Spectacular Slovakia - Eastern Slovakia 1

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Bojnice Castle The annual coronation ceremony Hronsek Štiavnické vrchy Banská Bystrica How to use this guide 2 Seven day itinerary 4 Slovakia’sTOP 10 5 History 6 Changing Slovakia 12 Personalities 16 UNESCO 20 Sight by sight Bratislava 26 Bratislava Region 45 Western Slovakia 60 Central Slovakia 96 Northern Slovakia 118 Eastern Slovakia 166 Feature section Castles 200 Slovak art 204 Folklore 209 Gothic architecture 212 Religion 214 Wooden churches 216 Jewish heritage 220 Spas 223 Wine 228 Beer & Spirits 232 Food 234 Agritourism 238 Animal watching 240 Horses 242 Cycling 245 Rafting 249 Hiking 252 Caves 256 Skiing 259 Aqua 262 Best deals 265 Extreme - heights 268 Speed, army 270 Out of the city 272 Luxury 274 Golf 276 Genealogy 280 War 282 Mines, technical monuments 285 Industrial tours 288 Economy 290 Basics for tourists Language (inside front cover) Souvenirs 294 Events 294 Travellers’ needs 300 Restaurants 302 Index (inside back cover) Pull-out map (inside back cover) CONTENTS

Live your own story of Slovakia Top Slovak sights 32 travel feature stories Pull-out map of Slovakia Suggested seven day itinerary Information and contact details for more than 450 tourist spots Drawings of 28 historical monuments 3D aerial drawings of 7 major city centres 17 maps of city centres and major mountains More than 1,000 photos Calendar of events Selection of top hotels and restaurants ISBN 978-80-971719-0-2 The Slovak Spectator Slovak news you can trust since 1995 sPecTAcULAR sLOVAKiA

Eastern Slovakia Eastern Slovakia, with its hilly terrain in the north and lowlands to the south, borders on three countries: Poland, Ukraine and Hungary. The region is perhaps the richest in man-made lakes, with the Zemplínska šírava summer resort near Michalovce, the Veľká Domaša reservoir betweenVranov and Svidník, and the Starina reservoir in the beautiful Bukovské vrchy (Bukovské hills) north of Stakčín. The Ulič valley is the north-easternmost corner of Slovakia and the gateway to one of Slovakia’s best natural attractions: the Poloniny National Park which contains a UNESCOWorld Heritage site, the so-called primaeval beech forests that Slovakia shares with Ukraine. The sunny hills, overlooking the confluence of Bodrog andTisa rivers in the south are an ideal setting for vineyards,Tokaj, which hails from the Lower Zemplín region in the southeastern corner of Slovakia, is the most famous wine from this area. SlovakTokaj, spreading over 907 hectares of seven small villages, is the home to four big winemaking companies and a number of smaller producers. Additional wineries can be found in the southern part of the region. The bulk of Slovakia’s wooden churches are in the northeast of the country. Those located in Bodružal, Hervartov, Ladomirová and Ruská Bystrá have been listed as the UNESCOWorld Heritage sites. Hervatov is the oldest Roman Catholic wooden church in Slovakia. Eastern Slovakia also boasts a number of caves (Domica and the Ochtinská Aragonite caves) inscribed on the UNESCOWorld Natural Heritage List including. For the more adventurous the Krásnohorská Cave offers some real speleological experiences. The capital of eastern Slovakia is Košice, the country’s second largest city, which boasts arguably the finest man-made Gothic construction in the whole country, St Elizabeth’s Cathedral. In 2013, Košice, which also is the home of one of the largest employers in the country, steelmaking giant U.S. Steel, served as the European Capital of Culture. Another notable city is Bardejov, once one of the richest towns in the Hungarian Kingdom, and now listed as a world heritage site by UNESCO. 1 Košice W (city, culture, zoo, railway) pg 168-175, 207, 208, 212, 261, 265-269, 271, 276-277, 206, 216, 239, 244, 247, 251, 275, 280-281 2 Ochtinská aragonitová jaskyňa (cave - UNESCO site) pg 176, 256 3 Brdárka (agritourism) pg 272 4 Slavošovce (tunnel) pg 286-287 5 Štítnik (gothic church) pg 213 6 Rožňava (city) pg 176-177 7 Betliar W (manor house) pg 177 8 Krásna Hôrka (castle) pg 178-179 9 Slovenský kras / Slovak Karst (hiking, caves) pg 180-181, 253 10 Domica W (cave - UNESCO site) pg 180 11 Gombasecká jaskyňa (cave - UNESCO site) pg 180-181 12 Krásnohorská jaskyňa W (cave - UNESCO site) pg 181, 257-258 13 Zádiel (hiking) pg 252-255 14 Štós (spa) pg 225 15 Jasov (monastery, cave - UNESCO site) pg 181-182 15 Jasovská jaskyňa (cave) pg 182 16 Nováčany (bio farm) pg 238 17 Družstevná pri Hornáde (agritourism) pg 272 18 Tokaj W (wine) pg 182-183, 230, 231 19 Trebišov (city) pg 183, 231 20 Michalovce (city) pg 184, 239 21 Vinné (ruins, wine) pg 185, 244, 273 22 Zemplínska šírava (recreation area) pg 185, 263 23 Sobrance (guitar museum) pg 187 24 Tibava (wine) pg 231  page 177 page 180  page 176 S l o v e n s k é r u d o h o r i e 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 39 38 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 166 introduction to eastern slovakia Photo:MichalRengevič Photo:MichalRengevič

 page 189  pages 182-183  page 185  pages 191-194 25 Orechová (wine) pg 231 26 Inovce (wooden church) pg 187 27 Ruská Bystrá W (wooden church - UNESCO site) pg 187, 21 28 Morské oko (lake) pg 187 29 Sninský kameň (hiking) pg 253 30 Poloniny (hiking, primaeval forests - UNESCO site) pg 188 31 Jasenov (castle - ruins) pg 188, 273 32 Humenné (city) pg 188 33 Medzilaborce (gallery) pg 189 34 Svidník (open-air museum, WWII) pg 189, 283 35 Ladomirová W (wooden church - UNESCO site) pg 189, 216-218 36 Bodružal (wooden church - UNESCO site) pg 189-190, 247 37 Vyšný Komárnik (watchtower, WWII) pg 190 38 Bardejov W (city - UNESCO site) pg 191-194, 239 39 Bardejovské Kúpele (spa) pg 190, 224 40 Zborov (castle - ruins) pg 194, 244, 273 41 Frička (wooden church) pg 216-218 42 Krivé (wooden church) pg 216-218 43 Hervartov W (wooden church - UNESCO site) pg 194 44 Čergov (hiking) pg 253 45 Zlá diera (cave) pg 257 46 Šarišský hrad (castle - ruins) pg 273 47 Prešov W (city) pg 195-167, 263, 265, 269, 280, 284 48 Dubník (mine) pg 285-286  pages 168-175  page 231 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 2829 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 48 introduction to eastern slovakia 167

1 Hlavná ulica (Main Street) city map page 169  Hlavná, Košice        Hlavná ulica is the centre of many of Košice’s leading tourist attractions. Anchored by the Eastern Slovak Museum to the north and the St Elizabeth’s Cathedral and the Lower Gate on the south, this one-kilometre long, lens-shaped, pedestrian mall (the longest in Slovakia) follows the central route through mediaeval Košice. At one time the king lived in the middle of this street and the town’s administrative buildings and rich burgher houses lined either side. A stream ran down the middle (and still does) and many of Košice’s boutiques, finer eateries, cafés, artisan shops and tourist sites line each side of the city’s natural focal point. Visitors will discover three parks along Main Street, all with fountains. One focuses on the Immaculata statue erected in 1720-23 to commemorate the town’s victory over the great plague. A second park, between the state theatre and the cathedral, houses the fabulous singing fountain of Košice, a popular people-watching area near the tourism bureau. Košice’s compact town square encapsulates the spirit of this eastern Slovak city and holds a rightful place among the great squares of European cities – busy enough to invigorate yet spacious enough to never seem overwhelming. 2 Dom Umenia (State Philharmonic Orchestra) W city map page 169  Moyzesova 66, Košice  0.8 km / 0.5 mile (9 min) Å+421 (0)55 622-4509  www.sfk.sk Sep-Jun for performances from €8 é WC The Slovak State Philharmonic Košice, a world-class symphony orchestra, currently performs in what was once Košice’s Neolog Synagogue. It’s now called the Dom Umenia (House of Art). This building adjoins the site where the first synagogue in Košice stood 168 eastern slovakia - košice 1 Košice W map H 3  400 km / 249 miles E of Bratislava (270 min)  240,433 i Hlavná 59, Košice Å+421 (0)55 625-8888 www.visitkosice.eu 0.7 km / 0.4 mile E of centre u 0.7 km / 0.4 mile E of centre Q 7 km / 4.3 miles S of centre ¤ May: Košice City Day; June: Gourmet Fest; Cassovia Folkfest; July: Mazal tov!; August: Andy Warhol in the streets of Košice; September: Wine festival; October: International Peace Marathon, Nuit Blanche / White night; December: Christmas markets Often referred to as the capital of eastern Slovakia, Košice offers a rich and unique experience to visitors and residents alike. Melding its Hungarian heritage, its friendly cultural spirit and hip, youthful, can-do attitude, it exudes boldness, excitement and poten- tial. Located on the Hornád River, 20 kilometres (12 miles) from Hungary and 90 kilometres (55 miles) from the Ukrainian border, Košice grew and prospered in part because of its ideal location along the trade route between Hungary’s verdant agricultural plains and Poland’s population centres. Its importance is highlighted by the fact that Košice was one of the first towns in Europe to be granted its own coat of arms, in 1369 by King Louis the Great. During the 20th century the city bounced back and forth between Hungary and Czechoslovakia. Much of greater Košice’s 20th century growth and prosperity and, indeed, architectural style can be traced to the communist era, which began in 1948 and ran through 1989. The city became home to the Východoslovenské Železiarne steelworks, which saw the population swell nearly four-fold to 235,000. Concrete housing blocks sprang up and still dominate the skyline. In 2000, U.S. Steel took over the steelworks and currently serves as the area’s dominant employer, making a significant contribu- tion to the economic stability of Košice. Such stability has encouraged Košice’s entrepreneurs to expand the economic base of the area. Tour- ism flourishes thanks in part to the great number of heritage sites, the thriving wine region to the south, and the varied cultural activities spurred on by the European Capital of Culture designation in 2013. Various historical and cultural strands that make present day Košice the gem of the east are easily walkable from Hlavná ulica (Main Street). From this street the oldest marathon in Europe (and the second oldest in the world), the International Peace Marathon, begins. Every October it attracts thousands of visitors and runners from around the world. There is much to see and experience for the adventuresome and curi- ous in greater Košice. Photo:courtesyofMaratónskyklubKošice

