be rewarded by a visit to a farm where some 30 tigers and three lions now find their home. This oasis of the endangered Siberian tiger is run by about eight volunteers and financed by contributions. Much of the money goes to the approximate 10-15 kg of meat consumed by each beast each day. “It’s better to come in the winter, when they tend to be more active,” said Michaela Kocmundová, one of the volunteers. “It’s the most natural season for them. In the summer they are hidden in their sheds.” Although the animals are dangerous, there is no need to be afraid and no injuries have been sustained on the park. “You can determine the mood of the tiger by specific signs, movement and noises,” said Kocmundová. “I have known this tiger, Samko, since his birth. I’m not afraid of him.” Slightly less carnivorous animals can be found in the nearby village of Hrubá Borša, specifically at the Corporex riding school. “It’s a great place for the children from the cities,” said Miriam Agárdiová, the owner of the school. Horses, ponies, ducks, pheasants, parrots, and even ostriches could accompany you during your stay.There is also a pony that has been known to jump at visitors like a dog.Welcome to the farm,which is popular among people of any age.Take a saddle and helmet, and climb aboard. - Lucia Rusnáková, Michaela Gedaiová - The Oasis of Siberian Tigers is home to 24 tigers and three lions Biofarm Stupava

94 bratislava: outside the city Ancient crafts alive today The area around Bratislava has become internationally known as the home of folk majolica,a particular style of ceramics produced since the 16th century,especially centred on the towns of Pezinok and Modra.The craft was brought to the area by the Habans, a branch ofAnabaptists,who fled persecution in Germany,Switzerland and the Netherlands to settle in western Slovakia.Even though the Habans moved on,their skills transferred to local artists,who have continued the production to this day. The products – plates,bowls and cups,as well as more elaborate figurines, etc.– are made from clay and are something between regular porcelain and terracotta.The clay is spun on a potter’s wheel,and then fired in a kiln, as usual.But then a glaze of melted glass is applied that covers the red pottery in a white sheen.Various patterns are then hand-painted onto the white coating,traditionally in greens,blues and yellows.Any red indicates a more expensive product,since the red paint is derived from gold. In Pezinok,one of the most noted producers of majolica ceramics is Renáta Hermyšová,a former employee of a state-owned pottery companywho,in 1989,when she was 20,founded her own company. Hermyšová transformed her house into a small factory and shop to create and sell her wares,now employing more than 10 people to fulfil orders received from across the world,including Japan, where she supplied ceramics to the organisers of the Nagano Olympics. Visitors are invited to take tours around the small factory,where they can see the production methods up close.The processes are intricate and relyvery much on the skills of individual craftsmen and women; there is not a machine in sight.Rather there is a potter’s wheel and some painstaking brushwork involved in each item,before the item is stamped with an “R” and is ready to hit the shelves.In case anyvisitor is sceptical of the skills required to produce such items,there is even the chance to take a spin on the wheel yourself.The apron is very much recommended. Anyone wanting to know more about the lifestyle of the Habans should head to Veľké Leváre,where a house in a former Haban village has been reconstructed in its former style and is now a museum dedicated to the enigmatic community. The Habans were similar in beliefs to the Amish of today and also lived in simple, community-oriented villages.They excelled in the seemingly diverse fields of pottery,irrigation and medicine,with many of their methods credited as the basis for modern practices. Theywere,in turn,harried out of Slovakia by the Catholic Habsburgs, but some descendants remained in the village for several generations,long enough,at least,to be snapped in some terrific photographs showing the entire community posing in the village square, else hard at work. As was typical,the house in Veľké Leváre is long and narrow,with a high, steeply pointed roof,slanting over three floors.The ground level comprises two large rooms,utilised as galleries to showcase authentic Haban clothing,as well as the machinery they used to make it,and lined by several photographs. Upstairs,the long attic-like room is a single dormitory-style bedroom,with several beds arranged in lines.Be aware, however,that at time of writing none of the museum’s signs or information panels were in English,so ask for manual in English. - Howard Swains - A pottery display with a craftsman of ÚĽUV, the Centre For Folk Art Production R25 Modra  27 km (39 min) v 50 min Múzeum slovenskej keramickej plastiky a Galéria Ignáca Bizmayera (Museum of Slovak Ceramics Sculpture and Gallery of Ignác Bizmayer)  Kukučínova 15, Modra Å +421 (0)33 647-2765 www.snm.sk; aMon-Fri 8:30- 16:00 during summer season also Sat 9:00-15:00 €1.5 In addition to exhibition the museum also offers a course in ceramics production. For the course, booking by e-mail (mls@snm.sk) is necessary two weeks before the visit at the least. €60 (all group) Ceramics courses are offered also by Hotel Majolika (www. hotelmajolika.sk). R21 Pezinok  21 km (32 min) v 30 min Keramika Renáta Hermysová (Pottery Renáta Hermysová)  Vinice 3, Pezinok Å +421 (0)908 308-191 www.majolika-r.sk a booking one working day before a visit necessary €20 (groups up to 20 people) Part of the tour is a short interactive workshop of ceramics production. R1 Veľké Leváre  45 km (39 min) v 45 min Habánske múzeum (Haban Museum)  Veľké Leváre Å +421 (0)34 779-4493 www.zahorskemuzeum.sk a Tue and Thu, bookings necessary €0.66 A fujara-player made from majolica

bratislava: outside the city 95 R15 Bernolákovo  18 km (23 min) v 25 min Paintball Bernolákovo  Playground is located near Golf resort between Ivanka pri Dunaji and Bernolákovo. Å +421 (0)910 909-088 www.toppaintball.sk a booking necessary €7 R13 Kráľová pri Senci  37 km (33 min) v 50 min Tourist flights  The aeroplane hangar is located at the end of the village towards Hrubá Borša. Å +421 (0)908 770-702 www.pilotclub.sk a booking is necessary from €50 Parachuting-Vertical Jump  airport Kráľová pri Senci 37 km (31 min) Å +421 (0)905 519-268 www.verticaljump.sk a booking necessary€150 R3 Lozorno  25 km (23 min) v 45 min Shooting range  Lozorno (shooting range located close to the highway in the village Lozorno) Å +421 (0)917 767-213 www.strelnica-lozorno.sk a Mon-Fri 9:00-19:00 Sat-Sun 10:00-19:00 (Booking by e-mail one day before the visit is recommended (shooting.ba@gmail.com)) from €8 Pumping adrenaline with karts, flights and guns If you like the sound of rumbling motors,wind in your hair,watching the ground from way up above or shooting pellets of colour at your friends,then you are in the right place.Bratislava region can provide all manner of ’adrenaline experiences’ only limited by the time you have,the money in your wallet and people you want to take with you. The forests of Bernolákovo provide a perfect spot for paintball.A small river forms a natural border on one side and a rising hill the other.Between them are trees, trenches,barricades,moats and built up towers,patrolled by battalions of men clasping guns,wearing helmets, protective vests and camouflage clothes. “Paintball is not about shooting as much as you can,” said Michal Velčík,a paintball event manager.“That’s Rambo style.The winning team will be the one that communicates better and is more coherent.” There are several different game styles to try.The most common is the team death-match,where the aim is simple: shoot your enemies.But strategy changes in games where the objective is to capture a flag,or in which participants have only 10 pellets in the magazine,forcing them to think wisely when to shoot and when to hold fire. Games require at least eight players (smaller groups should call in advance), and cost €11.7 per person,including equipment hire and an initial 100 pellets.Not bad for something that lasts upwards of three hours. Although tourist flights in Kráľová pri Senci are not officially considered part of the adrenalin sport family,flying about 200 metres above the ground in a light aeroplane constructed for two people will likely get many people’s blood pumping. “Flying is for lunatics who want to see places from above,” said Peter Chromek,a pilot with about 7,000 flight hours, as he gently teased a small airplane out of its hangar.But up in the air,after a quick look at someone like Chromek,who pilots the two-seater plane,any fear is replaced by the exhilaration of flight. The passenger is the boss and can instruct the pilot to fly practically anywhere around the Bratislava region. The only limitation is the fuel in the tank and,again,the money in your pocket. For those who like real guns,the shooting range in Lozorno is an option. The building is in operation all year round with eight shooting boxes for its visitors.“We are offering shooting also for foreigners without a firearms licence,” said Igor Beháň,the owner of the site.“However those visitors are shooting supervised by instructor,” Beháň added. - Peter Nagy - The shooting range in Lozorno Photo: Courtesy of Strelnica Lozorno

Cycling routes www.region-bsk.sk Danubian cycling route 1 (27.2 km) SNP most - Prístavny most - Zimný prístav - Hamuliakovo Danubian cycling route 2 (19.1 km) Berg - Čunovo   Malokarpatská cycling route (45.9 km) Vysoká pri Morave - Zohor - Lozorno - Jablonové - Pernek - Kuchyňa - Rohožník - Sološnica - Plavecké Podhradie - Plavecký Mikuláš Moravian cycling route (68.1 km) Most Lafranconi - Devín - Devínska Nová Ves - Vysoká pri Morave - Záhorska Ves - Suchohrad - Gajary - Malé Leváre - Závod Záhorská route (55.9 km) Devín - Zohor - Láb - Malacky - Gajary - Malé Leváre, Veľké Leváre - Závod Ružinovská radial (13.6 km) Štrkovec lake (Ružinov) - Vrakuňa - Prístavný most - Štrkovec lake (Ružinov) SvätýJur-VysokápriMorave (32.7 km) Svätý Jur - Košarisko - Borinka - Stupava - Vysoká pri Morave Dúbravská radial (7.2 km) SNP most - Botanická záhrada - Líščie údolie - Dúbravka Hamuliakovo - Senec route (37.6 km) Hamuliakovo - Kalinkovo - Dunajská Lužná - Most pri Bratislave - Malinovo - Ivanka pri Dunaji - Bernolákovo - Veľký Biel - Malý Biel - Senec Green Bike Tour (71.9 km) Železná studienka, Rotunda buffet - Malý Slavín - Biely kríž - Pezinská Baba - Limbach - Biely kríž - U Slivu - Kamzík - Železná studienka, Rotunda buffet 96 bratislava: CYCLING Two wheels good: Cycling in and around Bratislava Bratislava is a relatively small city,whose charms can mostly be explored on foot. But this is also one of the most rewarding regions in central Europe in which to hop on two wheels and exercise some pedal power,either on the very fringes of the city centre or slightly further into the surrounding countryside. One popular cycling route along the Danube offers all the luxury one can imagine: an excellent smooth surface divided for both cyclists and roller bladers; numerous refreshment stands dotted along the way.Plus,of course,the appeal of the largest river in Slovakia. It attracts thousands of cyclists every weekend.On the other hand,there are also plenty of routes offering a more peaceful journey,where your only companywill be deer and birds.This is the more tranquil reality of cycling outside of Bratislava,which has much to offer for both recreational and more experienced cyclists.There are more than 100 kilometres of cycling routes in Bratislava,and another 800 kilometres of paths and roads to navigate across the Bratislava region.It’s not bad for an area slightly more than 2,000 km2. Popular routes Of course,it is not easy to choose any one route over another,but three of the best include: “Cycling trip along the Danube”,which leads from Bratislava to Danube Čunovo dam,20 kilometres from the centre of Bratislava; the 37km-long “Along the Morava River” route,starting at the village of Devínska Nová Ves and ending at Vysoká pri Morave; and “To Marianka and Stupava” which also starts at Devínska Nová Ves and describes a 28km-long circle passing through Stupava,Marianka and Záhorská Bystrica. All are detailed on the website of the Bratislava Self-Governing Region (www. region-bsk.sk). While the previous three routes are all suitable for recreational cyclists,a fourth,known as the “Green BikeTour” has been laid out to appeal to more experienced riders and offers a more physically demanding option.It leads from Železná Studienka recreation area, through the rugged terrain of the Small Carpathians,and then to Kamzík hill,a total 34km trip. In the recent past,many Slovak cyclists have done much of their riding in easternAustria,which is close to Bratislava and offers a more advanced cycling infrastructure and,largely, better road surfaces.It can often be the opposite in Slovakia,where many of the paths are undermined by a low quality surface,particularly in Bratislava city, and routes that often do not connect with one another. However,cyclists point out that the Bratislava region offers a greater variety of both terrain and distance from civilisation than easternAustria, in particular in the hills to the north of Bratislava. “I think around Bratislava it doesn’t matter whether you ride a road or touring The Danube embankment offers plenty of cycling opportunities Cycling routes are dotted with refreshment spots Photo: SITA

