Spectacular Slovakia - Eastern Slovakia 2

Includes pull-out map slovakiatravel guide SPECTACULAR SLOVAKIA content advisor

Bojnice Castle The annual coronation ceremony Hronsek Štiavnické vrchy Banská Bystrica How to use this guide 2 Seven day itinerary 4 Slovakia’sTOP 10 5 History 6 Changing Slovakia 12 Personalities 16 UNESCO 20 Sight by sight Bratislava 26 Bratislava Region 45 Western Slovakia 60 Central Slovakia 96 Northern Slovakia 118 Eastern Slovakia 166 Feature section Castles 200 Slovak art 204 Folklore 209 Gothic architecture 212 Religion 214 Wooden churches 216 Jewish heritage 220 Spas 223 Wine 228 Beer & Spirits 232 Food 234 Agritourism 238 Animal watching 240 Horses 242 Cycling 245 Rafting 249 Hiking 252 Caves 256 Skiing 259 Aqua 262 Best deals 265 Extreme - heights 268 Speed, army 270 Out of the city 272 Luxury 274 Golf 276 Genealogy 280 War 282 Mines, technical monuments 285 Industrial tours 288 Economy 290 Basics for tourists Language (inside front cover) Souvenirs 294 Events 294 Travellers’ needs 300 Restaurants 302 Index (inside back cover) Pull-out map (inside back cover) CONTENTS

Live your own story of Slovakia Top Slovak sights 32 travel feature stories Pull-out map of Slovakia Suggested seven day itinerary Information and contact details for more than 450 tourist spots Drawings of 28 historical monuments 3D aerial drawings of 7 major city centres 17 maps of city centres and major mountains More than 1,000 photos Calendar of events Selection of top hotels and restaurants ISBN 978-80-971719-0-2 The Slovak Spectator Slovak news you can trust since 1995 sPecTAcULAR sLOVAKiA

Eastern Slovakia Eastern Slovakia, with its hilly terrain in the north and lowlands to the south, borders on three countries: Poland, Ukraine and Hungary. The region is perhaps the richest in man-made lakes, with the Zemplínska šírava summer resort near Michalovce, the Veľká Domaša reservoir betweenVranov and Svidník, and the Starina reservoir in the beautiful Bukovské vrchy (Bukovské hills) north of Stakčín. The Ulič valley is the north-easternmost corner of Slovakia and the gateway to one of Slovakia’s best natural attractions: the Poloniny National Park which contains a UNESCOWorld Heritage site, the so-called primaeval beech forests that Slovakia shares with Ukraine. The sunny hills, overlooking the confluence of Bodrog andTisa rivers in the south are an ideal setting for vineyards,Tokaj, which hails from the Lower Zemplín region in the southeastern corner of Slovakia, is the most famous wine from this area. SlovakTokaj, spreading over 907 hectares of seven small villages, is the home to four big winemaking companies and a number of smaller producers. Additional wineries can be found in the southern part of the region. The bulk of Slovakia’s wooden churches are in the northeast of the country. Those located in Bodružal, Hervartov, Ladomirová and Ruská Bystrá have been listed as the UNESCOWorld Heritage sites. Hervatov is the oldest Roman Catholic wooden church in Slovakia. Eastern Slovakia also boasts a number of caves (Domica and the Ochtinská Aragonite caves) inscribed on the UNESCOWorld Natural Heritage List including. For the more adventurous the Krásnohorská Cave offers some real speleological experiences. The capital of eastern Slovakia is Košice, the country’s second largest city, which boasts arguably the finest man-made Gothic construction in the whole country, St Elizabeth’s Cathedral. In 2013, Košice, which also is the home of one of the largest employers in the country, steelmaking giant U.S. Steel, served as the European Capital of Culture. Another notable city is Bardejov, once one of the richest towns in the Hungarian Kingdom, and now listed as a world heritage site by UNESCO. 1 Košice W (city, culture, zoo, railway) pg 168-175, 207, 208, 212, 261, 265-269, 271, 276-277, 206, 216, 239, 244, 247, 251, 275, 280-281 2 Ochtinská aragonitová jaskyňa (cave - UNESCO site) pg 176, 256 3 Brdárka (agritourism) pg 272 4 Slavošovce (tunnel) pg 286-287 5 Štítnik (gothic church) pg 213 6 Rožňava (city) pg 176-177 7 Betliar W (manor house) pg 177 8 Krásna Hôrka (castle) pg 178-179 9 Slovenský kras / Slovak Karst (hiking, caves) pg 180-181, 253 10 Domica W (cave - UNESCO site) pg 180 11 Gombasecká jaskyňa (cave - UNESCO site) pg 180-181 12 Krásnohorská jaskyňa W (cave - UNESCO site) pg 181, 257-258 13 Zádiel (hiking) pg 252-255 14 Štós (spa) pg 225 15 Jasov (monastery, cave - UNESCO site) pg 181-182 15 Jasovská jaskyňa (cave) pg 182 16 Nováčany (bio farm) pg 238 17 Družstevná pri Hornáde (agritourism) pg 272 18 Tokaj W (wine) pg 182-183, 230, 231 19 Trebišov (city) pg 183, 231 20 Michalovce (city) pg 184, 239 21 Vinné (ruins, wine) pg 185, 244, 273 22 Zemplínska šírava (recreation area) pg 185, 263 23 Sobrance (guitar museum) pg 187 24 Tibava (wine) pg 231  page 177 page 180  page 176 S l o v e n s k é r u d o h o r i e 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 39 38 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 166 introduction to eastern slovakia Photo:MichalRengevič Photo:MichalRengevič

 page 189  pages 182-183  page 185  pages 191-194 25 Orechová (wine) pg 231 26 Inovce (wooden church) pg 187 27 Ruská Bystrá W (wooden church - UNESCO site) pg 187, 21 28 Morské oko (lake) pg 187 29 Sninský kameň (hiking) pg 253 30 Poloniny (hiking, primaeval forests - UNESCO site) pg 188 31 Jasenov (castle - ruins) pg 188, 273 32 Humenné (city) pg 188 33 Medzilaborce (gallery) pg 189 34 Svidník (open-air museum, WWII) pg 189, 283 35 Ladomirová W (wooden church - UNESCO site) pg 189, 216-218 36 Bodružal (wooden church - UNESCO site) pg 189-190, 247 37 Vyšný Komárnik (watchtower, WWII) pg 190 38 Bardejov W (city - UNESCO site) pg 191-194, 239 39 Bardejovské Kúpele (spa) pg 190, 224 40 Zborov (castle - ruins) pg 194, 244, 273 41 Frička (wooden church) pg 216-218 42 Krivé (wooden church) pg 216-218 43 Hervartov W (wooden church - UNESCO site) pg 194 44 Čergov (hiking) pg 253 45 Zlá diera (cave) pg 257 46 Šarišský hrad (castle - ruins) pg 273 47 Prešov W (city) pg 195-167, 263, 265, 269, 280, 284 48 Dubník (mine) pg 285-286  pages 168-175  page 231 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 2829 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 48 introduction to eastern slovakia 167

