Spectacular Slovakia - Northern Slovakia 2

Bojnice Castle The annual coronation ceremony Hronsek Štiavnické vrchy Banská Bystrica How to use this guide 2 Seven day itinerary 4 Slovakia’sTOP 10 5 History 6 Changing Slovakia 12 Personalities 16 UNESCO 20 Sight by sight Bratislava 26 Bratislava Region 45 Western Slovakia 60 Central Slovakia 96 Northern Slovakia 118 Eastern Slovakia 166 Feature section Castles 200 Slovak art 204 Folklore 209 Gothic architecture 212 Religion 214 Wooden churches 216 Jewish heritage 220 Spas 223 Wine 228 Beer & Spirits 232 Food 234 Agritourism 238 Animal watching 240 Horses 242 Cycling 245 Rafting 249 Hiking 252 Caves 256 Skiing 259 Aqua 262 Best deals 265 Extreme - heights 268 Speed, army 270 Out of the city 272 Luxury 274 Golf 276 Genealogy 280 War 282 Mines, technical monuments 285 Industrial tours 288 Economy 290 Basics for tourists Language (inside front cover) Souvenirs 294 Events 294 Travellers’ needs 300 Restaurants 302 Index (inside back cover) Pull-out map (inside back cover) CONTENTS

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Live your own story of Slovakia Top Slovak sights 32 travel feature stories Pull-out map of Slovakia Suggested seven day itinerary Information and contact details for more than 450 tourist spots Drawings of 28 historical monuments 3D aerial drawings of 7 major city centres 17 maps of city centres and major mountains More than 1,000 photos Calendar of events Selection of top hotels and restaurants ISBN 978-80-971719-0-2 The Slovak Spectator Slovak news you can trust since 1995 sPecTAcULAR sLOVAKiA

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29 Chopok (hiking, ski) pg 144-145, 260-261, 266, 252 30 Demänovská jaskyňa slobody W (cave) pg 145, 256 31 Demänovská ľadová jaskyňa (ice cave) pg 145-146, 256 32 Svätý Kríž (wooden church) pg 146 33 Liptovská Mara (recreation area) pg 146-147, 263, 288 34 Havránok (open-air museum) pg 147 35 Kvačianska dolina (hiking) pg 252 36 Lúčky (spa) pg 225 37 Bešeňová (aqua) pg 147 38 Kozí vŕšok (food) pg 147, 239, 267 39 Likava (castle - ruins) pg 149 40 Ružomberok (city) pg 149-151, 239, 244, 247, 268, 289 41 Vlkolínec W (traditional village - UNESCO site) pg 150, 21, 22 42 Malinô Brdo (ski, hiking) pg 151, 260 43 Salaš Krajinka (food) pg 151, 239 44 Leštiny (wooden church - UNESCO site) pg 152 45 Dolný Kubín (city) pg 152, 239 46 Lučivná (ski) pg 259 47 Zázrivá (food) pg 239 48 Kubínska hoľa (hiking, ski) pg 152 49 Oravský Podzámok W (castle, rafts) pg 152-154, 265 50 Sedliacka Dubová (monastery - ruins) pg 272-273 51 Podbiel (extreme, folklore) pg 211, 270, 52 Zuberec (traditional village) pg 154, 216, 246, 265, 271 53 Roháče W (hiking, ski) pg 254-255 54 Zverovka - Spálená (ski) pg 259 55 Oravice (hiking, ski, aqua) pg 154, 260, 265 56 Trstená (city) pg 154 57 Tvrdošín (wooden church - UNESCO site) pg 155, 216, 269 58 Oravská priehrada (recreation area) pg 155, 263, 206, 207, 288 59 Klin (statue) pg 155 60 Oravská Lesná (railway, dogsled) pg 155, 266 61 Vychylovka (museum, railway) pg 156, 286 62 Veľká Rača (ski) pg 156, 260 63 Stará Bystrica (clock) pg 156 64 Terchová (town, folklore) pg 156-157 65 Vrátna (hiking, ski) pg 157, 252 66 Malá Fatra (hiking) pg 157, 240 67 Strečno W (castle - ruins, rafts) pg 157-158 68 Súľov (hiking, castle - ruins) pg 158, 253 69 Bytča (manor house) pg 158, 280 70 Žilina W (city, castle) pg 159-161, 207, 222, 267, 269, 271, 289 71 Lietava (castle - ruins) pg 161-162, 272-273 72 Rajecké Teplice W (spa) pg 162, 224, 225, 246 73 Rajec (town, aqua) pg 162, 276-277 74 Golf Park Rajec (golf) pg 162 75 Rajecká Lesná (nativity scene) pg 162-164 76 Čičmany W (traditional village) pg 164, 209 77 Valčianska dolina (ski, golf) pg 260, 246, 277 78 Martinské hole (ski) pg 261 79 Martin (city, open-air museum) pg 164-165, 207, 269 80 Sklabinský Podzámok (castle - ruins) pg 165, 272-273 81 Turčianske Teplice (spa, aqua) pg 225 82 Veľká Fatra (hiking, ski) pg 254, 240  page 164  pages 140-141  pages 152-154  page 123  pages 134-135  pages 130-133  page 145  pages 120-122, 144-145 Photo:AmandaRivkin Photo:LukášVaršíkPhoto:MichalRengevič Photo:AmandaRivkin 22 23 2425 26 27 28 33 29 30 31 T T2 T1 T3 T5 T7 T8 T6 T4 1 2 34 5 6 7 9 8 10 11 12 13 15 14 16 17 52 53 54 55 56 18 1920 21 introduction to northern slovakia 119

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19 Važecká jaskyňa (cave)  page 257 20 Východná (folklore festival)  page 210 21 skanzen Pribylina (Open-air Museum Pribylina) map F 3  53 km / 32 miles (34 min) NW of Poprad  1.5 km / 0.9 mile SW of museum Pribylina +421 (0)44 529-3163 www.liptovskemuzeum.sk  Jan-Apr, Nov-Dec: Mon-Sun 9:00-16:00; May-Jun: Mon-Sun 9:00-17:30; Jul-Aug: Mon-Sun 9:00-18:30; Sep: Mon-Sun 9:00-18:00; Oct: Mon-Sun 9:00-17:00 €3   WC  May: Shepherd’s Day; December: Christmas in Liptov Though there has never been a village on this exact site, visitors today will find themselves in the centre of a recreated mediaeval village. The open-air museum near Pribylina, the youngest of its kind in Slovakia, shows how Slovaks lived in the Liptov region hundreds of years ago. Most of the buildings were moved to this site from the areas that were inundated as a result of the construction of the Liptovská Mara reservoir. Visitors will find a reconstructed gothic church, which once stood on the banks of Liptovská Mara and whose actual tower still pokes up out of the water. Another remnant from the village is a gothic-Renaissance mansion from Parížovce, which is closely associated with Matthias Corvinus, a noted Hungarian king. The mansion and church are surrounded by log houses representing the typical living quarters in the Liptov region.Tourists can visit a village school, a blacksmith shop, as well as the homes of ordinary farmers. During the summer months, live domestic animals are kept there. Visitors can meet traditional artisans, potters, tinkers and smiths. The open-air museum sponsors a number of special events – Christmas markets, the Celebration of Spring, and culinary days featuring typical regional foods. The museum continues to develop exhibits. It plans to rehabilitate Považská Lesná Železnička, an old forest railway once used for transporting wood as well as passengers, and use it to move visitors between the various areas of the museum. At present, the trains are part of a static exhibit of old-time engines and carriages. 22 žiarska dolina (hiking)  page 252 23 sMreČany (gothic church)  page 213 24 liPToVský hrádok map F 3 53 km / 32 miles (37 min) W of Poprad  7,601 www.lhsity.sk  Hotel Grand Castle  Ulica Magdaleny Zai 1, Liptovský Hrádok +421 (0)44 520-7711 www.grandcastle.sk  non-stop (hotel);  Mon-Sun 10:00-16:00 (entrance every 60 min)  Tue-Sun 11:00-15:00 booking necessary (castle) €3 (castle)   WC  25-40 min (tour around the castle) For centuries, a ruined chateau lay beside a lake at the edge of the town of Liptovský Hrádok on the road to Poprad. But in 2001 a businesswoman from Bratislava, Dagmar Machová, bought the ruins and turned them into a unique and charming luxury hotel. The accommodations are decorated in styles of the 14th century when the chateau was built with such designations as the king’s apartment, the knight’s chamber and Magdalena Zai’s restaurant. Staff offer tours of the castle and grounds on weekends. The hotel Grand Castle has also become a site for weddings and receptions. Besides this aristocratic residence, Liptovský Hrádok was known for having the first school of forestry in the Kingdom of Hungary. The school was founded in 1768. An arboretum from the same period still exists. Relatively small, the arboretum is the oldest in Slovakia and boasts the country’s third largest collection of trees and greenery. A local ethnographic museum, a branch of the Ružomberok-based Liptov Museum, is housed nearby. 25 liPToVský ján mapE367km/41.6miles(41min)WofPoprad 953www.liptovskyjan.sk TermalrajLiptovkýJán (thermalswimmingpool) HotelSoreaMáj,LiptovskýJán(1.7km/1.1miles Sofvillagecentre)+421(0)44520-8100 www.sorea.sk/majJun-Sep:Mon-Sun9:00-19:00 (outdoorswimmingpool);Jan-Dec:Mon-Sun8:00-11:00, 13:00-20:00(indoorswimmingpool)€8(per day;outdoorswimmingpool);€5(perhour;indoor swimmingpool)   WC Stanišovskájaskyňa(cave) caveislocated5km/3.1milesSofvillage LiptovskýJán+421(0)908640-061 www.stanisovska.skMon-Sun10:00-16:00 (entranceevery60min)€6 WC60min A quaint but sleepy village located in Jánska dolina valley holds many attractions for history buffs. Written records of Liptovský Ján date from 1263, but its historical heritage goes all the way back to two Bronze Age fortifications. The village’s Roman Catholic Church designed in romanesque and gothic styles 142 northern slovakia - liPtov Traditions are alive in Pribylina Open-airMuseumPribylina