eastern slovakia - košice 169 until the 1960s. Completed in 1927, the Neolog Synagogue building (with a capacity of 1,100), designed by architect Lajos Kozma from Budapest, had a huge elliptical dome with a 21 by 24 metre diameter. The dome, patterned after the Roman Pantheon, makes up part of the central Košice skyline with its red herringbone decoration between the dome’s external ribs. The synagogue ceased to serve its original purpose after World War II. It was then used as a warehouse for corn and later, in the 1950s, it was rebuilt into the House of Art. An important part of the interior is a pipe organ. The top of the dome once was home to a six-pointed star now part of the Holocaust memorial. It has been replaced by a gold-painted lute. 3 Dominikánsky kostol (Dominican Church) city map page 169  Dominikánske námestie 8, Košice  0.4 km / 0.2 mile (4 min) Å+421 (0)55 622-1555 for religious services only U Mon-Sat 6:30, 12:15, 17:30 Sun 7:00, 9:00, 11:00, 17:30 é Located just minutes from the main street, the Dominican Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary is the main feature of a square whose name it shares. It is also the oldest church and oldest preserved edifice in Košice, dating back to the 13th century. The Dominicans arrived in the city around 1250, leaving three centuries later due to a devastating fire in the church and, allegedly, a crisis of Catholic confession. Returning in 1698, they rebuilt the damaged church, originally built in the romanesque and gothic styles, and a neighbouring monastery. They are still active in the city today, despite a period of disruption during the communist era. The interior of the church is mainly in the baroque style, with impressive frescoes on the walls depicting biblical scenes. The instinct upon entering the building is to cast your eyes skyward, where darkened frescoes generously cover the ceiling, giving the illusion that a stormy sky looms overhead. Its 68-metre belfry is higher than that of the St Elzabeth’s Cathedral, which is about 60 metres tall. KOšiCe City Centre 1 Hlavná ulica (street) 2 StatePhilharmonicOrchestra W 3 Dominican Church 4 St Michael’s Church 5 St elizabeth’s Cathedral W 6 Synagogue Zvonárska 7 Synagogue Puškinova W 8 Urban’s tower 9 Košice State theatre W 10 Church of the Holy trinity 11 executioner‘s Bastion 12 Hrnčiarska ulica (street) 13 Kunsthalle W 14 Franciscan Church 15 Slovak technical Museum 16 Košice Gold treasure W Hviezdoslavova Bačíková Zbrojničná Poštová Poštová Mlynská Mlynská Vodná Františkánska Biela Univerzitná Alžbetina Dominikánske nám. Uršulínska Zámočnícka Moyzesova Orlia Tajovského Štefánikova Mäsiarska Hlavná Hlavná Hlavná BaštováHradbová Bočná Mäsiarska Puškinova Hrnčiarska Kováčska Starábaštová Vrátna Vrátna Zvonárska Grešákova Timonova Pribinova Štúrova Štúrova Palackého Roosveltova N Train station 5 min 25 25 25 P 3 1 6 7 2 4 5 1110 13 i 14 15 16 12 9 8 10 9 5 4 1 3 8 i

170 eastern slovakia - košice 5 Dóm sv. Alžbety (St elizabeth’s Cathedral) W city map page 169  Hlavné námestie 3, Košice Å+421 (0)55 622-1555 (the crypt+the stairs) Mon 13:00-17:45 Tue-Sat 9:00-17:45 Sun 13:00-17:45; (the tower) Mon 13:00-19:00 Tue-Thu 9:00-19:00 Fri-Sat 9:00-20:00 Sun 13:00-19:00 U Mon-Sat 6:00, 7:00, 18:00 Sun 6:00, 7:30, 9:00, 10:30, 12:00, 15:00, 18:00 €1 (the crypt); €1.5 (the tower); €1 (the stairs) €5 (all parts + St Michael’s Chapel) é(partly) Dominating the south end of Košice’s main square, St Elizabeth’s Cathedral honours the city’s adopted patron, St Elizabeth of Hungary, patron saint of bakers, homeless, nursing services, tertiaries, widows and young brides. The new cathedral, begun in 1378, was built on the site of the romanesque parish church dedicated to St Michael. Rather than alienate St Michael, a new gothic chapel was built in his honour in the shadow of the cathedral. St Elizabeth’s is a large gothic cathedral, 60 metres long and 36 metres wide, the largest in Slovakia and the leading example of this architectural style in eastern Europe. Featuring the highest dome of any Slovak church, the construction of a Košice skyscraper in recent years was abandoned because it would have been taller than St Elizabeth’s. With room for more than 5,000 worshippers, it took 130 years to build. During this time, construction was halted by various attacks on the city, only to be restarted as hostilities abated. The construction of the ambitious and expensive St Elizabeth’s Cathedral clearly announced to all in the region the bold confidence and prosperity of mediaeval Košice, touting its leadership position among eastern European cities and its favoured status among Hungarian royalty. The investment clearly paid off as Košice assumed centrality in the region. Rather than light and airy like later examples of gothic architecture, the building is imposing and overwhelming. There are two towers, one truncated and the other reaching nearly 60 metres. The public is allowed (and encouraged) to climb the 161 steps and view the entire region from the top. The exterior is all 14th century gothic, complete with dozens of decorative spires and even gargoyles on the roof directing rainwater Main altar with sculpture of the Virgin Mary in the middle the public is allowed to climb the 161 stairs of the northern tower the most impressive northern entrance to the cathedral the northern entrance to the cathedral

eastern slovakia - košice 171 away from the building. Legend has it that one of the gargoyles is a rather unflattering caricature of the builder’s wife. Another legend – there is a keystone hidden someplace which, if removed, would cause the building to collapse, allegedly as an insurance policy guaranteeing the builder would be paid. The northern entrance to the cathedral is most impressive with its engravings of the Last Trial, scenes from the life of St Elizabeth, the Virgin Mary, the Apostle John, and the Calvary. In the middle is a sculpture of St Elizabeth. The interior is even more impressive thanks to the main altar dedicated to St Elizabeth, which places it among the world’s highest quality gothic art. According to art historian Peter Kresánek, it was created by Nikolaus Gerhaert von Leyden and his followers, perhaps by the master himself. It consists of 48 paintings. However visitors cannot see all of them at once as they rotate seasonally. This gothic altar with a double rotating mechanism is one of two in the world (the second is in the French city of Colmar). In the centre of the cathedral is a hanging sculpture of the Immaculata. Other chapels include a late-gothic altar with depictions of the Visitation of the Virgin Mary, a wooden sculpture of the Virgin Mary, fragments of the wall painting the Last Judgement the side altar of St Anthony of Padua, a wall painting The Resurrection, the bronze font, the altar painting of St Anna Metercia, and a gothic Calvary. There is also an impressive carved neo-gothic stone pulpit. Two other highlights of the interior are not to be missed. One is a rare (there are only five) side-by-side carved marble spiral stairway leading up to the royal gallery (where visiting nobles could attend mass without mixing with the common folk) offering a hawk eye’s view of the cathedral’s central nave. One arm of the stairs continues up to the space where it is believed the relic of Christ’s blood used to be preserved. The stairway, often called a lovers stair because it offers several meeting points along the way, is open to the public. Ask for a key at the shop next to the church entrance. The second highlight is the crypt where the remains of Francis II Rákóczi were moved in 1906. Rákóczi, a leader of the last anti-Habsburg uprising, was a much revered hero to the citizens of Košice. 4 Kostol Sv. Michala (St Michael’s Church) city map page 169  Hlavné námestie 4, Košice Å+421 (0)55 622-1555  Mon 13:00-18:00 Tue-Sat 9:00-18:00 Sun 13:00-18:00 U Tue 15:00 Thu 15:00 Sun 9:30, 11:00 (in English) €1.5 é When construction on the massive St Elizabeth’s Cathedral was started in 1378, another building project, a small chapel dedicated to St Michael, was already complete. This architectural gem is a much better example of gothic architecture than its neighbour, no doubt because it was built so much more quickly, between 1350 and 1370. Serving originally as a cemetery chapel, its lower part was an ossuary, housing bones uncovered in the old cemetery, and its upper part a site for requiems. On its altar is a sculpture of St Michael the Archangel battling Satan depicted as a dragon. In 2006, the award- winning reconstruction received reclassification as a full-on church. This was acknowledging that St Michael’s served as a church for minorities from the 17th century to the early 20th century while the cathedral was reserved for the Hungarian-speaking population, which at that time was the majority in the city. Central part of the cathedral with carved neo-gothic stone pulpit entrance to the northern tower the church is accessable from the west