188 eastern slovakia 29 sninsKý Kameň (hiking)  page 254 30 Poloniny map I 2, J 2  141 km/ 87 miles (142 min) NE of Košice  Nová Sedlica i Ul. Mieru 193, Stakčín Å+421 (0)57 768-5615; Area: 298 km² www.sopsr.sk/nppoloniny Highest point: Kremenec (1,221 m / 4,005 ft) The Poloniny National Park lies in the far eastern corner of Slovakia. It is the only reservation in the world stretching to the land of three countries – Slovakia, Poland and Ukraine. The borders meet on the highest peak of the Poloniny mountains – Kremenec (1,221 m). The Poloniny National Park is known as a biosphere reserve. While its major ecosystem type is temperate broad-leaf forest and woodlands, in Slovakia beech and fir-beech forests dominate. Oak-hornbeam, mountain sycamore maple and alluvial grey alder associations cover a small area. Mountain meadows above the upper forest limit, so-called poloniny, gave the area its name. It contains a large primeval forest complex. The biggest and best-known primeval forest, which is located in Stužica National Natural Reserve, was inscribed to UNESCO’s World Heritage List together with Rožok and Havešová national natural reserves in 2007 under the Primeval Beech Forest of the Carpathians. The park is the home of Slovakia’s easternmost village, Nová Sedlica, and the largest drinking water reservoir in Slovakia, the man-made Starina. Poloniny has the widest selection of wooden architecture among the Slovak national parks. Wooden churches in Ruský Potok, Uličské Krivé,Topoľa and Jalová are the most precious wooden buildings in the area. The park provides places for walking, hiking, skiing, camping, cycling and mountain-biking. Oreničova skala, Hlboký Potok, Runina or Zboj are among the most visited places in the national park. Educational trails offer information about the natural habitat, history or traditions of the villages from the area. 31 jasenov map J 3  79 km / 49 miles (82 min) NE of Košice  1,174 www.jasenov.sk  Jasenovský hrad (Jasenov Castle - ruins)  on top of a hill in the woods at the east end of the village of Jasenov  non-stop The Jasenov Castle ruins stand above the village of the same name only 5 kilometres from Humenné. They date back to the 13th and 14th centuries. Given its proximity to Brekov Castle and not very strategic position in the woods far from the main road, it is believed that Jasenov Castle served simply as an aristocratic residence. The castle, with a triangular ground plan belonged to the Drugeth family until it was besieged by György Rákóczi’s army in 1644. The Andrássy family reconstructed part of the castle ruins at the beginning of the 20th century. However, the castle again fell into ruin in the wake of two world wars. Visitors can walk to the castle through the woods from the east end of the Jasenov village. The walk takes about 40 minutes. Those who make the trek are rewarded with a view over the whole region, a barbeque site and the spectacle of a medieval castle. 32 humenné map I 3  75 km / 47 miles (73 min) NE of Košice  35,053 i Staničná 1, Humenné Å+421 (0)57 788-1051 www.humenne.sk  u 0.7 km / 0.4 mile NW of centre Vihorlatské múzeum (Vihorlat Museum)  Námestie slobody 1, Humenné Å+421 (0)57 775-2240  www.muzeumhumenne.sk  May-Oct: Mon 9:00-15:00, Tue-Fri 9:00-16:00 Sat-Sun 14:00-17:00 (entrance every hour)  Off season: Mon-Fri 9:00-14:00 booking necessary €2.50 é(partly) WC Skanzen (Open-air Museum of Folk Architecture)  Námestie slobody 1, Humenné Å+421 (0)57 775-5671  www.muzeumhumenne.sk  May-Oct: Mon-Sun 9:00-18:00 (last entry 17:30) booking necessary €2 é(partly) WC Humenné is the centre of the Upper Zemplín (Horný Zemplín) region with its rectangular main square dotted by cafés and shops, finishing by the gates to the historical town park. Its history is closely connected with the noble Drugeth family, whose rule in the region dates back to 1320-1684. The green area separates the town’s two main tourist attractions: the Drugeth family’s four-wing Renaissance manor house and an open-air museum, both belonging to the city museum and both offering an authentic glimpse of Slovak history. The manor house offers an artistic-historical exhibition demonstrating how housing of the aristocracy from the Renaissance to the 20th century looked. The natural history exhibition is focused on the region’s natural conditions. The open-air museum boasts a selection of rustic cottages scattered around a wooden Greek-Catholic church from Nová Sedlica, originally built in 1764 without using a single nail. The Roman Catholic Church of All Saints, dating back to the beginning of the 15th century, is one of a few examples of gothic architecture in the region. Outside the relative bustle of the city, there is much to explore in the countryside – not least a

eastern slovakia 189 selection of castle ruins easily spotted from the region’s roads including the Jasenov, Brekov and Vinné castles. The town is surrounded by woods and hills with a number of hiking trails. 33 medZilaBorce map I 2  118 km / 73 miles (109 min) NE of Košice  6,809 www.medzilaborce-urad.sk  u Múzeum moderného umenia Andy Warhola (Andy Warhol Museum of Modern Art)  Ulica Andyho Warhola 749/26, Medzilaborce Å+421 (0)57 748-0072   www.andywarhol.sk  Tue-Fri 10:00-17:00 Sat-Sun 12:00-17:00  Tue-Fri 10:00-16:00 Sat-Sun 12:00- 16:00 €3.5  WC Though Andy Warhol never actually visited Slovakia, Medzilaborce, a town near the village of Miková where his parents were born, boasts a museum that celebrates Warhol’s life and work. Warhol was a leading figure in the American pop art scene during the late 20th century. The Andy Warhol Museum of Modern Art opened in 1991 at the initiative of Warhol’s brother John Warhola, with support from artists and admirers from around what was the then Czechoslovakia. The museum’s holdings include the second largest collection of Warhol’s works, surpassed only by the Andy Warhol Museum near Pittsburgh. 34 svidníK map H 2  91 km / 56 miles (78 min) NE of Košice  11,721 www.svidnik.sk  Múzeum ukrajinskej kultúry (Open-air Museum of Ukrainian Culture)  over Svidník amphitheatre Å+421 (0)54 752- 2952   May-Oct: Mon-Fri 8:30-18:00 Sat-Sun 10:00-18:00; Nov-Apr: booking necessary   é WC Military Museum  page 283 The open-air exhibition presents examples of the major types of dwellings and farms, as well as technical and industrial buildings, plus a rare wooden church in the Ruthenian-Ukrainian folk style. The museum, which opened in 1982, offers a sense of how ordinary Ruthenians and Ukrainians lived during earlier times. Traditional farm structures are displayed, including barns, pigsties, cellars and other small buildings. The objects were gathered from many places to recreate folk architecture, housing and lifestyle. A water-mill, windmill, blacksmith shop, fire house, school and a pub offering traditional meals are all represented. Perhaps the most historically significant structure is “tserkva”, a Greek Catholic wooden church from 1766 which was moved to this location from the village of Nová Polianka. Visitors gather around Ruthenian-Ukrainian cottages, and mingle with cows, horses, goats and sheep as they hearken back to simpler times. The area is near the open-air amphitheatre where people gather every year to participate in festivals of Ruthenian-Ukrainian culture. These events include the re-enactment of folk weddings, baptisms, children’s games, fairs, dance and crafts. For those wishing to experience an open-air museum of another kind, visit the Military Museum with its open-air complex that feature exhibits of World War II heavy machines. 35 ladomirová W map I 2  95 km / 60 miles (85 min) NE of Košice  992 www.ladomirova.sk  Chrám svätého Michala Archanjela (Church of St Michael the Archangel)  Ladomirová 195 Å+421 (0)54 752-5300  Mon-Sun 8:00-17:00 (booking necessary) U Mon-Fri 17:00 Sat 8:00 Sun 9:00 €1.7  The Greek-Catholic wooden church of St Michael the Archangel is among the most accomplished examples of an Eastern Christian Rite wooden church in Slovakia. The baroque church was built, along with a wooden belfry, in 1742. The church consists of three parts, identifiable from the outside by separate pyramidal towers with onion-shaped domes topped by metal crosses. The church’s entrance is in the first part, the so-called babinec, the area originally assigned to female parishioners, followed by a nave that is dominated by a splendid series of 18th -century icons, and then finally the sanctuary. The church in Ladomirová was included in the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2008 along with seven other wooden churches in Slovakia. 36 Bodružal map E 2  105 km / 65 miles (94 min) NE of Košice  59 www.drevenechramy.sk  Chrám svätého Mikuláša (church of St nicholas)  Bodružal 32 Bodružal Å+421 (0)911 811-210 booking necessary U Sun 11:00 (once a month)voluntary The church of St Nicholas was built in 1658 and is one of the oldest and best preserved wooden churches of the Eastern Christian Rite in Slovakia. The church, along with the nearby bell tower, is encircled by a wooden fence and covered with a shingle roof, all of which creates a distinctive unit that dominates the village. The church consists of three parts, the babinec, the area once assigned to women, the nave and the sanctuary, all topped with poppy-shaped towers topped with crosses. The decorated walls have been fashioned from logs and are well-preserved, as are paintings from the second half of the 18th Photo:Maník Bus stop in Medzilaborce Svidník,theMilitaryMuseum