bratislava: CYCLING 97 Cycling trip along the Danube The route starts at the SNP Bridge (SNP most) and first leads along the Danube to Rusovce, whose neo-gothic mansion and park is regrettably closed to the public. After passing the village of Čunovo, one finds the Čunovo Water Sports Centre at Čunovo Dam, which offers a wide range of sports activities. For those who wish to combine sports and arts there is also the Danubiana Meulensteen Art Museum here. There are a couple of options for routes back to the city. It is possible just to turn around and retrace your steps, but if you press on to Vojka nad Dunajom, there is an hourly ferry connecting the village with Kyselica, on the other side of the river. It is then possible to return to Bratislava along the other bank of the Danube. Bicycle rental Bike Bratislava  Panenská 30 Å +421 (0)948 884-997 www.bikebratislava.sk from €8 Bike Tours & Rental  in the car park under the UFO restaurant Å +421 (0)907 683-112 www.bratislavasightseeing.com from €6 Turistická Informačná Kancelá- ria Devínska Nová Ves  Istrijská 49 Å +421 (0)2 6477-0260 www.tikdnv.sk from €2 bike,whether you are professional or just a person on Saturday ride,everyone will find something that suits them,” said Andrej Daňo,a medical student from Bratislava.“There are hills and there are plains.” Alongthe rivers ortothe hills Back on the most popular route along the Danube,it is not uncommon to experience literal traffic jams of cyclists, especially during spring or summer weekends.But it is easy to see why: the route,which usually takes two and half hours for an average cyclist to navigate, also takes in the castle in Rusovce and the Danubiana MeulensteenArt Museum,as well as wonderful views of the river itself. The many refreshment possibilities are also a bonus.“You can just take one bottle of water which you can refill all the time,or buy a drink somewhere,” Daňo said.“You do not have to take five litres [of liquid] with you.” However,problems may occur when the path is overcrowded, according to Ľuboš Jakubek,a student from Bratislava,who is a regular on the route.“I have seen ambulances there many times,” Jakubek said,referring particularly to the part of the path close to Slovnaft, Bratislava’s oil refinery, where roller-bladers do not have their own lane. Plenty of other routes exist for anyone with a more adventurous spirit. Emília Šišková, a cycling instructor, suggests using the routes in the Carpathians, which are well sign-posted despite being in the rural regions away from the city. Daňo prefers heading along the Danube to the Morava River, especially when he is in the mood to substitute some nature and wild animals for other cyclists. “There are wetlands there,which attract various birds,” he said. “When those fields are flooded it is simply pure romance.” Plans Of course, cycling can have its dangers and Bratislava’s riders are often frustrated that routes do not connect with one another, particularly out of the city, forcing them onto the busy and poorly-surfaced roads,where they can be vulnerable to the whims of ignorant drivers. After every winter, the roads in Bratislava are left in not a good shape, and the number of pot-holes made headlines in the local news. “The first day [I took a ride outside] I got a puncture because of stupid hole and destroyed a new tire-tube,” said Šišková. The cycling lobby in Bratislava will continue to campaign for improvements. Several bike rental spots as well as guided bike tours have been introduced for tourists. In September 2012, the BSK opened a new bridge between Devínska Nová Ves and Schloss Hof for pedestrians and cyclists aimed to improve the connection between Slovak and Austrian cycling routes, and opened a public vote to decide its name. Thanks largely to an online campaign, the public decided that it should be called the “Chuck Norris Bridge”, after the American martial artist and internet hero. Slovak regional officials rejected the results of the poll and called it “Freedom Cycling Bridge”.Actual mayor of Bratislava Ivo Nesrovnal explained that the name was not suitable since: “You can not cross Chuck Norris”. - Roman Cuprik - Devín Castle is a popular destination for cycling tourists

98 bratislava: HIKING 80 Sandberg N page: 37 81 Devín Castle (ruins) N page: 37 84 Železná studienka (Iron Spring)N page: 37 R4 Stupava (Biofarm) N page: 92-93 R5 Pajštún Castle (ruins)  24 km (30 min) uBorinka v 45 min a non-stop free R6 Marianka N page: 62-63 R9 Villa Rustica  the remnants of an ancient Roman building are located on the Veľká lúka meadow between Devínska Nová Ves and Dúbravka u Technické sklo v 20 R18 Svätý Jur N page: 90-91 R23 Pezinská Baba  22.3 km (30 min) R26 Červený Kameň Castle N page: 89 R30 Plavecký hrad (castle ruins) 58.4 km (45 min) uPlavecké Podhradie v 80 min a non-stop free R32 Smolenice Castle  Zámocká 18, Smolenice  80.1 km (59 min) v 90 min Å +421 (0)33 596-3232 €2 www.kcsmolenice.sav.sk a Jul-Aug 10:00-18:00 (entry every hour) R33 Ostrý Kameň Castle (ruins)  72.7 km (58 min) u Buková v 110 min a non-stop free Sakrakopec N page: 64-66 Tourist map see www.turistickamapa.sk Big adventure on offer in the Small Carpathians The bigger the better?Absolutely not.In the case of the countryside surrounding Bratislava,“small” is not only beautiful, it is positively great. The seemingly flat silhouette of the Small Carpathian mountains can easily be overlooked: there are no monumental hills,no deep valleys,no obvious ready-made attractions; just a strip of green somewhere on the horizon.But then you actually take a closer look and the featureless strip suddenly comes alive with the most vivid colours and incredible diversity.Just pick a map and you will discover big treasures hidden in a small package. Names can sometimes be misleading.With their length of approximately 100 km,width of up to 15 km and a maximum altitude of 768 m, the Small Carpathians are definitely not among the biggest mountain ranges.But what makes them so appealing is the rich diversity of attractions they offer. In this relatively small area there are abundant unique flowers and spectacular panoramas.There are serene forests and popular dams; cosyvalleys and rocky hills.You can visit ancient ruins and remote outlook towers,or ride a cable- car.All of this is usually in comfortable walking distance from each other, and connected by a network of well- marked hiking trails.With a map,a few words of advice,or even just a slightly adventurous soul you have endless possibilities at hand.And all right on Bratislava’s doorstep. Hikingtrails Only a few steps from a Bratislava city bus stop,you can completely forget about civilisation.After visiting Devín castle, follow the yellow trail that will lead you through the forests and meadows.After 4 km you will reach Sandberg,which, several thousand years ago,was a seabed and has subsequentlyyielded some rich paleontological finds.Although most eyes will naturally be drawn to the views overAustria – occasionally theAlps are visible on the horizon – do not forget to look around your feet.In spring in particular,the meadows change colour to yellow and violet thanks to several rare plant species,such as pheasant’s eye (Adonis vernalis) and prairie crocus (Pulsatilla). For those in a more meditative mood,you can also reach Marianka (30 min by bus from the Main Bus Station in Bratislava),the oldest Slovak pilgrimage site from where you can delve into deep beech and oak woods.A two-hour stroll will bring you to Biely kríž,an important crossroad of hiking and biking trails, where you’ll find a remarkable bar offering a small range of drinks and snacks,usually a spectacular soup and always an unforgettable atmosphere. From Biely kríž make a short and sombre detour to Sakrakopec,where The Small Carpathians are small only by name A wooden cross and birch trees commemorate an air crash from 1966

bratislava: hiking 99 there is a plantation of 82 birch trees, each of which represents one life lost in what remains the worst air crash in the history of the former Czechoslovakia. You can end your trip in Rača,with numerous public transport possibilities (direct links to the city centre),or descend to Železná studnička.Once best known for its spa,this romantic valley is now a very popular trip destination with comfortable paths and lots of places for barbeques.It is ideal for a leisurely stroll, and there is also a picturesque cable-car from Železná studnička to Kamzík area.During holidays and weekends, a bus service number 43 goes deeper into the forest to Kačín,a clearing with a gamekeeper’s lodge and a cosy pub, Lesanka.You’ll often find tramps playing folk and country songs here. The Small Carpathians offer many more places where you can seemingly enter a totally different world.You can sample fresh sheep cheese,for instance,at the bio-farm Príroda,near Stupava,after a pleasant walk among their domestic animals.Alternatively, you can drink hot chocolate in the intimate atmosphere of the mountain chalet Korennývrch at Pezinská Baba,a mountain pass especially popular with hikers,mountain bikers,skiers and cross-country skiers. Castles inthe hills If you want to submerge yourself in history,visit one of the numerous castles or castle ruins.Pajštún,Plavecký hrad or Ostrý Kameň castles all demand a slightly steeper ascent,but you will be rewarded with spectacular views. Alternatively Biely Kameň or Dračí hrádok require most work from your imagination to picture the original appearance of these ruins. You’ll get a clearer idea of how the places used to look byvisiting Červený Kameň and Smolenický zámok,both of which are excellently preserved and can make a perfect interruption to a hiking trip.Meanwhile,if the 13th century isn’t quite ancient enough for you,then don’t miss Neštich,the site of a former fortified settlement above the village of Svätý Jur,which dates from the 9th century,or Villa Rustica,the remnants of an ancient Roman building on the Veľká lúka meadow between Devínska Nová Ves and Dúbravka.It dates from the 1st centuryAD. Of course,the oldest treasure here is nature - even if it is often strangely overlooked.“Yes,there is no mountain pine here,nor mountain goats and the mountain height does not exceed a three-digit number,but it does not mean that there is nothing interesting here,” says Vladimír Lukačovič,who treats the Small Carpathians as a second home.“I definitely recommend visiting Klokoč in June,when the showy mullein (Verbascum speciosum) is in bloom.” It is possible to spend as much time as you like exploring the region,and for a good full-day hike,follow the blue markers from Plavecké Podhradie to the ruins of Plavecký hrad,then continue through to Báborská hill.From there, head to Klokoč hill,noting the unique flowers,and up to Sedlo Uhliská.From there a red trail will lead you to Vápenná, a rocky hill with a small outlook tower.After approximately six hours walking,a yellow trail will guide you back to Plavecké Podhradie. The Small Carpathians are small from the outside but big from within.Do not hesitate to wake up the adventurous spirit,take a map and go.“The whole Small Carpathians are surrounded byvillages, therefore it is not a big problem if you get lost,” says Lukačovič.“Within an hour or two you can get from the ridge to the closest village.So nothing stands in the way of exploring unknown regions.” - Jitka Parobeková - Ostrý Kameň Castle is one of the popular castle ruins near Bratislava

100 bratislava: beyond the region Out of the region: Day trips Brno (129 km) City, castle, villa: www.brno.cz from CZK300/€11.5 (Tugendhat Villa) P D2 129 km (78 min) v www.cp.sk (90 min) Brno is the second largest city in the Czech Republic and the traditional capital city of Moravia, also known as a wine-producing region.The most important main sights of Brno are the royal castle Špilberk,the cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul and the OldTown Hall.Another important monument is the functionalistTugendhat Villa designed by architect Ludwig Mies van der Rohe which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Lednice (91 km) Mansion: www.zamek-lednice.com from CZK230/€8.3 P D2/E65 91 km (61 min) v www.cp.sk (80 min) Lednice,together with its twin manor of Valtice,was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List as “an exceptional example of the designed landscape that evolved in the Enlightenment”.Lednice contains a neo-gothic palace,a historical greenhouse and the English garden park with a solitary 60-metre minaret,reputedly the tallest outside the Muslim world at the time of its construction. Valtice and its impressive baroque residence host the annual Valtice Wine Market,the largest and most prestigious exhibition of wine in the Czech Republic.The city of Mikulov,with several attractions,is also nearby. Schloss Hof (29 km) Palace: www.schlosshof.at €13 P 61, B9 and B49 29 km (33 min) Just across the Slovak-Austrian border is a magnificent baroque estate,Schloss Hof,consisting of a lordly palace,a terraced garden and an idyllic farm.The estate has been undergoing an extensive authentic renovation to restore the look that it had when it was owned by Empress MariaTheresa.Visitors to Schloss Hof will have insight to everyday life of the imperial family in the 18th century.A new bridge between Devínska Nová Ves and Schloss Hof serving pedestrians and cyclists was opened in September 2012. Carnuntum (24 km) Roman settlement: www.carnuntum.co.at €10 P 61 and B9  24 km (28 mins) You don’t need to travel far to see ancient Roman history.The CarnuntumArchaeological Park in Bad Deutsch-Altenburg offers a fabulous journey back to Roman times in its OpenAir Museum Petronell.Special attractions include numerous reconstructed Roman buildings.About 700 metres from the museum visitors can see one of two ancient amphitheatres. Visitors can also easily reach large public baths situated about 500 metres from the museum. Vienna (79 km) City, mansions: www.vienna.info P D4, A6 and A4 79 km (57 min) v www.cp.sk (60 min) The capital ofAustria is a great destination for one-day trips for visitors interested in history,music and arts or up-scale shopping.The historic citycentrewith St Stephen’s Cathedral,the Hofburg complex, and the Schönbrunn and Belvedere palaces is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.Vienna is also home to many museums,galleries and opera houses.Architecture lovers can view its phases of architectural development with prominent examples of gothic,baroque and art nouveau styles.Those looking for an adrenaline buzz can go to Prater,an amusement park. NeusiedlLake(64km) Lake: www.neusiedler-see.at P D4, A6, A4/E60 64 km (53 min) Lake Neusiedl is the second largest steppe lake in central Europe,shared byAustria and Hungary.The lake is 315 square kilometres but on average is not more than 1.8 metres deep,a factor that made it an escape route from the iron-barbed Soviet satellite. The National Park Neusiedler See - Seewinkel was founded in 1993. The lake is a popular holiday resort favoured by ornithologists,water sports enthusiasts and nature lovers,offering ample opportunities for sailing,windsurfing,fishing, Photo: ČTK Photo: Courtesy of Schloss Hof Photo: Reuters Photo: Courtesy of Carnuntum