172 eastern slovakia - košice 6 Synagóga Zvonárska (synagogue) city map page 169  Zvonárska 5, Košice 0.6 km / 0.4 mile (6 min) Å+421 (0)55 625-9059 for interior booking necessary During the 1840s, after Jews were allowed to live within the city walls, a compound emerged along Zvonárska (Bellmakers) Street consisting of a Mikvah (ritual bath), offices of the Jewish community and rabbinate, and a kosher cafeteria. The Orthodox synagogue was extended and rebuilt in the so-called Rundbogenstil (round-arch style) into its current form in 1899. It has recently undergone an excellent exterior reconstruction, but the interior, after it was no longer used for religious ceremonies, was used as storage for a scientific library and was neglected for years. It is still awaiting reconstruction. Still, a glimmer of its original design is apparent. Today’s visitors can see walls covered with wall paintings featuring geometric and Moorish patterns and the original ark and basin on the rear wall. The altar is crumbling, as are the cast-iron supports of the women’s gallery encircling the main floor. The place serves for temporary exhibitions, but plans to use the space as a memorial museum of eastern Slovak Jewish communities are in the works. The compound still serves as the centre of Jewish communal life in Košice. 7 Synagóga Puškinova (synagogue) W city map page 169  Puškinova 3, Košice 0.7 km / 0.4 mile (8 min) Å+421 (0)55 625-9059  booking necessary group admission Mon-Fri €10, Sun €15 In the 1920s, Košice was home to a large, vibrant Jewish community. About half the community consisted of Orthodox Jews who, in 1927 with the aid of prominent Christian Košice architect Lajos Oelschläger, built a Jewish school and an Orthodox synagogue on Puškinova street in the heart of historic Košice. The building is rectangular, 25 by 35 metres, and seats 800. The main entrance is situated on the western side away from the street and the impressive public façade with its grand staircase and triple arched monumental protrusion. The synagogue is topped by a dome supported by four pillars. Incorporating oriental architecture with elements of cubism, the synagogue displays a bronze Holocaust memorial plaque announcing that 12,000 Jews were transported to concentration camps in 1944. Nearly 2,000 Jews were housed in the synagogue for three months awaiting transport to Auschwitz-Birkenau. Their pencil-written comments can be seen on the walls of the recently reconstructed interior. The synagogue is one of the few still serving its original purpose in Slovakia. 8 Urbanova veža (Urban’s tower) city map page 169  Hlavné námestie 2, Košice Å+421 (0)55 623-2534  www.vsmuzeum.sk Tue-Sun 9:00-16:30 €3 WC Built as a belfry for St Elizabeth’s Cathedral during the 14th century, St Urban’sTower is a much-revered feature in the Košice skyline. Named after the patron saint of winegrowers, the tower overcame a devastating fire in 1556. The bell ringer, a Quasimodo-esque character, according to an urban (pun intended) legend, discovered the fire and heroically continued to ring the bell to warn city residents, perishing in his efforts. The gothic-style tower has undergone several facelifts, most often having its roof rebuilt. In the 20th century, mediaeval and Renaissance tombstones from St Elizabeth’s Cathedral were set in the tower’s walls and a neo-renaissance corridor was attached. A second fire in 1966 damaged the Urban bell cast in 1557 from material from the older gothic bell destroyed by the fire in 1556. The bell now lies reconstructed next to the tower. A new seven-tonne bell was donated by the workers of the local steel plant. The tower houses Slovakia’s only wax museum, presenting well- known personalities linked with the history of Košice and Slovakia.

eastern slovakia - košice 173 9 štátne divadlo Košice (Košice State theatre) W city map page 169  Hlavné námestie 1, Košice  0.2 km / 0.1 mile (3 min) Å+421 (0)55 245- 2200   www.sdke.sk  Sep-Jun for performances from €3 éWC Walking from the north end of Košice’s Main Street, the first large building set in the centre of the pedestrian mall is the State Theatre. The current opera house replaced an earlier theatre structure (there has been an active theatre on this site since 1755) and opened its doors in 1899. The building is an eclectic style with elements of neo-baroque and secession. It was designed by the architect Adolf Láng, one of the most talented European architects of the 19th century. While the exterior is imposing, dominating the centre of the square, the recently renovated interior is a classic European opera/ballet house. The stunning recreated chandelier (identical to the original) hangs above the lyre- shaped stage and four balcony galleries with facings trimmed in gilded plaster. It illuminates a ceiling painted with scenes from four of Shakespeare’s plays. The front of the house features two original marble staircases flanking either side of the elegant lobby. The Košice State Theatre also performs plays in the nearby art deco Malá Scéna building, reopened in 2013 (Hlavná 76). Much smaller than the opera theatre, the small stage and auditorium offer an intimate theatrical experience. 10 Kostol najsvätejšej trojice (Church of the Holy trinity) city map page 169  Hlavná 67/A, Košice  0.2 km / 0.14 mile (3 min) Å+421 (0)55 466- 8100for religious services only UMon-Wed, Sat 7:00 (HU), 18:30 Thu-Fri 17:00, 18:30 Sun 8:30, 10:00, 16:00, 20:00 voluntaryé The University Church, or the Church of the HolyTrinity, is one of the most decoratively styled churches in the city. Inspired by the baroque Church of the Gesù in Rome and completed in 1681, it was originally built by the Jesuits before being taken over by the Premonstratensians in 1811. They still use the church today. The church owes its name, the University Church, to the first university in Košice which was built next door in the 17th century. Simple from the outside, the walls are built from solid block stones, but this belies a vibrant interior that makes an immediate impression with frescoes by Košice painter Erazmus Schrött. Covering every centimetre of the building’s interior, these frescoes depict scenes linked with the founder of the Premonstratensians. Both sides of the church include three chapels, each with its own altar and benches. Differing from the city’s other churches, this site offers church-goers a space for personal worship and reflection, and each alcove altar is embellished with its own decorative markers. 11 Katova bašta, rodošto (executioner’s Bastion and rodoshto) city map page 169  Hrnčiarska 7, Košice  0.4 km / 0.2 mile (4 min) Å+421 (0)55 622-2856  www.vsmuzeum.sk  Tue-Sat 9:00-17:00, Sun 13:00-17:00 (exterior open also on Mon 9:00-17:00) free (exterior), €3 Rodoshto  WC é- only bastion Named for its proximity to the dreaded mediaeval torture chamber, the largest of the defensive bastions on the Košice city wall (built in the late 15th century) was rebuilt and enlarged many times as modern weaponry shifted from siege engines to gunpowder. Once the site of the city’s east gate, known as the Painted Gate, the structure provides the sole remaining evidence of the extensive fortification system that allowed Košice to flourish in the Middle Ages. In 1906, the bastion was selected as the site for a memorial to Košice’s great hero Francis II Rákóczi (1676-1735), buried in St Elizabeth’s Cathedral. In addition to an imposing statue of the anti-Habsburg champion beloved by Hungarian-era Košicians, a replica of his exile home inTerikdag,Turkey, known as Rodoshto in Hungarian, furnished with many Rákóczi artifacts, perches atop a corner of the bastion. The museum and fortifications also house mediaeval weaponry. An outdoor theatre and a reception area complete the site.

174 eastern slovakia - košice 12 Hrnčiarska ulica (Hrnčiarska Street) city map page 169  Hrnčiarska, Košice  0.4 km / 0.2 mile (4 min) Å+421 (0)55 622-2856   www.hrnciarska.sk free    é WC On Hrnčiarska street, the individual crafts shops sell eclectic goodies, including antique oversized gallows and handmade jewelry. Although the street market occurs just a few times a year – mostly in the summer months – the shops are open throughout the year and periodically host events and workshops for those wishing to learn an artistic or historical trade. Clearly cherishing the natural and the imaginative, the street is also home to organic and alternative restaurants and cafés. With its period paving and small houses, this is one of the most romantic streets in Košice. The street, which was named after a potter’s shop, underwent an extensive reconstruction in 2012 and 2013 as part of the Košice European Capital of Culture project. 13 Hala umenia Košice (Kunsthalle) W city map page 169  Rumanova 1, Košice  0.7 km / 0.4 mile (8 min) Å +421 (0)907 214-802  www.k13.sk  Tue-Sun 11:00-18:00 from €1 (depends on performance) éWC This onetime dilapidated building housing a swimming pool is now a place for culture. The building was built between 1957-1962, based on Ladislav Greč’s design. Decoration was provided by Helena Ondrušová-Viktorínová. The roofed part of the swimming pool complex had to be closed in 1992. In its time it was one of the most beautiful architectural buildings in Czechoslovakia and its timeless architecture remains unique even today. Its original appearance is nearly entirely preserved and only the most damaged areas were demolished and replaced. A typical swimming mosaic has been maintained and the area where the pool once was is now used for art exhibitions, workshops, public discussions with artists and gala contemporary art openings. 14 Františkánsky kostol (Franciscan Church) city map page 169  Hlavná ulica 81, Košice  1 km / 0.6 mile (12min) 30 minutes prior to religious services U Mon–Sat 12:00, 16:30 Sun 7:15, 9:30, 11:00, 16:30 The former Franciscan Church, or the Church of St Anthony of Padua, is located on Košice’s Main Street and is the second oldest church in the city. It dates back to the 14th century. The church’s history singles it out as one of the most multi-purpose religious sites in Košice. Originally built as a church, the site also served as a weapons and food storage facility, army barracks, and a makeshift cathedral, before returning to its original purpose. The inside of this originally gothic church features a mixture of baroque and gothic architecture, the former the handwork of architect Thomas Tornyossy. Of particular interest is the main baldachin-type baroque altar and the tombstone of Field- Marshal Jozef František Renaud of 1740, the work of baroque sculptor Georg Rafael Donner. 15 Slovenské technické múzeum (Slovak technical Museum) city map page 169  Hlavná 88, Košice  0.5 km / 0.3 mile (5 min) Å+421 (0)55 622-4035  www.stm-ke.sk Tue-Fri 9:00-17:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-17:00 (planetarium booking necessary) from €2  é(only planetarium) WC As its name implies, the Slovak Technical Museum’s main branch in Košice encompasses all things technical with an emphasis on the history and significant personalities of metallurgy, mechanical engineering, surveying and cartography. The museum’s cavernous rooms house more than 16,000 exhibition items, most explained in Slovak with some English translations available. There is also a remarkable and exhaustive collection of historical communications apparatuses (typewriters, telephones, telegraph machines) on the second floor. A planetarium makes it possible for visitors and local school children to view the heavens. This museum is particularly kid-friendly with lots of simple and engaging hands-on physics experiments in a special section. Although the experiments are written in Slovak, non-Slovak children can figure out how they work. 16 Košický zlatý poklad (Košice Gold treasure) W city map page 169  Námestie Maratónu mieru 2, Košice  0.8 km / 0.5 mile (9 min) Å+421 (0)55 622-0309 www.vsmuzeum.sk  Tue-Sat 9:00- 17:00, Sun 13:00-17:00 from €3 éWC You never know what you will find when you start remodelling: at least that was the experience of a group of Czechoslovak workers on August 24, 1935. They were digging in the cellar of the old financial directorate’s building on the historic Main Street in Košice when they found 2,920 gold coins, three gold medals and a Renaissance gold chain in an engraved copper casket. This discovery, weighing 11.5