century that depict the Calvary and the Last Judgement. The interior of the church is mainly baroque. The iconostasis, a screen of icons that separates the nave from the sanctuary in Eastern churches, is from the end of the 18th century. The icon depicting Jesus Christ in chains is from around 1700 and is a rarity. Along with seven other wooden churches in Slovakia, the church in Bodružal was included on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2008. 37 vyšný KomárniK map I 2  107 km / 67 miles (92 min) NE of Košice  75 www.vysnykomarnik.ou.sk  Vyhliadková veža (Watchtower)  2.7 km / 1.7 miles NE of centre of Vyšný Komárnik Å+421(0)54 759-3304  May-Oct 15: Tue-Sun 9:00-16:30 €1 é WC The border between Poland and Slovakia near the small village of Vyšný Komárnik was the site of one of the biggest battles of World War II. It pitted the armies of Nazi Germany and the Soviet Union and was fought in September and October 1944. The original intent was for the fighters of the Slovak National Uprising to battle their way through Nazi lines and join up with the Red Army. However, once the uprising was suppressed, the confrontation lost its tactical relevance and the operation was called off. Today a memorial, built in 1949, and a military cemetery where 565 soldiers are buried commemorates the Battle of the Dukla Pass. In 1964, a memorial bronze statue by Ján Kulich was added. In 1974, a watchtower was erected on the site where General Ludvík Svoboda, the commander of the First Czechoslovak Army Corps, directed his forces. It offers visitors a panoramic view of the battlefield. An audio-visual presentation of the battle is also available in the entrance hall. 39 BardejovsKé KúPele (spa) map H 2  83 km / 52 miles (74 min) N of Košice Bardejovské Kúpele, rázcestie   Bardejov- ské Kúpele 1992 Å+421(0)54 477-4346 www.kupele-bj.sk Skanzen (Open-Air Museum of Folk Architecture)  Bardejovské Kúpele Å+421 (0)54 472-2072  www.muzeumbardejov.sk  Mon-Sun 9:30-12:00, 12:30-16:30  Mon-Sun 9:30-12:00, 12:30-15:00 €2  éWC Bardejovské kúpele or Bardejov Spa, situated in an area rich in mineral waters, is located four miles from Bardejov. The spa is surrounded by acres of rich natural beauty with many walking trails. The spa is first mentioned in written texts in 1247, though regular treatments did not begin until the 16th century. The local waters are only moderately mineralised but they are reputed to have excellent healing effects. Patients are treated for circulatory and digestive problems as well as more serious illnesses. During their stay visitors can visit the open-air museum of folk architecture, which is the oldest facility of its kind in Slovakia. It was opened to the public in 1965. On 1.5 hectare grounds there are 24 buildings from the regions of Upper Šariš and northern Zemplín. They were constructed during the 19th and 20th centuries and belong to the wooden construction of the Carpathian style. The buildings are furnished and equipped with tools from the period when they were built. Visitors can also visit there the Greek-Catholic wooden church from Mikulášová, built in 1730 and moved to Bardejov Spa in 1931. This area is currently managed by the Šariš Museum. 190 eastern slovakiaThewachtoweroffersvisitorsaviewofthebattlefield(Photo:JanaVašašová) Klara: a spring in Bardejov WoodenchurchinBodružal

eastern slovakia - bardejov 191 38 Bardejov W map H 2  77 km / 48 miles (66 min) N of Košice  33,696 i Radničné námestie 21, Bardejov Å+421 (0)54 474-4003 www.bardejov.sk  u 1.2 km / 0.8 mile (14 min) NE of centre ¤ June: Bardejov Town Days; August: Traditional Fair in Bardejov Bardejov, now a thriving town, was once nothing more than a quiet, unobtrusive stop on the road between the Black and Baltic Seas, mainly travelled by merchants doing business and plying their wares. Eventually, this little-known village evolved into a bustling city. The oldest preserved written documents referring to the city date to the year 1241 when they were mentioned in religious documents called the Ipatijev chronicles. Many remarkable sites including the Basilica of St Aegidius (St Giles), the late gothic town hall, the compact Jewish quarter and the town’s fortifications have survived to remind us of the rich history of Bardejov. It remains a well- preserved example of a fortified mediaeval town and was included in the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2000. As trade expanded, the 15th century became a golden age for Bardejov. However in the ensuing years with the uprising of the estates as well as plague epidemics in the 17th and 18th centuries the city was paralysed economically and demographically. The decimated citizenship later rebounded and was gradually strengthened by an influx of the rural population as well as by Jewish merchants, who constructed a Jewish quarter complete with a synagogue and ritual baths by 1773. Eventually the Jews made up as much as one-third of the population of the growing city. Industrialisation arrived in Bardejov, but because it lacked a connection with the Košice- Bohumín railway, economic development stagnated. A large fire at the beginning of the 20th century as well as the devastation during two world wars further crippled the town’s expansion. It was not until 1950 that there was a significant impulse to rescue and reconstruct the town’s medieval centre. Today, Bardejov stands as one of the best preserved mediaeval towns in Europe. Bardejov still hearkens back to its long-ago days as a trade centre when it holds its annual fair known as “jarmok”, during the last week in August. The square fills up with buyers and sellers, hawking food and goods as well as all sorts of crafts like jewellery, toys, carpets, pottery and glass. 1 Bazilika sv. egídia (Basilica of St Aegidius)  Radničné námestie 3, Bardejov Å+421 (0)54 472-2595 www.bardejov.rimkat.sk  Mon-Fri 9:30-16:30, Sat 10:00-16:00, Sun11:30- 16:00 U Mon-Wed 6:30, Thu-Sat 18:30, Sun 8:00, 10:00, 18:30 €1.50 é the late-gothic Basilica of St Aegidius boasts 11 gothic wing altars dating from 1460-1520 the 76-metre high tower offers views of what is left of what is left of the fortifications Above the entrance is the sculpture of St Aegidius MainsquareinBardejov

192 eastern slovakia - bardejov Along with the OldTown Hall, the Basilica of St Aegidius is a familiar site in Bardejov. The basilica, which occupies the northern section of Radničné Námestie, is a gothic three- nave structure with a polygonal sanctuary, a sacristy, two chapels and a tower. The current structure has gone through several phases of reconstruction. The oldest parts of the church date to the 14th century. The first written references are from 1247, which mentions only a monastery-church in the area that was replaced by the basilica at a later date. From 1458 we learn that a stone-carver named Mikuláš from Bardejov finished 10 years of work on the sanctuary and royal oratory over the sacristy.Today’s basilica contains 11 late-gothic wing altars of which the Altar of the Nativity of the Lord, completed in 1490 after 10 years of work, is the most artistically esteemed. The altar was completed under the patronage of the weavers’ guild, the wealthiest guild in the town at the time. There are two bells over the front portion of the basilica. The smaller one, of St John, was cast in 1486; weighs 2,200 kilos and was used until 1990. The bigger one, of St Urban, weighing 4,000 kilos, was cast in 1584 and after it cracked, it was re-cast in 1655. 2 Stará radnica (Old town Hall)  Radničné námestie 13, Bardejov Å+421 (0)54 474-6038  www.muzeumbardejov.sk  Tue-Sun 8:30-12:00, 12:30-16:30 Tue-Sun 8:30-16:00, 12:30-16:00 €1.50  é WC The rectangular Radničné námestie is the core of the historical city centre. It is flanked by rows of gothic burgher houses, many of which were modified during the Renaissance and later. The Town Hall in its centre was built between 1505 and 1511 and merges the late gothic style with elements of transalpine Renaissance. This is the first presence of the Renaissance in Slovakia. The Town Hall was once the centre of the city’s administration as well as its economic, social and cultural life. The ground floor served as the business centre while the upper floor was used for ceremonial purposes as well as the work of the city council, archives and treasury. At the beginning of the 20th century, the hall was reconstructed and now displays exhibits on history and development as the Šariš Museum. Burgherhouses Exhibition of Iconography Monastery Bastion Old Town HallBikur Cholim Synagogue Former Franciscan Church and monastery School Bastion 2 3 4a i

