Spectacular Slovakia - Western Slovakia 1

Includes pull-out map slovakiatravel guide SPECTACULAR SLOVAKIA content advisor

Bojnice Castle The annual coronation ceremony Hronsek Štiavnické vrchy Banská Bystrica How to use this guide 2 Seven day itinerary 4 Slovakia’sTOP 10 5 History 6 Changing Slovakia 12 Personalities 16 UNESCO 20 Sight by sight Bratislava 26 Bratislava Region 45 Western Slovakia 60 Central Slovakia 96 Northern Slovakia 118 Eastern Slovakia 166 Feature section Castles 200 Slovak art 204 Folklore 209 Gothic architecture 212 Religion 214 Wooden churches 216 Jewish heritage 220 Spas 223 Wine 228 Beer & Spirits 232 Food 234 Agritourism 238 Animal watching 240 Horses 242 Cycling 245 Rafting 249 Hiking 252 Caves 256 Skiing 259 Aqua 262 Best deals 265 Extreme - heights 268 Speed, army 270 Out of the city 272 Luxury 274 Golf 276 Genealogy 280 War 282 Mines, technical monuments 285 Industrial tours 288 Economy 290 Basics for tourists Language (inside front cover) Souvenirs 294 Events 294 Travellers’ needs 300 Restaurants 302 Index (inside back cover) Pull-out map (inside back cover) CONTENTS

Live your own story of Slovakia Top Slovak sights 32 travel feature stories Pull-out map of Slovakia Suggested seven day itinerary Information and contact details for more than 450 tourist spots Drawings of 28 historical monuments 3D aerial drawings of 7 major city centres 17 maps of city centres and major mountains More than 1,000 photos Calendar of events Selection of top hotels and restaurants ISBN 978-80-971719-0-2 The Slovak Spectator Slovak news you can trust since 1995 sPecTAcULAR sLOVAKiA

Western Slovakia Western Slovakia boasts both hilly regions and lowlands including Slovakia’s agricultural heartland in the south-central region. This area is the least forested part of the country with the largest proportion of ethnic Hungarian residents. The area around cities such asTrenčín andTrnava is relatively wealthy making it one of the most heavily industrialised parts of the country after Bratislava. The presence of the car maker PSA Citroën-Peugeot or electronics giant Samsung is a good illustration of this industrial character.The area offers a number of curative mineral springs, and a couple of notable spas built around these springs, such as Piešťany andTrenčianskeTeplice. The Žitný ostrov river-island area has been surrounded by the Danube, Malý Dunaj andVáh rivers while extending from Bratislava to Štúrovo, is rich in thermal water springs and offers a number of thermal parks including Thermal Corvinus inVeľký Meder, Thermalpark in Dunajská Streda orVadaš in Štúrovo. The Žitný ostrov area is also home of the largest drinking water reservoirs in the country.Thanks to its geography, the region features castles and fortresses built as part of the network of anti-Ottoman fortresses to protect the northern territories of the Kingdom of Hungary. Europe’s largest fortresses is in Komárno.Trenčín Castle and the country’s popular fairy-tale castle in Bojnice are among western Slovakia’s architectural landmarks. Besides being the home of the oldest city, Nitra, western Slovakia also features Skalica, another old Slovak town, which is notable not only for its historical beauties but also for its delicacies like trdelník, and the dark red and thick wine Skalický Rubín.Wineries are also prospering well in a number of other towns in western Slovakia. There is also a captive breeding population of the European bison.  pages 62-63  pages 84-85 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 24 25 26 27 33 34 35 36 3 3 39 43 44 45 47 46 48 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 23 Podhájs 60 introduction to western slovakia

1 Skalica W (town, food, wine, golf) pg 62-63, 263-264, 276 2 Holíč (castle) pg 64, 271 3 Kopčany (church, horses) pg 64, 242 4 Šaštín-Stráže (religion) pg 64-65 5 Šajdíkove Humence (golf) pg 65, 276 6 Smrdáky (spa) pg 223 7 Senica (car racing) pg 270, 276, 238, 271 8 Branč (castle - ruins) pg 66 9 Myjava (distilleries) pg 233 10 Mohyla M. R. Štefánika (monument) pg 66 11 Kláštor Katarínka (Dechtice) (monastery - ruins) pg 66, 273 12 Smolenice (castle, cave) pg 66-67 13 Dolná Krupá (manor house) pg 67 14 Trnava W (city, churches) pg 67-69, 214, 206, 230, 232, 242, 265, 271 15 Jaslovské Bohunice (nuclear power plant) pg 288-289 16 Piešťany W (town, spa, golf) pg 69-70, 274-275, 224, 263, 277 17 Krakovany (wine) pg 230 18 Podolie (castle models) pg 70 19 Tematín (castle - ruins) pg 70, 273 20 Čachtice (castle - ruins) pg 70-71, 202 21 Lubina (farm) pg 71 22 Beckov (castle - ruins) pg 71 23 Trenčín W (city, castle, flights) pg 72-74, 206, 265, 268-269, 271, 288 24 Skalka nad Váhom (monastery) pg 71, 214 25 Trenčianske Teplice (spa) pg 74-75, 225 26 Lednické Rovne (museum) pg 75, 273 27 Považská Bystrica (city) pg 75, 273 28 Manínska tiesňava (hiking) pg 75 29 Bojnice W (castle, spa, zoo) pg 76-78, 201, 226 30 Prievidza (city, flights) pg 78, 268 31 Cigeľ (mine) pg 285 32 Oslany (car racing) pg 270 33 Bojná (museum) pg 80, 238, 242 34 Oponice (manor house) pg 80 35 Dražovce (church) pg 80-81 36 Nitra W (city, castle, flights) pg 84-85, 270-271, 211, 238, 242, 265-266, 268 37 Hrušov (castle - ruins) pg 81 38 Topoľčianky W (castle, horses, bisons) pg 81-82, 243, 230 39 Tesárske Mlyňany (arboretum) pg 82-83 40 Mochovce (nuclear power plant) pg 288 41 Levice (town, castle) pg 83, 262, 271 42 Brhlovce (cave dwellings) pg 83 43 Podhájska (aqua) pg 262 44 Nové Zámky (town, aqua) pg 87-89, 220, 262, 266, 271 45 Kolárovo (water mill) pg 89 46 Komárno W (town, fortress) pg 90-92, 284, 201, 207, 220, 262 47 Iža (military camp) pg 92 48 Patince (aqua) pg 262-263 49 Belá (manor house) pg 274-275, 251, 230, 231 50 Štúrovo (aqua) pg 262 51 Veľký Meder (aqua) pg 262, 265 52 Gabčíkovo (dam) pg 288, 263 53 Dunajská Streda (town, aqua) pg 93-94, 265 54 Orechová Potôň (car racing) pg 270 55 Báč (golf) pg 277 56 Šamorín (horses, church) pg 242-244, 212, 221, 281 57 Jelka (water mill, golf) pg 92, 277 58 Galanta (town, aqua) pg 93, 238, 242, 262, 272 59 Tomášikovo (water mill) pg 93  page 262  pages 69-70  pages 76-78  pages 81-82  pages 72-74  pages 90-92  page 75 28 29 30 31 32 37 38 40 41 42 49 50 Cígeľ ska introduction to western slovakia 61

62 western slovakia - skalica 1 Kostol sv. Michala Archanjela (Church of St Michael the Archangel)  Námestie slobody, Skalica +421 (0)34 664- 5341 (TIC Skalica)  entrance hall (interior during tours provided by the info centre, May 17-Sep 21: Fri, Sun 14:00-18:00 Sat 9:00-18:00)  Mon-Sat 7:00 Sun 7:00, 10:30 Námestie slobody (Freedom Square in English) has a triangular shape, which is rare in Slovakia. In the centre there is a milepost showing distances from Skalica to locations all around the world and along with the surrounding streets, it forms a historical zone. The dominant feature of the square is the Church of St Michael the Archangel. It has undergone numerous style changes, but the basic design is gothic. Construction began in the second half of the 14th century. It was originally built as a one-nave church but was later altered into a three-nave basilica. The church has been plagued by fires through the years. The most serious occurred in 1639, when the church (along with nearly 300 houses) was damaged. A monumental Renaissance tower was later added and climbing the 120 wooden steps leads to an extraordinary view from the balcony. Inside, the altar is adorned with decorations from the 17th and 18th centuries. Just a few steps from the church, hidden behind a grove of willows, is the rotunda of St Anne originally built at the end of the 14th century. 2 Dom kultúry a Záhorské múzeum (House of Culture and Záhorie Museum)  Námestie slobody 11, Skalica +421 (0)34 664- 4230 www.zahorskemuzeum.sk  Jun-Sep: Mon-Fri 8:00-15:30 Sat 10:00-13:30 Sun 14:00-17:30; Oct-May: Mon-Fri 8:00-15:30 Sat-Sun booking necessary€1.5  WC The House of Culture is one of the architectural beauties of Skalica. Built in the early 20th century, it stands on the central square near the Church of St Michael the Archangel. This picture-postcard site was designed by prominent Slovak architect Dušan Jurkovič in the art nouveau style and opened in 1905. Mosaics by Czech painter Mikoláš Aleš symbolising Czech and Slovak solidarity decorate the exterior façade of the building. Jurkovič spent part of his life here, and his two sisters and father are buried here. Jurkovič designed their gravestones and also the tower of Skalica’s Evangelical church. In 1905 when the House of Culture opened it was one of the intellectual centres of the national-liberation fight with Austro-Hungarian rulers. Today, it is a venue for cultural events and a museum. 3 Trdelník and Skalický Rubín (pastry and wine) Vinotéka u Františkánov (tavern)  Kráľovská 16, Skalica +421 (0)34 664-9136  Apr-Nov: Mon-Thu 10:00-17:00 Fri-Sat 10:00-19:00 Sun 13:00-19:00; Dec-Feb: Mon-Thu 10:00-17:00 Fri-Sat 10:00-19:00 Sun 10:00-17:00   WC The tasty, sweet experience of trdelník is a must-have in Skalica, as are the local wines. The pastry, made from dough wrapped around a wooden stick and baked over an open fire before being topped with sugar and walnuts, has a long tradition in the region. In 2007 it was registered as the first Slovak product with a protected geographical indication in the European Union. One of the best places to taste trdelník is the Vinotéka u Františkánov located in the former Franciscan monastery. 1 Skalica X map A 3  94 km / 59 miles (64 min) N of Bratislava  14,441 Námestie slobody 10, Skalica +421 (0)34 664-5341 (May 17-Sep 21: tours around the town in English, booking necessary from €2.5) www.skalica.sk   1 km / 0.6 mile NW of the centre  May: Trdlofest (festival of music, wine and trdelník); June/July: Skalica Music Fest (rock music festival); September: Days of Skalica Skalica is notable for being one of the oldest towns in Slovakia. It received town privileges in 1372, but was inhabited long before. As a free royal town Skalica had formidable fortifications, parts of which remain. It was an important centre of the region because of the Via Bohemica connecting Prague with Budapest that passed nearby. The town walls recall Hussite wars in the 15th century, an era when many influential families passed through. It was also the capital of Slovakia for a brief time in 1918. Now, Skalica is known not only for its historical beauties or delicacies like trdelník and Skalický Rubín wine, but also for its factories (Grafobal, Didaktik or INA) and hockey club HK36 Skalica.