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144 northern slovakia - liPtov 28 nízkeTaTry V (LowTatras) map E 3, F 3  19-110 km / 12-68 miles (20-75 min) SW of Poprad www.nizketatry.sk Area: 1,242 km2 ; Highest point: Ďumbier (2,043 m) The second highest mountain range in Slovakia offers an experience that is quite different from what can be found in the HighTatras. The slopes of the LowTatras are less precipitous and rocky than those of the HighTatras which actually makes them more suitable for skiing and hiking. The LowTatras are the largest mountain chain in Slovakia and make up its biggest national park. They form an 80-kilometre border between the regions of Horehronie (central Slovakia) and the Liptov region (northern Slovakia). Thus, the LowTatras are bounded by the two longest rivers in Slovakia – the Váh and the Hron. Ďumbier is its highest peak with a height of 2,043 metres / 6,703 ft, followed by Štiavnica (2,025 m / 6,644 ft) and Chopok (2,024 m / 6,637 ft). The highest peak in the western LowTatras is Kráľova hoľa which rises up to a height of 1,946 metres / 6,385 ft. The mountains are home to a rich variety of wildlife – especially bears, wolves, and lynx. The Low Tatras also boast some unusual and interesting geologic formations, including huge limestone formations called limestone or karst as well as several large underground caves. 29 choPok Jasná – Chopok sever (north) Map E 3 73 km / 45.3 miles (52 min) SW of Poprad +421 (0)907 886-644 www.jasna.sk Cableways Jasná Biela Púť – Chopok  Jun, Sep: Mon-Sun 8:30-16:00; Jul-Aug: Mon-Sun 8:30-17:00  Mon-Sun 8:30-15:00 from €13   WC Srdiečko – Chopok juh (south)  91 km / 56.3 miles (75 min) SW of Poprad +421 (0)907 886-644 www.jasna.sk Cableways Srdiečko – Kosodrevina  Jun, Sep: Mon-Sun 8:30-16:30; Jul-Aug: Mon-Sun 8:30-17:30  Mon-Sun 8:30-15:30 Cableways Kosodrevina– Chopok Jun, Sep: Mon-Sun 8:30-16:00; Jul-Aug: Mon-Sun 8:30-17:00  Mon-Sun 8:30-15:00 €13   WC The Low Tatras are extremely popular during the winter. The Jasná resort is the largest ski centre in Slovakia, offering 45 kilometres of slopes with 30 lifts. From the northern edge (Chopok sever), visitors can pass through the ridge into the Low Tatras and ski on the southern slopes (Chopok juh). Some skiers may choose the less confined slopes for free-riding on more daunting courses. Ski passes of two or more days also include access to the aquapark Tatralandia, which is 20 kilometres from Jasná. The cable cars operate all summer for hikers. The southern face of the Low Tatras in central Slovakia offers less expensive skiing. Centres in Mýto pod Ďumbierom (www. skicentrummyto.eu) or in Tále (www.tale.sk), which are located in the valley under the Chopok, are popular for families. Donovaly (www.parksnow.sk), situated on the western edge of the Low Tatras with the Greater Fatra (Veľká Fatra), is also one of the most visited ski centres in Slovakia. During summer, Srdiečko is an Jasnáskiresort(CourtesyofTatryMountainResorts) 36 32 31 25 30 29 27 35 41 i3 Čierny Váh (pg 288-289) 24 Liptovský Hrádok (pg 142) 25 Liptovský Ján (pg 142-143) 27 Liptovský Mikuláš (pg 143) 29 Chopok (pg 144-145) 30 Demänovská Cave of Liberty (pg 145) 31 Demänovská Ice Cave (pg 145-146) 32 Svätý Kríž (pg 146) 28 Šumiac (pg 111) 35 Tále (pg 113) 36 Dead Bats’ Cave (pg 113) 41 Donovaly (pg 114) Latiborská hoľa 1,643 Ďurková 1,750 Skalka 1,980 Dereše 2,003 Ďumbier 2,043 Ráztocká hoľa 1,565Zvolen 1,403 Chopok 2,024 Tále

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northern slovakia - liPtov 145Photo:MichalRengevič ideal starting point for hikes from central Slovakia to Chopok – it takes around three hours to get to the top. Hikers can take a break in the Kamenná chata pod Chopkom chalet, or they can continue on numerous other trails. For non-hikers there are cable cars from Srdiečko to Kosodrevina, then up to Chopok. The best way to reach the highest point of the Low Tatras, Ďumbier, from the southern side, is to make the hour and half hike from Trangoška (2 kilometres before Srdiečko) to the M. R. Štefánik chalet, passing around the Dead Bats’ Cave. From the chalet it takes 90 minutes to Ďumbier. On the northern side, the cable cars from Jasná-Záhradky will take visitors almost to the top of Chopok. To go back down, use hiking trails or the cable cars. Jasná also offers hiking adventures for children. The Giant Bike Park Jasná is suitable for anyone keen on mountain biking. Bikes can be rented then the chair-lift will take them to the top of the hill. Other activities including paragliding and horseback riding are also available. 30 deMänoVská jaskyňa slobody (Demänovská Cave of Liberty) W map E 3  65 km / 40 miles (46 min) SW of Poprad  0.5 km / 0.3 mile W of the cave Demänovská Dolina, Jaskyňa Slobody  The cave’s entrance is about 400 metres from the car park +421 (0)44 559-1673 www.ssj.skJan-May, Sep 15-Nov 25: Tue-Sun 9:30-14:00 (entrance every 90 min); Jun: Tue-Sun 9:00-16:00 (entrance every hour); Jul-Aug: Mon-Sun 9:00-16:00 (entrance every hour)  €8   WC The Demänovská Cave of Liberty is the most visited cave in Slovakia thanks partly to its location in the Demänovská Valley a popular tourist destination. The interior of the cave was created by the underground flow of the Demänovka River, whose headwaters spring below the main ridge of the LowTatras. The cave is 8,497 metres long, and visitors can choose between a 1,150-metre and a 2,150-metre tour to see sinter water-lilies and other forms, as well as eccentric stalactites (stalactites hang upside down, as opposed to stalagmites, which grow from the ground up; eccentric means that they defy gravity by growing horizontally, for example). The cave is known for its rich colours, ranging from white, through various shades of brown to black. In the cave you can also see a 60-metre waterfall as well as a cave organ consisting of stalagmites that emit a musical tone when struck. All the formations are continuing to grow, or in cave parlance are alive, meaning they glisten.To get to the cave take the road from Liptovský Mikuláš to Jasná, walking about 15 minutes up from the parking lot. 31 deMänoVská ľadoVá jaskyňa (Demänovská Ice Cave) map E 3  63 km / 39 miles (43 min) SW of Poprad  0.6 km / 0.4 mile W of the cave Demänovská Dolina, Ľadová jaskyňa  The cave’s entrance is about 600 metres from the car park +421 (0)44 554-8170 www.ssj.skMay 15- May 31, Sep: Tue-Sun 9:30-14:00 (entrance every 90 min); Jun: Tue-Sun 9:00-16:00 (entrance every hour); Jul-Aug: Mon-Sun 9:00-16:00 (entrance every hour)  7   WC ©KartografieHP 24 i3 28 Veľká Vápenica 1,691 Babiná 1,516 Oravcová 1,544 Liptovský Hrádok Šumiac Kráľová hoľa 1,946 Predná hoľa 1,546Orlová 1,840

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146 northern slovakia - liPtov Demänovská Ice Cave is only about two kilometres from the Demänovská Cave of Liberty, but the two caves offer visitors a completely different experience. While the Cave of Liberty is bright and shining, the domes of the ice cave are dark and gloomy. This is because in the latter cave, when it was first opened to the public in the 1880s, pitch torches were used for lighting, which eventually covered the walls in ash. Moreover, most of the elements in the cave are dead, meaning they do not have a regular supply of minerals from dripping or flowing water. The result is that they tend to look dull and dark. The ice after which the cave is named is only in the lower section, stretching 1,975 metres, of which 650 metres are open to the public. The original name of the cave was the Cave of the Dragon. This was because people thought that the bones they found inside came from a dragon. They were later found to come from a bear. Look for the visitor’s book on the cave’s wall containing the signatures of significant people who visited the cave, such as Slovak writers and national figures Michal M. Hodža and Samo Chalupka. The oldest signature comes from 1714.To get to the cave take the road from Liptovský Mikuláš to Jasná, and then walk about 20 minutes up from the parking lot. 32 sVäTý kríž map E 3  68 km / 42 miles (46 min) W of Poprad Wooden Articular Evangelical Church  the church is located in the end of village Svätý Kríž in part called Lazisko  3 km / 1.8 miles NW of church Svätý Kríž +421 (0)44 559-2622 ww.drevenykostol.sk  Oct-May: Mon-Sun 9:00-14:45; Jun-Sep: Mon-Sun 9:00-17:00  Sun 9:00 €1 The church in Svätý Kríž is one of the largest wooden churches in Europe. It was built in the 18th century in the village of Paludza as a centre for Evangelical Christians. It is one of five remaining so-called articular churches, named after articles adopted in Sopron in 1681 under which Protestants gained among other things, the right to build churches. This church does not stand in its original location, a fact that may have caused it to lose a place on the UNESCO World Heritage List. In 1974, the village of Paludza was inundated and destroyed during the construction of the Liptovská Mara reservoir and the huge church, which has an estimated capacity of 4,000 people, was disassembled and moved to its present site. It contains a baroque wooden altar from 1693, as well as a wooden pulpit, a Venetian glass chandelier and an impressive vault. The church is still used for religious services as well as occasional concerts. 33 liPToVská Mara map E 3  66 km / 41 miles (46 min) NW of Poprad Boat cruise  Liptovský Trnovec  6 km / 4.3 miles SE of port Liptovský Mikuláš +421 (0)917 261-274 www.lodmara.sk  May-Jun: Sat-Sun 11:00-15:00 (start every 75 min) Mon-Fri booking necessary; Jul-Sep: Mon-Sun 10:00-16:00 (start every 75 min) from €9  WC  60 min Between the years 1969-1975, 13 villages disappeared beneath the waters of Liptovská Mara, the largest manmade reservoir in Slovakia. The reservoir was built to prevent other villages and towns from the ravaging floods of the Váh River.Today, Liptovská Mara, located near Liptovský Mikuláš, is a centre of many summertime activities including water sports, Icecave(Photo:MichalRengevič) LiptovskáMara(Photo:MiroŠvec)

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northern slovakia - liPtov 147 cycling, yachting, surfing and fishing.Two aquaparks (Tatralandia and Bešeňová) are nearby, as well as a campground near Liptovský Trnovec. During the summer the lake is very popular with swimmers. A boat cruise offering many views of the surrounding mountains is available from LiptovskýTrnovec. The archaeological site Havránok is located a 100 metres from a gothic church tower on the banks of Liptovská Mara, which is the only remaining structure from the flooded villages. It now houses a museum. Some of the most valuable buildings from the flooded villages were moved to the open-air museum of Liptov village in Pribylina. A chalet restaurant (Dechtáre) lies next to the Liptovský-Mikuláš-to-Ružomberok highway and offers nice views of the reservoir. 34 haVránok mapE3 80km/50miles(54min)WofPoprad Keltský skanzen Havránok (Open-air Celtic Museum Havránok)  the entrance to the open-air museum is about 0.7 km / 0.4 mile from the church tower next to the Liptovská Mara  2.5 km / 1.5 miles NW of museum ( Bobrovník)  4 km / 2.2 miles SW of museum ( Liptovské Vlachy) +421 (0)44 432- 2468 www.liptovskemuzeum.sk  May, Sep-Oct: Mon-Sun 9:00-17:00; Jun-Aug: Mon-Sun 8:30-18:30 €2  The banks of the Váh River have been inhabited since ancient times. By 100 BC a Celtic settlement was flourishing on a hill near Bobrovník, the site of the manmade reservoir Liptovská Mara. Archaeologists have since uncovered many artefacts of Celtic religious ceremonies and dwellings. The residents of this village carried on a lively trade with the northern Romans. From the 12th to 15th centuries a Slavic settlement that included a wooden fortification with a moat and tower evolved. Later, a walled church was built. Some of these archaeological discoveries have been reconstructed and are now open to the public from May to October. There is an archaeological museum on the grounds, which offers exhibits of artefacts all the way back to the Bronze Age. One day each July is set aside as Celtic Day, and visitors can see demonstrations of ordinary Celtic life including their crafts and religious rituals. 35 kVaČianska dolina (hiking)  page 252 36 lúČky (spa)  page 225 37 beŠeňoVá map E 3  74 km / 46 miles (44 min) NW of Poprad  562 www.besenova.sk  Gino Paradise Bešeňová  Bešeňová 136 +421 (0)44 430-7708 www.ginoparadise.sk  Mon-Sun 10:00-21:00 from €11  WC Gino Paradise Bešeňová offers thermal water as well as dazzling year-round views of theTatra mountains. The resort has undergone a major upgrade and added a number of new facilities. It now includes eight outdoor swimming pools with thermal temperatures ranging from 26°C to 39°C. All but one of these facilities is open all year round. Another five pools are available in the summer for outdoor swimming and in case of bad weather an indoor pool is also available. For those seeking more extreme excitement, there is a new tower with six waterslides with a total length measuring one kilometre. There is also a wild river pool that creates artificial waves. 38 kozí VŕŠok (Goat Hill) map E 3  73 km / 45.6 miles (43 min) NW of Poprad  0.7 km / 0.4 mile SW of Kozí vŕšok Ivachnová Ivachnová 304, Liptovská Teplá +421 (0)44 431-1901 www.kozivrsok.sk  Mon-Sun 9:00-21:00    WC Kozí vŕšok (Goat Hill) is situated between Liptovský Mikuláš and Ružomberok, on the highway to Ružomberok near the Bešeňová thermal resort. It includes a restaurant and shop with locally produced dairy products and traditional Slovak art. Kozí vŕšok offers aged cheeses from goat, cow or sheep milk as well as the traditional salty sheep cheese bryndza. In 2012 its semi-hard goat cheese won bronze prize at the prestigious World Cheese Awards competition in Birmingham, England. While families enjoy typical Slovak meals, children can have fun in the mini- zoo and playground. Bešeňová(Photo:MiroŠvec)