eastern slovakia - bardejov 193 3 expozícia ikony (exhibition of iconography)  Radničné námestie 27, Bardejov Å+421 (0)54 472-2009  www.muzeumbardejov.sk  Tue-Sun 8:30-12:00, 12:30-16:30  Tue-Sun 8:00-12:00, 12:30-16:00€2  WC Bardejov’s other attractions include the Exhibition of Iconography in the Šariš Museum, whose walls are adorned with a mixture of original and replica multicoloured icons, usually from the numerous Greek- Catholic wooden churches in the Carpatho-Ruthenian region. Models of these remarkable structures can also be found on the first floor of the gallery. 4 Jewish sites Jewish Suburbia  crossroad Mlynská and Dlhý rad ( 0.7 km / 0.4 mile NW of city centre)  exterior views only www.bardejov.org 4a Bikur Cholim Synagogue  Kláštorskáulica10,Bardejov Å+421 (0)908040-421 www.slovak-jewish-heritage.org Mon-Sunbookingnecessary voluntary Just outside the town centre is a suburb that contains a number of Jewish institutional sites built in the 18th and 19th centuries following the Talmudic rules. It includes the Old Synagogue, a beit midrash (study house), a mikvah (ritual bath) and is the only site in Slovakia that preserves the older history of the religious and social life of the Jewish community. The Old Synagogue site is the largest and oldest. It was built between 1829 and 1836 (before the Jewish emancipation) and along with the synagogue in Stupava is one of only two surviving nine-bay synagogues in Slovakia. Survivors of the deportations of Jews from Bardejov and their descendants have launched the Bardejov Jewish Preservation Committee to restore the Jewish quarter, which had fallen into poor condition. In 2014, the comittee opened the Bardejov Holocaust Memorial. Chevra Bikur Cholim is a newer synagogue. It was built in 1929 and is located in the historical city centre. 5 Fortification  Na hradbách, Baštová and M. V. Miškovského streets  Non-stop It was Luis I who ordered the construction of the fortifications in 1352 after the town obtained permission to hold an eight-day market on St Aegidius’ Day. The walls and bastions of that period are still preserved including the Powder Bastion where gunpowder and weapons were stored; the Red or Royal Bastion, which drew its name from the bricks with which JewishSuburbia Fortification Red Bastion Gross Bastion Fortification Basilica of St Aegidius Evangelical Church 1 5 5

194 eastern slovakia it was constructed; and the North Bastion where archives were stored. Unfortunately, many of the original 23 bastions were destroyed during the expansion of the city in the 19th and 20th centuries. However, the surviving fortifications of Bardejov remain one of the best preserved town fortification complexes in Slovakia. 40 ZBorov map H 2  87 km / 54 miles (76 min) N of Košice  3,184 Zborovský hrad (Zborov Castle - ruins)  2.4 km / 1.5 miles S of Zborov www.hrad.zborov.sk  non-stop free The impressive ruins of Zborov- Makovica Castle, which look out over the village of Zborov, offer a 360-degree view of the villages and hills which surround it. They probably date back to the 13th century, but the castle’s heyday came during the years when the area was threatened byTartar invasions. Stone castles provided the best defence systems against raiders from the east. The castle was built in the gothic style, then refurbished during the Renaissance. By the 17th century, castles had ceased to function as residences. When the castle’s owners, the Rákóczi family, were involved in an anti- Habsburg rebellion, the castle was overrun by the emperor’s army and subsequently demolished in 1684. The decay of the grounds continued and it was further damaged during World War I. However, in 1926 the castle hill was declared a protected area and now ranks as one of the oldest protected areas in Slovakia. The protection focuses largely on a grove of pedunculate oaks. The trees, which are hundreds of years old, line the access road to the castle. The castle itself features fortifications as well as the ruins of the bastions, the palace and the main tower.Today, volunteers are working to repair the castle. A path from Bardejovské kúpele to the Zborov castle hill offers an undemanding four-hour hike. There is also access from Dlhé Lúky village near Bardejov. 41 FričKa (wooden church)  page 216 42 Krivé (wooden church)  page 216 43 hervartov W map H 2  76 km / 47.1 miles (66 min) N of Košice  497 www.hervartov.sk  Kostol sv. Františka z Assisi (Church of St Francis of Assisi)  Hervartov 35 Å+421 (0)918 678-260, +421 (0)54 472-9075  Mon-Sun (booking necessary) €2  é WC The Roman Catholic wooden church of Saint Francis of Assisi in the village of Hervartov lies 10 km (6 miles) from Bardejov and is markedly different from Eastern Christian Rite churches in the area. The church is gothic in style and though the exact date it was built is unknown, evidence suggests the church already existed during the second half of the 15th century. It is among the oldest and best preserved wooden churches in Slovakia. The church consists of a sanctuary, a nave and a small sacristy. The belfry was added around the turn of the 17th century. Stencilled paintings of gothic ornaments decorate its walls as well as paintings depicting Adam and Eve, St George and an allegory of virtues. The main altar depicting the Virgin Mary, St Catherine of Alexandria and St Barbara is from the second half of the 15th century. Another gothic work depicts the stigmatisation of St Francis of Assisi on a wooden panel. The interior of the church has undergone several changes, all in the baroque style, especially during the Reformation when the church was in the hands of Lutherans. The Lutherans abandoned the church after 1711. A wooden baptistery from the 17th century and a panel painting of the Last Supper are exceptional examples of reformation art. Along with the seven other wooden churches in Slovakia, the church in Hervartov was included on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2008. 44 čergov (hiking)  page 253 45 Zlá diera (cave)  page 257 46 šariš castle (ruins) page 273 RedBastioninBardejov Wooden church in Hervartov

