Spectacular Slovakia - Bratislava

Includes pull-out map slovakiatravel guide SPECTACULAR SLOVAKIA content advisor

Bojnice Castle The annual coronation ceremony Hronsek Štiavnické vrchy Banská Bystrica How to use this guide 2 Seven day itinerary 4 Slovakia’sTOP 10 5 History 6 Changing Slovakia 12 Personalities 16 UNESCO 20 Sight by sight Bratislava 26 Bratislava Region 45 Western Slovakia 60 Central Slovakia 96 Northern Slovakia 118 Eastern Slovakia 166 Feature section Castles 200 Slovak art 204 Folklore 209 Gothic architecture 212 Religion 214 Wooden churches 216 Jewish heritage 220 Spas 223 Wine 228 Beer & Spirits 232 Food 234 Agritourism 238 Animal watching 240 Horses 242 Cycling 245 Rafting 249 Hiking 252 Caves 256 Skiing 259 Aqua 262 Best deals 265 Extreme - heights 268 Speed, army 270 Out of the city 272 Luxury 274 Golf 276 Genealogy 280 War 282 Mines, technical monuments 285 Industrial tours 288 Economy 290 Basics for tourists Language (inside front cover) Souvenirs 294 Events 294 Travellers’ needs 300 Restaurants 302 Index (inside back cover) Pull-out map (inside back cover) CONTENTS

Live your own story of Slovakia Top Slovak sights 32 travel feature stories Pull-out map of Slovakia Suggested seven day itinerary Information and contact details for more than 450 tourist spots Drawings of 28 historical monuments 3D aerial drawings of 7 major city centres 17 maps of city centres and major mountains More than 1,000 photos Calendar of events Selection of top hotels and restaurants ISBN 978-80-971719-0-2 The Slovak Spectator Slovak news you can trust since 1995 sPecTAcULAR sLOVAKiA

26 bratislava 1 Slovenská národná galéria (SlovakNationalGallery) city map page 27  Nám. Ľ. Štúra 4 0.45 km / 0.28 mile (5 min) Å+421 (0)2 2047-6111  www.sng.sk a Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00 Thu 12:00- 20:00 €3.50 (free entry in 2014) e é WC The Slovak National Gallery (SNG) is the most important art museum in Slovakia, managing around 60,000 exhibits. Its main Bratislava site comprises a complex of three buildings: the historical baroque Vodné kasárne (Water Barracks), the neo-Renaissance-style Eszterházy Palace, and the newer extension by the Slovak architect Vladimír Dedeček. Opinions over the extension are divided, with some architecture experts praising it as an example of excellent modern and functionalistic architecture, while others condemn it for damaging the harmony of the historical setting. The Water Barracks and the extension known as bridging, facing the Danube River embankment, are currently closed being under extensive reconstruction. The SNG promises that after reconstruction the premises will be a modern art institution to compare with anywhere abroad. But in the meantime, the gallery’s options for exhibiting masterworks from its collections as well as temporary exhibitions are limited to the Eszterházy Palace and the gallery’s courtyard. 2 Reduta city map page 27  Nám. E. Suchoňa 1  0.45 km / 0.28 mile (5 min) Å+421 (0)2 2047-5233 ¯ www.filharmonia.ska for performances from €5 å é WC Bratislava’s Reduta was designed by the Budapest architects Dezső Jakab and Marcell Komor and built on the site of a former 18th century granary. Construction started in 1911 but was complicated by the outbreak of World War I. The building was fully completed some years later, and the organ was installed in 1956. The Reduta was a place for entertainment, shows, art performances and meetings, and for many years there was a cinema Reduta, a restaurant, a bookshop and a casino. The building belonged to the city and after World War II was assigned to the Slovak Philharmonic Orchestra. Concerts, balls and other social events continue to be held in the Reduta to the 1 Bratislava W map A 5  62 km / 39 miles E of Vienna International Airport (46 min)  411,228  Klobučnícka 2, Bratislava Å+421 (0)2 5441-9410 www.visit.bratislava.sk  2.6 km / 1.6 miles E of centre  1.6 km / 1 mile NW of centre  10 km / 6 miles NE of centre  January: Slovakiatour; March: Bratislava Marathon; April: Bratislava pre všetkých (Bratislava – City for Everyone); National Run Devín – Bratislava; GLOBSEC (Bratislava Global Security Forum); May: Days of Open Wine Cellars; June: Bratislava Coronation; August/September: Craftsmen Days ÚĽUV; September/October: Bratislavské hudobné slávnosti (Bratislava Music Festival); October: Bratislava Jazz Days; November: Days of Open Wine Cellars; November-December: Christmas market; December: Partyslava – New Year’s Eve Party Bratislava, sitting on both banks of the Danube and close to the Morava River, is the first experience of Slovakia for most visitors to the country. The city, nicknamed Beauty on the Danube, is the only European capital that borders two other countries, Hungary and Austria.Vienna is less than 60 kilometres away, making the cities the two closest capitals in the world. A tram line launched in 1914 between the two capitals gives an idea of just how close they were at different points of history, both geographically but also culturally.Today, there are regular train and bus connections between the cities. Going fromVienna’s Schwechat airport to Bratislava takes just as long as from the airport toVienna’s city centre. Bratislava, by that name at least, was born in 1919. Before that, was known as Pozsony by Hungarians, Pressburg by Germans, and Prešporok by Slovaks. Bratislava, a home to different nations, including Hungarians, Austrians and Czechs, had always been a major city in the former Kingdom of Hungary and the Austro-Hungarian Empire, substituting for the coronations of several rulers when Hungary was overrun by the Ottomans. Bratislava underwent a major development boom in the 20th century and today the 400,000-strong city, including commuters and temporary residents, is a thriving business hub with players such as Volkswagen Slovakia, IBM, Dell, Accenture, Swiss Re and many others.The easily manageable city boasts a scenic old town, huddled beneath the castle on the banks of the Danube, dominated by baroque palaces and condensed, narrow, mediaeval streets. Just as any city in the former Soviet bloc, parts of the city are dominated by communist-era housing developments with the suburb of Petržalka being one of the dominant examples. The Danube River is not only a picturesque feature of the city, but it also offers a getaway from a city centre. For example one can travel by boat to Devín’s historical castle ruin,Vienna as well as to Čunovo, with an artificial island which houses the Danubiana Meulensteen Art Museum. Bratislava is also home to a number of universities, including Comenius University, one of the country’s most prominent education institutions and a major contributor to the young spirit of the city. Rubberneck on Panská Street

bratislava 27 present day. The building recently underwent extensive reconstruction which included the acquisition of a new organ by Orgelbau Rieger from Austria, whose instruments can also be found in the Vienna Stephansdome and in the concert hall of the Paris Conservatory. A courtyard formerly used for parking was roofed and now provides another concert space. Note that the bronze decoration on the stuccos was replaced by gold, as per the original plans. A lack of money during the inter-war years necessitated using cheaper metal. 3 Hviezdoslavovo námestie (square) city map page 27  Hviezdoslavovo nám. 0.23 km / 0.14 mile (3 min)¯  ® ä å e Slovenské Národné Divadlo - Historická budova (SlovakNationalTheatre–Historical building)W Hviezdoslavovo nám. 1 Å+421 (0)2 2047-2111¯ ® www.snd.sk a Sep-Jun for performances from €4 éåWC The area now known as Hviezdoslavovo námestie (Hviezdoslavovo Square) is today one of the greenest parts in the city centre. Some 200 years ago, a branch of the Danube flowed through this part of Bratislava, but in 1781 the river bed was filled based on a decree issued by Maria Theresa. The empress also ordered a city wall to be demolished, which she said was preventing the city’s growth. The river branch is now represented by a long, rectangular fountain. The square has had numerous names throughout the years: the Promenade, Theaterplatz, and in 1889 it was named after Lajos Kossuth, a Hungarian revolutionary. Since 1932, it has carried the name of the Slovak poet Pavol Országh Hviezdoslav. The most prominent buildings in the square include the neo- Renaissance Slovak National Theatre and the US embassy, which is now heavily barricaded behind a fence. In winter the square hosts the Christmas market and often an ice-rink. The neo-Renaissance building of the Slovak National Theatre was designed by the Viennese duo of Ferdinand Fellner and Hermann Helmer, architects with more than 200 notable European buildings to their names. The current construction dates from 1886 and replaced the city theatre which stood on the site since 1776. The building has undergone several reconstructions since then, usually to make it more functional and to meet contemporary demands, although a recent project also allowed for busts of significant cultural figures – Liszt, Shakespeare, Goethe, Katona, Mozart – to be returned to the niches on the façade. Nowadays, the building is known as the historical building of the Slovak National Theatre and hosts performances of drama, opera and ballet as well as balls and other prominent events. 4 Čumil (Rubberneck) city map page 27  Rybárska brána/Panská  0.1 km / 0.06 mile (1 min) Obchodná Bus station 17 min Primaciálne nám. Zámocká Zelená Hurbanovo nám. Klariská Michalská Prepoštolská Františ.nám. Farská Riečna Gorkého Zámočnícka Jesenského Paulínyho Vajanského nábrežie Kúpeľná Uršulínska Štúrova Škarniclova Klobučnícka Zochova Palisády Sedlárska Veterná Bradlianska Svoradova Kamennénám. Panská Strakova Nám. SNP Rybnénám. Panská Ventúrska Kozia HviezdoslavovonámestieRudnayovo nám. Fajnorovo nábr. Rigeleho Heydukova Františkánska Navŕšku Kapitulská Biela MostSNP Kolárska Dunajská Poštová Staromestská Jedlíkova Rybárskabr. Dvořákovo nábrežie Rázusovo nábrežie Palackého Laurinská Mostová Tobrucká Drevená Hlavné nám. Radničná Baštová Nedbalova Župné nám. Medená Staromestská Staromestská Medená NedbalovaZámocká Podjavorinskej Vodnývrch Žižkova PilárikovaŽidovská Židovská Mikulášska Beblavého Konventná Suchémýto Train station19 min BRaTiSlava ciTy ceNTRe 1 SlovakNationalGallery 2 Reduta 3 SlovakNationalTheatreW 4 Rubberneck 5 Old Town Hall W 6 Primate’s Palace 7 Nedbalka Gallery 8 Main Square W 9 Jesuit church 10 Franciscan church W 11 Michael’s Gate W 12 Mirbach Palace 13 Pálffy Palace 14 city walls 15 Kapitulská Street 16 St Martin’s cathedral W 17 Bratislava castle W 18 HouseoftheGoodShepherd 19 SNP Bridge N 17 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 13 14 15 16 18 19 10 11 12 Slovak National Theatre