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www.ztk-kocr.sk SP013301/001

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northern slovakia - liPtov 149 39 likaVa (castle ruins) map E 3  86 km / 53.4 miles (60 min) NW of Poprad  1 km/ 0.6 mile SW of castle Likavka, hrad  3.5 km / 2.2 miles N of castle Ružomberok  the castle’s entrance is about 30 min of walk from the car park +421 (0)44 432- 2468 www.liptovskemuzeum.sk  May: Tue-Sun 10:00-16:00; Jun-Aug: Mon-Sun 9:00-17:00; Sep: Mon-Fri 9:00-17:00 Sat-Sun 11:00-15:00; Oct: Mon-Fri 10:00-16:00 Sat-Sun 11:00-15:00 €2 When travelling from Ružomberok toward the Orava region, you pass the ruins of a castle on a tall cliff next to the village of Likavka. The castle was erected as a bastion to guard the way from the Považie region to the Orava region. One of the first castles with glass windows, the Likava Castle dates to the 14th century. It was virtually destroyed by imperial troops in 1707. Even though only ruins remain, the castle is still one of the most important representatives of late gothic and Renaissance castle architecture. It is also one of the tallest constructions of its kind in Slovakia. An exhibit in Hunyady’s Bastion offers an outline of the castle’s history. 40 ružoMberok map E 3  83 km / 52 miles (55 min) W of Poprad  28,400  A. Bernoláka 1, Ružomberok +421 (0)44 432-1096 www.ruzomberok.sk    June: Ružomberský jarmok (fair) The town on the Rose hill (Rosenberg in German) is the centre of the lower Liptov region. While the first written mention dates back to 1233, it was the archbishop of EsztergomTomáš who granted the town privileges in 1318 upon the request of Magister Donč. King Charles Robert of Anjou confirmed and extended the privileges in 1340. Later King Sigismund gave Ružomberok to the nearby Likava estate, starting long-protracted conflict between the town and the estate. Thanks to its strategic position, the town continued to develop and became an important centre of culture and administration in the 19th and 20th centuries. In the early decades of the 20th century Ružomberok boasted the largest population in the country.Today though it still clings to its old reputation as a cultural hub, it is generally regarded more as an industrial centre mainly because of a large paper mill. Paper has been produced in Ružomberok for more than 130 years, spurred on by the completion of the railway from Bohumín to Košice in 1872. Rich resources of wood, water, and skilled people, together with relentless diligence changed the small mill into an industrial leader. Today Mondi SCP paper mill is the city’s biggest employer. The town’s historical monuments are mostly concentrated around the centre. The long rectangular Andrej Hlinka Square (Námestie Andreja Hlinku) is located on a low hill overlooking the main streets and features several attractions, most notably a town hall built in 1897 and the Roman Catholic Church of St Andrew. The neo-baroque town hall was initially the home of state bodies, but later it served for long years as a Roman Catholic parsonage.Today it is the seat of the city council. In front of the town hall stands a neo-baroque pillar with the sculpture of the Virgin Mary from the late 18th century. Church of St Andrew The neo-baroque town hall in Ružomberok

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150 northern slovakia - liPtov Kostol sv. Ondreja (Church of St Andrew)  Námestie Andreja Hlinku, Ružomberok +421 (0)44 432-2614 entrance hall  Mon-Fri 6:00, 6:45, 16:00 Sat: 6:00, 6:45, 18:15 Sun: 6:00, 8:00, 9:30, 11:00, 14:15, 18:15 The Church of St Andrew was originally built in the gothic style in the 13th century and was rebuilt in the 16th and 18th centuries first in the Renaissance and later baroque styles. The church contains a gothic baptistery from the 16th century. The church’s tower holds the oldest bell in the Liptov region, cast in 1506. Mauzóleum Andreja Hlinku (Mausoleum of Andrej Hlinka)  A. Bernoláka 1, Ružomberok +421 (0)44 432-1096   Tue-Sat 10:00- 16:00  booking necessary €1 The Mausoleum of Andrej Hlinka (1864-1938) is located on the southern side of the square. Hlinka, a Catholic priest, was a key player in Slovak politics between the two world wars. The mausoleum consisting of a chapel and the sepulchre was completed in 1939. The remains of Hlinka were removed from the mausoleum at the end of World War II to protect them from bombing. The square is completed with the church and accompanying buildings of the former Piarist monastery. The Andrej Hlinka Square is connected with the lower part of the city with six staircases, which create a typical feature of the city. These are School Stairs, Dark Stairs, Rose Stairs, stairs on Mostová Street, stairs of Northern Street and the Monastery Stairs. In total they consist of almost 580 steps. The stairs host the only stair bicycle competition in Slovakia. Liptovské múzeum v Ružomberku (Liptov Museum)  Námestie Š. N. Hýroša 10, Ružomberok +421 (0)44 432-2468 www.liptovskemuzeum.sk  Jan-May, Nov-Dec: Mon-Fri 8:00-15:00 Sat-Sun booking necessary; Jun: Mon-Fri 8:00-15:00 Sat-Sun 13:00-16:00; Jul-Aug: Mon-Fri 8:00-16:00 Sat-Sun 13:00-16:00; Sep: Mon-Fri 8:00-15:00 Sat-Sun 13:00-15:00; Oct: Mon-Fri 8:00-15:00 Sat-Sun 10:00- 15:00 €3  WC Ružomberok is also home to the Liptov Museum, established in 1912, which offers views of the history, art, and natural beauty of the region. It also features exhibits of the history of paper production in Ružomberok as well as the rest of Slovakia. Galéria Ľudovíta Fullu (Ľudovít Fulla Gallery)  Makovického 1, Ružomberok +421 (0)44 432-4867 www.sng.sk  Tue-Sun 10:00-17:30 €1.7  WC Many of the works of artist Ľudovít Fulla (1902-1980), an exceptional Slovak painter who spent his last years in Ružomberok, are displayed in a gallery near the city centre. The versatile artist is acclaimed for uniquely connecting the impulses of the European avant-garde with inspirations of Slovak folk art. The gallery sits in a building which was built to hold works, which Fulla willed to the Slovak National Gallery. It was completed by architect Štefan Hatala based on the design of Martin Kusý. In the gallery, visitors can see paintings, graphic works, drawings, illustrations, tapestries, and applied art as well as the workroom of the painter himself. Fulla’s stained glass windows can be seen also in the Church of St Andrew. Fulla is buried in the local cemetery. Ružomberok: Outdoor The steam engine in the park near the railway station recalls the past fame of the Korytnica spa, about 30 km from the city. The narrow-gauge railway called Korytnička, which used to transport visitors from Ružomberok to the spa, has been partly turned into a cycling route. Ružomberok also offers possibilities for outdoor adventures. There are numerous trails around the town for hiking and there is the ski resort Malinô Brdo for the winter. Its surroundings offer excellent opportunities for cross-country skiing, hiking and alpine skiing. 41 ružoMberok - Vlkolínec W map E 3  87 km / 54 miles (68 min) W of Poprad  19  A. Bernoláka 1, Ružomberok +421 (0)44 432-1096  6 km / 3.7 miles S of Ružomberok +421 (0)918 596-432 www.vlkolinec.sk  non-stop (settlement) Mon-Fri 9:00-15:00 Sat-Sun 9:00-16:00 (museum)  €2   WC Not far from Ružomberok in the shadow of Sidorovo hill in the Artwork by Ľudovít Fulla Statue of Andrej Hlinka

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Veľká Fatra (Greater Fatra), lies Vlkolínec which has changed little since the 19th century. Vlkolínec was inscribed on UNESCO’s World Cultural and Natural Heritage List in 1993 as a well-preserved typical central-Slovak rural settlement with wooden architecture. Vlkolínec is first mentioned in 1461 but by the middle of the 16th century it still included only four farms. It peaked in 1869 when its population rose to 345. During the Slovak National Uprising, some parts of the village were burned. Historically, Vlkolínec was always an agricultural hamlet whose inhabitants also dabbled in animal husbandry, woodcutting and beekeeping. Since the village was somewhat isolated the residents had to be self-sufficient. Although today the picturesque village does look more like an open-air museum, there are still a few people living in the log houses.Today only 19 people are permanent residents of Vlkolínec, occupying six of 55 houses. Seventy-three objects were included in the Vlkolínec Monuments Fund. Its most unique constructions are a well and a belfry, both built in 1770. Another interesting structure in the village is the Farmer’s House, which features exhibits of antique furniture and tools. The Church of the Visitation of the Virgin Mary built in 1875 is one of the few buildings in the village with stone and mortar walls. One of the log homes has been turned into a souvenir shop, and accommodation is available for overnight stays. Since the village is situated on a steep slope, one car park is located in the valley below the village and a smaller one is near the entrance to the village. There are also several interesting hiking trails in the vicinity. 42 ružoMberok - Malinô brdo map E 3 86 km / 53.4 miles (63 min) W of Poprad; altitude: 545-1,209 m / 1,788-3,966 ft; Ružomberok; mountains: Veľká Fatra / Nízke Tatry www.skipark.sk Dec-Mar; cable cars: 1; ski-lifts: 6; ski slopes: 12 km / 7.4 miles; snow park; Nordic skiing; snowtubing; Tarzánia rope park; Snow Taxi night ride; accommodation options: Hotel Steve***, Hotel Hrabovo**, Dária Cottage, Boarding House ANDREJ** The Ružomberok - Malinô Brdo resort, subtitled Ski & Bike, can be found in lower Liptov, at the foothills of the Veľká Fatra mountain range. The entrance gate of the resort is in Hrabovo, a suburb of Ružomberok, just 1 kilometre from the resort.To get from Hrabovo to Malinô Brdo use the 1,770 m/5,807 ft long eight-seat cabin cableway. The surroundings offer excellent opportunities for cross- country and alpine skiing and during summer for hiking and mountain biking during the summer. For visitors there are mountain carts, mountain scooters and a rope park available. 43 ružoMberok - salaŠ krajinka (sheep farm) map E 3 89 km / 55.5 miles (60 min) NW of Poprad  Černová 556, Ružomberok; the sheep farm is on the left side, about 2 km / 1.2 miles from Ružomberok on the way to Žilina +421 (0)918 964-800 www.salaskrajinka.sk  Jan-Dec: Mon-Sun 8:00-21:00 (shop), 10:00-21:00 (restaurant)   WC The restaurant Salaš Krajinka offers more than just traditional meals based on Slovakia’s most famous cheese. Contrary to green-field sheep farms which have mushroomed in recent years, Salaš Krajinka builds directly on its tradition of sheep farming, which it has done since 1983. In Salaš Krajinka you get a first- hand look at a working sheep ranch as you fill up on the salty sheep cheese, bryndza. The restaurant offers Slovak specialities made from locally produced cheeses and lamb meat. The whole chain of handmade production follows traditional methods and its products contain no chemical preservatives, nor are they pasteurised. The atmosphere is intriguing as well. The restaurant is situated in what was once a stable and visitors can have a look at the life of sheep while eating. Donkeys and sheep graze in the meadow just a few metres from the car park. Apart from cheese, there is a bakery on the grounds offering fresh cakes and breads. northern slovakia - liPtov 151 Vlkolínec