On weekdays it is possible to have a look at how the delicacy is made. Wine-lovers can stick around to sip samples. The wine indigenous to this locality is the dark red and thick wine of Skalický Rubín, but the area is also known for red Skalická Frankovka. 4 Rotunda sv. Juraja (Rotunda of St George)  the street Potočná leads to the rotunda. Before the street Pod Kalváriou turn right and walk up the stairs +421 (0)34 664-4230 (Záhorie Museum) or +421(0)34 664-5341 (TIC Skalica)  May 17-Sep 21: Fri, Sun 14:00-18:00 Sat 9:00-18:00 Skalica offers several places with a gorgeous view of the town. One is from the small plateau with the oldest and most photographed building in town, the Rotunda of St George. This romanesque rotunda with a semi-cylindrical apse is from the late 12th century. The upper part of the building, which is connected with fortifications, was used for protection and the lower part as a chapel. From the gothic times there are interior fragments of murals showing legends about St George. Near the rotunda on the next hill, there is a classicist calvary with a stone cross and crucified Jesus, statues of St Mary and St Joseph, as well as small chapels containing Stations of the Cross religious scenes. 5 Mlyn bratov Pilárikovcov (Mill of the Pilárik brothers)  Pplk. Pľjušta 8, Skalica +421 (0)34 664-5341 (TIC Skalica)  May 17-Sep 21: Fri, Sun 14:00- 18:00 Sat 9:00-18:00 This impressive industrial sight was originally owned by the brothers Piláriks, who bought an old water- mill and rebuilt it as an electric one with three floors. It was in use for 30 years. Now it houses a museum of agricultural tools and machines, while its technology has been very well preserved. Baťov kanál (Baťa Canal)  4 km / 2.5 miles NW of the centre (follow the traffic signs reading Prístav Skalica) +421 (0)948 998-410 www.prvaplavebna.sk  May-Sep: Tue-Sun 10:00-17:00 from €13 per hour   WC The Baťov kanál (Baťa Canal) runs from Skalica to the southern part of Moravia. The company of the well-known shoe producer Tomáš Baťa built the waterway between 1934 and 1938 to transport the coal excavated in the mines of Ratíškovice to its heating plant in Otrokovice. The waterway is partly man-made but also includes a stretch of the Morava River. After it was built, the waterway served many purposes including irrigation control and recreational sailing until the 1960s when it gradually fell into neglect. Today, its technical facilities are being reconstructed and the waterway is used more and more by tourists. Boat rentals are available. Skalica Golf Resort  Potočná 40/260, Skalica +421 (0)34 698-3901 www. golfskalica.sk 8:00–20:00  (Mon-Thu) from €25; (Fri-Sun) from €35  WC Located just a few kilometers from Skalica and a little over an hour north of Bratislava (90 km), the 18-hole Skalica Golf Resort began its operation in 2010. This par 72 course, carved from treeless pastures on a broad hillside, is large with four long (530-540 metres) par-five holes and a total length of 6,677 meters (7,193 yards). While a player might not notice during play, an aerial view shows the course built around an empty rectangular field almost as large as the course itself, most likely a legacy of the difficulty of securing enough contiguous land for a full- size golf course that plagues Slovak course designers. Playing the course can be a little confusing with several long walks from one green to the next tee. And it is largely a walking course – there are few electric buggies. Still the course is new, very well maintained, and clearly both challenging and fun. Water, including a large man- made lake, and sand and foliage hazards keep the golfer honest but the real challenge comes from the unrelenting and shifting winds. There is almost a links feel to Skalica fairways – lacking only the sea grasses and sandy soil. Greens roil and undulate with a lot of tricky hole placements possible. Area hotels offer excellent accommodation/golf packages and golfers from the nearby Czech Republic have discovered the course’s charms and challenges. So too have those seeking golf instruction as the facility offers a driving range, pitching and putting greens, and practice fairway for iron shots and instruction. The golf shop and snack bar/restaurant are adequate but the facility is clearly all about golf. western slovakia - skalica 63 Trainstation9min Naskale Námestie slobody Gorkého Kollárova Pplk.Pljušťa Komenského Zápotočná Strieborná Mierová Potočná Štefánikova Škarniclovská Jatočná Vally Nám.sv.Trojice Podhradie Vally Blahova Sasinkova Vally Družstevná Lichardova PodKlaváriou Kráľovská Pivovarská Potočná Zamestskouzďou Gorkého Madvova Andreja Kmeťa Jezuitská Mýtna Štefánikova N i 1 2 3 5 4 Photo:courtesyofSkalicaGolfResort

64 western slovakia 2 Holíč map A 3  87 km / 54 miles (57 min) N of Bratislava  11,255  Bratislavská 6, Holíč +421 (0)34 668-5155 www.holic.sk    July: Cibula Fest (Onion Fest); October: Night of Spooks at Castle Holíčsky zámok (Holíč Castle)  Zámocká 2, Holíč +421 (0)34 321-0582 information centre  May-Sep: Tue-Sun 11:00, 13:00-16:00 (entrance every hour) €1  WC The Holíč Castle is a baroque- classicistic edifice with a specifically shaped mediaeval fortification. It was built in the centre of the town in the late 12th century and occupies an attractive position on a trade route. The most famous owner of this estate was Francis Stephen, the Duke of Lorraine and husband of Empress Maria Theresa. Apart from Bratislava, Holíč was the only imperial seat in Slovakia. During Maria Theresa’s reign, the castle was developed into a beautiful summer residence for the royal family. After 1918 it became a property of the state and was used as a school. Though declared a national cultural monument in 1970, it underwent an unsuccessful privatisation after the fall of the communist regime. Now the U-shaped castle is back in the hands of the Holíč municipality and undergoing a much-needed reconstruction. Despite being past its best days, young newlyweds frequently take advantage of the nostalgia with photos on their big day. 3 kopčany map A 3  79 km / 49 miles (52 min) N of Bratislava  2,580 www.kopcany.sk   Kopčany is a small village located in fields on the east side of the Morava River. There are three things which have put it on the map of distinctive places in Slovakia. The first is that Tomáš Garrigue Masaryk, the first president of former Czechoslovakia, has his roots here. The second is a tiny pre- romanesque church, hidden in the fields, dedicated to St Margaret of Antioch. The third is the baroque stud farm Štít. Kostol sv. Margity Antiochijskej (Church of St Margaret of Antioch)  1.5 km / 0.9 mile N from the church on the square; follow signs with the pictogram of the church leading to a concrete road into fields  exterior views only The Church of St Margaret of Antioch, the oldest church preserved in its almost original form in central Europe, stands outside the village on the east bank of the Morava River accented by a single lime tree. It dates to the 9th century, the times of Great Moravia. Its construction overlaps with building the Great Moravian fort Valy located across the Morava River near the Czech town of Mikulčice. The site includes the foundations of 12 Great Moravian churches. Recent archaeological and historical research shows this pre-romanesque church as a uniquely preserved type of a single- nave church with a rectangular- ended sanctuary, commonly built in Europe between the 8th and 11th centuries. Slovakia has submitted the Church of St Margaret of Antioch to the UNESCO World Heritage’s tentative list. Barokový žrebčín Štít (Baroque stud farm Štít)  Kollárova 1146, Kopčany +421 (0)34 668- 2346 booking necessary WC The impressive baroque stud farm was founded by Duke Francis of Lorraine in 1736, who at that time also bought a castle in the nearby Holíč. Empress Maria Theresa granted the stud farm royal status in 1765. Czech Kladrubers were among the prominent breeds. The stud farm was designed as a square with four wings. Exterior arches and gables created a whole. It was partnered with the Holíč Castle, which is about six kilometres away and was the place where the royal family liked to spend summers. Horse breeding ended in the early 19th century and later the premises served various purposes, including as a distillery. Lack of maintenance during the communist regime left it dilapidated. Some parts have been reconstructed in more recent years. 4 ŠaŠtín-Stráže map A 4  68 km / 42 miles (70 min) N of Brati- slava  5,107 www.mestosastinstraze.sk   Wind mill in Holíč