11 13 15 16 28 bratislava

8 5 9 10 12 4 3 BRaTiSlava ciTy ceNTRe 3 SlovakNationalTheatreW 4 Rubberneck 5 Old Town Hall W 8 Main Square W 9 Jesuit church 10 Franciscan church W 11 Michael’s Gate W 12 Mirbach Palace 13 Pálffy Palace 15 Kapitulská Street 16 St Martin’s cathedral W bratislava 29

30 bratislava MuseuM of viticulture The museum presents a history of Bratislava’s wine-growing culture, from the vineyards through production, to the bottle. 5 Stará radnica (OldTownHall)W city map page 27  Primaciálne námestie 3 / Hlavné námestie Å+421 (0)2 5910-0847 G www.muzeum.bratislava.ska Tue-Fri 10:00- 16:30 Sat-Sun 11:00-17:30 €6 (bulk) åé(excluding Old Town Hall Tower) WC The OldTown Hall, which dominates Bratislava’s Hlavné námestie (Main Square), is a complex of historical buildings dating from the 13th century. Its current appear- ance is the result of development spanning centuries. The oldest section is the early gothic edifice belonging to the Jacobus’ House, which served as a town hall in the 14th century. The city council gradually bought neighbouring buildings and re-developed and extended the complex in Renais- sance, baroque and neo-gothic styles. The complex formerly housed mayoral offices, accommodation for town guards, an armoury and a prison. Nowadays the OldTown Hall, with preserved historical architecture and decoration, is square-shaped, around a courtyard in which various cultural events are held. The tower affords a view over the Main Square and all of the OldTown. The town hall houses the Bratislava City Museum, which opened in 1868 and is the oldest continually operating museum in Slovakia.Today it is spread across the OldTown Hall and the adjoining Apponyi Palace, the former home of Count Apponyi, which was built in 1761-62. The museum houses three permanent exhibitions focusing on city history, viticulture and a Period Rooms Museum, which provides an insight into the lives of the Bratislavan aristocracy from the 18th -19th centuries. Period rooMs MuseuM The rooms of the apponyi Pa- lace are furnished to resemble the interiors of noble town houses through Bratislava’s history, featuring restored wall paintings, interior architecture and furniture. city History MuseuM The Old Town Hall houses an exhibition of the history of Bratislava from pre-history to the present day.

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Bratislava ~goes~ classical NEW PORTAL FOR TOP CLASSICAL PERFORMANCES IN BRATISLAVA www.bagoclassical.sk POWERED BY NEW PORTAL FOR TOP CLASSICAL PERFORMANCES IN BRATISLAVA www.bagoclassical.sk WWW.BAGOCLASSICAL.SK 700322

bratislava 33 6 Primaciálny palác(Primate’sPalace) city map page 27  Primaciálne námestie 1 Å+421 (0)2 5935-6394 ¯a Tue-Sun 10:00-16:30 €3 åé WC The classicist Primate’s Palace, commissioned in the late 18th century for Archbishop József Batthyányi, is consid- ered to be one of the most beautiful palaces in Bratislava. The first occupant is recalled by the Batthyányi coat of arms and hat, made from iron and weighing 150 kilogrammes, which can still be seen at the top of the tympanum. The palace’s splendid Mirror Hall, which extends over two floors, has witnessed sev- eral important historical events including the signing of theTreaty of Pressburg on December 26, 1805, which followed Napoleon’s triumph in the Battle of Austerlitz. The event is commemorated by a board located near the entrance to the palace. The city council bought the palace at the beginning of the 20th century and, it currently serves as the seat of Bratislava’s mayor, a place for meetings of the city council, and for various special meetings and negotiations. Ordinarily, visitors can only see certain rooms of the palace, including the Mirror Hall, but they may also visit St Ladislaus’s Chapel, in the western part of the palace, during masses and other special occa- sions. One of the most precious collections owned by the city comprises six late Renaissance English tapestries – the Mortlake tapestries – which date from the beginning of the 17th century. The tapestries were found during the reconstruction of the palace in 1903. (Some sources falsely report that they were found in the palace’s chimneys.) Similar tapestries, depicting the tragic love story of Hero and Leander can be seen in the residence of the Swedish royal family in Stockholm. The Fountain of St George in the inner courtyard of the palace depicts the famous tussle with the dragon and, according to legend, symbolises the efforts of the Catholic Church to resist the Reformation. The Primate’s Palace, in particular its Mirror Hall, is often used for marriages or concerts. tHe fountain of st GeorGe in the Slovak version of the St George legend, the brave knight saved the virgin Dúbravka from the dragon, gaining her hand in marriage as a reward. renaissancetaPestries The tapestries are the work of the english royal manufacturer in Mortlake, near london. The chapel of St ladislaus is easily missed. although it is part of the 18th century Primate’s Palace and its impressive space stretches through each of its storeys, there are no exterior signs of a chapel, not even a tower. The classicist-style chapel was established by archbishop József Batthyányi in 1780 with an interior ceiling decorated by paintings probably by the austrian artist a. F. Maulbertsch. The chapel continues to serve its original purpose and holy masses are held here regularly (Sun 8:30). cHaPel of st ladislaus

36 bratislava with crypt that was built in the 14th century by Ján, son of Bratislava’s then a mayor Jakub. It became the funeral chapel for the mayoral family. Reconstructed in 1831, the chapel is now one of the most significant works of gothic architecture in Slovakia. New residential wings of the monastery were added during the 17th and 18th centuries. The main altar representing the annunciation was constructed between 1720 and 1730. Another chapel was added to the church in 1708, dedicated to Santa Maria di Loreto, containing a statue of the Black Madonna with Jesus. The church also houses a rare relic: the torso of Saint Reparat, who was a 4th century Christian deacon from Italy. Reparat died a martyr in 353 and had his tongue cut out and his right hand cut off. He was buried in Rome until 1769, when his body was moved to Bratislava at the request of the Franciscan friar Eugen Kósa. Today the church and monastery with garden belong to Franciscan monks and mass is celebrated every day in both Slovak and Hungarian. 11 Michalská brána (Michael’sGate)W city map page 27  Michalská 22  0.26 km / 0.16 mile (3 min) Å+421 (0)2 5443-3044 G www.muzeum.bratislava.ska Tue-Fri 10:00-17:00 Sat-Sun 11:00-18:00 €4.30 e At one time, there would have been four main gates through solid city fortifications into what is now Bratislava’s OldTown. Michael’s Gate, built at the end of the 13th century, is the only one that remains today. In the past, Michael’s Gate had a drawbridge, portcullis, and heavy wooden doors. It is now most notable for its gothic tower, which was extended to its present height in the mid-18th century and has a sculpture of St Michael standing on the top. Its name is derived from St Michael’s Church and a settlement in a suburb outside the gate. Nowadays the gate houses the Museum of Weapons andTown Fortification and climbing the tower offers a view over the old city. Beneath Michael’sTower is the so-called zero kilometre with marks showing the distances from Bratislava to 29 major cities around the world. 12 Mirbachov palác (MirbachPalace) city map page 27  Františkánske nám. 11 0.15 km / 0.09 mile (2 min) Å+421 (0)2 5443- 1556  www.gmb.ska Tue-Sun 11:00-18:00 €4 e¯WC Mirbach Palace is one of the best preserved pieces of original architecture from old Pressburg, named after its last owner Emil Mirbach. The palace today houses the Bratislava City Gallery and is a fine example of rococo architecture. It was built on the site of buildings first mentioned in 1459, as Curia Civitatis or Weiter Hof but a wealthy brewer named Michael Spech had the old buildings torn down and built the palace we see today between 1768-70. Spech sold the palace after its completion, and it had a number of owners, including Koloman Nyáry, whose beautiful coat of arms decorates the tympanum in the upper central part of the façade. On the palace’s patio is a fountain with a sculpture of the Greek god Triton and a nymph by Viktor Tilgner. The gallery showcases a permanent exhibition of central European baroque painting and sculpture as well as ever-changing temporary exhibitions, plus numerous concerts and recitals. 13Pálffyhopalác(PálffyPalace) citymappage27Panská190.28km/0.17 mile(3min)Å+421(0)25443-3627www.gmb.sk aTue-Sun11:00-18:00€4eWC Pálffy Palace offers a thorough overview of the architectural styles and historical phases which marked Bratislava’s developments. The basement holds evidence of Celtic settlements from the 1st century AD, while the Roman period can be traced through secondary building materials in the preserved early mediaeval walls from the 13th century. Michael’sGateFranciscanchurch

bratislava 37 Excavations have also revealed the basis of a gothic palace with a chapel in the basement and a stellar vault from the 15th century on the first floor of the building. The Slavonic period left its traces in the basement, where four graves from the 9th and mid-10th centuries have been discovered. Other building alterations date from the 17th and the 19th centuries. The Pálffy family took ownership of the palace in the 18th century. After the death of the last owner, count János Pálffy, who was a philanthropist, supporter and collector of art, the palace was assigned to the Bratislava City Gallery. Today it holds permanent exhibitions of gothic table painting and sculpture and central European painting and sculpture of the 19th century. 14 Hradby (city walls) citymappage27 Staromestská  0.5 km / 0.31 mile (7 min)a exterior views only In years past, only so-called royal towns enjoyed the privilege of having fortifications, and Pressburg obtained this right in 1297. The city walls encircled the relatively small area of the current Old Town, while the castle had its own fortification system. What initially helped the town to thrive behind the protection of thick stone walls and a moat later hampered its development, so Empress Maria Theresa permitted demolition of the city walls in 1775 to allow the town to grow. Relatively little of the mediaeval fortification system remains today, including only one of the original four gates, St Michael’s Gate, St Michael’s Bridge, the barbican and the moat. The biggest section of preserved walls is next to St Martin’s Cathedral, whose façade used to form part of the fortification. That is the reason there is no entrance to the cathedral from this side. Some city walls on the north side of the cathedral became the back walls of the houses in the Jewish quarter. They were eventually destroyed in the 1960s, along with the rest of the area, during the large-scale rebuilding. 15 Kapitulská ulica (KapitulskáStreet) citymappage27 Kapitulská  0.4 km / 0.25 mile (5 min) Kapitulská Street is one of the oldest thoroughfares in Bratislava and has existed since at least 1204, when a canonry relocated there from the castle hill. St Martin’s Cathedral is also located at one end, ensuring the street’s great importance. City walls built in the 14th century separated Kapitulská Street from the castle complex and the street earned the nickname cvinger, meaning the street behind the walls. It has also remained largely untouched, without shops, cafés or restaurants, to this day. Most of the buildings along the street are the property of the Catholic Church and have resisted development. Fifteen buildings on Kapitulská are on the list of cultural and historical monuments, including two palaces, the theological college (Collegium Emericanum) and some burgher houses. However a number of them are waiting for reconstruction and one of the palaces, the Eszterházy Palace is the biggest ruin in Bratislava. a view of the picturesque Kapitulská Street in the Old Town