eastern slovakia - Prešov 195 1 Hlavná ulica (Main Street) city map page 197 Hlavná,Prešov In the heart of Prešov’s Main Street is a traffic-free zone that allows pedestrians to leisurely enjoy the sights. This historical core has been preserved to give a sense of how the city looked during its heyday, which ran from the second half of the 15th century to the beginning of the 17th century. Many of the city’s major historical sights can be found in this area including a sequence of historical buildings, columns, fountains and churches neatly ordered from north to south. The Main Street with its abundance of shops is popular with locals and visitors alike. Many of the historic buildings on the streets have retained their functions, like the town hall. Others have been converted into galleries or other cultural facilities. 2 Dóm sv. Mikuláša (Cathedral of St nicholas) citymappage197Hlavná81,Prešov Å+421(0)51 773-3500www.presov.rimkat.skMon-Sun5:30- 19:00Sat14:00-19:00(cathedral)Mon-Sunbooking necessary(tower)UMon-Fri5:45,6:15,7:00,12:00, 18:00Sat5:45,6:15,7:00,18:00Sun5:45,6:30, 7:45,10:00,11:30,18:00voluntary(cathedral),€1 (tower)éWC(forservicesonly) The Cathedral of St Nicholas is the only preserved gothic religious site in Prešov and it is thought that it was built on the same site as a German village church during the 13th century. Construction began around 1345, and the decades that followed saw the church change its structure in tandem with the passing architectural styles. Its lofty gothic spire is visible from all the surrounding streets. There is much to see inside the cathedral as well, especially the large baroque altarpiece. Because of numerous fires between the 17th and 19th centuries, as well as looting which resulted from religious battles during the 18th century, little of the cathedral’s original gothic and Renaissance furnishings remain. One group that has survived, however, are the sculptures of Virgin Mary, St Adalbert and St Aegidius, which are now part of the main altar. There are also panel paintings from the original altar that depict the cycles of Nicholas, Virgin Mary and the Passion. Some frescoes are still visible as well as a 17th century baroque organ, whose illustrious combination of rich mahogany and ornate gild are worthy of attention. 3 evanjelický Chrám sv. trojice (evangelical Church of the Holy trinity) city map page 197  Hlávná 137, Prešov Å+421 (0)51 772-5925 www.patmos.sk  entrance hall Thu 18:00, Sun 9:00, 18:00 ( 17:00) éWC Just behind the Cathedral of St Nicholas is the late Renaissance Evangelical Church of the Holy Trinity, which is separated from its corresponding Evangelical College by a cobbled walkway. While its smaller size pales by comparison with its neighbouring giant, the church boasts a rich history of its own. The present church stands on the site of a smaller, mediaeval church dating back to the 15th century, and together with the Evangelical College, chronicles a history of the Reformation and counter-Reformation. The church served the city’s Hungarian population from the 15th century, before embarking on long stretches of oscillation between the Evangelical and Catholic religious traditions. The original altar of the church was replaced by the Jesuits in 1673. However in 1865, over 100 years 47 Prešov W map H 3  37 km / 22 miles (32 min) N of Košice  91,782 i Hlavná 67, Prešov Å+421 (0)51 310-0125 www.presov.sk  u 2 km / 1.2 mile SE of centre ¤ June: Prešov City Days; September/October: Craft Days; November: Jazz Prešov; December: Christmas market Prešov, Slovakia’s third largest city and the centre of the Šariš region, was founded in the 13th century and like many towns of that period, was overrun a number of times by foreign invasions. The Renaissance was a decisive period for Prešov. Its location on an important trade route meant a booming economy but also much blood and destruction, including the Prešov Slaughter of 1687. The city’s history is sprinkled with stories of battles and bloodletting. Even so, Prešov evolved as a progressive city with high levels of culture and education and by the turn of the 19th century had a civically active Jewish population. Now, the city offers many interesting historical sites. Moreover, the Šariš Brewery, which is Slovakia’s largest, can be found in nearby Veľký Šariš and forms a focal point for the city’s thriving social scene, with many bars and cafés. Photo:MartinaSmolkováCathedralofStNicholas

196 eastern slovakia - Prešov after the church had passed to the Evangelicals, the altar was further modified, taking the shape of the classicist altar which dominates the front walls today. For those with a penchant for the macabre, a small room in the church houses a metal coffin, which contains the remains of four victims from Prešov Slaughter of 1687. 4 Krajské múzeum Prešov (regional Museum Prešov)  Hlavná 86, Prešov Å+421 (0)51 773-4708   www.muzeumpresov.sk  Tue-Fri 9:00-17:00 Sun 14:00-18:00 Sat 14:00-18:00 (Jul-Aug) €2 WC Many of the burgher houses which line the square are in the Renaissance style, some of them positively Venetian in their flamboyance. Perhaps the most striking is Rákóczi Palace, across the road from the Protestant (or Evangelical, in Slovak parlance) church. Covered in a type of sgraffito decoration peculiar to eastern Slovakia, it now houses the Regional Museum. 5 radnica, Múzeum vín (town Hall, Wine Museum)  Hlavná and Floriánova streets, Prešov Å+421 (0)51 773-3108  www.muzeumvin.sk  Mon-Fri 8:00-18:00, Sat 8:00-12:00 €2  WC A former burgher’s home from the 15th century, which was also once owned by the artist Peter Moler, and then became the city’s wine-hall and cellar in the 16th century. The municipality occupied it after it underwent some late-baroque renovation work, adding another floor. In 1919, the foundation of the short-lived Slovenská republika rád (Soviet Slovak Republic) was declared from the town hall’s cramped balcony. But a distinct lack of interest in socialism at the time meant the new republic lasted barely three weeks. Wine is not grown on a commercial scale in Prešov Region, but the legacy of the wine business – mainly supplied from theTokaj region to the south – lives on in the Wine Museum, housed in cellars beneath this buidling. The real point of a wine museum is to taste wine, and visitors are encouraged to try them. The museum sports a collection of wines from around the world, as well as some historical exhibits from the city’s past. It includes the ever-popular torture chamber recalling General Caraffa who in 1687 unjustly sentenced 24 Hungarian men to be executed. An unflattering statue of Caraffa, with the hooded figure of death peering over his shoulder was unveiled in 1908 on the corner of the Lutheran college in the square, above a tablet bearing the names of the victims. 6 neptúnova fontána (neptune Fountain)  Hlavná street, Prešov  non-stop On the south side of the St Nicholas Cathedral is the Neptune Fountain, which with its maritime themes may seem somewhat incongruous. Diverging from the usual city square centrepieces which often heralded religious figures, the Neptune Fountain is surrounded by aquatic life. The fountain was financed by a Jewish merchant early in the 19th century. Marek Holländer was the first Jew who was allowed to own property within Prešov’s city walls and he created the monument as a gesture of thanks. 7 šarišská galéria Prešov (šariš Gallery Prešov)  Hlavná 51, Prešov Å+421 (0)51 772-5423  www.sgpresov.sk Tue-Wed, Fri 9:00-17:00 Thu 9:00-18:00 Sun 13:00-18:30€1.5 é(- ground floor only) WC The Šariš Gallery on the Main Street was founded in 1956. It holds 4,200 artworks from the 15th to the 20th century focusing specifically on north-eastern Slovakia. It also holds a noteworthy collection of icons from the 16th and the 18th centuries. Its upper halls are dedicated exclusively to statues of Christ and icons of the Madonna and Child. On the lower floors there is artwork from the 1960s to the present day, with some works showcasing the use of modern cultural references rendered to eerie effect. The gallery’s basement, with its gravel floors and low-hanging arches, exhibits art from local schools. 8 Kostol sv. Jána Krstiteľa (Church of St John the Baptist)  Hlavná3,Prešov Å+421(0)911912-787 www.presov.grkatpo.skMon-Fri5:30-17:30(Sat-Sun entrancehallonly) UMon-Fri5:45,7:00,16:30Sat 5:50,7:00,17:00,18:00Sun5:50,7:00,8:00,10:00, 11:45,17:00,18:00voluntary é WC The Greek Catholic Church of St John the Baptist on Prešov’s Main Street holds the only copy in Slovakia of the Shroud ofTurin, the legendary cloth in which Jesus’ body was supposedly wrapped after he was taken down from the cross. The cathedral received the relic in 2003. It is one of four facsimiles fashioned by church representatives inTurin. The four shrouds were Statue of Caraffa Photo:MartinaSmolková