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44 leŠTiny map E 2  91 km / 56 miles (63 min) NW of Poprad  257 +421 (0)43 589-5500  booking necessary  Sun 10:00 €2  30 mins The construction of the hilltop Articular Evangelical wooden church in Leštiny started in 1688. Based on strict rules for Protestants it was finished in one year and even today it is still used for regular Sunday services. The interior of the building includes typical flower ornaments on the walls, a baroque altar and a carved pulpit. The church was originally without a bell tower, which was added in 1777 along with a wooden staircase. Leštiny is one of the eight Slovak wooden churches that are part of UNESCO’s World Heritage List. 45 dolný kubín map E 2  98.8 km / 61 miles (72 min) NW of Poprad  19,633  Hviezdoslavovo námestie 1651/2, Dolný Kubín +421 (0)915 049-407 www.dolnykubin.sk  1.3 km / 0.8 mile N of centre Oravské múzeum (Orava Museum)  Gäceľská cesta, Dolný Kubín +421 (0)43 586- 5461   www.oravskemuzeum.sk  Mon-Fri 8:00-16:00 €1  WC Oravská galéria (Orava Gallery)  Hviezdoslavovo námestie 11, Dolný Kubín +421 (0)43 586-3212  www.oravskagaleria.sk  Tue-Sun 10:00-17:00 from €1 WC Aquapark  Športovcov 1182/5, Dolný Kubín +421 (0)43 238-8374 www.aquakubin.eu Mon- Fri 6:00-22:00 Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00 from €2.5   WC Dolný Kubín, with its 20,000 inhabitants, is the centre of the Orava region. Hviezdoslavovo Square (named after the renowned poet Pavol Ország Hviezdoslav, who lived and in 1921 died in the town) is a wide square marking the centre of town. It is flanked on one side by Renaissance and baroque houses including the former Čaplovič Library, now home to the Orava Museum. On the other side is the former county house which now holds the Orava Gallery. The gallery offers an excellent collection of the region’s fine art over the past seven centuries. The Roman Catholic Church of St Catherine of Alexandria also lies on the square as well as an Evangelical church. The Orava River flows through the centre of town. The Dolný Kubín region is surrounded by the mountains of Oravská vrchovina and Oravská Magura mountain range, which make it a favoured ski destination in the winter. Other popular attractions include a covered wooden bridge that connects the old town with the Bysterec neighbourhood, a historical graveyard and the town’s popular aqua park. 46 luČiVná (ski)  page 259 47 zázriVá (food)  page 239 48 kubínska hoľa mapE2107km/66miles(86min)NWof Poprad;altitude720-1,396m/2,362-4,580ft DolnýKubín;mountains:OravskáMagura SkiresortKubínskahoľa  www.kubinska.sk +421(0)915595-311  DolnýKubín;accommodationoptions:Park Hotel,GreenHotel This two-storey ski resort offers broad slopes with a slight incline in the lower part, where you can find a children’s school, snowpark and chairlift. The upper storey is meant for serious skiers, where a ski slope more than 4 kilometres long leads skiers from the peak to the bottom. The resort has limited accommodation. The big advantage of Kubínska hoľa is the south side ski slopes and the actual location of the Oravská Magura which provides spectacular views of the whole Orava, Low and WesternTatras plus Lesser and Greater Fatra ranges. 49 oraVskýPodzáMok (Orava Castle) W mapE2108km/67miles(80min)NWof Poprad1,309www.oravskypodzamok.sk May:Turzovskéslávnosti(summerseasonopening); June:Worldoffairytales Oravskýhrad(OravaCastle) OravskýPodzámok OravskýPodzámok0.3 km/0.2mileNWofthecastle0.5km/0.3mile SEofthecastle+421(0)43581-6111 www. oravskemuzeum.skJan-Mar,Nov-Dec10:00-15:00, Sep:8:30-17:00,Oct8:30-16:00,Apr:closedMay-Jun: 8:30-17:30,Jul-Aug:8:30-18:00from€5   WC120min WoodenraftsstartfromvillageHornáLehota (transporttoparkingplaceincluded)www.plte-orava.sk +421(0)911358-182Jul-Aug9:00-17:00;May, Jun,Sep,Oct:bookingnecessary€1260min The first written mention of Oravský Podzámok village comes from the 16th century when the proprietor of the village was György Thurzo. The main attraction for tourists visiting Oravský Podzámok is Orava Castle, which is perched high on a cliff 112 metres above the Orava River. The castle is one of the best preserved in Slovakia. Because of its historical importance, its unique construction as well as the impressive manner in which it was architecturally inte- grated into its natural setting, it was declared a national cultural monu- ment in 1961. Its construction dates to the 13th century. It was initially constructed out of wood before it was rebuilt in stone after theTartar invasion in 1241. The rocky hill became the foundations of three castles originally in the romanesque and gothic styles but later rebuilt in Renaissance, baroque and romantic styles. Through the years, the castle had many owners. The first documented proprietors were the members of the Bal- assa family from Zvolen. In 1267, the castle was overrun by King Béla IV and became a royal property. The strategic position of the castle determined its role in the defence of the road heading to Po- land. In the 14th century it became seat of the Orava County, which 152 northern slovakia - orava Photo:courtesyofSkiKubínskahoľa

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northern slovakia - orava 153 controlled almost the whole Orava region. As a part of the Hungarian Kingdom, it was a key location for the nobles ruling the region. Among the most significant leaders in those days were Máté Csák of Trenčín, Stibor from Stiborice and Peter Komorovský. In the 15th and 16th centuries, the castle underwent some structural changes. During the reign of Hungarian King Matthias Corvinus a second palace was built. In the first half of the 16th century the ownership of the castle passed into hands of Ján of Dubovec. Hoping to quell the rising threat from the Ottomans to the south, he bolstered the fortifica- tions, adding a semicircular tower to the main castle and fortifications for cannons on the grounds of the second castle. The Second Gate with loopholes and a drawbridge was added to the lower part of the castle. Construction continued into the 16th and 17th centuries when the Thurzo family gained control of the castle. A wide range of reconstruction was accomplished under the ownership of Ferenc Thurzo and later during the supervision of his son György. Under György the chapel, the gatehouse and the tower and the bastion with a tunnel were completed. After György’s death in 1616, the castle fell into the hands of his son Imre, who died suddenly at 23. In 1621 his mother Elizabeth Czobor and her daughter, took over the management of the estates. After that, with no male heir, the Thurzo line died out. In the 17th and 18th centuries the castle was a centre of the conflict between the Habsburgs and the anti-Habsburg forces. A rebellion was suppressed in 1709, leaving the castle badly damaged. In 1800, an enormous fire lasting two weeks destroyed all the wooden elements of the castle. Many years later Edmund Zichy organised a restoration project and established a museum on the site. The proprietors at that time were the Pálffy family, who partially restored some of the grounds at the beginning of the 20th century.Today Orava Castle is administratively part of the Orava Museum of P. O. Hviezdoslav in Dolný Kubín. One of the better views of the castle is from the river. The Orava River offers wooden raft trips from below the castle rock. The route starts in the village The oldest parts of the castle were built on the top of the hill in the 13th century. The Chapel of St Michael with baroque interior. Entrance to the castle. During the reign of Hungarian king Matthias Corvinus a second palace was built. The castle was built on the top of a 112-metre high hill. Wooden raft trips below the castle rock. The Palace of Ján of Dubovec. Archive Bastion. Photo:courtesyofPltenaOrave

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of Horná Lehota and lasts about one hour. Oravský Podzámok village is also noted for its beer production. The Kastelán brewery is located right under the castle. 50 sedliacka duboVá (voluntary preservation camp)  page 272 51 Podbiel (folk, rides in a tank)  page 211, 270 52 zuberec map E 2  95 km / 59 miles (76 min) NW of Poprad1,806 Hlavná289,Zuberec +421(0)43532-0777www.zuberec.sk Múzeumoravskejdediny (OravaVillageMuseum) 4km/2.5milesEofZuberec Zuberec,Brestová skanzenBrestová850,Zuberec+421(0)43 539-5149 www.muzeum.zuberec.sk Tue-Sun8:00-15:30Mon-Sun:Jun,Sep 8:00-17:00,Jul-Aug8:00-18:00€2.5   WC Zuberec is situated in the Orava region near the Polish border. The village spreads out across the Studená dolina valley at the foot of the WesternTatras. The village’s name is derived from the European bison (zubor in Slovak), which once inhabited the area. Its location in the high hills has enabled the village to become a favourite destination for hikers and skiers. Its most popular ski resorts are Janovky, Milotín and Roháče-Spálená. The village’s main attraction is the open-air Orava Village Museum with a stated aim to preserve Slovakia’s traditional wooden folk architecture. More than 50 buildings were dismantled and moved from various locations around Slovakia and reassembled here. Current exhibits include the reassembled Lower Orava Market, Zamagurská Street and Goral Hamlets. There is also the wooden Renaissance church of St Elizabeth of Hungary. Zuberec also celebrates an annual folklore festival during the first weekend of August. During the winter, Zuberec stages dogsled races organised in cooperation with the World Sled Dog Association. 53 roháČe W(hiking) page254 54 zVeroVka-sPálená (ski) page 259 55 oraVice map E 2, F 2 106 km / 66 miles (84 min) NW of Poprad www.oravice. info  on the border of Tatra National Park, mountain range: the Western Tatras Meander Thermal Park Oravice 109, Liesek +421 (0)43 539-4107 Meanderpark www.meanderthermal.com10:00- 20:00 from €9.90    WC Meander Skiparkwww.meanderskipark.com Juráňova dolina (Juráňova Valley)  2.5 km / 1.6 miles SE of Meanderpark www.naucnechodniky.sk Oravice is a significant tourism centre in the Orava region. It is an excellent stepping off point for hikers looking for interesting treks in the Juráňova, Tichá, Bobrovecká, Mihulčia and Suchá valleys. One of the most popular hikes is to the Juráňova Valley which is unique for its canyons, bridges and waterfalls. An eight-kilometre walk can be completed in around three hours. In winter this area is a popular skiing destination. The Meander Thermal Park Oravice offers geothermal pools filled with water of up to 38°C. 56 TrsTená map E 2  120 km / 75 miles (105 min) NW of Poprad  7,482 Železničiarov 253/1, Trstená +421 (0)43 532-4510 www.oravatic.sk   Kostol sv. Martina (Church of St Martin)  Bernolákova 2, Trstená +421 (0)43 532-4510 www.farnosttrstena.sk  6:00-19:00  Mon-Sat 6:00, 18:15, Sun 7:00, 8:30, 10:30 Church tower+421 (0)43 532-4510 (Infocentre) booking necessary Pottery  Železničiarov 282/27, Trstená +421 (0)43 539-2859 www.trstenskakeramika.sk  Mon-Fri 8:00-16:00  The town ofTrstená is situated in the upper part of the Orava region in the valley of the Oravica River near the border with Poland. The town was established in the 14th century and became a regional centre of trade and craftsmanship. Trstená was well known for its pottery production characterised by its unique markings and shape, which have endured to the present time.Tourists can buy pottery from local craftsmen who also offer workshops – however, in the Slovak language only. One of the more impressive sights ofTrstená is the Church of St Martin, built on the gothic foundations of the previous church, which dates from the 14th and 15th centuries. In 1641 it was rebuilt in Renaissance style. Baroque modifications were added between 1710 and 1747. The church was heavily damaged during World War II. Afterwards the tower had to be rebuilt. Four turrets were added during that reconstruction, and today the balcony tower offers an excellent view of the town.Tourists can reach it via a staircase that leads them through two floors of exhibitions. 154 northern slovakia - orava Pottery from Trstená