42 bratislava 18 Dom u dobrého pastiera (House of the Good Shepherd) city map page 27  Židovská 1 0.65 km / 0.4 mile (9 min) Å+421 (0)2 5441-1940 G www.muzeum.bratislava.sk a Tue-Fri 10:00-17:00 Sat-Sun 11:00-18:00 €2.30 ä e WC The House of the Good Shepherd is among the most beautiful rococo- style buildings in central Europe, and is one of few preserved buildings of the old settlement around Bratislava Castle. It was named after the statue of Christ, the Good Shepherd, which stands in a niche on its corner. The four-floor house was built between 1760-65, in the shape of a trapezium, with an extremely narrow frontal face; the width of one room and staircase. The bottom part was used for trade and craft activities, while the upper served for accommodation. The House of the Good Shepherd has undergone several reconstructions. In addition to changes to the interior, there have been some modifications of the exterior, including the addition of white louvre windows. After a fire in 1913 the windows were substituted for ones with glass wings. The building now houses the Museum of Clocks, an exhibition of more than 60 historical timepieces from the end of the 17th century to the end of the 19th century. 19 Most SNP (Bridge of the Slovak National Uprising) city map page 27  Most SNP0.7-1.1 km / 0.43-0.68 mile (8-13 min)  3.5 km (4 min) Most SNP (No. 4, 6, 28, 29, 30, 37, 50, 70, 82, 88, 91, 133, 191, 901 - regional bus to Hainburg, AT) Å+421 (0)2 6252-0300 a Observation deck & bar Mon-Sun 10:00-23:00; restaurant Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00  €6.5 (lift to observation deck) ä e é (upon request; access only to the restaurant/bar) WC The construction of the iconic cable-stay bridge suspended over the Danube, between 1967-72, destroyed significant sections of the Old Town and the former Jewish quarter and cut the castle away from the city. Originally named after the Slovak National Uprising (SNP), the bridge was officially renamed the New Bridge between 1993-2012, reflecting the popular name for it among city residents. But it officially reverted back to its original name in 2012. The only pylon of the bridge is topped with a pod in the shape of a flying saucer, and houses a restaurant 85 metres in the air. The original concept was that the bridge should resemble the driver of a carriage, with the steel cables representing reins and the pylon the driver with a hat. Its actual appearance is best reflected in its colloquial name: the UFO bridge. There is an observation deck above the restaurant offering 360° views across the city and into Austria, made accessible to the public after the fall of the communist regime. Slavín  Na Slavíne  2 km / 1.2 miles (30 min)  1.8 km / 1.1 miles (4 min) Búdková (No. 41, 147, 203, 207)a non-stop free The Slavín monument remembers the lives of the 6,845 Soviet soldiers who died during the liberation of Bratislava in April 1945, many of whom are buried in six mass and 278 individual graves. The monument was designed by the Slovak sculptor and architect Ján Svetlík and was built between 1957-60. It was officially unveiled on April 4, 1960, the 15th anniversary of the liberation. On the same day every year since, representatives of the Slovak government and the Russian embassy lay wreaths to commemorate the victims. The central and dominant section of Slavín is a ceremonial hall tiled with marble, which is surrounded by a monumental colonnade. The entrance door is decorated with a bronze relief by Rudolf Pribiš. Above the ceremonial room there is a monumental granite pillar, towering 39.5m, and topped by an 11m-tall sculpture, designed by Alexander Trizuljak depicting a soldier carrying a flag and crushing the Nazi swastika beneath his boot. A list of Slovak towns liberated by the Red Army adorn the walls of the memorial’s basement. The monument is surrounded by a park containing trees from various parts of the former Soviet Union. Slavín offers spectacular views over major parts of Bratislava, including the Bratislava Castle. chatam Sófer Memorial  Nábrežie armádneho generála Ludvíka Svobodu 24  1.8 km / 1.1 miles (22 min)  2.1 km / 1.1 miles (3 min) Chatam Sófer (No. 4, 6, 28, 29, 30, 31, 39) Å+421 (0)2 5441-6949 G www.chatamsofer.sk a Mon-Fri, Sun (except Jewish holidays) booking necessary at +421 (0)948 554-442 (8:00-17:00) €6 The Chatam Sófer memorial is a Jewish burial shrine built over the graves of prominent rabbis and scholars, including that of Chatam Sófer himself. Sófer (1762-1839), whose original name was Moshe Schreiber, is one of orthodox Judaism’s most significant scholars, described by www.chatamsofer.sk as “world renowned for his comments on theTalmud andTora, and the

bratislava 43 founder of conservative Pressburg’s yeshiva, one of the most prominent centres of traditional Jewish learning in Europe”. This is the sole remaining part of the Jewish cemetery used until 1847 that was destroyed in 1943 during construction of the nearby tunnel. The current memorial is a result of an extensive redevelopment of the site from 2000-02 – a project by the Slovak architect Martin Kvasnica, who followed the strict requirements of the halakhah (Jewish law) when designing the monument. The memorial, which is a pilgrimage destination for many Jews from around the world, was opened in 2002 on the 240th anniversary of Chatam Sófer’s birth. eurovea W Pribinova1.2km/0.75mile(15min) 2.7km/1.7miles(4min) NovéSNDor Šafárikovonám.(No.28,133,801,X13or2,4,6,7, 78,95)Å+421(0)22091-5000www.eurovea.com aMon-Sun10:00-21:00(shops);Mon-Sun10:00- 23:00(restaurants/bars)¯®éäeWC Eurovea is a development of shops, and leisure and entertainment areas, on the north bank of the Danube near the historical city centre and next to the new building of the Slovak National Theatre. It has become a popular site for Bratislavans since its opening in 2010, thanks to a generously designed public space that slopes down to the river. The complex was designed by the Slovak architects Marek Varga, Miroslav Vrábel and Branislav Kaliský and consists of the five-star Sheraton Bratislava Hotel, apartments, as well as airy retail premises and an office complex. A monumental bronze statue of the Slovak statesman Milan Rastislav Štefánik occupies a central square with a lion standing atop a 27-metre-high plinth. Modrýkostolík(Bluechurch)W  Bezručova 2  0.9 km / 0.56 mile (11 min)  3 km / 1.9 miles (6 min) Å+421 (0)2 5273-3573a Mon-Sun 8:00-19:00 (entrance hall) U Mon-Sat 7:00, 18:00; Sun 8:00, 9:30, 11:00, 18:00 voluntary St Elizabeth’s Church, commonly known as the Blue Church, is one of the few examples of art nouveau architecture in Bratislava. It was built between 1909-13 according to plans by the Hungarian architect Edmund Lechner and was initially intended to be a chapel for students from the nearby high school. It is dedicated to St Elizabeth of Hungary, daughter of King Andrew II of the Árpád family, who was probably born in the Bratislava Castle in 1207. Its familiar name is drawn from the colour that dominates both its interior and façade: it is decked in a pastel blue mixed with white elements, and www.hotelbaronka.sk l +421/2/44872324 l recepcia@hotelbaronka.sk Gastronomy The restaurant of the Barónka**** Hotel offers local and international cuisine in a friendly environment with a nice atmosphere. Guests have at their disposal a restaurant (90 seats), a wine bar (70 seats), an exclusive winter garden (70 seats) and a summer patio (65 seats). Thanks to the cosy ambience, as well as the kind and highly-professional staff, the Barónka**** Hotel is a popular place for organising weddings. Ideal venue for corporate events or trainings The Barónka**** Hotel has two modern congress halls with a capacity of 70 and 200 seats, and three lounges suitable for organising any congresses, conferences, trainings or workshops. Accomodation The four-star Barónka Hotel offers guests a wide range of services and accommodation in 91 four- and three-star category rooms. Guests can choose from single-bed, double- and twin-bed rooms, suites in the “standard” and “business” categories, and also a room for the disabled. The stylishly furnished rooms come with air conditioning, a safe and a mini-bar. Breakfast and access to the wellness centre are included in the price. The hotel can satisfy not just individual clients, but also big groups of tourists with its capacity. Hotel Baronka.indd 1 6. 9. 2014 19:13:24 SP013302/001

44 bratislava patterned with flowers and leaves. The church remains in use today and is a popular site for wedding ceremonies. Zlaté Piesky (lake)  Zlaté Piesky  10 km / 6 miles (19 min) Zlaté piesky (No. 4, 53, 56, 57, 65) Å+421 (0)2 4425-7018 non-stop €2 (admission fee only during summer season Jun 24-Sep 1: Mon-Sun 9:00-18:00) WC It costs €2 to access this well-known Bratislava lake, close to the airport. It is open long hours (9:00-18:00) during the summer season) and is well served by restaurants and refreshment counters. It is possible to rent a paddle boat or water bikes or to play tennis here. The lake is easily accessible by public transport: take tram 4 to the end of the line, turn right, cross the street, and you are there. The nearby Shopping Palace mall provides further shopping and dining opportunities. Zlaté Piesky also offers water-skiing as well as free access to an unofficial nudist’s bathing beach on the eastern shore. 2 ČunovoW Danubiana Meulensteen art Museum  pages 204-208 action Park  page 270 White Water area  pages 249-251 3 Hrad devín (DevínCastle)W  Muránska  11 km / 7 miles (12 min) Hrad Devín (No. 29) Å+421 (0)2 6573-0105 G www.muzeum.bratislava.sk a Nov-Mar: Mon-Sun 10:00-15:30 (entry possible only in good weather); Apr, Oct: Tue-Sun 10:00-16:30; May-Sep: Tue-Fri 10:00-17:30, Sat-Sun 10:00-18:30 €3 é e (partial access; except castle tower) WC The Devín Castle, perched on a rocky cliff at the confluence of the Danube and Morava Rivers, is one of the oldest castles in Slovakia and one of its best known. Its perfect strategic location has attracted settlers since prehistoric times, and it has played an important role in the country’s military and cultural development. It remains a vivid symbol of Slovakia’s history. The first written record of Devín dates from 864, when a place named Dowina is mentioned in documents belonging to Fulda monastery. At that time it was a border fortress and one of the political and administrative centres of the Great Moravian Empire. However, the oldest artefacts found on the site date from the Stone Age, when the cliff was settled by various tribes. The Celts arrived and settled in the region in the 1st century AD, followed by the Romans. Some ruins of Roman buildings have been found here. After the fall of the Great Moravian Empire, the owners of the castle changed frequently and each gradually developed and extended it. In the 15th century the castle became the property of the Garay family, who built a palace inside the fortifications and modernised the walls around. Between 1527 and 1605, it was home to the Báthorys, who built a new palace wing in the area of the middle castle and who transformed the whole complex into the Renaissance style. The castle then became the property of the Pálffys, who were the last noble family to occupy it. Devín was no longer used as a residence from the 18th century, and subsequently it began to deteriorate. Its decline was complete in 1809 when Napoleonic armies besieged it, and blew up large portions. As the Slovak nation gradually came into being in the first half of the 19th century, however, the Devín Castle became a symbol of the national awakening, and some of its fame was restored. Various sensitive reconstruction projects throughout the 20th century have helped to offer the contemporary visitor a sense of the place’s former majesty. When visiting the castle ruins nowadays, visitors can see pieces of preserved Roman architecture plus remains of the Báthory and Garay palaces. The gothic tower palace also peaks above the whole castle area, which is still circled by fortification walls. Visitors can see the remains of the Great Moravian church from the 9th century, and although only its foundations marked by stones can be seen nowadays, there is a model depicting how the rectangular church with a trefoil apse may have looked. The whole area offers an excellent view over the Danube and into Austria. Devín’s most iconic feature is the so-called Virgin Tower, a small late Renaissance tower at the castle’s extremity, jutting out over the river path. It is the setting for numerous myths and legends, some of which are detailed in the museum about the castle’s history that can be found in its best preserved parts. There is also information about how Devín conquered water leaking into the place which is common in buildings of its age. A 55m-deep well, probably built by the Garays, can still be seen in the castle grounds. 4 devínska nováves volkswagen, off-road  pages 288-289 Photo:MiroŠvec