Gazárka – rekreačná oblasť (Gazárka – recreational area)  Do Gazárky, Šaštín-Stráže +421 (0)34 659- 2348 www.gazarka.eu  May-Sep  WC Bazilika Sedembolestnej Panny Márie (Basilica of Our the Lady of Seven Sorrows in Šaštín)  Kláštorné námestie 1295, Šaštín-Stráže +421 (0)903 160-904 www.bazilika.sk  Mon-Fri 7:00-18:00 Sat-Sun 7:00-20:00  Mon-Fri 7:00, 18:00 Sat 8:00, 19:00 Sun 7:00, 8:45, 10:30, 19:00 voluntary   In Šaštín-Stráže almost everyone knows the story about Countess Angela Bakičová and her husband Imrich Czobor. In 1564 they were hiding from the Ottomans in the woods of Šaštín. Czobor had been treating his wife badly and left her stranded in the forest in Šaštín. Angela was frightened and began to pray to the Virgin Mary for help, as well as improvement in her marriage. In the prayer she promised to build a wooden statue of the Our Lady of the Seven Sorrows if her prayers were answered. It happened. From then on, she and her husband lived happily and harmoniously. They had a wooden statue made and had it placed on a pillar at the place where Angela prayed. At the site of a series of additional miracles, the Order of Paulines built a pilgrimage church and monastery during the first half of the 18th century. The church, an excellent example of central European baroque art, was consecrated on August 12, 1762 in the presence of Empress Maria Theresa and her husband Francis Stephen, Duke of Lorraine. Three days later the miraculous statue of the Virgin Mary was put on the main marble altar. At that time it was one of the largest baroque churches in central Europe. The frescoes, depicting an opening sky and the carved confessionals, are a memorable part of rococo decoration. The Paulines left Šaštín for Poland after Emperor Joseph II cancelled the Pauline order, and in 1924 the Salesians of Don Bosco settled here. In 1964, the church was declared a Basilica Minor, a title with certain privileges given to some Roman Catholic churches by the pope. Thousands visit the site every year. The main pilgrimage takes place on September 15, the holiday of the Our Lady of the Seven Sorrows, patroness of Slovakia. 5 penatiGolfreSort map A 4  86 km / 53.3 miles (60 min) NE of Bratislava  1,082  Šajdíkove Humence 453 +421 (0)917 907-777 www.penatigolfresort. sk 8:00-20:00  (Mon-Thu) from €38; (Fri-Sun) from €48  WC The enormous size of the Penati Golf Resort, 217 hectares, in light of the scarcity of contiguous land for golf courses in Slovakia, is the first but certainly not the last noteworthy characteristic of this 36-hole golf centre. In addition to all the trappings of a golf academy – driving range, putting and chipping greens, first-rate instruction – and a resort – restaurant, golf shop, pro shop, even au pair service on weekends, there are two rather remarkable 18-hole courses. The older course, Legend (2012), is a Nicklaus Design course, suitable as a host course for PGA tournaments. This 6,313-metre, par 72 masterpiece features, as one of its signature holes, number 15, a par 5 that may be set up as 716 meters long from the black tee, in which case it is a par 6. The course claims it is the longest hole in Europe. Number 18, a par 4 has the highly recognisable raised island green of a Nicklaus course. Greens, many of which are three-tired, are large and the fairways full of bunkers and large sand traps. The Heritage course (2013) is a fairly typical links-style course in a woodland setting. Designed by Jonathan Davison, the 6,230-metre, par 72 course offers a completely different golfing experience than Legend. There is more water including two island greens, and streams draining into the lake crisscrossing the course keeps the golfer honest and watchful. Greens, often guarded by water hazards, are, on occasion, roiling and somewhat smaller than the Nicklaus course. The long par 5 fifth hole, is particularly challenging. The two courses nicely complement each other finishing just across a pond from the clubhouse restaurant keeping those at the “19th hole” still involved in the game. The tall pines and naturally sandy soil create a wonderful natural setting about an hour and half from Bratislava, near Senica. western slovakia 65 The Virgin Mary of Seven Sorrows in Šaštín Photo:courtesyofPenatiGolfResort

66 western slovakia 6 Smrdáky (spa)  page 223 7 Senica (car racing)  page 270 8 Hrad Branč (Branč Castle - ruins) map B 4  107 km / 66.5 miles (80 min) NE of Bratislava  0.6 km / 0.4 mile SW of the castle Podbranč, Podzámok non-stop While visiting the Senica district in the Záhorie region, the ruins of Branč Castle near the village Podbranč are clearly visible. The structure guarded nearby towns and villages from the later half of the 13th century. The castle remained intact until the 18th century, but after it ceased to be effective as a fortress, the nobility moved into more convenient residences and it fell apart.Today, the castle is a favourite summer day trip destination for hikers. The view from the castle offers a beautiful panorama of the Záhorie region including the towns of Senica and Myjava. 9 myjava (distilleries)  page 233 10 moHyla m. r.Štefánika (Tumulus of gen.M.R.Štefánik) map B 4  96 km / 60 miles (97 min) NE of Bratislava  non-stop The 543-metre high Bradlo hill is the highest point in the Myjavská pahorkatina mountains. Standing just above the small village of Košariská it houses the grave of General Milan Rastislav Štefánik (1880-1919). The site is considered a masterpiece designed by prominent Slovak architect Dušan Jurkovič. It was unveiled in 1928, nine years after Štefánik and three companions who died in an airplane accident were buried on the hill in 1919. The monument is most accessible by car from the town of Brezová pod Bradlom. Štefánik, born and raised in Košariská, is one of the most prominent people in Slovakia’s history. He was a scientist, astronomer, and politician. His activities in the Czechoslovak Legions of World War I significantly contributed to the creation of the first Republic of Czechoslovakia. He was a close companion of its first president, Tomáš Garrigue Masaryk. Coming home from Italy on May 4, 1919, aged 38, he died tragically in a plane crash near the village Ivanka pri Dunaji close to Bratislava. The place is marked by a smaller granite monument, also designed by Jurkovič. A minor planet is named after Štefánik, because of his merits in astronomy. He did astronomic observations inTahiti, France and other places around the world. Between 1993 and 2009 his portrait was on the 5,000 Slovak-crown banknote. 11 kláŠtor katarínka (Monastery of St Catherine - ruins) map B 4  82 km / 51.2 miles (73 min) NE of Bratislava  2.7 km / 1.7 miles S of monastery Naháč  follow the signs in the direction from the village Naháč to Dechtice, turn onto the rocky road drive about 1.5 km / 0.9 mile; parking available (20 min walk - ye- llow touristic sign) +421 (0)2 4329-4373 www.katarinka.sk  non-stop This Franciscan monastery and church was founded on the site where St Catherine is said to have revealed herself to noble young men.Today the ruins are visible in the woods on a hill above the villages of Dechtice and Naháč. The monastery was built in the early baroque style with neo-gothic elements. The reforms of Emperor Joseph II, who abolished the monastery along with 738 other monasteries in 1786, led to its decline. Monks had to leave and the inventory was given away to other churches. Starting in 1995 a group of volunteers began renovating the site. 12 Smolenice map B 4  54 km / 33 miles (65 min) NE of Bratislava  3,379 www.smolenice.com   Known mostly because of its castle, Smolenice village is one of the prettiest places in the Small Carpathians. Near the village is the Driny Cave, and also Záruby, the highest hill of the Small Carpathians, a popular place for hiking. Jaskyňa Driny (cave)  1.5 km / 0.9 mile SW of Smolenice near recreati- onal area Jahodník +421 (0)33 558-6200 www.ssj.sk  Apr-Oct: Tue-Sun 10:00-14:30; Jun: Tue-Sun: 9:00-16:00; Jul-Aug: 10:00-17:00 (entrance every hour) €6   WC  35 min The Driny Cave is the only one in western Slovakia open to the public and ranks among the main tourist attractions of the Small Carpathians. Compared to other Slovak caves open to the public, it is smaller, but its interior is charming. The first attempt to enter the cave was made by Prussian soldiers during the Austro-Prussian War, but it was only fully explored during the 20th century. The 450-metre tour shows rich limestone formations, typical curtains of stone with tooth-like edges. The most beautiful formations in the cave are thin sheets of rock called elephant’s ears. Observant zoologists can spot 11 types of bats. Statue of M. R. Štefánik in Košariská Photo:MichalRengevič