eastern slovakia - Prešov 197 created with the aid of the most modern photographic techniques. Other copies can be found inTurin, Jerusalem and Vilnius. The original shroud inTurin is exhibited only occasionally. It was no accident that the Prešov church was selected to house this relic. It was meant to accompany the exposed relics of two local bishops who were martyred under the communist regime. The shroud is exhibited on one of the church’s walls behind the glass and draws thousands of pilgrims to Prešov. 9 Židovské múseum (Jewish Museum)  Okružná 32, Prešov Å+421 (0)51 773-1638  www.synagoga-presov.sk  Tue-Wed 11:00-15:00 Thu-Fri 9:00-13:00, Sun 14:00-15:00 €2  WC The Prešov Orthodox Synagogue is located north of the city centre and it houses the oldest Jewish museum in the country, which opened in 1928. From its construction in 1898 until 1942, the synagogue was used solely for religious purposes. However, in that year it was commandeered by the fascist regime and began to function as a gathering site for the deportation of Jews. Up to that time, Jews had been treated relatively well in Prešov. At one time Jews who settled in Prešov after Emperor Joseph II issued the Edict of Tolerance in 1782, made up about one-sixth of the city’s population. The interior of the synagogue is spectacular, with its walls and ceilings elaborately painted in rundbogenstil (round-arch style) and, in combination with neo-classicist and Moorish styles, adorned with carvings and floral designs. The synagogue’s balcony, known as the women’s gallery, is now home to the museum. Its treasures are all from Prešov Region, and were only returned from Prague’s Jewish Museum in 1993, where they were transferred during World War II. From circumcision tools, Hannukah candlesticks and sculptedTorah Yads (Torah reading sticks), the museum displays numerous artefacts of Jewish traditions. Audio guides are available on request. Kalvária, Kostol Svätého kríža (Calvary, Church of the Holy Cross)  hill on the western edge of the city Mestská hala (No. 22) 0.7 km / 0.4 mile SE of the church Å+421 (0)51 773-3500 www.presov.rimkat.sk  booking necessary U Sun 16:00 voluntary Outside the city and up a hill, the Prešov Calvary site stands tall. Its complex of baroque buildings dates from the 8th century. The construction of the complex evolved gradually between 1721 and 1893, and is closely linked to the Jesuit presence in the city and the resurgence of the Catholic Church during that period. The site’s most impressive structure is the church at the top of the hill, which looks out over the city. The views are spectacular. There are 14 chapels in the complex, each boasting its own unique style. Behind the grates in front of the church, a number of murals depicting Jesus Christ and the Virgin Mary can be seen, as well as the coats of arms of the families which sponsored each chapel’s construction. Jesuit priest Franz Perger, who initiated and designed the Calvary in Banská Štiavnica, was also involved in the completion of the Prešov Calvary. The two calvaries are considered to be the most beautiful baroque examples of their kind in Slovakia. Múzeum Solivar (Museum Solivar)  Zborovská 2/A, Prešov Å+421 (0)51 775-7427 Solivar (No. 1)   www.stm-ke.sk  Apr-Oct: Tue-Sat 9:00-16:00  Nov-Mar: Tue-Sat 9:00-14:30 €2.5 é(part- ly) WC 45-60 min Outside Prešov’s centre lies the municipality of Solivar, home to a museum, and a now defunct salt mine and mill which are of great historical and technical interest. The complex consists of three main buildings which show the processes of mining and salt-storage over the centuries. The use of brine in the production of salt is documented from 1230. Much later, in 1572, rock salt began to be extracted from the site. Eventually the mine became saturated with brine and the salty water in itself became the main source of salt. The great rotund gápeľ – a device by which horses once turned a wheel pulling out leather bags with brine from underground – is a striking sight and its great size and the complex’s countless network of thick wooden beams criss-crossing overhead are impressive to see. All of the functioning mechanisms and pulley systems are still intact. The most imposing building on the premises, the former storeroom, is still awaiting reconstruction after a fire destroyed all its wooden parts in 1986. 48 duBníK (mining)  page 285 Jarková Train station 17min Jarková Jarková UlicaBaštová Okružná Hlavná Tkáčska Weberova Hlavná Floriánova Hlavná Hlavná Konštantínova Metodova Konštantínova Slovenská Slovenská Špitálska Hlavná Tkáčska Metodova 9 2 1 5 7 8 6 4 3 Prešov city centre i Inside of the synagogue

198 bratislava Want to tell your friends about your experiences travelling around Slovakia? In that case, we have 8 places you really must visit. To get the most of your experience in our picturesque country, which offers interesting experiences throughout the year, then we recommend you visit at least three of them. You´ll experience Slovak nature, tranquillity and magical places which are eye openers for travellers from around the world. We guarantee it will be worth it. The best of Slovakia High Tatras and Liptov Virgin nature, kilometres of cycling and hiking routes, cable cars to the mountain peaks, relaxation in luxury hotels and aqua parks in Poprad and Liptovský Mikuláš are all on offer in this region. Download the regional electronic guides to your smartphone and you’ll quickly discover why these Slovak regions are among the most visited. The range of year-round activities guarantees you a perfect holiday. There is excellent skiing in winter in modern winter centres in Jasná, Štrbské Pleso or in Tatranská Lomnica. In late January and February 2015 come watch the future stars of winter sports battle for medals at the Winter Universiade in the High Tatras and in Osrblie. In summer, give yourself a workout by mountain hiking. Bratislava Visitors from all corners of the world discover the charm of the capital city. They explore the cosy and relatively small but pulsing centre where history overlaps with the latest trends. Historical palaces, modern shopping centres, the artistry of Slovak chefs, winemakers and brewers, friendly locals, international cultural and sporting events, exhibitions and business opportunities. There are many reasons to come here and fall in love with Bratislava like many others before you. Bratislava’s streets are alive with bustling nightlife and you don’t need to go far to have fun. Just follow the music or the crowd and a good time will find you. Food lovers have the beginning of June marked in their calendar for Gourmet Fest, and winemakers come to the city at the beginning of September for the wine harvest celebrations, or in November to celebrate young wine. From September to April, sports enthusiasts create an unbeatable atmosphere at Slovan Bratislava ice hockey club matches in the Kontinental Hockey League (KHL). A visit to Bratislava, the coronation city of 18 Hungarian and Austrian kings and queens, including Empress Maria Theresa, is also recommended by renowned members of the world media. According to CNN, it’s one of the six most fascinating European cities lying on a state border, TripAdvisor recommends visiting several monuments in the city and Čumil, one of the city’s mascots, is one of the 25 most creative statues in the world. Košice Last year, Košice was the European Capital of Culture, which brought significant cultural development. The dilapidated city pool was transformed into the Kunsthalle gallery of modern art and the former military barracks got a second wind as a Culture Park. The city has a rich programme throughout the year - from top theatre performances in the State Opera, April’s Days of Košice, May events such as the Night of Museums and Galleries and the Use the City festival of untraditional art, June’s gastronomic Gourmet Fest, July’s Mazal Tov! festival of Jewish culture, August’s party dedicated to Slovak-born Andy Warhol, to the untraditional October White Night, which prevents you from sleeping. On the next day the streets are filled with the third oldest marathon in the world – the oldest in Europe. You can reach Košice via a direct flight from Vienna, Prague or London and you’ll also be lured by St Elizabeth’s Cathedral, the easternmost Gothic cathedral in Europe. Apart from us, The Guardian, National Geographic, BBC, CNN, many travellers on TripAdvisor or Fodor´s, Smarter Traveller and Matador all recommend a visit to Košice. Košice is a must see.