2 1 3 4 5 67 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 Bratislava Region The Bratislava region, the most densely settled and urbanised area of Slovakia, is bordered by the Danube River to the south and the Morava River to the west. The region consists of the Záhorie lowlands in the far west of the country and the Podunajská nížina (Danube Lowlands) towards the Hungarian south, and is divided by the heavily forested Malé Karpaty (Small Carpathian mountains) range. Its strategic location at the junction of the Czech Republic, Austria and Hungary has been a key factor in making it the most prosperous region in Slovakia. Historically, its location at the border of the Kingdon of Hungary made the region well suited for the construction of castles with the Červený Kameň, or the Red Rock Castle, being one of the most imposing and best preserved castles in Slovakia.The southeastern flanks of the Small Carpathians have been a wine-growing area for hundreds of years with the most important centres such as Svätý Jur, Pezinok and Modra nurturing their own unique tradition and many wine cellars which are open for tourists.Thanks to its terrain Bratislava Region boasts a number of comfortable cycling routes while the Slnečné jazerá summer resort (Sunny Lakes) offers a pleasant getaway from the heat of the cities during the summer season. 1 Bratislava W (city, castle, culture) pg 26-43, 244, 246, 265-266, 268, 274-275, 241, 242, 245, 270-271, 276, 282, 280-281, 285 2 Čunovo W (gallery, aqua) pg 206, 249 3 Devín W (castle - ruins) pg 44, 253 4 Devínska Nová Ves (car plant) pg 288-289, 245 5 Marianka (religion) pg 46 6 Pajštún (castle - ruins) pg 46 7 Stupava (town, farm) pg 46-47 8 Lozorno (farm, shooting range) pg 47, 270-271, 238, 276 9 Malacky (town, golf) pg 47-48, 214, 276 10 Veľké Leváre (museum) pg 48-49 11 Malé Karpaty (hiking) pg 49, 253 12 Malokarpatská vinohradnícka oblasť W (wine) pg 49, 231 13 Svätý Jur (town, wine) pg 50 14 Pezinok (town, wine) pg 50-51, 206, 228, 230, 242, 269 15 Slovenský Grob (goose-roasting) pg 52 16 Šenkvice (wine) pg 229 17 Modra (town, wine) pg 53, 229 18 Červený Kameň W (castle) pg 54-55 19 Senec (town, aqua) pg 56, 263 20 Kráľová pri Senci (museum, flights) pg 56, 268 21 Kostolná pri Dunaji (Siberian tiger) pg 57 22 Bernolákovo (golf) pg 57, 272, 276 23 Malý Dunaj (canoe) pg 249-251 24 Hamuliakovo (church) pg 57  pages 54-55  page 52  page 49  pages 245, 288-289  pages 46-47  pages 48-49 MaléKarpaty introduction to bratislava region 45 www.gob.sk

5 Marianka mapA517km/10miles(21min)NWof Bratislava1,297www.marianka.sk Mariánskeúdolie(Marianvalley) Námestie4.aprílaandPartizánskaStreetÅ+421 (0)26593-5226(parishoffice)www.marianka.sk anon-stop UMon-Sat8:00,18:00Sun8:00, 9:15,10:30(ChurchoftheNativityoftheVirginMary) e WC There are many legends surrounding the birth of Marianka’s pilgrimage site, which is Slovakia’s oldest and one of the oldest pilgrimage complexes in central Europe. Perhaps the most prominent tale is that of a local bandit, whose deformed children were healed from bathing in the site’s sacred stream. After their cure, they stumbled across the statue of the Virgin Mary, whose statue and shrine remain prominent features of the pilgrimage site today. While belief in this tale would certainly require a fertile imagination, we do know that the site’s founding as a religious complex goes back to the year 1377, when the gothic church’s foundations were first laid, although the exact date of the oldest building’s construction is still unknown. The site, which features the former Pauline monastery, is now a pilgrimage complex hosting meetings, seminars and spiritual retreats. The valley’s buildings and statues have remained true to their centuries-old heritage, with little stylistic changes to the complex’s external design. Seated deep in Marian Valley, many of the site’s historic statues and chapels are hidden amongst the foliage inviting a leisurely stroll around the grounds. Standing atop the sacred stream in the woods, the Chapel of the Holy Well remains one of Marianka’s most charming relics dating back to 1696. Its blue dome and pastel colourings match the atmosphere of the quiet valley, greatly contrasting with the interior of the church, more than 50 metres across, which boasts more ornate decoration. The exterior of the Church of the Nativity of the Virgin Mary conceals the splendour of its inside. The church’s gothic style is evident upon entering the doors, with baroque decorations including marbled columns, gilded cherub wings and stained glass windows being just some of the many adornments of the church. Busily decorated from the floor upwards, eyes of visitors naturally glance towards the ceiling. And for good reason. Each ceiling panel is devoted to a mural of a saint, each of which decoratively depicts a different scene, reminiscent of Italian frescoes. However, the real pièce de résistance is the shrine to the Virgin Mary found at the front of the church with its miniature gothic spires. 6 Hrad PaJštún (Pajštún Castle - ruins) map A 5  24 km / 15 miles (34 min) NW of Bratislava Borinka  a non-stop free The ruins of the Pajštún Castle sit atop a hill less than six kilometres from the neighbouring village of Borinka. Built in the 13th century, the mediaeval castle was one of many fortification strongholds erected along Slovakia’s southern foothills to warn of any potential invaders to the region. Although the castle was partially reconstructed after a fire in the mid-18th century, the current remains are a result of Napoleon and his army who severely destroyed the castle in 1809. Only some of the castle’s walls still remain. They impressively circle a still discernible central courtyard. Partly ensconced by the greenery below, an entrance way and arch are still evident amongst the remains. The 45-minute hike from the village of Borinka through the Small Carpathian woods is breathtaking, and the ruins at the top and the view of the Záhorská nížina lowlands and villages below are a worthwhile reward. 7 stuPava mapA519km/12miles(20min)NWof Bratislava9,282Agátová16,Stupava Å+421(0)26593-4312www.stupava.sk 0.5km/0.3mileNEofcentre  0.6km/0.4mileSofcentre October:FestivalofCabbage Kostolsv.Štefana(churchof StStephen) Námestiesv.Trojice1,Stupava Å+421(0)26593-4448aentrancehall UMon-Tue18:00,Wed7:30,Fri-Sat18:00, Sun7:15,10:45voluntary é The town of Stupava dates back to the Bronze Age, and sits less than 20 kilometres from Bratislava. Although the town cannot boast of any unique cultural haunts, there are some landmarks worth visiting if passing through. The first weekend of October is a good time to stage a visit, as visitors can catch the town’s annual Festival of Cabbage, where numerous stalls and the cabbage harvest exhibition line the streets. From Stupava’s mansion to its Roman Catholic church, the vicinity of the main street is home to the town’s most interesting buildings. The town’s impressive mansion dates back to the 12th century and sits in an English park. It now serves as a retirement home. Synagóga (synagogue)  Hlavná 1614, Stupava Å+421 (0)904 106-456 ¯  ® www.slovak-jewish-heritage.org afor performances only depends on performance WC 46 bratislava region www.gob.sk

bratislava region 47 Stupava’s synagogue from 1803 is one of the oldest synagogues in Slovakia and adds notable cultural value to the country’s Jewish heritage. It is a unique example of the nine-bay type synagogue with the only other one of this type in Bardejov. Biofarm Stupava  pass through Stupava and continue in the Lozorno direction for approximately 3 km. Then turn right onto a narrow two-way road through the forest Å+421 (0)918 280-546 www.biofram.sk  10:00-21:00  11:00-20:00 free ä In Stupava, tourists can soon be surrounded by sheep, pigs, horses and other domestic animals in a unique bio farm, where visitors can also taste the national cuisine in a local restaurant or buy some food as a present. The Slovak cheeses korbáčiky and bryndza are both available in the shop, as well as žinčica (a sheep’s milk product) or home-made bread and cakes. The farm is especially popular with families, and features a children’s playground, plus the opportunity to ride horses and ponies or to pet various other animals. You can sample your food and drink on a small terrace area and enjoy the entertainment. 8 lozorno mapA525km/16miles(23min) NofBratislava abeland Abelandislocatedinthevillageof Lozorno,about1kmpastVodnánádrždam inthedirectionofSvätýJurÅ+421(0)904 237-777www.abeland.skaSep-Jun:Sat 10:00-18:00é The village of Lozorno is another welcome stop if tourists are fleeing hectic city life. The wooden village of Abeland is situated nearby, which features a chalet, a tea house and a church all constructed from timber. There is a, relaxing atmosphere as visitors gaze at still ponds stocked with fish or the surrounding untarnished environment. Tourists can try shooting with a traditional bow and arrow, horse-riding, fencing or observing the locals go about their daily business which they carry out dressed in period costumes. They can also encounter more domestic animals, such as ducks, pigs or quails and sample homemade goulash. For those who like real guns, the shooting range in Lozorno is an option ( pages 270-271). 9 Malacky mapA437km/23miles(30min)NWof Bratislava17,051www.malacky.sk KaplnkaSvätýchschodov (HolyStairsintheFranciscanchurch) Kláštornénámestie3,Malacky Å+421(0)34772- 2189www.malacky.skaunderreconstruction U Mon-Sat7:00,18:30,Sun7:00,9:00,10:30,18:30 (FranciscanChurch) Synagóga(Synagogue) Nabrehu2,MalackyÅ+421(0)34772-2286a bookingnecessary The Pálffy family, whose architectural legacy stretches from Slovakia to Austria, had a significant influence on the town of Malacky. A dynasty renowned for impressive castles and gothic restoration, hallmarks of the Pálffy flair can be found in the Franciscan church and monastery located on the town’s central square. The current church is attached to a monastery now serving as an elementary school and library, and being rebuilt from a fortified manor house by Pál Pálffy IV in the 17th century. Previously nicknamed the Black Monastery, the church conceals a marble-trimmed crypt with coffins of two Pálffy members. Legend has it that while the bodies of Pál Pálffy IV and his son, János III, are buried in Bratislava, their hearts are kept in the church complex, and bleed whenever the country is under siege. Above ground, the rich mahogany furnishings and large frescoes high on the church’s walls are characteristic of Pálffy grandeur, but the jewel of the building is the great baroque altar piece, which stretches from floor to ceiling. The Holy Stairs (or Scala Sancta), now under reconstruction, are located in the church’s chapel. They are a genuine replica of the original stairs in Rome, while another replica is in Jerusalem. Not far from the town square sits the synagogue built in 1886-1887. It is the work of architect Wilhelm Stiassny. Although the building, which is a fine example of Moorish-style architecture, is now used for cultural purposes, the synagogue’s original Photo:courtesyofAbeland www.gob.sk