eastern slovakia - košice 175 kilograms, was one of the largest coin finds in European history and the extensive scope of types and geographic origin of the coins ranks the Košice Gold Treasure among the artistic gems of Europe. It is speculated that the treasure was hidden between 1679 and 1682 during one of the anti- Habsburg uprisings led by Imre Thököly. Since it was such an enormous sum for that time, it is suspected that its owner was probably a high-ranking official of the Spiš Chamber. The Košice Gold Treasure was returned to Košice in 2013 after the premises of the Eastern Slovak Museum, adapted for its exhibition, underwent reconstruction. 17 Kasárne/Kulturpark (Barracks/Kulturpark)  Kukučínova 2, Košice  0.9 km / 0.6 mile (11 min) Å+421 (0)908 965-287    www.k13.sk  Mon-Sun free (depends on performance)  é WC The Barracks/Kulturpark is the magnum opus of the Košice European Capital of Culture project from 2013, and is the result of a dramatic transformation of former military barracks from the 19th century. The biggest investment – €26 million – of the culture capital project, the Kulturpark was inaugurated in 2013 and is a modern cultural institution, offering a platform for the performance or presentation of a variety of different art forms. Ranging from contemporary music, art, literature, theatre and dance, the complex itself is made up of three main buildings separated by vast spaces filled with eccentric seating designs. The premise of the project was to make the arts as accessible as possible for all ages and artistic backgrounds. With more than 15 different art spaces in Košice, the new culture park is set to foster a new generation of home-grown artists and innovators. 18 Botanická záhrada (Botanical garden) W Mánesova23,Košice2.4km/ 1.5 miles (30 min) 3 km / 2 miles (9 min) Botanická záhra- da (No. 7, 12, 18, 55) Å+421 (0)55 234-1667 www.upjs.sk/pracoviska/botanicka-zahrada  9:00-15:00 €2 éWC  90 min Košice’s botanical garden, which opened in 1950, is located just outside the city centre on the grounds of a university. Its grounds and greenhouses host numerous plant species, and while the outside is bare during the winter months, the greenhouses thrive throughout the year. Home to over 4,000 species of plants, even those with no horticultural background can be happily occupied in the complex. From rooms dedicated to different cacti species, to rows of sumptuous citrus fruits, the greenhouses take no notice of the seasons outside. In the greenhouses, the humid temperature and exotic foliage will give visitors a taste of the rain forest. There are plants originating from Indonesia to Argentina, allowing guests to truly feel transported. The smaller areas off the main greenhouse are highly recommended, and the plants vary room to room, including countless bonsai trees and carnivorous plants. 19 Čermeľ  Čermeľ, Košice  4 km / 2.5 miles (9 min) NW of Košice Čermeľ (No. 14) Detská železnica (Children’s railway) Å+421 (0)905 496-426 May-Jun: Sat-Sun 9:15- 18:00, Jul-Aug: Tue-Sun 9:15-16:30  Sat-Sun 9:15-16:30 from €3 (children from €1) The Čermeľ valley can be found en route to Bankov, residential area, and in addition to its walking routes, is best known for its children’s railway and the Alpinka recreation grounds. The three different colours marked on trees and maps lead to different destinations, and the red walk, arguably the most interesting of the trio, traces the journey traipsed by the heroes of the Slovak National Uprising (SNP). The Čermeľ valley is also a starting point of the St James’ pilgrimage route. Slovakia’s stretch of the popular route was launched in 2013 and leads from Čermeľ-Košice to Levoča. In total, to reach the city of Compostela pilgrims need to walk more than 3,100 kilometres. Apart from walking, the valley also attracts visitors for its rock climbing area and its narrow- gauge railway with Katka, the Steam Engine, partly operated by children. Using historical carriages and reportedly the oldest operating steam locomotive in the region, the railway attracts families to the region throughout the year.

176 eastern slovakia 2 ochtinsKá aragonitovájasKyňa (OchtinskáAragoniteCave) map G 4 93 km / 57.7 miles (90 min) SW of Košice Gočaltovo, Hrádok (1.5 km / 0.9 mile SW of the cave)  The cave’s entrance is about 300 metres from the car park Å+421 (0)58 488-5152 www.ssj.sk Apr-May, Sep-Oct: Tue-Sun 9:30-14:00 (entrance every 90 min); Jun-Aug 9:30-16:00 (entrance every hour) €6 WC Rich white formations make the Ochtinská Aragonite Cave unique not only in Slovakia but also in the world. The formations are from aragonite, a white/brown calcium carbonate material formed only under specific chemical and climatic conditions in a closed underground space. There are three types of aragonite formations in the cave: kidney-shaped, needle-shaped and spiral and small fans.Together they create amazing shapes resembling flowers and hedgehogs, while some needles and spirals defy gravity. One of the most beautiful parts of the cave is the Milky Way Dome, on the ceiling of which aragonite needles have created small stars shining in the light of the lamps. Be careful when visiting the cave, as your efforts to absorb as much of the beauty as possible may give you a crick in your neck. The cave was discovered by chance in 1954 by a geological expedition. Its total length is 585 metres.To get to the cave, take the road from Štítnik to the town of Jelšava. The cave is on UNESCO’s World Culture and Natural Heritage list. 3 BrdárKa(agritourism)  page 272 4 slavošovce (tunnel)  page 286 5 štítniK (church)  page 213 6 rožňava map G 4  68 km / 42 miles (55 min) SW of Ko- šice  19,706 i Námestie baníkov 32, Rožňava Å+421 (0)58 732-8101 www.ticroznava.sk  0.4 km / 0.2 mile SE of centre u 1.5 km / 0.9 mile SW of centre ¤ May: Kaltenecker Starfest (beer festival); September: Tempus Art (international festival of alternative theatres); October: Kaltenecker October fest (beer festival) Banícke múzeum (Mining Museum)  Šafárikova 43, Rožňava Å+421 (0)58 734-4098  www.banmuz.sk  Mon-Fri 8:00-12:00, 13:00-16:00 Sat-Sun booking necessary  €3.50  WC  60 min Katedrála nanebovzatia Panny Márie (CathedraloftheAssumptionoftheVirginMary)  Betliarska 3, Rožňava Å+421 (0)58 732-8101  Mon-Sun booking necessary U Mon-Fri 18:00 Sat 8:00 Sun 7:00 (HU), 10:00, 18:00 €2  30 min Strážna veža (Watchtower)  Námestie baníkov 32, Rožňava Å +421 (0)58 732-8101 (i) Mon-Sun booking necessary €2  30 min The 19th century poet Sándor Petőfi described Rožňava, the administrative capital of the Gemer region, as lying in the valley “like a coin in a beggar’s hat”. While there’s an obvious political statement behind the simile, it is also possible to take Petőfi’s observation on a purely aesthetic level. This town of 19,000 people with an affluent mining history sits between two national parks (Slovenský kras and Slovenský raj) and is at the centre of criss-crossing valleys with hills capped by dense forest. It is a rare speck of gold surrounded by acres of undulating barrenness. These days, Rožňava is a small, quiet town centred on quite a rarity in Slovak town planning: a square that is actually square. In the centre of this regular polygon is the 36-metre- high Renaissance watchtower, originally erected in 1654 as Ottoman invaders swept across the region, they deposited one of their cannonballs in the walls of the tower which is still visible today. In more peaceful times, the tower’s clock was also known as one of the most accurate in the Hungarian Kingdom, drawing visitors to the marketplace to check their own time-pieces, much to the obvious delight of the traders, who occupied an arcade of shops at the tower’s foot. Present-day visitors can climb 27 metres and 140 steps to a viewing balcony and survey the town, noting gothic, Renaissance, baroque and classicist architecture in the immediate vicinity – although communist predictably dominates the wider landscape. Originally, the town grew to prominence because of its mines and a quaint museum just outside the centre recalls this side of Rožňava’s history. Gold, silver and iron was hauled out of the nearby hills during the early middle ages and the town had its own mint. However, activities slowed during the 16th century and Rožňava reinvented itself as a centre of academia and crafts. It became a bishopric in 1776 and the gold- coloured palace, completed two years later on the north side of the square, is still home to the current bishop of Gemer. Other buildings of note around the square include the Black Eagle Hotel (Hotel Čierny Orol), the last remaining gothic building whose original cellar remains intact; the town hall dating from 1711, built on the site of another gothic structure that burned down; as well as a still-active convent and a Franciscan church and monastery, which have also suffered fires throughout the years. The statue in front of the watchtower portrays the legendarily beneficent local favourite Františka Andrássy doing what she is reputed to have done best: spreading joy and food among poor children, watched by her doting husband Dionýz. The town’s cathedral is Rožňava’s oldest building, with the work that started during the 12th century finished in 1304. Inside, it is most notable for its 16th century altar, which Photo:MichalRengevič

