Spectacular Slovakia - výber strán

Includes pull-out map slovakiatravel guide SPECTACULAR SLOVAKIA content advisor

Bojnice Castle The annual coronation ceremony Hronsek Štiavnické vrchy Banská Bystrica How to use this guide 2 Seven day itinerary 4 Slovakia’sTOP 10 5 History 6 Changing Slovakia 12 Personalities 16 UNESCO 20 Sight by sight Bratislava 26 Bratislava Region 45 Western Slovakia 60 Central Slovakia 96 Northern Slovakia 118 Eastern Slovakia 166 Feature section Castles 200 Slovak art 204 Folklore 209 Gothic architecture 212 Religion 214 Wooden churches 216 Jewish heritage 220 Spas 223 Wine 228 Beer & Spirits 232 Food 234 Agritourism 238 Animal watching 240 Horses 242 Cycling 245 Rafting 249 Hiking 252 Caves 256 Skiing 259 Aqua 262 Best deals 265 Extreme - heights 268 Speed, army 270 Out of the city 272 Luxury 274 Golf 276 Genealogy 280 War 282 Mines, technical monuments 285 Industrial tours 288 Economy 290 Basics for tourists Language (inside front cover) Souvenirs 294 Events 294 Travellers’ needs 300 Restaurants 302 Index (inside back cover) Pull-out map (inside back cover) CONTENTS

tRaVel GuiDe speCtaCulaR sloVaKia www.spectator.sk © 2014 The Rock, s.r.o.; address: The Rock, s.r.o. Lazaretská 12, 811 08 Bratislava, Slovakia. publisher: Ján Pallo; editor-in-chief: Beata Balogová; editor: Benjamin Cunningham; Cover photo: Spiš Castle and the High Tatras (Peter Baňas); layout: Peter Malatinec, Miroslav Čech, Ján Pallo Content advisor: Slovak Tourist Board (SACR); partners: Bratislava Tourist Board, Bratislava Region Tourism, Slovnaft authors and contributors: Beata Balogová, Nadia Beard, Tímea Becková, Benjamin Cunningham, Roman Cuprik, Michaela Džome- ková, Beata Fojtíková, Michaela Gedaiová, Miroslava Germanová, Kristína Hamárová, Jozef Hámorský, Lenka Hudáková, Monika Kacejová, Kristína Krupčíková, Filip Lehotský, Jana Liptáková, Martin Majdák, Zuzana Matkovská, Karina Miartanová, Radka Minarecho- vá, Peter Nagy, Lukáš Onderčanin, Ján Pallo, Jitka Parobeková, Michaela Pástorová, Ján Pestún, Martina Raabová, Lucia Rusnáková, Lenka Sabová, Natália Semianová, Donald Stoll, Patricia Stoll, Howard Swains, Michaela Terenzani, James Thomson, Alica Tkáčová, Zuzana Vilikovská, Viktória Vincejová, Carmen Virágová photos: Peter Baňas, Nadia Beard, Tímea Becková, Tomáš Benedikovič, Miroslava Cibulková, Roman Cuprik, Yuri Dojc, Eva Dučaiová, Dušan Dudík, Michaela Džomeková, Pavol Funtál, Michaela Gedaiová, Miroslava Germanová, Michal Glonek, Noro Halabuk, Kristína Hamárová, Katarína Hudačinová, Lenka Hudáková, Peter Jánošdeák, Kristína Krupčíková, Gabriel Kuchta, Sanela Kurtek, Filip Lehotský, Jana Liptáková, Manik, Zuzana Martinková, Zuzana Matkovská, Cyril Meňuš, Karina Miartanová, Roman Millan, Radka Minarechová, Miriam Molnár, Peter Nagy, Lukáš Onderčanin, Ján Pallo, Jitka Parobeková, Chris Perkins, Jaroslav Pilát, Christian Prandl, Martina Raabová, Erik Rédli, Michal Rengevič, Amanda Rivkin, Lucia Rusnáková, Lenka Sabová, Martin Sárossy, Natália Semianová, Stanislava Smadišová, Martina Smolková, Peter Snadík, Tibor Somogyi, Jaroslav Stankovič, Donald Stoll, Patricia Stoll, Ján Svrček, Howard Swains, Vladimír Šimíček, Viera Šramková, Miro Švec, Emanuele Terenzani, James Thomson, Lukáš Varšík, Jana Vašašová, Viktória Vincejová, Carmen Virágová, Gabriela Zigová; media: Korzár, SITA, SME, TASR photo permissions from companies and institutions: Abeland, Amade Château, AquaCity Poprad, Balónová fiesta, Black River Golf Resort, CBS Maľované mapy , Dubova Colonorum, EnjoyRacing, Ernest Zmeták Art Gallery Nové Zámky, Galéria mesta Bratislavy, Galéria Jána Koniareka, Golf International, Golf Park Rajec, Gray Bear Golf Resort, Historické múzeum - Slovenské národné múzeum, Hubert, J&J Ostrožovič, Košice Gurmán Fest, Maratónsky klub Košice, Milosrdné sestry Svätého kríža, Múzeum Stará Ľubovňa, Múzeum Bojnice - Slovenské národné múzeum, Múzeum mesta Bratislavy, National Science and Technology Medals Foundation, Park Snow Donovaly, Penati Golf Resort, Plte na Orave, Privat Juma, Ranč u Trapera, Simplicissimus vydavateľstvo, Skalica Golf Resort, Ski Kubínská hoľa, Slovakia Ring, Slovenská národná galéria, Slovenská správa jaskýň, Slovenské elektrárne, Slovenské národné múzeum, Smolenice village, Sosna, Spa Piešťany, Spa Rajecké Teplice, Spa Sklenené Teplice, Sygic, TIC Senec, Tatry Mountain Resorts, Volkswagen Slovakia, Východoslovenské múzeum, White Eurovalley Golf Park, www.slovakmountainguide.sk, XCHNG, Zaježová, Židovské komunitné múzeum Copy editors: Benjamin Cunningham, Russel Lunday, Donald Stoll, Patricia Stoll, Jeff Whiteaker; maps: CBS Painted maps (CBS Maľované mapy), Kartografie HP. Drawings of architectural monuments are the work of the following authors: Bratislava Castle, construction and drawing Bouda a Masár architektonická kancelária, s.r.o.; St Martin’s Cathedral, digital drawings Vojtech Jakab, architecture student; Old Town Hall, construction and drawing Martina Poláková, architecture student; creative design Pavol Martinický, architect; change of proportions and structures Peter Horanský, conservationist; Primate’s Palace, construction and drawing Tomáš Flak, design student; Jelka – Watermill on Posts, construction and drawing Gabriel Gyenes, architecture student; Častá – Castle Červený Kameň, construction and drawing Michal Škrovina jun., architect; Topoľčianky – Manor House, construction and drawing Miroslava Kemeňová, architecture student; Svätý Anton – Manor House, digital imaging Lukáš Cesnak, architecture student; creative finishing and changes Iveta Chovanová, architect; finishing Peter Horanský, conservationist. All other historical monuments are done by Matúš Pniak based on photos by CBS Painted maps (CBS Maľované mapy) and Fly media. ISBN 978-80-971719-0-2 Region colour codes Bratislava Region (pages 26 – 59) Western Slovakia (pages 60 – 95) Central Slovakia (pages 96 – 117) Northern Slovakia (pages 118 – 165) Eastern Slovakia (pages 166 – 197) P o