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northern slovakia - orava 155 57 TVrdoŠín mapE2 114km/71miles(97min)NWof Poprad9,355Vojtaššákova496,Tvrdošín+421 (0)903506-841 KostolVšetkýchsvätých(ChurchofAllSaints) Cintorínska2,Tvrdošín+421(0)43532-2167 www.tvrdosin.skTue-Sun10:00-16:00 bookingnecessaryonceayearontheAllSaints Day€1.50   OravaActionBernolákova441,Tvrdošín+421 (0)948017-291 www.oravaaction.comDrivingfour-wheelers,flyinga poweredhang-glider,watersports,paintball,archeryetc. (bookingrecommendedatleastoneweekinadvance) The small town ofTvrdošín is located at the crossroads of ancient routes near the borders of Poland and the Kingdom of Hungary. Because of its strategic location at the confluence of two rivers and its borders, the town became an important point for customs collections. The most significant site inTvrdošín is the gothic wooden Roman Catholic Church of All Saints. The church was built in the second half of 15th century then was rebuilt in the Renaissance style two centuries later. The baroque altar from the 17th century portraying the saints is of excellent quality indicating that it is probably the work of an Italian master. It is one of the highlights of the church, which is richly decorated with biblical scenes and ornamentations. The church inTvrdošín was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2008. 58 oraVská Priehrada (dam) map E 2  132 km / 82 miles (104 min) NW of Poprad Slanica; Ústie nad Priehradou or Prístav   Nábrežie 1038, Námestovo +421 (0)908 231-788 www.orava.sk    WC Slanický ostrov umenia (Slanický Island of Art)  approachable via boat OG-SLANICA from the port number 2 in the Slanica resort +421 (0)905 915-108 www.oravskagaleria.sk  May-Sep: 9:00-16:30 €4 (including boat ticket) WC  80 mins Ranč u Edyho (ranch) Nábrežie Oravskej priehrady, Námestovo www.rancuedyho.sk  The so-called Orava Sea with its 35 km² of area, is the largest manmade reservoir in Slovakia. Construction of the Orava Dam, which was built in order to generate electricity and to control floods, began in 1941 and finished in 1953. Five villages (Slanica, Lavkovo, Ústie, Osada, and Oravské Hámre) were intentionally flooded as a result of the construction. A hill on Slanický ostrov island is all that is left of the villages. A church built on the hill in the 18th century and decorated with the work of stonemason artisans in the baroque style survives as an art gallery exhibiting religious folk art. There is also an outdoor calvary amidst other outdoor art. The island can be visited via boat and is open to the public. The dam itself is also a pleasant spot for recreational activities including diving, water biking, windsurfing or sailing in resorts Námestovo, Slanica, Prístav and Ústie nad Priehradou. 59 klin mapE2 136km/85miles(108min)NWof Poprad2,215www.klin.sk SochaKrista(StatueofChrist) 2.7km/1.7miles(4min)NofKlinnon-stop Northern Slovakia is predominantly Roman Catholic. One of the most noted religious sites in the area is the Statue of Christ in the village of Klin. The statue perches on Grapa hill which rises above the town and offers a splendid view of the Orava Dam. The statue is almost 10 metres high, making it the tallest statue of Christ in Slovakia. The 23-tonne statue, which is the third copy of the famous statue in Brazil, was installed here in 2008. In front of Christ, a likeness of Pope John Paul II kneels in prayer. The chapel hill is the most popular religious pilgrimage destination in the Orava region. 60 oraVská lesná map E 2  144 km / 90 miles (113 min) NW of Poprad  3,299 www.oravskalesna.sk  Kostol sv. Anny (Church of St Anne)  Ústredie 297, Oravská Lesná +421 (0)43 559- 3114 www.oravskalesna.sk  entrance hall  Mon, Wed, Thu 6:30, 14:30 Tue 6:30, 13:00 Fri 6:30, 18:30 Sat 7:00 Sun 7:00, 9:00, 11:00  Oravská lesná železnica (Orava Forest Railway) - Station Tanečník  6 km / 3.7 miles of Oravská Lesná, linked by a paved forest path +421 (0)43 552-4891 www. oravamuzeum.sk  Jan-Dec: Mon-Fri 9:00-15:45, Sat-Sun 9:00- 17:00€4 WC Orava dog mushing and horse riding www.severkahuskyteamorava.wbl.sk +421 (0)915 037-383 Oravská Lesná village lies at the border of Poland and the Slovak regions of Orava and Kysuce. One of its attractions is the Roman Catholic Church of St Anne, built in the Carpathian secession style in 1941. Oravská Lesná is the coldest valley in Slovakia and every year the lowest temperatures in the country are measured here. Its ski resort, Orava Snow, is one of the fastest growing ski centres in Slovakia. The area is also well-known for its dogsled competitions and its unique narrow-gauge railway system. The history of the Orava Forest Railway goes back to the early 20th century, when its main purpose was to haul timber out of the valley.Today it functions only for tourists. The steam engine was manufactured in 1909 and the 3.5 kilometre ride takes about an hour.

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156 northern slovakia - kysuce 61 noVá bysTrica - VychyloVka map D 2  154 km / 96 miles (124 min) NW of Poprad  2,833 www.novabystrica.sk Vychylovka / Nová Bystrica, skanzen  Kysucké múzeum Skanzen Vychylovka (Kysuce Village Museum) +421 (0)41 439-7219 www.kysuckemuzeum.sk  May-Oct: Mon-Fri 9:00-16:15, Sat-Sun 9:00-16:45 €4    WC  June: Slovak traditions on St John’s Day; August: Folk Fest Kysucko-oravská lesná železnica (The logging switchback railway) +421 (0)41 439-7219 www.kysuckemuzeum.sk  May-Oct: Mon-Fri 9:00- 11:30 (ride every 45 minutes) 13:00-16:00 (ride every 60 minutes) Sat-Sun 9:00-11:30 (ride every 45 minutes) 13:00-17:00 (ride every 60 minutes) €4  An intriguing stop for railroad enthusiasts as well as those interested in outdoor museums (skanzens) is Nová Bystrica - Vychylovka in the Kysuce region of northern Slovakia. The Kysuce Village Museum and Historic Narrow-Gauge Forest Railway combines the best of both worlds. As is the story with many of Slovakia’s skanzens, the Kysuce Village Museum was established to save structures from Kysuce-area villages from destruction during the construction of the Nová Bystrica dam, which flooded the area during the early 1970s. The Kysuce Village Museum opened in 1981 and exemplifies life and culture from the early-19th to mid-20th centuries. The centre of the village is the Chapel of the Virgin Mary-Lady of the Rosary from Zborov nad Bystricou, an inn from the village of Korňa, and the oldest dwelling house from 1806 from Oščadnica. A total of 34 buildings capture the uniqueness of Slovak rural life and includes houses, sheds, churches, a water- driven mill with a sawmill and even pubs. These buildings, scattered on a hillside in Vychylovka, include furnishings from the period in which the structures originated. Seeing this outdoor museum requires little effort – just jump on the logging switchback railway driven by a coal- powered steam engine. It originally connected the Orava and Kysuce regions over the difficult mountain terrain. The engine pulled cars piled with timber on a narrow- gauge track that measured at one point 110 kilometres. The plan to dismantle the railway in the 1970s did not materialise, and the railway was gradually reconstructed and became an inseparable part of the open-air museum. The switchback system in Vychylovka is one of just two such systems preserved in Europe. The little engine that could climb a steep grade through a series of switchbacks moving back and forth across the mountain, climbing a total of 217.7 metres. The experience is relaxing and joyful as one leisurely rides a train that previously delivered timber to people, but now delivers people to timber. Watching the brakeman jump off the train, crank the switch, and jump back on again is an added treat. Coming down promises even more fun, depending as it does on the expertise of the crew to apply just exactly enough brake. 63 sTará bysTrica map D 2  149 km / 93 miles (121 min) NW of Poprad  2,717  Stará Bystrica 466 +421 (0)948 668-099 www.starabystrica.sk  Slovenský Orloj (Slovakia’s Astronomical Clock)  Stará Bystrica 466 +421 (0)948 668-099 www.orloj.sk   Vyhliadková veža (Observation tower)  4.7 km / 2.9 miles SE of centre of Stará Bystrica non-stop The picturesque village of Stará Bystrica is the site of Slovakia’s only astronomical clock. The clock, dedicated in 2009, is also the largest wooden statue in Slovakia. Located in the town’s central St Michael’s Square, it is housed in a wood sculpture of a seated Blessed Virgin Mary. Uniquely Slovak in nature, it sounds each hour calling seven Slovak saints to make an appearance. After catching the hourly show, another popular activity is hiking to the observation tower on the top of 723-metre tall Bobovec Mountain overlooking Stará Bystrica. Once at the summit, it is another 11 metres up the tower itself. Panoramic views of Stará Bystrica, the Lesser Fatra mountains, Martinské hole and across to the Czech Republic reward those who make the trek. 62 snowParadise Veľká raČa map D 2 Municipality: Dedovka, Oščadnica; mountains: Kysucké Beskydy www.snowparadise. sk Dec-Apr; altitude: 640-1,050 m / 2,099-3,444 ft; cable cars: 3; ski-lifts: 3; ski slopes: 14 km / 8.6 miles; bobsleight track; evening skiing; ski schools, kids ski school; accommodation options: Hotel Marlene***, Hotel Rača**, ŠPORTHOTEL Oščadnica There are actually three ski localities – Dedovka, Marguška and Lalíky, in Snowparadise Veľká Rača – and all are handily connected to each other. There are ski slopes with all degrees of difficulty from absolute beginner right up to the most demanding. There is also the Alpincoaster toboggan run, which is open during the summer and winter when the weather is good. The nearby town of Čadca offers bowling, squash and tennis. 64 TerchoVá map D 2  128 km / 79.5 miles (96 min) NW of Poprad  4,021  Ul. sv. Cyrila a Metoda 96, Terchová +421 (0)41 569-5307 www.ztt.sk   July / August: Jánošík Days; Folk festival August: Terchovský budzogáň (music festival); August: Rozmarín (country festival) Považské múzeum Juraja Jánošíka (Považské Museum of Juraj Jánošík)  Ul. sv. Cyrila a Metoda 960, Terchová +421