western slovakia 67 To reach the cave go to the Jahodník recreation area and take the marked trail, about 15 minutes’ walk from the parking lot. Smolenický zámok (Smolenice Castle)  Zámocká 18, Smolenice, on the hill above the village +421 (0)33 558-6191 www.kcsmolenice. sav.sk  Jul-Aug: Mon-Sun 10:00-18:00 (entrance every hour) €2   WC The Smolenice Castle looks almost lost in the forest from a distance. Its history goes back to the early 15th century. It served as a guard castle for the commercially-important Czech road. Those were probably the best times for the place. It was abandoned during the 18th century and, during the Napoleonic wars, it burnt down almost completely. But Móric Pálffy and his son József infused the castle with new life. Reconstruction started in 1887 and continued until World War I when the death of József Pálffy interrupted the project. It was finally completed after 1945 when the castle became state property. In 1953, a lengthy reconstruction was finished and the castle was handed over to the Slovak Academy of Sciences. There are a few ways to get inside the castle. If you are looking for a wedding site, the castle offers its rooms for those who dream about a fairy-tale wedding. You can also get in by becoming a scientist and attending the seminars and conferences held in the science academy’s conference rooms. The last option, and the easiest one, is coming during the summer holidays when the castle is open for the public. A tour includes going up the hexagonal tower to enjoy the view of Smolenice and its wider surroundings. 13 dolnákrupá mapB470km/43.6miles(48 min)NEofBratislava2,284www. dolnakrupa.com Kaštieľ(manorhouse) Hlavná572/109DolnáKrupá+421 (0)33245-3130;+421(0)905285-103 www.snm.skMay-Sep:Tue-Fri8:00-15:30 Sat-Sun13:00-17:00;Oct-Apr:Tue-Fri8:00-15:30 Sat-Sunbookingnecessary€2(basic)€8 inforeignlanguagebookingnecessary WC  ParkMay-Sep:Mon-Sun8:00-20:00;Oct-Apr:Mon-Sun 8:00-18:00 The manor house with its accompanying English garden is the main reason for visiting the small village of Dolná Krupá. Composer Ludwig van Beethoven was once a friend of its owner, Joseph Brunsvik, and visited the place several times, even composing the Moonlight Sonata here. The current baroque- classicistic form of the manor house is a result of the last rebuilding from 1818 to 1828, and the manor house is considered one of the best examples of rural classicist architecture in Slovakia. In those times a park was an inseparable part of such aristocratic seats. Unfortunately, only a fraction of the park, designed by Henrik Nebbien, remains. Still, it offers pleasant walks with exclusive views of the manor. An annual rose exhibition recalls the days when some 6,000 species of roses lined the grounds.Today the manor house holds the music exposition of the Slovak National Museum. The village is also the seat of the Apimed company, which makes award-winning mead. 14 trnava X mapB458km/36miles(44min)NEof Bratislava66,358Trojičnénámestie1,Trnava +421(0)33323-6440 www.trnava.sk1.3km/0.8mileSWof centreMay:Open-airfestivalLumen(gospelmusic); August:TrnavskýJazzyk(jazzfestival),TrnavaGate (folklorefestival);August/September:TrnavaOrgan Days;September:TrnavaTraditionalMarket; November:WineCellarDay;December: Christmasmarket Western Slovakia is rich in history, culture, architecture, cuisine and language.Trnava, the centre of the district and region of the same name, is an excellent example.Trnava was the first town in the area of present-day Slovakia to be given the privileges of a free royal town, which Hungarian King Béla IV granted in 1238. In 1543, when the Ottomans overran Esztergom, the Esztergom archbishop and his office moved to Trnava and the town became the religious and cultural centre of the Hungarian Kingdom for almost 300 years. This contributed greatly to the town’s development and even todayTrnava is referred to as Little Rome. Cardinal Peter Pázmány establishedTrnava University here, which moved to Buda in 1777, but at the end of the 18th century, the city became a centre for Catholic intellectuals who fostered the Slovaks’ national awakening. Alongside other bigger towns in the region,Trnava benefited from its position on a major trade route, which also gave it a multicultural character. After the archbishop moved back to Esztergom, the town’s importance declined, though it underwent another boom later with the growth of industry. The first horse-drawn railway in the empire was the Bratislava- Trnava line, launched in 1846. Meanwhile, industry continued to grow, with the most recent big arrival being French carmaker PSA Peugeot Citröen, which built a technologically advanced plant, drawing numerous subcontractors to the region. Beethoven in Dolná Krupá Photo:MiroŠvec

68 western slovakia - trnava 1 Hlavná ulica, Trojičné námestie (Main Street and Trinity Square) Divadlo Jána Palárika (Ján Palárik Theatre)  Trojičné námestie 2, Trnava +421 (0)33 551-1125   www.djp.sk  for performances onlydepends on performance   WC Mestská veža (town tower)  Štefánikova 1, Trnava +421 (0)33 323-6440  May-Sep: Mon-Sat 11:00-17:30 Sun 15:00-17:30 (interior including the rising onto the top of the tower)  Mon-Fri 10:00-16:30 (entrance every hour) €3  Main Street and theTrinity Square have marked the centre of the town for centuries. Main Street used to connect the LowerTown Gate from the south and the UpperTown Gate from the north. It is lined with attractive historical houses, including the town hall, rebuilt in the classicist style, as well as Renaissance buildings and the gothic Church of St Helena. The part of the street that runs through the pedestrian zone offers lively shops, cafés and restaurants, and runs into the square dominated by the 16th -century Renaissance tower. At 57 metres in height, the tower affords views over the whole city and its vicinity, and is connected to a small museum documenting the town’s history. A tourist information centre can be found at the tower’s base. Other major features include the baroque column of the HolyTrinity, the Theatre of Ján Palárik and the House of Culture, which was built during the communist regime. 2 Gallery of Ján Koniarek  page 206 3 Katedrála sv. Jána Krstiteľa (St John the Baptist Cathedral)  Univerzitné námestie, Trnava +421 (0)33 591-2111 www.abu.sk  Apr-Oct: Tue-Fri 10:00-12:00, 13:00-16:00 Sat 11:00-15:00  Mon-Sat 7:30 Sun 9:30, 11:30voluntary Among the buildings of the so-called university complex, the Cathedral of St John the Baptist is surely the most impressive. It is among the most valued historical monuments inTrnava and is the first early baroque building of greater importance in all of Slovakia. The cathedral’s origins go back to the arrival of the Jesuits inTrnava, it was consecrated in 1637. The main altar was completed in 1640, but further artistic details were added gradually until the early 18th century. Three naves are separated by Ionic columns. Decorations consist of rich stucco ornamentation and scenes from the life of John the Baptist. The church interior’s most notable feature is the wooden main altar, standing 20.3 metres high adorned with gilded cornices, sacral scenes and statues of saints. A bronze statue of Pope John Paul II in front of the church marks his visit to the town in 2003. 4 Malásynagóga (SmallSynagogue) Halenárska3,Trnavaexteriorviewsonly 5 Synagóga - Galéria súčasného umenia (Synagogue - Centre of Contemporary Art)  Halenárska 2, Trnava +421 (0)33 551-4657  www.gjk.sk  Tue-Fri, Sun 13:00-17:00 €1.2  WC Despite the Roman Catholic Church’s significant influence on Trnava, the town was also home to a sizable Jewish population.Trnava’s Jewish community experienced many ups and downs, with one of the worst periods being the 16th century, when it was expelled from the town over false accusations of the ritual murder of a child. The situation improved after 1783 during the reign of Emperor Joseph II. By the 1930s, nearly 3,000 Jews lived inTrnava. Most perished in concentration camps during World War II.Today, there is no active Jewish community inTrnava, but two synagogues, standing in close proximity to each other, just a few minutes walk from the Church of St Nicolas, remind of that former Jewish presence. The small Orthodox synagogue, built in 1892, stands in the shadow of the newer, bigger Status Quo Ante Synagogue, which was built in 1897 in a Moorish-Byzantine style. The latter is easy to find with its twin towers capped with spherical domes. Both synagogues were reconstructed after the fall of the communist regime. Bočná Trainstation4 min 25 25 25 P Kapitulská Strelecká Rybníková Hornébašty Pekárska Hornopotočná Františkánska Štefánikova HospodárskaVajanského Vajanského VajanskéhoHlavná HlavnáAndrejaŽarnova Športová Paulínska JánaHollého Halenárska Halenárska Hlboká Hlboká Michalská Jeruzalemská Jerichova Nám.Sv. Mikuláša Orolská Štefánikova Univerzitné nám. Hviezdoslavova Trojičné nám. Divadelná Dolnopotočná Trhová Veselá Dolnébašty Dolné bašty Kollárova Kollárova Radlinského Haulíkova M. Sch. Trnovského Kapitulská i 1 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 Photo:courtesyofGalériaJánaKoniarka