eastern slovakia 177 has the usual religious imagery on the front, but uniquely depicts mining scenes behind, probably at the request of the German miners who occupied the area. The church’s exterior is now dominated by its bell tower, which was added to the main building only when funds could be raised in 1799. Its classical style was work of local architect Johann Mayer. 7 Betliar W map G 3 75 km / 46.7 miles (61 min) SW of Košice  931 www.betliar.eu  Kaštieľ Betliar (Betliar Manor House)  Kaštieľna 6, Betliar Å+421 (0)58 798-3197  www.snm.sk  Tue-Sun 9:30-16:30 (entrance every hour)  Tue-Sun 9:30-14:00 (entrance every hour) €6 (manor house), free (garden)   WC A tragic March 2012 fire destroyed Krásna Hôrka, one of Slovakia’s best castles. It also decreased the number of tourists visiting the nearby elegant manor house Betliar because the two were most frequently visited the same day. This is a shame. The Andrássy family travelled the world, hunted with native tribes, collected rare objects, and their 50-room home reflects the expensive hobbies of its aristocratic owners. It would be a mistake to miss the manor house, a worthy destination on its own and part of the Slovak National Museum. The manor house’s foundation was laid in the mid-15th century, but what visitors see today is the result of centuries of renovations. The most extensive renovation occurred between 1880 and 1886. The Andrássy family, fleeing the advancing Russian troops, left Betliar in 1944 and the estate was nationalised in 1945. It became a museum in 1953 with the stated goal of showing the public how aristocratic home decor developed in the 18th and 19th centuries. The property more than meets this goal. It is a veritable Downton Abbey in Slovakia that is frozen in time. Remarkably, none of the furnishings were stolen and the manor house was not damaged or even vandalised during World War II. Tours (about 90 minutes) are offered in various languages, and the atmosphere is intimate with small groups able to get up close and personal with the contents (most of which are described in English). The manor house’s uniqueness lies in the authenticity of the furnishings, all are original including several 18th century wall hangings. The 18th and 19th century-furnished rooms appear well used and comfortable rather than stuffy and untouchable. When the family bought new furniture, the old furniture was placed in the servant’s quarters, so there are no stark differences in the look of those who lived upstairs and those who lived downstairs. Although it is grand, the manor house maintains a homey feel. Family portraits grace the walls with the most impressive hanging in the Family Salon, located near the entrance and reached via the neo-gothic wooden staircase. The impressive library started by Leopold Andrássy and maintained by successive generations of the family contains 15,000 volumes in tall oak bookcases in neo- baroque style. A glance up reveals the Murano glass chandelier. In keeping with the family’s exotic hunting tastes, various rooms depict the thrill of the kill. One can find the preserved head of an African elephant as well as a water buffalo, a rhinoceros, tortoise and two crocodiles. Two real Egyptian mummies, the sealskin clothes of an Eskimo, and the incomplete outfit and weapons of a Japanese Samurai warrior can be viewed in the Gallery of Exotic Rarities. Collections of porcelain, silver and art, among other things, abound. While there is much to see inside the manor house, look outside to complete the experience. A 57-hectare nature park where landscaping was made a priority from the 16th to 19th centuries reflects the same thoughtful attention to symmetry and beauty with specimen plantings from around the world. The park was entered on the list of Historical Landscape Gardens of the World in 1977, though a windstorm heavily damaged the park in March 2013. the impressive library holds 15,000 volumes in neo-baroque bookcases

178 eastern slovakia - krásna hôrka castle 8 KrásnohorsKé Podhradie map G 3  63 km / 39 miles (50 min) SW of Košice  2,575 www.obeckrasnohorskepodhradie.sk  Hrad Krásna Hôrka (Krásna Hôrka Castle) www.snm.sk Currently undergoing reconstruction after fire and will reopen in 2016 at earliest. Mauzóleum grófa Dionýza a Františky Andrássyovcov (Mausoleum of Count Dionýz and Františka Andrássy)  2 km / 1.4 miles SE of the castle just outside Krásnohorské Podhradie located on the main road (E58, E571) following a traffic route from Rožňava to Košice Å+421 (0)58 732-2034  www.snm.sk   May-Sep: Tue-Sun 8:30-17:30 (entrance every hour); Nov-Mar: Tue-Sun 9:30-14:00 (entrance every 90 min); Apr, Oct: Tue-Sun 9:30-16:30 (entrance every hour) €1.5   10 min Krásna Hôrka Castle was built to protect the mediaeval route through mining towns. The exact date of the construction of castle is unknown. In the 13th century the surrounding land was owned by the aristocracy and in 1243 king Béla IV donated the site of today’s castle to Filip and Dietrich of the Ákos family in appreciation for their help fighting the Tartars. The Ákos family, later known as the Bebek family, sold the area to the Mariássy family. They are most likely the first builders of the castle around 1290. At the time it was just a fortified gothic tower on top of a limestone pile. The first recorded mention of the castle was in 1333. The Bebek family realising that the castle sat on rich mineral deposits regained control in 1352, holding it until the second half of the 16th century. After that it changed hands multiple times, until Péter Andrássy took control. His family held it until 1945, when it became property of the state. Krásna Hôrka is an exceptional example of castle architecture as it escaped the widespred liquidation of castles in the 18th century. Starting in 1857 it was the Andrássy family museum. The original tower also housed the first living space and the defensive wall formed a small courtyard. A major reconstruction was carried out in the middle of the 16th century by Francis Bebek to protect the castle from Ottoman attacks, giving the castle its triangular floor plan with cannon bastions in the corners. The largest bastion is now the chapel and the old core of the castle is in the middle of the complex. The gate to the castle had a drawbridge. Reconstruction was inspired by the work of Italian architect Alessandro da Vedano. The Andrássy family first changed the upper castle, expanding it by one storey, before adding the lower castle. interior of the chapel in the castle the coffin with the mummified remains of Žofia Serédy Photo:EmanueleTerenzani

eastern slovakia - krásna hôrka castle 179 The extended fortifications formed a new courtyard with a residential area for staff. A new intimate courtyard with a shielded porch resulted. At the turn of the 19th and 20th century a crypt was built on the ground floor of the central castle. In March 2012, a fire broke out at Krásna Hôrka Castle, its flames engulfing the entire roof within 10 minutes. The roof caught fire from the burning grass and bushes on the slopes of the castle hill. It took several hours to extinguish the fire and the damage was extensive. The wooden shingle roof burned completely, including the roof’s frame. The fire also partially destroyed the upper part of the castle, specifically the gothic palace. The majority of exhibits were saved, but many needed cleaning or a complete restoration. Krásna Hôrka Castle is scheduled to reopen in 2016. Even though the exhibits will remain the same, their display will be updated. The tour before the fire started in the lower castle, where one could take a look at the historical kitchen, dining room, tea room and gambling room. In the gothic tower and the gothic palace, visitors could inspect an array of weapons dating from the 16th and 17th centuries, various cannon models and firearms of Balkan origin. The castle exhibition also included a funeral carriage which was made to transport the remains of both Countess Františka and Count Dionýz Andrássy. The Andrássy Mausoleum is a rare example of art nouveau architecture in Slovakia. It was built on the command of Count Dionýz Andrássy, the last heir of Krásna Hôrka Castle, between 1903- 1904. Following the death of his wife, Františka Andrássy, he asked a young, talented architect from Munich, Richard Berndl, to design the mausoleum. The exquisite interior is proof of the count’s devotion to his wife. The eight support columns are decorated with green, red and pink marble and the inner surface of the dome is covered in golden mosaic pieces. The couple lived in a childless marriage for 36 years, but visitors can find the statue of their beloved dog, the dachshund Tascherl, in the backyard of the mausoleum. entrance to the castle One of the castle’s bastions was turned into a chapel. Fire at the Krásna Hôrka Castle the Andrássy Mausoleum Photo:SITA

180 eastern slovakia - slovenský kras (slovak karst) TORNAĽA Kunova Teplica Čierna Lehota Vlachovo Gočovo Nižná Slaná Rožňavské Bystré Henckovce Roštár Honce Ochtiná Rimavská Seč Čoltovo Včelince Kaloša Chanava Abovce Muráň Slaná Gemerská Hôrka Dlhá Ves Gemer Rakovinca Kružná R Slavec Lenartovce Blh Slaná Betliar Brzotín Gemerská Poloma Slavošovce Štítnik Plešivec Hanková Brdárka Kobeliarovo Rozložná Rašice Štrkovec Hubovo Figa Dulovo ROŽŇA Ochtinská aragonitová jaskyňa Gombasecká jaskyňa (cave) Jaskyňa Domica (cave) 4 5 11 10 2 3 Koceľovce SPECTACULAR SLOVA 10 jasKyňa domica (Domica Cave) W mapG493km/58miles(73min)SWofKošice Kečovo, Domica Å+421 (0)58 788-2010 www.ssj.sk  Feb-May, Sep-Dec: Tue-Sun 9:30-14:00 (entry every 90 min) Jun-Aug: Tue-Sun 9:00-16:00 (entry every hour) €6   WC  45 min The Domica Cave is the most famous and spectacular cave in the Slovak Karst (Slovenský kras) limestone area west of Košice. The vast underground system snakes its way south under the border with Hungary. The Slovak share of the Domica system is five kilometres long, of which more than one kilometre is accessible. During the tour guides lead you through the cave and its history, and explain the various formations. At the end they test whether you remember what stalagmites, stalagnates and stalactites are. By torch they point out individual formations named after their shapes. Sometimes a bat flies over the heads of visitors, reaffirming that the cave is home to more than just mineral deposits. One section of the cave, a stream known as the Styx River, is navigable only by boat. Perhaps the most exciting part of the tour consists of a 150-metre ride down the Styx on a small raft navigated by the guide. The craft glides along the calm surface of the crystal-clear water under a huge stone jammed between the walls above your head. Recently the cave underwent some modernisation and its entry hall offers a small exhibition with short films on the origin of caves, their habitats and protection. During the cave tour you can see an archaeological presentation on the life of primaeval man in the cave. The cave is easily accessible by car on the road from Plešivec, close to Rožňava, near the Slovak-Hungarian border. The cave is on UNESCO’s World Culture and Natural Heritage list. 11 gomBasecKá jasKyňa (Gombasek Cave) map G 4  76 km / 47.3 miles (41 min) SW of Košice Slavec, Gombasecká jaskyňa  Å+421 (0)58 788-2020 www.ssj.sk  Apr-May, Sep-Oct: Tue-Sun 10:00-14:30 (entran- ce every 90 min); Jun: Tue-Sun 9:00-16:00 (entrance every hour); Jul-Aug: Tue-Sun 10:00-17:00 (entrance every hour) €5   WC  30 min 9 slovensKý Kras (Slovak Karst) map F 4, G 3, 4 59 km / 37 miles (58 min) SW of Košice u Area: 346 km2 i Námestie baníkov 32, Rožňava Å+421 (0)58 732-8101 www.ticroznava.sk; www.sopsr.sk/slovkras; www.slovensky-kras.eu The nation’s most famous caves lie in the National Park Slovak Karst (Slovenský kras). A karst is an area girded by a soluble layer of bedrock, in this case limestone. The porous nature of the bedrock gives rise to vast networks of underground waterways, as well as huge occasional voids.Voids with surface openings are called caves; those without are called abysses. As is often the case, geology trumps geopolitics, and the Slovak Karst region extends across the border into Hungary. The greater karst area is 500 square kilometres, with about two thirds of it in Slovakia. On the Hungarian side of the border, the area is known as the Aggtelek Karst. As a whole, the karst in Slovakia houses around 1,300 known caves and abysses. The karst was formed during terrestrial plate-tectonic activity during the MiddleTriassic Age, around 250 million years ago. Both the Slovak and Hungarian governments have declared their parts of the karst protected nature reserves, severely limiting development. This is important, because karsts are extremely environmentally sensitive, since their porous nature allows anything – including toxic waste – to seep through and contaminate the entire system. UNESCO in 1995 declared the caves of the Slovak and Aggtelek KarstWorld Heritage Sites, in recognition of their beauty and superior preservation. This will help ensure that these delicate underground ecosystems flourish without pressure from ambitious development schemes. At first glance, the karst makes an unlikely tourist attraction. On the surface, it’s essentially a huge and barren plain, occasionally punctured by low-slung, jagged canyons dotted with scrub trees. The most famous and spectacular cave is called Domica, a vast system that snakes its way south under the border to Hungary. ©CBS www.painted-maps.com Photo:MichalRengevič Photo:MichalRengevič