bratislava: beyond the region 101 bird watching and cycling. Podersdorf is the biggest and the most popular tourist town within the region known as Seewinkel. Mosonmagyaróvár (41 km) Spa: www.thermal-movar.hu from €7 (salt cave), from €5 (massage), from €10.5 (spa) P E-75/E65  41 km (34 min) Mosonmagyaróvár could be easily called the town of dentists since it has approximately 150 dental offices and 350 practicing dentists – perhaps one of the highest densities of dentists anywhere.Dental tourism has been flourishing here due to very affordable prices.But what draws many tourists to Moson and Magyaróvár,the two parts of this town,is the spa,whose thermal waters are considered one of five best in Europe.There are limited attractions for children. Orechová Potôň (41 km) Race track: www.slovakiaring.sk from €30 P 572  41 km (46 min) Slovakia Ring,which claims to be one of the longest motor racing tracks in Europe,offers a visitor an authentic experience of car racing while improving one’s driving skills. After undergoing a brief safety course visitors can drive their own cars on the track if they are in good technical condition or they can rent a car from the track.The ring offers 12 racing alternatives. Nitra (95 km) City, castle: www.eng.nitra.sk P D1 and R1 95 km (63 min) v www.cp.sk (60-100 min) Nitra,one of the oldest cities in Slovakia,is a perfect day-trip destination: it’s not a big city but it offers many different types of activities.In a single day,you can visit the historic city castle with its cathedral,a surrounding upper town with its churches,seminaries and cobblestone streets and then enjoy the more modern lower town with its shops,bars and cafés.As well there are quick but rewarding hikes in nature and fabulous local wines.Nitra often compares itself to Rome because of the seven hills that surround the city. Komárno (104 km) Fortress: www.komarno.sk €2 P 63 104 km (105 min) v www.cp.sk (120 min) The fortress in Komárno is a stark and magnificent example of military might – a structure of prodigious scale that has been strengthened and enlarged many times during its history.The fortress continued to be used almost to the present day but it is now abandoned.Visitors can walk in and around what feels like a sprawling ghost city.Even the very knowledgeable guides say that some areas remain unexplored. Tunnels with entrances within the fortress may lead all the way under Komárno; no one has yet found out.Reservation for a visit outside regular opening hours is required. Budapest (200 km) City, castles, sites: www.budapest.com P D2, M1 200 km (120 min) vwww.cp.sk (165 min) With its numerous historical sites and easy access from Bratislava,the capital of Hungary,often dubbed as ‘the Paris of the East’,can make an interesting side trip for visitors to the Bratislava region.Along with the famous Chain Bridge,the natural thermal baths,the Royal Palace, the Fisherman’s Bastion and the St Matthias’ Church,Budapest offers a number of museums and galleries, as well as shopping districts and a zoo. Wien (79km) Komárno (104km) Neusiedler See (64km) Sloßhof (29km) Nitra (95km) Mosonmagyaróvár (41km) BRATISLAVA Lednice (91km) Carmuntum CZECH RE P. SLOVAKIA HUNGARY AUSTRIA Brno (129km) Budapest (200km) Photo: Courtesy of Slovakia Ring Photo: Courtesy of HNTO

102 bratislava: TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS slovakia GENERAL INFORMATION Population: 5,397,036 (Slovak Statistics Office,as of 2011); 48.7% men,51.3% women Nationalities: Slovak: 80.7%, Hungarian: 8.5%,Roma: 2% (10% - estimated),other: 1.8% (Czech, German,Ukrainian,Ruthenian, Polish),7% (not specified) Religion: Roman Catholic (62%), Evangelical (5.9%),Greek Catholic (3.8%),Reformed (1.8%),Orthodox (0.9%),other (1.6%),not specified (10.6 %),no religion (13.4%) Capital: Bratislava (pop.420,000) Currency: euro € Language: Slovak (for some Slovak phrases see inside front cover) Business hours: Mon-Fri 9:00- 17:00,bigger shopping centres daily 10:00-21:00 Time zone: GMT/UTC +1 hour GEOGRAPHY Area: 49,035 km2 Borders with neighbouring states: Hungary (679 km),Poland (598 km), the Czech Republic (265 km),Austria (127 km) and Ukraine (98 km) Land use: forest: 41%,arable land: 29%,meadows and pastures: 18%, urban areas: 5%,water: 2%,other agricultural land: 2%,other: 3% (statistics from the Environment Ministry,as of 2012) Highest point: Gerlachovský štít (2,655 m) Longest river: Váh River (403 km) Towns: 136 (settlements with more than 5,000 inhabitants) Major cities: Bratislava (population 411,228),Košice (240,433),Banská Bystrica (80,003). Villages: 2,717 (settlements with fewer than 5,000 inhabitants) Caves: 6,700 (discovered) National parks: 9 - HighTatras, LowTatras,Pieniny,Slovenský raj, Slovenský kras,Malá Fatra,Veľká Fatra,Muránska planina,Poloniny. Castles and castle ruins: 300 SItes ONTHE UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE LIST Cultural -The historic town of Banská Štiavnica and the technical monuments in its vicinity - Bardejov town centre - Spiš Castle and its associated cultural monuments,Levoča - Vlkolínec - Wooden churches Natural - Caves ofAggtelek Karst and Slovak Karst - Primeval Beech Forests of the Carpathians TELECOMMU- NICATIONS It is easy to arrange a SIM card with a Slovak phone number.The biggest mobile operators in Slovakia are: Orange Slovensko,Slovak Telekom,4ka and O2,each with many branches around the country. To place an international call,dial 00,the country code,city code, A DOZEN THINGS TO REMEMBER IN SLOVAKIA 1. Call for a taxi (many taxi firms have English- -speaking staff) or use HOPIN / UBER applications; getting a taxi from a rank can be significantly more expensive. Either way, check if the meter is running and get out if it isn’t. 2. Always punch your ticket on public transport in cities (and make sure you have a ticket before boarding). Fares aren’t high but fines are, and inspectors are merciless. Drivers on municipal buses and trams usually do not sell tickets, but there are plenty of machines and kiosks that do. 3. Please remember that most of museums and galleries are closed on Mondays. Take opening hours with a grain of salt. Major attractions publish their opening hours. Pay particular attention to information on the last admission on the day you want to visit, which might be as much as one hour before the attraction officially closes. 4. Don’t leave your shopping until late. Even in Bratislava, many shops close at Saturday lunchtime and don’t open again untill Monday morning. Exceptions are shopping malls and kiosks near rail/bus stations. Several Tesco hypermarkets are open 24 hours. 5. Don‘t be discouraged if a waiter/shop assistant/ post office clerk scowls at you. They are not singling you out as a foreigner: everyone gets the same treatment. 6. Don’t smoke or drink alcohol in public places. Smoking is prohibited in restaurants, bus stops and shopping malls and can result in a significant fine. 7. Don’t leave your belongings on your car seats. Slovakia is generally a safe country but your belongings may ‘inspire’ an opportunist to break the window of your car and take them. 8. Always have your passport with you. In Slovakia, you must normally produce a passport or ID when checking into a hotel. 9. When visiting someone in their home, take a bottle of wine, a box of chocolates or a bunch of flowers. If flowers, make sure you take an odd number! An even number of flowers is only ever taken to funerals or cemeteries. Slovaks frequently bring flowers to weddings and birthday parties. Everyone wants to shake hands and kiss the person who is celebrating, so be prepared for hand-shaking and kissing lines. 10. Be prepared to say ’No’ several times if you really don’t want extra helpings of food or another shot of slivovica. Slovaks are very hospita- ble and retain the notion that carrying a few extra pounds is healthier than being on the thin side. 11. Bratislava is a state within a state. Most tourists don’t leave the city, which is a shame because the rest of the region is dramatically different. 12. If you have to use the toilet (záchod), make sure you have pocket change. Some restaurants and pubs charge a small fee, usually 20-50 cents, to use it. Men may have to pay extra for toilet paper as well. Belgrade Prague P E IRL GB F CH B NL L D AND N S FIN DK A CZ H IS PL SK EST LT BY RUS UA RO MD BG AL BIH SLO TR CY MK GR SRB M I Copenhagen Moscow Kyiv Warsaw Brussels Lisbon Rome Athens Chisinau Bucharest So a Tirana Vienna Vilnius

bratislava: TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS 103 Average temp.: 9.8°C / 49.6°F Maximum recorded temp.: 38.2°C / 100.8°F (20.7.2007) Minimum recorded temp.: -24.6°C / -12.3°F (7.1.1985) Warmest month (average temp.): July (21.4°C / 70.5°F) Coldest month (average temp.): Jan (-0.3°C / 31.5°F) Temp. below 0°C / 32°F : 88 days (per year) Temp. above 25°C / 77°F: 69 days (per year) Days of snowfall (per year): 38 days Annual precipitation total: 576 mm / 22.7 in and number.Example: to call San Francisco,dial 00 + 01 (country) + 415 (city) + number. General phone numbers: Information 1181; General emergency 112; Police 158; Ambulance 155; Fire 150; Emergency Road Service 18124; Emergency HighwayService 0800 100-007 TRANSPORT For more details about airports, trains,buses and taxis in Bratislava please see the pull out map. the post office At a Slovak Post Office (Slovenská pošta), you can make phone calls and buy phone cards, pay your utility bills, get film developed, buy lottery tickets, and, of course, send mail. Often, the simplest thing to do with outgoing mail (odosielanie listov) is hand it to the person behind the counter; they will stamp it and send it off for you. The main post office in Bratislava at Námestie SNP (close to the historical centre) is open Mon-Fri 7:00-20:00, Sat 7:00-18:00 and Sun 9:00-14:00. MONEY Slovakia’s basic currency unit is the euro (€). When changing money, look for signs saying zmenáreň, or “change”, and steer clear of strangers offering to exchange money on the street. You can get cash from international accounts at an automatic teller machine (ATM), usually marked Bankomat.Travellers’ cheques can be cashed at most banks and some exchange offices. Credit cards are accepted. PUBLIC HOLIDAYS Jan 1 - NewYear’s Eve and Independence Day; Jan 6 - Epiphany; Mar/Apr - Good Friday and Easter Monday; May 1 - Labour Day; May 8 - Victory over Fascism; Jul 5 - Cyril and Methodius Day;Aug 29 - SNP Day; Sep 1 - Constitution Day,Sep 15 - Our Lady of Seven Sorrows; Nov 1 -All Saints’ Day; Nov 17 - Day of Struggle for Democracy; Dec 24-26 - Christmas. SHOPPING Most stores in Slovakia are open from 8:00 to 18:00 Mon-Fri and 8:00- 12:00 on Saturday.Shopping centres typically have opening hours for all shops from 9:00–21:00 during the entire week.SeveralTesco hypermarkets are open non-stop. DRINKING WATER It is safe to drink water from all taps unless there is a warning otherwise. RELIGIOUS SERVICES Jewish service Synagogue on Heydukova Street – Friday evening (before twilight), Saturday morning (usually at 9:00), and during feasts.Services held in Hebrew. Sunday services in foreign languages Roman Catholic Church Church of St John of Matha - 9:00 (Latin) N page 20 St Martin’s Cathedral - 7:45 (German), 9:00 (Latin) N page 24 Church of St Ladislavus - 11:00 (ENG) N page 32 Church of the Merciful Brothers 11:30 (Italian) N page 18 Small Evangelical Church 8:15 (German),9:30 (ENG) Panenská Street (entrance from Lýcejná Street),map C 2; www. bratislavainternationalchurch.org CitylightChurch-10:00(ENG), Námestie1.mája1;mapC2 www.citylightbratislava.com Bratislava International Fellowship -Trnavské mýto 1 (Istropolis); www.bif.sk; 10:30 (ENG) International Baptist Church 10:00 (ENG),Súľovská 2 www.ibcb.baptist.sk 25 20 15 10 5 0 -3 77 68 59 50 41 32 26.6 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 2.4 2 1.6 1.2 0.8 0.4 0 °C °F Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Average monthly temperature Average monthly rainfall inches mm Climate in Bratislava Source: Slovak Hydrometeorological Institute