bratislava 199 Banská Štiavnica If you lived in the 16th Century, you would have known that Klondike and El Dorado are situated in Central Slovakia. This small town surrounded by mountains was in its glory days the third largest town in the Kingdom of Hungary. The best technicians studied and lectured here in the first technical university in the world, and gunpowder was used for the first time ever in the local mines. Sophisticated systems of lakes and tunnels were used to pump underground water and extract ore to the surface. This was the ultimate in high- tech from old masters without the need for computers, electricity or satellites. Today in the town you can admire two castles, a Baroque plague column or the unique Baroque Calvary. You can also descend underground to see the tunnels and search for salamanders. They were the first to bring the treasures hidden in the bowels of the earth in Štiavnica into broad daylight. Caves of the Slovak Karst Apart from natural and cultural treasures on the earth’s surface, Slovakia has some gems hidden below. There are no devils or other monsters living beneath the surface in Slovakia, but you will find beauties listed by UNESCO. It’s difficult to find another country where there are so many caves open to the public, with well-maintained trails and spectacular dripstone decorations. In Slovakia you can explore caves with spectacular glaciations (Dobšinská Ice Cave), limestone structures (Domica, with boat ride on the Styx River, Gombasecká Cave), as well as with extremely precious aragonite crystal decoration (Ochtinská Aragonite Cave), found nowhere else in Europe. Just visit the southeast of Slovakia, take your pick, and enjoy. Slovenský raj (Slovak Paradise) This National Park in the untouched nature in Eastern Slovakia is deserving of its name. The thick forests will make you feel like you’re on a different planet, far away from the hustle and bustle of daily life – just you and virgin nature. There is adrenalin too! Tourist routes will lead you through step irons, ladders and mountain riverbeds. The area is also great for cyclists will also enjoy it. Restored and brand new cycle routes await them. There are several places to rent bicycles and you can hire a bicycle in one place and return it somewhere completely different. Come in spring when nature is in full bloom, or autumn when the trees are in full colour. Just come and enjoy a sense of paradise! Pieštany Health Spa Now that you have made it all the way to number 10, it is nice to completely relax. You can choose from more than 30 Slovak spas, but the most famous is located in Pieštany, just 80 kilometres from Bratislava. Its world-famous healing mud, water and monumental hotels in beautiful parks are just what you need for complete relaxation. Editors of The Lonely Planet know very well why they included it among the top 20 spas in Europe. According to CNN, it ranks among the top nine luxury destinations with an effective weight reduction programme. Wooden churches Slovakia is a country designed for touring. The best route is bound to include visits to the wooden churches listed by UNESCO. You’ll find several including Hervartov, Tvrdošín, Kežmarok, Leštiny, Hronsek, Bodružal, Ladomirová and Ruská Bystrá. Rather than trying to correctly pronounce the names of these picturesque churches, it is easier to set off on your trip and get to know their unique architecture. These Evangelical, Catholic and Orthodox churches are listed by UNESCO. Many are built without a single nail and their decor is breathtaking. You’ll also find them in Banská Bystrica (Hronsek) and Orava (Leštiny), but most of them are situated in the northeast of Slovakia. We recommend that you plan extra time for visiting these places. Sometimes it takes a while to find somebody to unlock them. Or come to a mass for the unforgettable spiritual experience of a lifetime. More information and inspiration on how to make the most of Slovakia see www.slovakia.travel SP013298/004

200 castles The rise and fall of Slovak castles These days Slovakia is recognised as the world leader in car production per capita. What is lesser known is that this country also has the highest number of registered castles per person. Theoretically, the country could be comprised of 180 small kingdoms of 30,000 people each with its own castle or chateau. Unfortunately, because of a lack of maintenance, there are just 120 castles with visible remains and even most of those are largely in ruins. For visitors, there are luckily still dozens of castles to tour replete with their majesty and cold beauty. As a mountainous country, Slovakia is naturally predisposed to castles that use the high ground and rocks as construction material. Starting in the Middle Ages and up to the 18th century, the aristocracy of the Kingdom of Hungary preferred to build their castles in Slovakia’s easy to defend territory, art historian Peter Kresánek says. Most of those constructions turned to ruins as their military importance decreased and landowners sought out more comfortable residences. For a long time, few had a passion for castles and what was not destroyed over the years became construction material for nearby homes. After the fall of the communist regime in 1989, more and more people have shown interest in these magnificent constructions, and volunteer groups have formed to preserve and renovate castles. InThebegInnIng The story of Slovakia’s castles begins in the 9th century when Slavs began building wooden fortresses in present-day Slovakia, with about a dozen stone castles replacing them in the 11th century – including in Bratislava, Nitra, andTrenčín. The best example of one of these constructions is one of the best-known Slovak castles – the Bratislava Castle. Its first mention dates to the 10th century, but the castle hill was inhabited also in the Celtic and the Great-Moravian era. Despite turbulent times, fires and lack of money for its maintenance Bratislava Castle has been preserved until today. It has been renovated and now stands proudly on a hill above the banks of the Danube. Indeed, Slovaks voted to make it one of the three symbols representing the country on their new euro coins, introduced in January 2009. Tartar raids in the 13th century brought about a period of consolidation in the Kingdom of Hungary’s defence strategy, and by the end of the century, around There are 138 small chateaus, 435 manor houses, and alto- gether 180 castles and chateaus in Slovakia. Terminology Castle(hrad)–Fortifiedstructure servingfordefencepurposes Chateau(zámok)–Representa- tivefortifiedstructuremoresuitable fornobles manorhouse(kaštieľ)–Resi- denceofnobilityusuallyplacedon aplainratherthanontopofthehill Curia(kúria)– Smallchateau wherelownobilityusedtolive CasTles, CiTy CasTles & forTresses 1 Bratislava Castle  page 40 14 Pezinok Castle  pages 51-52 18 Červený Kameň Castle  page 54 Bratislava Castle orava Castle is one of the most impressive castles in slovakia

castles 201 12 smolenice Castle  page 67 23 Trenčín Castle  page 72 29 Bojnice Castle  page 76 36 nitra City Castle  page 84 46 Komárno fortress  page 90 c2 ilava Castle Mierové námestie 1, Ilava exterior views only (the building serves as a prison) 1 Banská Bystrica Town Castle  page 98 2 Hronský Beňadik monastery page 100 5 Banská Štiavnica old Castle  page 102 5 Banská Štiavnica new Castle  page 103 11 Zvolen Castle  page 106 15 Vígľaš Castle  page 107 39 slovenská Ľupča Castle  page 114 45 Kremnica Town Castle  page 116 1 Červený Kláštor monastery  page 123 2 stará Ľubovňa Castle  page 124 8 Kežmarok Castle  page 128 49 oravský Podzámok orava Castle  page 152 69 Bytča Castle  page 158 70 Žilina Budatín Castle  page 160 8 Krásna Hôrka Castle  page 178 150 castles had been built or fortified to protect the area from further raids. Later, many castles became administrative centres or living quarters for Hungarian nobles. This period gave birth to the Orava Castle which is one of the most visited castles in Slovakia. It became part of cinematic history in 1922 when German director F. W. Murnau shot the silent vampire movie Nosferatu inside its walls. goIngbIg More new castles were built and fortified during the 15th -century Hussite wars, this time taking into account firearms. In this era,Trenčín, Devín, and Spiš Castles became three of the biggest in Europe. Of all Slovakia’s castles, the grand and gloomy Spiš Castle is probably the most celebrated. It is reputed to be the largest castle ruin in central Europe, and in its stony decay it seems to erupt out of the hill on which it is perched, as if the earth itself were trying to resurrect a lost gothic past. Perhaps that is why the castle was used in American movie Dragonheart as a castle by the sea, while in reality it is more than 600 kilometres from the nearest shoreline. One of the best preserved castles built in this era is the Kežmarok Castle, constructed in the mid 15th century.Today it is used as a museum that tells the history of both Kežmarok and the castle itself. oTToMAnInVADeRS Another round of castle building took place after the Ottomans conquered lower Hungary in the 16th century. By order of the ruler, castle walls like those at Vígľaš, Fiľakovo and Krásna Hôrka were significantly extended. Also the Komárno Fortress was rebuilt according to Italian war engineer designs, becoming the strongest fortified construction of the Kingdom of Hungary. In 1594 the fortress resisted a month-long siege by an Ottoman army of 100,000 soldiers and later became a symbol of European military architecture. But it is not only castles that were used in the fight against the Ottomans, even some monasteries were fortified and absorbed into the defence system. Hronský Beňadik is an example. The abbey was first established in 1075, and the local monks were instrumental for centuries in spreading Christianity before the whole complex was fortified to face the Ottoman raids. The monastery was declared a national cultural monument in 1945. spiš Castle is impressive from the air as well as from the ground slovak castles often offer re-enactment of history The coat of arm of Pálffy family