eastern slovakia - slovenský kras (slovak karst) 181 30 14 15 S L O V E N S K Ý K R A S KKrásnohorská jaskyňa (cave) Betliar Krásna Hôrka Štós Krásnohorská Dlhá Lúka Jablonov n. Turňou Silica Rudná Smolnícka Huta Zlatý stôl 1322 Drnava Čuma Lipovník Háj Hačava Bodva Janík Nováčany v. Bu Rudník Poproč MEDZEV Buz Mokrance Drienovec Hrhov Jasov Vyšný Medzev Krásnohorské Podhradie MODAVA N. BODVOU Turňa n. Bodvou V Opátka Zlatá Idka Rešica Hosťovce Chorváty Zádiel Dvorníky- -Včeláre Bôrka Hrušov Silická Jablonica Žarnov AVA SLOVENSKÝ KRAS SLOVENSKÝ KRAS Jasovská jaskyňa (cave) 8 12 6 9 13 7 AKIA SPECTACULAR SLOVAKIA Gombasecká Cave is distinguished by a curious formation of sinter (mineral deposit) straws 2-3 milimetres in diameter and up to three metres long. Because of its delicate and colourful formations, it has earned the name of the fairy- tale cave. The vast marble hall features variety of stalagmites and stalactites, including cone- shaped formations like tropical anthills. The cave is on the road from Rožňava to Plešivec, and is on UNESCO’s World Culture and Natural Heritage list. 12 KrásnohorsKá jasKyňa (Krásnohorská Cave) W map G 4  67 km / 41.6 miles (53 min) SW of Košice Krásnohorská Dlhá Lúka 2 km / 1.2 miles NW of cave  Å+421 (0)905 412-048 www.krasnohorskajaskyna.sk  Apr-Nov three entrances (9:00, 11:30, 14:00) up to 10 persons; booking recommended  booking necessary€10 If tourists prefer a rush of adrenaline to passively admiring the beauties of nature, they should visit the Krásnohorská Cave. It will turn you into a spelunker, at least for a while. Visitors, when dressed in protective gear and helmets, can peer into the mysterious underground. This cave is located close to the village of Krásnohorská Dlhá Lúka. Guides can be found in the Jozefína Pension. Before visiting the cave contact a guide because access to the cave, in the National Park Slovak Karst, is possible only with a guide. Children under six are not admitted, and booking is recommended. Krásnohorská Cave is on UNESCO’s World Culture and Natural Heritage list. 13 Zádiel(hiking)  page 252 14 štós (spa)  page 225 15 jasov map H 3  27 km / 16.5 miles (27 min) NW of Košice  3,351  www.jasov.sk Premonstratensian monastery  Jasov 166 Å+421 (0)55 466-8100  booking necessary U Mon-Sat 7:00 Sun 9:00 €2 é(small stair in front of the door) WC Located south-west of the Košice Basin, the town of Jasov is one of Upper Hungary’s former mining centres. Despite its long mining history, the town is currently most noted for its monastery and caves. TheTartar invasion between 1240 and 1242 destroyed all previous written documentation of the complex, however it is thought that the Premonstratensians arrived in Jasov around 1170. They have remained to this day. The first Premonstratensian monastery dates back to the year 1228. After its several conversions in the 18th century Abbot Andreas Sauberer initiated the demolition of the former monastery to make space for the late-baroque monastery complex. This was built based on a design ascribed to Vienna-based architect Franz Anton Pilgram. It survives as an excellent piece of architecture because of the notable cooperation between the architect, the sculptor, and the painter during its development. Photo:MichalRengevič

182 eastern slovakiaPhoto:MichalRengevičPhoto:courtesyofJ&JOstrožovič The monastery is rectangular in shape with a two-tower church dedicated to St John the Baptist. The historic library with grandiose ceiling frescoes houses floor-to- ceiling bookshelves with more than 100,000 volumes – some dating back to the 15th century – making it the third biggest library in Slovakia. Jasovská jaskyňa (Jasov Cave)  located on the western edge of Jasov village about 1 km / 0.6 mile from the village centre Å+421 (0)55 466-4165 www.ssj.sk  Apr-May, Sep-Oct: Tue-Sun 10:00-14:30 (entrance every 90 min); Jun-Aug: 9:00-16:00 (entrance every hour) €5  WC  45 min This cave was discovered by the monks of the Jasov Premonstratensian order and was opened to the public as the first show cave in Slovakia in 1846. Inscriptions and records from the past have been preserved on some of the walls. Look for pagoda-like stalagmites, stalagnates, shields, drums, straw stalactites and other formations. The biggest part of the cave is the Old Dome with a huge stalagmite six metres tall. Don’t miss the historical inscription on the wall of the Dome of the Hussites reporting the victory of Jan Jiskra over the army of János Hunyadi near Lučenec in 1451. The tour covers 720 of the cave’s 2,811 metres. At present, speleo- climatic treatments are offered to allergic and asthmatic children. To get there, take the road from Moldava to Jasov. Jasovská is on UNESCO’s World Culture and Natural Heritage list. 16 nováčany (agritourism)  page 238 17 družstevná Prihornáde (agritourism) page 272 18 toKaj W map I 4  63-72 km / 40 - 45 miles (60-70 min) SE of Košice Slovenské Nové Mesto (SW of the Tokaj region)  u Area: 907 ha  The micro region embraces: Bara, Čerhov, Černochov, Malá Tŕňa, Slovenské Nové Mesto, Veľká Tŕňa and Viničky i Dlhá 230, Čerhov Å+421 (0)905 212-421 www.tvc.sk ¤ May: Urban (presentation of young wines), Tokaj in Europe; September: Open Tokaj cellars day VeľKá tŕňA  J&J Ostrožovič   WC   Nižná 233, Veľká Tŕňa Å+421 (0)56 679-3322 www.ostrozovic.sk  booking necessary MAlá tŕňA  tokaj & CO   WC   Medzipivničná 202, Malá Tŕňa Å+421 (0)56 679-2688 www.tokaj.sk  booking necessary tokaj Macik Winery   WC   Medzipivničná 174, Malá Tŕňa Å+421 (0)56 679-3466 www.tokajmacik.sk  booking necessary ViniČKy  Zlatý Strapec Viničky   WC  Viničky 118 Å+421 (0)905 271-275 www.tokaj-zlatystrapec.sk  booking necessary tokajská spoločnosť Viničky   WC   Hlavná 399/71, Viničky Å+421 (0)56 687-1401 www.tokajvinicky.sk  booking necessary Chances are that even if you are not a big fan of wine, you will still fall in love with Tokaj – a picturesque region in the southeast of Slovakia hemmed by the Zemplín mountains from the north, the confluence of the Tisa and Bodrog rivers from the south, and one of the sunniest climates in the country from above. The rare combination of conditions in the region produces a unique sweet wine adored by enthusiasts today and popes and kings in the past. Tokaj wines are produced from three cultivars: Furmint, Lipovina and Yellow Muscat. The local conditions enable