western slovakia - trnava, piešťany 69 6 Bazilika sv. Mikuláša (Basilica of St Nicolas)  Námestie sv. Mikuláša, Trnava +421 (0)33 593-1081  Apr-Jun, Sep-Oct: Tue-Fri 10:00-12:00, 13:00-16:00 Sun 14:00-17:00; Jul-Aug: Tue-Fri 10:00-12:00, 13:00-17:00 Sun 14:00-17:00  Mon-Fri 16:00, 18:30 Sat 10:00, 18:30 Sun 7:30, 9:00 (latin), 10:30, 18:30 voluntary When standing with back turned to the Ján Palárik Theatre, one can see the grand towers of the Basilica of St Nicholas all the way from HolyTrinity Square. Situated on the site ofTrnava’s oldest settlement, the triple nave church was built in the late-gothic style on the site of an older romanesque church between the 14th and 15th century. It served as the cathedral of the Archdiocese of Esztergom until 1820. The church is also one of the many Marian pilgrimage sites in Slovakia. An octagonal chapel dating from the first half of the 18th century, located to the left when entering the church, houses a painting of the Virgin Mary, also known as the Merciful Mary ofTrnava. Legend has it that when the Ottomans were plunderingTrnava, tears of blood emerged from the painting. A few years later, according to a legend, a plague that hit the town ended when inhabitants promised the Virgin Mary to serve mass under the painting. 7 Hradby (fortification walls)  Hospodárska, Dolné Bašty, Hlboká and Horné Bašty streets  exterior views only Trnava is the proud home of one of the best-preserved fortified walls in central Europe. Built in the 13th and 16th centuries, the walls encircled the 800 by 700 metre centre whenTrnava was one of the largest towns in central Europe. In the beginning, the fortified walls were almost three kilometres long and featured towers and bastions. There were four gates, including the restored Bernolák Gate on the Divadelná Street. When the walls lost their protective function in the 18th century, they were partially dismantled. About 1.5 km of the walls have been preserved, however, especially those along the town’s western and eastern sections. Now they are part of the city’s historical monuments, with the moats converted into parks. 15 jaSlovSké BoHunice (nuclear power plant)  pages 288-289 16 pieŠťany X map B 4  88 km / 55 miles (57 min) NE of Bratislava  28,149  Pribinova 2, Piešťany +421 (0)33 771-9621 www.piestany.sk 2.2 km / 1.4 miles NW of centre  2 km / 1.2 miles NW of centre  June: Festival Doda Šošoku (jazz festival), Piešťany Festival (classical music), Topfest (rock music); August: Organ Days, Grape festival (music festival), Lodenica (country music) Balneologické múzeum Piešťany (Balneological Museum Piešťany)  Beethovenova 5, Piešťany +421 (0)33 772- 2875  www.balneomuzeum.sk  Tue-Sun 9:00-12:00, 13:00-17:00€0.66    WC (partly) Kúpeľný ostrov (Spa Island)  0.5 km / 0.3 mile E of centre +421 (0)33 775-7733 www.piestany.danubiushotels.sk  non stop free    Vojenské historické múzeum (Military Historical Museum)  Žilinská cesta 6545, Piešťany +421 (0)33 791- 3804  www.vhu.sk  Jun, Sep: Sat-Sun 10:00, 13:00, 15:00; Jul-Aug: Wed-Sun 10:00, 13:00, 15:00€€1   WC Piešťany is, and has always been, best known for its spa, which has drawn famous personalities like Empress Sissi, composer Ludwig van Beethowen, and maharajas from India and Malaysia. The first mention of the town, then known as Pescan, was in 1113 and the first written mention describing Piešťany as a spa town dates from 1549. In 1682 Emperor Leopold I issued a document protecting Piešťany as a spa, the very first paper of its kind in Europe, which released the town and the nearby village of Banka from the duty to house soldiers and banned the requisition of horses, cattle or food for the empire’s militia. In 1720, it became the property of the Erdődy family which owned it until 1940. Ľudovít Winter developed the spa town into its current form and made its spa known worldwide. Piešťany spa is notable for its gypsum-sulphuric thermal water and curative sulphur mud. It focuses on treating locomotive organs and neurological diseases. Most of the spa facilities are situated on the 60-hectare Spa Island in the eastern part of town. There are a number of hotels, spa houses, sport Basilica of St Nicolas The Merciful Mary of Trnava Curativesulphurmud(Photo:courtesyofSpaPiešťany)

70 western slovakia fields, a golf course and a thermal water park on the island. In the beginning of the 19th century the first stone spa houses in classicist style were built, together with a spa park. The buildings were later rebuilt and are now known as Napoleon’s Spa. The 19th century was also characteristic for development of the spa treatment, led by doctor Franz Ernest Scherer, the tenant of the spa and founder of the Military Spa Institute. Between 1889 and 1940 the family of Alexander Winter rented the spa. During this period several spa facilities were built including the most prominent spa facilities like the five-star art nouveau Thermia Palace and Irma Spas. According to legend, it was the water that healed that healed a peacock’s broken leg while he was bathing in a thermal spring, so the image of peacock can be frequently seen in the town and spa facilities. The island is connected with the town centre by the functionalist Colonnade Bridge, an acclaimed work by prominent 1930s architect Emil Belluš. On the town side there is a bronze sculpture of a man breaking his crutches by Robert Kühmayer. This statute has become a symbol of the town and the power of the curative mud. Another piece of art closely connected with the spa is a painting by Alfons Mucha, whose daughter successfully healed in Piešťany. In 1932, he donated a large allegorical painting, God Bless the Spring of Health, to the spa. The oil painting hangs in the Thermia Palace. Most of the cultural and architectural monuments of Piešťany like historical villas, amphitheatre, chapels and churches are located on Winterova street, near the Colonnade Bridge. The Balneological Museum, composed of three buildings, houses the exhibitions of the spa history in Piešťany and history of the region. One of the buildings, located in the Park of Andrej Kmeť, which is the largest and oldest park in Piešťany, is situated in the former Spa Hall – Kursalon. 17 krakovany (wine)  page 230 18 podolie map B 4  102 km / 63 miles (65 min) NE of Bratislava 1,972  www.podolie.sk Park miniatúr (Park of Miniatures)  Podolie 510, Podolie +421 (0)32 743-7505   www.matusovo-kralovstvo.sk  Apr-Jun, Sep: Sat-Sun 9:00-17:00; Jul-Aug: Tue-Sun 9:00-17:00€3   WC The Park of Miniatures in Podolie opened in 2003, on a site near the primary school to show how some of 150 castles used to look 300-500 years ago. These include castles of Branč, Čachtice, Tematín and Šariš. At the moment there are some 50 models of castles and other historic monuments, like sacral buildings (churches, wooden churches, and rotundas), and watch and observation towers. Every model is accompanied with short information about its location and history, in both English and German. Some of them also include a brief legend, but currently only in Slovak. It is possible to have a narrated tour in English, German and Hungarian, but visitors must arrange it in advance by email or phone. 19 Hradtematín (Tematín Castle - ruins) map C 4  99 km / 61 miles (59 min) NE from Bratislava to Lúka  9 km / 5.6 miles (130 min) NE of the vilage of Lúka (follow the blue tourist sign) www.tematin.eu  non-stop free The Tematín Castle, of which only ruins remained today, was built in the 13th century. At first it was owned by the royal family, but later belonged to a series of aristocratic families. The castle was seriously damaged during the anti-Habsburg uprising led by Francis II Rákóczi in 1710. The ruins offer a spectacular view of the Považský Inovec mountains as well as the nearby villages. A group of volunteers from the civic association OZ Hrad Tematín has been preserving this national cultural monument from further decay since 2007. The shortest track to the castle leads directly from Bezovec. It takes about 50 minutes to walk. 20 čacHtice map B 4  103 km / 64 miles (68 min) NE of Bratislava  4,008 www.cachtice.sk  Čachtický hrad (Čachtice Castle - ruins)  2.6 km / 1.6 miles W of Čachtice (from Čachtice: follow the green sign that starts near the square, beside Pizzeria Bathory, takes app. 40 mins; from Višňové: follow the yellow sign, takes app. 19 mins) +421 (0)32 743-4431 www.cachtice.sk  Mon-Fri 10:00-17:30 Sat-Sun 10:00-18:00 €2.5  WC Čachtice Castle is inseparably linked with the infamous Elizabeth Báthory, known as the Blood Countess. The first mention of the castle dates back to the first half of the 13th century when it served as a border-line fortress. The castle had several important owners including Hungarian oligarch Máté Csák, Stibor from Stiborice and the Nádasdy family. After a dreadful fight against the Ottomans, Ferenc Nádasdy died The bronze sculpture in Piešťany Photo:TASR