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northern slovakia 157 (0)918 187-679  www.pmza.sk  Sep-May: Tue-Thu 9:00-15:00 Fri-Sun 9:00-15:30; Jun-Aug: Tue-Sun 9:00-16:30 €2  WC Terchová is one of the best known villages in Slovakia as it is the birthplace of the renowned outlaw Juraj Jánošík. The villge is located in Žilina Region. The first known mention of the settlement is from the 16th century. Most of the early settlers in the village worked either in the rock quarries or at sheep farming. The tradition of sheep farming led to the production of home-made sheep cheese which continues to this day.Today, many chalets and cottages around Terchová offer demonstrations of the cheese-making process. Juraj Jánošík, the Slovak national hero, was born inTerchová in the 17th century. There are many tales of his adventures and exploits, some of which are even true. He is alternately described as a highwayman and thief or as a defender of the downtrodden and the poor. His life is documented in a museum in the centre ofTerchová. One of the best-known holdings there is an oil painting by the artist Ľudovít Fulla depicting Jánošík on a horse surrounded by a gathering of country folk. A larger-than-life silver statue of Jánošík towers above the village. Slovaks celebrate Jánošík’s birthday every year in July with a festival in Terchová. The festival offers folk music and dance as well as arts and crafts. The event consistently attracts some 70,000 visitors. The hills and mountains of the Lesser Fatra surroundingTerchová are also popular with tourists. Below the hills of Veľký and Malý Rozsutec a canyon trail follows a path navigable only through a system of ladders and chains known as Jánošíkove diery (which translates as the Jánošík’s Holes). The terrain’s bizarre and irregular shapes were formed by the Dierový Potok (the Hole Brook) and consists of waterfalls and rocky limestone gorges divided into three parts: the New Holes, Lower Holes and Upper Holes. The Vrátna dolina valley which is surrounded by the mountains Veľký Rozsutec, Stoh, Poludňový grúň, Chleb and Veľký Kriváň, is located on the periphery of Terchová village. The entrance into the valley leads through a narrow canyon with several waterfalls. The shapes of the canyon rocks bring to mind various figures including one of a priest. The picturesque scenery of the valley is a favourite centre for hikers and cyclists. During the winter Vrátna Valley turns into a popular ski resort. Skiers can choose from several slopes including Paseky, Poludňový grúň, Tížinka, Príslop, Oštiepková mulda and Chleb. 65 VráTna – FreeTiMe zone map D 2  123 km / 76 miles (98 min) NW of Poprad; altitude: 600-1,709 m / 1,967-5,607 ft; Terchová; mountain range: Malá Fatra www.vratna.sk  Dec-Apr; cable cars: 2; ski-lifts: 12; ski slopes: 14 km / 8.7 miles; cross-country skiing; free-riding; night skiing; accommodation options: Hotel Boboty ***, Hotel Diery ***, Chata Vrátna ** Thisresortisidealforthosewhocan alreadyski,butwhoalsowantto trydifficultslopes.Thecablecarto theridgeoftheLesserFatraisalsoa splendidstartformountainhiking. TheChleblocalityisfamousasa Meccaforfree-riders,secondonlyto Chopok.Thereisaccommodationin theresortandinthenearbyvillageof Terchová. 66MaláFaTra mapD2,3117km/73miles(124min)NWofPoprad Varín Hrnčiarskaulica197,Varín+421 (0)903298-130www.npmalafatra.sk Area:549km2 ;Highestpoint:VeľkýKriváň(1,710m/ 5,609.3ft) TheMaláFatra(LesserFatra)isa mountainrangeinnorth-central Slovakia.ItisSlovakia’sfourthtallest chainaftertheHighTatras,Low TatrasandOravskéBeskydy.The LesserFatraissituatedwithinthe basinsofŽilinaandTuriec.The chainisdividedintotwosections separatedbytheVáhRiver.The partoftheLesserFatraknownas Lúčanskáislocatedonthesouth sideoftheVáhwhiletheKrivánska rangeistothenorth.Thehighest peakintheLúčanskáisVeľkáLúka at1,475metres.Thehighestpeak intheKrivánskaisVeľkýFatranský Kriváňwhichis1,709metrestall. TheLesserFatraNationalParkcovers some23,000hectaresofthearea andboastsanumberoflovelyscenic valleysofwhichVrátnadolinavalley isafavouritetouristandskiresort destination.Theparkisalsoknown foritscanyonsandgorgesnamed Diery(Holes)thatareapproachable byladdersandchains.A38-metre highwaterfall,Šútovskývodopád waterfallislocatedonthesouthslopes ofthepark. 67 sTreČno W map D 3  134 km / 83 miles (101 min) W of Poprad  2,562  Námestie A. Hlinku 9, Žilina +421 (0)41 723-3186 www.strecno.sk   Hrad Strečno (Strečno Castle, ruin)  1.6 km / 1 mile NE of castle Strečno +421 (0)41 569-7400 www.pmza.sk  Apr-Sep: Mon-Sun 9:00-17:00; Oct: Mon-Sun An oil painting by the artist Ľudovít Fulla depicting Jánošík on a horse. Source: Považské Museum of Juraj Jánošík Vrátna(Photo:RomanMillan) CanyonJánošikovediery VeľkýRozsutec

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158 northern slovakia 9:00-15:00; Nov, Mar: Sat-Sun 9:00-15:00; Dec-Feb: booking necessary €5   WC Plte na Váhu (traditional wooden rafts)  Gazdovský dom, SNP 86, Strečno +421 (0)907 196-999 www.plte-strecno.sk Apr-Oct (booking nece- ssary);  50-75 mins;  €10 (passengers must meet in Pension Gazdovský dom in Strečno village) Strečno village is located between the Žilina andTuriec valleys, which are divided by the Váh River. The ruins of Strečno Castle are the dominant attraction in the village. Its foundations were laid on a high rock above an important toll road on the left bank of the Váh in the 13th century. Through the years, the stronghold had many owners, who gradually built it up to include residential premises and extensive fortifications. Among the most significant proprietors were Máté Csák ofTrenčín, the Pongrácz family, Pál Kinizsi, János Zápolya, Count Vessélenyi and his wife Zsófia Bosnyák. The castle remained functional to the end of the 17th century when it was destroyed by order of Emperor Leopold.Today, the reconstructed premises offer historical exhibits of the Považské Museum. The ruins of Starhrad, another abandoned 13th century castle, can be seen on the other side of the river. Both banks of the river can be reached by ferry. The castles can also be viewed from rafts on the river. 68 súľoV-hradná map D 3  170 km / 105.6 miles (131 min) W of Poprad  939 www.sulov-hradna.nelson.sk  Súľovský hrad (Súľov Castle) map D 3  170 km / 105.6 miles (131 min) W of Poprad  1.6 km / 1 mile SW of castle Súľov, Turistická nocľaháreň www.sulov-hradna.nelson. sk  non-stop Súľov-Hradná village is surrounded by meadows, forests and the unique Súľovské skaly cliffs. It is located in the Bytča district. The area attracts climbers and hikers and some of their skills can come in handy if they decide to explore the ruins of the 15th century Súľov Castle. The castle hangs on the hills above the village and is difficult to reach. Through the years the castle’s primary function was to defend the town and its difficult access made it almost impossible to overrun. It fell out of use in the 18th century and was eventually abandoned. An earthquake in 1858 accelerated its decline. Near the castle ruins there is a huge cave named Šarkania diera, that according to legend was once home to a dragon. Actually, the only fossil remains that have been uncovered in the cave are those of an extinct breed of bear and human bones that date to the Stone Age. The area offers cycling and cross-country skiing routes. Horseback riding is also available from a nearby ranch. 69 byTČa map D 2  163 km / 101 miles (125 min) NW of Poprad  11,318 www.bytca.sk   Bytčiansky zámok (Manor House in Bytča)   Sidónie Sakalovej 3, Bytča +421 (0)41 553-3311 www.pmza.sk www.minv.sk booking necessary Sobášny palác (Wedding Palace)  Zámocký areál, Bytča +421 (0)41 552-3027 www.pmza.sk Tue-Fri 9:00-11:30, 12:00-16:00    WC Bytča is a town in north-western Slovakia that nestles scenically between the Javorníky and Súľovské skaly hills. The first surviving written mention is from the 13th century. Much later, in 1571, Ferenc Thurzo, the town’s leading citizen, ordered work to be started on what was to become one of the most significant structures in the area, a remarkable Renaissance manor house. Thurzo did not live to see the completion of the project, but his wife Katalin Zrínyi was able to supervise the completion of the house, which included the work of many master Italian artisans. In 1574, Katalin moved in with her children. On her death, ownership fell to her son György, who added further improvements, including a spectacular Wedding Palace. The manor house. It was later the site of the trial of the notorious Blood Countess Elizabeth Báthory in 1611. The legendary Slovak outlaw Juraj Jánošík served here as a soldier a hundred years later. The estate eventually wound up in the hands of the wealthy Popper family. In the 20th century, the manor house and palace were converted into apartments and offices. In 1950 the property was acquired by the state, and in 1954 the state archive moved in. The Wedding Palace is currently administered by the Považské Museum in Žilina. It continues to serve one of its initial purposes. Three weddings are permitted there each year, the lucky couples determined by lot. The town of Bytča is also known for its brewery and a beer named Popper. Strečno Castle Strečno:traditionalrafting ManorHouseinBytča

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northern slovakia - žilina 159 1 Katedrálny chrám Najsvätejšej Trojice (Church of the Holy Trinity)  Katedrálne nám. 1, Žilina +421 (0)41 562-1312 www.tikzilina.eu Mon-Fri 7:00-19:00, Sat-Sun for services only  Mon-Fri 7:00, 12:00, 18:00, Sat 7:00, 18:00, Sun 7:00, 9:00, 10:30, 18:00 voluntary The Church of the HolyTrinity with its spire and adjacent bell tower rises above Andrej Hlinka Square and forms an important element in Žilina’s skyline. The church dates to 1400 and was built on a steep bank of the river where allegedly a castle had once stood. The three-nave church was originally gothic in style, but Renaissance features were later added. The most impressive treasures in the interior are the altar paintings of Jozef Božetech Klemens. The stand alone bell tower, Burianova veža, is 46-metre high, and is in the Renaissance style. It was built during the first half of the 16th century. From its balcony there is a view over the entire city and it once played a role in the city’s defence system.Today the church itself, with its travertine stairs and baluster railings, dating only to the mid-20th century dominates the square. A sculpture of Sts Cyril and Methodius by Ladislav Berák was unveiled on the terrace in 2000. 2 Mariánske námestie (square)  historical centre of Žilina    Mariánske Square, dating to the 14th century, lies in the centre of what is now a protected historical urban area. Unlike many Slovak town squares, the Žilina square has preserved its original shape. It is flanked by rows of Renaissance burgher houses with arcades and gothic cellars from the 16th -17th centuries. Original construction of the square began following a catastrophic fire which hit the city in 1521. A Marian column with a sculpture of the Virgin Mary stands in the centre. A double-towered baroque church and adjacent monastery built by the Jesuits are also dominant features of the square. A walk through two narrow streets, Burianova medzierka and Farská ulička, leads to the Church of the HolyTrinity and Andrej Hlinka Square. The OldTown Hall stands nearby. 3 Kostol Obrátenia sv. Pavla Apoštola (Church of the Conversion of St Paul the Apostle)  Mariánske námestie 23, Žilina +421 (0)41 507-0500 www.kapucini.sk Mon-Tue 7:00-18:00 or for services  Mon-Fri 6:00, 16:30, Sat 17:00, Sun 8:00, 10:00, 17:00 voluntary This double-tower church and adjacent monastery were built by Jesuits, who came to Žilina around 1654. The baroque church was completed in 1754 and, because the church and the monastery had to be squeezed into an already functioning city, the orientation of the church from the entrance toward the presbytery does not follow the traditional west-east direction, but was projected from east to west. The one-nave church has so-called Prussian vaults and the adjacent chapel was built in the functionalist style. Jozef Škovránek from nearby Bytča supplied decorative wall paintings in 1929 and 1930. The baroque altar features a painting by Jozef Božetech Klemens depicting the patron of the church, St Paul the Apostle.Today the complex takes up almost one entire side of the square. Its façade retains the style of the burgher houses and arcades that surround it on the square. Beneath the church and monastery the historical cellars have been preserved. These are known as the Žilina catacombs. During World War II the monastery provided shelter there for several Jewish children. The Order of Capuchin Friars Minor have been in residence since 1993. 70 žilina W map D 2  140 km / 87 miles (116 min) NW of Poprad  81,494  Námestie A. Hlinku 9, Žilina +421 (0)41 723-3186 www.zilina.sk 0.5 km / 0.3 mile SE of centre  0.9 km / 0.6 mile NE of centre  May: Old Town Celebrations; August: Mediaeval Day; September: Jašidielňa (International festival of creativity and fantasy); December: Christmas market Žilina has become well-known in recent years for the huge Kia car factory on the outskirts of the city, which has helped turn Slovakia into the world\'s largest per capita car manufacturer. The Kia operation created thousands of jobs for residents, both within its vast plant and in the countless other factories supplying parts that were spawned. In contrast to some Slovak cities, which have seemingly been frozen in time, Žilina immediately feels both alive and very much lived in. The necessities of daily existence continue apace and a dawdling tourist can quickly feel like a spare part in this bustling commercial hub. Žilina is on Slovakia\'s main east- west road and railway routes, and has good connections to nearby Poland and the Czech Republic. Radničná 25 25 25 P Jozefa Miloslava Hurbana M.R.Štefánika Kuzmányho Mydlárska Farskéschody Nám.obetíkomunizmu Napriekope DolnýVal Čepiel Kukučínova P JozefaVuruma Sládkovičova Námestie Andreja Hlinku Bottova Jezuitská Makovického DolnýVal Trojičné nám. Hodžova DolnýVal Napriekope Burianovamedzierka Kálov Napriekope Ha J.M.Geromettu Farskáulička Nabráne Štúrova Kuzmányho HornýVal Mariánske námestie HornýVal Pivovarská Pernikárska HornýVal DolnýVal Jána Kalinčiaka Národná Františkánske nám. Republiky Kuzmányho Nabráne Train station 3min Mapka_Zilina.indd 1 11. 8. 2014 14:34:31 N Marian column 2 1 5 3 4 i