104 bratislava: TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS / FOOD, accommodation Where to eat Listed in price ranges alphabetically The rating was created based on prices of meals that include a soup and main dish (mostly chicken). Price range: €........................... under €10 €€............................€10-15 €€€.........................€15-20 €€€€....................over €20 Antica Toscana €€€€  Maďarská 27, Bratislava www.anticatoscana.sk Carnevalle €€€€  Hviezdoslavovo námestie 20, Bratislava; www.carnevalle.sk Fou Zoo €€€€  Ševčenkova 34, Bratislava www.fouzoo.sk Hotel Albrecht Restaurant €€€€  Mudroňova 82, Bratislava www.restaurantalbrecht.com/home River Bank Restaurant €€€€  Dvořákovo nábr. 6, Bratislava www.riverbank.sk Hotel Sheraton – Brasserie Anjou €€€€  Eurovea – Pribinova 12, Bratislava www.brasserieanjou.com Hotel Tulip House – Rhapsody €€€€  Štúrova 10, Bratislava www.tuliphousehotel.com Kogo – caffé ristorante €€€€  Hviezdoslavovo námestie 21, Bratislava; www.kogo.sk Liviano €€€€  Biznisuite Technopol, Bratislava www.liviano.sk Savoy Restaurant €€€€  Hviezdoslavovo námestie 3 (Hotel Carlton), Bratislava  +421 (0)2 5939-0400 www.savoyrestaurant.sk UFO watch.taste.groove. €€€€  Most SNP, Bratislava www.redmonkeygroup.com Al Faro €€€ (www.alfaro.sk)  Pribinova 1/B, Bratislava LemonTree & Sky Bar €€€  Hviezdoslavovo nám. 7, Bratislava www.skybar.sk Bistro Soho €€ (www.bistrosoho.sk)  Dunajská 20, Bratislava Bistro St. Germain €€  Rajská 7, Bratislava www.stgermain.sk Bratislavský meštiansky pivovar €€  Dunajská 21, Bratislava www.mestianskypivovar.sk Green Buddha €€  Zelená 4, Bratislava www.greenbuddha.sk Hotel Matyšák – wine restaurant €€  Pražská 15, Bratislava www.hotelmatysak.sk Meštiansky pivovar €€  Dunajská ulica 21, Bratislava  Drevená 8, Bratislava www.mestianskypivovar.sk Modrá hviezda €€  Beblavého 14, Bratislava www.modrahviezda.sk Prašná Bašta €€  Zámočnícka 11, Bratislava www.prasnabasta.sk U Kubistu €€ (www.ukubistu.sk)  Grösslingová 26, Bratislava Zelený Rodrigéz €€  Zámocká 36; map B 3  +421 (0)905 218-569 Zyllinder €€  Hviezdoslavovo nám. 19, Bratislava www.zylinder.sk Verne €  Hviezdoslavovo nám. 18, Bratislava BEST BURGERS BeAbout  Prešernova 4, Bratislava www.beabout.sk €7.99 Minerva  Michalská 3, Bratislava www.restaurant-minerva.eu €3 Regal burger  Palackého 4, Bratislava  Eurovea Galleria, Pribinova 8 www.facebook.com/regalburger €6 FAST FOOD McDonald‘s  Námestie SNP 14, Bratislava  Mon-Thu 7:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 7:00-1:00, Sun 9:00-24:00  Obchodná 58, Bratislava  Mon-Thu 7:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 7:00-2:00, Sun 10:00-24:00  Korzo, Gorkého 1, Bratislava  Mon-Thu 7:00-24:00, Fri 7:00-1:00, Sat 8:00-1:00 Sun 9:00-24:00 Subway  Hodžovo nám. 1/A, Bratislava  Mon-Thu 7:00-22:00, Fri 7:00-3:00, Sat 10:30-3:00, Sun 10:30-22:00  Rajská 1, Bratislava  Mon-Thu 7:00-22:00, Fri 7:00-24:00, Sat 10:00-24:00, Sun 10:00-22:00  Obchodná 27, Bratislava  Mon-Thu 8:00-22:00, Fri 8:00-24:00, Sat 9:00-24:00, Sun 11:00-22:00 Orbis Street Food  Laurinská 7, Bratislava  Tue 11:00-22:00, Wed-Thu 11:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00, Sun-Mon 13:00-22:00 I Love Pizza  Rybárska brána 1, Bratislava  Mon-Thu 11:00-22:00, Fri 11:00-01:00, Sat 10:00-01:00, Sun 10:00-22:00 Many fast food restaurants can be found on Obchodná street Accommodation: hotels, pensions Apollo Hotel; Dulovo nám. 1, map F 2; www.apollohotel.sk Arcadia Hotel; Františkánska 3, map C 3 (c 2); www.arcadia-hotel.sk Art Hotel William; Laurinská 17, map D 3; www.art-hotelwilliam.sk Austria Trend Hotel; Vysoká 2A, map C 2; www.austria-trend.at Botel Gracia; Rázusovo nábrežie, map C 4; www.botelgracia.sk Botel Marina; Nábrežie arm. gen. L. Svobodu, map B 4; www.botelmarina.sk Crowne Plaza Bratislava; Hodžovo námestie 2, map C 2; www.crowne-plaza.sk Falkensteiner Hotel Bratislava; Pilárikova 5, map C 3 (c 1); www.falkensteiner.com/en/hotel/ bratislava Film Hotel; Vysoká 27, map D 2; www.filmhotel.sk Grant Hotel Pressburg; Antolská 2, map F 4; www.hotelpressburg.sk Grand Hotel River Park Dvořákovo nábrežie 6, map A 3 Hotel Akademik; Vazovova 1, map D 1; www.stuba.sk Hotel Albrecht; Mudroňova 82, map A 2; www.hotelalbrecht.com Hotel Antares; Šulekova 15/a, map B 2; www.hotelantares.sk Hotel Arcus; Moskovská 5, map E 2; www.hotelarcus.sk Hotel Avance; Medená 9, map C 4; www.hotelavance.sk Hotel Bratislava; Seberíniho 9, map F 4; www.hotelbratislava.sk Hotel Danubia Gate; Dunajská 26, map D 3; www.hoteldanubiagate.sk Hotel Devín; Riečna 4, map C 4; www.hoteldevin.sk Hotel Mama’s; Chorvátska 2, map E 2; www.hotelmamas.sk Hotel Matyšák; Pražská 15, map C 1; www.hotelmatysak.sk Hotel Mercure; Žabotova 2, map C 1; www.mercure.com Hotel No.16; Partizánska 16a, map A 2; www.hotelno16.sk Hotel Old City; Michalská 2, map C 3 (c 3); www.oldcityhotel.sk Hotel Perugia; Zelená 5, map C 3 (c 3); www.hotelperugia.sk Hotel Saffron; Radlinského 27, map D 2; www.hotelsaffron.sk Hotel Tatra; Nám. 1. mája 5, map C 2; www.hoteltatra.sk Hotely Plus; Bulharská 72, map F 4; www.hotelyplus.sk Ibis Bratislava Centrum; Zámocká 38, map B 3; www.ibis.com Lindner Hotel Gallery Central Metodova 4, map F 1; www.lindnerhotels.com Mamaison Residence; Šulekova 20, map B 2; www.mamaison.com Marrol‘s Boutique Hotel; Tobrucká 4, map D 4; www.hotelmarrols.sk Park Inn Danube; Rybné námestie 1, map C 4; www.parkinn.com/hotel-bratislava Radisson Blu Carlton Hotel; Hviezdosla- vovo nám. 3, map C 4; www.radissonblu.com/hotel-bratislava Sheraton Bratislava Hotel; Pribinova 12, map E 4; www.sheratonbratislava.com Skaritz Hotel & Residence; Michalská 4, map C 3 (c 3); www.skaritz.com Tulip House Boutique Hotel; Štúrova 10, map D 3; www.tuliphousehotel.com Villa Park; Poľná 3, map E 2; www.villa-park.snif.sk Pension Castle Club; Zámocká 13, map B 3; www.zamockypivovar.sk Penzión Grémium; Gorkého 11, map C 3 (c 4); www.penziongremium.sk Penzión Portus; Paulínyho 10, map C 4; www.portus.sk Penzión Virgo B&B; Panenská 14, map C 2; www.penzionvirgo.sk Accommodation: hostels City Hostel; Obchodná 38, map C 3 (c 2); www.cityhostel.sk Downtown Backpacker‘s Hostel; Panenská 31, map C 2; www.backpackers.sk Hostel Blues; Špitálska 2, map D 3; www.hostelblues.sk Hostel Possonium; Šancová 20, map D 1; www.possonium.sk Patio Hostel; Špitálska 35, map D 3; www.patiohostel.com