western slovakia 71 in 1604, and his wife Elizabeth took over administration of his property. As legend has it she was investigated for murders of several hundred maidens and allegedly bathed in their blood. She was imprisoned at the Čachtice Castle in 1611, where she died confined at the castle which later turned into ruins. Archaeologists failed to find her grave during the two- year reconstruction completed in spring 2014. While Elizabeth Báthory’s tenure at the castle was only a short episode in its history and there is no definite proof she really bathed in blood, her name draws thousands of tourists every year. 21 luBina map B 3  119 km / 74 miles (75 min) NE of Bratislava  1,392 www.obeclubina.sk  Minifarma (Mini Farm)  5 km / 3.1 miles NW of Lubina +421 (0)917 661-265 www.minifarma.sk  Jun: Sat-Sun 11:00-19:00, Jul-Aug: Fri-Sun 11:00-19:00 Sun 13:00-17:00 €1.9   WC Minifarma, a family farm, is a privately-owned family farm opened in 2013 on the premises of one of many farms scattered on the area’s slopes. It offers miniature farm animals, like ponies, sheep, goats, ducks, hens, rabbits and pigs, as well as poultry. It is open for visitors who can freely walk among the animals, take pictures and pet them. To get to Minifarma pass through Lubina village and follow the sign leading towards Holubyho chata. The farm is located in the beginning of Barina (part of Lubina), on the left. 22 Beckov mapC3112km/67miles(67min)NEof Bratislava1,343www.obec-beckov.sk Beckov, Základnáškola0.7km/0.4mileSEofthecastle HradBeckov(BeckovCastle-ruins) Beckovskéhradnébradlo,Beckov +421(0)32774-2727    www.hrad-beckov.skApr-May:Tue-Sun9:00-17:30; Jun-Aug:Mon-Thu,Sun9:00-17:30Fri-Sat9:00-20:30; Sep-Oct:Tue-Sun9:00-16:30;Nov:Tue-Sun9:00-15:30 from€3.3  WC BeckovskémúzeumvKúriiAmbrovec (BeckovMuseuminCuriaofAmbrovec) neartheparkandtheFranciscanChurch +421(0)32777-7217 www.muzeumtn.sk May-Oct:Tue-Sat9:00-17:00bookingnecessary  (partly) WC The impressive ruins of Beckov Castle are on the 50-metre hill above the village of the same name. They are visible from afar and are among the most spectacular in the whole country. The first written mention of the castle, built at a strategic crossing point of the Váh River and on a major trade route, comes from 1208 under the name Castrum Blundix. However, its history dates to Great Moravian era. The stone castle built in the middle of the 13th century served for the protection of north-western borders of the Hungarian Kingdom and it proved its excellent defence abilities when it remained unconquered by the Tartars after they invaded the country in 1241. The castle later fell into the hands of Hungarian oligarch Máté Csák, who further improved its fortification. At the end of the 14th century Hungarian King Sigismund of Luxembourg gave the castle to the Polish knight Stibor, who rebuilt it into a comfortable aristocratic seat. During this era a gothic chapel and water cistern were built. The next owner, the Bánffy family, rebuilt the castle into a luxurious Renaissance fortification. After a fire in 1729 the castle was destroyed. Still, because of their architectural value the ruins are a national cultural monument and have undergone several renovations. The latest took place between 2010 and 2012. Part of that work included the creation of a museum and amphitheatre. There is also a café located in the upper part of the castle. 23 Skalka nad váHom (BenedictineAbbey) map C 3  136 km / 84 miles (82 min) NE of Bratislava  9 km / 5.6 miles NE of Trenčín (located on the cliff, in the middle of the road between villages Zamarovce and Skalka nad Váhom) Skalka nad Váhom  1 km / 0.6 mile (12 min) NW of the abbey +421 (0)32 658-4240 (parish office) www.klastorskalka.sk  May, Jun, Sep: Sat-Sun (and public holidays); Jul, Aug: Tue-Sun 10:00-17:00  Oct-Apr: booking necessary voluntary  WC A few kilometres fromTrenčín on the way to Nemšová is a monastery hidden near the woods, called Skalka. Many visitors go each year for one of the oldest pilgrimages in Slovakia, with a history that dates back to the 12th century. There are actually two pilgrimage sites at this location: Veľká Skalka, which consists of the partially intact ruins of the old stone monastery, and Malá Skalka, a twin-towered baroque church given its current form in 1745. Both sites are dedicated to Saints Svorad-Andrew and Benedict. The Benedictines operated here until the 16th century, after which the Jesuits moved in a century later. They remained until 1773. Each year around 15,000 Slovaks, Czechs, Poles and others make pilgrimages to the site. ElizabethBáthoryknownastheBloodCountess Farm life attracts visitors Photo:MiroŠvec

24 trenčín X map C 3  129 km / 80 miles (79 min) NE of Bratislava  55,883 Mierové nám. 9, Trenčín +421 (0)32 16-186 www.visittrencin.sk   1 km / 0.6 mile NE of centre  March/ April: Traditional Easter Market; July: Bažant Pohoda (open-air summer festival); July/August: Trenčín Historical and Castle Festival; September/October: Jazz Under the Castle The capital ofTrenčín Region is one of the most beautiful and ancient cities on the Váh River. The castle that sits atop the rocky hill that juts up from the centre creates a unique mediaeval atmosphere, rounded out during historical-themed events by period costumes, duelling knights and falconry performances. The first reference to Laugaricio –Trenčín’s original name – was the writing on the rock below the castle, known today as the Roman Inscription. It was made by Romans who spent the winter there during the Marcomani wars in 179 AD, and is one of the most significant Roman epigrams in central Europe. Trenčín was an important part of the Great Moravian Empire, but its biggest development came during the 13th -century rule of Máté Csák. In the Middle Ages and the following centuries, the city suffered from invasions, battles and fires, but was always reconstructed. The historical centre was given its current form after a devastating fire in 1790. Today’sTrenčín is significant for its machine manufacturing, and electronics industries, as well as culture and education, and is home to two universities. 1 Trenčiansky hrad (Trenčín Castle)  Matúšova 19, Trenčín  +421 (0)32 743-5657     www.muzeumtn.sk  May-Sep: Mon-Sun 9:00-17:30  Apr, Oct: Mon-Sun 9:00-16:30; Nov-Mar: Mon-Sun 9:00-15:30 from €3.6  (partly) WC Trenčín’s dominant architectural feature, its castle, is visible from all around the town below, and is the largest urban castle complex in Slovakia. It was built as a royal lookout fortress over an old Slavic Bronze Age settlement. At the time of the formation of the Hungarian Kingdom, it became a royal district castle. The current castle’s origins go back to the 11th century, when its structure was comprised only of a residential pre-romanesque stone tower and a stone rotunda that possibly dates back to the Great Moravian Empire. At the end of the 11th century, another stone tower (donjon) was built. Standing at the centre of the castle complex, its unique conical roof makes it the most visible part of the city’s skyline. Known as Matthew’s Tower, it affords beautiful views over the Váh River watershed. Other buildings around the tower were created for defensive purposes, but some were also used as administrative offices, as well as housing. The oldest palace, built in the 14th century during the reign of the most powerful Hungarian magnate, Máté Csák, was called Matthew’s Palace. Máté Csák used the Trenčín Castle as his residence, which led some to call him Máté Csák of Trenčín, and Trenčín underwent its biggest development during his tenure. He owned 50 other castles around Slovakia, which earned him the nickname Lord of the Váh River and the Tatra Mountains. After his death, the castle was given back to the 72 western slovakia - trenčín Matthew‘s Tower offers a spectacular view of the surroundings The fortification made Trenčín‘s castle an unconquered fortress

western slovakia - trenčín 73 Hungarian king. Later, King Charles Robert of Anjou added a fortification to the upper castle called Louis’ Fortification. This gothic building houses an exhibition of historic weapons from the 13th -19th centuries, including swords, guns, bows and other Oriental and traditional weapons. Barbora’s Palace, which merges both early Renaissance and gothic styles and includes a chapel, was ordered by Sigismund of Luxembourg as a gift for his wife, Barbara of Cilli. The third and final palace was built for the Zápolya family. Ištván Zápolya became the castle’s owner in the late 15th century and carried out some major reconstruction. His family’s palace contains early Renaissance features as well, and hosts the largest exhibit of art collected from the residences of the Illesházy family. The lower castle features a cannon bastion, a chapel and the popular Well of Love, which recounts the story of Ottoman prince Omar and his love for Fatima. 2 Galéria Miloša Alexandra Bazovského (Gallery of Miloš Alexander Bazovský)  page 206 3 Synagóga (synagogue)  Hviezdová ulica 3, Trenčín +421 (0)32 744-0769   www. visittrencin.sk, www.slovak-jewish- -heritage.org  for expositions only depends on exposition  An essential part of the city’s past was the presence of a sizable Jewish community. By the 19th century there were 990 Jews living there, and an independent rabbi’s office had been operating in the town since the 18th century. An early wooden synagogue was first mentioned in archive documents dating back to 1781. After a major fire, another synagogue was built, which was later replaced with the iron and concrete structure that still stands. It was designed by Berlin- based architect of Slovak origin Richard Scheibner. The synagogue, with its central dome, blends Byzantine and art nouveau styles. During World War II it was desecrated and its contents damaged. In 1951, it was seized by the state and used as a warehouse for clothing. It was reconstructed in the 1970s and 1980s and adapted for cultural and social events, but much of the interior design elements were damaged. The building’s interior still preserves the original blue dome, with an ornate chandelier and colourful stained glass windows. The synagogue was returned to the Jewish community in the early 1990s.Today it contains a showroom for exhibitions, and in the rear of the building is a small prayer hall. The synagogue was included in the Slovak Jewish Heritage Route project. Train station 7 min Vajanského Hasičská Mierovénámestie Pekárska Vajanského Štúrovonám. Farská Štúrovonám. MatúšovaMarkaAurélia Sládkovičova Hviezdoslavova Hasičská Palackého Jaselská Palackého Palackého Palackého Hasičská Hviezdoslavova Hviezdoslavova Farská Mierovénámestie Mapka_Trencin.indd 1 Barbora‘s Palace was built by King Sigismund of Luxembourg 1 2 4 5 3 i