columns and ornate interior doors are still recognisable. Another piece of architecture in Malacky recalling the history of the Pálffy family is the extensive Renaissance manor house located in an English park dating back to 1624. It has been undergoing gradual reconstruction and part of it is already opened to the public. White eurovalley Golf Park  Továrenská ulica 5486, Malacky Å+421 (0)911 243-101 www.golf.sk a Mon 10:00-20:00 Tue-Sun 8:00-20:00 from €18 åe WC Like many Slovak golf centres, White Eurovalley Golf Park is much more than just another 18-hole golf course. Actually, there are 27 holes divided into two courses – one a nine-hole 2,800 metre, par 36 Public course, and the other, White, an 18-hole 6,133 metre, Par 75 more challenging course. The front nine (par 37) of the White Course is largely on white sand (thus the name) and the back nine (par 38) mostly pine trees. The front nine is more open, featuring a number of both sand and water hazards while the back has narrower fairways and rewards golfers with more accurate shots. It is possible to play a variety of combinations of the three 9-hole units. The Golf Academy part of the golf park features a large driving range, two pitching greens and two putting greens. There are also facilities to work on a golfer’s sand-game, including both short and long stroke. The facility offers a variety of instructional programmes with several golf instructors. White Eurovalley Golf Park is conveniently located just 38 kilometres north of Bratislava, between Plavecký Štvrtok and Malacky. The pro shop is well supplied and the café/restaurant features indoor and outdoor seating. The location of the pro shop/restaurant complex, in the middle of the golf park, creates some parking issues. Still the tall pine trees and the quiet make it a relaxing as well as a challenging way to wile away an afternoon. 10 veľké leváre map A 4  47 km / 28.9 miles (36 min) NW of Bratislava  3,550 www.levare.sk   Habánske múzeum / Habánsky dvor (Haban Museum / Haban yard)  Habánsky Dvor 78, Veľké Leváre Å+421 (0)34 779-4493 G www.zahorskemuzeum.sk a booking necessery €0.66 e WC Kostol Mena Panny Márie (church of the Name of the virgin Mary)  Štefánikova 753, Veľké Leváre Å+421 (0)34 779-4108 afor services U Mon-Fri 17:30, Sat 8:00, Sun 10:00, 18:30 The Habans were followers of an ultra-nonconformist Christian doctrine which, among other things, held that believers should be baptised as youths, not as infants. Followers are also known as Anabaptists. This may not sound like a big deal now, but in the religious turmoil of the 16th and 17th -century Europe it was regarded as heresy and frequently resulted in severe persecution. Several groups left their original homes in Germany, some heading west to North America (where one group became known as the Amish), and others heading east, some ending up in the village of Veľké Leváre in Záhorie. Local landowners were keen for them to settle here: they were well-behaved, reliable taxpayers and prodigiously hard workers. Their main occupation was pottery making. Haban designs are very similar to those still used in the Modra pottery; indeed it is very likely that this is where the Modra potters got their techniques. The main difference is that Haban designs never use red, which is associated with blood. The Habans were not allowed to settle in the centre of Veľké Leváre, instead forming a compound around a square on the edge of the village with a mill, workshops, a church, meeting hall and houses (the word Haban refers to their distinctive homes). Theirs was a culture apart: children were brought up communally; marriage to non-Habans was prohibited and, since the community was small, a board approved marriages to prevent in-breeding. The Haban Museum, in a house in the square, provides some fascinating glimpses into their 48 bratislava regionPhoto:courtesyofWhiteEurovalleyGolfPark HabanMuseum HolyStairs www.gob.sk

lifestyle. One description, dated 1660, describes how they worked six days a week, with just 15 minutes for lunch, and rarely spoke, especially when working. Note that most exhibits are not yet labelled in English. Tolerance of their beliefs was to be short-lived. Empress Maria Theresa decided in 1761 that they must become Catholics, while allowing them the privilege of a separate church. From then on the noose tightened. By 1763 Habans were fleeing to the forests to avoid persecution. By the 1780s most had left or converted. The community disappeared during the 19th century, though some local people still claim to descend from them. Veľké Leváre is also home to a huge baroque church, built by the archbishop of Vienna, Cardinal Sigismund Kollonich. It was consecrated in September 1733 on the anniversary of the Ottoman defeat at the Battle of Vienna 50 years earlier. 11 Malé karPaty map A 4, 5, B 4  5-105 km / 3-65 miles (5-70 min) NE of Bratislava; highest point: Záruby (767 metres / 2,516 ft) One of the most distinctive features of Slovakia’s landscape is the Malé Karpaty, or Small Carpathians. This range of hills is not particularly high (Záruby, its highest peak, is 767 metres / 2,516 ft above sea level), but it is visible across the Danubian plain from many kilometres away. Aside from the fine forest cycling or walks in the hills close to the capital, which can be reached simply by boarding a trolley-bus in the city centre, the whole of the range, and the towns and villages along its eastern flanks, make for a great day, or days, out. Before hitting the trails, be sure to pick up the Malé Karpaty-Bratislava hiking map. The map outlines hiking and biking trails throughout the region, including trails in the Carpathians to castle ruins such as Pajštún, Plavecký hrad, Ostrý Kameň and the Červený Kameň Castle. The south-eastern flanks of these hills have been a wine-growing area for hundreds of years. Further out, towns such as Svätý Jur, Pezinok and Modra nestle at the bottom of the wooded hills, each nurturing their own unique food, drink and folk culture. They are linked by a local tourism initiative, the Little Carpathians Wine Route (MVC). 12 MalokarPatská vinoHrad.oBlasť (Small CarpathianWine Region) W map A 5, B 4,5  5-55 km / 3-34 miles (55 min) NE of Bratislava  more than 30 towns and villages along the east side of the Small Carpathians  January: Day of Svätý Jur cellars; February: Pezinok wine cellars; March: Vitis Aurera in Modra; April: Exhibition of wines in Svätý Jur and Rhine Riesling competition, Day of Modra cellars, Festival of Slovak wines in Bratislava, Wine Markets in Pezinok; May: Day of Open Cellars; May/June: Festival of Frankovka in Bratislava; September: Vintage in several towns of the region; November: Day of Open Cellars There are countless examples of wine cellars in the Small Carpathian Wine Region, a string of more than 30 towns and villages along the east side of the Small Carpathians of which Pezinok, Modra and Svätý Jur are the best known. There are more than 100 winegrowers in this region, each following a tradition that dates from Roman times. Many places are open for wine lovers and booking is not necessary ( page 228-231). In order to satisfy the growing interest in the wine of smaller producers, winemakers organise events. They open their doors to offer wines for tasting at places which are not opened for tourists throughout the year. These Open Cellars festivals date only from the fall of the previous regime, but there are also a number of grape harvest festivals, known as vinobranie, whose traditions even the communists could not interrupt. A lot of wine producers are part of the Little Carpathian Wine Route which is the oldest wine route in Slovakia developed in 1995. The aim of these wine producers has been to foster the development of the Small Carpathian region, especially in tourism connected to its winemaking traditions. MVC’s most popular event is its Day of Open Wine Cellars in May and November. bratislava region 49ChurchoftheNameofVirginMary DevínskaKobylaintheSmallCarpathians www.gob.sk