eastern slovakia 183 grapes to become “nobly rotten” (by the Botrytis cinerea noble rot), producing small, not annually guaranteed, raisins called cibebas, giving the wine its specific character. The Tokaj region is specifically delineated from the rest of the country for its unique microclimate and network of cellars that allows its vintners to produce a distinctive, sweet dessert wine. The micro-region encompasses several villages: Bara, Čerhov, Černochov, Malá Tŕňa, Slovenské Nové Mesto, Veľká Tŕňa and Viničky. With only 907 hectares, the Slovak Tokaj region is one of the smallest wine-making areas in the world. Despite its size the wines from the area are praised and appreciated all around the world. Tokaj wine has also been mentioned by the likes of Beethoven, Schubert, Franz Liszt, Tsar Peter I and several popes. It is said that king Louis XIV was so keen on the sweet wine from the Tokaj region that he had it brought to Versailles regularly. The French king is also the author of the famous saying “Vinum regnum, rex vinorum,” which means: “Wine of kings, king of wines”. Tokaj wines are also said to have medicinal effects. Regular consumption of Tokaj wine in low amounts is said to prevent heart attack, metabolic disorders and anaemia. The Tokaj region is not only known for its extraordinary wine, but also for the one-of-a-kind tuffa wine cellars. Original Tokaj cellars were built in the 16th -17th centuries and they are declared a national heritage attraction. The cellars create the perfect conditions for Tokaj wine, which is mostly helped by a special grey mould that grows on the cellars’ walls and oak barrels. The mould has the function of a biological filter and affects the humidity in the cellar. The best time to visit the region might be in May or September, when the celebrations are held in the Tokaj villages and the Tokaj Wine Tour offers wine tastings. 19 treBišov map I 3  49 km / 30.4 miles (47 min) SE of Ko- šice  24,401 i M. R. Štefánika 1632, Trebišov Å+421 (0)56 672-3277 www.trebisov.sk 1.4 km / 0.9 mile SE of centre u 1.4 km / 0.9 mile SE of centre ¤ May: Night of museums; August: Bread and wine (Harvest fest); November: Festival of lights; December: Traditional hog-killing Hrad Parič (Parič Castle)  Mestský park, Trebišov; www.muzeumtv.sk  exterior views only  free é Múzeum a Kultúrne centrum južného Zemplína (Museum and Cultural Centre of Southern Zemplín)  M. R. Štefánika 257/61, Trebišov Å+421 (0)56 672-2234  www.muzeumtv.sk  Mon-Fri, Sun €1.5  WC Mauzóleum grófa Júliusa Andrássyho (Mausoleum of Count Július Andrássy)  Mestský park, Trebišov +421 (0)56 672-2234 www.muzeumtv.sk  exterior views only (booking necessary for interior views)  free é Kostol navštívenia Panny Márie (Church of Virgin Mary’s Visitation)  Mariánske námestie 253/3, Trebišov Å+421 (0)56 672-2773 4:30-19:30 (entrance hall) U Mon-Fri 6:30, 11:30, 18:00 Sat 7:00, 18:00 Sun 7:30, 9:00, 10:30, 18:00  voluntary é Trebišov, the centre of Lower Zemplín (Dolný Zemplín), lies in the south-western part of the East Slovak Lowlands. The first written mention of Trebišov is from 1254 and is linked with the Parič Castle, which is one of the oldest parts of the town. The castle belonged to many noble families, until it was destroyed in the 17th century. Now only ruins recall its former presence in the English park near the manor house. While constructing the nearby chateau, the Csáky family also used stones left over from the castle. The Andrássy family inherited the manor in 1838 and later built the park and the neo-gothic mausoleum, Trebišov’s most notable landmarks to this day. In the manor house is the Museum and Cultural Centre of Southern Zemplín, which collects and documents the development of the Trebišov region with a special emphasis on the history of production of the Tokaj wine in eastern Slovakia. The Church of Virgin Mary’s Visitation dating back to the 14th century is an outstanding example of gothic architecture, even though it was later extended to include additional architectural styles. Its gothic net vault was decorated with exceptional rococo paintings depicting the life of the Virgin Mary and the legend of St Paul Eremite. In the 20th century, the town’s industry concentrated around the chocolate factory Deva and dairying. Only the Deva factory is still in operation, though on a significantly smaller scale than in the past.

184 eastern slovakia 20 michalovce map I 3  59 km / 36.7 miles (59 min) E of Košice  40,027 i Nám. osloboditeľov 30, Michalovce Å+421 (0)56 686-4105 www.michalovce.sk  u ¤ April/May: Spring market, June: Michalovce day; September: Zemplín ghosts’ festival Zemplínske múzeum (Zemplín Museum)  Kostolné námestie 1, Michalovce Å+421 (0)56 644-1093  www.zemplinskemuzeum.sk  Tue-Fri 9:00-16:00 Thu 9:00-17:00 Sat booking necessary Sun 14:00-17:00  Tue-Fri 8:00-14:30 Thu 8:00-17:00 Sat booking necessary  €2  é(partly) WC  60 min Kostol narodenia Panny Márie (Church of the nativity of the Virgin Mary)  Kostolné námestie, Michalovce Å+421 (0)56 642-0898 for services only U Mon, Fri 6:00, 12:00, 18:00 Tue, Thu 6:00, 18:00 Wed 6:00, 12:00 Sat 7:30, 18:00 Sun 7:30, 9:00, 10:30, 18:00 Kaplnka sv. Antona Paduánskeho (Chapel of St Anthony of Padua)  Hrádok, Michalovce Å+421 (0)56 642-0898  for services only U Mar 25-Oct 28 every other Sunday 9:00 Once a feudal town rulled by the Sztáray family, Michalovce is currently the economic, administrative and cultural centre of the Zemplín region. Given its strategic position and rich resources, the area of today’s city has been settled since the Paleolithic era. During the Late Bronze Age it gradually grew into an important trading centre within the Carpathians. Archaeological findings support the theory of Slavic colonisation in the 6th century. The name Michalovce appears for the first time as “Mihal” in a document from 1244. It is named after St Michael. Michalovce, “the heart of Zemplín”, is a reasonable starting point when discovering eastern parts of Košice Region. As the second largest city it offers the comfort of a restaurant and hotel accommodations, but still feels homey and relaxed. All sightseeing is within walking distance from the city centre. The character of the central square is formed by by colourful mix of historical architecture. The eye-catching bright blue former bank building built in the classicist style is decorated by pseudo- rococo images. The palace is influenced by Hungarian secession and there is a majestic old butchers house with a golden bull head on the front. Near the bus station is the baroque-classicistic mansion of the Sztáray family, considered to be one of the most significant historical buildings in the area. The origin of the manor house is estimated to the 17th century, after it was rebuilt on the site of an old castle. Today it serves as the Museum of the Southern Zemplín Region. Exhibitions are focused on archaeological, natural, ethnographic and historical artefacts. Among the most unique pieces dating from the Bronze Age is the earliest representation of a two-wheeled chariot in central Europe. On its grounds visitors can also view the remains of a rotunda believed to be the oldest sacred building in the city, and which archaeologists date back to between the 9th and the 12th centuries. Just a few metres from the mansion is the gothic Church of the Nativity of the Virgin Mary, dating from the 14th century. The church was built by noblemen and dedicated to the Virgin Mary, protector of the Hungarian kings. At the end of the 17th century the original gothic church burned down and after its renovation it gained a somewhat baroque appearance. Not far from the Church of the Nativity of the Virgin Mary is another church with an interesting back story. It is believed that the Greek Catholic Church of the Nativity of the Blessed Mother of God was rebuilt after a devastating fire thanks to Empress Maria Theresa. While she was passing through Michalovce she saw people praying in a half-built church and she sent 28 workers to finish the job. As a gesture of gratitude there is a Habsburg coat of arms above the portal.