bratislava: TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS 105 TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE 17 Bratislava Culture and Information Centre  Klobučnícka 2; map C 3 (c 4)  0.16 km (2 min) Å +421 (0)2 5443-3715 www.visitbratislava.com a Apr-Oct 9:00-19:00 off season 9:00-18:00é TOURIST GUIDES Bratislava Tourist Guides Association www.asba.sk Slovak Tourist Guides Association www.touristguides.sk Grančay Martin; www.touristguides.sk Grančay Nóra;  +421 (0)910 939-147 Gubová Dagmar; www.carpatica.sk Jančušková Viera; www.liber.sk LoureiroRoland;+421(0)903 531-388 Michalíková Renáta  +421 (0)917 497-524 Petrovičová Dagmar (Christophorus)  +421 (0)902 230-453 Rapčová Nikola  +421 (0)907 545-095 Vavrinčíková Katarína www.katarinabratislavaguide.com Volek Štefan  +421 (0)907 930-999 Znášik Micha  +421 (0)908 878-195 accommodation N page: 104 COFFEE SHOPS, ICE CREAM N page: 78-79 DISCOUNTS N page: 53 EVENTS N page: 108-109, 76-77, 80-81, extreme SPORTS N page: 68-69 Galleries N page: 50-52 Museums N page: 50-52 Night life N page: 56-57 Parks and Gardens N page: 72-73 Restaurants N page: 104, 74-75, 76-77, 82-83 Souvenirs N page: 108-109 Wine N page: 80-81, 90 TAXI Taxi Taxi Å+421 (0)904 216-321 AA Taxi Euro Å+421 (0)903 807-022 TAXI (unified ride rate) Easy Taxi Å+421 (0)918 555-555 Green Taxi Å+421 (0)905 660-660 HOSPITAL AND PHARMACY Medissimo Hospital and Polyclinic (a private health-care facility) www.medissimo.sk  Tematínska 5/A (near the lake Veľký Draždiak) Hospital and Polyclinic Ružinov  Ružinovská 6 Å +421 (0)2 4823-4113 Hospital and Polyclinic of Ladislav Dérer (Kramáre hospital)  Limbova 5 Å +421 (0)2 5954-1111 Hospital in the Old Town Nemocnica Milosrdní Bratia  Námestie SNP 10; map C 3 (c 1) Å +421 (0)2 5788-7100 Hospital and Polyclinic of St Cyril and St Methodius Petržalka  Antolská 11 Å +421 (0)2 6867-1111 Non-Stop Pharmacy Pharmacy Pokrok www.lekarenpokrok.sk  Račianske Mýto 1; map E 1 WIFI There are a few free WiFi zones across the city: Primaciálne nám. (square), Medická záhrada (garden), Rázusovo and Fajnorovo nábr. (waterfront). You can also get online in buses displaying a WiFi sign. See also: www.wificafespots.com PUBLIC TOILETS 71 Medical Garden N page: 72-73 Building of the Bratislava City Magistrate  Uršulínska Street (historical centre); map C 3 (c 4) Subway under Hodžovo nám. (square) map C 2 65 Garden of the Presidential Palace (near the exit on Banskobystrická Street) N page: 72-73 Some public toilets are not in good condition – especially those which are free; the bus and train stations all have public toilets as well as shopping malls, gas stations, restaurants and pubs (they are mostly paid) SHOPPING Shopping centres N page: 58-59 Grocery stores tend to open from 9:00 to 21:00, but the Tesco hypermarkets in Petržalka and Zlaté Piesky are open 24 hours. A smaller supermarket Hviezda at Námestie 1.mája (map C 2) is also open 24-hour-a-day. Another option is to order your food online at potravinydomov. itesco.sk Tesco hypermarket Lamač (OC Galéria)  Lamačská cesta 1 Tesco hypermarket Petržalka  Panónska cesta 25 Tesco hypermarket Zlaté Piesky (Shopping Palace)  Cesta na Senec 2 Hviezda  Nám. 1. mája 15; map: C 2  0.95 km (12 min) SPORT & WELLNESS Golf courses close to Bratislava Carpatia Golf Club (www.golf-carpatia.sk) Golf Club Elán (www.gcelan.sk) Golf Club Green Resort (www.golfborsa.sk) Golf Club Pegas (www.golflozorno.sk) Black River in Bernolákovo (www.golf.sk) Golf resort in Dunakiliti (www.prgc.sk) White Eurovalley Golf-Park (www.golf.sk) Golem Health Club www.golemclub.sk; The club has several branches in the city, usually located in shopping centres: Tower 115  Pribinova 25 (near Eurovea), map E 4; fitness, group exercises, massages Aupark Shopping Center  Einsteinova 18; fitness, squash, bedminton, group exercises, massages Avion Shopping Park  Ivanská cesta 16; fitness, group exercises, massages Central Bratislava  Metodova 6; map F 1; fitness, group exercises, sauna, massages, swimming pool Hotel Devín www.hoteldevin.sk;  Riečna 4 (in the city centre), map C 4; squash, fitness, wellness, massages NC - Bowling National Centre www.bnc-sk.sk  Turbínova 1 Fanatix www.fanatix.sk  Dunajská 23 (in the city centre), map D 3; squash, fitness Ponteo Activity Park Rusovce www.ponteo.sk bowling, fitness, tenis, squash, wellness, beach volleyball, petanque 88 NTC – National Tennis Centre www.ntc.sk  Príkopova 6; map F 4 tennis, badminton, squash, fitness Swimming pool Pasienky www.starz.sk  Junácka 4 swimming pool, sauna, fitness Outdoor swimming pool Tehelné pole ww.starz.sk  Odbojárov 9 é 7 Spa; wellness N page: 82-83 Aquapark Senec wellness N page: 92-93 Darsana www.darsana.sk  Baštová 7; map C 3 (c 1) ayurvedic massage centre Planet Zen www.planetzen.sk  Gorkého 7; map C 3 (c 4) Asian wellness, massages, sauna CINEMAS Cinema City Large cinemas in the city are operated by Cinema City, and they are all located in shopping centres. www.cinemacity.sk Aupark Shopping Center  Einsteinova 18 Polus City Center  Vajnorská 100 Eurovea Bratislava  Pribinova 8; map E 4 Lumiere www.aic.sk (Slovak only)  Špitálska 4; map D 3 EXHIBITIONS 50 Incheba Expo Bratislava www.incheba.sk  Viedenská cesta 3-7; map B 4 TRAVEL AGENCIES Authentic Slovakia www.authenticslovakia.com Blue Danube Tours; www.bluedanube.sk Bratislava Tourist Service www.bratislava-info.sk C.K. Adrija;  +421 (0)944 232-490 CK Hell; www.ckhell.sk Dowina; www.dowina.sk Flora Tours; www.floratour.sk Go Running Tours Bratislava www.gorunningtoursbratislava.com Luka - Tours www.bratislavasightseeing.com Meetcentives;  +421 (0)2 5920-1711 MS Agency; www.bratislava-guide.sk Paxtravel; www.paxtravel.sk Plus-Tour; www.bratislava-tours.sk Ponte Tour; www.pontetour.sk Satur Travel; www.satur.sk Slovakotourist; www.tryslovakia.com Tour4u; www.tour4u.sk Visit Bratislava  +421 (0)907 538-988 X-cursion www.what-bratislava.sk GUIDE TO PRICES * AT A SUPERMARKET bread €1 – €1.5 milk (0.1l) €0.8 butter (125g) €1.3 yoghurt €0.5 ham (100g) €0.6 mineral water (1.5l) €0.6 soft drinks (2l) €1 – €1.5 fruit juice (1l) €1.5 ready-made pre-packaged meal (to warm-up in microwave) €2.2 Prices of fruit and vegetables depend on the season. * AT A PUB / CAFÉ coffee €1.5 tea €1.5 mineral water / soft drink (0.3l) €1.5 glass of wine €2 large beer (0.5l) €1.5-2 * IN A RESTAURANT Daily menu – usually includes soup as a starter, a main dish, and sometimes also a soft drink or a dessert. Prices range from €4 to €5, in fancier restaurants up to €10. The cheapest places to eat include fast- -food restaurants and Asian-food bistros. A kebab or hamburger in a fast-food stall is around €2.5. A complete dish in an Asian bistro is around €3. PRICES OF SOME MAIN COURSES IN AVERAGE RESTAURANTS: Bryndzové halušky €5 – €7 Goulash with side dish €5.5 Schnitzel with side dish €7 Steak €15 – 25 Pasta €5 – €7 Note: Prices in cafés, pubs and restaurants are slightly higher in the centre of Brati- slava than in the rest of the country.

106 slovak cuisine A BRIEF GUIDETOTHE COUNTRY’S CUISINE Slovakia,unlike France or Italy,may not be on the list of top destinations for those who take pleasure in gastrotourism.Nevertheless,Slovak cuisine,in which sheep-breeding traditions combine with tastes typical of Hungary orAustria,has a surprising amount to offer – particularly if you enjoy meat. MORETHAN JUST DUMPLINGS When asked what the most typical Slovak food is,every Slovak would first answer bryndzové halušky.The gnocchi-like dumplings made of potato dough served with bryndza, a traditional,strong-tasting Slovak sheep’s cheese,originate in the mountainous regions of northern and central Slovakia.It is served in practically every restaurant that offers local cuisine,usually seasoned with fried bacon or fried onions. An alternative,which is better known in several varieties as a Polish traditional dish,is bryndzové pirohy,ravioli-like pasta with a filling made of bryndza and potatoes. Western Slovakia, however,has its own regional speciality: roasted goose accompanied with red cabbbage and lokše,a kind of dry potato pancake (resembling tortillas), smeared with goose fat.Lokše can also be served as a main dish,filled with goose pate,or sweet,filled with poppyseed and jam.Goose as a regional specialty is a tradition shared with Slovakia’s southern neighbour,Hungary,as is that of eating goulash,or guláš in Slovak. Typically eaten with knedľa,a kind of sliced,boiled and steamed dumpling,guláš takes several forms: traditional,spicy maďarský (Hungarian,with beef); segedínsky (creamy,with sour cabbage and pork); or poľovnícky (with venison). Apart from these,there is also kotlíkový guláš,which is more like goulash soup,served with bread. Soups – polievky – generally cannot be absent from a Slovak table.The most frequently served soups are chicken bouillon (slepačí vývar),tomato (paradajková), vegetable (zeleninová) and various cream soups. Faithful to theAustrian tradition,Slovaks are very keen on fried Wiener-schnitzel (vyprážaný rezeň),which is a regular Sunday or festive lunch for many.It usually comes with either mayonnaise potato salad,or with boiled potatoes and pickles. Grilled pork knuckle, or grilované koleno, served with bread, pickled hot pepper known as baraní roh in Slovak, horseradish and mustard, has recently become a very popular food in Slovak restaurants and grill bars too. Vegetarians might find it rather harder to enjoy Slovak cuisine.The most likely dish on offer is vyprážaný syr, or fried cheese, a typical central European dish served with French fries and tartar sauce. Another specialty which is hard to find elsewhere in the world is treska, a mayonnaise-fish salad, available in salad bars or supermarkets. Preparation of bryndzové halušky, a dish consisting of sheep’s cheese and potato dumplings, has become an archetype of traditional Slovak food

slovak cuisine 107 BEER OR KOFOLA? The tradition of wine drinking is not new to Slovaks,especially in the southern part of the country where vineyards constitute a significant part of the cultivated land.And although the tradition of wine tasting has become more popular only recently,there are places,especially along the Small Carpathian andTokaj Wine Route, where it is possible to sip the local vintages. The most popular drink in pubs,however,is beer,or pivo. The most popular Slovak brands include Zlatý Bažant,Corgoň,and Šariš.Czech beer can be found among the selection at pubs.Other locations offer local beers from small breweries for example in Kláštorný pivovar,Zámocký pivovar or Patrónsky pivovar.You can order a small beer (0.3l) or a big one (0.5l). The majority of Slovak pubs offer not only draught beer,but also draught Kofola,a cola-style soft drink,which was developed as an alternative to western competitors in the 1960s. Slovaks and Czechs like to call it the best product of the Cold War. Another such soft drink is Vinea, made from grape juice and available in white,red and pink varieties. Pubs in Slovakia usually offer an interesting selection of small snacks that go well with beer (and encourage further consumption thereof). An evening in a pub offers a chance to taste traditional Slovak cheese too, such as traditional korbáčiky, which are little whips made of spaghetti-shaped cheese, courtesy of the Orava region. Korbáčiky can be found in two versions – natural and smoked. Slovak pubs have also adopted the traditional Czech beer snack, a pickled camembert-style cheese called nakladaný hermelín. If you are not much of a cheese lover,you can go for pagáč, a salty pastry made with pork fat and crackling. SWEETTOOTH? NO PROBLEM Central European countries take pride in their tradition of sweet dishes,which are often served not only as desserts but also as main dishes.That is the case with slivkové gule, dumplings filled with plums seasoned with poppyseed or minced walnuts,but also crepes, or palacinky.Apart from that,Slovaks and Czechs share the tradition of buchty (buns),both baked and steamed, and závin (turnover).Poppyseed is a typical seasoning or filling for these.The traditional desserts includeAustrian strudel (štrúdľa), but in Bratislava there is also the regional specialty bratislavské rožky,a fine,crescent-shaped pastry with a poppyseed or walnut filling and a glossy surface,which already received recognition under the EU’s protected geographical status scheme.Central European cities, from Vienna through Bratislava to Warsaw,are the places to go for those who like creamy cakes and cookies,served to accompany afternoon coffee. PROTECTED TRADITIONAL SLOVAK FOOD PRODUCTS TheEuropeanUnionseekstoprotect thereputationofregionalfoods throughitsProtectedGeographical Status(PGS)framework.Slovakia nowhasatotalof17productswitha final‘registered’status.Registered traditionalSlovakproducts: Bakeryproducts: Skalickýtrdelník(abakeryproduct ofahollow,cylindricalshape); Bratislavskérožky(crescent-shaped pastrywithpoppy-seed orwalnutfilling). Cheeses: Slovenská parenica(asteamed, lightly-smokedcheese woundintotworolls connectedinan‘S’ shape);Slovenskábryndza (anatural,white,mature, spreadablesheep’s cheeseingranularform, manufacturedbymilling alumpofmaturedsheep’s cheeseorbymillinga mixtureofcheeseandlump cow’scheese);Slovenský oštiepok(ahalf-fat,semi- hardcheesecharacterised byitsspecialshape,that ofalargeegg,pineconeor ellipsoidwithdecoration);Ovčí salašníckyúdenýsyr(cheeseproduced fromfreshsheep’smilk,processed andsmokedinshepherd’shuts);Ovčí hrudkovýsyr-salašnícky(produced fromfreshsheep’smilkandderives itscharacteristictasteasaresult ofthetraditionaltechnologyused duringitsfermentationandalsofrom beingshapedbyhandintoalump); Tekovskýsalámovýsyr(natural semi-hard,ripenedfull-fatcheese, intheshapeofacylinder);Oravský korbáčikandZázrivskýkorbáčik(a steamedcheeseproductintheshape ofalittlewhip/korbáčikinSlovak); Zázrivskévojky(steamedcheese product,smokedorunsmoked,inthe formofstrings);Klenoveckýsyrec(a semi-hard,ripenedcheese,smokedor unsmoked,intheformofawheel).. Meat: Liptovská saláma / Liptovský salám and Lovecký salám / Lovecká saláma (a long-life fermented meat products); Spišské párky (a wurst- like product); Špekáčky / Špekačky (wurst-like,heat-processed meat product). Spices: Paprika Žitava / Žitavská paprika (a sweet paprika made by grinding the dried fruits of the Capsicum chilli pepper). - Michaela Terenzani, Jana Liptáková - Bratislavský rožok, a fine, crescent-shaped pastry filled with poppyseed or walnuts