13 svätý Jur map A 5  17 km / 10 miles (24 min) NE of Bratislava  Prostredná 64, Svätý Jur Å+421 (0)2 4497-0449  5,141 www.svatyjur.sk    January: Day of cellars; April: Exhibition of wines and Rhine Riesling competition; May: Day of Open Cellars; September: Vintage; November: Day of Open Cellars Nestled at the foot of the Small Carpathian mountains, the town of Svätý Jur is surrounded by vast vineyards. The town’s winemaking tradition is still practiced today and is said to have persisted through Svätý Jur’s struggle for independence from domestic and foreign rule in the 16th and 17th centuries. The town experienced many changes during the 20th century, including agricultural co-operatives taking over neighbouring vineyards. This led to experimentation with more large-scale winemaking. In recent years however, the town’s small and local winemakers have resurrected the winemaking tradition, as evident from the numerous wineries scattered around the town. Kostol Najsvätejšej Trojice (church of the Holy Trinity)  Dr. Kautza 17, Svätý Jur Å+421 (0)2 4497- 1454 a entrance hall U Mon, Wed-Fri 18:30, Tue-Sat 7:30, Sun 7:30, 10:00 é Although small, an enjoyable hour or two can be spent wandering the streets of Svätý Jur. On a quiet road off the town’s main square are the Church of the HolyTrinity and the Piarist Monastery. Built in the 17th century, the Order of Piarists played an important part in the educational development of the town, founding schools which saw such figures as celebrated botanist Alexander Zahlbruckner and writer Juraj Fándly in attendance. The current façade of the complex, which comprises the Piarist church and monastery, attained its acquired appearance through renovations in the 20th century, and its meticulously-kept amber exterior is a testament to its present-day importance. Next to the church is located the popular Čokokafé patisserie. Zichyho kúria (Zichy Manor House)  Prostredná 29, Svätý Jur Å+421 (0)2 4497- 0476 G www. muzeumpezinok.sk a Tue-Fri 8:00-16:00, Sat 10:00-16:00 (Apr-Sep only) €1 å e WC Not far from the main square is the Zichy Manor House. Once a residence for the noble Zichy family, it is now the site of the Museum of Local History, Culture and Literature, exhibiting displays depicting life of local inhabitants and their winemaking traditions. Past the Evangelical Church on the corner of the main square sits the early Renaissance Armbuster Manor. While the building itself is private property and cannot be entered, the arch connecting the timeworn manor to the neighbouring residential buildings provides a scenic opening to the vineyards around the town. Walking around Svätý Jur, the surrounding vineyards never fail to impress, and the archway by the town’s outskirts – the remains of Svätý Jur’s fortification wall dating back to the 17th century – are worth a visit. Kostol sv. Juraja (church of St George)  Horné predmestie 18, Svätý Jur Å+421 (0)2 4497-1454 a entrance hall U Tue-Sat 18:00, Sun 9:00, 10:30 At the top of the hill, the gothic Church of St George and the wooden belfry look over the town. The church is one of the town’s oldest sites, named after the town’s founder - Svätý Juraj (St George), and its interior architecture has largely remained the same since its construction. Dating in part from as early as the 13th century, the church contains an intricately carved sandstone altar depicting St George slaying the dragon, which was created in 1517 by the same master responsible for St Anne’s in Vienna. 14 Pezinok map B 5  22 km / 13.7 miles (29 min) NE of Bratislava  21,179  Old Town Hall, M. R. Štefánika 1, Pezinok Å+421 (0)33 640-6989 www.pezinok.sk 0.2 km / 0.1 mile SW of centre  0.6 km / 0.3 mile SW of centre  February: Pezinok wine cellars; April: Wine Markets; May: Day of Open Cellars; June: Ceramics market; July: Wine and Lavender; August: Festival of Brass Bands; September: Vintage; November: Day of Open Cellars Many towns in Bratislava Region tucked into the foothills of the Small Carpathian mountains are well known for their vineyards and winemaking traditions. Pezinok is no exception, and although the town has a long history dating back millennia, its current state owes its roots in the events and traditions of more recent centuries. Like many towns in Slovakia, Pezinok eventually fell into the hands of the Pálffy family in 1735. Those familiar with the Pálffy’s numerous abodes across the country will recognise a thing or two in Pezinok. Dolný Kostol Premenenia Pána (lower church of the Transfiguration)  Holubyho, Pezinok Å+421 (0)33 641-2270 a exterior views, UMon-Fri 7:00, 17:00, Sat 7:00 Sun 7:00, 9:00, 11:00, 17:00 In contrast to other squares in Slovak towns and cities, Pezinok’s main square is surprisingly cuboid.Taking up one corner of the square, the Lower Church of theTransfiguration sits in stony splendour towering over the old town hall next door. It is a Catholic church, built in the 17th century, and although it appears immense from the outside, the interior feels much smaller. Nevertheless, its faded frescoes, traditional ornaments and body of a Renaissance organ more than make up for its more modest measurements. 50 bratislava region www.gob.skAltar in the Church of St George Church of St George

Just a thirty minute drive from Bratislava, in the heart of the Small Carpathian winemaking region, lies the town of Pezinok. The first written mention of Pezinok dates back to the 13th century, and since then its development was influenced by German settlers. With their technology and knowl- edge, they helped foster a tradition of winemak- ing, resulting in wine that was favoured even by the royal Habsburg family. The Small Carpathian Museum in Pezinok, in the centre of this winemaking town, outlines the rich history of winemaking and viticulture in the whole Small Carpathian area. The 17th century building houses authentic rooms where wine was actually produced and stored. Visitors can also see the big- gest collection of unique wine presses in central Europe. Two of the museum’s exhibitions, The Story of Wine and The History of Winemaking, will lead you through two millenniums of growing the grape- vine (Vitis vinifera) commonly found in the Small Carpathians. They detail the specifics of the region, reveal the oldest findings showing the consumption of wine, and tell the tumultuous history of the 20th cen- tury, which had a crucial impact on winemaking in the region. The exhibitions contain interactive elements, like an inebriation simulator, touch-screen monitors, bottle corking and even activities for children. Visitors’senses are saturated by the possibility to touch a 400-year-old grape press, smell hidden flavours in wine and, last but not least, taste a glass of high-quality wine Apart from tours of the exhibitions and organising special art events, the museum also offers tastings of the best local wines, combined with samples of natural Slovak cheeses. Moreover, visitors can partake in a unique practice in Slovakia: tasting wine in absolute darkness. Through a range of experiences connecting his- tory with modern elements, we will let you taste the Small Carpathian region. Malokarpatské múzeum v Pezinku, M.R. Štefánika 4, 902 01 Pezinok Tel: +421 (0)33 641-3347 e-mail: muzeumpezinok@muzeumpezinok.sk www.muzeumpezinok.sk Small Carpathian Museum in Pezinok - history with a wine soul SP013321/001

Mestské múzeum v Starej radnici (city Museum in Old Town Hall)  M. R. Štefánika 1, Pezinok Å+421 (0)33 641- 2306 G www.mestskemuzeumpk.sk  Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00, Sat 10:00-16:00 €0.80 ä e WC The old town hall contrasts with the rough exterior of the Lower Church, with quaint turrets and classical Latin script painted along the walls’ crest. Dating back to the 18th century, the building’s more modern look can be attributed to its reconstruction following a fire in 1832, after which a classicist style was adopted. Although it no longer functions as a town hall, the building appears to have remained the social heart of the square, with a ground floor almost exclusively devoted to cafés and restaurants. Marian Column, constructed in 1749, is decorously haloed and only returned as the square’s centrepiece in 2001 after extensive reconstruction. Národný salón vín v Pezinskom zámku (Slovak National collection of Wine in the Pezinok castle)  Mladoboleslavská 5, Pezinok Å+421 (0)33 640-5174 www.nsvsr.sk a Tue-Sun 11:00-18:00 from €16.99 (open wine tasting) åé(partly) WC The north part of the town centre is home to the Pezinok Castle and an English park. The castle was originally built at the turn of the 14th century. Despite surviving centuries of reconstruction – and even a lightning strike in 1875 – the main body of the castle is currently unused. The cellar is still operational, and houses the National Collection of Wine. This is a collection of the best 100 Slovak wines of the given year. Visitors, after paying a fee, can taste any of them. The large-scale oak barrels located in a side room are worth examining because the front of each barrel contains unique carvings of saints. The park behind the castle, created in 1884 by Count Ferenc Pálffy, matches the famed grandeur of the Pálffy castle. Peacocks still wander the grounds. Gotický Kostol Nanebovzatia Panny Márie (Gothic church of the assumption of the virgin Mary)  Farská 1, Pezinok a under reconstrucion The gothic Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary offers a particularly impressive tower, which was built only after the construction of the church at the start of the 14th century. It is widely accepted that the current building sits on top of what was once an old romanesque church. Such findings as a rare Renaissance baptismal basin from the 16th century as well as a 15th century burial chamber are among the more interesting things inside. Malokarpatské múzeum (Small-carpathian Museum)  M. R. Štefánika 4, Pezinok Å+421 (0)33 641- 3347 G www.muzeumpezinok.sk aTue-Fri 9:00-12:00, 13:00-16:00 Sat 10:00-16:00 Sun 14:00-16:00 (Sun closed Nov-May); wine tasting: reservation in advance required from €4 e WC Nearby the town square is the Small-Carpathian Museum, with an abundance of antique winemaking machinery located in the cellar. Ranging from clay pots encasing the floral essences of wines to time- worn 19th -century pesticide dispensers, the museum offers an array of equipment relating to the region’s winemaking traditions. The most impressive item, located just outside the doors of the museum, is the grape press, rare both for its elm body and its magnitude. areál zdravia Rozálka (horses)  pagy 242 15 slovenský GroB map B 5  21 km / 13 miles (27 min) NE of Bratislava  2,129 www.slovensky-grob.sk  Slovenský Grob, located less than 30 km north-east of Bratislava, can boast a goose-roasting history. The village’s busy thoroughfare and the neat houses lining the main road may at first conjure feelings of a suburban street, but the faint smell of farmyards will quickly remind visitors of the village’s earthy history. The goose-roasting tradition in Slovenský Grob is a result of the natural fertility of the land, which has been the site of lakes, marshes and arable pastures for centuries. With its ideal conditions for roasting poultry, geese were traditionally kept for private use or sale by local families, and the custom of selling geese ready roasted did not arise until the last century, when an economic crisis forced many families to sell roasted meat in markets in Pezinok, Svätý Jur and Bratislava. Only later, when gourmets wanted to enjoy roasted geese warm, housewives began to serve this delicacy directly in their homes. By walking down Slovenský Grob’s main street, it is clear that the town’s goose-roasting tradition is still very much alive, and houses and restaurants alike can be seen with statues and plaques of geese adorning gardens or perching atop post boxes. Although many locals insist the fertility of the land is not what it used to be, the more than 20 restaurants in the town, which pride themselves on serving goose feasts, bear testament to the tradition’s survival. 16 šenkvice (wine)  page 229 52 bratislava region Grape press at the Small- -carpathian Museum www.gob.sk