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160 northern slovakia - žilina 4 Nová synagóga (Neolog synagogue) city map page 159  Kuzmányho 1, Žilina +421 (0)907 425-221    under reconstruc- tion  depends on performances www.novasynagoga.sk The neolog synagogue in Žilina is a leading example of the functionalist architectural style in Slovakia. It was designed by the prominent German architect Peter Behrens and constructed from 1928 to 1931. It served as a house of worship up to the beginning of World War II. After the war, the building had a diversified career being used at various times as a stage theatre, a concert hall, a lecture hall for University of Žilina, and eventually as a cinema. After the cinema closed in 2010, the local Jewish community which owns it, rented it (for €1 a year) to a non-governmental organisation Truc Sphérique, which has been raising money to completely reconstruct and use it as Kunsthalle (house of art). The synagogue is large and its size is further emphasised by its dome which is decorated with a huge Star of David – making it look even larger. The auditorium can hold more than 700 people. 5 Považská galéria umenia v Žiline (Art Gallery of Považie) city map page 159  M. R. Štefánika 2, Žilina +421 (0)41 562-2522  www.pgu.sk  Tue-Sat 9:00-12:00, 12:30- 17:00, Sun 10:00-12:00, 12:30-16:00 from €1  WC The Art Gallery of Považie, which is located in a building facing the Andrej Hlinka Square, is the most important art museum in Žilina. Its exhibitions emphasise the contemporary art of the 1960s, 1970s and 1980s. Apart from temporary exhibitions of new media including installations, video art, site-specific art as well as classic media, there are also two permanent exhibitions of painting, sculpture, graphics, posters and photography. After the family of the graphic artist and painter Vincent Hložník donated most of his 800 art works to Žilina Region, a permanent exhibition of his work was created in the museum’s attic. The opening of this space led to a prestigious award for the museum from the Slovak Chamber of Architects. Kostol sv. Štefana kráľa (Church of St Stephen the King)  Závodská cesta 11, Žilina +421 (0)41 723-1051 www.tikzilina.eu  for services only  Mon 18:00, Tue-Wed 7:00, Thu-Fri 18:00, Sat 7:00, Sun 8:30, 10:00voluntary  WC Within walking distance from Žilina’s centre is the district of Závodie. It contains one of the oldest and the most significant architectural structures in the area, the early-mediaeval Church of St Stephen the King. Legend has it that the Hungarian King Stephen I ordered construction of the church to mark his victory over the armies of the Polish King Bolesław the Brave, probably in 1025. Though most experts date construction much later to the late romanesque period between 1200 and 1250, the possibility of its earlier construction cannot be definitively excluded. The church’s most prized art objects are the wall paintings in its sanctuary. A series of depictions of Christ and the Apostles, which date from 1300 to 1500, are in the vault. Today, the shingled church consists of one quadratic nave that ends with a semi-cylindrical apse. An open Renaissance chapel with a stucco vault and painted façade are also on the premises. Budatínsky hrad (Budatín Castle)  Topoľová 1, Žilina +421 (0)41 500-1510   www.pmza.sk (castle) May-Sep: Tue-Sun 9:00-11:50, 12:20-16:15; Oct-Apr: Tue-Sun 9:00-11:50, 12:20-15:30 (park) May-Sep 6:00-22:00, Oct-Apr 7:00-18:00  (castle) €3; (park) free Church of St Stephen the King Photo:PeterSnadíkChurchoftheConversionofStPaultheApostle TraditionaltinkerartintheBudatínCastle

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northern slovakia - žilina 161 Budatín Castle, located about a kilometre from the Andrej Hlinka Square in the northern part of the city, was built at the confluence of the Váh and Kysuca Rivers and dates to the 13th century. Its most dominant feature is a 20-metre cylindrical tower, which is the oldest remnant of its original romanesque and early gothic architectural styles. It was rebuilt later in the Renaissance style. Early owners probably included the Balassa family as well as Máté Csák of Trenčín. The first written mention of the castle dates to 1321. During its history, castle ownership has passed through the hands of several aristocratic lines. One of the best known is the Szunyogh family, which is linked with the legend of the beautiful Catherine who was reported to be walled up in the castle by her father. The last private proprietors of the castle were the Csáky family. In 1945 the state took over the property and since 1956 it has housed the Považie Museum and includes an exhibition of traditional tinker arts and crafts. The grounds, with trees up to 250-years-old, are designed in the English style and open to the public. Drevený kostol sv. Juraja, Trnové (Church of St George in Trnové)  Cintorínska 38, Žilina, at the cemetery +421 (0)41 596-4192  booking necessary The most westerly example of wooden sacral architecture, the Roman Catholic Church of St George, is located in the cemetery of the Trnové village, on the outskirts of Žilina. The Carpathian late gothic church was built on the site of an older sacral structure around 1615. It is believed that the church in Zábrež in Orava served as its model. The church ceased to hold masses in 1994 when a walled church was built in the village. The wooden church was reconstructed in 2012 when damaged parts had to be replaced, but 80 percent of the original structure remains. Some remnants of Renaissance decorations on the flat ceiling of the presbytery have survived, but the original wooden panelling of the walls has not been preserved. The baroque altar from the early 18th century once held a sculpture of St George, but that is now kept in the parish office for security. 71 lieTaVa map D 3  153 km / 95 miles (124 min) W of Poprad  1,410  Lietavský hrad (Lietava Castle)  1.8 km / 1.1 miles SE of village Lietava +421 (0)41 723-3186 www.hradlietava.sk  non-stop The lofty ruins of the Lietava Castle are perched on a steep limestone ridge between the villages of Lietava and Lietavská Svinná, near the city of Žilina. The stronghold was built during the second half of the 13th century, most likely by the Balassa family. But that family’s reign over the castle was short. Early in the 14th century the castle was taken over by a powerful landlord, Máté Csák of Trenčín. After Csák’s death the castle fell into the hands of a progression of aristocrats including Luis of Anjou, Sigismund of Luxemburg, Matthias Corvinus, János Zápolya and Pál Kinizsi. The last significant nobleman living in Lietava was the palatine György Thurzo. The castle’s decline began in the 17th century and continued until Budatín Castle in Žilina Cylindricaltower(Photo:TASR) Photo:ManikWoodenchurchinŽilina-Trnové

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162 northern slovakia it was abandoned. Today Lietava Castle has gained new importance as one of the largest ruined castles in Slovakia. A local civic association is currently working to renovate the site and offers programmes for volunteers. 72 rajeckéTePlice W map D 3  158 km / 98.2 miles (128 min) W of Poprad  2,833  Osloboditeľov 90, Rajecké Teplice +421 (0)41 549-4368 Thermal Spa  Osloboditeľov 131/4, Rajecké Teplice +421(0)41 549-4256 www.spa.sk  Mon-Thu, Sun 9:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 9:00-23:00  from €1.7   WC Rajecké Teplice has a long and eventful history as one of central Slovakia’s preeminent recuperative spas. Since 1996 the facility has undergone a significant shift toward providing relaxation wellness visits as well as therapeutic stays. Hotel Aphrodite, the spa’s luxury four-star hotel, houses many of the medical and wellness services provided by the facility all under one roof. The interior has an ancient Greek design motif, a spacious lobby with a lobby bar, a courtyard and lounge areas. The area is so picturesque that wedding parties use it as a photo site. The lobby bar looks onto the main swimming area – two thermal baths with adjacent wellness facilities. Even the wellness centre has a bar as well as six steam baths and three saunas. The Aphrodite dining room is intimate and the food, served buffet style, is excellent. This is not your father’s recuperative medical facility. Several pensions in the town also serve spa guests. English-speakers are well served. Health and beauty services are by appointment and done by experts. The spa park, artificial lake and all, while smaller than many, is meticulously maintained, and with Žilina and Golf Park Rajec so close there is no lack of concerts, theatres, sport, and sight-seeing when not getting a massaged or heat-packed. 73 rajec mapD3164km/102miles (120min)Wof Poprad5,860 www.rajec.info August:RajecMarathon MestskémúzeumRajec (RajecTownMuseum) NámestieSNP2/2,Rajec+421(0)41542-2067 www.rajec.infoSep16-Jun14:Tue-Fri 10:00-12:00,13:00-16:00;Jun15-Sep15:Tue-Fri 10:00-12:00,13:00-16:00,Sun14:00-18:00€1  WC Kostolsv.Ladislava(ChurchofStLadislaus) NámestieA.Škrábika41,Rajec+421(0)41 542-2311www.rajec.infoMon-Fri5:40-17:00 (entrancehall)Mon-Thu6:10,18:15,Fri17:00,Sat 18:15,Sun8:00,9:30,11:00 Rajec is the oldest settlement in the Rajecká dolina valley. It draws its name from the nearby river Rajčanka. The town is situated between the Súľov Hills and the Lesser Fatra mountain chain. The first written mention of the village dates to the reign of King Béla III in the 12th century. The Roman Catholic Church of St Ladislaus, built in the 14th century, is Rajec’s most notable religious monument. In the main square, the Renaissance town hall, built in the 16th century, is among Rajec’s most remarkable sights. In past times, the arcades were used by vendors to ply their wares on market days. The historic building from the 17th century in front of the town hall is the home of the Rajec Town Museum. It offers expositions of local nature and culture. During the summer the Veronika swimming pool area is a favourite destination for swimmers. 74 golF Park rajec map D 3  169 km / 105 miles (143 min) W of Poprad  5,860  located 8 km W of Rajec in direction to Považská Bystrica +421 (0)917 477-235 www.golfparkrajec.sk  8:00-19:30 Mon-Fri from €23 (Sat-Sun from €29)   WC An easy half-hour drive from Žilina (27 km) and only 187 km from Bratislava, Golf Park Rajec, a nine-hole, par 31, 1871 m (2,046 yd.) course is beautifully situated in a very green and rural valley. After 10 years spent securing the land rights, the course opened in 2008. Short but well designed, Golf Park Rajec favours the accurate golfer over the big hitter. Spread across meadowland in undulating terrain, the course offers a number of surprises. There are three water hazards artfully woven into the 4th , 7th and 8th holes. Bunkers guard the approaches to holes 2, 3, 4, and 9. The course is efficiently laid out giving players many opportunities to let their eyes wander to the rich green foliage on the surrounding hills shimmering in the breeze. Easily walked – hole to tee box routes are short – Rajec may be used by some as a course to bolster handicap, but it is also a place to really enjoy the game of golf. It is pretty and as stress-free as a golf course can ever be. Like most Slovak golf courses, Golf Park Rajec provides a teaching facility for its players seeking to learn and to improve their games. In addition to a driving range across the road from the course, there are practice greens, chipping greens and practice fairways. The clubhouse features decent food and drink as well as a full line of golf supplies. A number of nearby accommodations offer golf packages. 75 rajecká lesná mapD3170km/105.6miles(140min)SWof Poprad1,214www.rajeckalesna.org BazilikaNarodeniaPannyMárie (ChurchoftheNativityoftheVirginMary) RajeckáLesná84+421(0)41548-8134 www.rajeckalesna.orgMon-Sun9:00-17:00 Mon-Thu18:00,Fri11:00,18:00,Sat7:30,Sun7:30, 11:00,16:00 WC SlovenskýBetlehem (CarvedWoodenNativityScene) RajeckáLesná84+421(0)41548-8134 www.rajeckalesna.orgTue-Sat9:00-11:30,13:00- 17:30,Sun9:30-10:30,13:00-16:00  WC Photo:courtesyofGolfParkRajec