74 western slovakia 4 Mestská veža (city tower)  Sládkovičova ulica 1, Trenčín +421 (0)32 16-186  www.visittrencin.sk Mon-Sun 10:00-18:00 €1 An important part ofTrenčín’s municipal fortification system was a city tower built at the beginning of the 15th century. The tower served as the western entrance to Mierové Square. Its original gate was built within a square-shaped base, but was later fortified with a semi-circular barbican, accessible via a drawbridge. The tower gradually developed into an octagonal 32-metre-high building with six floors. A Renaissance-era clock at the top of the tower was replaced by an electric clock in 1934. The original Renaissance clock is now part of an exhibition. It is possible to access the first balcony of the city tower by lift, but the top of the tower is accessible only via stairs. Over the pedestrian pass a Latin inscription is visible from both sides, which translates as “if the Lord guards the city, the watchman stays awake in vain”. 5 Piaristický kostol sv. Františka Xaverského (Piarist Church of St Francis Xavier)  Mierové nám. 1, Trenčín +421 (0)32 743-7086 www.piaristi.sk  entrance hall  Mon-Sat 6:00, 18:00, Sun and feast days 6:00, 8:00, 10:00, 18:00  Mierové Square is the historical city centre. Defensive gates were built at both ends of the square in the mid-15th century, though its shape changed regularly in the past, usually to accommodate the city’s growing population. In the mid-17th century, Jesuits built a church near the city tower with a monastery, known today as the Piarist Church of St Francis Xavier. One of the most significant sacral architecture monuments in Slovakia, it was built in an Italian early-baroque style, but the monastery and the entire church interior were damaged in a huge blaze. During its reconstruction in the early 18th century, painter and architect ChristophTausch created the ceiling fresco – one of the most unique late-baroque-era paintings of its kind in Slovakia. The middle of the square also features an 18th century plague column. Mierové Square has been the square’s official name since 1962. It is connected to the castle by the wooden Parish Stairway. Pohoda (festival)  Trenčín airport, Trenčín  shuttle service from the railway station to the airport 5.1 km / 3.2 miles NE of airport   www.pohodafestival.sk  Jul from €59    WC Slovakia’s most popular open-air music festival and widely-anticipated summer event, Pohoda, attracts visitors not only from Slovakia but from around the world. The name Pohoda means “relax”, and speaks for itself. It takes place at theTrenčín city airport, which is transformed during the festival into a small tent town with several stages, as well as stands offering drinks and snacks and various booths put up by NGOs, civic associations and vendors. Pohoda is usually held at the beginning of July and lasts three days. Mixing a variety of musical genres, Pohoda is heavy on alternative acts, but also features pop, rock, rap and even classical music. Many world- famous musicians, like Moby, Nick Cave, Thom Yorke, Lou Reed, Prodigy, Smashing Pumpkins and others have played at the festival. But Pohoda is not just about music. Visitors can also come for the festival’s host of other activities, like dance workshops, discussions of current social events, book reading clubs and theatre performances, as well as special attractions like roller coasters and zorbing.Tea houses with water pipes are also popular, and one can also get a henna tattoo or participate in an Oriental dance workshop. Yoga lovers can partake in an exercise to welcome the sun each morning. Pohoda draws around 30,000 people annually. 25 trenčianSke teplice map C 3  147 km / 91 miles (85 min) NE of Bratislava  4,197  T. G. Masaryka 21, Trenčianske Teplice +421 (0)32 651-4888  June: Artfilm Kúpele (spa)  T. G. Masaryka 21, Trenčianske Teplice, Slovakia  +421 (0)32 651-4000 www.kupele-teplice.sk Mon-Sun 10:00- 21:00  from €3.32 WC SpaTrenčianskeTeplice is located in a valley surrounded by green foothills. A spa site since the 13th century, the modern thermal facility dominates the town ofTrenčianske Teplice. Nationalised following the war, the spa’s central 1880s building, the Hammam, features a distinctive Moorish design and is joined by three communist-era hotels and several other guest houses. Arriving by car at SpaTrenčianske Teplice presents a challenge - parking is sparse and the entrance not clearly marked. Hotel lobbies have not gone through much reconstruction – requisite lobby cafés are modern and attractive however. Hotel rooms feature balconies and dormitory-style furniture that is more recent. English-speaking reception clerks and good elevators make the Charlie Chaplin in Trenčianske Teplice Photo:AmandaRivkin

western slovakia 75 accommodation experience easy. SpaTrenčianskeTeplice offers group mineral baths, segregated by gender. Many of the large bath pools are recently renovated. Surrounded by private cubicles for the required quiet time following each bath experience, this setup makes the taking the waters experience communal while maintaining privacy. Other procedures, massages, mud packs, and strictly medical treatments, are conducted in private cubicles. For those times when not getting a treatment, there is a large community pool occupying the site of the recently removed grand spa hotel. The pool is fun with water jets, a whirlpool, and a kind of circular raceway built in. This spa seems largely for ill people, not weekenders. A night disco with spinning mirror-balls, a nice roof- top café/bar, and street festivals offer diversions. A rather extensive green park is perfect for munching on spa cakes during after-dinner walks. 26 lednické rovne map C 3  156 km / 97 miles (90 min) NE of Bratislava 4,067  Námestie slobody 32, Lednické Rovne +421 (0)42 469-3501 www.lednickerovne.sk   Slovenské sklárske múzeum (Slovak Glass Muzeum)  550 m / 0.3 mile (2 min) S of Lednické Rovne centre +421 (0)42 460-1451  www.lednickerovne.sk  booking necessary free The Slovak Glass Museum in Lednické Rovne was the first official institution devoted to glass production, which as an important sector of traditional Slovak crafts dates back to the late Bronze Age. It is a specialised museum known throughout the country for its collection of valuable historical pieces, some of which are as old as the 15th century. The glass museum was established in 1988 in Lednické Rovne because of the town’s rich glass-making history. The museum was placed in the reconstructed residence of the original owners of the local glass factory, the Schreiber family. Today, this manor house hosts an exhibition of ordinary glass products, offered to potential customers. The museum was moved to a smaller building on the premises of the estate and is no longer open regularly to the public. Visitors wanting to visit the museum have to book a guide in advance. However, the manor house’s surrounding park is still used for walks and relaxation, and contains valuable plant species, too. 27 považSká ByStrica map C 3  169 km / 105 miles (93 min) NE of Bratislava  40,982  Centrum 16/21, Považská Bystrica +421 (0)42 432-6545 www.povazska-bystrica.sk 2.2 km / 1.4 miles NW of centre  1.7 km / 1.1 mile NW of centre Many tourists visiting former communist countries are looking for places which in some ways recall the totalitarian regime. Považská Bystrica is one such place. In 1929, the Roth ammunition plant moved its production from Bratislava here, triggering the town’s rapid development and a need to accommodate its growing workforce. This once huge factory, employing as many as 15,000 workers, had a major impact on Považská Bystrica, and is the reason why the town looks as it does today. New housing estates, often called paneláks, were built, especially in the 1970s and 1980s, and the town’s centre was rebuilt completely, leaving behind only a few historical buildings. Today, the dominant architectural feature of Považská Bystrica is the modern highway flyover that leads dramatically over the town. 28 manínSkatieSňava (canyon) map C 3 171 km / 106 miles (95 min) NE of Bratislava; The canyon is situated 6.5 km / 4 miles NE of Považská Bystrica +421 (0)42 438-1113 www.maninska.sk  non-stop   WC The rocky canyon formation of Manínska tiesňava in the northwestern part of the Súľovské vrchy mountains was carved out by Manínsky potok creek. Over the centuries, the creek’s waters cut the 300-metre deep canyon into a karst landscape, dividing it into the Veľký Manín and Malý Manín peaks. The canyon is almost one kilometre long and in some places only 15 metres wide. Manínska tiesňava has a sister canyon, Kostolecká tiesňava, which is shorter and wider, but which features the biggest rock overhang in the Carpathian Arch. Manínska tiesňava is accessible from Považská Teplá. An item from the Slovak Glass Museum

29 Bojnice X map D 3  182 km / 113 miles (124 min) NE of Bratislava  4,923  Hurbanovo námestie 47, Bojnice +421 (0)46 543-0303  February: Valentine’s Weekend at the Castle; May: International Festival of Ghosts and Spirits, Night of Museums and Galleries; June: Fairy tale Castle; June-July: Summer Music Festival; August: Celebration of Life; September: Knights’ Days; December-January: Noble Christmas and the Epiphany at the Castle The town of Bojnice, an agreeably small place, is the home of the prettiest fairy-tale castle in the country. Its major attractions along with the famous castle are an equally famous spa and a zoo with an excellent view of the castle designed after romantic French chateaux. Most of the bits tourists want to see are on the main street, which has a tree-lined arcade down the middle. On either side are restaurants and cafés, along with a local information centre. Bojnický zámok (Bojnice Castle)  Zámok a okolie 1, Bojnice  +421 (0)46 543- 0624 www.bojnicecastle.sk  May: Tue-Sun 9:00-17:00; Jun-Sep: Mon-Sun 9:00-17:00; Oct-Apr: Tue-Sun 10:00-15:00  €8  WC Bojnice Castle is located in the heart of Bojnice town, surrounded by numerous buildings and shops below. Where most other castles found across Slovakia sit atop hills a walk away from the town below, Bojnice developed its town around its castle, and its enormous figure is visible from the streets nearby. A fairy-tale castle with peach-coloured outer walls and impressive neo- gothic turrets, Bojnice Castle is a gem in the Upper Nitra region. Nearly 1,000 years old, the castle’s first written mention was in 1113, when a wooden castle stood in its place. Over the years, the castle was rebuilt 76 western slovakia - Bojnice Bojnice altar The pentagonal bastion of the castle in the past housed the Bojnice altar; today it features an exhibition of gothic paintings and other artwork The tapistery Joseph and his Brothers from 1615 is one of the most valuable items of the Bojnice Castle The entrance to the castle is from the north In the chapel visitors can view a gothic altar The sarcophagus of János Pálffy who died in Vienna in 1908