17 Modra map B 4  27 km / 16.8 miles (31 min) NE of Bratislava  8,751  www.visitmodra.sk  Štúrova 59, Modra Å+421 (0)33 690-8333  March: Vitis Aurea in Modra; April: Day of Modra Cellars; May: Day of Open Cellars; June: Conquering Modra and Historical June Ball; July: International Guitar Festival; September: Vintage; Celebration of Clay - Ceramics; November: Day of Open Cellars Sitting less than 30 kilometres outside Bratislava, the town of Modra deftly melds old and new, with remnants of its centuries-old fortification scattered amongst the town’s more modern homes. The outskirts of the town promise little in terms of interesting sites to visit, but moving close to the town centre is worth an afternoon. Wine-production and ceramics, pastimes still practiced in Modra, hold important places in the town’s cultural history, and the former served as the town’s main economy as far back as the 14th century. Over the centuries, the town has seen numerous notables pass through, with Ľudovít Štúr’s stay honoured by his statue and museum which are both still accessible on the main square. Just a few minutes walk from the square stands the Upper Gate, which is the last remaining town gate belonging to Modra’s former defence structures. Even those with only the mildest interest in history should see Modra’s mediaeval fortification systems, parts of which can be found throughout the town centre. Remnants of the fortification wall itself, built over the years from 1610 and emulating a Hungarian model, pop up unexpectedly and often in residential areas, giving the town an old-world charm. Múzeum slovenskej keramickej plastiky a Galéria ignáca Bizmayera (Museum of Slovak ceramics Sculpture and Gallery of ignác Bizmayer)  Kukučínova 15, Modra Å+421 (0)905 719- 273 G  www.sng.sk  Apr-Oct: Tue-Fri 8:30-16:00 Sat 9:00-15:00  Nov-Mar: Tue-Fri 8:30-16:00 €3 (bulk ticket), €60 (ceramics course, price for groups) In addition to exhibition the museum also offers a course in ceramics production. For the course, booking by e-mail (mls@snm.sk) is necessary two weeks before the visit at the least. e é(partly) WC In the town’s northwest, the rotund Bastion, nicknamed Red, still stands in excellent condition and is attached to a relatively unscathed section of the fortification wall. Once the town’s defence tower, the Bastion is now the home of a ceramics museum and holds the permanent exhibition of Modra’s celebrated ceramicist, Ignác Bizmayer, whose work is exhibited on all four floors of the building. Bizmayer’s A Year of Winemaking exhibit, which charts each stage of the traditional winemaking process, is particularly interesting as it aptly captures the two traditions of Modra; winemaking and ceramics. Next door, a newly refurbished gallery in the outer building is the site of a contemporary ceramics exhibit and stands as a testament to the significant role ceramics still plays in Modra today. Pamätná izba Ľudovíta Štúra (Ľudovít Štúr Memorial Room)  Štúrova 84, Modra Å+421 (0)905 719-273 G www.snm.sk  Apr-Oct: Tue-Fri 8:30-16:00 Sat 9:00-15:00  Nov-Mar: Tue-Fri 8:30-16:00 (booking necessary) €1 eéWC At the heart of Modra is the town square and the Carrara marble statue of Ľudovít Štúr (1815–1856), the leader of the Slovak national revival in the 19th century and the author of the Slovak language standards that led to the contemporary Slovak language. Built in 1938 by the sculptor Miroslav Motoška, Štúr is flanked by a statue representing volunteers in the Slovak national revival of 1848-1849, while on the other, the figures of Štúr’s friends – Jozef Miloslav Hurban, Michal Miroslav Hodža and Ján Francisci – stand proud. Also in the square and just metres from the statues, is the Museum of Ľudovít Štúr, which houses the only remaining photograph of the man himself. The museum is modest but offers detailed information on the life of Štúr and guided tours in English can be arranged. In the memorial next door you can find Štúr’s deathbed as well as some more unconventional relics, such as a tuft of Štúr’s hair. Such quirkiness only adds to the appeal of the museum. Farský kostol sv. Štefana kráľa (Parish church of St Stephen the King)  Štúrova 58, Modra Å+421 (0)33 647-2546 aentrance hall U Mon-Tue, Sat 18:00 Wed 7:00 Thu 16:00, 18:00 Sun 7:30, 10:30 voluntary evanjelický chrám Boží apoštolov Petra a Pavla (evangelical church of the apostles Peter and Paul)  Dolná 3, Modra Å+421 (0)33 647-2733 aexterior views only U Sun 18:00 To the south and all located on one street are three churches. The church closest to the town square is the Roman Catholic Parish Church of St Stephen the King, built between 1873 and 1876 in a neo-Renaissance style. While this church has its own charm, it is the two churches standing side by side further down the street that are of particular interest. The Slovak church, which is the Evangelical Church of the Apostles Peter and Paul, is stylistically different from its German counterpart. The fading paint of the Slovak church, which has great detail on its front and sides, contrasts with its neighbour whose sharper edges and grey façade render it less ceremonious though equally striking. bratislava region 53 Traditional ceramics from Modra UpperGateRedBastion www.gob.sk

Mestské múzeum v Starej radnici (city Museum in Old Town Hall)  M. R. Štefánika 1, Pezinok Å+421 (0)33 641- 2306 G www.mestskemuzeumpk.sk  Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00, Sat 10:00-16:00 €0.80 ä e WC The old town hall contrasts with the rough exterior of the Lower Church, with quaint turrets and classical Latin script painted along the walls’ crest. Dating back to the 18th century, the building’s more modern look can be attributed to its reconstruction following a fire in 1832, after which a classicist style was adopted. Although it no longer functions as a town hall, the building appears to have remained the social heart of the square, with a ground floor almost exclusively devoted to cafés and restaurants. Marian Column, constructed in 1749, is decorously haloed and only returned as the square’s centrepiece in 2001 after extensive reconstruction. Národný salón vín v Pezinskom zámku (Slovak National collection of Wine in the Pezinok castle)  Mladoboleslavská 5, Pezinok Å+421 (0)33 640-5174 www.nsvsr.sk a Tue-Sun 11:00-18:00 from €16.99 (open wine tasting) åé(partly) WC The north part of the town centre is home to the Pezinok Castle and an English park. The castle was originally built at the turn of the 14th century. Despite surviving centuries of reconstruction – and even a lightning strike in 1875 – the main body of the castle is currently unused. The cellar is still operational, and houses the National Collection of Wine. This is a collection of the best 100 Slovak wines of the given year. Visitors, after paying a fee, can taste any of them. The large-scale oak barrels located in a side room are worth examining because the front of each barrel contains unique carvings of saints. The park behind the castle, created in 1884 by Count Ferenc Pálffy, matches the famed grandeur of the Pálffy castle. Peacocks still wander the grounds. Gotický Kostol Nanebovzatia Panny Márie (Gothic church of the assumption of the virgin Mary)  Farská 1, Pezinok a under reconstrucion The gothic Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary offers a particularly impressive tower, which was built only after the construction of the church at the start of the 14th century. It is widely accepted that the current building sits on top of what was once an old romanesque church. Such findings as a rare Renaissance baptismal basin from the 16th century as well as a 15th century burial chamber are among the more interesting things inside. Malokarpatské múzeum (Small-carpathian Museum)  M. R. Štefánika 4, Pezinok Å+421 (0)33 641- 3347 G www.muzeumpezinok.sk aTue-Fri 9:00-12:00, 13:00-16:00 Sat 10:00-16:00 Sun 14:00-16:00 (Sun closed Nov-May); wine tasting: reservation in advance required from €4 e WC Nearby the town square is the Small-Carpathian Museum, with an abundance of antique winemaking machinery located in the cellar. Ranging from clay pots encasing the floral essences of wines to time- worn 19th -century pesticide dispensers, the museum offers an array of equipment relating to the region’s winemaking traditions. The most impressive item, located just outside the doors of the museum, is the grape press, rare both for its elm body and its magnitude. areál zdravia Rozálka (horses)  pagy 242 15 slovenský GroB map B 5  21 km / 13 miles (27 min) NE of Bratislava  2,129 www.slovensky-grob.sk  Slovenský Grob, located less than 30 km north-east of Bratislava, can boast a goose-roasting history. The village’s busy thoroughfare and the neat houses lining the main road may at first conjure feelings of a suburban street, but the faint smell of farmyards will quickly remind visitors of the village’s earthy history. The goose-roasting tradition in Slovenský Grob is a result of the natural fertility of the land, which has been the site of lakes, marshes and arable pastures for centuries. With its ideal conditions for roasting poultry, geese were traditionally kept for private use or sale by local families, and the custom of selling geese ready roasted did not arise until the last century, when an economic crisis forced many families to sell roasted meat in markets in Pezinok, Svätý Jur and Bratislava. Only later, when gourmets wanted to enjoy roasted geese warm, housewives began to serve this delicacy directly in their homes. By walking down Slovenský Grob’s main street, it is clear that the town’s goose-roasting tradition is still very much alive, and houses and restaurants alike can be seen with statues and plaques of geese adorning gardens or perching atop post boxes. Although many locals insist the fertility of the land is not what it used to be, the more than 20 restaurants in the town, which pride themselves on serving goose feasts, bear testament to the tradition’s survival. 16 šenkvice (wine)  page 229 52 bratislava region Grape press at the Small- -carpathian Museum www.gob.sk

17 Modra map B 4  27 km / 16.8 miles (31 min) NE of Bratislava  8,751  www.visitmodra.sk  Štúrova 59, Modra Å+421 (0)33 690-8333  March: Vitis Aurea in Modra; April: Day of Modra Cellars; May: Day of Open Cellars; June: Conquering Modra and Historical June Ball; July: International Guitar Festival; September: Vintage; Celebration of Clay - Ceramics; November: Day of Open Cellars Sitting less than 30 kilometres outside Bratislava, the town of Modra deftly melds old and new, with remnants of its centuries-old fortification scattered amongst the town’s more modern homes. The outskirts of the town promise little in terms of interesting sites to visit, but moving close to the town centre is worth an afternoon. Wine-production and ceramics, pastimes still practiced in Modra, hold important places in the town’s cultural history, and the former served as the town’s main economy as far back as the 14th century. Over the centuries, the town has seen numerous notables pass through, with Ľudovít Štúr’s stay honoured by his statue and museum which are both still accessible on the main square. Just a few minutes walk from the square stands the Upper Gate, which is the last remaining town gate belonging to Modra’s former defence structures. Even those with only the mildest interest in history should see Modra’s mediaeval fortification systems, parts of which can be found throughout the town centre. Remnants of the fortification wall itself, built over the years from 1610 and emulating a Hungarian model, pop up unexpectedly and often in residential areas, giving the town an old-world charm. Múzeum slovenskej keramickej plastiky a Galéria ignáca Bizmayera (Museum of Slovak ceramics Sculpture and Gallery of ignác Bizmayer)  Kukučínova 15, Modra Å+421 (0)905 719- 273 G  www.sng.sk  Apr-Oct: Tue-Fri 8:30-16:00 Sat 9:00-15:00  Nov-Mar: Tue-Fri 8:30-16:00 €3 (bulk ticket), €60 (ceramics course, price for groups) In addition to exhibition the museum also offers a course in ceramics production. For the course, booking by e-mail (mls@snm.sk) is necessary two weeks before the visit at the least. e é(partly) WC In the town’s northwest, the rotund Bastion, nicknamed Red, still stands in excellent condition and is attached to a relatively unscathed section of the fortification wall. Once the town’s defence tower, the Bastion is now the home of a ceramics museum and holds the permanent exhibition of Modra’s celebrated ceramicist, Ignác Bizmayer, whose work is exhibited on all four floors of the building. Bizmayer’s A Year of Winemaking exhibit, which charts each stage of the traditional winemaking process, is particularly interesting as it aptly captures the two traditions of Modra; winemaking and ceramics. Next door, a newly refurbished gallery in the outer building is the site of a contemporary ceramics exhibit and stands as a testament to the significant role ceramics still plays in Modra today. Pamätná izba Ľudovíta Štúra (Ľudovít Štúr Memorial Room)  Štúrova 84, Modra Å+421 (0)905 719-273 G www.snm.sk  Apr-Oct: Tue-Fri 8:30-16:00 Sat 9:00-15:00  Nov-Mar: Tue-Fri 8:30-16:00 (booking necessary) €1 eéWC At the heart of Modra is the town square and the Carrara marble statue of Ľudovít Štúr (1815–1856), the leader of the Slovak national revival in the 19th century and the author of the Slovak language standards that led to the contemporary Slovak language. Built in 1938 by the sculptor Miroslav Motoška, Štúr is flanked by a statue representing volunteers in the Slovak national revival of 1848-1849, while on the other, the figures of Štúr’s friends – Jozef Miloslav Hurban, Michal Miroslav Hodža and Ján Francisci – stand proud. Also in the square and just metres from the statues, is the Museum of Ľudovít Štúr, which houses the only remaining photograph of the man himself. The museum is modest but offers detailed information on the life of Štúr and guided tours in English can be arranged. In the memorial next door you can find Štúr’s deathbed as well as some more unconventional relics, such as a tuft of Štúr’s hair. Such quirkiness only adds to the appeal of the museum. Farský kostol sv. Štefana kráľa (Parish church of St Stephen the King)  Štúrova 58, Modra Å+421 (0)33 647-2546 aentrance hall U Mon-Tue, Sat 18:00 Wed 7:00 Thu 16:00, 18:00 Sun 7:30, 10:30 voluntary evanjelický chrám Boží apoštolov Petra a Pavla (evangelical church of the apostles Peter and Paul)  Dolná 3, Modra Å+421 (0)33 647-2733 aexterior views only U Sun 18:00 To the south and all located on one street are three churches. The church closest to the town square is the Roman Catholic Parish Church of St Stephen the King, built between 1873 and 1876 in a neo-Renaissance style. While this church has its own charm, it is the two churches standing side by side further down the street that are of particular interest. The Slovak church, which is the Evangelical Church of the Apostles Peter and Paul, is stylistically different from its German counterpart. The fading paint of the Slovak church, which has great detail on its front and sides, contrasts with its neighbour whose sharper edges and grey façade render it less ceremonious though equally striking. bratislava region 53 Traditional ceramics from Modra UpperGateRedBastion www.gob.sk