8 history Bratislava’s advantageous location on the banks of the Danube, and its close proximity to Vienna and Budapest, has made it one of the most important cities in central Europe for hundreds of years, especially during the period of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Indeed, the single most significant period in Bratislava’s history was from 1563-1830, when it became the coronation city of the Hungarian Kingdom. At the time, Bratislava was a well-developed, multilingual city, with a population comprised of a German-speaking majority and solid minorities of Hungarians and Slovaks. Society was divided into several classes: the upper aristocratic class provided the secular and ecclesiastical authorities, but the middle and lower classes remained strong, comprised as they were by the craftsmen and merchants crucial to the city’s business development, as well as servants and manual labourers. There were many job opportunities in Bratislava and in local vineyards, and it attracted workers from far and wide. capital ofthEEmpirE Bratislava’s fame rapidly grew after the Battle of Mohács in 1526, when Sultan Suleiman I defeated King Louis II of Hungary. In the aftermath of the battle, the Ottoman army occupied the Hungarian capital Buda as well as the primary coronation city of the kingdom, Székesfehérvár. In 1543, the displaced rulers of a newly founded empire made Bratislava its capital. While besieged by the Ottomans, it was never conquered. In 1563, the new King Maximilian II became the first Hungarian monarch to be crowned in St Martin’s Cathedral in Bratislava, and the church would continue to serve the same function for nearly 300 years. Even today, it still has a 300 kilogramme gilded copy of St Stephen’s crown (the Holy Crown of Hungary) at the top of its cathedral tower. After the era of coronations in Bratislava ended, the crown jewels were moved from the city. At the moment, the original crown is in Hungary, while Bratislava has only a copy. The gothic St Martin’s Cathedral is now one of the most popular sites on the Bratislava tourist trail, and contains numerous fascinating artefacts in its main building and catacombs. There is a permanent exhibition of relics and liturgical objects that were once used in the coronation ceremonies, as well as a list on the cathedral wall of the 19 monarchs – ten kings, one queen and eight consorts – who were crowned there. mariathErEsa The only queen on the list is, of course, Maria Theresa, who was the centre of the kingdom Crowds packed the Bratislava streets for the coronation procession Small crowns mark the route of the coronation march in Bratislava Photo:CourtesyofGalériamestaBratislavy

history 9 crowned in 1741 and would become one of the most significant figures in central European history. Maria Theresa acceded to the throne after the death of her father, Charles VI, but only after he had successfully campaigned for what became known as the Pragmatic Sanction of 1713, which allowed a female to inherit the possessions of the Habsburgs. Although Maria Theresa took charge of the empire as it was still recovering from the plague epidemic of 1712, and her rule was blighted by conflicts in the region, including the war of Austrian Succession (1740-48) and the Seven Years’ War (1756-63), her influence over the empire was largely positive. Bratislava, in particular, underwent a period of significant economic and social improvement. “Maria Theresa is interesting for being an enlightened ruler; she made several appealing changes,” said the historian Pavel Dvořák. “For example, she introduced compulsory school attendance and forbade torture.” march through history These days, the royal history of Bratislava is best remembered by the annual coronation march through the city, which remains as close as possible to the route taken by the Hungarian monarchs on their coronation day. The new monarch would have led a parade on foot through the streets, via the Main Square and past Maximilian’s Fountain, which was placed there in 1572. The tour continued into the Franciscan Church, where the king or queen would confer on selected noblemen the prestigious Order of the Golden Spur. The procession would then proceed along Michalská Street towards Michael’s Gate, where the monarch would climb aboard a waiting charger and gallop to the coronation mound on the banks of the Danube. He or she would wave his sword to the north, east, south and west, promising to defend his kingdom from all directions. In those days, the route would have been covered by red canvas, which was torn down by citizens after the celebration. Today’s residents of Bratislava get to enjoy the festivities every year, in June, when actors play the parts of the courtiers and monarchs, dressed in period costume. “It is good that Bratislava remembers its history,” said Dvořák. “A lot of buildings from that era have been demolished, such as the towns’ gates, and old buildings have been replaced by new ones. There were even plans to bring down Bratislava Castle during the first republic [1918-1939]. This is why it is very important to recall the glorious times of Bratislava.” By Carmen Virágová MoNArChS CrowNeD iN BrAtiSlAVA 1563 – King Maximilian ii and his wife, Mary of the Spain 1572 – rudolf ii 1608 – Matthias ii 1613 - Anne of tirol, wife of Matthias ii 1618 – ferdinand ii 1622 - eleonora Gonzaga of Spain, second wife of ferdinand ii 1638 – Maria Anna of Spain, first wife of ferdinand iii 1647 – ferdinand iV habsburg 1655 – Maria eleonora Gonzaga, third wife of ferdinand iii 1655 – leopold i 1687 – Joseph i 1712 – Charles iii 1714 – elisabeth Christine of Brunswick-wolfen- büttel, wife of Charles iii 1741 – Maria theresa 1790 – leopold ii 1808 – Maria ludovika of Austria-este, third wife of francis ii 1825 – Caroline Augusta of Bavaria, fourth wife of francis ii 1830 – ferdinand V 25 25 25 P Obchodná Bus station 17 min Primaciálne nám. Zámocká Zelená Hurbanovo nám. Klariská Michalská Prepoštolská Františ.nám. Farská Riečna Gorkého Zámočnícka Jesenského Paulínyho Vajanského nábrežie Kúpeľná Uršulínska Štúrova Škarniclova Klobučnícka Zochova Palisády Sedlárska Veterná Bradlianska Svoradova Kamennénám. Panská Strakova Nám. SNP Rybnénám. Panská Ventúrska Kozia HviezdoslavovonámestieRudnayovo nám. Fajnorovo nábr. Rigeleho Heydukova Františkánska Navŕšku Kapitulská Biela MostSNP Kolárska Dunajská Poštová Staromestská Jedlíkova Rybárskabr. Dvořákovo nábrežie Rázusovo nábrežie Palackého Laurinská Mostová Tobrucká Drevená Hlavné nám. Radničná Baštová Nedbalova Župné nám. Medená Staromestská Staromestská Medená NedbalovaZámocká Podjavorinskej Vodnývrch Žižkova PilárikovaŽidovská Židovská Mikulášska Beblavého Konventná Suchémýto Train station19 min a.indd 1 3. 9. 2014 3:28:15 Coronation mound the route taken by monarchs on their coronation day