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Rajecká Dolina Valleyan attractive and accessible year-round destination for everybody Rajecká Dolina – patenteD by natuRe accessible year round are: the APHODITE spa; wellness centres in the Skalka and Diplomat hotels in Rajecké Teplice; unique museum exhibits in Čičmany, Rajec and Rajecké Teplice; and hand-carved wooden nativity scenes. Visitors can also enjoy their time in a 3D golf simulator or bowling. Winter patented by nature. Ski Javorinka Čičmany – an ideal ski resort for the whole family. For beginning skiers, Rajecká Dolina offers skiing in the municipality of Rajecká Lesná. Summer patented by nature. Summer done several ways: rock climbing, rowing on a swan lake, parks, the thermal pool Laura, the Veronika pool, tennis courts, hiking and cycling paths and the GOLF PARK RAJEC golf course. SeRviceS, eventS anD moRe. In Rajecká Dolina you will find two categories of accommodation facilities that can satisfy even the most demanding clientele. Thematic restaurants, traditional chalets and unique gastronomy facilities offer the delicacies of this region. Also, numerous souvenir shops sell special traditional crafts, like wooden mugs or handmade leather bracelets. Throughout the year, Rajecká Dolina offers a wide variety of cultural, social, culinary and athletic events, many of which are already quite popular among visitors. These especially include our Summer Festivities in Rajecké Teplice, Rajec Marathon, Rajec Market, Shrove Carnival in Ďurčiná, Rajecká Lesná, Fačkov and Čičmany, and many more. We want to share with you, dear visitor, at least a few morsels from the bread of our region. Please accept our invitation to see the most beautiful and fascinating locations in Rajecká Dolina. You can find more information at www.rajeckadolina.sk. We look forward to welcoming you! SP013314/001

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The village of Rajecká Lesná is situated near Kľak hill in Žilina Region. Records of the village date to the 15th century. Since the 16th century, it has been a destination point for numerous Christian pilgrims. They come to view the gilded statue of the Virgin Mary with the Infant Jesus. The largest pilgrimage occurs September 8, on the feast day commemorating the birth of the Virgin Mary. Originally the statue was placed in a 13th century church. However, today only the sanctuary of that church has survived and the statue can be viewed in the Church of the Nativity of the Virgin Mary, which was built in the 19th century. Another attraction in the village is the complex nativity scene Slovak Bethlehem with moving parts, designed by woodcarver Jozef Pekara from RajeckéTeplice. It took him 16 years to complete the project, which he finished in 1997. The carving is 8.5 metres long, 3 metres high and 2.5 metres wide. It consists of some 300 figures, half of which are movable. Rajecká Valley is also reckoned to have some of the best water in the country and this is why traditional soft drinks like Kofola, Vinea and Rajec are produced in the factory directly in Rajecká Lesná. 76 ČiČMany W map D 3  178 km / 111 miles (142 min) SW of Poprad  170 www.cicmany.viapvt.sk   May: Ej, ktože to fujerá (teaching people to play the shepherd’s pipe); July-August: Creative craft workshops; September: Nationwide meeting of shepherd’s pipe players Radenov dom a Dom číslo 42 (House of Raden and House number 42)  Čičmany 137 +421 (0)918 187-683  www.pmza.sk  Jun-Aug: Mon-Fri 9:00-15:30, Sat-Sun 8:00-16:30; Sep-May: Tue-Fri 9:00-15:30, Sat-Sun 8:00- 16:30 €2   WC Čičmany, located in the heart of Strážovské vrchy mountains, is known for its remarkable folk influence, and wooden architecture, which features white ornaments painted on the outer walls of log houses. In 1921 most of the village was destroyed by a fire. It was prominent Slovak architect Dušan Jurkovič who at the beginning of his career took inspiration from folk architecture and led a campaign to restore the village and eventually, with support of the State Monument Board, was able to bring back some of the original atmosphere. Before the fire the houses were decorated with clay or lime paintings, but under the reconstruction they have gained a new complexity.Today the log houses are decorated with white ornamental patterns inspired also by Renaissance embroidery styles. The exteriors reflect various illustrations of geometric shapes, animals, and arrows. A local culture exhibition is displayed in one of the restored cabins and an example of typical multi-generational village from the 20th century can be found in another. Both houses are part of the Považské Museum in Žilina. 77 ValČianska dolina (ski)  page 260 78 MarTinské hole (ski)  page 261 79 MarTin map D 3  123 km / 76 miles (92 min) W of Poprad  57,428  Andreja Kmeťa 22, Martin +421 (0)43 423-8776 www.martin.sk  0.8 km / 0.5 mile SW of centre May: Night of Museums and Galleries; June: Martin City Days; July: World Aeromodeling Championships for RC Gliders; August: Scénická žatva (festival of amateur theatre) The town of Martin is the centre of theTuriec region and reached its greatest importance in the middle of the 19th century when it became the centre of political activities that led to the Slovak national emancipation. In 1861, a forum of Slovak patriots, the Slovak National Assembly, gathered in Martin and adopted the Memorandum of the Slovak Nation, under which it demanded recognition of the Slovak language and rights for the education of Slovaks and actually proposed a limited form of autonomy in the framework of the then Kingdom of Hungary. The cultural and national heritage organisation, Matica Slovenská, which served also as a national library, was launched here in 1863. Also today Martin remains the headquarters of many national and cultural institutions as well as housing one of the best medical schools in Slovakia. Matica Slovenská  Námestie J. C. Hronského 1, Martin +421 (0)43 245-1131 www.snk.sk  Mon 8:00- 14:45, Tue-Fri 9:00-19:30, Sat 8:00-14:45  free    WC Matica Slovenská is the Slovak national cultural heritage organisation. Its main seat is in Martin and there are branch offices across Slovakia. The establishment of Matica Slovenská was directly linked to emancipation efforts of the Slovak nation and the Memorandum of the Slovak Nation adopted in 1861, which sought a framework for autonomy within the Kingdom of Hungary. Matica Slovenská was officially created on August 4, 1863. Its goals were to support Slovak literature, publishing, education, science and art. The Hungarian government forcibly shut the institution down in 1875, 164 northern slovakia Čičmany CarvedWoodenNativityScene

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arguing that it was anti- government and anti-patriotic. It reopened in 1919 after the first Czechoslovak Republic was established. Matica Slovenská remains in operation, but its prestige has become marginal amid mingling with nationalist politics. Národný cintorín (National Cemetery)  Sklabinská street, Martin +421 (0)43 420-4221 www.snk.sk  Mon-Sun 7:00-21:00  free  The National Cemetery in Martin is the resting place of many significant Slovak figures from science, literature, fine arts and politics. It was officially consecrated at the beginning of the 19th century but its history goes back to the end of the 18th century. At the end of the 19th century, Martin was the centre of Slovak historical, cultural and political life and the National Cemetery thus remains there. The cemetery was declared a national cultural site in 1967. About 400 significant Slovaks from across the country are buried there. The cemetery’s tranquil atmosphere, along with many gravestones of high artistic quality, offer an interesting walk through Slovakia’s history. Slovenské národné múzeum (Slovak National Museum)  Malá Hora 2, Martin +421 (0)43 413- 1011  www.snm.sk  Tue-Fri 9:00-17:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-18:00 €2   WC The formation of the Slovak National Museum is closely linked to the Slovak Museum Society established in 1893. The primary goal of this institution was to set up a national network of museums and to create a national library. Since its beginning, museum officials have collected ethnographic, archaeological, historical, artistic, numismatic and other materials. These large collections led to the construction of the first building of the Slovak National Museum. The first public exhibitions were offered in 1908. Later the museum’s headquarters was moved to Bratislava. Today the Slovak National Museum consists of 18 specialised museums with branches across the country. In Martin, there are seven museums: the Ethnographic Museum, the Andrej Kmeť Museum, the Museum of the Slovak Village, the Karol Plicka Museum, the Martin Benka Museum, the Museum of Czech Culture in Slovakia and the Museum of Roma Culture in Slovakia. All hold permanent collections and offer special exhibitions from time to time. Múzeum slovenskej dediny (Museum of the Slovak Village)  Jahodnícke Háje, Martin +421 (0)43 423-9491  www.skanzenmartin.sk  Nov-Apr: Tue-Fri, Sun 10:00-14:30; May-Jun: Tue-Sun 9:00-18:00; Jul-Aug: 9:00- 18:00; Sep-Oct: Tue-Sun 9:00-17:00 €2   WC The open-air Museum of the Slovak Village is one of the seven branches of the Slovak National Museum in Martin. Its ethnographic exhibition is the largest in Slovakia. Since the first objects were brought from the Orava region between 1972 and 1974, it has continued to expand and its entire collection has been open to the public since 2004. Throughout the year it offers many thematic events based on Slovak history. The Museum of the Slovak Village presents buildings, houses and the way of life in Slovakia from the second half of the 19th century to the first half of the 20th century. There are more than 140 mostly wooden buildings which were transported from four regions of Slovakia (Orava, Liptov, Kysuce and Turiec). Tourists are able to get an idea of the traditional architecture, culture and way of life in northwestern Slovakia. An original pub from Oravská Polhora serves refreshments to visitors. 80 sklabinský PodzáMok map D 3  122 km / 75.8 miles (88 min) W of Poprad  195 Sklabinský hrad (Sklabiňa Castle)  the castle’s entrance is about 0.5 km / 0.3 mile from the bus stop Sklabinský Podzámok  non-stop  free www.hradsklabina-donjon.sk Sklabiňa Castle, with ruins that peak over the small village of Sklabinský Podzámok near Martin, is the largest and best- preserved castle in the Turiec region. The castle, which dates to the 13th century, was built on the hill to guard a major trade route. It was subsequently rebuilt and extended several times, but it ceased to serve its original function and began to decay in the 18th century. Only parts of the castle chapel, manor house, bastions, and other buildings remain. Still, architectural elements of the gothic and Renaissance styles are visible and the ruins are accessible to visitors. At present the castle is being reconstructed by a civic association, which also operates a local museum. Volunteers may easily join this small community and help with the daily works. 81 TurČianske TePlice (spa)  page 225 82 Veľká FaTra (ski, hiking)  page 254 northern slovakia 165 Painting in the Martin Benka Museum

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