202 castles ruins wiTH exHiBiT 3 Devín Castle  page 44 20 Čachtice Castle  page 70 22 Beckov Castle  page 71 41 levice Castle  page 83 8 Bzovík Kláštorná pevnosť Bzovík (Bzovík fortress) www.muzeum.sk +421 (0)907 852-925  Jun-Sep: non-stop  booking necessary free 19 modrý Kameň Castle  page 109 23 fiľakovo Castle  page 110 14 spiš Castle  page 134 24 liptovský Hrádok Castle  page 142 39 likava Castle  page 149 67 strečno Castle  page 157 manor Houses wiTH exHiBiT 13 Dolná Krupá  page 67 34 oponice  page 80 38 Topoľčianky  page 81 c1 sobotište manor House www.muzeum.sk +421 (0)34 628-2102 Tue, Fri 12:30-18:00 Wed-Thu 10:00- 12:00, 12:00-16:00 €1 c3 Brodzany manor House www.snk.sk €1 +421 (0)907 812-770 Mon- Fri 9:00-15:30 Sat 10:00-14:00 c4 Jelenec manor House www.forgach.org  Hlavná street - Forgáčov dvor +421 (0)37 631-3311Wed, Sat-Sun 13:00-16:00 €1 c5 Beladice manor House www.tartuf.sk  Pustý Chotár 495 +421 (0)37 633-0235 exterior views only free During the Ottoman wars in the 16th and 17th centuries, Slovak castles played a considerable role in the defence of the whole region which had become a geopolitically important crossroad. Many travel books and publications written in those times describe Slovak castles, according to Kresánek. However, the stories were not only about heroic battles. For instance, one famous legend recounts the exploits of Elizabeth Báthory. Otherwise known as the Blood Countess, this Hungarian aristocrat became notorious in the early 17th century as a serial killer who tortured and killed scores of young women – possibly up to 650 victims in her residence – Čachtice Castle. Many myths and legends have surfaced surrounding Báthory’s crimes, most notably the claims that she bathed in her victims’ blood in a bid to retain her youth. Whatever the truth, she has been the grisly inspiration for writers, playwrights, filmmakers, and artists from across the world. The list includes a song by the American thrash metal band Slayer or a 2008 English-language fantasy film of an international co-production between Slovakia, the Czech Republic, Hungary, and the United Kingdom. It comes as no surprise that much of the small town museum in Čachtice focuses on Báthory. TwIlIghTof ThecASTleS Most of Slovakia’s castles were destroyed after a series of anti-Habsburg uprisings in the 17th century which ended in 1711. Because the castles were considered to be centres of rebellion, rulers decided to render them useless. The emperor’s army systematically deprived them of their defence capabilities by destroying important parts of their walls, embrasures and other tactical structures. After that the castles were used as watchtowers and continued to decay. Some saw their prospects partially revived with new lives as more pleasant and luxurious chateaus, family residences or museums during the romantic period toward the end of the 18th century. For example, after the Thurzo family took over the Bojnice Castle in the 16th century, they promptly remade the heavily fortified defence structure into a Renaissance-style chateau. Later, János Pálffy, a wealthy heir and castle- The Bojnice Castle is inspired by french chateaus in the loire Valley Polish crown jewels were hidden at stará Ľubovňa Castle elizabeth Báthory

castles 203 manor Houses wiTH exHiBiT 6 svätý anton  page 105 20 Dolná strehová Kaštieľ imre madácha (imre madách manor House) www.snm.sk  Madácha 1 +421 (0)47 489-7189 Tue-Sun 10:00-17:00 €2 7 strážky  page 126 16 markušovce  page 136 25 liptovský Ján  page 142 c1 radoľa manor House www.kysuckemuzeum.sk €2 +421 (0)41 421-2505 Mon- Fri 8:00-15:30 Sun 10:00-15:30 c2 oščadnica manor House www.kysuckagaleria.sk €1  Oščadnica 13 +421 (0)41 433-2166 Tue-Fri 10:00-17:00 Sun 12:30-16:00 7 Betliar  page 177 19 Trebišov  page 183 20 michalovce  page 184 32 Humenné  page 188 c1 Hanušovce nad Topľou manor House www.muzeumhanusovce.sk  Zámocká 160/5 +421 (0)57 445-2371  Jul-Aug: Mon-Fri 7:30-18:00 Sat-Sun 14:00-18:00  Mon-Fri 7:30-15:00 from €2 c2 Budimír; manor House www.stm-ke.sk +421 (0)55 622-4035 Tue- Sat 9:00-17:00 from €1.5 CasTles anD monumenTs wHere foreigners are welComeD To HelP wiTH reConsTruCTions 50 sedliacka Dubová  page 272 71 lietava Castle  page 161 80 sklabiňa Castle  page 165 5 Banská Štiavnica  page 102 46 Šariš Castle  page 273 makeover enthusiast, gave the castle a late-Tyrolian gothic look. Mimicking the romantic chateaus of France’s Loire Valley, the Bojnice Castle has become a wonderful destination for travellers with children. Rumours that the castle is haunted have led to the whimsical International Festival of Spirits and Ghosts, held annually in late April and early May. The Pálffy family has also reconstructed the Červený Kameň Castle in an early baroque style. It now serves as a museum chronicling the development of the housing culture of the nobility and bourgeoisie in Slovakia. However, most of Slovak castles have not had such a happy ending. Many of them burned down.Two castles outside Bratislava – Devín and Pajštún – were burned intentionally by Napoleon, after he had signed a peace treaty in 1805. Two more were lost in World War II. Another two were shaken to the ground by earthquakes. The latest hit by fire was Krásna Hôrka, one of the most cherished and best- preserved castles in Slovakia. Most of the castle was destroyed in March 2012, and it needs serious reconstruction. Other castles simply fell apart because of neglect. In the past, castles had no historical value to locals who let the structures to crumble.Tragically, many destroyed the castles by using their walls as construction material for their own homes. Art historian Kresánek mentioned Bzovík Fortress as one which was partially looted by locals for its materials. “Foundation materials of the whole village of Bzovík have their origin in romanesque-gothic parts of the monastery,” Kresánek said. SAVIngnATIonAl TReASuReS In the beginning of the 20th century castles drew the focus of various tourism clubs and later the state. Many now serve as museums (Červený Kameň Castle, Modrý Kameň Castle, Kežmarok Castle), some have galleries (Bratislava Castle, Zvolen Castle), and the Ilava Castle was turned into a prison. Plenty of the castles remain a dominant feature of the towns and cities they are in, like Bratislava,Trenčín, Nitra, Zvolen, Kežmarok or Banská Bystrica. Moreover, dozens of chateaus were restored and are commercially used as restaurants or hotels. As time passes even ordinary people try to conserve or reconstruct damaged castles. For example, there were 24 castles maintained by civic associations and 36 by municipalities in 2014. Reconstruction work on castles became a sort of leisure time activity which could be enjoyed even by foreigners staying in Slovakia. (For more information go to pg 272.) While the particular motivation for people who try to save castles varies, most agree that they cannot watch as a historical treasure vanishes. “I do care about people who do not know their history, which is richer than it appears,” Rastislav Rybanský from the civic association renewing theTopoľčany Castle said. “I do care for sure about history decaying in front of my eyes.” By Roman Cuprik 29 12 13 c1 8 c334 38 36 46 41 c5 c4 20 13 14 18 69 71 70 67 80 39 49 50 25 24 1 2 7 16 148 c2 c1 2 5 6 19 20 23 11 45 1 39 15 7 8 19 20 3246 c2 c1 Cathedral dominates the nitra Castle Bzovík is a former monastery rebuilt into a fortress restoration of castles is a leisure activity for many (Photo: martin sárossy) 22 23 c2