1 Mestský hrad (Town Castle) Námestie Štefana Moyzesa, Banská Bystrica 1a Kostol Nanebovzatia Panny Márie (Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary)  Námestie Štefana Moyzesa 1, Banská Bystrica +421 (0)48 412-4531  exterior views only  Mon-Fri 12:00, 16:30 Sat 16:30 Sun 7:00, 8:30, 11:00, 16:30 1b Matejov dom (House of Matej)  Námestie Štefana Moyzesa 20, Banská Bystrica +421 (0)48 412-5577  www.ssmuzeum.sk  Tue-Fri 10:00-18:00 Sat-Sun 14:00-18:00  Tue-Fri 9:00-17:00 Sat-Sun 13:00- 17:00 €2.5    WC 1c Kostol sv. Kríža (Church of the Holy Cross)  Námestie Štefana Moyzesa +421 (0)48 412-4531  exterior views only  Mon-Sat 6:30 Sun 9:45 1d Stará radnica - Pretórium (Old Town Hall)  Námestie Štefana Moyzesa 25, Banská Bystrica +421 (0)48 470-1613  www.ssgbb.sk  Tue-Fri 10:00-17:00 Sat-Sun 10:00-16:00 €2  WC 1e Barbakan (Barbican)  Námestie Štefana Moyzesa 26, Banská Bystrica www.bystrickybarbakan.sk  WC  Mon-Fri 12:00, 16:30 Sat 16:30 Sun 7:00 TheTown Castle was once a church that was protected by fortifications and a moat. At one time Banská Bystrica was a prosperous mining town, and the castle was built to protect the income from precious metal mining. The castle was not built on a hill like most castles but was incorporated into the centre of the city. The castle was constructed around the Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary in the 15th century. Its fortifications were extended several times and new structures were added. Only about a quarter of the fortification walls have survived the rigors of time and battle, but there are many interesting nearby sites, including: the gothic House of Matej from 1479; the Slovak Church, also called the Church of the Holy Cross, from the late 15th century; the Renaissance OldTown Hall, called Praetorium; and the entrance gate with an impressive tower (called the Barbican) from 1512. Today the OldTown Hall houses exhibitions of the Stredoslovenská galéria (Central Slovak Gallery) and the House of Matej hosts a permanent exhibition about the history of the city prepared by the Stredoslovenské múzeum (Central Slovak Museum). In the Barbican there is a restaurant and a café. The oldest part of the town castle is the Catholic Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. It was built by Germans in the 13th century in a late romanesque style and reconstructed in gothic in the 14th century. In the 15th century it was fortified. Initially a cemetery surrounded the grounds, then later a romanesque charnel house, which survived into the 19th century. The main altar, the work of Master Paul of Levoča, was destroyed in a fire in 1761 and later replaced by a baroque piece. An altar dedicated to St Barbara, from Master Paul’s workshop, completed in 1509, has been preserved. The frescoes of the saints and the original 1770 baroque vault as well as a late gothic sculpture of Christ on the Mount of Olives from the 1 Banská Bystrica W map E 3 210 km / 131 miles (117 min) NE of Bratislava  80,003  Námestie SNP 1, Banská Bystrica +421 (0)48 415-5085; +421 (0)907 846-555 www.banskabystrica.sk   1.5 km / 0.9 mile E of centre  May: United Europe Jazz Festival; July: Outbreak Europe (Hip-Hop Festival); September: B. Bystrica Town Days; October: Bábkarská Bystrica (festival of puppet theatre); December: Christmas market The City under the Urpín mountain, as Slovaks refer to Banská Bystrica, was once along with Banská Štiavnica and Kremnica, one of the three wealthiest mining towns in central Slovakia. The history of the city is similar to that of other mining towns which were settled by German colonists. The first written mention of the town also relates to mining. In 1255 Hungarian King Béla IV granted a deed giving German settlers the right to mine gold, silver and other metals. The immense wealth arising from mining is still reflected in the architecture of the city, most notably in the town castle, the Church of the Assumption of theVirgin Mary, the old town hall, the remaining vestiges of the fortifications, and the main square. The square is flanked by gothic and Renaissance burgher houses and in its upper section, the leaning clock tower and the Marian column. Because of its unique architecture it was declared a preserved urban reserve in 1955, the first town so designated in Slovakia. The town played a significant role in the Slovak National Uprising (SNP), when the armed resistance against the Nazi occupation ignited here on August 29, 1944. The SNP Museum, documenting the events of anti-fascist revolt, is also located in Banská Bystrica. Banská Bystrica is the capital of Banská Bystrica Region, and is the site of the Matej Bel University. Many factories and a rich cultural life continue to make Banská Bystrica lively and interesting. The city is also known for its brewery and beer named Urpiner. 98 central slovakia - banská bystrica Old Town Hall Barbakan 1d 1e Altar dedicated to St Barbara HouseofMatejandChurchoftheHolyCross

early 16th century are worth seeing. The church continues to offer masses on a regular basis. 2 Hodinová veža (Clock Tower)  Námestie SNP 24, Banská Bystrica +421 (0)48 415-5085  Mon-Sun: 10:00-19:00 €1 At the top of the square there is the yellow-fronted clock tower from the 16th century, which has two clock-faces and a narrow balcony beneath its black and gold domed cap. As a result of the collapse of a neighbouring building, the tower leans to the left by 68 centimetres in a rather disturbing manner. It offers a panoramic view of the town and surrounding valley. It was reopened after reconstruction in August 2014. 3  Thurzov dom (Thurzo’s House)  Námestie SNP 4, Banská Bystrica +421 (0)48 412-5897  www.ssmuzeum.sk  Tue-Fri 10:00-18:00 Sat-Sun 14:00-18:00  Tue-Fri 9:00- 17:00 Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00 €2.5  WC Some of the burgher houses on the square are decorated with stucco and sgraffito façade. One of the most beautiful houses, the green-faced Thurzo\'s House, contains the Stredoslovenské múzeum (the Museum of Central Slovakia). The house was the former headquarters of the Thurzo-Fugger copper mining company from 1492 to 1540. The exhibition on the history of Banská Bystrica includes a large collection of archaeological exhibits, mediaeval arms, coins, and copies of historical documents. A special place is devoted to gothic art, mining, guilds, and crafts. 4 MúzeumSlovenskéhonárodnéhopovstania (Museum of the Slovak National Uprising)  Kapitulská 23, Banská Bystrica +421 (0)48 412-3258; +421 (0)48 245-1124; +421 (0)918 899-430  www.muzeumsnp.sk  May-Sep: Tue-Sun 9:00-18:00; Oct-Apr: Tue-Sun 9:00-16:00 €2    WC The distinctive grey building, designed by Dušan Kuzma and completed in 1969, is divided into two parts connected by a bridge. The gap represents the Slovak National Uprising (SNP) as a milestone in the life of the Slovak nation during World War II. Slovakia was a satellite of Nazi Germany when on August 29, 1944 the SNP erupted into a revolt against the Nazis. Despite the uprising being suppressed in late October 1944, Slovakia ultimately changed sides and ended the war on the side of the Allies. Today, the museum houses a permanent exhibition devoted to crucial political and military events in Slovakia from 1918 to 1948. There is an open-air exhibition of military equipment, including a plane that airlifted supplies to the embattled partisans. A historical library that contains more than 20,000 volumes is also noteworthy. 5 Štátna opera (State Opera)  Národná 11, Banská Bystrica +421 (0)48 245-7101   www.stateopera.sk  depends on performances  depends on performances   WC The State Opera resides in a building dating back to the 1920s and is based on a plan by prominent Slovak architect Emil Belluš. It has been named a national monument. The State Opera began as a branch of the Zvolen Theatre, but since 1993 it has been independent. It employs its own orchestra, soloists, choir, and a ballet ensemble. The repertoire focuses not only on well-known works such as Verdi’s Macbeth and Puccini’s Madame Butterfly, but also produces the work of its own Slovak composers. Since 1979, the State Opera has participated in the festival Zámocké hry zvolenské (Zvolen Castle Plays), an annual drama and opera festival that offers performances in the the yard of Zvolen Castle. Nám.ŠtefanaMoyzesa Train station 16 min Národná Arcadepasáž Kuzmányho JánaCikkera NámestieSlovenského národnéhopovstania Nám.ŠtefanaMoyzesa Národná Kapitulská Krížna Skuteckého Horná Kapitulská FrantiškaŠvantnera Lazovná Štadlerovonábrežie Horná N central slovakia - banská bystrica 99 Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary House of Matej Church of the Holy Cross 1b 1c 1a 1 2 3 5 4 1a 1e 1d 1b 1c i