108 SOUVENIRS/EVENTS IN BRATISLAVA TRADITIONAL SOUVENIRS The usual souvenirs,such as fridge magnets,book markers,postcards and calendars with images of Slovakia’s beautiful sights,can be found in many souvenir shops and tourist information offices across the country. But if you are looking for a somewhat less common souvenir to carry home from Slovakia for your family and friends – or yourself – to provide a lasting memory of your trip to central Europe, several possibilities are at hand. Dolls wearing traditional folk costumes are among many tourists’ favourites,as well as various carved-wood objects, such as musical instruments (perhaps a small shepherds’ pipe or a rattle),decorative objects to hang on the wall or several kinds of household tools for daily use (a honey container,decorated wooden spoons,wooden egg-holders or milk glasses). Embroidered or crocheted table cloths and similar products are traditional for Slovakia as well. Dolls made of maize leaves, usually depicting traditional Slovak crafts related to village life and work in the fields,such as a woman brace- wheeling,people raking straw or a woman singing a lullaby to a baby in a cradle,are common. Traditional Slovak pottery, majolika or keramika in Slovak, can be interesting for tourists as well.Several different kinds of traditional pottery are still hand-made in Slovakia: Modra majolica has various traditional patterns hand-painted onto a white coating,traditionally in greens,blues and yellows (www. majolika.sk) whileTrstená keramika brings a combination of a brown glaze with white designs (www. trstenskakeramika.sk). Decorated Easter eggs,called kraslice in Slovak,make a rather fragile but lovely souvenir from Slovakia too.There is no need to worry about the longevity of this gift as the eggs are just shells with their contents blown out through small holes on either side of the egg.A wide variety of techniques are used to decorate the eggs,among them hot-wax painting,straw ornaments Events in Bratislava JanuArY jUnE februArY jULY marcH august aprIl september March: Bratislavský mara- tón (Bratislava Marathon) www.bratislavamarathon.com August: Duodanube, Medzinárodná výstava psov (International Dog Show) www.duodanube.sk January: ITF Slovakiatour www.incheba.sk The most important tourism fair in Slovakia APRIL, September, December: Dobrý trh (Good Market) www.dobrytrh.sk (SK only) Street market (usually on Panenská Street, Jakubovo námestie or in Old Market Hall) offering various goods, farmers’ products, international cuisine, clothing, antiquities and books, as well as various performances and competitions April: Bratislava pre všetkých (Bratislava for Everyone), www.bkis.sk Various cultural events in the city April: Národný beh Devín – Bratislava (National Run Devín – Bratislava) www.devin-bratislava.eu (SK only) Organised run between Devín Castle and the Old Town April: Hory a Mesto (Mountains and the City) www.horyamesto.sk International festival of outdoor activities, including mountaineering and extreme sports. Features films, discussions with mountaineers and demonstrations. June: Bratislava Coronation Ceremony, www.bkis.sk Historical coronation ceremony of the Hungarian kings June–September: Viva Musica Festival www.vivamusica.sk, Open-air concerts of classical music and jazz June: Gurmán Fest Bratislava (Gastronome Fest Bratislava), www.gurmanfestbratislava.sk (SK only) Cooking demonstrations, workshops, competitions and concerts including the chance to taste food prepared by top chefs and sommelier-selected wines June–September: Kultúrne leto (Summer of Culture), www.bkis.sk, Many independent festival projects and many programme cycles featuring artists from Slovakia and around the world at more than 20 sites in Bratislava August/September: Dni majstrov ÚĽUV (Craftsmen Days ÚĽUV), www.uluv.sk/en Festival of traditional crafts and folk production September: Bienále animácie Bratislava (Biennial of Animation Bratislava) www.bib-slovakia.sk International festival of animated films for children JUNE: Musica Sacra, www.choral-music.sk International festival of sacral music

SOUVENIRS/EVENTS IN BRATISLAVA 109 glued to the eggshells, embroidered eggs,or so- called ‘scratched eggs’. Many kinds of traditional souvenirs can be purchased in shops branded as ÚĽUV –The Centre for FolkArt Production (www.uluv.sk). There are numerous souvenir shops in the historical centre,mostly on Hlavné and Hviezdoslavovo Squares as well as at Obchodná and Michalská Streets. If you prefer bringing back some of the tastes of the country rather than its decorative objects,here’s a list of Slovak-made products that could be slipped into your luggage before your return trip: BEVERAGES The favourite soft drinks available in Slovakia are Vinea (a wine-flavoured, carbonated drink,available in white and red versions) and Kofola (a caffeinated cola-like drink with its own characteristic taste). You can purchase both soft drinks in plastic bottles and Kofola is also available in cans. Slovak-made spirits that will be a hit in your home country could be Demänovka,a herbal liqueur in two flavours – bitter (red label) and sweet (green label) – as well as slivovica (plum brandy) and hruškovica (pear brandy).If beer is your preferred option,traditionally- excellent Slovak beers are Zlatý Bažant,Šariš,and Smädný Mních. For wine lovers,the following wineries offer choice Slovak wines: Víno Mrva & Stanko; J.& J.Ostrožovič;Tokaj & Co; Elesko; Chateau Belá; Víno Masaryk; Víno Matyšák; Martin Pomfy – Mavín, Vinosady; and VPS - Vinohradníctvo Pavelka-Sobolič. CHOCOLATESAND SWEETS If you are searching for Slovak- made chocolates and sweets in a supermarket,look for the Figaro brand for various chocolate bars and boxed chocolates,the Deva brand for chocolate bars,boxed chocolates and jelly boxes and the Sedita brand for various biscuits and wafers, including the very popular peanut- cream filled wafers called Horalky or Mila and Kakaové rezy. mAY oCTOber November december April: Bratislavský Autosalón (Bratislava Motorshow) www.incheba.sk The most important motoring event in Slovakia May: Nová drama (New Drama), www.theatre.sk Festival of contemporary drama, including subtitles for non-native speakers November–December: Christmas Days in Bratislava and Traditional Christmas Market www.bkis.sk December: Partyslava - New Year’s Eve Party, www.bkis.sk April/JUNE: GLOBSEC, www.globsec.org Bratislava Global Security Forum Leading security and foreign policy forum in central Europe May: AsparagusDays Asparagusandseasonal delicaciesmadeofit,inatent indowntownBratislava May: Cirkul’art: Festival nového cirkusu (Cirkul’art: The Festival of Contemporary Circus), www.cirkulart.sk Various circus, theatre and street performances, games and competitions May: Bratislavský majáles (Bratislava May Feast), www.bratislavskymajales.sk Festival held on the river bank featuring concerts, thea- tre performances for children and various side events May: Slovak Food Festival, www.slovakfoodfestival.sk (SK only) Known as the Biggest Picnic in the City, the festival offers food tastings, discussions and workshops, and various competitions May: Flóra (Flora), www.incheba.sk Flower exhibition May: Noc múzeí a galérií (Night of Museu- ms and Galleries), www.muzeum.sk Several museums and galleries around Bratislava open into the night October: Medzinárodný festival gregoriánskeho chorálu (International Gregorian Chant Festival) www.choral-music.sk, Biennial event october: Bratislava v pohybe (Bratislava in Movement) www.abp.sk (SK only) International festival of contemporary dance October/November: Bratislavské hudobné slávnosti (Bratislava Music Festival), www.bhsfestival.sk (SK only) Festival of classical music October: Bratislavské jazzové dni (Bratislava Jazz Days), www.bjd.sk Jazz festival with local and international talents November, May: Deň otvorených pivníc (Day of Open Cellars), www.mvc.sk Winemakers in the Small Carpathian region open their doors for a day allowing visitors to taste their wares. Several days are arranged throughout the season. November: Mesiac fotografie (Month of Photography) www.mesiacfotografie.sk (SK only), www.sedf.sk/en, Various sites around Bratislava offer photo exhibitions, including winners from the World Press Photo competition November: International Film Festival www.bratislavaiff.sk November/december: Jeden Svet (One World Slovakia), www.jedensvet.sk/en International documentary film festival Photo: TASR Photo: SITA Photo: SITA Photo: TASR

110 bratislava: index Index A4 56-57 Abeland 92-93, 95, 84-85 Academia Istropolitana 22 Airport 38 Andersen, Hans Christian 64-66 Apollo Bridge 30 Aquapark Senec 92-93, 84-85 Archaeological Museum 50-52 Archbishop’s Summer Palace 33 Arthur Fleischmann Museum 50-52 Aspremont Palace 29 Atlantis Science Centre 84-85 Bernolákovo (paintball, golf) 95 Bibiana (children\'s centre) 84-85 Bibiena, A. Galli 64-66 Biely Kameň (ruins of the castle, hiking) 98-99 Biely kríž (hiking) 98-99 Biofarm 92-93, 84-85 Björnstjerne Björnson (Reduta) 64-66 Blue Church 31, 54-55 Botanical Garden 72-73 Bratislava Castle 26-27, 48-49, 53, 54-55, 64-66, 84-85 Bratislava City Gallery 20, 22, 50-52, 64-66 Bratislava City Museum 16, 50-52 B-S 8, B-S 4 (museum) 60-61 Bunker 60-61 Cafés 78-79 Carlton Hotel 12 Chatam Sófer Memorial 29, 62-63, 64-66 Children 84-85 Children’s Museum 84-85 Church of Clerical Congregation of the Reformed Christian Church 18 Church of Our Lady of the Snows 62-63 Church of St Elisabeth 32 Church of St John of Matha 20, 64-66 Church of St Ladislaus 32 Church of St Stephen 21 Church of the Clarisses 23 Church of the Holy Saviour - Jesuit Church 15 Church of the Merciful Brothers 18 Church of Virgin Mary’s Assumption, Notre Dame 13 Červený Kameň (castle, hiking) 91, 53, 84-85 City walls 22 Clubs 56-57 Coffee 78-79 Communism Coronation 44-45 Corporex farm 92-93 Čumil (statue) 14 Danubiana Meulensteen Art Museum 39, 50-52, 53, 54-55, 70-71 Devín Castle 37, 50-52, 54-55, 60-61, 64-66 Discounts 53 Divoká voda (rafting) 68-69, 70-71 Doľany (wine) 80-81 Dračí hrádok (ruins of the castle, hiking) 98-99 Erdödy Palace 22 Eurovea (river-front district) 30, 53, 54-55, 58-59, 70-71 Events 108-109, 76-77, 80-81 Family 84-85 Franciscan Church of Lord’s Annunciation 19, 44-45 Galleries 50-52 Gerulata (museum) 39, 50-52, 84-85 Grassalkovich, Antun 64-66 Grassalkovich - Presidential Palace 33, 54-55, 64-66, 72-73 Great Evangelical Church 32 Historical Museum 50-52 Hlavné námestie 14, 44-45, 48-49, 108-109 Holy Trinity Church 28 Horský Park (park) 72-73 House of the Good Shepherd (museum) 28 Hrubá Borša (farm) 92-93 Hviezdoslavovo nám. (square) 14, 64-66, 108-109 Incheba (exhibition centre) 105, 108-109 Iron Spring (Železná studienka) 37, 72-73 Jesuit Church 15 Jewish sites 42, 29, 32, 62-63 Jewish Synagogue 32, 64-66 J. Nepomuk Hummel Museum 50-52 Kamenné nám. (square) 31, 43, 60-61 Kamzík (TV tower) 38, 67, 72-73 Kapitulská Street 23 KC Dunaj (Centre of culture) 56-57 Klokoč hill (hiking) 98-99 Kochova záhrada (garden) 74-75 Kostolná pri Dunaji 92-93 Kozia brána (cemetery) 74-75 Kráľová pri Senci (tourist flights) 95 Kuchajda (lake) 72-73, 53 Lacinka-Palacinka 60-61, 53 Lourdes cave (Church of Our Lady of the Snows) 62-63 Lozorno (farm, shooting range) 92-93, 95, 84-85 M. R. Štefánik Airport 39 Main Square (Hlavné nám.) 14, 44-45, 48-49, 108-109 Majestic Music Club 56-57 Malacky (Holy Stairs, golf) 62-63, 105 Malé Karpaty (hiking, cycling) 98-99 Malokarpatská vínna cesta 90-91, 80-81 Malý Dunaj (canoe) 70-71 Manderla’s house 18 Maria Theresa 6-9, 44-45, 46-47, 70-71 Marianka (pilgrimage site) 62-63 Mark Twain Club 70-71, 74-75 Market place (tržnica) 60-61 Medická záhrada (Medical Garden) 54-55, 64-66, 72-73 Michael’s Gate (museum) 20, 48-49, 67 Mirbach Palace (gallery) 20, 50-52 Modra (wine, pottery) 90-91, 80-81, 94 Most Apollo (bridge) 30 Most SNP (bridge) 30, 41-43, 60-61, 67, 70-71, 82-83 Museums 50-52 Museum of Carpathian German Culture 50-52, 64-66 Museum of Clocks 50-52 Museum of Historical Interiors 16, 50-52 Museum of Hungarian Culture in Slovakia 50-52, 64-66 Museum of Jewish Culture 50-52, 53, 64-66 Museum of Pharmacy 50-52 Museum of Trade 50-52 Museum of Transport 50-52, Museum of Viticulture 16, 50-52 Museum of Weapons 50-52 Music Museum 50-52 Námestie slobody (Square of Freedom) 33, 60-61 Napoleonic soldier (statue) 15, 64-66 National Bank of Slovakia 34 National Tenis Centre 105 Nedbalka Gallery 15, 50-52 Night life 56-57 Oasis of the Siberian tiger 92-93 Obchodná ul. (Shopping St.) 32, 108-109 Old Bridge 67 Old Market Hall 18 Old Town Hall (museum) 16, 50-52, 53, 67, 80-81 Ondrej Nepela Arena (hockey stadium) 38 Ostrý Kameň (ruins of the castle, hiking) 98-99 Pajštún (ruins of the castle, hiking) 98-99 Pálffy Palace (gallery) 22, 50-52, 64-66 Palisády 74-75 Petőfi Sándor 64-66 Petržalka (estate housing) 38, 60-61, 64-66 Pezinok (wine, pottery) 90-91, 94, 80-81 Pezinská Baba hill (hiking) 98-99 Plavecké Podhradie 98-99 Plavecký hrad (ruins of the castle, hiking) 98-99 Podhradie (settlement below the castle) 28 Port 70-71 Presidential Garden 72-73 Presidential - Grassalchovich Palace 33, 54-55, 64-66, 72-73 Prešporáčik (Bratislava tourist train) 13 Primate’s Palace (museum) 17, 64-66 Photo: Sue Nagyová