56 bratislava region 19 senec map B 5  28 km / 17.8 miles (38 min) NE of Bra- tislava  17,050  Námestie 1. mája 4, Senec Å+421 (0)2 4592- 8224 www.senec.sk 0.4 km / 0.2 mile NW of centre  1.9 km / 1.2 miles SE of centre  June: Senec Carnival; June: Senec Summer (opening the summer season) Slnečné jazérá (Sunny lakes)  Slnečné jazerá-sever, Slnečné jazerá-juh, Rybárska streets (1.5 km / 1 mile S of the centre) ww.slnecnejazera.eu  €2 ä WC It was events of the mid-19th century which had the greatest hand in distinguishing Senec from other towns in Bratislava Region. Its lakes, which were later connected into one called Slnečné Jazerá (Sunny Lakes) are near the town centre and have attracted visitors for 150 years. Over the decades, the lakes have attracted patrons seeking the tranquillity of its natural bathing facilities as well as families seeking aquapark adventures during school holidays. The intense gravel mining which occurred in Senec from 1845 came as a result of the construction of the railway from Bratislava to Galanta. The lakes of the town developed at this time, and enjoyed a people-free existence until 1919, from when the five lone-standing lakes began to be used as a natural bathing place. Covering an area of over 100 hectares and reaching 12 metres deep, the current lake is visited by approximately 900,000 tourists every year, and can cater to both swimmers as well as the water-shy. With bicycle lanes stretching to 6.1 kilometres around the lake, cyclists, roller-skaters and walkers can all enjoy the views of the town and lakes from the water’s edge. Hotels and restaurants have taken advantage of the lake’s attraction, imaginatively converting old ships and constructing quaint huts on the banks of the water to satisfy a variety of tourist inclinations. aquapark Senec  Slnečné jazerá-sever, Senec Å+421 (0)2 4564- 8021 www.aquathermal.sk a10:00-22:00 from €7 ä WC The town also boasts Aquapark Senec, a complex of swimming pools, water attractions, beach volleyball courts, a wellness centre and saunas, providing everything for the visitor seeking a spot to relax all the year round just a few steps from the Sunny Lakes. Synagóga (Synagogue)  Mierové námestie, Senec a exterior views only The town offers more than just water attractions. The synagogue, which stands derelict on Senec’s main road, is a historical landmark dating back to 1904 and its crumbling exterior and hollow window frames provides an interesting contrast to the better- renovated buildings beside it. The Whipping Post, which now looks like a harmless column opposite the synagogue, points to the town’s more sinister history, dating back to the 16th century. Mestské múzeum v Tureckom dome (city Museum in Turkish House)  Námestie 1. mája 4, Senec Å+421 (0)911 169-754 G www.msks-senec.sk a Tue 10:00- 12:00, 13:00-16:00 Wed-Fri 10:00-12:00, 13:00-18:00 Sat 9:00-13:00 (Jun-Sep only)€1 e WC The Renaissance Curie, orTurkish House, is hailed as the town’s most precious monument. The house dates back to 1560 and currently contains a museum. Amongst excavations from Senec and Svätý Jur, the museum’s permanent collection features numerous taxidermied animals, including the leg bone of a mammoth, with the rest of the legs found in Pezinok. 20 kráľová Pri senci map B 5 35 km / 22 miles (34 min) E of Bratisla- va  1,610 www.kralovaprisenci.sk  včelárska paseka (Beekeeping museum)  Včelárska paseka, Kráľová pri Senci Å +421 (0)33 779-8049 www.vcelarskapaseka.ska Apr-Oct: Mon-Fri 9:00-17:00 Sat-Sun 9:00-13:00 (booking recommended)voluntary å e é WC Tandemový zoskok (Tandem skydiving)  Letisko, Kráľová pri Senci Å +421 (0)2 6544- 0292 www.verticaljump.sk a Apr-Oct (booking necessary) from €160 vyhliadkové lety (Sightseeing flights)  Letisko, Kráľová pri Senci Å +421 (0)2 4590-1858 www.pilotclub.sk a booking necessary from €40 This small village located just five kilometres from Senec is unique for its connection to a typical Slovak tradition. Slovak beekeepers were the first in Europe to establish a beekeeping museum, in the years 1930-32. The museum was opened to the general public in 1975. It offers a unique exhibition of beehives from the 17th and the 18th centuries, including artistic wooden beehives. In the main building is an exhibition of beekeeping equipment. The village also offers adrenaline lovers an unforgettable experience at the airport in Kráľová pri Senci, where they can try tandem skydiving with professionals or see the country from a plane, while they can choose where they would like to fly. Slnečnéjazerá(CourtesyofTICSenec)Slnečnéjazerá(CourtesyofTICSenec) www.gob.sk

bratislava region 57 21 kostolná Pri dunaJi map B 5  36 km / 22 miles (28 min) NE of Bratislava  508 www.kostolnapd.sk  Oáza Sibírskeho tigra, farma (Oasis of the endangered Siberian Tiger, farm)  Kostolná pri Dunaji Å+421 (0)905 423-846 www.tigre.sk  Jul-Aug 12:00-16:45  Sat-Sun 12:00-16:45 voluntary To get to the main attraction in Kostolná pri Dunaji, visitors have to pass through the village and then take a right turn onto a dirt track. They will be rewarded by a visit to a farm where around 30 tigers and three lions now find their home. This oasis of the endangered Siberian tiger is run by about eight volunteers and financed by voluntary contributions. Much of the money goes to the approximately 200kg of meat consumed by the beasts each day. It is better to come in the winter when the tigers tend to be more active. Although the animals are dangerous, there is no need to be afraid and no injuries have been sustained in the park. 22 Bernolákovo map B 5  22 km / 13.5 miles (26 min) NE of Bratislava  5,385 www.bernolakovo.sk  Black River Golf Resort  Kaštieľ 5, Bernolákovo Å+421 (0)2 4599-4221 www.golf.sk a Mon 10:00–20:00 Tue-Sun 10:00–20:00 from €25 åe WC Billing itself as the toughest golf course in Europe, the Black River Resort lives up to its reputation. Recently teamed with the White Eurovalley Golf Park in Malacky under one owner, the Black River Resort opened in 2006. Located in Bernolákovo, the 18-hole, 6,483-metre course offers the experience of two different style courses for the price of one. The first six holes are in a park setting with lots of mature trees and rather abbreviated holes – three par- 3s in a row coupled with two short par 4s. Play is in what served as the garden of an 18th century castle. Starting with the par-4,323 metres 7th hole, the course ventures into the agricultural area on the west side of the manor house and continues with a long, wildly difficult, and strikingly beautiful back 12. Even the best golfers are seriously challenged by the blind-spot and hazard-riddled fairways, the treacherous approaches to the generally large and unpredictable roiling greens, and the overall unforgiving nature of the course. The pièce de résistance is the 18th hole requiring a golfer to find a tiny safe landing zone off to the left side some 60 yards higher than the tee box. Wow! The course is slightly less demanding once some of its secrets are exposed so, if you can, play it a second time. The golf shop and lounge/bar with an attractive terrace is most welcome to golfers needing to drown their sorrows. Electric carts are recommended for this long and demanding course. Black River has a well-supported golf academy including two putting greens, two pitching greens, and a practice fairway. 23 Malý dunaJ (canoe)  page 249 24 HaMuliakovo map B 5  24 km / 15 miles (29 min) SE of Bratislava  1,438  www.obechamuliakovo.sk Kostol Svätého kríža (church of the Holy cross)  Dunajská 130, Hamuliakovo Å+421 (0)2 4598-8128 a booking necessery or for services U Sun: 9:30 (H), 11:00 Across the river from Čunovo (about a kilometre as the crow flies, but requiring a detour via Bratislava unless you have a boat) is Hamuliakovo. This prosperous village is the site of one of the earliest churches in the area, dating from the second half of the 13th century. The church is distinctive both from the outside and inside. The exterior is notable for its massive walls – necessary to support the building since it has no buttresses – and its leaning tower. Nothing very dramatic (the locals say it has stabilised, and since it has survived for three quarters of a millennium you would have to be pretty unlucky for it to fall on you), just a slight, but noticeable, list which is the result of the church having settled unevenly on a site where sand and gravel beds meet. Inside are a distinctive set of mediaeval frescoes. These were discovered at the end of the 19th century under seven centimetres of plaster. They depict 12 consecration crosses, and Christ in a mandorla, on the ceiling of the apse, surrounded by animals, representing the gospels. Around the windows of the polygonal apse are paintings of the 12 apostles. A gallery at the back of the nave would originally have been reserved for the sponsor of the church (presumably a local landowner), who would have received mass there. Photo:courtesyofBlackRiverGolfResort www.gob.sk Photo:CourtesyofBlackRiverGolfResort

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