with stone, and throughout the centuries has remained in the hands of royalty. The castle’s best-known owner was the Pálffy family, who took over the castle in 1637. Renowned throughout Slovakia for their illustrious upkeep of castles, the Pálffy legacy features gothic, Renaissance and baroque hallmarks, and they owned the castle for 300 years. The castle’s current appearance is the work of Count János Pálffy, whose 21-year reconstruction of the castle was inspired by a mixture of the gothic architecture from southern and central French chateaus and early Renaissance Italy. The rich mahogany beams which make up the ceilings of the castle are a common feature, and their impressive façade adds a darker twist to the castle’s great halls. A keen collector of art, Pálffy adorned the many halls and chambers of the castle with numerous portraits and artefacts, ranging from numberless portraits of Hungarian kings and queens painted directly onto the walls in the blue room, to an Oriental room whose vase collection could outshine even the most ardent of ceramic collectors. The Oriental room, used originally as a workroom, was adapted by Pálffy using old Turkish panelling to line the walls, colourfully painted with Arabic calligraphy across each panel top. While each room and hall in the castle boasts an impressive collection of art and figures, the Bojnice Castle holds some particular treasures. Among them is the Bojnice altar, found in the castle’s chapel, whose numerous clear windows brighten the inside. While the large window at the chapel’s front presents a magnificent view, looking over the town below and Prievidza in the distance, the impressive altar standing at the chapel’s helm, featuring 10 altar boards painted with tempera paints, steals the limelight. The altar is the work of Italian master Nardo di Cione, and dates back to the 1350s. The chapel is visible from a balcony at the rear, which gives visitors a chance to see the details of the numerous frescoes and sculpted cherubs across the ceiling up close. The Bojnice Castle’s Golden Hall, arguably the most famous room in the complex, lives up to its name, with rich adornments and decoration dripping with gold. The ceiling is carved of pinewood and gilded with leaves, making it the focal-point of the hall. In the centre of the ceiling is a large medallion featuring an angel clutching the Pálffy coat of arms, which pictures a deer above a broken wheel. Today, this room is often used for wedding ceremonies. Although many of Bojnice Castle’s rooms encourage visitors to cast their eyes to the walls or ceiling, the Marble Hall is an exception, with its decorous yellow and black marble floor as the room’s pièce de résistance. The central table is also unique, with the embellishments from its Japanese origin and mother of pearl decoration attractive features. The castle’s great halls, comparatively more bare and comprising armour and weaponry dating back centuries, are also worth a visit, telling a very different history to that of its more luxurious counterparts. Walking through the castle complex, the numerous courtyards cast great shadows over the subjects walking below, highlighting the magnitude of the castle. However, the castle also hides 26-metre- deep travertine cave under its architecture. Situated under the level of the fourth courtyard, the castle’s well is also visible from above-ground, and the cave in which it stretches to a diameter of 22 metres. Circular in shape, the cave comprises two small lakes thought to be linked to other underground areas. The dripping sound heard in the depths of the cave indicates the amount of water still lying dormant underground, and descending the steps to the cave a rise in humidity is palpable. Originally, the cave served as both a shelter for the residents of the Bojnice Castle and a reservoir. Standing in front of the castle entrance is the 700-year-old lime tree of King Matthias Corvinus. The trunk has a circumference reaching 12.5 metres, and the base of the tree remains as the main feature of the small circular garden before the castle doors. According to a legend, King Matthias Corvinus delighted in trips to Bojnice, particularly enjoying sitting underneath the great lime tree opposite the castle. Although the tree has actually lost its monumental top, the remaining trunk pays testament to the tree’s role in previous kingly visits, and small saplings to the side are growing from the roots of the lime tree. western slovakia - Bojnice 77 The ceiling of the Golden Hall Chapel of the Bojnice Castle An angel clutching the Pálffy coat of arms Travertinecave(Photot:courtesyofMúzeumBojnice) Photo:courtesyofMúzeumBojnice

78 western slovakia Múzeum praveku / Prepoštolská jaskyňa (Museum of Prehistory / Prepoštolská Cave)  entrance is from Rybníčky street +421 (0)911 878-717  www.muzeumpraveku.sk  Mar: last Sat-Sun 10:30-16:00; Apr: Sat-Sun 10:30-17:00; May, Jun: Mon-Fri 12:30-15:00 Sat-Sun 10:30-17:00; Jul, Aug: Mon-Sun 10:00-17:30; Sep: Mon-Fri 12:30-15:00 Sat-Sun 11:00-16:30; Oct: first three Sat-Sun 11:00-16:30 €3.5   WC Besides the castle another cave is located in the historical centre of Bojnice. Findings prove existence of residents from the Palaeolithic era. The cave now holds the Museum of Prehistory. Zoo Bojnice  Zámok a okolie 6, Bojnice  +421 (0)46 540- 2975 www.zoobojnice.sk  Apr-Sep: Mon-Sun 8:00-19:00; Mar, Oct: Mon-Sun 8:00-17:00; Nov-Feb: Mon-Sun 8:00-15:00 €4    WC Bojnice zoo, located a few metres away from Bojnice Castle, is the oldest and reportedly most popular zoo in Slovakia. Wandering through the grounds, it is possible to see an array of animals from across the world, from the more familiar owls and eagles of Europe, to monkeys and green tree pythons from the rainforest. The zoo is home to more than 400 species of animals, including mammals, birds, amphibians, reptiles and more. While there are numerous outdoor pens, where flocks of pink flamingos and peacocks can be seen walking the grounds, the large cats, including lions and leopards, are safely tucked into glass compounds. The elephant, buffalo and zebra transport visitors to an African safari, but most impressive are the 39 endangered animals from the Red Book of Endangered Species found in the zoo. Kúpele Bojnice (Spa Bojnice)  Bojnice  +421 (0)46 511-6362 www. kupele-bojnice.sk  Mon-Fri 7:00-21:00 Sat-Sun 9:00-19:00  from €1, WC The spa facilities, well established by the 16th century, were once owned by industrialist Jan Baťa. Nationalised in 1948, Spa Bojnice flourished both because of its curative thermal mineral springs and its location in the heart of one of Slovakia’s most beautiful regions. Its determination to reinvent itself as a combination spa/wellness facility with the emphasis on the latter, as evidenced by the recently completed Lysec House accommodations, identify it as a destination for those seeking a healthful holiday as well as a recuperative medical stay. Lysec House is comfortable, attractively furnished, and has a picture- postcard entrance. The modern dining room offers pretty good food and an attractive lobby bar and terrace. Other accommodations include the Baník, a communist-era hotel, The Peace, and six smaller pensions. Spa and wellness services, offered both within the Lysec-Peace complex and at several buildings set apart, include baths, massages, medical procedures, thermal treatments (mud packs), and drinking the waters from the nine springs. The treatment facilities at the Baník are self-contained. There is also a large outdoor mineral spring-fed pool adjacent to the castle. Non-spa related activities include visiting Bojnice’s zoo and castle, area concerts, and relaxing in the spa’s attractively landscaped gardens with their large wooden sculptures and relics of earlier spa days. 30 prievidza map D 3 78 km / 48.5 miles W of Banská Bystrica  48,978  Námestie Slobody 6, Prievidza +421 (0)46 16-186 www.prievidza.sk   Kostol sv. Bartolomeja (Church of St Bartholomew)  Pribinovo námestie 10, Prievidza +421 (0)46 542-2801  entrance hall  Mon-Sat 6:45, 18:30, Sun 6:45, 9:30, 11:00 Kostol Najsvätejšej Trojice (Holy Trinity Church)  A. Hlinku 50, Prievidza +421 (0)46 542-2006  entrance hall  Mon-Fri 6:00, 12:00, 16:30 Sat 6:00, 17:00 Sun 7:30, 9:00, 10:30, 18:00 Located in the centre of the Upper Nitra valley, the town of Prievidza is surrounded by hills and mountain ranges. While the town is often viewed as a starting point for its castle-centred neighbour of Bojnice, Prievidza claims some historical sights of its own. The town square’s centrepiece comprises an unusual column, topped with a rifle-slinging female figure. This monument of resistance from 1946-1951 was the work of architect Štefan Lukačovič and sculptor Rudolf Pribiš, contrasting greatly with the more traditional Trinity Column found to the north. Near the square is the 14th century gothic Church of St Bartholomew with a net vault from around 1400 that is well-preserved. The classical, understated interior is because of the loss of its original furnishings following a fire in 1678. The church’s décor contrasts with that of the HolyTrinity Church administered by the Piarist Order, a few blocks away. With detailed frescoes adorning the ceiling and a lavish altarpiece constructed from numerous finely sculpted angels, the Piarist church boasts typical romanesque and gothic features. The flecks of green and blue stained glass amongst the angels are captivating, illuminating the church’s front with a mystical light.

Would you like people to find their way around your area easily? Would you like to highlight all the attractions in your area in a creative way? Would you like to offer unique promotional materials that people don’t just throw away? Would you like to have a practical map of your area, which is also a work of art? Be unique! Be original! The main benefits of hand-painted maps are easy orientation, picturesque representation and versatile application. Painted maps can also be used for education or as a souvenir. They can highlight monuments or commercial businesses. Thanks to the attractiveness of its visual aspects people are happy explore the details of the map and compare the pictures with real objects. This way we can produce painted maps of ski or rec- reational resorts, land area of a town/village, a micro- region, a self-governing region or even an entire country. SP700321