144 northern slovakia - liPtov 28 nízkeTaTry V (LowTatras) map E 3, F 3  19-110 km / 12-68 miles (20-75 min) SW of Poprad www.nizketatry.sk Area: 1,242 km2 ; Highest point: Ďumbier (2,043 m) The second highest mountain range in Slovakia offers an experience that is quite different from what can be found in the HighTatras. The slopes of the LowTatras are less precipitous and rocky than those of the HighTatras which actually makes them more suitable for skiing and hiking. The LowTatras are the largest mountain chain in Slovakia and make up its biggest national park. They form an 80-kilometre border between the regions of Horehronie (central Slovakia) and the Liptov region (northern Slovakia). Thus, the LowTatras are bounded by the two longest rivers in Slovakia – the Váh and the Hron. Ďumbier is its highest peak with a height of 2,043 metres / 6,703 ft, followed by Štiavnica (2,025 m / 6,644 ft) and Chopok (2,024 m / 6,637 ft). The highest peak in the western LowTatras is Kráľova hoľa which rises up to a height of 1,946 metres / 6,385 ft. The mountains are home to a rich variety of wildlife – especially bears, wolves, and lynx. The Low Tatras also boast some unusual and interesting geologic formations, including huge limestone formations called limestone or karst as well as several large underground caves. 29 choPok Jasná – Chopok sever (north) Map E 3 73 km / 45.3 miles (52 min) SW of Poprad +421 (0)907 886-644 www.jasna.sk Cableways Jasná Biela Púť – Chopok  Jun, Sep: Mon-Sun 8:30-16:00; Jul-Aug: Mon-Sun 8:30-17:00  Mon-Sun 8:30-15:00 from €13   WC Srdiečko – Chopok juh (south)  91 km / 56.3 miles (75 min) SW of Poprad +421 (0)907 886-644 www.jasna.sk Cableways Srdiečko – Kosodrevina  Jun, Sep: Mon-Sun 8:30-16:30; Jul-Aug: Mon-Sun 8:30-17:30  Mon-Sun 8:30-15:30 Cableways Kosodrevina– Chopok Jun, Sep: Mon-Sun 8:30-16:00; Jul-Aug: Mon-Sun 8:30-17:00  Mon-Sun 8:30-15:00 €13   WC The Low Tatras are extremely popular during the winter. The Jasná resort is the largest ski centre in Slovakia, offering 45 kilometres of slopes with 30 lifts. From the northern edge (Chopok sever), visitors can pass through the ridge into the Low Tatras and ski on the southern slopes (Chopok juh). Some skiers may choose the less confined slopes for free-riding on more daunting courses. Ski passes of two or more days also include access to the aquapark Tatralandia, which is 20 kilometres from Jasná. The cable cars operate all summer for hikers. The southern face of the Low Tatras in central Slovakia offers less expensive skiing. Centres in Mýto pod Ďumbierom (www. skicentrummyto.eu) or in Tále (www.tale.sk), which are located in the valley under the Chopok, are popular for families. Donovaly (www.parksnow.sk), situated on the western edge of the Low Tatras with the Greater Fatra (Veľká Fatra), is also one of the most visited ski centres in Slovakia. During summer, Srdiečko is an Jasnáskiresort(CourtesyofTatryMountainResorts) 36 32 31 25 30 29 27 35 41 i3 Čierny Váh (pg 288-289) 24 Liptovský Hrádok (pg 142) 25 Liptovský Ján (pg 142-143) 27 Liptovský Mikuláš (pg 143) 29 Chopok (pg 144-145) 30 Demänovská Cave of Liberty (pg 145) 31 Demänovská Ice Cave (pg 145-146) 32 Svätý Kríž (pg 146) 28 Šumiac (pg 111) 35 Tále (pg 113) 36 Dead Bats’ Cave (pg 113) 41 Donovaly (pg 114) Latiborská hoľa 1,643 Ďurková 1,750 Skalka 1,980 Dereše 2,003 Ďumbier 2,043 Ráztocká hoľa 1,565Zvolen 1,403 Chopok 2,024 Tále

northern slovakia - liPtov 145Photo:MichalRengevič ideal starting point for hikes from central Slovakia to Chopok – it takes around three hours to get to the top. Hikers can take a break in the Kamenná chata pod Chopkom chalet, or they can continue on numerous other trails. For non-hikers there are cable cars from Srdiečko to Kosodrevina, then up to Chopok. The best way to reach the highest point of the Low Tatras, Ďumbier, from the southern side, is to make the hour and half hike from Trangoška (2 kilometres before Srdiečko) to the M. R. Štefánik chalet, passing around the Dead Bats’ Cave. From the chalet it takes 90 minutes to Ďumbier. On the northern side, the cable cars from Jasná-Záhradky will take visitors almost to the top of Chopok. To go back down, use hiking trails or the cable cars. Jasná also offers hiking adventures for children. The Giant Bike Park Jasná is suitable for anyone keen on mountain biking. Bikes can be rented then the chair-lift will take them to the top of the hill. Other activities including paragliding and horseback riding are also available. 30 deMänoVská jaskyňa slobody (Demänovská Cave of Liberty) W map E 3  65 km / 40 miles (46 min) SW of Poprad  0.5 km / 0.3 mile W of the cave Demänovská Dolina, Jaskyňa Slobody  The cave’s entrance is about 400 metres from the car park +421 (0)44 559-1673 www.ssj.skJan-May, Sep 15-Nov 25: Tue-Sun 9:30-14:00 (entrance every 90 min); Jun: Tue-Sun 9:00-16:00 (entrance every hour); Jul-Aug: Mon-Sun 9:00-16:00 (entrance every hour)  €8   WC The Demänovská Cave of Liberty is the most visited cave in Slovakia thanks partly to its location in the Demänovská Valley a popular tourist destination. The interior of the cave was created by the underground flow of the Demänovka River, whose headwaters spring below the main ridge of the LowTatras. The cave is 8,497 metres long, and visitors can choose between a 1,150-metre and a 2,150-metre tour to see sinter water-lilies and other forms, as well as eccentric stalactites (stalactites hang upside down, as opposed to stalagmites, which grow from the ground up; eccentric means that they defy gravity by growing horizontally, for example). The cave is known for its rich colours, ranging from white, through various shades of brown to black. In the cave you can also see a 60-metre waterfall as well as a cave organ consisting of stalagmites that emit a musical tone when struck. All the formations are continuing to grow, or in cave parlance are alive, meaning they glisten.To get to the cave take the road from Liptovský Mikuláš to Jasná, walking about 15 minutes up from the parking lot. 31 deMänoVská ľadoVá jaskyňa (Demänovská Ice Cave) map E 3  63 km / 39 miles (43 min) SW of Poprad  0.6 km / 0.4 mile W of the cave Demänovská Dolina, Ľadová jaskyňa  The cave’s entrance is about 600 metres from the car park +421 (0)44 554-8170 www.ssj.skMay 15- May 31, Sep: Tue-Sun 9:30-14:00 (entrance every 90 min); Jun: Tue-Sun 9:00-16:00 (entrance every hour); Jul-Aug: Mon-Sun 9:00-16:00 (entrance every hour)  7   WC ©KartografieHP 24 i3 28 Veľká Vápenica 1,691 Babiná 1,516 Oravcová 1,544 Liptovský Hrádok Šumiac Kráľová hoľa 1,946 Predná hoľa 1,546Orlová 1,840