eastern slovakia 185 22 ZemPlínsKa šírava (Water Dam) map I 3 70 km / 43.2 miles (68 min) NE of Košice Zemplínska šírava, rázcestie Kaluža  (resorts: Biela hora, Hôrka, Medvedia hora, Kaluža, Kamenec, Klokočov, Paľkov) i Kaluža 4 Å+421 (0)56 687-1570 www.sirava.sk  non-stop   WC ¤ June: Summer season opening; July: International meeting of powered paragliding; August: International motorcycle riders meeting, Zemplín folklore festival thermal Park šírava  Zemplínska šírava, Kaluža www.thermalparksirava.sk  Mon-Sun 9:00-21:00  from €9  é WC Circular observation boating  from the port in the resort Hôrka by boat Zemplín  3 km / 1.9 miles SW of Kaluža Zemplínska šírava, Hôrka Å+421 (0)948 187-001  Jul-Aug: Mon-Sun 10:00-16:00 (start every 2 hours); May, Sep: booking necessary  €4  45 min Zemplínska šírava is a 33 km2 man-made lake built as an anti-flood reservoir just a few kilometres from Michalovce. It is also known as the “Slovak Sea”. It is a popular place for holidays, camping, partying or just plain relaxing during the summer season and a new thermal park in Kaluža increases the tourism possibilities. Around the dam are several restaurants serving traditional Slovak cuisine, beaches and a variety of water sports on offer. More adventurous excursions include horse-back riding by the lake or in the the nearby hills. Tourists can visit the smaller, but no less beautiful, Vinianske Lake and nearby ruins of Viniansky Castle with a spectacular view over Zemplínska šírava. The volcanic lake Morské oko (Eye of the Sea in English) in the Vihorlatské vrchy mountains offers another interesting trip just a 30-minute drive from Zemplínska šírava. Around Zemplínska šírava are a number of tourist resorts. The Biela Hora resort is located on the west side of Zemplínska šírava. It is just three kilometres from Michalovce, while several of the privately owned cottages can be rented. The landscape gently slopes with a grassy entry into the water. Eight kilometres away from Michalovce is Hôrka - one of the most important centres of Zemplínska šírava. Visitors can enjoy tennis courts, a swimming pool for children, paddle boats, volleyball, or mini-golf. Sandy and gravel beaches, night life and musical performances are among the highlights. There is also an information centre and a harbour for passenger boats. Visitors can use the local horse riding centre, which also offers lessons. There is also a yacht club that offers sailing lessons. The most beautiful scenery is at Medvedia Hora and the northern side of the resort includes a new thermal park. The village of aluža has a swimming pool located at the edge of the dam. A camp closer to the village offers space for 150 caravans. Kamenec, with its gravel beach, is suitable for all kinds of water sports. There is a water slide on the picturesque bay, Disco Motel Kamenec (www.motelkamenec. sk) with a capacity of around 1,000 people, racing ring (www. kriscar.sk), and the campground has space for 50 tents. The village of Klokočov offers another campground with a capacity of 200 tents and caravans as well as a swimming pool. The village is a pilgrimage site for Greek Catholics. In the local church there is a painting of the Virgin Mary which is said to have shed tears in 1670. For fishing, Paľkov is the best choice. 21 vinné map I 3 67 km / 41.6 miles (67 min) NE of Košice  1,692  www.vinne.sk Viniansky hrad (castle)  on the west side about 2 km from the village Vinné  non-stop  free Vinianske jazero (lake)  on the east side of the village Vinné in the middle of the forest about 2.5 km / 1.6 miles from the village centre  non-stop  free  WC Kostol sv. Anny (St Anne’s Church)  Vinné Å+421 (0)56 649-2295  for services only U Sun 7:00, 10:00 Just a few minutes drive from Zemplínska šírava, the village of Vinné is a quieter alternative to the crowded holiday resort. On the left side of the village the ruins of the mediaeval Viniansky Castle overlook Zemplínska šírava’s waters, as well as the village streets. The castle was built in the 13th century to guard the route to Poland together with Brekov and Jasenov castles. It has recently been undergoing reconstruction and several archaeological objects were found on the site. In the middle of the village there is St Anne’s Church with gothic vaults and epitaphs from the 16th , 17th and 19th centuries. Going further into the woods, in the middle of a rich forest, visitors will find a smaller Vinianske Lake. The lake is a perfect place for barbecues, picnics, water sports, fishing and relaxing. The green grass beaches are a popular place for camping in summer. In the winter the lake changes into an ice skating rink. L A B O R E C K Á N I V A M I K R O R Sadenec .227,5 Ortáň .155,0 549,1 Uhliská .485,6 Hiriač .408,9 Dlhá .527,0 Skalka .570,0 Kyjov .821,1 Lopušťan .645,3 Stok .708,9 Zaňovec .507,4 Skalka .314,4 Dielik .318,3 Veľký vrch .272,2 Lomok .590,7 ZATÍN Zatínsky luh BOĽ SOĽNIČKA POĽANY LELES BAJANY BUNK FEKIŠOVCE ZÁVADKALÚČKY KLOKOČOV KUSÍNKALUŽA HAŽÍN ZALUŽICE JOVSA ÚBREŽ PORUBA POD VIHOR PORÚBKA PTIČIE STARÉ LESNÉ ORESKÉ ZBUDZA VINNÉ VOĽA NACINA VES PETROVCE NAD LABORCOM TÉ NÉ TRNAVA PRI LABORCI STRÁŽSKE CHLMEC HNOJNÉ ČIERNE POLE KRIŠOVSKÁ LIESKOVÁ PAVLOVCE NAD UHOM VYSOKÁ NAD UHOM ČIČAROVCE BEŠA IŽKOVCE VOJANY ELEKTRÁREŇ VOJANY KAMENNý MOST STRETAVKA SLAVKOVCE BUDKOVCE DÚBRAVKA KAČANOV MARKOVCE FALKUŠOVCE TRHOVIŠTE BÁNOVCE NAD ONDAVOU POZDIŠOVCE LAŠKOVCE LOŽÍN HATALOV ŽBINCE VRBNICA SLIEPKOVCE LASTOMÍR ZEMPLÍNSKA ŠIROKÁ JASTRABIE PRI MICHALOVCIACH PALÍN SENNÉ IŇAČOVCE BLATNÉ REMETY BLATNÉ REVIŠTIA RY VEĽKÉ REVIŠTIA BLATNÁ POLIANKA ČEČEHOV ŠAMUDOVCE KRÁSNOVCE SUCHÉ MICHALOVCE BRACOVCE MALČICE PETRIKOVCE KE E OBORÍN BREHOV SIRNÍK MALÉ RAŠKOVCE ZEMPLÍNSKE KOPČANY VEĽKÉ RAŠKOVCE DRAHŇOV STRETAVA Veškovce Vysocký Dvor Gajdoš Vyšné Revištia Veľké Zalužice Malé Zalužice Krížany Komanica Hradištská Moľva Kucany vce Močarany Topoľany Milovaná Stráňany Meďov Vrbovec Liesková Ťahyňa Ka Voj KAPUŠIA KĽAČANY MAŤOVS VEĽKÉ KAPUŠAN Krivošťany Vybúchanec hrad Jasenov Brekov Viniansky hrad (castle) Kyjovský prales Jovsianska hrabina Senianske rybníky A ŠIROKOROZCHODNÁ Ž E LEZNICA ŠIROKO Dlhé Tice Raškovský luh Ortov La luh Ý C H O D O S L O V E N S K Á R O V I O RKA TIN A P L A T O R I C K Á R O V I N A K A P U Š I A P L Á Ň A L A B O R E C K Á R O V I N A C H K O L AT O R I C A Zatínsky luh C H V I H O V O J E N S K Ý O B V O D V A L A Š K O V C E 18 18 74 18 50 50 50 555 555 555 555 552 552 552 554 554 555 582 582 E58 E58 E50 E50 Oľchov Žilina Ružomberok Lučenec Poprad Košice Prešov Banská Bystrica Trenčín Trnava Bratislava Brezno Komárno Bardejov Michalovce Nitra LEGENDA turistická zaujímavosť náučný chodník turistická trasa, smerovník prírodná zaujímavosť, rezervácia archeologické nálezisko štátna hranica hraničný priechod autokemping letisko číslo cesty vodný tok, vodná plocha TOPĽA 18 555E58 krad Brekov Kyjov W lyžiarske stredisko 1 2 SMER KRÁĽOVSKÝ CHLMEC ZVER KAR Duša Duša ONDAVA ONDAVA LATORICA LATORICA LABOREC Z E M P L Í N S K A Š Í R A V A LABOREC UH UH LABOREC Duša Duša Bočnýkanál U doč Udoč Ortov O rtov Čie rna voda Čierna voda Blatsk ý kanál Okna Prievlaka Vrbovský kanál Okna SENIANSKE RYBNÍKY U doč Maťovský kanál My Jovsianskyp. Sokolsky p. K usín Suchý p. Trnavský p. Kam enný p. Turský p. Ptava Petrovajk a Šíravský kanál Vinianske jazero (lake) LABORE C Čierna v o da Čečehovskýkanál Výpustný kanál Biela hora Hôrka Medvedia hora Kaluža Kamenec Klokočov Paľkov ©CBS www.painted-maps.com

The Košice Region is a small area in Slova- kia with a particularly strong concentration of remarkable beauties of nature, as well as monuments, magical stories, nice people and unique traditions and habits. The wealth of national parks, unique caves, beautiful rock formations, canyons and wa- terfalls astound every visitor who decides to see the region through its natural heri- tage. Lovers of history will also enjoy the many architectural monuments, the pre- served castles, manor houses and the rare and unique churches, as well as the muse- ums and technical monuments scattered throughout the entire region, documenting the rich history of this land. It is an ideal place for spending your holiday. The Košice Region is picturesque and di- verse, and it holds within it a great many enchanting places which will inspire you to visit again and again. get inspired get inspired www.kosiceregion.com SP013143/001

eastern slovakia 187 23 soBrance map J 3 79 km / 48.7 miles (77 min) E of Košice  5,981 www.zemplin.eu  Gitarové múzeum (Guitar Museum)  Gorkého 338/9, Sobrance +421 (0)902 370-909   Mon-Fri 10:00-17:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-19:00 (call in advance)  voluntary  é WC The unique Guitar Museum in Sobrance is the only museum of its kind in Europe. Currently under reconstruction, the red building with a façade in the shape of guitar, houses hundreds of original musical instruments from different eras, each with its own peculiar story. The museum also recounts the evolution and production of electric guitars in Czechoslovakia after World War II. Musician Ján Ferko started the collection as a hobby about 25 years ago. The idea of the guitar museum started when Ferko found a photograph of his first guitar, which he got at the age of 15. This rekindled memories from his youth and evoked the hunt to find that first ever guitar. He never did, but did find hundreds of others on the way. Now, the collection has grown to more than 1,100 pieces including originals that cannot be found anywhere else, as well as other musical instruments and period artifacts. Ferko founded the museum in 1996. 24 tiBava(wine) page 231 25 orechová(wine)  page 231 26 inovce map J 3  99 km / 61.5 miles (96 min) NE of Košice  213  Chrám sv. Michala Archanjela (Church of St Michael the Archangel) +421 (0)56 658-2514  booking necessary €1.4 WC The wooden church in the village of Inovce is one of three wooden Greek-Catholic churches in the Košice region. It was built in 1836 and is dedicated to St Michael the Archangel. The church is small but met the needs of the village. The bell is not in the church tower, which is too small to hold a bell, but is in a nearby columned structure. Behind the church is a graveyard. The church itself has three parts: an entrance which is sheltered by the west tower, the square nave, and the sanctuary which is separated from the nave by an iconostasis. The iconostasis remains incomplete because of the lack of space and is presently being renovated. The whole church is an example of construction suited to the Byzantine rite and is accompanied by baroque and classicist architecture, as well as paintings from the beginning of the 19th century. The church no longer hosts masses (not since 1950), but the mayor of Inovce has the key to the church and is happy to open it for tourists. 27 rusKá Bystrá W map J 3104 km / 64.6 miles (103 min) NE of Košice 118 www. ruskabystra.lekosonline.sk  Cerkva sv. Mikuláša (Church of St nicholaus) Å+421 (0)918 476-274 booking necessary USun 10:30  voluntary This Greek-Catholic wooden church standing on a hill was built in the first half of the 18th century and was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List, along with seven other wooden churches, in 2008. The church, a result of the blending of Latin and Byzantine cultures, resembles a log farmhouse with a belfry. It consists of the sanctuary, the nave and the entrance space (usually called babinec in such churches) and is covered with a shingle roof. 28 morsKé oKo (Eye of the Sea) map J 3  95 km / 58.1 miles (98 min) NE of Košice Remetské Hámre 9 km / 5.4 miles S of Morské oko www.morske-oko.sk   WC Morské Oko, a volcanic lake 13 hectares in size, is hidden in the shadows of a primeval beech forest in the Vihorlatské vrchy mountains. Near the village of Remetské Hámre, visitors can either walk or drive to the lake. The walk from the car park to the lake takes about 15 minutes. The volcanic lake is a perfect place to relax and enjoy the natural setting. The area offers opportunities for hiking in the mountains or enjoying the coffee in a cottage by the lake in the summer months. Morské oko has long been known for its fresh air and clear nature in the past, with wealthy families coming to rest in a mansion by the lake.