bratislava: index 111 Randal club 56-57 Red Crayfish Pharmacy (museum) 20 Red Rock Castle 91, 53, 84-85 Reduta (Slovak Philharmonic Orchestra) 12, 50-52, 64-66 Restaurants 74-75, 76-77, 82-83 River Park (river-front district) 29, 58-59, 70-71 Rubberneck (statue) 14 Rusovce Manor House 39 Sad Janka Kráľa (park) 72-73 Sandberg (sandstone hill) 37, 74-75 Segner, Johann Andreas 64-66 Senec (aquapark, lake, observatory) 92-93, 84-85 Šenkvice (wine) 80-81 Shopping 58-59 Shopping Street 32, 108-109 Schöner Náci (statue) 14, 46-47 Slavín (memorial and cemetery) 34, 54-55, 60-61, 64-66, 67 Slovak National Gallery 12, 50-52, 53 Slovak National Museum 12, 50-52, 53, 84-85 Slovak National Theatre - Historical building 13, 50-52, 82-83 Slovak National Theatre - New building 30, 50-52 Slovak Philharmonic Orchestra 50-52 Slovak Radio 34, 60-61 Slovenský Grob (goose feast) 98-99 Slovenský rozhlas (Radio) 34, 60-61 Small Carpathian Wine Route 90-91, 80-81 Small Carpathians 98-99 Smolenice (castle, cave, hiking) 98-99 SNP Bridge 30, 41-43, 60-61, 67, 70-71, 82-83 Souvenirs 108-109 Sport 68-69, 105 Square of Freedom 33, 60-61 St Catherine’s Chapel 21 St Martin’s Cathedral 24-25, 44-45, 62-63, 64-66 Starý most (bridge) 67 Stupava (farm) 92-93, 84-85 Subclub (music club) 56-57, 60-61 Svätý Jur (wine, hiking) 90-91 Synagogue 33, 64-66 Tomáš Garrigue Masaryk 64-66 Tourist Information Centre 53, 105 Tržnica (market place) 60-61 TV Tower 38, 67, 72-73 U OčkA 56-57 UFO restaurant 30, 60-61, 67, 70-71, 82-83 University Library 21 Ursuline Church and Convent 19 Vápenná hill (hiking) 98-99 Veľké Leváre (Haban Museum) 94 Veľký Draždiak (lake) 72-73, 74-75, 53 Villa Rustica 98-99 Volkswagen 37, 68-69 Vydrica 28 Wellness 82-83, 84-85, 105 Wine 80-81 YMCA (multi-cultural hub) 56-57, 74-75 Železná studienka 37, 72-73 Zichy Palace (gallery) 22 Zlaté Piesky (lake) 38, 72-73 ZOO 84-85 Zuckermandel (church and museums) 28, 64-66, 53 Galleries Bratislava City Gallery 20, 22, 50-52, 64-66 Danubiana Meulensteen Art Museum 39, 50-52, 53, 54-55, 70-71 Mirbach Palace (gallery) 20, 50-52 Nedbalka Gallery 15, 50-52 Pálffy Palace 22, 50-52, 64-66 Slovak National Gallery 12, 50-52, 53 Zichy Palace 22 Museums Archaeological Museum 50-52 Arthur Fleischmann Museum 50-52 Bratislava Castle 26-27, 48-49, 53, 54-55, 64-66, 84-85 Bratislava City Museum 16, 50-52 B-S 8 Hřbitov 60-61 Bunker 60-61 Devín Castle 37, 50-52, 54-55, 60-61, 64-66 Gerulata 39, 50-52, 84-85 Historical Museum 50-52 House of the Good Shepherd 28 Children’s Museum 84-85 Johann Nepomuk Hummel Museum 50-52 Michael’s Gate 20, 48-49, 67 Museum of Carpathian German Culture 50-52, 64-66 Museum of Clocks 50-52 Museum of Historical Interiors 16, 50-52 Museum of Hungarian Culture in Slovakia 50-52, 64-66 Museum of Jewish Culture 50-52, 53, 64-66 Museum of Pharmacy 50-52 Museum of Trade 50-52 Museum of Transport 50-52 Museum of Viticulture 16, 50-52 Museum of Weapons 50-52 Music Museum 50-52 Old Town Hall 16, 50-52, 53, 67, 80-81 Primate’s Palace 17, 64-66 Red Crayfish Pharmacy 20 Slovak National Museum 12, 50-52, 53, 84-85 Bratislava City Guide The Slovak Spectator www.spectator.sk Publisher: Ján Pallo Editor-in-chief: Michaela Terenzani Editor: Howard Swains Layout: Miroslav Čech, Peter Malatinec, Tatiana Štrauchová Copy editors: Russel Lunday, Raub Murray, James Thomson, Jeff Whiteaker Part of the content was created in cooperation with the Department of Journalism of Comenius University in Bratislava. Contributors and fact checkers: Beata Balogová, Tímea Becková, Ivan Belko, Lucia Beňová, Ján Beracka, Roman Cuprik, Dušan Dudík, Michaela Džomeková, Beata Fojtíková, Michaela Gedaiová, Miroslava Germanová, Kristína Hamárová, Jozef Hámorský, Kristína Krupčíková, Karolína Kučerová, Sanela Kurtek, Filip Lehotský, Jana Liptáková, Karina Miartanová, Radka Minarechová, Peter Nagy, Lukáš Onderčanin, Ján Pallo, Jitka Parobeková, Ján Pestún, Martina Raabová, Lucia Rusnáková, Lenka Sabová, Natália Semianová, Katarína Sirotná, Howard Swains, Michaela Terenzani, Sandra Tordová, Zuzana Vilikovská, Carmen Virágová, Jeff Whiteaker Photos: Tímea Becková, Ivan Belko, Tomáš Benedikovič, Lucia Beňová, Miroslava Cibulková, Roman Cuprik, ČTK, Milan Dávid, Dušan Dudík, Michaela Džomeková, Pavol Funtál, Gaspo Photography, Michaela Gedaiová, Miroslava Germanová, František Halás, Kristína Hamárová, HNTO, Jozef Jakubčo, Martin Janata, Viera Kamenická, Bohuslav Kočtúch, Kristína Krupčíková, Karolína Kučerová, Gabriel Kuchta, Sanela Kurtek, Filip Lehotský, Jana Liptáková, Karina Miartanová, Radka Minarechová, Peter Nagy, Sue Nagyová, Lukáš Onderčanin, Tomáš Pallo, Peter Pallo, Ján Pallo, Jitka Parobeková, Christian Prandl, Martina Raabová, Reuters, Lucia Rusnáková, Lenka Sabová, Natália Semianová, SITA, Tibor Somogyi, Stanislava Smadišová, Ján Svrček, Vladimír Šimíček, Miro Švec, TASR, Carmen Virágová, Courtesy of Action Park, Courtesy of Bratislava Region Tourism, Courtesy of Carnuntum, Courtesy of Danubiana Meulensteen Art Museum, Courtesy of Galéria mesta Bratislavy, Courtesy of Hubert, Courtesy of Lanoland, Courtesy of Múzeum mesta Bratislavy, Courtesy of Schloss Hof, Courtesy of Slovakia Ring, Courtesy of Sme daily, Courtesy of SND, Courtesy of SNG, Courtesy of STaRZ, Courtesy of Strelnica Lozorno Drawings of architectural monuments are the work of the following authors: Bratislava Castle, construction and drawing Bouda a Masár architektonická kancelária, s.r.o. St Martin’s Cathedral, Old Town Hall, Primate’s Palace, are done by Matúš Pniak based on photos by CBS Painted maps (CBS Maľované mapy), Fly media and Fabrico. © 2016 The Rock, s.r.o. Address: The Rock, s.r.o. Lazaretská 12, 811 08 Bratislava.