170 eastern slovakia - košice 5 Dóm sv. Alžbety (St elizabeth’s Cathedral) W city map page 169  Hlavné námestie 3, Košice Å+421 (0)55 622-1555 (the crypt+the stairs) Mon 13:00-17:45 Tue-Sat 9:00-17:45 Sun 13:00-17:45; (the tower) Mon 13:00-19:00 Tue-Thu 9:00-19:00 Fri-Sat 9:00-20:00 Sun 13:00-19:00 U Mon-Sat 6:00, 7:00, 18:00 Sun 6:00, 7:30, 9:00, 10:30, 12:00, 15:00, 18:00 €1 (the crypt); €1.5 (the tower); €1 (the stairs) €5 (all parts + St Michael’s Chapel) é(partly) Dominating the south end of Košice’s main square, St Elizabeth’s Cathedral honours the city’s adopted patron, St Elizabeth of Hungary, patron saint of bakers, homeless, nursing services, tertiaries, widows and young brides. The new cathedral, begun in 1378, was built on the site of the romanesque parish church dedicated to St Michael. Rather than alienate St Michael, a new gothic chapel was built in his honour in the shadow of the cathedral. St Elizabeth’s is a large gothic cathedral, 60 metres long and 36 metres wide, the largest in Slovakia and the leading example of this architectural style in eastern Europe. Featuring the highest dome of any Slovak church, the construction of a Košice skyscraper in recent years was abandoned because it would have been taller than St Elizabeth’s. With room for more than 5,000 worshippers, it took 130 years to build. During this time, construction was halted by various attacks on the city, only to be restarted as hostilities abated. The construction of the ambitious and expensive St Elizabeth’s Cathedral clearly announced to all in the region the bold confidence and prosperity of mediaeval Košice, touting its leadership position among eastern European cities and its favoured status among Hungarian royalty. The investment clearly paid off as Košice assumed centrality in the region. Rather than light and airy like later examples of gothic architecture, the building is imposing and overwhelming. There are two towers, one truncated and the other reaching nearly 60 metres. The public is allowed (and encouraged) to climb the 161 steps and view the entire region from the top. The exterior is all 14th century gothic, complete with dozens of decorative spires and even gargoyles on the roof directing rainwater Main altar with sculpture of the Virgin Mary in the middle the public is allowed to climb the 161 stairs of the northern tower the most impressive northern entrance to the cathedral the northern entrance to the cathedral

eastern slovakia - košice 171 away from the building. Legend has it that one of the gargoyles is a rather unflattering caricature of the builder’s wife. Another legend – there is a keystone hidden someplace which, if removed, would cause the building to collapse, allegedly as an insurance policy guaranteeing the builder would be paid. The northern entrance to the cathedral is most impressive with its engravings of the Last Trial, scenes from the life of St Elizabeth, the Virgin Mary, the Apostle John, and the Calvary. In the middle is a sculpture of St Elizabeth. The interior is even more impressive thanks to the main altar dedicated to St Elizabeth, which places it among the world’s highest quality gothic art. According to art historian Peter Kresánek, it was created by Nikolaus Gerhaert von Leyden and his followers, perhaps by the master himself. It consists of 48 paintings. However visitors cannot see all of them at once as they rotate seasonally. This gothic altar with a double rotating mechanism is one of two in the world (the second is in the French city of Colmar). In the centre of the cathedral is a hanging sculpture of the Immaculata. Other chapels include a late-gothic altar with depictions of the Visitation of the Virgin Mary, a wooden sculpture of the Virgin Mary, fragments of the wall painting the Last Judgement the side altar of St Anthony of Padua, a wall painting The Resurrection, the bronze font, the altar painting of St Anna Metercia, and a gothic Calvary. There is also an impressive carved neo-gothic stone pulpit. Two other highlights of the interior are not to be missed. One is a rare (there are only five) side-by-side carved marble spiral stairway leading up to the royal gallery (where visiting nobles could attend mass without mixing with the common folk) offering a hawk eye’s view of the cathedral’s central nave. One arm of the stairs continues up to the space where it is believed the relic of Christ’s blood used to be preserved. The stairway, often called a lovers stair because it offers several meeting points along the way, is open to the public. Ask for a key at the shop next to the church entrance. The second highlight is the crypt where the remains of Francis II Rákóczi were moved in 1906. Rákóczi, a leader of the last anti-Habsburg uprising, was a much revered hero to the citizens of Košice. 4 Kostol Sv. Michala (St Michael’s Church) city map page 169  Hlavné námestie 4, Košice Å+421 (0)55 622-1555  Mon 13:00-18:00 Tue-Sat 9:00-18:00 Sun 13:00-18:00 U Tue 15:00 Thu 15:00 Sun 9:30, 11:00 (in English) €1.5 é When construction on the massive St Elizabeth’s Cathedral was started in 1378, another building project, a small chapel dedicated to St Michael, was already complete. This architectural gem is a much better example of gothic architecture than its neighbour, no doubt because it was built so much more quickly, between 1350 and 1370. Serving originally as a cemetery chapel, its lower part was an ossuary, housing bones uncovered in the old cemetery, and its upper part a site for requiems. On its altar is a sculpture of St Michael the Archangel battling Satan depicted as a dragon. In 2006, the award- winning reconstruction received reclassification as a full-on church. This was acknowledging that St Michael’s served as a church for minorities from the 17th century to the early 20th century while the cathedral was reserved for the Hungarian-speaking population, which at that time was the majority in the city. Central part of the cathedral with carved neo-gothic stone pulpit entrance to the northern tower the church is accessable from the west

200 castles The rise and fall of Slovak castles These days Slovakia is recognised as the world leader in car production per capita. What is lesser known is that this country also has the highest number of registered castles per person. Theoretically, the country could be comprised of 180 small kingdoms of 30,000 people each with its own castle or chateau. Unfortunately, because of a lack of maintenance, there are just 120 castles with visible remains and even most of those are largely in ruins. For visitors, there are luckily still dozens of castles to tour replete with their majesty and cold beauty. As a mountainous country, Slovakia is naturally predisposed to castles that use the high ground and rocks as construction material. Starting in the Middle Ages and up to the 18th century, the aristocracy of the Kingdom of Hungary preferred to build their castles in Slovakia’s easy to defend territory, art historian Peter Kresánek says. Most of those constructions turned to ruins as their military importance decreased and landowners sought out more comfortable residences. For a long time, few had a passion for castles and what was not destroyed over the years became construction material for nearby homes. After the fall of the communist regime in 1989, more and more people have shown interest in these magnificent constructions, and volunteer groups have formed to preserve and renovate castles. InThebegInnIng The story of Slovakia’s castles begins in the 9th century when Slavs began building wooden fortresses in present-day Slovakia, with about a dozen stone castles replacing them in the 11th century – including in Bratislava, Nitra, andTrenčín. The best example of one of these constructions is one of the best-known Slovak castles – the Bratislava Castle. Its first mention dates to the 10th century, but the castle hill was inhabited also in the Celtic and the Great-Moravian era. Despite turbulent times, fires and lack of money for its maintenance Bratislava Castle has been preserved until today. It has been renovated and now stands proudly on a hill above the banks of the Danube. Indeed, Slovaks voted to make it one of the three symbols representing the country on their new euro coins, introduced in January 2009. Tartar raids in the 13th century brought about a period of consolidation in the Kingdom of Hungary’s defence strategy, and by the end of the century, around There are 138 small chateaus, 435 manor houses, and alto- gether 180 castles and chateaus in Slovakia. Terminology Castle(hrad)–Fortifiedstructure servingfordefencepurposes Chateau(zámok)–Representa- tivefortifiedstructuremoresuitable fornobles manorhouse(kaštieľ)–Resi- denceofnobilityusuallyplacedon aplainratherthanontopofthehill Curia(kúria)– Smallchateau wherelownobilityusedtolive CasTles, CiTy CasTles & forTresses 1 Bratislava Castle  page 40 14 Pezinok Castle  pages 51-52 18 Červený Kameň Castle  page 54 Bratislava Castle orava Castle is one of the most impressive castles in slovakia

castles 201 12 smolenice Castle  page 67 23 Trenčín Castle  page 72 29 Bojnice Castle  page 76 36 nitra City Castle  page 84 46 Komárno fortress  page 90 c2 ilava Castle Mierové námestie 1, Ilava exterior views only (the building serves as a prison) 1 Banská Bystrica Town Castle  page 98 2 Hronský Beňadik monastery page 100 5 Banská Štiavnica old Castle  page 102 5 Banská Štiavnica new Castle  page 103 11 Zvolen Castle  page 106 15 Vígľaš Castle  page 107 39 slovenská Ľupča Castle  page 114 45 Kremnica Town Castle  page 116 1 Červený Kláštor monastery  page 123 2 stará Ľubovňa Castle  page 124 8 Kežmarok Castle  page 128 49 oravský Podzámok orava Castle  page 152 69 Bytča Castle  page 158 70 Žilina Budatín Castle  page 160 8 Krásna Hôrka Castle  page 178 150 castles had been built or fortified to protect the area from further raids. Later, many castles became administrative centres or living quarters for Hungarian nobles. This period gave birth to the Orava Castle which is one of the most visited castles in Slovakia. It became part of cinematic history in 1922 when German director F. W. Murnau shot the silent vampire movie Nosferatu inside its walls. goIngbIg More new castles were built and fortified during the 15th -century Hussite wars, this time taking into account firearms. In this era,Trenčín, Devín, and Spiš Castles became three of the biggest in Europe. Of all Slovakia’s castles, the grand and gloomy Spiš Castle is probably the most celebrated. It is reputed to be the largest castle ruin in central Europe, and in its stony decay it seems to erupt out of the hill on which it is perched, as if the earth itself were trying to resurrect a lost gothic past. Perhaps that is why the castle was used in American movie Dragonheart as a castle by the sea, while in reality it is more than 600 kilometres from the nearest shoreline. One of the best preserved castles built in this era is the Kežmarok Castle, constructed in the mid 15th century.Today it is used as a museum that tells the history of both Kežmarok and the castle itself. oTToMAnInVADeRS Another round of castle building took place after the Ottomans conquered lower Hungary in the 16th century. By order of the ruler, castle walls like those at Vígľaš, Fiľakovo and Krásna Hôrka were significantly extended. Also the Komárno Fortress was rebuilt according to Italian war engineer designs, becoming the strongest fortified construction of the Kingdom of Hungary. In 1594 the fortress resisted a month-long siege by an Ottoman army of 100,000 soldiers and later became a symbol of European military architecture. But it is not only castles that were used in the fight against the Ottomans, even some monasteries were fortified and absorbed into the defence system. Hronský Beňadik is an example. The abbey was first established in 1075, and the local monks were instrumental for centuries in spreading Christianity before the whole complex was fortified to face the Ottoman raids. The monastery was declared a national cultural monument in 1945. spiš Castle is impressive from the air as well as from the ground slovak castles often offer re-enactment of history The coat of arm of Pálffy family

202 castles ruins wiTH exHiBiT 3 Devín Castle  page 44 20 Čachtice Castle  page 70 22 Beckov Castle  page 71 41 levice Castle  page 83 8 Bzovík Kláštorná pevnosť Bzovík (Bzovík fortress) www.muzeum.sk +421 (0)907 852-925  Jun-Sep: non-stop  booking necessary free 19 modrý Kameň Castle  page 109 23 fiľakovo Castle  page 110 14 spiš Castle  page 134 24 liptovský Hrádok Castle  page 142 39 likava Castle  page 149 67 strečno Castle  page 157 manor Houses wiTH exHiBiT 13 Dolná Krupá  page 67 34 oponice  page 80 38 Topoľčianky  page 81 c1 sobotište manor House www.muzeum.sk +421 (0)34 628-2102 Tue, Fri 12:30-18:00 Wed-Thu 10:00- 12:00, 12:00-16:00 €1 c3 Brodzany manor House www.snk.sk €1 +421 (0)907 812-770 Mon- Fri 9:00-15:30 Sat 10:00-14:00 c4 Jelenec manor House www.forgach.org  Hlavná street - Forgáčov dvor +421 (0)37 631-3311Wed, Sat-Sun 13:00-16:00 €1 c5 Beladice manor House www.tartuf.sk  Pustý Chotár 495 +421 (0)37 633-0235 exterior views only free During the Ottoman wars in the 16th and 17th centuries, Slovak castles played a considerable role in the defence of the whole region which had become a geopolitically important crossroad. Many travel books and publications written in those times describe Slovak castles, according to Kresánek. However, the stories were not only about heroic battles. For instance, one famous legend recounts the exploits of Elizabeth Báthory. Otherwise known as the Blood Countess, this Hungarian aristocrat became notorious in the early 17th century as a serial killer who tortured and killed scores of young women – possibly up to 650 victims in her residence – Čachtice Castle. Many myths and legends have surfaced surrounding Báthory’s crimes, most notably the claims that she bathed in her victims’ blood in a bid to retain her youth. Whatever the truth, she has been the grisly inspiration for writers, playwrights, filmmakers, and artists from across the world. The list includes a song by the American thrash metal band Slayer or a 2008 English-language fantasy film of an international co-production between Slovakia, the Czech Republic, Hungary, and the United Kingdom. It comes as no surprise that much of the small town museum in Čachtice focuses on Báthory. TwIlIghTof ThecASTleS Most of Slovakia’s castles were destroyed after a series of anti-Habsburg uprisings in the 17th century which ended in 1711. Because the castles were considered to be centres of rebellion, rulers decided to render them useless. The emperor’s army systematically deprived them of their defence capabilities by destroying important parts of their walls, embrasures and other tactical structures. After that the castles were used as watchtowers and continued to decay. Some saw their prospects partially revived with new lives as more pleasant and luxurious chateaus, family residences or museums during the romantic period toward the end of the 18th century. For example, after the Thurzo family took over the Bojnice Castle in the 16th century, they promptly remade the heavily fortified defence structure into a Renaissance-style chateau. Later, János Pálffy, a wealthy heir and castle- The Bojnice Castle is inspired by french chateaus in the loire Valley Polish crown jewels were hidden at stará Ľubovňa Castle elizabeth Báthory