112 bratislava: STREET FINDER A. Plávku C 1a,2 Alešova F 3 Alžbetínska D 3,4 Americké nám. D,E 2 Anenská D 1 Azovská F 2 B. Němcovej B 1 Banskobystrická C 2 Bartoňova A,B 3 Baštová c 1 Bazová F 2 Beblavého B 3 Belehradská E 1 Belopotockého D 1 Benediktiho D 1 Bernolákova E 1 Beskydská D 1 Bezručova D 3 Biela c 3 Björnsonova D 1 Blumentálska E 1,2 Bohúňova B 1 Bottova F 3 Bradlianska B 2,3 Bratislavský hrad B 3 Broskyňová A 2 Břeclavská B 1 Búdková cesta A 1 Budovateľská E,F 2 Bukureštská C 1 Cintorínska D,E 3 Cukrová D 3; E 2 Cyrilova F 1 Čajkovského C 1 Čelakovského B 3 Červený kríž A 2 Červeňova B 2 Čajakova D 1 Čapkova C 1 Čipkárska F 3 Čmeľovec A 2 Čulenova E 3,4 Dankovského B 3 Daxnerovo nám. F 2 Dobrovičova D 3,4 Dobrovského D 2 Dobšinského D 1 Dohnalova C 1 Dohnányho F 1 Dolná A 1 Donovalova B 2 Dostojevského rad E 3,4 Drevená c 2 Drotárska cesta A 1 Družstevná F 1 Dulovo nám. F 2 Dunajská D,E 3 Dvořákovo nábrežie A 3 Fajnorovo nábr. D 4 Fándlyho A 2 Farská c 3 Fazuľová D 2 Ferienčíkova E 3 Fialkové údolie A 3 Filiálne nádražie E,F 1 Flöglova C 2 Floriánske nám. E 2 Fraňa Kráľa C 1,2 Franc. partizánov B 1 Francisciho D,E 3 Františkánska c 2 Františkánske nám. c 3,4 Gajova D 3 Galandova B 2 Godrova B 2 Gondova D 4 Gorkého D 3; c 4 Grösslingová D,E 3 Grösslingová D,E 3 Gunduličova C 2 Gusevova F 3 Hamuliakova F 3 Havlíčkova B 1 Havrania B,C 1 Haydnova A 1 Heydukova D 3 Hlavatého B 2,3 Hlavné nám. c 4 Hlboká cesta B,C 1 Hodžovo nám. C 2 Holekova C 1 Hollého D 3 Holubyho A,B 2 Hradné údolie A 3 Hummelova A 2 Hurbanovo nám. c 1,2 Hviezdoslavovo nám. C 4; c 4 Chalupkova F 3 Chorvátska E 2 Imricha Karvaša D 2 Inovecká A 3 Jakubovo nám. D,E 3 Janáčkova E 2,3 Jančova A 2 Jánska D 2 Jaskový rad D 1 Javorinská A 2 Jedlíkova c 2 Jelačičova F 1 Jelenia D 1 Jesenského D 3; c 4 Jiskrova E 1 Jozefská C 2 Jurkovského A 2 Justičná E 2 Kalinčiakova F 1 Kamenné nám. D 3 Kapitulská c 3 Kapucínska c 1 Karadžičova E 2,3 Karpatská D 1 Klariská c 1,3 Klemensova D 3 Klobučnícka c 2,4 Kmeťovo nám. E 1 Koceľova F 2 Kolárska D 3 Kollárovo nám. D 2 Komenského nám. c 4 Kominárska E 1 Konventn8 c 1 Koreničova B 3 Košická F 3,4 Kováčska E 1 Kozia B 2,3; C 3 Krakovská B 3 Krátka B 3 Križkova C 1 Krížna E 1,2; F 1 Krmanova A 2 Krupkova D 4 Kukučínova F 1 Kulíškova F 2 Kupeckého F 1 Kúpeľná C 4 Kuzmányho C 2 Kvačalova F 2 Kvetná F 2 Kýčerského D 1 Ľadová D 1 Landererova E,F 4 Laurinská D 3; c 4 Lazaretská D,E 3 Legionárska E 1 Lehotského D 1 Lermontovova C 2 Leškova C 1 Levická F 1 Lichardova B 2 Lodná C 4 Lomonosovova D 3,4 Ľubinská A 2 Lužická E 2 Lýcejná C 2 M. Bela C 2 Majakovského A , B 1 Májkova E 2 Malinová B,C 1 Malý trh E 3 Mariánska D 2,3 Maróthyho B 2 Medená D 3,4 Medzierka A 3 Metodova F 1 Mickiewiczova D 2 Michalská c 1 Mikulášska B 3; c 3 Miletičova F 1 Mišíkova B 2; C 1 Mlynské nivy E,F 3 Mojmírova F 2 Moskovská E 2 Most Apollo E 4 Most SNP B,C 4 Mostová C 4 Mošovského A 2 Moyzesova C 2 Mozartova A 1,2 Mudroňova A 1,2,3; B 3 Murgašova D 1 Múzejná D 4 Myjavská A,B 2 Mýtna D 1,2; E 1 Na Baránku A,B 1 Na brezinách C 2 Na hrebienku A 1,2 Na Slavíne B 1,2 Na stráni A 1 Na štyridsiatku B 2 Na vŕšku c 3 Nábrežie M. R. Štefánika D,E 4 Nábrežie arm. gen. L. Svobodu B 4 Nám. 1. mája C,D 2 Nám. A. Dubčeka B 3 Nám. E. Suchoňa C 3; c 4 Nám. Ľ. Štúra C 4 Nám. M. Benku E 2 Nám. slobody C,D 2 Nám. SNP C 2 Námestie Franza Liszta C 1 Nedbalova c 2,4 Nekrasovova B 1 Niťová F 2 Nitrianska F 2 Novosvetská B 1,2 Obchodná C 3; D 2; c 2 Odborárske nám. E 2 Okánikova C 1 Olejkárska E 4 Oravská F 3 Palackého D 4; D 3 Palárikova D 1 Palisády B 2,3; C 2 Panenská C 2 Panská c 3,4 Páričkova F 3 Partizánska B 2,3 Paulínyho C 4 Pavlovova F 2 Pažického B 1 Pilárikova B 3; c 1 Plátennícka F 3,4 Poľská E 2 Pod Kalváriou B 1 Podhorského B,C 1 Podchod Suché mýto C 2 Podjavorinskej B 2,3 Podjazd c 3 Podtatranského C 2 Poľná E 2 Porubského B 2 Poštová C 2,3; c 2 Povraznícka D 1 Prepoštská c 3 Prešernova D 4 Pri hrad. studni A 2 Pri starej prachárni F 1 Pribinova D,E 4 Primaciálne nám. c 4 Prístavná F 4 Puškinova C 1 Račianske mýto E 1 Radlinského D 2; E 1,2 Radničná c 4 Radvanská A 3 Račianska E 1 Rajská D 3 Rastislavova F 2 Rázusovo nábr. C 4 Revúcka F 2,3 Riečna C 4 Rigeleho C 4 Riznerova A 3 Rubinsteinova A 1,2 Rudnayovo nám. c 3 Rybárska br. c 4 Rybné nám. C 4 Sasinkova E 2 Satinského D 3 Sedlárska c 3 Schillerova B 1 Schody pri starej vodárni B 4 Sienkiewiczova D 3 Skalná B 3 Skladištná E,F 3 Sládkovičova C 2 Slávičie údolie A 2 Slavín B 1 Slepá A 3 Slovanská D 1,2 Smetanova B 3 Smrečianska D 1 Soferove schody B 3 Sokolská C 1 Somolického C 2 Spojná C 2 Stará vinárska B 1,2 Staromestská c 1 Staroturský chodník A 3 Starý most D 4 Strakova C 3; c 3 Strážnická E 2 Strelecká B 3 Strmá cesta A 3 Súťažná F 2 Suché mýto c 1 Súkennícka F 4 Svätoplukova F 2,3 Svoradova B 3 Šafárikovo nám. D 4 Šagátova E 3 Šancová D,E 1 Škarniclova B 3 Školská D 2 Škovránčia D 1 Škultétyho F 1 Šoltésovej E 2 Špitálska D 2,3 Štefánikova C 1,2 Štefanovičova C 1; D 1,2 Štetinova C 2 Štúrova D 3 Šulekova B 2 Šumavská F 1 Tabaková D 1 Tallerova D 3,4 Tekovská F 3 Timravina B 2 Tobrucká D 4 Tolstého C 2 Továrenská E 3 Treskoňova D 3; c 2 Trnavské mýto F 1 Tvarožkova B 3 Tyršovo nábr. C 4 Ul. 29. augusta D 2; E 2,3 Ul. J. Kronera D 1 Urbánkova B 1 Uršulínska c 2,4 Úzka c 3 V záhradách A 2,3 Vajanského nábr. D 4 Valchárska F 3 Vansovej B 2 Vazovova D,E 1 Velehradská F 2 Ventúrska c 3 Veterná c 1 Viedenská cesta B,C 4 Vlčkova B 2; C 1,2 Vodný vrch B 3,4 Votrubova F 4 Vrábeľská F 3 Vrátňanská C 1 Vrchná A 2 Vysoká C,D 2 Wilsonova E 1 Záhradnícka E,F 2 Záhrebská D 1 Zámocká B 3 Zámocké schody B 4 Zámočnícka c 1,2 Zelená c 3 Zochova B 3 Zrínskeho B 2 Žabotova C 1 Železničiarska C,D 1 Žellova F 1 Žiarska A 2 Židovská c 3 Žilinská D 1 Živnostenská D 2 Žižkova A 3 Župné nám. c 1

R1 R11 R21 R30 R2 R12 R22 R32 R3 R13 R23 R33 R4 R14 R24 R5 R15 R16 R8 R28 R9 R19 R29 R10 R20 R31 R26 R27 R25 R18 R17 Dračí hrádok Vápenná Klokoč Ostrý Kameň Malokarpatská vínnacesta Biely kríž Biely kameň Villa rustica R11 Hrubá Borša (farm) pg 92-93 R12 Kostolná pri Dunaji (Siberian tigers) pg 92-93 R13 Kráľová pri Senci (tourist flights) pg 95 R14 Senec (aquapark, lake, observatory) pg 92-93, 84-85 R15 Bernolákovo (paintball, golf) pg 95 R16 Ivanka pri Dunaji R17 Malokarpatská vínna cesta (Small Carpathian Wine Route) pg 90-91, 80-81 R18 Svätý Jur (wine, hiking) pg 90-91 R19 Biely Kameň (castle ruins, hiking) pg 98-99 R20 Slovenský Grob (goose feast) pg 98-99 R21 Pezinok (wine, pottery) pg 90-91, 94, 80-81 R22 Šenkvice (wine) pg 80-81 R23 Pezinská Baba hill (hiking) pg 98-99 R24 Malé Karpaty (the Small Carpathians) (hiking, cycling) pg 98-99 R25 Modra (wine, pottery) pg 90-91, 80-81, 94 R26 Červený Kameň (castle, hiking) pg 91, 53, 84-85 R27 Doľany (wine) pg 80-81 R28 Vápenná hill (hiking) pg 98-99 R29 Plavecké podhradie (castle ruins, hiking) pg 98-99 R30 Plavecký hrad (castle ruins, hiking) pg 98-99 R31 Klokoč hill (hiking) pg 98-99 R32 Smolenice (castle, cave, hiking) pg 98-99 R33 Ostrý Kameň (castle ruins, hiking) pg 98-99 R1 Veľké Leváre (Haban Museum) pg 94 R2 Malacky (Holy Stairs, golf) pg 62-63, 105 R3 Lozorno (farm, shooting range) pg 92-93, 95, 84-85 R4 Stupava (farm) pg 92-93, 84-85 R5 Pajštún (castle ruins, hiking) pg 98-99 R6 Marianka (pilgrimage site) pg 62-63 R7 Dračí hrádok (castle ruins, hiking) pg 98-99 R8 Biely kríž (hiking) pg 98-99 R9 Villa rustica (remnants of an ancient Roman building) pg 98-99 R10 Malý Dunaj (inland waterway, canoe) pg 70-71 0 3.1 6.2 9.3 12.4 mile = 3.1 mile R6 R7

90 81 91 82 92 83 93 84 94 85 95 86 86 96 87 97 88 98 89 99 78 Lourdes cave (Church of Our Lady of the Snows), pg 62-63 79 Horský Park (park), pg 72-73 80a Sandberg (sandstone hill), pg 37, 74-75 80b Volkswagen (car plant), pg 37, 68-69 81 Devín Castle, pg 37, 50-52, 54-55, 60-61, 64-66 82 Botanical Garden, pg 72-73 83 ZOO, pg 84-85 84 Iron Spring (Železná studienka), pg 37, 72-73 85 Kamzík (TV tower), pg 38, 67, 72-73 86 Atlantis Science Centre, pg 84-85 87 Ondrej Nepela Arena (hockey stadium), pg 38 88 National Tenis Centre, pg 105 89 Kuchajda (lake), pg 72-73, 53 90 Zlaté Piesky (lake), pg 39, 72-73 91 M. R. Štefánik Airport, pg 39 92 Divadlo Aréna (theatre) 93 Petržalka (estate housing), pg 32, 60-61, 64-66 94 B-S 8 Hřbitov (museum), pg 60-61 95 Veľký Draždiak (lake) and Hotel Bonbón, pg 72-73, 74-75, 53 96 Gerulata (museum), pg 38, 50-52, 84-85 97 Rusovce Manor House, pg 38 98 Divoká voda (rafting), pg 68-69, 70-71 99 Danubiana Meulensteen Art Museum, pg 38, 50-52, 53, 54-55, 70-71 mile e = 0.9 mile 0 0.6 1.2 1.9 2.5 3.1 mile 80b 80a

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