castles 203 manor Houses wiTH exHiBiT 6 svätý anton  page 105 20 Dolná strehová Kaštieľ imre madácha (imre madách manor House) www.snm.sk  Madácha 1 +421 (0)47 489-7189 Tue-Sun 10:00-17:00 €2 7 strážky  page 126 16 markušovce  page 136 25 liptovský Ján  page 142 c1 radoľa manor House www.kysuckemuzeum.sk €2 +421 (0)41 421-2505 Mon- Fri 8:00-15:30 Sun 10:00-15:30 c2 oščadnica manor House www.kysuckagaleria.sk €1  Oščadnica 13 +421 (0)41 433-2166 Tue-Fri 10:00-17:00 Sun 12:30-16:00 7 Betliar  page 177 19 Trebišov  page 183 20 michalovce  page 184 32 Humenné  page 188 c1 Hanušovce nad Topľou manor House www.muzeumhanusovce.sk  Zámocká 160/5 +421 (0)57 445-2371  Jul-Aug: Mon-Fri 7:30-18:00 Sat-Sun 14:00-18:00  Mon-Fri 7:30-15:00 from €2 c2 Budimír; manor House www.stm-ke.sk +421 (0)55 622-4035 Tue- Sat 9:00-17:00 from €1.5 CasTles anD monumenTs wHere foreigners are welComeD To HelP wiTH reConsTruCTions 50 sedliacka Dubová  page 272 71 lietava Castle  page 161 80 sklabiňa Castle  page 165 5 Banská Štiavnica  page 102 46 Šariš Castle  page 273 makeover enthusiast, gave the castle a late-Tyrolian gothic look. Mimicking the romantic chateaus of France’s Loire Valley, the Bojnice Castle has become a wonderful destination for travellers with children. Rumours that the castle is haunted have led to the whimsical International Festival of Spirits and Ghosts, held annually in late April and early May. The Pálffy family has also reconstructed the Červený Kameň Castle in an early baroque style. It now serves as a museum chronicling the development of the housing culture of the nobility and bourgeoisie in Slovakia. However, most of Slovak castles have not had such a happy ending. Many of them burned down.Two castles outside Bratislava – Devín and Pajštún – were burned intentionally by Napoleon, after he had signed a peace treaty in 1805. Two more were lost in World War II. Another two were shaken to the ground by earthquakes. The latest hit by fire was Krásna Hôrka, one of the most cherished and best- preserved castles in Slovakia. Most of the castle was destroyed in March 2012, and it needs serious reconstruction. Other castles simply fell apart because of neglect. In the past, castles had no historical value to locals who let the structures to crumble.Tragically, many destroyed the castles by using their walls as construction material for their own homes. Art historian Kresánek mentioned Bzovík Fortress as one which was partially looted by locals for its materials. “Foundation materials of the whole village of Bzovík have their origin in romanesque-gothic parts of the monastery,” Kresánek said. SAVIngnATIonAl TReASuReS In the beginning of the 20th century castles drew the focus of various tourism clubs and later the state. Many now serve as museums (Červený Kameň Castle, Modrý Kameň Castle, Kežmarok Castle), some have galleries (Bratislava Castle, Zvolen Castle), and the Ilava Castle was turned into a prison. Plenty of the castles remain a dominant feature of the towns and cities they are in, like Bratislava,Trenčín, Nitra, Zvolen, Kežmarok or Banská Bystrica. Moreover, dozens of chateaus were restored and are commercially used as restaurants or hotels. As time passes even ordinary people try to conserve or reconstruct damaged castles. For example, there were 24 castles maintained by civic associations and 36 by municipalities in 2014. Reconstruction work on castles became a sort of leisure time activity which could be enjoyed even by foreigners staying in Slovakia. (For more information go to pg 272.) While the particular motivation for people who try to save castles varies, most agree that they cannot watch as a historical treasure vanishes. “I do care about people who do not know their history, which is richer than it appears,” Rastislav Rybanský from the civic association renewing theTopoľčany Castle said. “I do care for sure about history decaying in front of my eyes.” By Roman Cuprik 29 12 13 c1 8 c334 38 36 46 41 c5 c4 20 13 14 18 69 71 70 67 80 39 49 50 25 24 1 2 7 16 148 c2 c1 2 5 6 19 20 23 11 45 1 39 15 7 8 19 20 3246 c2 c1 Cathedral dominates the nitra Castle Bzovík is a former monastery rebuilt into a fortress restoration of castles is a leisure activity for many (Photo: martin sárossy) 22 23 c2

238 aGritourism agriTourism 33 Bojná; ranč pod Babicou  Bojná 812 +421 (0)38 537-3298 www.babica-bojna.sk (mini-zoo, fishing) 58 galanta ranč na striebornom jazere  Galanta +421 (0)917 049- 449 www.rancgalanta.sk (fishing, horse riding) a1 Podkylava; agropenzión adam  Podkylava 188 +421 (0)32 777-2101 www.penzion-adam.sk a2 Bolešov; Chata gilianka  Bolešov +421 (0)905 629- 668 www.chatagilianka.sk (horse riding, hunting, fishing, be- ekeeping, collecting mushrooms and herbs) 6 svätý anton; ranč nádej  Na Záhumní 499, Svätý Anton +421 (0)911 806-499 www.rancnadej.sk (horse riding, fishing, collecting berries, sheep products tasting) 33 Brezno; eurosalaš michalová  Brezno +421 (0)903 610-126 www.eurosalas.sk (sheep cheese making, taking care of the farm, cooking of halušky) a1 Turany; ranč aljaška  Družstevná 10, Turany +421 (0)43 429-2008 www.rancaljaska.sk (dog sled and horse riding) a2 nižné Kamence Camping Belá  Nižné Kamence +421 (0)41 569-5135 www.campingbela.eu (mini zoo, fishing) 16 nováčany Biofarma – Zlatý Hýľ  Nováčany 145 +421 (0)903 706-655 www.zlatyhyl.sk (taking care of the farm) a1 Hodkovce; agrofarma - ranč f&a&H  Hodkovce +421 (0)53 449-5129 www.ranch-fah.sk; (hunting, collecting berries, herbs and mushrooms) ranCHes  page 242-244 TraDiTional fooD 1 Bratislava; schoppa www.schoppa.sk 8 lozorno; Biofarma príroda; www.biofarma.sk 7 senica; salaš sobotišťan www.salas-sobotistan.sk 36 nitra; salaš Cabaj www.salas-cabaj.sk a3 nimnica; salaš nimnica www.salasnimnica.sk 1 Banská Bystrica; Koliba u sv. Krištofa; www.usvkristofa.sk A taste of life on the farm Every year, lovers of bryndzové halušky travel to the village ofTurecká in Banská Bystrica Region to demonstrate their skills at the World Championships in cooking Slovakia’s national dish. The event draws international halušky devotees suggesting that the fame of the salty sheep cheese dish has crossed Slovakia’s borders. The championship “is clearly the first event of this kind open to the public in Slovakia,” said Ivan Janovec, the mayor ofTurecká. In the past bryndzové halušky “was the meal of hardworking Slovaks”, but it is increasingly thought of as a cultural delicacy. The popularity of the main ingredient of the dish, the bryndza or ‘white gold’, comes from the deep-rooted tradition of sheep herding reaching back to the 15th century when the Wallachians began to settle in what is today’s Slovakia. Detva, located in the Podpoľanie region, was the home of the first bryndza factory. The company was established by the Vagač family and functioned until the end of World War II.Ten years later, another factory opened in Zvolenská Slatina which is still operational today. “Interest in our products has not faded away, as [bryndza] is the most typical product of the sheep industry with a long-time tradition,” Sven Harman of the Bryndziareň a Syráreň company in Zvolenská Slatina told The Slovak Spectator. Bryndza has its fans also outside Slovakia, said Harman, noting demand from Slovakia’s neighbours and theTurkish communities in Austria and Germany. The picturesque wooden houses, salaše, or koliby, the sheep farms, where herders (bačovia) used to live are today often transformed into restaurants, usually built along the important roads instead of the green pasture lands. The historical process of bryndza-making has changed, but the farms remain.Today, however, such businesses face tough times. “Traditional sheep farms will not last,” Eva Grénerová from Eurosalaš Michalová in Brezno told The Slovak Spectator. “Young people do not want to work here and the old cannot keep up.” People tired of speedy and consumer lifestyle can try to work at farms Competing in halušky eating (Photo: noro Halabuk)

aGritourism 239 fARMeRpARADISe While lifestyles have changed dramatically, Slovaks’ love of nature has not. After the nationalisation of farms in post-war Czechoslovakia, the only way for large-scale raising of livestock was in an agricultural cooperative. The state owned all meat-production while certain meat types became exclusive goods for which people queued up. Friends of the butcher were the only ones who could guarantee that a Sunday lunch included a cut like tenderloin, for example. Although such stories are a thing of the past, some Slovaks still prefer to keep their own animals to maintain a fresh daily supply of foods. Older generations often put more trust into home-kept animals rather than imported goods. “Our family keeps poultry and rabbits and buys meat only from smaller butchers,” Jaroslav Štrba from Pezinok told The Slovak Spectator. “We enjoy living with the animals and eating healthy food,” his wife Františka added. In recent years, the tourism potential of the countryside and farming has been rediscovered. Some farms offer a wide range of activities to visitors, including workshops, and it is possible to try out the real work on salaš. Routine farming activities such as milking and herding sheep, splitting wood or the hand reaping of grass, are offered to people interested in experiencing the kind of effort that goes into making their favourite produce. Biofarma Stupava is one of those spots where visitors can experience life on the farm while learning how to crack a whip, call the sheep or cook home-made quince sweets. “The traditional cuisine, farms and salaše are one of the opportunities for our economy and tourism,” Martina Hlinová from Biofarma Stupava told The Slovak Spectator. Another is the Zlatý Hýľ biofarm at the end of the village Nováčany about 15 kilometres from Košice. Its owners, a married couple, have been pursuing their interest in farming for the past 10 years. René Pavlík describes himself as a guy from the block, but he and his wife have dedicated themselves to converting an old farm into a complex agritourism centre. The goal is to offer tourists the chance to escape modern consumerist society. “People can get their hands on anything that’s usually done at a farm,” Pavlík said. “They can try what it feels like to be a shepherd, run after a flock of sheep or look after grazing cows.” By Lenka Sabová TraDiTional fooD 31 michalová; eurosalaš Brest www.eurosalas.sk 41 Donovaly; Koliba goral www.maguradonovaly.sk a1 ladomerská Vieska motorest ladomer www.motorestladomer.sk a2 Kováčová; salaš Hron www.salashronkovacova.sk a3 Pohronská Polhora salaš Zbojská - Zbojnícky dvor www.zbojska.sk 2 stará Ľubovňa; salaš u franka www.salasufranka.sk 13 spišské Podhradie spišský salaš www.spisskysalas.sk 32 svätý Kríž; salaš Dechtáre; www.salasdechtare.sk 38 Kozí vŕšok www.kozivrsok.sk 40 ružomberok Koliba u dobrého pastiera www.kolibaupastiera.sk 43 salaš Krajinka www.salaskrajinka.sk 45 Dolný Kubín; Penzión Koliba www.penzionkoliba.sk 47 Zázrivá; salaš syrex www.syrex.sk a3 nižná nad oravou oravský zrub www.oravskyzrub.sk a4 Veľký slavkov; salaš slavkov www.salas.sk a5 stará lesná; Zbojnícka koliba www.zbojnickakoliba.com 1 Košice; salaš Barca www.salasbarca.sk 1 Košice; u šuhaja www.usuhaja.sk 20 michalovce euro Penzión salaš www.salas.sirava.info 38 Bardejov; salaš lesná www.salaslesna.sk many slovaks prefer keeping their own animals Photos: manik 1 6 a1 a1 16 8 58 7 33 36 a2 a3 a1 1 a2 41 33 31 a3 a1 1 20 38 a2 43 40 38 45 47 a3 a4 a5 2 13 32

Live your own story of Slovakia Top Slovak sights 32 travel feature stories Pull-out map of Slovakia Suggested seven day itinerary Information and contact details for more than 450 tourist spots Drawings of 28 historical monuments 3D aerial drawings of 7 major city centres 17 maps of city centres and major mountains More than 1,000 photos Calendar of events Selection of top hotels and restaurants ISBN 978-80-971719-0-2 The Slovak Spectator Slovak news you can trust since 1995 sPecTAcULAR sLOVAKiA